TRAVEL

THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH HOTEL, RUSSELL Our Stay at the Duke

By Joan Gestro

BUILT on this outstanding spot is the Duke of Marlborough Hotel, established in 1827 and is the first licensed hotel in New Zealand since the infamous days when Russell was a whaling port. It’s not surprising to hear that this fine hotel won a 2019 People’s Choice Award for Excellence from Hospitality New Zealand. It’s a 19th-century hotel complete with modern facilities and a traditional twist. A lovely spacious restaurant and two large verandas overlooking the Bay, serve an extensive menu and wine list. There’s lots to do and see in this quiet slice of paradise, check it out you’ll be delighted. We felt relaxed as the hotel staff is always there to spoil you. The Duke of Marlborough is just 4 minutes’ walk from Russell Museum and the historic Pompallier House, a few cafes and restaurants to choose from, also a French cafe offering authentic French pastries, and who would want to pass that up!

Paihia is a 40-minute drive and 20-minute boat ride across the bay.

DINNER AT THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH HOTEL.

TWIN COAST

Driving from Tauranga on our way to Whangarei, Cape Reinga and on to the West Coast, was a road trip filled with unusual natural history and cultural folklore. Tauranga to Whangarei is an enjoyable sixand-a-half-hour drive, with the compulsory coffee stops.

Whangarei

Be careful where you book for accommodation, going on Google’s information on the three best motels in Whangarei, the one we chose for the night, left much to be desired. But we didn’t have to look very far for a great place to dine at Quay Restaurant on the famous Whangarei Wharf; great place to wander around restaurants, cafés, gift shops, including an interesting sculpture of a waka. A must stop and explore the amazing new Arts Centre.

HUNDERTWASSER ART CENTRE. Hundertwasser Arts Centre

Situated very close to the Wharf, is a must to visit. 30 years after it was first designed, the Gallery is finally open. It takes you through a zany and vibrant artistic trip well worth your while experiencing. Map-marked-alt 81 Dent Street, Whangarei

Our next stop; Kerikeri, a stone fruit haven, with many road stalls offering a myriad of fruits and vegetables. And did I mention a chocolate factory.

Makana Confections

Boutique Chocolate Factory Map-marked-alt 504 Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri 0293 MOBILE 09 407 6800

Stone Store

We visited the Stone Store built in 1832. Lovely spot to relax by the inlet dotted with many boats, enjoy coffee, lunch, a glass of wine on the lawn.

WINE TASTING AT MARSDEN ESTATE.

The Stone Store built in 1832 by the Kemp family, is New Zealand’s oldest surviving building and is now a New Zealand Historic Places Trust site. The Store, with the neighbouring Mission House now form a small museum.

Marsden Estate Kerikeri

We met owners Cindy McIvor and her husband who in 1992 purchased this site planted in kiwi fruit. They eventually decided to create their own vineyard; It was their eureka moment, as from the planting of their first grapes in 1992 they achieved many awards: Home of award-winning food and wine: • Winner Beef And Lamb

Excellence Awards 2018 & 2019 • Tripadvisor Certificate

Of Excellence 2017 • Nissan Champion Trophy

Wine Of The Show 2013 • Outstanding Northland

Winery Of The Year 2010 • Fonterra Outstanding • Northland Winery 2009 • Winner International

Chardonnay Challenge

The cellar door is open seven days a week, with lunch and dinner cooked by Chef Dale Gartland. After 25 years, Cindy and Rod are now ready to pass Marsden Estate on to new owners. The vineyard also caters for special events. Map-marked-alt 56 Wiroa Rd, Kerikeri 0293 MOBILE 09 407 9398

Sad to say, this lovely region of Northland, Kerikeri has also been affected with the border closures; the inevitable closing down of many businesses.

Our next port of call, in the Bay of Islands, was the resort and winery on Purerua Peninsula.

The Landing Winery

An extraordinary paradise situated along the coast of Purerua Peninsula, in the beautiful Bay of Islands, where the Reverend Samuel Marsden arrived and settled in 1814, and where the first grapes in New Zealand were planted. The unique and fertile terroir of the Bay of Islands has 200 years of viticulture history.

Peter Cooper, a Northlander at heart, after leaving Auckland, where he worked as a corporate lawyer began to develop this piece of paradise high on the hilltop. The Landing has developed into a multi-million-dollar winery that spans 1000 acres of coastal estate with luxury residences, surrounded by breath-taking views:

The Boathouse, Gabriel Residence, Vineyard Villa, Cooper residence

Peter, with the help of winemakers, Rod McIvor, of Marsden Estate, Ben Byrne and Warren Gibson, working with vines grown in the long Northland summers, grown in ancient clay and sandstone soils, produce perfectly crafted wines.

Keith Baker, at the Cellar Door, will guide you through the fine list of wines.

Enjoy the culinary creations of Head Chef Jackie Smith; Grazing platters, fine dinner menu, Cellar

WHANGAREI QUARRY GARDENS. (PHOTO: WHANGAREI DISTRICT COUNCIL).

THE OLD PACKHOUSE MARKETS IN KERIKERI.

Door lunch and many more delights to whet your appetite. The two-and-a-half-hour vineyard tours vary from $250pp to $450pp including travel on their private boat from Wairoa Bay. Or a 55-minute helicopter ride from Auckland. Map-marked-alt 623 Rangihoua Rd, Purerua

Peninsula, Bay of Islands MOBILE 09 300 3685 globe-asia thelandingwine.co.nz

Sovrano Limoncello: The Vest of NZ

Spanning five generations, Andrea and Marzia Loggia are part of a rich history in liqueur making.

“We emigrated to New Zealand indefinitely in 2007 from Italy, with the desire to start a limoncello business, my family, and Marzia’s family has been making wine since 1880.” Says Andrea.

In 2009, after discovering the best lemons in the Bay of Islands and best pure alcohol in the country, they launched Sovrano Limoncello. Liqueurs including Limoncello Cream, Orangello and Orangello Cream, made with New Zealand milk and local oranges grown in Kerikeri. The product is exported to Australia, China and the United States with the ambition to continue to expand their business, and optimism that the economy will bounce back after the current COVID-19 pandemic, Andrea and Marzia recently purchased a local winery, Ake Ake.

Ake Ake Vineyard

The first grapes, were planted at Ake Ake Vineyard in 1998. John Clarke and Aynsley Quenault purchased the property in 2004.

John says “We went to the library and took some books out on how to grow grapes and make wine. Our first two wines from 2005, our first full vintage, both won medals. We set about planting more vines and building a winery we now grow seven varieties and source a few tonnes of grapes from other quality growers. Over the next couple of years, we plan to nearly double our Chambourcin plantings and we planted 400 new Pinotage in 2015”.

In 2012 converting the vineyard to Organic grape growing began. Ake Ake Vineyard is the only fully certified Organic vineyard north of Auckland. Andrea Loggia and Marzia, are proud new owners of Ake Ake, having bought the vineyard six months ago.

The Cellar Door, Vineyard Trail and the Vineyard Restaurant are open every day. Reservations are essential. Map-marked-alt 156 Waimate North Rd,

Kerikeri Northland MOBILE 09 407 8230 globe-asia akeakevineyard.co.nz

PAIHIA AND RUSSELL

The Church Missionary Society established a mission in 1823 and New Zealand’s first printing press in 1835. The restored Treaty House at nearby Waitangi was an attraction, a road was built from Õpua. The Rev. Henry Williams was impressed by the tranquil bay and exclaimed in a mixture of Mãori and English, ‘Pai here!’, meaning ‘Good here’. When the Colony of New Zealand was founded in that year, Hobson was reluctant to choose Kororareka as his capital, due to its bad reputation; As

MUSEUM OF WAITANGI.

the settlement was notorious for drinking, fighting and prostitution, gaining the name “Hell Hole” instead, Hobson purchased land at Okiato, and renamed it Russell in honour of the Secretary of State for the Colonies, Lord John Russell. Duke of Marlborough Hotel.

We were so looking forward to our next stop; Paihia, with dinner at Zane Grey.

Zane Grey Restaurant on the wharf

Wonderful spot, restaurant, bar inside or out on the huge deck with lots of comfortable couches and armchairs. No expense, is spared here. With views over the harbour, we had a wonderful meal on the wharf. A definite must do! A 20-minute ferry ride from Russell, the ferries are very frequent. The restaurant and bar were named after the legendary fisherman - Zane Grey. A bestselling American author, Grey indulged his passion for fishing with many visits to New Zealand. He first visited our Far North shores in 1926 and caught several large fish, including a mako shark. Grey then established a base at Otehei Bay, Urupukapuka Island in the Bay of Islands, which then became a destination for the rich and famous.

OUR VISIT TO HISTORIC WAITANGI

On 6 February 1840 Waitangi was the site for the signing of a treaty between Mãori and William Hobson, representing the British Crown. More than 40 Mãori chiefs signed a treaty with the British Crown, but to this day, remains controversial.

Waitangi

The Waitangi Treaty House and grounds, together with an additional 1,000-acre land block was gifted to the nation in 1932 by the governor-general, Lord Bledisloe, and his wife. His intention was to create a national historic site to mark the country’s foundation document. The first Mãori to sign the Treaty of Waitangi, Ngãpuhi chief Hõne Heke Põkai soon became disenchanted with the consequences of colonisation. He expressed his outrage by repeatedly attacking the flagstaff on the hill above Kororãreka (Russell) 1844. The British reerected it, but it was levelled twice in January 1845 with a fourth attack on 11 March signalled the outbreak of war in the north. We were planning on going to this historic area but two days before our journey began, national news reported that it had been cut down once again. We went up to the site, the flagstaff was temporarily held in place by three steel rods and the site closed to tourists. As we were exploring the area, to our great surprise and delight, we actually heard Kiwis calling. Comfortable in their habitat, not in the least afraid of human intrusion. That was special!

Explore the two new contemporary museums, the carving studio, the Treaty House, traditional Mãori waka taua (war canoes) and enjoy a full programme.

WAVE AND WAKA SCULPTURE, TOWN BASIN. (PHOTO: WHANGAREI DISTRICT COUNCIL).

Paroa Bay Winery

Perched high above the idyllic Bay of Islands, it is the Moana (ocean) and Whenua (land) who inform and inspire the menu at Sage Restaurant. From the end of the fishing line cast into the sea to the orchard doors of their suppliers and onsite gardens. Focus is on locally grown and sourced ingredients which combine seamlessly into a uniquely creative brand of New Zealand cuisine.

With a broad-ranging menu that features some of the freshest offerings from the ocean — all sustainably fished and line-caught — and some of New Zealand’s world-renowned natural produce, the chefs work to strike the perfect balance between creative flair and allowing their ingredients to be savoured as they are.

With all dishes thoughtfully matched from wines directly from their own cellar door, the culinary experience is full-circle. It is a considered and intuitive approach that pervades.

FISH AND CHIPS AT MANGONUI FISH SHOP.

Sage Restaurant

It is the connection between the breath-taking surroundings and the menu that sets Sage apart — one of the most beautiful natural environments on the planet. Paroa Winery have a new wine maker on-site working on the latest harvest to produce a vintage due out by the end of the year. Watch this space!

MANGONUI

We loved Mangonui, it’s a quiet sleepy little town, great browsing through the shops and a great restaurant by the seafront. We had salad loaded with tender prawns, fillet steak with wine to match, served by a most informative and attentive waiter.

The iconic Mangonui fish shop, on the wharf, often thought of as the best fish and chips in the country, we, of course, totally agree! As we can speak from experience, lunching on the best fish; lightly battered, cooked to perfection, very succulent indeed. The fish shop is built out onto the water, relaxing, lovely spot, we’ll be back to the famous Mangonui Fish Shop. Be aware of the hungry, cheeky seagulls.

CAPE REINGA

We were looking forward to taking selfies under the Lighthouse at the farthest extremities of New Zealand, and casting our eyes, once again, on the meeting of the waters of the South Pacific and Tasman Sea. A very spiritual sight to behold, as we had already witnessed this place on a previous trip in good weather, therefore, we can vouch for that. A visitor to this place is in for an amazing treat. As the weather was prohibitive on this trip, we settled for the spiritual experience of just being amongst it.

CAPE REINGA LIGHTHOUSE.

THE WEST COAST

On the highway to the West Coast, heading to Dargaville, we came across a pie cart that sold Paua pies... we immensely enjoyed a first, we could have easily eaten a second, thought of our waistlines and decided... no! We were served by a delightful wahine and also filled our water bottles from a freshwater tap at the back of her van. Great service by the roadside.

Dargaville Museum

The world-renowned Dargaville Museum is a fascinating mustsee attraction. Located in Pou Tu o Te Rangi Harding Park with its magnificent views overlooking the district, town and the Northern Wairoa River.

Dargaville Museum tells the fascinating stories of the Kauri Coast: from early Maori life represented by the 16-metre pre-European waka, the replica gumdiggers camp, shipwreck relics, to the masts of the ill-fated Greenpeace protest ship, the Rainbow Warrior.

Waipoua Forest and Tãne Mahuta

Our walk in Waipoua Forest, on the main highway to the Hokianga, not far into the walk, suddenly brought us face to face with Tãne Mahuta... ‘Lord of the Forest’.

When you catch your first breathtaking view of this magnificent tree, you can almost feel Tãne Mahuta’s strength and ancient presence, and its overwhelming size made us look like dwarfs. A moving and spiritual experience!

Hokianga

We were on the last leg of our Far North, Twin Coasts experience. We caught the car ferry to Opononi, on the Hokianga harbour, where Opo the dolphin lived and died. Opo was a bottlenose dolphin who became famous throughout New Zealand during the summer of 1955/56 for playing with the children... Her death was reported nationwide, and she was buried with full Mãori honours in a special plot next to the Opononi War Memorial Hall. At Opononi Point there once was a generous expanse of soft sand where light planes used to land; In 1920, Fred Ladd’s plane landed on the beach near here. Typical of much of the Hokianga erosion is taking its toll and the quantity of sand is now much reduced. One can still see sand dunes on the distant hill around the harbour.

We can post no compliments about the food the local pub offers.

TANE MAHUTA. The Copthorne Hotel and Resort

The hotel’s lounge bar is a nice place to enjoy a drink. Other amenities include free Wi-Fi in public areas, spa services, and laundry facilities. There’s also the convenience of self-parking.

With a stay at this 4-star Omapere hotel, you’ll be 1.3 km (0.8 mi) from Pakia Hill Lookout, the sand dunes, from where you can slide down to the beach to your heart’s content. and 3.2 km (2 mi) from Opononi Beach. Map-marked-alt State highway 12 Omapere MOBILE 0800 358 888

Our tripping around the Far North, was a bit of a whirlwind. If you are time rich, I would suggest, take a little longer and enjoy the peace away from the madding crowd. Bon voyage! 

ESCORTED TOURS Proudly New Zealand owned and operated

Scenic Southern Splendour

Including Stewart Island Departs 18 April 2022 – Limited Seats 8 days | $4149pp share twin

Fly to Dunedin (3 nights) full of Scottish Heritage, visit the Albatross Colony, Botanic Gardens and Chinese Gardens, lunch at Larnach Castle. Coach through The Southern Scenic Route – The Catlins. Off the beaten track and through rural heartland and rugged coastlines! Overnight Invercargill, fly to magical Stewart Island (2 nights). Explore Oban and enjoy cruise of Paterson Inlet, Ulva Island. Back to Invercargill and join our coach for the short journey to Queenstown (2 nights), sights Arrowtown and farewell cruise including Gourmet BBQ dinner to Walter Peak. Includes return airfares from Auckland/Tauranga/Wellington/ Christchurch (prices available for other centres), all breakfasts & dinners, some lunches, full size touring coach, quality accommodation, all sightseeing mentioned, experienced Tour Manager. FREE home pick up and return from Auckland/ Tauranga/Wellington/Christchurch (conditions apply).

Southern Explorer

Featuring overnight Doubtful Sound cruise Departs 19 Oct 2022, 20 Jan 2023 8 days | $4299pp share twin

Queenstown (2 nights) including sights, TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak dinner cruise, coach to Manapouri and through Wilmot Pass to join our overnight cruise to the unspoiled and unforgettable Doubtful Sound. Twin share cabins with private bathrooms, stunning scenery, onboard nature guide. Coach via Riverton, visit Te Hikoi Museum featuring life size displays and engaging stories of how our Maori and European ancestors adapted to survive on natures edge. Invercargill (2 nights) including visit to Bluff, enjoy a visit with lunch at Bill Richardson Transport World, (optional day trip to Stewart Island). Travel through spectacular Catlins to Dunedin (2 nights) including sights and guided visit to Olveston House. Includes return airfares Auckland/Tauranga/Wellington and Christchurch. Quality accommodation, sightseeing, full size touring coach, overnight cruise Doubtful Sound, all breakfasts, most dinners and some lunches. FREE home pickup and return within a 25km radius Auckland/Tauranga, Wellington or Christchurch Airport. Ask about costs from other centres.

Southern Vista

Featuring Dark Sky experience at Aoraki/Mt Cook Departs 28 Sep 2022, 14 Feb 2023 - Seats Limited 8 days | $4080pp share twin from Auckland/ Wellington or Tauranga 6 days | $3495pp share twin from Christchurch

Fly to Christchurch (2 nights), visit French township of Akaroa, Giants Garden and dinner on the Tramcar Restaurant. Onto the scenic Aoraki/Mt Cook, stay at the Hermitage (2 nights). Voted the world’s largest International Night Sky Reserve we enjoy an experience we will long remember (weather dependent). Take a turn at the telescope to see the stars and planets as we thought never possible. Enjoy a 3D presentation in the Dome which sits alongside the Sir Edmund Hilary Museum. We leave this incredible area and head to Wanaka before on to Queenstown (3 nights). Day trip to Glenorchy and TSS Earnslaw cruise and gourmet BBQ dinner at Walter Peak. Includes return airfares from Auckland/Wellington/Tauranga (Christchurch passengers join on Day 3 and fly back from Queenstown). Quality accommodation, all breakfasts and dinners, some lunches. Quality full size touring coach and experienced driver, Tour Manager from Auckland back to Auckland. All sightseeing including Dark Sky Experience and Dome Presentation. FREE home pick up & return Auckland/Wellington/Tauranga or Christchurch areas.

Hanmer Springs Springtime Gardens

Featuring Hurunui Garden Festival Departs 26 October 2022 7 days | $3999pp share twin from Auckland/Tauranga/ Wellington | $3650pp share twin from Christchurch

Fly to Christchurch (2 nights) special Tramcar Dinner, sights (optional day trip to Culverden Fete), morning tea Iron Sculpture Park. Travel through Weka Pass on a heritage train. Hanmer Springs (3 nights). Visits to homesteads and gardens throughout the area, spectacular landscaping, artworks and owners on hand to share their visions with you. Enjoy entry to the renowned hot springs. Coach to Kaikoura with lunch including crayfish (if available) and onto Blenheim for overnight. Visit the Omaka Aviation Museum with its WW1 and WW2 exhibits. Lunch and glass of wine at a vineyard before flying back to home ports. Including airfares from Auckland/Tauranga/Wellington and Christchurch. Quality accommodation. All breakfasts & dinners. Some lunches and morning teas. Visits to a variety of gardens. Full size quality coach. FREE home pick up and return in the greater Auckland, Tauranga or Christchurch areas (conditions apply).

Wellington Wearable Arts

DON’T MISS OUT on this iconic show – back bigger and better than ever! Departs 29 Sep, 4, 6 and 11 Oct 2022 4 days | $1999pp share twin Already selling fast!

Return airfares from Auckland/Tauranga or Christchurch to Wellington, stay three nights at the central Novotel Hotel (all breakfasts and dinners included). Platinum Plus seats to the amazing Wellington Wearable Arts with two hours of nonstop entertainment. Day trip to scenic Wairarapa including Greytown and Martinborough with lunch and wine tasting under the vines. FREE home pick up and return in the greater Auckland, Tauranga or Christchurch areas. Book now as only limited seats already on some departures.

East Cape Panorama

Departs 15 Oct 2022, 7 Feb, 8 Mar, 2 Apr 2023 6 days | $2499pp from Auckland, 6 days | $2599pp from Tauranga, 7 days | $2799pp from Wellington or Christchurch

Fly to Auckland (overnight). Coach through to Whakatane for overnight. Pacific Coast Highway – an epic stretch of road with picture postcard views of Opotiki, Te Kaha, Whanarua Bay to Hicks Bay Motor Lodge for overnight with magnificent views. Follow the rugged coastline through to Te Araroa, Ruatoria. Lunch at Tokomaru Bay then onto the wharf at Tolaga Bay. Gisborne (2 nights), Wainui Beach and the famous Eastwoodhill Aboretum. Coach to Rotorua for overnight before heading back to Auckland via Hamilton. Return airfares and 1 night accommodation in Auckland, full size touring coach, quality accommodation, all breakfasts, dinners and some lunches, sightseeing, free home pick up and return Auckland, Tauranga, Wellington and Christchurch*. (Conditions apply).

SUPREME TOURS & TRAVEL LTD 54 Wellesley St, Auckland City Freephone: 0800 809 300 • Email: statltd@xtra.co.nz • www.supremetoursandtravel.com