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Spirit of Experimentation
from Supper - Issue 26
Drawing on legacy and innovation, the new chapter of Midleton Very Rare is the latest expression of Irish Distillers’ audacious approach to redefining the modern Irish whiskey landscape.
Words: Jenna Campbell
Situated amidst rolling fields of barley, Kylebeg Wood or An Coill Beag as it is known in the Irish language, is an area steeped in history. The woodland on the Ballykilcavan Estate near Stradbally, County Laois, has been carefully managed in keeping with the surrounding nature by the Walsh-
Kemmis family for generations, and it was here that
Irish oak was planted in 1820 to replace trees that were felled for shipbuilding during the Napoleonic Wars.
For lovers of Irish whiskey, the spirit’s charm is inextricably linked to its heritage. So it seems fitting that for the fourth chapter of Midleton Very Rare Dair
Ghaelach – translated simply as Irish oak – masters worked closely with the guardians of Kylebeg Wood to select the seven trees that would be used to create the virgin Irish oak hogsheads in which the latest addition to the portfolio would be matured.
“With each bottling traceable to a single tree,
Midleton Very Rare Kylebeg Wood offers a range of whiskeys bottled at cask strengths of 55.4% to 56.1%
ABV,” explains Kevin O’Gorman, Master Distiller at
Irish Distillers. “All possess fragrant woodland spices and a heightened intensity of rich wood tannins that allow the influence of Irish oak to linger on the palate. It is the first single pot still Irish whiskey to be matured in Irish oak from County Laois.”
The launch comes at a time of unprecedented growth within the whiskey industry, as sales continue to rise and consumer appetite for experimentation and innovation grows. According to Drinks analyst IWSR, Irish whiskey sales are predicted to increase by 33% from 2020 to 2024, a significant rise for a category that was in free-fall for several decades as prohibition laws brought the industry to its knees. “The 20th century witnessed a terrible decline in fortunes for Irish whiskey, not relating to the quality of the product,” notes Carol Quinn, Head of Archives at Irish Distillers. “In 1966 the three remaining distilleries in the Republic of Ireland combined to form Irish Distillers, pooling resources in a last-ditch effort to save the category. It’s both wonderful and incredible to compare those times with the situation now and the emergence of so many new entrants over the past decade, hitting a 120-year record with 39 distilleries now up and running.”
An amalgamation of three distilleries – and part of Pernod Ricard’s extensive global distribution network – Irish Distillers and its base in Midleton is home to some of the most widely-recognised Irish
© Cathal Noonan
whiskey brands including Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Midleton Very Rare, the Spot portfolio and Method and Madness. “Jameson has been the driving force behind the revival of the Irish whiskey category for the past 30 years,” reflects Quinn. “Its continued success has created category interest for both Irish Distillers and emerging distilleries in Ireland to further the spirit’s success on the global stage. Today, our Irish whiskeys are exported to more than 130 markets, with over 70 of those experiencing double- or triple-digit percentage sales growth.”
Since 2012, Irish Distillers has invested more than €400 million into the Midleton Distillery, its Dungourney maturation site and Dublin bottling plant – the former featuring the Irish Whiskey Academy – an archive and a microdistillery. More recently, it has announced plans for a €13 million redevelopment to accommodate new, interactive tours and tasting experiences, giving visitors a greater opportunity to explore the past, present and future of Irish Whiskey.
Viewed in the wider context of the category’s recent revival, it would appear that while history will continue to play a key role in the marketing of Irish Distiller’s six brands, the spirit’s rise in popularity over the last decade has inspired both established brands and start-ups to broaden and redefine what constitutes a whiskey made in Ireland. With a greater number of products entering the market – many of which are created using new techniques, ingredients and production methods – Irish Distillers is setting out its stall, focusing more on innovation, whilst also ensuring it honours its past.
While the spirit has a reputation as an accessible and mellow liquid, several attributes of the four styles of whiskey – blended, single grain, single malt and single pot still – make the category well placed for innovation. Many distilleries have sought to challenge the stereotypes around the spirit through flavour amplification using different distillation methods, cask finishing and alternative types of wood used for maturation. “Today, Irish whiskey regulations stipulate that it must be aged in wood for a minimum of three years, but do not limit the wood type to oak. This means the spirit lends itself to endless experimentation,” explains Quinn. “As a result, we have worked with many different wood types over the past few years, releasing whiskeys with unique flavour profiles that highlight the role played by wood in the maturation process.”
While Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaelach is testament to this approach, Irish Distillers has also introduced the Iberian Series, which celebrates the brand’s longstanding connection with the Iberian Peninsula’s celebrated cooperages and winemakers. Redbreast Pedro Ximénez Edition, a limited-edition single pot still, is triple-distilled and initially matured in ex-bourbon and oloroso sherry casks before being re-casked into Pedro Ximénez hogsheads from the southern tip of Spain, for a minimum of 12 months, to impart notes of treacle, raisins and orange zest. Building on decades of collaboration between Irish Distillers and its partners in the region, the most recent addition illustrates the importance of tradition, whilst also signalling a new era for the brand as it explores a more diverse range of casks, flavours and aromas.
Meanwhile, Jameson – which sold a record 8.6 million casks of whiskey last year – recently announced the launch of flavoured bottling to its range in the form of Jameson Orange. Inspired by the classic whiskey cocktail, the beverage combines triple-distilled Jameson Irish Whiskey with natural orange flavouring, offering a low-sugar twist to the growing flavoured spirits category, signalling Irish Distiller’s quest to court a wider variety of drinkers. Yet, when it comes to pushing the boundaries of Irish Whiskey, perhaps the best example of the group’s progressive approach is illustrated by the launch of its youngest brand, Method and Madness.
Launched in February 2017, the brand is crafted in Midleton’s micro-distillery, which serves as a hub for innovation, testing and experimentation. “We are looking to the past and experimenting with recipes and production techniques used by the great distillers that have come before us,” explains Katherine Condon, Distiller at Irish Distillers. “It is a space where we place a large focus on training the up-andcoming distillers of tomorrow. What’s more, it is a fully manual operation that requires our young talent to hone and test their skills every day and to really understand the fundamentals of how to make the finest whiskeys in the world. Method and Madness has been born out of the ethos of the micro-distillery.”
Conducting research into wood influences and cereal mixes, historic mash bills from the archive and the curiosity of its craftspeople,
KEVIN O’GORMAN
KATHERINE CONDON
releases including Method and Madness Rye and Malt – the first aged experimental distillate – demonstrate Irish Distiller’s forward-thinking approach. “Drawing inspiration from the personal notebooks of John Jameson III dating back to 1857, where the inclusion of rye was recorded in various mash bills, the team here at the micro-distillery were driven by a desire to create whiskey that paid heed to tradition while searching for the new and extraordinary,” explains Eva O’Doherty, Distiller at the microdistillery. “The inclusion of rye brings a new dimension to the traditional Irish whiskey character and adds a new spectrum of flavours including notes of white pepper, chilli and clove. “We wanted the distillate to speak for itself and not be overpowered by wood contribution. The team selected a combination of first fill and refill ex-bourbon barrels and left the whiskey to mature for five years for a perfectly subtle cask contribution.”
Rather than a reactive approach to a changing marketplace, Midleton’s expertise and knowledge of the category has prepared them for this exact moment. “Fortunately, over 30 years ago, having studied the market and predicted a rise in demand for Irish whiskey, the Midleton team had the foresight to lay down significant levels of stocks, allowing us to craft the exciting Irish whiskey expressions appearing today,” reflects Quinn. “And this approach continues. We are laying down stock that will be used decades from now, as we anticipate even greater growth in the demand for Irish whiskey in the future. This will allow us to offer consumers the whiskeys they love today, as well as innovative new styles of Irish whiskey in the future.”
To strike a balance between history and innovation in a sector built on tradition is no easy feat, but for Irish Distillers its past will always inform its future. And while tastes and preferences change over time, it’s clear that a solid foundation of excellence and experimentation has placed Irish Distillers in a strong position to adapt.
