Chef’s Table

Raymond Blanc OBE

The eminent French Chef-Patron of the Oxfordshire stalwart Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel, shares his favourite food memories.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I fell in love with cooking as a child, when I was growing up in Besançon, in the FrancheComté region of France. My mum was my great inspiration and her values formed the foundations of my cooking and my career.

What is your most memorable meal?

Alain Ducasse gave me one of the most memorable meals of my life, at Le Louis XV at l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. One of the dishes was a thin tartlet of truffle, served with just a drop of oil and crudités – it was so clean and fresh, and it shows that the greatest chefs appreciate simplicity.

What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?

My partner Natalia, who is also the nutritionist at the Raymond Blanc Cookery School, cooks the best slip sole, which is a small Dover sole. As I enter the house, I smell the deep, rich scents of a beurre noisette; immediately my stress vanishes because I know Natalia is pan-frying that fantastic slip sole. Many types of fish can be cooked this way. I love this dish so much I included the recipe in my latest book, Simply Raymond. Thank you Natalia!

And something to drink with that? A good crisp Chablis, s’il vous plaît.

Restaurant dining or room service?

Restaurant dining – but room service is also a treat.

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking and what’s on the menu?

Sundays are not always a day of rest, but if I’m watching Arsenal play football or France play rugby then I like a snack of saucisse de Morteau – of all the sausages in the world, it’s my favourite – with a few slices of Comté cheese, some crunchy sourdough and a glass of vin jaune.

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

In a professional kitchen the sound of cooking is the music. At home, give me The Rolling Stones or Beethoven.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury - though I am partial to those great British desserts, the crumble and the sticky toffee pudding.

Which chefs have inspired you?

There are so many. I would love to have met Marie-Antoine (Antonin) Carême. Although he was born into poverty during the French Revolution, he went on to cook for Napoleon Bonaparte and Russian tsars. He also came to Britain to cook for the Prince Regent, later to become George IV. But Carême hated the English fog and thought London was sombre, so he returned to France.

How often do you dine out?

As often as possible when I’m not cooking for others who are dining out!

Are you an easygoing or a demanding restaurant customer?

I’m easygoing. I’d much rather compliment than complain.

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

There are many books on many shelves. At the moment, I’m enjoying Essential, a cookbook for home cooks written by my gifted protégé, the chef Ollie Dabbous.

Where do you get the creative inspiration for your dishes?

I’m inspired by many things, including my vegetable garden and orchards at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and my travels.

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?

Healthy indulgence.

Which city is food heaven for you?

Lyon is known as the belly of France and is indeed a gastronomic treat. However, I am fortunate enough to have a home near Nice, which is another food heaven. I like to escape to the South of France, enjoying long lunches at a table overlooking the Mediterranean. I also like to visit the local markets, where I gaze in amazement at the local vegetables and fruits, lovingly presented on the stalls.

Who is your favourite person to cook for?

Like any cook, I’m happiest when cooking for those I love.