Junya Watanabe re-merchandising project by Monika Szazdi

RE-MERCHANDISING PROJECT Mariana Perez Monika Szazdi Xinchang Zhang

POLIMODA Fashion Brand Management Master Course 2021

CONT ENTS TABLE OF

GENRES

Brand history 6 Cultural context 22 Junya Watanabe 30 Runway shows, iconic products, product identifiers 36

SHIBARU

Business structure analysis 70 Communication strategy analysis 76 Distribution analysis 98 Merchandising analysis 101 Brand identity kit 110

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Mission, Vision, Values, Mantra 114 Archetype of the brand 118 Archetype of the old client 142 3D business model 148 Conflict resolution map 152 Product positioning map 156 Brand personality traits and psychology 158

SWOT analysis 170 The re-merchandising strategy 176 New product positioning map 180 The Monomass consumer 182 Archetype of the new client 192 New 3D Business Model 196 Concept 200

Inspiration and mood board 206 Materials 208 Pricing strategy 209 Lookbook 210 Range plan 220

Appendix 230 Bibliography 250

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“For the women’s collections, I try to look for what has yet to be seen. For the men’s collections, I play within the rules.” - Junya Watanabe

Made in collaboration with one of the original, heritage denim brands, these jeans combined “something real” and “something that has a history” with Watanabe’s “way of originality” and his “new feeling for basics.” This collection not only sparked the beginning of the longterm relationship between Levi’s and Junya Watanabe; it also acted as a conduit for many future collaborations between Junya Watanabe and other brands.

From 1992 to today

In 2001, Watanabe launched his menswear label, Junya Watanabe MAN, integrating unexpected complexity and originality with classic staples. The true essence of his menswear label lies in the tags of the clothes, which read, “Something real. Something that has history, that has traditional shape. Our way of originality. A new feeling for basics.” Our way of originality. A new feeling for basics.”

基本

Composed of reversible and also water-proof garments, models on the catwalk stopped to help one another reverse their clothing under simulated rain. In its review, Vogue described the show as “nothing short of an epiphany: one of those rare fashion moments when creative genius, artistic integrity, and down-to-earth sensibility come together as one.” (Vogue, 2000) After this revolutionary and thought-provoking presentation at Paris Fashion Week, the fashion community embraced Junya Watanabe as a creative genius and admired him throughout the expansion of his label.

1992

Many recognize Junya Watanabe as a shining star amongst the Comme des Garçons Universe, but only few know the backstory behind the brand’s rise to stardom. Junya Watanabe launched his womenswear label under his name in 1992, during Tokyo’s Rakuten Fashion Week. The collection comprised deconstructed, then reconstructed garments in classic silhouettes for women’s ready-to-wear, foreshadowing the theme behind the many womenswear collections to come.

In 1993, after only one year as a lead designer of his label, Watanabe relocated his shows to Paris. Five years later, his notable Spring/ Summer 2000 collection, titled “Function and Practicality,” catapulted him to the large-scale success he has today.

For his Spring/ Summer 2002 menswear collection, Watanabe perfectly captured this purpose, presenting garments with all-over typography prints on the subject of love and morality. Amongst the one-word, graphic button-downs and poetry-filled trousers, one specific item from the collection, a pair of screen-printed Levi’s jeans, marked the turning point for the menswear label. Dubbed the “Levi’s Poem Jeans,” these jeans featured Levi’s classic, Western offerings as a canvas for Watanabe’s one-of-a-kind artistic imagery.

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Today, the brand boasts an extensive list of collaborations, ranging from luxury fashion houses to mainstream sneaker brands to culture and lifestyle brands.

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Before launching eYe, however, Watanabe launched a women’s sub-label, Junya Watanabe Man Pink, in 2003. This womenswear line, centered around creating menswear-inspired items for women, focused on smart tailoring with a twist and created masculine casualwear for women. While the sub-label was discontinued in 2013, it serves as only another example of Watanabe’s skill and trained originality. In 2019, Jeff Goldblum, Idris Elba, and Steve Carell strutted down the runway in the Junya Watanabe FW’19 collection. The show, cast with what the New York Times described as “daddys or granddaddys,” ( New York Times, 2019) proved to be the antithesis of streetwear, youthful rebellion, and the tie-dyed, platinum-bleached, Beiber-endorsed look that was taking over Hollywood. Instead of smoking weed and wearing beanies, Watanabe’s vision smoked cigars and sported fur-trappers, opting for a Cambridge-chic look instead.

The creativity behind Watanabe’s work continued to flow the following year, throughout 2020. Amid Covid-19, as the world found itself fighting for survival, and the fashion industry felt the full effects of the worldwide lockdown and the transition to online, Junya Watanabe persevered.

In fact, as a result of all his collaborations, Junya Watanabe launched eYe, a sub-label of his menswear collection, in 2005. eYe exists exclusively for collaborations with other brands and centers around collections that push the boundaries of what can be worn every day and the balance between simplicity and an original take on tradition. For a complete list of Junya Watanabe’s most memorable collaborations see page 16.

For his SS’21 menswear collection, Watanabe created classic blue-collar essentials updated with premium Japanese constructions as a tribute to the working man. He presented his collection in a book titled “Co-ordination Manual,” where he featured Japanese workers with hands-on careers as his models. Amongst the models, there were sushi chefs, sword craftsmen, bar owners, and bonsai masters.

今日のブランド

TO DAY For his FW’21 womenswear collection, Junya Watanabe returned to Tokyo for the first time in twenty-one years. There, he showed his “Immortal Rock Spirit” collection in collaboration with American heritage denim brand Levi’s and Italian luxury fashion house Versace.

Today, Junya Watanabe’s three labels: Junya Watanabe, Junya Watanabe Man, and eYe, continue to embody the pure essence of fashion while working outside the confines of the rules.

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“Making clothes that are similar to the classics is easy. But imitation could never express the story behind the originals. I wanted makers with an attractive background to make pieces tailored to my taste, so I could then add those pieces to my collection. That was the starting point in my work with other makers. I choose the partners that I feel I need for the collection.” - Junya Watanabe

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Junya Watanabe strives for authenticity, when executing his collections, and records show that he is inclined to go straight to the source for production. While collaborations are extremely common in the fashion industry, Watanabe was the first designer to truly master the craft of the collab. In his co-creations, he shows that two, sometimes three, heads are better than one, integrating his originality with other fashion designers, as well as lifestyle and culture brands. While this is far from an exhaustive list, these are some of the best menswear and womenswear collaborations Junya Watanabe has done to date. Junya Watanabe strives for authenticity, when executing his collections, and records show that he is inclined to go straight to the source for production. While collaborations are extremely common in the fashion industry, Watanabe was the first designer to truly master the craft of the collab. In his co-creations, he shows that two, sometimes three, heads are better than one, integrating his originality with other fashion designers, as well as lifestyle and culture brands. While this is far from an exhaustive list, these are some of the best menswear and womenswear collaborations Junya Watanabe has done to date. Junya Watanabe strives for authenticity, when executing his collections, and records show that he is inclined to go straight to the source for production. While collaborations are extremely common in the fashion industry, Watanabe was the first designer to truly master the craft of the collab. In his co-creations, he shows that two, sometimes three, heads are better than one, integrating his originality with other fashion designers, as well as lifestyle and culture brands. While this is far from an exhaustive list, these are some of the best menswear and womenswear collaborations Junya Watanabe has done to date. Junya Watanabe strives for authenticity, when executing his collections, and records show that he is inclined to go straight to the source for production. While collaborations are extremely common in the fashion industry, Watanabe was the first designer to truly master the craft of the collab. In his co-creations, he shows that two, sometimes three, heads are better than one, integrating his originality with other fashion designers, as well as lifestyle and culture brands. While this is far from an exhaustive list, these are some of the best menswear and womenswear collaborations Junya Watanabe has done to date. Junya Watanabe strives for authenticity, when executing his collections, and records show that he is inclined to go straight to the source for production. While collaborations are extremely common in the fashion industry, Watanabe was the first designer to truly master the craft of the collab. In his co-creations, he shows 19 that two, sometimes three, heads are better than one, inte-

2002

2004

2007

2021

Iconic “Levi’s Poem Jeans” by Levi’s x Junya Watanabe Man

Kentaro Kobuke x Junya Watanabe Man Space Skater Shirt

Porter x Junya Watanabe Man

Moncler Wool Down Jacket by Monclerl x Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe Man x Converse AllStar Sneakers

Vanson Rider Jacket x Junya Watanabe Man

The North Face x Junya Watanabe Man Day Hiker Lumber Jacket

Mystery Ranch x Junya Watanabe Man Backpack Jacket

eYe x New Balance BB480 Sneaker

2007

2008

2009

2021

Tricker’s x Junya Watanabe Man

Barracouta x Junya Watanabe Man

New Balance x Junya Watanabe Man 1500 Sneakers

Vans x Junya Watanabe Man Crack Leather Brown Boots

Gloverall x Junya Watanabe Man Varsity Duffle Coat

Sunil Pawar x Junya Watanabe musicrelevant graphic t-shirts

Junya Watanabe x Versace

2009

2011

2012

2013

2021

Brooks Brothers x Junya Watanabe Man

Japanese Toymaker: TAMIYA x Reebok x Junya Watanabe Sneakers

ASICS x Junya Watanabe Gel Lyte IIIs

BAPE BApe x Junya Watanabe Man Laminated Cotton Raincoat

Hervier x Junya Watanabe

Loewe x Junya Watanabe x Grunge-Inspired Capsule Collection

Stepney Workers Club Sneaker x Junya Watanabe Man

2016

2017

2018

2021

Levi’s x Junya Watanabe 50s Retro Jacket

Heinrich Dinkelacker x Junya Watanabe

The North Face x Junya Watanabe

Pendleton x Junya Watanabe capsule collection flannels

Lacoste x Junya Watanabe

Carhartt x Junya Watanabe

Loyle Carner x Junya Watanabe Man

2018

2019

2021

Canada Goose x Junya Watanabe

The North Face x Junya Watnaabe 90s Retro Hydrena Wind Jacket

New Balance x Junya Watanabe Man 574 Sneaker

Air Ark x Junya Watanabe Man Storm-Ready Parka

Canada Goose x Junya Watanabe

Seil Marschall x Junya Watanabe Man Totes

Reigning Champs x Junya Watanabe Capsule Collection

2020

2021

2022

New Balance x Junya Watanabe Man COMP100 Sneaker

HTS74 x Junya Watanabe Sneaker

magCulture x Junya Watanabe Man

New Balance x Junya Watanabe Man Numeric 379s Sneaker

Motto Guzzi x Pirelli x Junya Watanabe Man

Lanificio Bottoli x Junya Watanabe Co-Branded Capsule Collection

Karrimor x Junya Watanabe Backpack Jacket

Lanificio Bottoli x Junya Watnaabe Co-Branded Capsule Collection

BerBerJin x Junya Watanabe Man

Artists P. Taychamaythakool, T. Sherpa, J. Tsai, R. Wang, x Junya Watnaabe Man

コラボレーション

2002

Yugen, 幽玄 Part of a comprehensive Japanese aesthetics system, means grace and subtlety.

Kaizen, カイゼン A state of mind constantly thinking about continuous improvement. Wabi-sabi, 侘寂 Part of a comprehensive Japanese aesthetic system, means transient and stark beauty.

Satori, 悟り Enlightenment that comes as a reward for intense concentration on the task at hand.

Iki, 壱岐 Sophisticated, possessing erotic charm, being humane, and knowing how to have a good time. Monozukuri, ものづくり Mono translates to thing, zukuri translates to the act of making.

Ma, 間 The superfluous space between the garment and the body.

Kachikan, かちかん Set of values.

Honmono, 本物 “Standard, history, complete work”

JAPANESE VALUES FOUND IN FASHION

The aftermath of WWII was a tumultuous time for Japan; nevertheless, nothing could stop the country from pursuing its path to becoming one of the most powerful economies worldwide. In 1947, the Post-War Pacifist clause in Japan’s National Constitution outlawed war as a means to settle international disputes involving the state. With the war officially over, the young generations focused on the brighter future that lay ahead and embraced the West.

1979

In the 70s, Kenzo Takada reached star-level success in Paris by perfectly capturing the concept of the individual narrative. After attending school in Tokyo, he moved to Paris and presented his first collection at the Vivienne Gallery. The collection called attention to the young designer and allowed him to open his first Jungle Jap boutique. His ensembles appeared in Vogue America, and the world appreciated his playful, authentic flair of prints, patterns, and colors, along with his clothes’ fusion of East and West.

From the late 70s to the end of the 80s, Japanese integration of Western influences introduced new schools of thought to the young generations. In 1979, French philosopher Jean-François Lyotard released essays titled The Postmodern Condition: A Report on Knowledge, which argued that the world had outgrown the metanarrative due to the techniques and technologies developed since WWII. Instead, the essays noted that the individual narrative would replace the grand narrative. The concept of the importance of individuality was well received in Japan, manifesting itself in fashion. In their search for self-expression, the younger Japanese generations were eager to experiment with different and diverse styles. Western fashion presented itself as the prime vessel for obtaining one’s own narrative. This triad compelled the world to acknowledge Tokyo as a fashion capital, in addition to the typical, Paris, Milan, London, and New York. Because of their impact on fashion and influence in Junya Watanabe’s work, it is important to analyze the methods of this triad individually.

In the media, magazines continued to promote Western narratives. Japanese fashion magazines, such as Popeye, called attention to the American lifestyle. As a result, Japanese adolescents began to adopt and mirror a myriad of important trends from America. By the beginning of the 80s, prep style, hip-hop silhouettes, refined casual aesthetics, and sporty ensembles made their way to the Japanese streets, sparking fashion subcultures that started an era known as the DC brand boom, or Designer Character brand boom.

The Search for Individual Identity: 1970s - 1980s In 1982, the Japanese movement Karasu Zoku (Crow Tribe) gained popularity and consisted of wearing all-black designer garments. The name, Karasu Zoku, came from the appearance of a gathering of crows. Thus, the movement’s followers wore all-black outfits in layered styles, combining long lengths and tattered details. The style was androgynous, asymmetrical, and utterly unpredictable in shape. Elements included deep v-necks, long, saggy skirts, wrinkled fabrics, slashed sleeves, scarves, collared capes, and choppy haircuts. Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, and Issey Miyake triggered this style after presenting their designs during the Paris Collection in Spring/ Summer 1982.

By the 50s, Americana styles, such as Rockabilly, Biker, and Pin-Up, prevailed on the streets and single-handedly activated the denim textile boom. Japan became one of the most well-known, high-quality purveyors of the fabric, particularly in cities like Okayama.

During this time, Japanese fashion started to reflect and resemble American influences from G-I soldiers still stationed in Japan. These American soldiers sold military surplus goods, American denim, records, and magazines to the Japanese, which activated an amalgamation of cultures, attitudes, and beliefs that culminated in what people wanted to wear. As Western styles gained popularity, the Japanese incorporated them into their daily wear, reserving kimono for ceremonies and other special occasions. This transition from traditional Japanese clothing to Western clothing set the scene for the Japanese styles visible today.

A Post WWII Attitude: 1940s - 1960s

1947

By the the 60s, Japan started to successfully reassert itself as a cultural hub of resources, ingenuity, and craftsmanship. Young Japanese designers established their labels designing ready-to-wear clothes for Japanese consumers for the first time. Both designers and consumers increasingly valued self-expression and originality, and these values would become visible during the coming decades.

Rei Kawakubo Born in Tokyo, Kawakubo started school soon after WWII. After earning her degree in literature, she started to work with art directors, as a stylist. In 1973, without any formal fashion education, she established her label, Comme des Garçons, translating to ‘like the boys’. Her first collection, titled Destroy, was the absolute antithesis of the ‘jolie madames’ of Channel, Dior, and Yves, Saint Laurant —critics called her style “Hiroshima Chic.” The garments featured worn fabrics, asymmetrical cuts, an absence of decorations, shapes, and colors.

1989

By the end of the 80s, specifically in 1989, Shibukaji (Shibuya Casual) came into style. This casual, elegant style based on TV show actresses Atsuko Asano and Yuko Asano integrated dark blue blazers with Levi’s 501 denim jeans and moccasins. Those that partook in this subculture favored simple shirts, imported denim, and designer bags to add a high-quality touch to their ensembles. They focused on coordination, texture, and shifting their approach to style from asking what to wear to how to wear it. In keeping with the search for individual identity from the 70s, consumers in the 80s continued to create different interpretations of the many styles and subcultures.

In 1993, the Urahara movement transformed Japan’s Western-influenced fashion scene into a street-wear-inspired arena. The brands and designers that emerged during this era included Good Enough by Hiroshi Fujiwara, NOWHERE, and BAPE by Jun Takahashi and Nigo, WTAPS by Tetsu Nishiyama, and more. The aforementioned Japanese tastemakers exposed the country to Western pop culture in a street style-centric way. In 1996, the American sneaker book popularized the Air Jordan 1s, Air Max 95s, Adidas Superstars’, Nike Cortez’s, and New Balance styles. Street style brands were so successful in Japan that Supreme opened three brick-and-mortar flagship stores throughout the country in 1998. During the 90s Japan redefined self-expression in fashion to include street style in addition to lifestyle.

1993

As if counteracting the DC fashions of the 80s, the 90s shifted from a focus on youth and change to a focus on maturity and stability. Alongside Shibukaji (Sibuya Casual), the bodikon (body-conscious) trend emerged during a time where women began to work and play the same as men. Japanese women were showing more skin than ever as a sign of their social ascendance. In menswear, the American Grunge movement tied to Kurt Kobain’s international popularity influenced men’s style.

The Rise of Street Style: 1990s

Yohji Yamamoto After graduating as a lawyer, Yamamoto studied fashion at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. When presenting his collection in Paris for the first time in 1981, he dressed his models in dark, oversized menswear jackets. Contradicting the looks of the luxury fashion houses of the time, Yamamoto’s aesthetics were buried deep in the tradition of workwear, referencing everything from August Sander’s photography to the Japanese industrial uniform.

At the same time of the Japanese Greats, another subculture movement emerged on the streets. From 1983 to 1984, character fashion, along with Vivienne Westwood’s punk style, stepped onto the scene. Lolita fashion, inspired by historical Victorian dolls, started in Japan as a response to the difficult realities of rapid commercialization, destabilization of society, rigid social system, and an increasingly body-focused fashion approach. Young women found comfort in the style’s cuteness and sweetness. These characteristics were eventually opposed by Westwood’s anti-fashion, punk aesthetics that encouraged anarchy and provocation. In Japan Westwood’s ideas consolidated into daring, stand-out silhouettes, sparking the rise of Lolita Goth Culture and punk menswear.

Issey Miyake After studying graphic design, Miyake founded Miyake Design Studio, presenting his first collection in New York, and Paris, thereafter. His innovative style, characterized by deconstruction, dark colors, innovative materials, and, of course, his iconic plissé, created the foundations for the development of a new artistic current in Tokyo, then Antwerp in the 80s.

In 1991, women briefly abandoned the menswear-inspired fashions from Shibuya Casual and welcomed the Paragal (Paradise Girl) subculture. Paradise Girls wore American brands like MCM and LeSportsac, transforming themselves into Japanese-versions of West Coast women. In 1992, the multi-layered appearance evolved into the monotone, French Casual trend. Men and women wore berets, rib stitch knitwear, and tailored trousers. Similar to Shibuya Casual, the basic styling concept of mixing and matching simple items in elegant renditions remained a central theme to this trend.

The economic downturn of the early 2000s affected Japanese fashion by bringing cheaper alternatives to the market. The second vintage boom brought an emphasis on customization and finding the perfect piece through responsible and sustainable shopping. In order to accommodate this, retail shops integrated their new collections with second-hand clothing. Mixing and matching the new with the old became commonplace. Conversely, fast fashion brands like Uniqlo, the Gap, and H&M opened their stores during this time, offering fashion at reasonable prices.

2010

For most of the 2000s, Japanese fashion was a remix of the 90s. The Harajuku style transformed into the LA Salette style in 2004, the Native style turned into Bohemian style in 2008. Nonetheless, Western influences continued to inspire the Japanese Fashion system. For example, Heidi Slimane’s skinny tie from Dior made its way to menswear suit styles in Japan.

By 2010, Western influencers and celebrities traveled to Japan to see for themselves the variety of sub-cultures and their different interpretations. By then, Tokyo was widely recognized as a fashion capital, renowned specifically for its street style that integrated Western and Japanese elements.

Many have tried to compare Japanese fashion to Western fashion, attempting to deduce the strongest contender. However, through this comparison, they disregard the true essence of Japanese fashion —individual expression through the community. While Japanese fashion fulfills the search for individual identity, it does so by collaborating with a community of cultures, references, and lifestyles. Japanese fashion designers collect inspiration from existing sources, deconstruct them, and re-construct them into innovative creations.

The Turn of the Century: 2000 - 2010s

THE FUT URE This undeniably Japanese approach to fashion design, developed since the 40s, appears in all of Junya Watanabe’s work and is crucial contextual information for understanding the brand.

“As a creator, I try to create something exciting, believing that excitement will sell. It’s the same for both men and women.” - Junya Watanabe

For Spring/ Summer 2003, Watanabe Man explored the jacket in its various forms -garage, moto, biker, and tropical prints.

2001

The desire to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary inevitably pushed Watanabe to become fashion’s foremost collaborator. Long before the popularization of the collab, Watanabe worked with the most recognizable names, not only in fashion but also in music, literature, art, and pop culture. Watanabe’s massive portfolio of collaborations includes Levi’s, Tricker’s, Converse, Pointer, The North Face, Brooks Brothers, Lacoste, and many others. Additionally, many of his collaborations are long-term relationships; he has co-created with Levi’s since 2002.

1961

Upon graduation in 1984, Watanabe went to work for Comme des Garçons as a pattern cutter and apprentice pattern maker. At only twenty-three years old, Watanabe’s obvious talent and vision caught the attention of Rei Kawakubo. She took the young pattern maker under her wing. By 1987, Kawakubo promoted her protege to design director of Comme des Garçons’ Tricot line, a position he held until the launch of his womenswear label—still under the Comme des Garçons umbrella—in 1992. When asked about Junya Watanabe in an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Kawakubo stated that “Junya Watanabe is a part of an important company-expansion policy…collaborations have no meaning if 1+1 does not equal much more than 2.” Kawakubo’s aforementioned mathematics refer to her and Watanabe’s distinct, yet philosophically-similar, approach to the design craft. While the two share similar views of the technical level of design, their ideas of beauty and aesthetics differ drastically.

GRADUATION

In the initial stages of launching his womenswear label, between 1992 and 2000, Watanabe experimented with tweed, flannel, and plaid —materials he later translated into his menswear collections. The 90s marked a pivotal moment for Junya Watanabe, who won the Japan Editors Club Award in 1995, and the Grand Prize at the 17th Mainichi Fashion Awards in 1999. Nevertheless, his breakout collection remains his Spring/ Summer 2000 collection, titled “Function and Practicality,” which received rave reviews. As models strutted down the runway, they stopped to undress and invert their garments, disclosing a different print or color. Then, they strode underneath simulated rain, showcasing that their two-in-one outfits were also waterproof.

In 1961, Junya Watanabe was born in Fukushima, Japan. His mother, a seamstress, owned her own made-to-order sewing shop, and remains, to this day, one of the driving forces behind Watanabe’s journey as a creative. Another influence, revealed Watanabe in an interview with T-magazine, was Issey Miyake, who inspired him to create clothes “much different than previous designers.” In fact, like Miyake, Watanabe also attended the world-famous Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, whose star-pupils also include Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.

Before investigating Junya Watanabe’s background, it is important to understand that he prefers to live a private life. He has no social media, and, when asked about the concepts behind his collections, rarely gives more than a two to three-word explanation. While Watanabe wants his audience to focus on the garments, it must be noted that there is a close relationship between the garments and the creator of the garments. Junya Watanabe is the brand, and the brand is Junya Watanabe. For this reason, the biography of the designer must also include an analysis of his approach to the design process.

WOMEN

The collection earned him a warm embrace from the fashion community and the profile of an artistic genius. Ultimately, this collection was what led to the expansion of Watanabe’s label.

DESIRE

Rather than referring to current trends, or other brands, Watanabe’s womenswear and menswear collections revolve around the creation of a particular texture, color, or garment. For his Spring/ Summer 2002 womenswear collection, for instance, every look employed denim. For his Fall/Winter 2007 menswear collection, black leather dominated the runway, though what truly made the garments memorable was Watanabe’s use of zippers. Watanabe deconstructed the leather motorcycle jacket and reconstructed it from the zipper up. At the turn of the decade, Watanabe once again wowed with his Fall/ Winter 2011 collection, a Japanese interpretation of Northeastern America. The models wore Fair Isle knits, varsity jackets, Ivy League-inspired tailoring, and plaid. With #menswear trending on Tumblr and Twitter, and stores entering e-commerce, Americana became a covetable aesthetic outside of Japan. Suddenly, North American men became acquainted with Junya Watanabe. In November 2011, Justin Beiber showed up to the TODAY show wearing the red and white Fair Isle wool sweater. Though Wwatanabe’s FW’11 menswear collection saw major success, he would reach greater heights in the coming years.

2003

Since 1992, Junya Watanabe, the brand, has managed to consistently capture people’s attention. The face behind the brand, however, consciously and consistently remains out of the spotlight. Season after season, Junya Watanabe shows the world his mastery of fine-tuning familiar concepts and presenting them in mind-altering methods. However, who is the mysterious man hiding in the spotlight?

1992

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In 2001 Watanabe was appointed as head designer of Comme des Garçons Homme, and also debuted his menswear line. His menswear label, Junya Watanabe Man, quickly gained traction through its experiments with traditional tailoring, cutting-edge fabrics, and one-of-a-kind pattern making.

Because the design process is central to the work of Junya Watanabe, the place where he received technical training, Bunka Fashion College, proves an important part of the designer’s background. In 1923, Isaburo Namiki founded Bunka as a dressmaking school, as he was worried that the increasing popularity of women’s western-style clothing would replace the traditional kimono.

For all of Watanabe’s achievements, however, his career has sparked controversy. His Spring/ Summer 2016 womenswear collection took his audience to Africa. The show’s models wore beads, bones, tribal masks, headpieces piled high, and other accessories; however, amongst the models, were missing those of African ancestry.

Now a revered veteran, Watanabe has earned himself a spot amongst Fashion’s Greatest. The most ironic part is that, to him, this is not an important achievement. After all, he is a designer who pays no attention to trends or to what others in the industry are doing, preferring to study history and pay homage instead.

Though every detail in the collection was extensively researched, featuring fabric from Vilsco, a Dutch company with influences in West and Central Africa since the 1800s, the media accused the designer of cultural appropriation. Others believed his use of Vlisco textiles and caucasian models to be a commentary of European colonialism. Because Junya Watanabe is a man of few words: he keeps his life and design process discrete among his admirers, the public can never be certain about his true intentions. However, one irrevocable truth: Junya Watanabe is unlike any other designer.

ATTENDING BUNKA FASHION COLLEGE

2016

As a designer, Watanabe transcends today’s concept of fashion because he only offers his unique vision of it to the world. This unique vision is founded on taking the already existing and presenting something new, and never-before-seen. For Watanabe, this is an essential factor. While other designers leave their legacy to family members or protégés, it is difficult to see someone filling Watanabe’s shoes and helming his eponymous line. When he eventually retires, the world will undoubtedly lose fashion’s living encyclopedia, and arguably, its purest designer. Junya Watanabe’s dedication to the design craft has won him the distinction of being one of the fashion industry’s most original and recognizable standouts.

Thus, at its inception, the school trained those that wanted to make clothes for themselves and their families. In the 70s and 80s, the school’s focus shifted to the young generation’s interest in global brands, giving rise to new independent labels. During this time, designers including Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzō Takada, and Junya Watanabe all attended the school. Today, recognized as a world-renowned fashion school, Bunka educates students to support the current industry and the designers that came before.

To attend the school, students must meet various prerequisites. Classes are all in Japanese, and as a result, only 20% of students are international. Students must also have a strong understanding of the body, and the body’s movement. In fact, every year, mannequins are modeled after the bodies of the student class, so they see how fabrics work with different shapes and sizes. Teachers demand perfection, down to the stitch. By the end of their studies, the school hopes to instill the following five values in its students: collaboration, craft, sustainability, contribution to society, and self-expression. This approach to teaching correlates with the Comme des Garçons way of working, which is based on meeting concepts, difficult to translate into reality, with optimism and action. 35

Fall/Winter 1993

Fall/Winter 1992

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This collection, presented in Tokyo, Japan, experimented with woolen knitwear and plaid, and integrated classic silhouettes with playful elements. One coat featured a boa-like, feather lapel while another jacket implemented asymmetric construction. There was even a caramel colored moto-jacket with a shearling interior, and sleeves that could be adjusted from full-sleeve to three quarter sleeves. Models looked bald, with either bleach blond buzz cuts, or hair pulled back into a bun.

BEGIN NING

For the debut of his namesake label, Junya Watanabe presented a sea of neutral staples with waves of asymmetric elements for Rakuten Fashion Week, in Tokyo, Japan. His garments featured fabrics sourced from London antique shops, vintage curtains, and other repurposed textiles. Amongst the pieces, there was a denim patchwork trench coat —a foreshadowing of what would become one of the brand’s identifiers. Models strutted down the catwalk with jet-black pixie cuts and fringe bangs.

Spring/Summer 2020

Fall/Winter 1994

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Presented during Paris Fashion Week, and titled “Function and Practicality,” this collection made Junya Watanabe famous in the fashion industry. The collection featured simple silhouettes and pleated designs, as a tribute to Issey Miyake, one of Watanabe’s idols. However, the focal point of the show was that the slips and skirts were reversible. The models disrobed and inverted each item as they swayed down the runway, revealing different prints and colors. They bravely went beneath an isolated, synthetic rain cloud mid-runway following the wardrobe change—the two-for-one garments were also waterproof. This collection is famous for showing Watanabe’s genius in creating both beautiful and utilitarian designs.

PLAID PRINTS This collection, presented in Tokyo, Japan, introduced the world to Watanabe’s world of brightly colored plaid prints, flannels, and bold styling. This collection set the scene for Watanabe’s work in the 90s, which centered around intense examination and experimentation of plaid, tweed, and flannel, all elements which would later transfer to menswear. Models sported a laissez-faire attitude supported by big afros.

Spring/Summer 2002

Fall/Winter 2002

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Denim might seem like the obvious word to describe this collection, but in fact, the word is de-construction. This collection, presented in Paris, France, destroyed the classic pair of denim jeans and reconstructed them into an assembly of denim plissé dresses, denim jeans with diamond-shaped rips, denim ruffled skirts, and more. The overpowering amount of denim is a testament to Junya Watanabe’s design process, where he selects one main material throughout every collection. The models’ teased hair and Amazonian-inspired makeup were details that added even more drama to the runway.

TECHN O COU TURE

Following SS ‘00, Watanabe’s focus shifted from water to air, with his signature honeycomb ruffs. The theme was techno couture, and the larger-thanlife silhouettes constructed out of a most delicate, rippled fabric could also fold into envelope-sized objects for storage. Watanabe’s manipulation and mastery of sewing shined in this collection. Models worse simple, side and middle-part up-do’s letting the clothes take the center stage.

Fall/Winter 2009

Spring/Summer 2006

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In this collection, ethereal, other-worldly creatures floated down the catwalk in puffed constructions. Watanabe transformed the puffer jacket into romantic Edwardian coats and apparel. The purely black or white garments showcased the craftsmanship behind the collection. Models wore white painted faces, or, in some instances, white masks, and tall, Edwardian-inspired headdresses.

GANG PSYCH O PUNK Inspired by the Japanese rock band: Mad Captures Magots, a swarm of gang-psycho punks trotted down the Paris Fashion Week runway. Asymmetrical cuts, draped fabrics, and a daring color scheme composed the pieces in the collection. Also For the first time, Watanabe re-worked the iconic trench coat through deconstruction. Models accessorized with combat boots and spiky mohawks.

The theme of this collection centered around humans becoming robots, humanoids, and slowly transitioning into more digitized, emotionless, creatures that want to discard their true personalities. The pieces presented a retro feeling of the future, with vibrant geometric prints that made their way across garments in cut-out colored plastic. Models wore Space Age, plastic-fish-bowl headpieces by Tomi Kono, and blood-red, tape-sealed lips by Isamaya Ffrench,

TECH NICAL While Puma supplied the fabrics and the trainers for this collection, this collection reflected Watanabe’s fascination with originality and his own take on silhouettes that supported his technical language. Throughout the show, there was an insistent club beat, and a 90s feel present in the atmosphere and also in the ensembles. Reminiscent of street-wear brands that proliferated in the London and Tokyo club scenes, this collection also integrated something Pierre Cardin-ish, specifically in the Space Age creatures strutting down the catwalk with mirrored headgear and short, tight silhouettes.

Spring/Summer 2015

Spring/Summer 2013 44

Spring/Summer 2019

Fall/Winter 2015

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“A romantic feeling in rock music” inspired the garments in this collection. Employing his extensive cutting experience, Watanabe transformed ‘50s circle skirts, tulle petticoats, and ball gowns into frontally danced skirts that turned out to be attached to regular jeans at the back. Other times, the dresses or lingerie slips were vertically split and sewn onto denim overalls and white t-shirts. Garments were also completely covered with patchwork or showcased Watanabe’s iconic fish-tail bias cut in denim. In true rock spirit, models wore fiery-colored wigs in blue, yellow, or red.

HONEY COMB STYLE

For this collection, Watanabe’s iconic honeycomb silhouette re-appeared in black and white during Paris Fashion Week. Wanting to explore the concept of “dimensionality through clothing,” Watanabe constructed soft, yet rigorous garments. Complex pleating systems and sewing linked the collection; the show culminated as a hexagonal, honeycomb cape floated down the catwalk. Models were simply adorned and occasionally emerged with scribbles that upon closer examination were math equations, on various parts of their bodies.

Spring/Summer 2021

Spring/Summer 2020

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In discussing this collection, Watanabe said, “it is a collection that reproduces the costumes worn by the stars in my memories. My memories are monochrome, and I created a photo session with four fictional stars.” He named them the Spangles. In an array of black and white looks, plus one or two in silver, all looks, from the bubble-hemmed dresses to the A-line skirts, sparkled with sequins. The loose silhouettes and comfortable caftan-like shapes throughout the collection were a nod to the pandemic’s “stay home” order. A shiny interpretation of Watanabe’s iconic trench coat also made an appearance. Models dazzled with big afros and pixie cuts, looking like 70s pop stars.

NO THEME

For this collection, Watanabe was inspired by “no theme.” The real theme, however, was Watanabe’s mastery of pattern-making, cutting and sewing. He showcased his skills on the classic canvas of the trench coat, deconstructing and reconstructing it into asymmetrical dresses with neon-green crinolines, floorlength skirts, and almost every variation of outerwear imaginable. In a sea of trench coat tan, models accessorized with touches of neon shoes, tights and undershirts, keeping their hair pulled back with some strands over their faces.

ROCK SPIRIT For the first time in 21 years, Watanabe presented his pieces during Tokyo’s Rakuten Fashion Week. Inspired by the concept of the “Immortal Rock Spirit,” Watanabe’s collection featured classic band t-shirts with logos, Fair Isle sweaters, tweed coats, and MA-1 jackets, built to wear and tear on the street. He collaborated with Italian luxury fashion house, Versace, and the American heritage denim brand, Levi’s. With a defiant appearance, models wore emo-inspired eye-makeup and flame-inspired headgear.

Fall/Winter 2021 50

Fall/Winter 2003

Spring/Summer 2002

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POEM

As one of the most iconic menswear collections to date, the looks of this collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, were almost entirely constructed from denim. With Levi’s denim as a canvas, Junya Watanabe filled his clothes with vibrant hues, plaids, florals, and random words and poetry on the subject of love and morality, which he asked his team to write from the heart. Models portrayed a simple attitude and wore their hair swished to the side.

Fall/ Winter 2007

Fall/ Winter 2006

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In a collaboration with Vanson Leathers, the leading American manufacturer of motorcycle jackets, Watanabe deconstructed the legendary biker jacket and reconstructed it. The almost all-black looks rendered the biker jacket in different materials, and different silhouettes, such as trousers, with asymmetrical zippers in unconventional places. The models embraced an edgy attitude with long windswept locks, and some models even wore motorcycle helmets.

ARMY

Based on a vigilante-psycho persona, models trotted down the runway in mohawks and army-surplus outerwear, with juxtaposing, ironic, LOVE, appliqués. The ensembles alluded to Travis Bickle of the movie Taxi Driver, whose soundtrack played throughout. There was a camo jacket that transformed into an exquisitely cut-jacket, an elegant coat made of olive drab, and a patchworked pair of trousers -all exemplary instances of upcycling.

Fall/ Winter 2016

Spring/ Summer 2015

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This collection centered around what to wear outside, and explored a modern take on men’s coating and tailoring. Suits fit tight against the body, cut slender and minimally detailed; a skinny mod precision, supported by the models’ circular bowl cuts, defined the show. The coats, however, stole it. Watanabe bonded and coated the fabrics to protect against the elements with techniques that came from the military. There were also solar panels on various garments, in hardy, hard-wearing tweeds and wools, that could both keep people warm and charge their smartphones. The pieces throughout this collection perfectly connect to the utilitarian way people want to live.

WORK WEAR

Watanabe used only two words to describe this collection: “Japanese tradition.” After years of taking inspiration from Western workwear, Watanabe returned to his roots with brilliant garments based on boro, the traditional Japanese patchwork that began centuries ago as peasant clothing. Still celebrating the humble working man, he created a whole suit in indigo with hints of gray and cream tones. Ancient Japanese motifs, like camellias and waves, were integrated into patches of pinstripes, checkered patterns, denim, and t-shirts. Models strode in an interpretation of Tobi shoes, or Japanese worker shoes, jaggedly cut hair, and some even wore an eye patch.

Models: Yusuke Seguchi, master sushi chef Taro Osamu, samurai swordsmith Yutaro Sugitsara, professional fly-fisherman Takaya Maki and Akira Nakamura, automobile mechanics Masashi Hirao, bonsai master

Spring/Summer 2021

Fall/ Winter 2019

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In lieu of Paris Fashion Week, Watanabe presented this collection in a lookbook titled “Co ordination Manual.” The pieces paid homage to the craftsman at the top of his field. Watanabe created hardworking clothes for hardworking men, including chore jackets, workwear denims, Carhartt khakis, carpenter coats, all which are durable and fit for purpose. While the garments proposed utility and practicality, they also offered an air of undeniable romanticism, during the backdrop of the Covid-19 pandemic. With so many people working from home, the appreciation of manual skills, of men who can fix cars, forge swords, and fish rivers became more vividly sentimental.

SWA GGER

The theme for this collection was “silver swagger” and centered around showcasing styles for middle-aged manhood. The pieces were an assemblage of items every man wants in his closet, including army surplus, tweed, denim, biker leather, parkas, 50s knits, corduroy, workwear, and regular shirts. For the first time in Watanabe history, the models had beards, prominent cheekbones, swept-back gray locks, and a seasoned air of confidence. Following the presentation, Watanabe followed up with the following statement, “Watanabe-san finds that today, older men possess stronger personalities and are cooler than the younger generations.”

Spring/Summer 2022

Fall/ Winter 2021

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Taking inspiration from Bhutan and borrowing elements from Buddhism, Watanabe’s loungey menswear collection featured trucker jackets, short-sleeved sweaters, anoraks, sarouel trousers, and shoulder bags filled with vivid imagery. The collection stretched Watanabe’s silhouettes to more exaggerated shapes, such as contrasting Western layering pieces, militaristic jackets, double rider’s jackets, and the aforementioned baggy trousers. The product offer also included an ample selection of collaborative goods that ranged from New Balance sneakers to vintage goods sourced from Berberjin. Models looked like tourists with sunglasses and sun hats as they walked during Paris Fashion Week.

TRAD ITION

Titled, “Tradition Made New,” Watanabe turned comforting knitwear into the theme for the season. Nordic sweaters, Aryan-style cables, and Fair Isle patterns were transposed and fused into every piece of outerwear. Amongst the ornate ensembles, plain coats and jackets also made an appearance, as his collaborations with Levi’s and Carhartt were present throughout the presentation. The show took place in Watanabe’s work building, where regular models walked up and down white hallways.

“Function and Practicality” Reversible and Waterproof Dresses, SS’00 , Honeycomb Ruffs, FW’00, Denim Patchwork, SS’02 and SS’19, Nylon Sleeping Bag Outwear, FW’04, Edwardian Puffer Coats, FW’09, Geometric Plastic Skirts, SS’15 , Reconstructed Trench Coat, SS’06, Reworked Biker Jacket, FW’17

象徴的な製品

Poem Collection, SS’02, Reworked Biker Jacket, FF’07 , Tailored Tracksuit, SS’07, Coffee Sack Tailored Suit Jacket and Shorts, SS’07, Tailored Suit-Jeans, FW’19, Utility Wear, SS’06, Denim Patchwork, FW’15, Solar-paneled coat, FW16, Gore-Tex Yellow Windstopper, FW’20

象徴的な製品

EVERYDAY, RELATABLE STYLING FOR MEN

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CREATING PATCHWORKS AND OTHER MIXEDMEDIUMS OF MATERIALS, FABRICS, ANDTEXTURE

TAILORING MEETS DE-TAILORING INCORPORATING ONE MAIN MATERIAL THROUGHOUT AN ENTIRE COLLECTION

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DRAMATIC, EXTREME, AND OTHER-WORLDLY STYLING

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L A RIC T E MM SY A S NE LI

DE-CONSTRUCTING AND RE-CONSTRUCTING CLASSICSILHOUETTES

ファッション識別子

TS EN EN M E G EL YU L AND A R I, TU AB EC ABI-S T I CH I, W AR IGAM OR

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“Kawakubo gives [her designers] total freedom to do what they want. She sees and checks their collections the day before launching them, but it is rare that she makes any changes. She will discuss strategy, budgets and policy with them at first — and is always available for advice, should they need it.” - Adrian Joffe

1973

CDG UNIVERSE Comme des Garçons (1973)

Comme des Garçons Homme (1978) Wallet Comme des Garçons (1980) Tricot Comme des Garçons (1981)

As the company is privately owned, internal information, such as financial statements, is unavailable to the public. However, it is estimated that the international multi-fashion brand received over €320 million in annual revenue.

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus (1984) Comme des Garçons Homme Deux (1987)

With over 800 employees, the designers who possess their own sub-labels make up the second most important tier of the company. Junya Watabane is amongst these designers, to see the complete list of sub-labels within the company, see page #.

SUB-LABEL

€320

Junya Watanabe is a sub-label within Comme des Garçons Ltd., founded in 1973. Headquartered in Paris, France, the Founder of Comme des Garçons is Rei Kawakubo and the President is her husband, Adrian Joffe.

DOVER

Comme des Garçons sells apparel, accessories and fragrances. The company also owns a department store: Dover Street Market, which carries Comme des Garçons labels, like Junya Watanabe, and other, aesthetically-on-brand designers. As a result of its parent company’s large scale, Juya Watanabe is exposed to international markets, including North America, Central & South America, Europe, Australia & New Zealand, Africa, and Asia-Pacific. The company focuses on selling apparel and accessories for both womenswear and menswear.

Comme des Garçons Shirt (1988) Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons (1992) Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons (1993) Comme des Garçons Parfums (1994) Junya Watanabe MAN Comme des Garçons (2001) PLAY Comme des Garçons (2002) Dover Street Market (2004) Junya Watanabe Man Pink Comme des Garçons (2003-2005) Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Evergreen (2005) eYe Junya Watanabe Man Comme des Garçons (2005) Black Comme des Garçons (2009) Noir by Kei Ninomiya (2012) Comme des Garçons Shirt Boy (2015) CDG (2018) 73

Junya Watanabe has three prominent logos: one for the womenswear readyto-wear line, one for the menswear line, and one for commercial collaborations with mass market brands. The brand’s complete logo: Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons, carries both the founder’s name and its umbrella brand’s evocative name: Comme des Garçon, which means “like the boys.” The inspiration for this evocative name is the 1962 French song, “Tous les garçons et les filles” by Françoise Hardy, which translates to “All the boys and girls.” The font used in the logo is likely Helvetica Neue 75 Bold, and has been used since the brand launched. While the cedilla under the letter “Ç” has been replaced with an asterisk symbol: *.

Junya Watanabe customers will never find any form of traditional advertising, or digital advertising, for that matter, on behalf of the brand. There are no paid features in print publications, broadcast commercials, or social media ads as people scroll through their screens. Instead, in true Junya Watanabe fashion, the label communicates with its audience through a niche-oriented earned and owned media strategy. The list below describes in detail all that the brand does to position itself in an unconventional, creative way that still provides it visibility amongst its target audience.

Exhibitions

Editorial Features

Interviews

Film Features

Brand Look Books

Brand Instagram

Brand Website

Junya Watanabe has participated in several exhibitions throughout the past 30 years; however, the brand has never had its solo exhibition. The exhibits celebrated the most outstanding contemporary fashion designers from different countries, such as China, South Korea and the United States. Junya Watanabe’s pieces were presented alongside iconic designs by Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Kenzo Takada.

Ensemble

Passageways: On Fashion’s Runway

Place: The Met, United States

Date: October 13, 2018, to December 02, 2018

This permanent exhibition at the Met’s Costume Institute features donations from avid Junya Watanabe collectors and even the designer himself. Amongst the pieces presented are garments with the famous Honeycomb ruffs, and parachute dresses from his Spring/ Summer 2003 collection.

Place: Kunsthalle Bern, Switzerland

Future Beauty: Thirty Years of Japanese Fashion

This exhibit explored the constellation that is fashion, where the body, commerce, and modernity converge. It curated over thirty videos of runway shows by designers that have reimagined the catwalk as an exploratory performative tool to produce fashion. Also exhibited were specific ensembles, alongside a series of commissioned replicas in an attempt to rewrite new histories of the runway as a suspension of fashion-time.

Date: June 27, 2013 to September 08, 2013

Kimono Refashioned 1870’s-Now!

Place: Seattle Art Museum, United States

Date: October 13, 2018, to January 06, 2019

The exhibit showcased eighty gowns, from the classic to the outrageous, by celebrated designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Kenzo Takada, Junya Watanabe, Jun Takahashi and others. It included videos of runway shows, artistic photographs, and magazine features. This exhibition allowed its audience a fascinating experience and a rare opportunity to view these designers’ unique creations.

Place: Newark Museum of Art, United States Featuring a diverse range of fashions, this exhibition showcased more than 40 extraordinary garments created by more than 30 Japanese, European and American designers from the world-renowned collections of the Kyoto Costume Institute and The Newark Museum. The exhibition highlighted spectacular couture gowns, innovative menswear, shoes with a sense of humor, and ready-to-wear that tells a story. On display were designs by delight in works from Issey Miyake, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Iris van Herpen, Yohji Yamamoto, Coco Chanel, Christian Louboutin, Hanae Mori, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garçons Man, Tom Ford for Gucci, House of Worth, Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet, Rudi Gernreich, Lacoste L!ve and many more.

Future Beauty: Thirty Years of Japanese Fashion Date: November 1, 2014 to February 15, 2015 Place: QAGOMA, Queensland Art Gallery & Gallery of Modern Art, Australia

EX HIBI TIONS

This exhibition displayed garments that told the story of the Japanese Greats’ extraordinary impact in the fashion world in the 20th century. The work of Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto stood alongside the work of the new generation of radical designers, including Junya Watanabe’s techno-couture designs, as well as pieces by the pioneer of the ‘Ura-Harajuku’ movement, Jun Takahashi.

Shock Wave: Japanese Fashion Design, 1980s - 1990s Date: September 11, 2016 to May 28, 2017 Place: Denver Art Museum, United States This exhibition centered around Japanese designers that started the fashion revolution in Paris. Seventy looks by powerhouse designers like Issey Miyake, Kenzo Takada, Rei Kawakubo, and Junya Watanabe, were displayed throughout the museum.

War-drobe: Fantasy & Exaggeration in Contemporary Japanese Fashion Date: October 18, 2017 - January 28, 2018 Place: Joel and Lila Harnett Museum of Art, University of Richmond Museums, United States The exhibition featured clothes by four leading contemporary Japanese fashion designers, which were swapped during the middle of the exhibition. Through ingenious shapes, varied textures, and innovative construction, these designers, of whom Junya Watanabe was amongst, demonstrated that while still wearable, their garments provoke the imagination, the spirit, and the individuality of the wearer.

Date: November 01, 2019 to August 30, 2020 Place: NGV International, Australia The event presented work by Rei Kawakubo and her protégés, Junya Watanabe and Tao Kurihara. A self-described ‘Comme tragic’ with a long history of collecting, the curator’s emotional connection to Kawakubo’s work permeates this exhibition.

Empty R_ _ M Archive Pop Up Date: August 3, 2020, to August 6, 2020 Place: Hide Store, South Korea This three-day pop-up exhibition featured an expansive range of over 500 highlight coveted garments. Known as a purveyor of archive wares, Empty R _ _ M presented key pieces from Number (N)ine, Raf Simons, Undercover, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Takahiromiyashita, Maison Margiela, and more.

Charlotte Collects: Contemporary Couture and Fabulous Fashion Date: October 14, 2017, to February 04, 2018 Place: Mint Museum of Art, United States Focused on 21st century long gowns, from cocktail attire to wedding dresses, this exhibition highlighted the meticulous craftsmanship, attention to detail, and fine materials characteristic of couture. Also highlighted was the inherent architecture of fashion from the pattern pieces, cut, and construction methods, sometimes layered with innovative decorative flourishes of surface design. Charlotte Collects presented an array of international designs including extraordinary creations by Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Missoni, Issey Miyake, Isaac Mizrahi, Rochas, Rodarte, Jason Wu, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, and Junya Watanabe.

Collecting Comme

ENG x OneLove Date: August 8, 2020 Place: ENG Concept Store, China Chinese retailer, ENG, brought the archive fashion trend to China, through the pop-up store and exhibition concept. The presentation offered fashion fans a chance to explore and experience the brilliance of remarkable historical designs, including those of the genius Junya Watanabe.

As a result of the media’s fascination with Junya Watanabe, the brand has been featured in numerous niche, fashion, and art magazines. Features in print and digital publications and platforms include Another, Dazed, Surface, Pop, i-D, The Gentlewoman, the Perfect, and also in more well-known fashion publications, such as Vogue, Vogue Japan, Elle, and Glamour.

Muse, Fashion Feature, Issue 57

EDITORIAL FEATURES

81 This bi-lingual, English and Italian, digital, and print publication addresses topics about fashion, art, design, architecture, cinema, and music. Its audience is cosmopolitan, cultured readers constantly search for cutting-edge news about fashion and lifestyle.

Mr. High Fashion Magazine, Cover and spread, 2002

SSENSE, Fashion Editorial Feature

Contributors Text: Tony Wang Photography: Rob Kulisek Photography Assistant: Justin Leveritt Styling: Avena Gallagher / Cartel & Co Styling Assistant: Joe Van Overbeek Hair: Shinya Nakagawa Makeup artist: Asami Matsuda Models: Angelica / The Society Management, Daniel / St. Claire Modeling, Elizabeth / St. Claire Modeling Casting: Nicola Kast Production: Jezebel Leblanc-Thouin

Titled, Exploring the Boundaries Between Fashion and Cosplay, this fashion feature appeared on the multi-brand retailer, SSENSE, own content platform called Stories. The editorial found inspiration in cosplay, using standout Junya Watanabe Man pieces to showcase an array of Comic-Con-inspired styling. 83

The fashion editorial featured models wearing the Junya Watanabe Man SS’02 collection. They were photographed against Coca Cola vending machines designed by artist Yayoi Kusama, for Coke Japan’s “ No Reason” campaign.

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10 Magazine, Fashion Feature, Fall/ Winter 2019

10 Magazine, Fashion Feature, 2015

Contributors Photographer: Richard Burbridge Stylist: Sophia Neophitou Make-Up Artist: Marla Belt Hair Stylist: Tomi Kono Model: Yumi Lambert

10 Magazine brings unprecedented access to the world of fashion, art, and beauty. This fashion feature showcased Junya Watanbe’s SS’15 womenswear collection in an eightpage spread. 87

10 Magazine is built on the belief that fashion should be shot beautifully and supplemented with exclusive interviews, groundbreaking editorial features, and powerful, opinionated journalism. This editorial feature explores Watanabe’s SS’19 menswear collection.

Notre, Editorial Feature, 2018

Grind Magazine, Fashion Feature, 2012 88

In its features, Grind magazine excels at creating a ‘streetwear’ feel with designer collections. This fashion spread featured vintage-inspired pieces in rustic color palettes from Junya Watanabe’s menswear FW’12 collection. 89

Chicago-based retailer Notre featured Junya Watanabe menswear against the backdrop of a textile factory and, later, outdoors. The spread showcased a selection of seasonal wares, featuring Watanabe’s collaborative endeavors with The North Face, Levi’s, and Karrimor.

“There’s nothing in particular that made me want to start fashion and create clothes. But if I were to mention something, it would be the fact that my mother used to have a little made- to-order shop.”

On rare occasions, Junya Watanabe accepts interviews. However, throughout his 30+ year-long career, the number of these interviews can be counted on two hands.

“Much of Watanabe’s allure is rooted in his mystery and cryptic storytelling. At the end of each of his shows he rarely steps out to take a bow, nor are we ever given an explanation for the collection.”

“In every collection we look internationally for a new approach, partly because of our desire to do something different. When we decide upon a theme, we begin our research, and try to go deep into it. Our creation is based on becoming maniacs.” - Junya Watanabe

“When I ask about his process of creation, Watanabe leaves the room, returning a few moments later with a paper prototype of folded, ferocious spikes, and a series of photographs of similar spikes and bumps, like stalactites or microscopic images of bacteria. “It all begins inside my head,” he says. “I start to look for strings of ideas that interest me. From then, I put my ideas to words. I work alongside my pattern makers, trying to put my words into creating and actually seeing it come to life.” - Junya Watanabe

“I do take a different approach toward men’s and women’s collections. For the women’s collections, I try to look for what has yet to be seen. For the men’s collections, I play within the rules.” - Junya Watanabe

“His process of creation may seem abstract and non-traditional, but the fact remains that, despite his unconventional approach and his reluctance to publicity, his singular imagination turned his namesake label into a global fashion influence.”

Dazed, 2014 Purple Magazine, 2014 The New York Times, 2016 Now Fashion, 2017 High Snobiety, 2018 Entrance, 2019

Junya Watanabe appeared in a 2014 documentary about La SAPE, short for: La Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes. This documentary follows the story of one of the most unique subcultures in the world: LA SAPE.

2014

Its members, the Sapeurs, come from the Democratic Republic of Congo and have elevated fashion to the status of their religion. Despite extreme economic hardships, the Sapeurs will only wear for the likes of Roberto Cavalli, Yohji Yamamoto, Versace, Comme des Garçons, and Junya Watanabe.

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ELEGANT

FILM

Set to the soundtrack of Congo’s extraordinary music, the film follows the cult’s founder and spiritual father, Papa Wemba, known as ‘Le Roi De La Sape’ (The King of la Sape) and his followers. Throughout the film, viewers experience the Sapeur lifestyle and Papa Wemba’s fashion ideology. Bragging and boasting, loud and proud, constantly advertising themselves and each other, they are stars on a stage they mentally construct in the absence of real ones.

“I hope this letter finds you well. For the Spring Summer season I am presenting the Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons Man collection in a book entitled Manual. Please find it enclosed here. Thank you for all your support – I do hope you enjoy it. Best regards, Junya Watanabe.”

Co-Ordination Manual, 2020

To present his iconic Spring/ Summer 2015 collection, Watanabe created a photography book with photographer Leslie Kee. The models wore the Space Age fishbowl headpieces, along with futuristic, PVC-covered dresses. Their lips were painted blood-red, then covered with sheer tape, and only one eye was dabbled with vivid eye-shadow. Through a collection that presented an almost retro vision of the future, Watanabe explored the true meaning of the “modern” woman.

Super Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons, 2015

To present his Spring/ Summer 2020 collection Watanabe created a lookbook to present to his fashion week guests stuck at home during Covid-19. Photographed in various Japanese cities by photographer Keizo Kitajima, it features a series of 13 gutsy characters from samurai sword-makers and auto mechanics to DJs and barmen, all captured at or near work. In this almost all-picture book, Watanabe offered one thought: 95

In addition to Instagram, the company owns a company website, www.junyawatanabe.com; however, it is at times active and at times inactive. As soon as Junya Watanabe presents a collection, the company activates its website with the latest collection and news related to the brand. After some weeks, the website returns to inactive status. The label also shares a permanent sub-page under the Comme des Garçons website at www.comme-des-garcons. com/junyawatanabe.

Followers: 104,134 Average Likes: 1,097 Average Comments: 6.69 Engagement Rate: 1.06%

Even though the brand does not prioritize building its social media presence, it has over 102.000 followers, which shows the level of its consumer’s loyalty and interest. The main content categories are photos and videos of the latest fashion shows, press articles about the current collection, and archive images of the most iconic collections. The captions stay the same for all posts within the same category and indicate credits to make-up artists, photographers, and stylists when applicable.

The brand posts only on their feed. The fact that it does not utilize any other features on Instagram, such as IGTV, stories, or reels, shows that ranking on other users’ “search page,” and visibility through the optimization of the algorithm is not important.

The label has been slow to adopt today’s most popular social media platforms. In fact, their sole online presence is on Instagram, and their oldest post dates back to the 18th of March, 2021. Aside from its limited Instagram activity, Junya Watanabe does not possess any other primary platforms, such as TikTok, Facebook, Youtube, Snapchat, Weibo, or WeChat. Furthermore, the brand has never had any paid social media campaigns.

The brand’s approach to distribution is decentralized, as most of the distribution takes place through the company’s wholesale partners. Without an e-commerce platform, or any physical stores, Junya Watanabe’s sales depend primarily on well-known e-commerce websites, and retailers. While Watanabe possesses a permanent section at all Dover Street Market locations, his garments are only available for purchase at the physical locations in Tokyo, London, and New York.

DbC

Online: The brand does not have an ecommerce store, where they sell their stores directly to customers.

Offline: Junya Watnaabe has a ‘flagship’ store within the Comme des Garcons’ flagship store in Tokyo. eYe Junya Watanabe has only one flagship store in Hong Kong, China.

Offline: Junya Watanabe is available in over 120 physical retail stores, across North America, Central & South America, Europe, Asia, Australia, New Zealand, and The Middle East. Stores that carry the brand include small and large department stores, specialty stores, CdG flagships, Dover Street Market stores, and other multi-brand retailers.

DISTR IBUT ION

wHOLESALE Dot Comme Doverstreet Farfetch JET I.T. HAVEN H. Lorenzo Luisa Via Roma MyTheresa Matches Fashion Notre Net-A-Porter Selfridges Ssense SVD Yoox Vestiaire Collective END. ZOZOTOWN 99

Online: With over 15 of the most famous e-commerce stores carrying Junya Watanabe, the brand is available for purchase online, and ships to over 45 countries worldwide. See below, the list of some of the brand’s wholesalers:

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EYE FLAGSHIP

DOVER STREET MARKET During a chaotic time for the retail industry, Dover Street Market has managed to maintain such high levels of success because of its strong focus on the retail experience. All stores feature a spectacular interior design and exquisite, foretelling visual merchandising. The UX/UI experience on the website is weak, as their aim is to attract more customers to the physical store. They are targeting visual customers, who appreciate seeing and also feeling the clothes first-hand, against a scenic atmosphere.

Rei Kawakubo established Dover Street Market, a multi-brand department store, in 2004. The first store successfully opened its doors in London’s Institute of Contemporary. Subsequently Dover Street Market locations appeared in Ginza (2013), Singapore (2018), Beijing (2019), and Los Angeles (2019). Lastly, Dover Street Market Parfums Market, a store for fragrance, opened in Paris.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING Location: 22 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong, China Hours: Monday - Sunday 11 AM - 8 AM

In true brand spirit, eYe’s only flagship store features foggy glass windows that blur the products to those standing outside. Upon entering the store, stands and shelves are organized by (oneof-each) product categories. The furniture and fixtures cover the store, transforming the path of the customer into a maze that leads to a Watanabe world of wonder. The interiors are modern, with white walls and bright, white lighting.

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DOVER STREET MARKET NEW YORK

At the Ginza Location, customers can find the current SS’21 womenswear collection on the 6th floor. There they will immerse themselves in a contemporary, all-white space with two fully-dressed mannequins in appeal, shoes, and accessories. One-of-each, equally spaced, products hang off the three racks. A white island also exists so sales associates and clients can easily place and inspect items. On the 1st floor, the current SS’21 menswear collection rests on industrial pipes against a wall with black and white graffiti wallpaper. A conglomerate of seven to eight racks exists in the center so the customer must walk around in a circle. There are no mannequins, shoes, or accessories displayed, only apparel.

In New York, the current SS’21 womenswear collection can be found on the 7th floor, while the current SS’21 menswear collection can be found on the 2nd floor. In the women’s section, the industrial-inspired interiors continue, and customers are greeted with five racks of hanging garments. Only “one of each” products are displayed and divided by product category. At the men’s section, one massive mirror stands surrounded by seven racks of apparel, divided per product category. There are also two shelves with two shoes on the floor, and one industrial-inspired metal island.

DOVER STREET GINZA

102 103

At the London location, the ground floor features Junya Watanabe’s current SS’21 womenswear collection, while the basement features Junya Watanabe’s current menswear SS’21 collection. On the ground floor, industrial design meets warm materials and shades, such as the sage green fixtures. The products are presented in a linear layout and are divided by product category, where only one of each product exists on a rack. In the center, there are 2 mannequins dressed in apparel, shoes, and accessories from the current collection. In the basement, the industrial designed interiors match the iron racks and exposed ceiling, as if at a warehouse. Only one of each product is visible, and products are divided into product categories: trousers, t-shirts, button-ups, outerwear denim, and shoes. All products are hanging, except one shelf with folded shirts and accessories.

DOVER STREET MARKET LONDON

FW’20

MERCHANDISING ANALYSIS

WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION PRICE ATTRIBUTE

Throughout the collection, the main materials were rigid, luggage leather, nylon, and polyurethane. Black and red, the collection’s primary Apparel colors, were on par with this Shoes season’s provocative attitude. 2 pairs of 2cm Dresses Also, amongst the ensemPrice Range €947 - €4.590 bles, the biggest portion heels of Price Range €1.455 Avg. Price €1.173,18 the product offer provided Avg. Price €1.455 Tops directional, carryover pieces. Price Range €605 -ranged €1.150 from While prices Avg. Price €1.331,00 a €147 pair of tights, to a T-Shirts €4.590 cut polyurethane Price Range €410 to €1230 dress, the average price Avg. Price €943,33 throughout the collection was Trousers €1.295,61. Price Range €745 Avg. Price €745 Skirts Price Range €657- €2.460 Avg. Price €1.444 Outwear Price Range €1.308 €3.400 Avg. Price €1.915, 81

TREND ATTRIBUTE

Essential: 20% Core: 33% Directional: 47%

Core: 100%

END USE ATTRIBUTE

Multiple Use/ Carry Over: 94% Single Use: 6%

Multiple Use/ Carry over: 100%

*Because the brand does not have a consolidated platform that presents the entire collection, this merchandising analysis looks at data from Junya Watanabe’s wholesale partners, including Bergdorf Goodman, Farfetch, Luisa Via Roma, Matches Fashion, MyTheresa, Net-A-Porter, Notre Net-A-Porter. 104

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The brand expects their consumers to spend large sums on their purchases but offers them iconic, directional pieces that will last them a lifetime, or at least, more than a season. See below for a more detailed description of this season’s product offer:

The following merchandising analysis follows a season-specific and comprehensive study of the FW’20 and SS’21 womenswear and menswear collection product offer and presentation.

With Blondie frontwoman and punk pinup, Debbie Harry, as his muse, this collection explored bustier dresses cut out of luggage leather, then layered over luscious crinolines, double-breasted coats, and single-breasted jackets with harnesses.

Accessories

Harnesses Price Range €389 - €875 Avg. Price €515 Jewelry Price Range €252 - €513 Avg. Price €382 Tights Price Range €147 Avg. Price €147

Directional: 100%

Multiple Use/ Carry over: 74% Single Use: 26%

TREND ATTRIBUTE

Essential: 36% Core: 44% Directional: 20%

END USE ATTRIBUTE

Multiple Use/ Carry Over: 94% Single Use: 6%

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Multiple Use/ Carry Over: 94% Single Use: 6% END USE ATTRIBUTE

Multiple Use/ Carry over: 87% Seasonal: 13%

Essential: 8% Core: 47% Directional: 45% TREND ATTRIBUTE

a more detailed description of this season’s Core: 34% product Directional: offer: 66%

Tops eYe Sneakers Price Range €235 - €570 Price Range €185 In terms€365 of the product offer, approximately Avg. Price €456 T-Shirts Avg. collection Price €279,37 90% of the was composed of core Price Range €175 - €290 carryovers or directional carryovers. While Avg. Price €232 many of Watanabe’s garments were essenTrousers tial closet staples, the added layer of the Price Range €437 - €675 Avg. Price €556 collaboration with Italian tire brands, brake Denim manufacturers, and sports cars makers gave Price Range € 674 the pieces an unexpected twist. The average Avg. Price € 674 price of a product from this collection was Outwear Price Range €1.250 -€1.235,95, ranging from a €175 graphic t-shirt €2.307 to a €2.307 color-blocked coat. See below for Avg. Price €1.748,89

Accessories Shoes

PRICE ATTRIBUTE

While the silhouettes were #WFH friendly, the sequins-encrusted fabrics signaled the designer’s hope for happier times to come. The main materials throughout the collection were soft and stretchy cotton. The color story was inspired by black and white cinema, with a touch of silver. In stores, the presentation of the collection matched the Core: brand’s 100% aesthetic more than the seasonal storyline. The sales floor was clean and clutter-free, letting the colors, silhouettes, textures, Multiple Use/ and textiles shine. Carry over: 100%

Apparel

Price Range €285 - €1.060 Avg. Price €635,67 Shorts Price Range €624 Avg. Price €624 Denim Price Range €310 - €600 Avg. Price €468 Skirts Price Range €745 Avg. Price €745 Outwear Price Range €1.495 €2.990 Avg. Price €2.257,50

MENSWEAR COLLECTION

Nostalgia was the constant feeling evoked throughout this collection. With the chaos of Covid-19, Junya Watanabe attempted to tell a pre-pandemic story, in a pandemic-friendApparel Shoes Accessories ly way. He looked inward, to his memories 2 Ankle boots 3 bags PRICE Dresses of movie stars for inspiration. His stars, Price Range €955 Price Range €824 ATTRIBUTE Price Range €475 - €2.740 named “the wore white, Avg. Price €955 black, Avg. Price €824 Avg. Spangles,” Price €1304,23 Tops and sparkly silver looks in a black and white, Price Range €160 - €2.116 soundtrackless motion picture, in place of Avg. Price €822 T-Shirts the canceled Paris Fashion Week catwalk. In Price Range €175 - €1.060 the movie,Avg. the model Price 578,33 actresses swung and Trousers swayed their fluid, kaftan-like clothes.

In terms of the product offer, the majority of the pieces were essential and core carry-overs. The designer understood the customer’s desire to wear comfortable clothes during the lockdown and, thus, created a collection with wearable pieces that transcend seasons. Prices remained high; in fact, the average price point of this collection was 1.95% higher than his FW’20 collection. The average price throughout the collection was €1,321.48, and prices ranged from a €160 jersey tank top to a €2.990 sequined double-breasted trench coat. See below for a more detailed description of this season’s product offer:

SS’21

WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION

For this collection, Watanabe traveled to Italy and presented tailored pieces in collaboration with Italian racing brands such as Brembo, Pirelli, and Abarth. The ensembles, focused on outwear, were effortlessly classic- models strutted the catwalk wearing camel coats, button-down shirts with scarves tucked inside, and racing car jackets. The main materials were wool and cotton, and the color story revolved around the contrasting tones of the race racetrack, featuring red, blue, yellow, green, black, and white.

FW’20

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MENSWEAR COLLECTION Shoes

Accessories

FW’20 108

For the womenswear customer, the value proposition behind the purchase centers around investing in intellectual, one-of-a-kind pieces that transcend seasons. The word investing is key because the average price of a product from Watanabe’s womenswear collection is €1.392 and the investment, or motivation behind the purchasing decision, is in conveying a sense of intelligence and cultural superiority through clothing. The value proposition of Junya Watanabe Man products centers around purchasing closet staples with a slight twist, whether in the form of innovative materials or an unexpected collaboration. When comparing womenswear and menswear merchandising, not only are the value propositions of the collections completely different, but also the pricing. The average price of a garment in womenswear is €1.392, 43% higher than menswear garments, at an average price per garment of €972. See below for a more detailed description of menswear and womenswear collections:

t-shirt to a €1.682 printed jacket. The fact that the majority collection included core TREND of the Essential: 9% Essential: 16% Directional: 100% ATTRIBUTE Core: 56% were the lowest-priced Core: 68% carryovers and t-shirts Directional: 33% Directional: 16% products shows that the SS ‘20 menswear colEND USE Multiple Use/ Carry Multiple Use/ Multiple Use/ Carry lection appealed to consumers through staples ATTRIBUTE Over: 94% Carry over: 100% with one or two added features, keeping itemsover: 100% Single Use: 6% interesting but not unrecognizable. See below for a more detailed description of this season’s product offer:

PRICE ATTRIBUTE

eYe Sneakers 1 Tote bag Tops Price Range €185 Price Range €215 Price Range €423 - €812 €365 Avg. Price €215 Avg. Price €556.16 Avg. Price €279,37 T-Shirts Price Range €195 - €375 Avg. Price €285,10 Trousers Price Range €475 - €575 Avg. Price €529,90 Shorts Price Range offer, €748 - €812 In terms of the product the majority of Price €780,10 the garments andAvg. shoes were core carryovers, Denim Price Range €core 562 while accessories were directional piecAvg. Price € 562 es. The average price of a product throughout Outwear Price€709,15, Range €812 - €1.682 the collection was starting at a €195 Avg. Price €1.211,90

Apparel

In a necessary shift from the Paris catwalk, this collection’s storyline celebrated technical professionals with sturdy, work-friendly, silhouettes, such as chore jackets, workwear denim, khakis, carpenter coats, and spacious bermudas. The collection’s primary materials, cotton, and linen allowed comfort and breathability, adapting to many consumers’ continued #WFH lifestyle. The collection’s color story, composed of neutrals, pops of red and orange, and indigo, recalled the colors of signs and symbols at an industrial site. Also, historically, indigo has been “the color of the blue-collar worker,” in Japan, as it has been readily available to the masses for centuries. In stores, the presentation of this collection matched the season’s theme. The sales floor integrated, metal, industrial pipes, and exposed ceilings as well as warehouse-inspired decorative elements.

WOMENSWEAR PRICE ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION TREND ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION

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PRICE ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION

Entry level €147 - €500

20%

Essential

28%

Multiple use/ carry-over

69%

Mid level €510 €1.190

34%

Core

38%

Single use/ occasion

High level €1.230 €4.590

46%

Directional

34%

Seasonal use/ temporary

26%

MENSWEAR

COMPREHENSIVE ANALYSIS The womenswear product offer generally focuses primarily on core and direction carryover pieces at high-level prices. Conversely, menswear collections focus on core, carryover, and seasonal products at mid-level price points. PRICE ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION TREND ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION PRICE ATTRIBUTE % OF COLLECTION

Entry level €175 - €300 36% Essential 11% Multiple use/ carry-over 48%

Core €365 - €1.120 54% Core 55% Single use/ occasion 0%

High price €1.130 - €2.307 24% Directional 34% Seasonal use/ temporary 52%

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BRAND IDENTITY KIT

M O O R

ムールーラミ

R O

IR M

KAGAMI NO MA

VISION

make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and re-construction make reality into a dream through de-construction and

MAKE REALITY INTO A DREAM THROUGH DE-CONSTRUCTION AND RE-CONSTRUCTION

MISSION

reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a sense of normality reveal hemi-recognizable kintsukuroi that remove the wearer from a

REVEAL HEMI-RECOGNIZABLE KINTSUKUROI THAT REMOVES THE WEARER FROM A SENSE OF NORMALITY

VALUES

値

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CENTRAL DISCLOSURE EXPRESSIVE NON-EXISTENCE INSTRUMENTAL MATERIAL PATCHWORK

DISC LOS URE

In what manifests as a sudden stream of consciousness on the catwalk, Junya Watanabe discloses his designs from deconstruction to construction, from reality into fantasy. His presentations and designs disclose all the necessary information, without revealing too much.

NON-EXISTENCE

Junya Watanabe’s collections feed off his willingness to look internationally for a new approach, and desire to design something different. When he and his team decide upon a pre-existing theme, they transform this theme into non-existent designs, which they then bring into existence. 114

MATERIAL PATCHWORK

ブランドの価値

115

Every garment within a Junya Watanabe collection is a master class in fabrication and fit, mixing a variety of elements, while always remaining cohesive and highly specific.

A TION A N

OUS F 117

OF CON

A S

BRAND MANTRA

マン

C K A HO L B

Junya Watanabe’s archetype is a Noh Opera. In order to understand how Watanabe’s brand beautifully embodies all the elements of Noh, one must first delve fully into the world of the most ancient, traditional form of musical opera, still practiced and performed today. 118

THE NOH

型

原のドンラブ

The Noh attracted government patronage during the Muromachi Period, from 1333-1573. Then, during the Tokugawa Period, from 16031867, the Tokugawa shogunate made it its official ceremonial art and issued regulations about preserving the Noh’s tradition. Noh is structured around song and dance and flows according to the concept of Jo-haky, which means that all actions should begin slowly, speed up and end swiftly.

119

Traditional Noh play has five acts that fall under the jo-ha-ky, concept. Movement is slow, language is poetic, the tone is monotonous, and costumes are rich and heavy. Plays are usually drawn from Japanese legends, literature, and contemporary events. Themes often relate to dreams, supernatural worlds, ghosts, and spirits.

Derived from the word “skill” or “talent,” Noh Theater is performed through song, dance, and elaborate costumes. It was invented in the 14th century by Kan’ami, and his son, Zeami. Noh Theater tells dreamlike tales of emotion and drama that center around a lead character, called the Shite.

The Waki, a supporting character that acts as the counterpart of the Shite, appears in almost every Noh. The Waki can play a plethora of roles, ranging from a traveling priest or the former foe of the Shite.

120

The instrumental music of noh is composed by the Hayashi, the third actor within Noh. The fue (flute), kotsuzumi (small hand drum played at the shoulder), tsuzumi (big hand drum played at the hip), and taiko (stick drum) make up the instruments of the Hayashi or orchestra. While the Hayashi are trained to play all instruments, they specialize in only one, which is a legacy handed down from generation to generation. The 3 characters can perform in any of the 5 genres of Noh: Waki Noh, Shura Mono Noh, Katsura Mono Noh, and Kiri Noh.

In Noh, there are three main roles all played by male actors: the Shite, the Waki, the Hayashi. The Shite portrays the play’s main character and is driven by a single feeling throughout the performance. The vast range of characters that the Shite can portray includes gods, warrior ghosts, female ghosts, madwomen, living men or women, or otherworldly beings like tengu (long-nosed goblins).

THE ACTORS 121

Waki Noh: The Shite plays a human being that becomes a god. Katsura Mono Noh: the Shite plays a woman obsessed with love.

Zatsu Noh: The Shite plays a crazed character.

Kiri Noh: The Shite plays a human being that becomes a demon.

Shura Mono Noh: The Shite plays a dead warrior that pleads to a priest to pray for his soul.

THE GENRES 122

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Today, Noh costumes are works of art, and quite separate from the reality of the character. For example, historically, women who gather sea salt would not be adorned with such finery, but by using such stylized and symbolic costumes, Noh can better portray a character’s feelings. While Noh costumes are a far reality from the figures they portray, they can reveal much about the character to the audience. If one knows about all the costume components, one can determine a character’s gender, age, social standing, occupation, and personality.

124

While there are rules when it comes to costumes, the Noh allows the Shite great room for personal expression, as it is they who ultimately decide the costume they would like to wear.

At inception, Noh costumes were modest, as actors wore their everyday clothes to perform. However, as Noh became the favored form of art by the aristocracy and military-ruling classes, actors received more lavishly crafted kimonos.

COSTUMES 125

Red: Reserved for young women, a symbol for passion or prosperity

Indigo/ Dark Blue: Reserved for the masses, indigo is a readily available colorant in Japan

Purple: Reserved for the ruling class, and aristocracy, a symbol of nobility

Light Blue: Reserved for demons or crazed persons, a symbol for the mystical world

White: Symbol for purity

Gold/ Yellow: Reserved for gods, a symbol of divinity

COLORS 126

127

Noh mask artisans carve the masks from blocks of Japanese cypress. The mask’s three-dimensional properties allow skilled actors to induce a variety of expressions as they alter their head orientation.

128

MASKS 129

Across Noh companies, masks are consistent in the appearance of their exterior; however, in their interior, they can be personalized by Noh actors. Thus, while on the outside all masks are made to look the same, on the inside they are highly individualized.

One key element of Noh is the masks that the Shite wears; there are 200 masks that they can select. Masks reveal the type of character to the audience. The most frequent characters include demons, spirits, women and men of various ages, and gods.

Chūjō

A man with a noble womanish look, represents a sophisticated, educated, graceful, and sorrowful man.

Kagekiyo

Fukai

Zō

Rōjo

An old woman with a thin aged face, straight nose, and sparkle in the eyes showing a glimpse of the beauty of youth.

A person with a soft smile symbolizing the world at peace, long life, good harvest, and prosperity for future generations.

Yase-onna

Kumasaka

Yakan

Myōga-akujō

A middle-aged woman in her forties with wrinkles from experiences like love, marriage, pregnancy, children, and divorce.

A deranged person, once a great soldier who was defeated, exiled, lost his sight, and became a beggar.

A woman who could not achieve Nirvana and became a ghost. She appears weak, in misery from her grudge and jealousy.

Namanari

Represents a scorned woman filled with anger after being deserted by her husband. The mask has small horns and a widely cloven mouth.

Okina

Old man mask

A goddess, fairy, or celestial nymph character with classical features, including a broad forehead and tense cheeks.

A famous thief and leader of a gang of robbers, has bright eyes that represent strong caution.

Sankō

A woman with a frightening face, with her mouth widely and menacingly opened. She feels so angry that she transforms into a serpent.

A common man with deep lines on his cheeks and across his forehead. He is a powerful fisherman struggling with a rough sea.

Otoko

Onna

Man mask

Woman mask

A charming demon with the body of a fox and the voice of a wolf. The mask has two short horns and wild hair.

Hakushiko-jō

An old man with a grim and fierce appearance. He has superhuman power.

Shishiguchi Kishin

Represents Buddha’s appearance, and has a power of exorcism and expelling evil spirits. The mask has the face of a roaring lion.

Onryō

Spirit or ghost mask

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Demon mask

Jō

Elder mask

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Noh operas are performed on a square stage, butai, with a roof supported by pillars at its four corners. All sides of the stage are open, providing a shared experience between actors and audience. There are no curtains specifically so as not to obstruct the connection between actor and audience, as this relationship is an important component of Noh.

The stage’s backdrop consists of a wall with a painted image of a pine tree, and a bridge that runs off the stage, symbolizing the connection, and, the equal importance of actors’ behavior backstage (offstage) and onstage. The theater itself is symbolic and treated with reverence by both the performers and viewers.

132

THE STAGE 133

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能

JUNYA WATANABE AS THE NOH

B-side characteristics involve the brand’s risk of marginalizing itself. Because the brand, and its designer, are so closely connected to their internal selves, they risk losing perception of external reality. For this reason, the archetype of Junya Watanabe is a Noh Opera.

B-SIDE

At its core, Junya Watanabe, the brand, aims to develop its creativity and express itself in a one-of-a-kind approach. The brand’s A-side characteristics include vision, and disruptive, specifically de-constructive, then constructive creativity.

VALUES

First, in his collections, Junya Watanabe uses traditional values and techniques to transport his audience from reality into a fantastic, wonderful world of colors, textures, prints, patterns, and silhouettes. In its “operas,” the Noh also transports its audience to an alternate reality, where other-worldly beings coexist with humans, by creating an almost spiritual connection between the actors and audience.

GENIUS

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Second, the brand’s collections as well as the physical garments are manifestations of pure genius that not everyone can comprehend. At times, the construction of the clothes goes against the silhouette of the human body, garments feature extra fabric in uncommon places, and, when asked to explain his concept Watanabe offers one, sometimes two words regarding his creations. Like Junya Watanabe, Noh is not for everyone. To understand the opera, people must study its history, as there are many hidden, historic elements within the Noh. On a less conceptual level, Junya Watanabe’s collections not only never look the same, but are radically different each and every season. Watanabe can present romantic silhouettes in pastel shades one season, and debut black and red, rigid leather garments the following season.

While his audience can expect the unexpected in every collection, they can also count on Watanabe’s consistent commitment to traditional, and highly technical cutting techniques, pattern-making methods, and innovative material selections. Watanabe’s expert understanding of the technical aspects of design allows him to present different collections that are still connected through the brand’s implicit values.

A-SIDE

In Noh, the audience can also expect different storylines each season; however, they can count on every opera as an expression of an ancient tradition passed from generation to generation at its core.

FANTASY There are many similarities between Junya Watanabe and the Noh, namely, that upon analysis, they are both art forms of self-expression aiming to transport their onlookers to an other-worldly state of fantasy and wonder. By not appealing to everyone, and incorporating both visual and conceptual barriers to entry, Junya Watanabe, the Noh, strives to keep its sense of authenticity and remains true to the innovative mind and traditional foundations of its creator.

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Through the opera, the Noh transports its audience into a spiritual-state where humans and other-worldly beings co-exist.

Operas require an already existing understanding of Noh’s history, and a decoding of Japanese cultural entendres, including the language.

Garments require an already existing understanding of Junya Watanabe’s many influences. There are many barriers to entry involved in understanding the concept behind a collection, even the clothes themselves are a barrier.

Through his collections, Junya Watanabe aims to transport the audience from reality to another world of fantasy and wonder.

COLLECTIONS ARE BASED ON THE DESIGNER’S TECHNICAL AND TRADITIONAL FOUNDATIONS

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OPERAS ARE PERFORMED AS THEY WERE TRADITIONALLY PERFORMED IN THE 14TH CENTURY

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WOMENSWEAR

THE CLIENT 142

クライアント

Junya Watanabe 32 - 55 y/o

High disposable income International A-list celebrity, art or fashion oriented career

Junya Watanabe Man

This customer is interested in art and culture and wants to express herself and her knowledge through her clothes. She’s willing to pay premium prices, believing her purchases to be innovative, thoughtful-provoking articles of self-expression.

17 - 42 y/o High disposable income Celebrity, Youtube or Tik-Tok influencer, art or fashion oriented career This customer is interested in streetwear and hype culture (especially if he purchases eYe products). He prefers pieces that offer comfort and functionality, in addition to aesthetics, quality, and the occasional logo.

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MENSWEAR

While Watanabe’s womenswear and menswear clients share core psychographic and transactional characteristics, they differ in demographics. Womenswear customers are older, and more established in their careers and finances compared to men. While both must have high levels of disposable income in order to purchase products, women require higher percentages of disposable income, as the average price of a womenswear product is more expensive than a menswear product. Also, men have eYe available to them, which is a less-expensive, mass-market oriented sub-label of Junya Watanabe Man. In terms of occupation, customers attracted to the women’s label include A-list celebrities like Rihanna, and Michelle Obama, and also women in art-connected careers, like curators and art gallery owners. Customers attracted to the men’s label include celebrities like Justin Beiber to artists like Greyson Perry. While these customers are also interested in art and culture, some, especially the clients that purchase eYe products, are also interested in hype culture and collaborations.

The word ‘self-validate’ is key as Watanabe consumers are not searching for external validation. The lack of brand logos, or obvious labeling on garments, especially in womenswear, prevents anyone but the wearer from knowing anything about the designer or the price tag. In addition to communicating their personality, other motivators for purchase are the materials and pattern-making of the garments. Both womenswear and menswear clients are interested in a more intellectual type of shopping, paying attention to technical aspects of the garments, such as special cutting techniques and innovative materials. Thus, the current clients of Junya Watanabe womenswear and menswear are consumers who want to express themselves intellectually and communicate their association with extensive knowledge of culture, art, and fashion.

While Junya Watanabe designs his womenswear and menswear for different target customers, his customers share some similarities, namely their motivations for purchasing the brand. The reason why Junya Watanabe’s customers buy his brand centers around self-expression, and signaling intelligence and interest in culture, art, and fashion. They wear the brand’s clothes to communicate and self-validate their association to culture and art; this is consistently true in the womenswear collections.

With an understanding of the similarities and slight differences between Junya Watanabe’s womenswear and menswear consumers, the archetype of the current consumer, related to the Noh, becomes clear:

THE HAYASHI

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They are influencers and early adopters. They do not follow trends; they set them, following first their desire to express themselves.

They set the tone and mood for the duration of the Noh. The audience and other actors follow the ambiance they set at the start of the opera.

Their identity is tied to culture, art, and fashion-related fields.

They are trained in all instruments of Noh; however, they play only one throughout their career. Their identity is tied to this one instrument.

THESE CONSUMERS SUPPORT AN ART FORM FIRST AND THEMSELVES SECOND. THOUGH MANY APPEAR ON STAGE OR TV, THEY DO SO TO SUPPORT THEIR RECORD LABEL, ART GALLERY, YOUTUBE CHANNEL, ETC. 146

THEY SUPPORT THE NOH. THOUGH THEY ARE VISIBLE ON STAGE, THE OPERA IS NOT ABOUT THEM. IT IS ABOUT AN ENTIRE SYSTEM OF DIFFERENT ELEMENTS. 147

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3D BUSINESS MODEL

Junya Watanabe employs this technique when deconstructing already-existing silhouettes and reconstructing them better than they were before. Watanabe’s re-stitchings are his gold or silver paste.

Kintsukuroi is the ancient Japanese art of repairing shattered pottery. When a vase shatters, the master craftsmen of the kintsukuroi collect the fragments and reconstruct them, filling the thin cracks with gold or silver paste. The conditions of the cracks are not hidden, rather exalted, as they show both fragility and the strength to resist.

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This 3D business model illustrates Junya Watanabe’s approach to business. Currently, the brand offers their current client, the Hayashi, the ability to express themselves through clothes that allow them to transcend their reality. In order to provide this offer, they employ the Japanese concept of kintsukuroi throughout their products.

金継ぎ 150

KINT SUK UROI

Garments often feature an amalgamation of a disorganized array of juxtaposed elements, such as asymmetrical hemlines, material patchworks, bright colors, and bold prints.

CONFLICT RESOLUTION MAP

Junya Watanabe’s womenswear and menswear lie in different places in the positioning map.

DIRTY

BAD

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Conversely, Watanabe’s menswear label is ‘dirty’ and ‘good.’

While it also plays with an array of elements in one single garment, clothes are more approachable for consumers, focusing on comfort and practicality. For example, the back-pack-infused coat aims to primarily provide its wearer with efficient travel by combining multiple elements. The label is not approachable for all customers, and, at times, even challenging to wear.

GOOD

DIRTY

154

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PRODUCT POSITIONING MAP

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This intuitive approach to design provides freedom to the designer and concedes clients with unique, one-of-a-kind products. Lastly, the brand’s absence of social media in an age where everyone wants to follow, like and comment, makes him provocative and bold. Because the brand communicates through its clothes, it demands a physical connection with a world accustomed to DM-ing, offering followers less than 100 posts on Instagram. As a brand and as a person, Junya Watanabe’s atypical characteristics are central to the creative process, allowing it to create and its consumers to receive thought-provoking products.

As if it were a character in the story of its clients, the brand’s personality traits disclose how its clients perceive the brand, and if their perceptions are aligned with how the brand perceives its identity. Starting with a list of over one hundred possible characteristics, Junya Watanabe lives out its message through the following attributes: provocative, unique, fascinating, intuitive, inspired, innovative, impressive, free, liberated, bold, and creative.

Junya Watanabe proves one of the few players in the fashion industry who refuses to cater entirely to the market, allowing itself to look inward before each and every new collection.

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By anthropomorphizing the brand, Junya Watanabe’s fantastic deconstructions and reconstructions, based on kintsukuroi, make him fascinating, innovative, and impressive. The neverthe-same-concept structure of his collections confirms the brand’s creativity, and ability to take inspiration from even the most sequestered ideas. Also, the brand’s denial to follow trends frees it from today’s fashion system and enhances the brand’s unique intuition.

PSYCHOLOGY WORKBOOK FEELINGS

UNDERSTOOD

CONFIDENT

DEPENDABLE

SELFLESS

SUCCESSFUL

ADMIRED

AFFECTIONATE

INTERESTING

ACCEPTING

KIND

ATTRACTIVE

PASSIONATE

ADMIRED

TOUCHED

SYMPATHY

LOVED

COMFORTED

INSPIRED

DETERMINED

RESILIENT

JOYOUS

CONNECTED

IMPULSIVE

ARTISTIC

GLEEFUL

THANKFUL

IMPORTANT

FESTIVE

ECSTATIC

HOPEFUL

CHEERFUL

GENEROUS

CONFIDENT

ENTHUSIASTIC

BOLD

PLAYFUL

COURAGEOUS

ENERGETIC

LIBERATED

OPTIMISTIC

PROVOCATIVE

PRESENT

FREE

STRONG

HUMBLE

SPECIAL

FASCINATING

INTRIGUING

CERTAIN

REBELLIOUS

UNIQUE

INTUITIVE

TENACIOUS

PEACEFUL

ATEASE

COMFORTABLE

ENCOURAGED

CLEVER

CULTURED

CONTENT

CERTAIN

RELAXED

CURIOUS

BLESSED

BRAVE

CHALLENGED

CAPABLE

INTELLIGENT

SEXY

HELPFUL

160

161

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STIMULATION

Independent thought and action - choosing, creating, exploring

Excitement, novelty, and challenge in life

PSYCHOLOGY WORKBOOK VALUES

SELF-DIRECTION

BRAND PERSONALITY

ACCESSIBLE

ACTIVE

ADAPTABLE

ADMIRABLE

CAPABLE

ATHLETIC

BALANCED

BRILLIANT

CALM

COLORFUL

CHARMING

CHEERFUL

CLEAR

CLEVER

CULTURED

CONSIDERATE

COOPERATIVE

COURAGEOUS

CREATIVE

DISCREET

DEDICATED

DEEP

DIGNIFIED

DISCIPLINED

ENERGETIC

EFFICIENT

ELEGANT

ELOQUENT

EMPATHETIC

FOCUSED

FAITHFUL

FARSIGHTED

FIRM

FLEXIBLE

GENUINE

FRIENDLY

FUN

GENEROUS

GENTLE

HUMBLE

HELPFUL

HEROIC

HONEST

HONORABLE

INSIGHTFUL

IMPRESSIVE

INDEPENDENT

INDIVIDUALISTIC

INNOVATIVE

LOYAL

KNOWLEDGEABLE

A LEADER

LIBERAL

LOGICAL

OPTIMISTIC

MODEST

NEAT

OBJECTIVE

OPEN

PERCEPTIVE

PASSIONATE

PATIENT

PATRIOTIC

PEACEFUL

PRECISE

PLAYFUL

POLISHED

POPULAR

PRACTICAL

RELAXED

164

165

BRAND PERSONALITY TRAITS

SINCERITY

RUGGEDNESS

EXCITEMENT

SOPHISTICATION

COMPETENCE

WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

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S E

装

衣くぞうょし

M U T

S O

SHO ZO KU

sWOT ANALYSIS

After analyzing the brand’s cultural context, history, identity, current consumers, and other characteristics, internal strengths and weaknesses, and external opportunities and threats become apparent. By looking at them collectively, it is then possible to develop a strategy for the brand to remain successful.

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Merchandising: J.W. maintains its authenticity by refusing to follow trends (Merchandising Analysis, Designer Analysis)

Merchandising: J.W. collections are always one-of-a-kind/ never before seen. The brand constantly debuts directional products. (Collection Analysis, Brand Analysis) Communication: J.W. communications strategy centers around low cost paid and owned media coverage. (Communications Analysis)

Supply Chain + Distribution: J.W. is not available on DSM’s online e-commerce website (Distribution Analysis, Merchandising Analysis)

Merchandising: Products are not approachable to the modern day woman in terms of accessibility and wearability (Collection Analysis, Consumer Analysis, Distribution Analysis, Merchandising Analysis)

INTERNAL

INTERNAL 172

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Communication: J.W. has a weak online presence; its website is inactive (Communication Analysis, Social Media Analysis)

Merchandising: J.W. produces highly, technical apparel, shoes, bags and accessories (Merchandising Analysis, Brand Analysis)

Supply Chain + Distribution: J.W. is not available in all 5 DSM locations; only in 3/5 locations. (Supply Chain Analysis, Distribution Analysis)

Finance + Supply Chain: J.W. can count on CdGs financial and supply chain resources (Business Structure Analysis)

Supply Chain + Distribution: J.W. does not own any of its own DOS stores exclusively (Supply Chain Analysis, Distribution Analysis)

Sales: J.W. possesses a loyal, and growing clientele (Business Structure Analysis + Social Media Analysis + Communication Analysis)

Sales + Supply Chain: J.W. has a strong connection with mass market brands and their supply chains, such as Nike, New Balance, Levi’s, and more (Merchandising Analysis + Supply Chain Analysis)

WEAKNESSES

STRENGTHS

Sales: J.W. womenswear has an aging target audience, comprised of celebrities or women with significant disposable income (Consumer Analysis)

Merchandising: J.W. collections integrate innovative materials that are aesthetic and functional (Merchandising Analysis, Brand Analysis)

Merchandising: J.W. womenswear offers few entrylevel price point products, starting at €147, comprising 20% of collections (Merchandising Analysis)

Competitors: J.W. has an opportunity to differentiate its entry-level price point category from its competitors that currently focus on jewelry and beauty. (Competitor Analysis)

OPPORTUNITIES EXTERNAL

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Competitors: Competitors possess a strong social media presence on primary platforms and secondary platforms (Competitor Analysis)

THREATS Competitors: Competitors offer product categories at entry-level price points to penetrate a younger target audience (Fashion Merchandising lecture 5.5.21)

Retail Industry: Consumer spending on clothing is 35% higher than it was 2 years ago (Bank of America Report)

Retail Industry: This year, consumer preferences have shifted from casual, comfortable clothes to ‘going-out-type apparel’ this year. (Morning Brew Interview with Richard Hayne, Urban Outfitters CEO)

Sustainability: Consumers want their purchases to last, therefore, trends, and directional products are continuous. (Morace’s Paradigms)

Economy: Consumer spending is currently 20% higher compared to February 2020. Consumption is still expected to experience a 9% increase (Oxford Economic Report)

Consumers: J.W. can capture an underserved monomass audience (Dazed Monomass Consumer, Consumer Analysis)

Sustainability: Contemporary consumers prefer to thrift basic/ essential pieces, and purchase new, directional pieces (Fashion Merchandising lecture 20.5.21, BOF Sustainability Report)

Fashion Industry: Currently brands exist in an oversaturated market where they must compete for consumers’ attention and loyalty through quality content. (Morace’s Paradigms)

EXTERNAL

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In order to capture these consumers, the collection should offer both aesthetic and approachable products as well as an entry-level priced accessories line. Also, while keeping with the brand’s niche-oriented communications strategy, this new collection and accessories category should be available at all Dover Street Market locations, and also online. To see the formal strategy developed from this research and reasoning, please see the next chapter:

Sa,Sc,Se,Sg+Oc+Wa,We,Wf+Ta+Sh+WbWc+Wd

STRATEGY FOR SUCCESS

Based on this SWOT Analysis, Junya Watanabe should use its cult-consumer following, strong supply chain and financial infrastructure, creative design capabilities, and consumers’ positive perception towards the economy to create a collection that targets younger customers.

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While staying true to its brand identity, Junya Watanabe’s Fall/ Winter 2022 womenswear collection aims to expand the brand’s target customer to the Monomass consumer by appealing to their desire to integrate the authentic and artificial.

GOALS

4 PILLARS This strategy, centered around connecting with a new target customer, is founded on the following four merchandising pillars:

To increase the percentage of entry-level priced products in the collection from 20% to 44%.

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To introduce a penetration-priced accessories line centered around headwear. To integrate solve et coagula material selections, to connect with the consumer’s desire to combine authenticity and artificiality.

To level the womenswear merchandising offer with menswear, by incorporating menswear’s ‘classic and functional’ design approach to womenswear.

OBJE CTIVES 179

PRODUCT POSITIONING MAP

I Based on the proposed re-merchandising strategy, the womenswear positioning will shift from products with high prestige prices to accessible premium prices, and from exclusive luxury to more approachable luxury. The collection will feature more entry-level priced products that incorporate aesthetics and functionality. Instead of taking the wearers to another world, the ensembles will transport them to a heightened reality. 181

“Paradox is extinct. Culture is everywhere, advertising is inside us, everything is for sale. But despite it all being right in front of you, information is scarcer than ever. This is the era of Monomass.” - Dazed Media Monomass Report

CONTEMPORARY CULTURAL CONTEXT

They believe that successful brands must have a genuine purpose and abide by it.

Their concerns about race, equality, and environmental issues influence their purchases.

A name coined by Dazed Media Group, the Monomass consumer represents a niche within contemporary youth culture. This group of consumers, within Gen Z, emerged as a result of a constantly changing world, Covid-19, and the fight for black lives in an era of extreme smartphone and social media use. The following points are central characteristics of the Monomass consumer:

MONOMASS CONSUMER

They define themselves by their many interests, their style and their music over anything else.

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They prefer real heroes over influencers with over 100k+ followers.

They are influenced through online publications, and are relying on them to refine their content.

“In the blink of an eye, everything became nothing. Hyper-individualism and mainstream trends coexist in peace. A thousand people can make up a person, and none of it is a lie.” - Dazed Media Monomass Report

In their search to integrate their life with virtual reality, the Monomass consumer is interested in technologically-oriented concepts that can help them achieve this objective. Amongst the most popular is the Monomass consumer’s rising interest in video games. Many individuals worldwide identify as gamers, including Monommass consumers. As gaming technology advances and becomes an extension of the real world, it is becoming a lucrative market for many brands. Video games will give rise to the multiversal self, where“people will no longer occupy just one identity, but many distinct selves within the various game worlds they occupy.” (BoF Interview with Herman Narula)

Monomass consumers live in an era where hyper-individualism and mass trends co-exist together at the same time within the same person. While these consumers can believe in many, at times, contradictory concepts all at once, there are certain unwavering truths that they hold dear.

THE AUTHENTIC & ARTIFICIAL CAN COEXIST

Artificial intelligence

AR and VR

Algorithms

Avatars

Multiple platforms

Non-western narrative

Unconventional beauty

Real heroes

Thus, in an attempt to stray from the previous generation’s ‘traditional’ approach to living life, Monomass consumers value a world where authenticity and artificiality can coexist, through an acceptance of multi-layered identities, an unorthodox path to success, and integration of augmented and virtual reality.

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MONOMASS INTEREST IN VIRTUAL TECHNOLOGIES Streaming

This multi-layered approach to identity gives rise to the side-hustle and the redefinition of the path to success. The Monomass consumer possesses multiple careers that play to their multitude of skills. Albeit, these careers are not nine to five. Instead, due in part to the Covid-19 pandemic, these careers can be conducted by a computer. The digital world plays a continuously larger role in their lifestyle. Thus, through their acceptance of multi-layered identity and their different, digitally-oriented definition of success, Monomass re-interpret the previous generation’s code to living life.

This integration of authenticity and artificiality trickled into many aspects of culture. AR filters that drastically transform the user’s appearance, for example, are welcomed and integrated into Monomass reality because these filters are outwardly artificial. Monomass consumers openly accept that the person with brown hair and almond-shaped eyes standing in front of them is the same person as the one online with fuchsia hair, glittering, yellow eyes, and big lips. The Monomass approach to AR is not about pretending to be something one is not, but, rather, about adding another layer to one’s already multi-layered identity. Another more extreme example concerns singer and songwriter Grimes. Grimes split her ‘real’ persona from her URL persona, WarNymph. The fact that one Grimes organizes concerts, and the other Grimes spends the day with her family shows the world a new future in which realness and authenticity have a space to co-exist alongside the openly fake.

Video games*

They believe in breaking social constructs of the past through their fluid identities. By rejecting the all-ornothing approach to identity, people can be hardcore punks and practice yoga and meditation; they can work in finance and fashion and not feel completely consumed. Their acceptance of a multi-layered approach to identity allows the Monomass to belong to many macro and micro cultures at the same time.

In this re-interpretation of life, Monomass consumers discover ways where the digitized world and the real world can coexist. After the chaos of the Covid-19 pandemic and all the innocent lives avenged during Black Lives Matter protests, these consumers saw the dark characteristics of humanity. After experiencing one tumultuous event after another, the Monomass decided to turn their attention to the positive. While influencers and mass media discussed death counts, the Monomass turned to everyday individuals, or real-heroes, who offered them a sparse sense of comic relief. For example, the internet experienced a 58% increase in positive news accounts, and TikTokers dancing and performing comedy skits sky-rocketed to fame. People choose to surround themselves with uplifting, digital content in an attempt to ameliorate the grim realities of lockdown. The need for uplifting, human-oriented content overpowered the filtered content that came before. Thus, commenced the coexistence of the authentic and the artificial.

Mantra: “It is not about pretending to be something one is not, but, rather, about adding another layer to one’s already multi-layered identity.”

Furthermore, video games are no longer activities people play to pass the time; they provide real-world relevance. Currently worth over €80 billion, the gaming industry incentivizes gamers to avoid other activities and seek gaming. Because gaming platforms will become places where first-class cultural ideas will emerge and dictate other aspects of society, this Monomass interest promises to develop into an important arena for brands and their consumers.

MULTI-LAYERED

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To be influential, a brand must have a clear point of view, strong ethics, and a purpose that they stand by. Monomass consumers can detect fake and inauthentic positions, and will ‘cancel’ a brand because of it. With consumers actively seeking to understand other points of view, internalize diverse beauty standards, and adopt new approaches to living life, brands should look to tell stories with non-Western narratives. Brands should look to think local and act global.

Brands should aim to integrate their campaigns into multiple platforms, specifically virtual platforms. The most popular amongst this target include TikTok, Twitch, Playstation, and Youtube.

A Non-Western Narrative

Monomass consumers are educating themselves on the area of race, and expect successful brands to do the same. If brands fail to understand the severity of this topic and implement practices to actively prevent it, they risk experiencing the chaos of ‘cancel culture.’

Racial Equality

Multi-Platform Campaigns

New Platforms

Hand in hand with gender equality, gender expression, and fluidity are central concerns to the Monomass consumer. They want to break down stereotypes and gender standards, paving a path that creates inclusivity by prioritizing previously marginalized communities.

Standing by Clear POVs

Many brands are creating their own content, as consumers are increasingly searching for filtered-information in an oversaturated world. Brands should look to nurture their community through newsletters, private pages, and other subscription-based content.

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LGBTQ Rights Women’s Rights

MONOMASS CONSUMER CONCERNS

Like almost all Gen Z, Monomass consumers care about the environment and brands that practice sustainability in their supply chains. Because of this concern, Monomass consumers are conscious of their purchasing decisions and more attentive and knowledgeable about materials, labor laws, and ethical certifications. (Dazed Media Monomass report, Morace’s Paradigms)

CONNECTING WITH MONOMASS CONSUMERS

Based on the Monomass consumer’s values, beliefs, interests and attitudes brands can connect with them in following 6 ways:

Environmental Issues

191

Nostalgia With many Monomass consumers looking to escape their current reality, and 43% believing that their virtual reality is better than their current reality (Dazed Media Monomass report), consumers are turning to the 90s, at time that they feel was the most fun, and also are looking to integrate their better virtual reality into their present.

Monomass use AR, VR and other digital tools to change their identity.

MONOMASS BECAME THE REAL HERO SOCIETY NEEDED DURING THE COVID-19 LOCKDOWN. Monomass consumers are forming a future where realness and authenticity have a space to coexist with the openly fake.

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The Shite participates in all 5 play-types of Noh, wearing over 200 different masks.

The Shite uses the mask to change into a new character.

Through Noh, the Shite swings between this reality and the more desired spiritual Buddihst world.

Monomass consumers’ obsession with virtual reality allows them to experience the heightened reality they crave.

Monomass belongs to different sub-cultures at the same time, following a multi-layer approach to identity.

THE SHITE PLAYS THE LEADING CHARACTER THAT IS NOT ALWAYS PERFECT; THEY HAVE HUMAN FLAWS. The word tsukeru, is used when attaching a mask in the kagami no ma (mirror room). The Shite is not acting; he authentically is this character as soon as he wears his mask.

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After analyzing Monomass consumers, their interests and trends they follow, this section explores how Junya Watanabe can connect with them through the archetype of:

THE SHITE

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3D BUSINESS MODEL

This 3D business model outlines the business objectives of the proposed re-merchandising strategy. The brand aims to target the Monomass consumer, the Shite, through a collection that allows them to live in a heightened reality. In order to provide these products, the brand will employ the concept of solve et coagula throughout the collection.

Solve et coagula is a maxim or motto of alchemy that translates to “dissolve and coagulate.” According to this practice, something must be first broken down before it can be built up into something better.

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CO AGU LA Junya Watanabe will employ this method in the material selection and manipulation of the FF’22 winter collection, including taking discarded plastic and turning it into 3D printed accessories.

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CONCEPT

In keeping with the Noh archetype of the brand, the Shite archetype of the consumer, and the consumer’s desire to integrate their reality with virtual reality, the concept for Junya Watanabe’s FW’22 collection, titled Round 2, brings Noh Opera to the gaming platform.

This collection takes elements from one of the most ancient Japanese operas and translates them into the digital age as a video game. Therefore, this collection is also inspired by the iconic Japanese arcade game, Street Fighter. Created in 1987 by Takashi Nishiyama, Street Fighter follows martial artist Ryu as he competes in a worldwide martial arts tournament spanning five countries and ten opponents. A second player can play as Ryu’s friendly American rival, Ken Masters. Together, the Players try to win the tournament, leveling up after defeating their opponents. To win, they employ three punches and kick attacks, each varying in speed and strength, in addition to three special attacks.

ROUND b

200

NOH VIDEO GAME

NOH OPERA

VIRTUAL VIDEO GAME UNIVERSE

NOH STAGE

SELECTING AN AVATAR

KAGAMI-NO-MA(MIRROR ROOM)

In order to relate to the Monomass consumer and connect with their beliefs, this collection takes inspiration from Street Fighter while staying true to the essence of the brand, personified through the Noh archetype. Following this premise, the FW’22 collection translates the following elements between Noh and Street Fighter.

NOH PROPS (I.E. SWORDS)

PUNCHES, KICK ATTACKS

SHITE ACTOR

SHITE AVATAR SHITE’S OPPONENTS

WAKI ACTOR

CONVERSATION WITH NPC

NOH SCRIPT SHITE TRANSFORMATION

LOSING A LIFE, LEVELING UP GAMERS

NOH AUDIENCE

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ROUNDa In Round 1, humans and pixels stood on opposing sides, without any form of arbitration in sight.

Will the Shite win?

ROUNDb

Now it’s time for Round 2, where the Shite compromised the real and the artificial. The once contradictory concepts are now on the same side, through the Shite, in the fight for a heightened reality.

Will the Shite lose? 203

チグトリキ

IN A

KIRIT OGU CHI

E C

N A R

T N

INSPIRATION BOARD

MOOD BOARD

206 207

Suppliers: D-House, Italy Description: A manufacturer dedicated to developing prestigious synergies through collaborations with their technological partners.

MATERIALS 208

PRICING ARCHITECTURE

Supplier: Marzotto Wool, Italy Description: A luxurious and modern manufacturer that pairs wool with other fine fabrics.

WOOL MOHAIR BLEND

cD PRINTED RE-FILAMENT

PV SUNCORONA ODA

Supplier: Halley Stevensons, United Kingdom Description: Specialist dyers and finishers of traditional wax and oil treated cotton and canvases fabrics for apparel, accessories, footwear and luggage.

Supplier: Suncorona Oda, Japan Description: A manufacturer that develops and produces textiles for synthetic fiber thin fabrics and clothing, centered on organdy.

WAXED COTTON CANVAS

This collection accounts for a 20% increase in entry-level priced products as a result of the penetration-priced accessories line.

209

Following the framework: €0 to 500 is entry-level price, €501 to €1090 is mid-level price, and €1191+ is high-level price then Junya Watanabe’s FW’22 collection features 44% of garments at entry-level prices, 40% at mid-level prices, and 16% at high-level prices. While this collection focuses on offering directional and core carryovers, it does so at entry-level prices, in accordance with the target audience.

The collection’s main materials include waxed cotton canvas, PV Suncorona Oda, and a wool-mohair blend. Following the collection’s concept, the rigidity of the waxed canvas and the thickness of the wool-mohair blend juxtaposed against the translucent nature of the PV Suncorona oda alludes to the multi-layered approach to the identity of the consumer. Therefore, in typical Junya Watanabe style, the FF’22 collection tangibly communicates Junya Watanabe’s seasonal concept. For the collection’s accessory line, items are 3D printed, created through 3D printing technology that utilizes recycled plastics called re-filament. This technology can also render re-filament 3D printings on knitwear.

Regarding price, the employment of waxed cotton canvas instead of leather keeps outwear, traditionally the most expensive product category, at a lower production cost. While the wool-cotton blend is the highest-cost material throughout this collection, it remains inexpensive when compared to the materials from previous FW collections. Also, knitwear comprises only 10% of the entire collection. Additionally, all materials are sourced from suppliers that follow environmental and ethical practices in their supply chains, since sustainability is important to our consumers.

The material selections for Junya Watanabe’s FW’22 collection act as a tactile representation of the coexistence between reality and artificiality, while also adhering the solve et coagula component of the 3D business model, and the objectives of the re-merchandising strategy.

Category

Product Picture

Product Name 3D Printed Pixels Beanie

Color Black

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

XS-S, M-L

175.00

148.75

208.25

22,925.00

1,347.50 Entry-price

One size fits all

520.00

442.00

618.80

68,120.00

4,004.00 Mid-level

Category

Product Picture

Product Name

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

Color

Size

One size fits all

90.00

76.50

107.10

11,790.00

693.00 Entry-price

One size fits all

170.00

144.50

202.30

22,270.00

1,309.00 Entry-price

Square Scarf with Pixel Print White, Pixel Print

One size fits all

170.00

144.50

202.30

22,270.00

1,309.00 Entry-price

Square Scarf with Graphic

Black, Pixel Print

One size fits all

150.00

127.50

178.50

19,650.00

1,155.00 Entry-price

Pixel Print Scarf

Black, Pixel Print

One size fits all

190.00

161.50

226.10

24,890.00

1,463.00 Entry-price

Knitted Wrap Belt

Black, Pixel Print

One size fits all

275.00

233.75

327.25

36,025.00

2,117.50 Entry-price

Transparent Crossbody Bag

Clear

One size fits all

530.00

450.50

630.70

69,430.00

4,081.00 Mid-level

Transparent Oversized Bag with Pouch

Clear, Black

One size fits all

570.00

484.50

678.30

74,670.00

4,389.00 Mid-level

Pixel Dotted Clutch

Black, Pixel Print

One size fits all

285.00

242.25

339.15

37,335.00

2,194.50 Entry-price

3D Printed Glasses Chain

Accesories

Accesories 3D Printed Pixel Sunglasses

Red Scarf with Pixel Print

Red, Pixel Print

Accesories

Accesories 3D Printed Sunglasses

Blue

One size fits all

190.00

161.50

226.10

24,890.00

1,463.00 Entry-price

3D Printed Sunglasses

Red

One size fits all

190.00

161.50

226.10

24,890.00

1,463.00 Entry-price

3D Printed Sunglasses with Pixel Print

Black

One size fits all

190.00

161.50

226.10

24,890.00

1,463.00 Entry-price

Red Painters Cap with mohair lining

Red

XS-S, M-L

195.00

165.75

232.05

25,545.00

1,501.50 Entry-price

Black

S, M, L

520.00

442.00

618.80

68,120.00

4,004.00 Mid-level

Knitted Bucket Hat with 3D Printed Pixels

White

XS-S, M-L

175.00

148.75

208.25

22,925.00

1,347.50 Entry-price

90.00

76.50

107.10

11,790.00

693.00 Entry-price

Accesories

Bags

Accesories

Bags

Accesories 3D Printed Glasses Chain

One size fits all

Bags

Accesories

220

221

Category

Product Picture

Product Name Wrap-Around Crossbody Bag

Color Red

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

One size fits all

620.00

527.00

737.80

81,220.00

4,774.00 Mid-level

Knit Roll-Neck Dress with 3D Black Printed Harness

XS,S,M,L

990.00

841.50

1,178.10

129,690.00

7,623.00 Mid-level

Layer Pixel Print Dres with Harness

Black, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

1,980.00

1,683.00

2,356.20

259,380.00

15,246.00 High-level

Asymmetrical Drapped Dress

Blue, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

2,500.00

2,125.00

2,975.00

327,500.00

19,250.00 High-level

Asymmetrical Roll Neck Dress

Blue

XS,S,M,L

790.00

671.50

940.10

103,490.00

6,083.00 Mid-level

Asymmetrical Patchwork Dress

Purple, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

1,190.00

1,011.50

1,416.10

155,890.00

9,163.00 High-level

Double Brested Coat with Pockets

Blue, Black

S,M,L

2,100.00

1,785.00

2,499.00

275,100.00

16,170.00 High-level

Panelled Midi Coat

Black, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

1,590.00

1,351.50

1,892.10

208,290.00

12,243.00 High-level

Pixel Printed Trench Coat

Black

XS,S,M,L

990.00

841.50

1,178.10

129,690.00

7,623.00 Mid-level

Bags

Category

Product Picture

Product Name

Color

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

Layered Trench Coat

Blue, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

1,200.00

1,020.00

1,428.00

157,200.00

9,240.00 High-level

Fitted Biker Jacket with Contrasting Sleeves

Black, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

850.00

722.50

1,011.50

111,350.00

6,545.00 Mid-level

Oversized Gathered Sleeve Jacket

Black, Red

XS,S,M,L

1,200.00

1,020.00

1,428.00

157,200.00

9,240.00 High-level

Patchwork Blazer

Purple, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

790.00

671.50

940.10

103,490.00

6,083.00 Mid-level

Blazer Coat with Sleeve Detail

Purple, Pixel Print

S,M,L

1,800.00

1,530.00

2,142.00

235,800.00

13,860.00 High-level

Decontructed Cable Knint Sweater with 3D Printed Details

White

S,M,L

1,090.00

926.50

1,297.10

142,790.00

8,393.00 Mid-level

Gathered

Black

XS,S,M,L

490.00

416.50

583.10

64,190.00

3,773.00 Entry-price

V-neck Knit Jumper

Red

XS,S,M,L

710.00

603.50

844.90

93,010.00

5,467.00 Mid-level

Cage Knitted Jumper

Black, Red

S,M,L

790.00

671.50

940.10

103,490.00

6,083.00 Mid-level

Coats & Jackets

Dresses

Coats & Jackets

Dresses

Coats & Jackets

Dresses

Coats & Jackets

Dresses

Coats & Jackets

Dresses

Knitwear

Coats & Jackets

Knitwear

Coats & Jackets

Knitwear

Coats & Jackets

222

223

Category

Product Picture

Product Name

Color

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

Distressed Effect Crewneck Jumper

Blue

XS,S,M,L

590.00

501.50

702.10

77,290.00

4,543.00 Mid-level

High Rise Wide Leg Denim Trousers

Dark blue

XS,S,M,L

380.00

323.00

452.20

49,780.00

High Waisted Flare Trousers with hemline Detail

Red

XS,S,M,L

280.00

238.00

333.20

Wide Leg Wool Trousers

Black

XS,S,M,L

290.00

246.50

Pleated Palazzo Trousers

Black, Blue, Red

XS,S,M,L

750.00

Patchwork Denim Trousers

Dark blue

XS,S,M,L

Tabi Dress Shoes

Black

Tabi Chelsea Boots

Pleated Asymmetric Maxi Skirt

Category

Product Picture

Product Name

Color

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

Asymmetric Tulle-Layered Skirt

Black, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

1,200.00

1,020.00

1,428.00

157,200.00

9,240.00 High-level

2,926.00 Entry-price

High Waisted Pleated Midi Skirt

Black, Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

395.00

335.75

470.05

51,745.00

3,041.50 Entry-price

36,680.00

2,156.00 Entry-price

Asymmetrical Pixel Printed Skirt

Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

495.00

420.75

589.05

64,845.00

3,811.50 Entry-price

345.10

37,990.00

2,233.00 Entry-price

Pleated Wool-Blend Mini Skirt

Black

XS,S,M,L

295.00

250.75

351.05

38,645.00

2,271.50 Entry-price

637.50

892.50

98,250.00

5,775.00 Mid-level

Belted Double Breasted Mini Red Skirt

XS,S,M,L

540.00

459.00

642.60

70,740.00

4,158.00 Mid-level

510.00

433.50

606.90

66,810.00

3,927.00 Mid-level

Patchwork Construction Top Black, Red

S,M,L

890.00

756.50

1,059.10

116,590.00

6,853.00 Mid-level

34.5 - 39

590.00

501.50

702.10

77,290.00

4,543.00 Mid-level

White Button Down with Corest Detail

White, Black

XS,S,M,L

1,090.00

926.50

1,297.10

142,790.00

8,393.00 Mid-level

Black

34.5 - 39

990.00

841.50

1,178.10

129,690.00

7,623.00 Mid-level

Longline Cotton Shirt

White

XS,S,M,L

330.00

280.50

392.70

43,230.00

2,541.00 Entry-price

Purple

XS,S,M,L

1,090.00

926.50

1,297.10

142,790.00

8,393.00 Mid-level

Corset Detail Top

Red, Black

XS,S,M,L

535.00

454.75

636.65

70,085.00

4,119.50 Mid-level

Knitwear

Skirts

Pants

Skirts

Pants

Skirts

Pants

Skirts

Pants

Tops

Shoes

Tops

Shoes

Tops

Skirts

Tops

224

225

Category

Product Picture

Product Name

Color

Size

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Price Attribute

Roun 2 Long-sleeve T-Shirt

Purple

XS,S,M,L

275.00

233.75

327.25

36,025.00

2,117.50 Entry-price

Transparent Tatoo Top

Pixel Print

XS,S,M,L

350.00

297.50

416.50

45,850.00

2,695.00 Entry-price

Round 2 T-shirt

White

XS,S,M,L

250.00

212.50

297.50

32,750.00

1,925.00 Entry-price

Tops

669.83

226

いたう

O O B

んぼ

T N

A H

UTAI BO N

APPENDIX A - Spring/Summer 2021 Womenswear Collection Photo

Product Type

Product Name

Style Number

Size Range (EU)

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Material

Colors

Patterns

Silhouette

Short Description

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute Price Attribute

Photo

Product Type

Product Name

Style Number

Size Range (EU)

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Material

Colors

Patterns

Silhouette

Short Description

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute Price Attribute

Bag

Knotted-strap sequinned tote bag

N/A

824.00

700.40

980.56

107,944.00

6,344.80

Sequinned crepe.

Black

Solid

Junya Watanabe brings glamour to an effortless, soft Core form with the countless glittering sequins adorning this black tote bag. It's crafted in Japan with a knotted strap for added texture and has a press-stud top that opens to the sumptuous satin interior and slip pocket.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

COTTON BLEND DENIM JACKET

73I-XUB001

XS,S,M,L

499.00

424.15

593.81

65,369.00

3,842.30

58% Cotton, 42% Polyester

Denim

Solid

Rectangular

Front button closure Button cuffs Two breast pockets

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Bag

Knotted-strap sequinned tote bag

N/A

824.00

700.40

980.56

107,944.00

6,344.80

Sequinned crepe.

White

Solid

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

ORGANDY SEQUIN EMBROIDERY JACKET

73I-XUB012

XS,S,M,L

1,495.00

1,270.75

1,779.05

195,845.00

11,511.50

100% Polyester

White

Solid

Rectangular

Front button closure Button cuffs All over stitched sequins

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Bag

Sequinned tulle and satin handbag

N/A

824.00

700.40

980.56

107,944.00

6,344.80

Sequinned tulle.

White

Solid

Junya Watanabe embellishes this white handbag with Core countless round sequins reminiscent of confetti for a celebratory sense of texture. It's crafted in Japan, where the label is based, from tulle with a drawstring top that opens to the sumptuous satin interior and slip pocket. Carry it by the leather handle as a contemporary wedding-day accessory option.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

SEQUINED NYLON MESH JACKET

73I-XUB018

XS,S,M,L

1,745.00

1,483.25

2,076.55

228,595.00

13,436.50

Main 1: 100% Polyester Main 2: 79% Nylon, 21% Polyurethane

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Front button closure Button cuffs All over stitched sequins Partially lined

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Cape

SEQUINED STRETCH NYLON CAPE

73I-XUB035

XS,S,M,L

1,745.00

1,483.25

2,076.55

228,595.00

13,436.50

Main 1: 100% Polyester Main 2: 79% Nylon, 21% Polyurethane

White

Solid

Rectangular

Front button closure Button cuffs All over stitched sequins

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Sequined biker jacket

P00551725

XS,S,M,L

2,240.00

1,904.00

2,665.60

293,440.00

17,248.00

100% polyester lining: 100% cupro, partially lined

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Usually reserved for tough-luxe moments, the biker jacket receives a disco-ready update from Junya Watanabe with a coating of black sequins. This statement-making piece includes all the hallmarks of the classic style: an off-center zip fastening, wide lapels and a belted waist. Wear yours with the label's other sparkly separates.

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Coat

Cotton trench coat

P00551740

XS,S,M,L

2,240.00

1,904.00

2,665.60

293,440.00

17,248.00

material: 100% cotton material II: 53% cotton, 40% polyester, 7% polyurethane lining: 60% cupro, 40% polyester, fully lined

Beige and white Patchwork

Rectangular

Junya Watanabe's experimental tailoring codes are showcased by this beige trench coat. Made in Japan from cotton twill, it has a traditional oversized silhouette with white poplin paneling that creates a layered look.

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jeans

High-rise straight jeans

P00551744

XS,S,M,L

310.00

263.50

368.90

40,610.00

2,387.00

material: 100% cotton trim: 100% cow leather

Denim

Solid

Rectangular

Structure weekend looks around effortlessly elegant designs such as these indigo blue jeans from Junya Watanabe. Made from pure cotton denim, the highrise style has a straight leg that comes to a cropped length; idea for showcasing your latest statement sneakers.

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Coat

Sequinned layered cotton trench coat

XS,S,M,L

2,740.00

2,329.00

3,260.60

358,940.00

21,098.00

100% cotton. Lining: 100% cupra.

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Embellished with countless glittering sequins, Junya Watanabe's belted black cotton coat is a glamorous hybrid of trench and biker styles. It's crafted in Japan with a zipped top layer that loops around at the hem and runs upwards to form the base layer, which has a double-breasted front.

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Jeans

COTTON DENIM VINTAGE TREATED JEANS

73I-XUB006

XS,S,M,L

382.00

324.70

454.58

50,042.00

2,941.40

Main: 100% Cotton Details: Calf

Denim

Solid

Rectangular

Front button and concealed zip closure Stonewashed coloring may vary Five pockets

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Coat

Sequined wool-blend coat

XS,S,M,L

2,865.00

2,435.25

3,409.35

375,315.00

22,060.50

material: 50% polyester, 50% wool material II: 100% polyester

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Junya Watanabe takes inspiration from '60s glamour Directional to create this black coat from the Spring '21 collection – a capsule that was covered in sequins. Made in Japan, this wool-blend piece features an outer shells that's covered from neckline to hem in scores of black paillettes.

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jeans

DESTROYED COTTON DENIM JEANS

73I-XUB003

XS,S,M,L

450.00

382.50

535.50

58,950.00

3,465.00

Main: 100% Cotton Details: Cow

Denim

Solid

Rectangular

Front button and concealed zip closure Intentionally destroyed and faded areas may vary Five pockets

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Coat

Sequinned double-breasted cape trench coat

XS,S,M,L

2,990.00

2,541.50

3,558.10

391,690.00

23,023.00

100% cotton. Fabric 2: 100% polyester

White

Solid

Rectangular

Junya Watanabe’s white twill trench coat is joined with Directional a semi-sheer sequinned cape for a glamorous take on a heritage style developed in the early-19th century. It’ s crafted in Japan to a slim fit with shoulder epaulettes and double-breasted buttons, complete with a storm flap and silver cuff buckles.

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jeans

High-rise patchwork straight jeans

P00551746

XS,S,M,L

600.00

510.00

714.00

78,600.00

4,620.00

material: 100% cotton trim: 100% cow leather

Patchwork

Rectangular

Bring bohemian flair to your denim edit in the form of Basic/ Essential this indigo blue pair from Junya Watanabe. Defined by their patchwork detailing, the high-rise pair has a straight leg that comes to a cropped length; ideal for showcasing your latest statement sneakers.

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Cotton-blend shirt dress

P00551728

XS,S,M,L

475.00

403.75

565.25

62,225.00

3,657.50

53% cotton, 40% polyester, 7% White polyurethane

Solid

Rectangular

Add a refined touch to your desk-to-dark edit in the form of this bright white shirt dress from Junya Watanabe. Made from a lightweight cotton-blend fabric, the voluminous silhouette features a classic collar, button-down placket and chest pocket. Wear with slouchy ankle boots to style it for the weekend.

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jeans

High-rise patchwork straight jeans

P00551747

XS,S,M,L

600.00

510.00

714.00

78,600.00

4,620.00

material: 100% cotton trim: 100% cow leather

Patchwork

Rectangular

Bring bohmenian flair to your denim edit in the form of Core this light indigo blue pair from Junya Watanabe. Defined by its contrasting patchwork and distressed detailing, the high-rise pair has a straight leg that comes to a sligtly cropped length; ideal for showcasing your latest statement sneakers.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Dress

FAUX LEATHER & SEQUINED GEORGETTE DRESS

73I-XUB016

XS,S,M,L

2,179.00

1,852.15

2,593.01

285,449.00

16,778.30

Main 1: 100% Polyurethane Main 2: 100% Polyester

Silver

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Faux leather top panel Sequined georgette skirt panels Front off-center zip closure Front adjustable belt with metal buckle closure Back slit detail at collar Three front zip pockets One front snap button

Basic

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Leggings

High-rise cropped jersey leggings

P00551738

XS,S,M,L

285.00

242.25

339.15

37,335.00

2,194.50

90% nylon, 10% polyurethane

Black

Solid

Rectangular

These black leggings are a recurring foundation piece Basic/ Essential from Junya Watanabe's Spring '21 lookbook, which is an ode to the stars the label's founder grew up admiring. Made in Japan from glossy stretch jersey, they have a high-rise silhouette with cropped legs.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Dress

GEORGETTE SEQUIN EMBROIDERY CUPRO DRESS

73I-XUB025

XS,S

2,057.00

1,748.45

2,447.83

269,467.00

15,838.90

Main 1: 100% Polyester Main 2: 100% Cupro

Black

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Non-detachable sequined top panel with button closure Side slit at hem Raw cut details

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Leggings

Sequined mid-rise leggings

P00551719

XS,S,M,L

1,060.00

901.00

1,261.40

138,860.00

8,162.00

95% viscose, 5% polyurethane Silver 100% viscose

Solid

Rectangular

Equip your after-hours edit with some '70s-inspired Directional fun, courtesy of these silver-toned sequined leggings from Junya Watanabe. The statement-making pair is entirely wearable, with an elasticated waistband and a cropped length that begs to be partnered with your latest footwear obsession.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Dress

NYLON LONG DRESS W/ EMBROIDERED SEQUINS

73I-XUB011

XS,S,M,L

2,740.00

2,329.00

3,260.60

358,940.00

21,098.00

80% Nylon, 20% Polyester

White

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Fixed spaghetti straps Concealed back zip closure All over stitched sequins

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Pants

HIGH WAIST NYLON TWILL PANTS

73I-XUB028

XS,S,M,L

562.00

477.70

668.78

73,622.00

4,327.40

80% Polyester, 20% Nylon

White

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Externally extended waistband with button closure Concealed front zip closure Two side pockets Two back button slit pockets

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Sequined gown

P00551716

XS,S,M,L

2,740.00

2,329.00

3,260.60

358,940.00

21,098.00

material: 80% nylon, 20% polyurethane lining: 100% cupro, fully lined

Silver grey

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

For your next momentous occasion, enjoy an everimpressive metallic moment in this silver sequined gown from Junya Watanabe. Hanging from narrow shoulder straps that criss-cross elegantly over an open back, it's a statement piece that flares out gradually through the skirt for a flattering finish. Style with tonal jewelry and vertiginous sandals.

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Shirt

Cotton shirt

P00551730

XS,S,M,L

310.00

263.50

368.90

40,610.00

2,387.00

100% cotton

White

Solid

Rectangular

Cut a classically crisp silhouette when wearing this minimal white shirt from Junya Watanabe. Made from pure cotton, the loose-fitting style has a classic collar, button placket and a curved hem. Style it with cigarette pants in contrasting black and ballet flats.

Basic/ Essential

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Dress

Sequined cotton shirt dress

P00551739

XS,S,M,L

2,240.00

1,904.00

2,665.60

293,440.00

17,248.00

material: 100% polyester material II: 100% cotton

White

Solid

Rectangular

Junya Watanabe transforms the office-ready shirt dress into a statement-making party piece, coating this cotton design in glistening white sequins. The midi-length style is relaxed in fit, ensuring you'll feel most at ease while dressed up for your first postpandemic soirée. Complete your look with lace-up stiletto sandals.

Core

single use/ occasion

high end price

Shirt

Sequined shirt

P00551714

XS,S,M,L

935.00

794.75

1,112.65

122,485.00

7,199.50

100% polyester

Black

Solid

Rectangular

For a masculine-inspired take on cocktail dressing, consider this black shirt from Junya Watanabe. Arriving in an oversized fit, it has a classic silhouette with a pointed collar and buttoned placket, which is offset by its coating of disco-ready sequins. Style with black cigarette pants and patent pumps.

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Dress

ORGANDY SEQUINED RAMIE DRESS

73I-XUB027

XS,S,M,L

2,241.00

1,904.85

2,666.79

293,571.00

17,255.70

Main 1: 100% Polyester Main 2: 66% Rayon, 22% Ramie, 12% Polyester

White

Solid

Rectangular

Back hook closure at collar Back self-tie strings All over stitched sequins

Directional

single use/ occasion

high end price

Shoes

Sequined ankle boots

P00567426

35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 39.5, 40, 41

950.00

807.50

1,130.50

124,450.00

7,315.00

upper: fabric Black trim: calf leather sole: leather insole, rubber sole

Solid

A Western silhouette meets disco-ready glamour with Core these black ankle boots from Junya Watanabe. This pair is set on Cuban heels with tapered point toes and a metallic sequin coating. Style yours with boldly printed separates for a statement-making ensemble.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

P00551711

230

231

APPENDIX B - Fall/Winter 2020 Womenswear Collection Photo

Product Type Shoes

Shorts

Skirt

Product Name Sequined ankle boots

NYLON SEQUIN EMBROIDERY MINI SHORTS

Sequined wool-blend miniskirt

Style Number P00567425

73I-XUB020

Size Range (EU) 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 39.5, 40, 41

XS,S,M

Sequined wool- XS,S,M blend miniskirt

Price (EUR) 950.00

624.00

745.00

Price (GBP) 807.50

530.40

633.25

Price (USD) 1,130.50

742.56

886.55

Price (JPY) 124,450.00

81,744.00

97,595.00

Price (RMB) 7,315.00

4,804.80

5,736.50

Material

Colors

Patterns

upper: fabric Silver trim: calf leather sole: leather insole, rubber sole

Solid

80% Nylon, 20% Polyurethane Black

Solid

material: 50% polyester, 50% wool lining: 100% cupro, fully lined

Black

Solid

Silhouette

Rectangular

Triangular

Short Description

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute Price Attribute

A Western silhouette meets disco-ready glamour with Core these silver-tone ankle boots from Junya Watanabe. This pair is set on Cuban heels with tapered point toes and a metallic sequin coating. Style yours with boldly printed separates for a statement-making ensemble.

temporary-use/ seasonal

Elastic waistband All over stitched sequins

temporary-use/ seasonal

Directional

Structure dancefloor-ready looks around this black Core sequined miniskirt from Junya Watanabe. Made from a wool-blend, it's fully lined for comfortable wear and the style boasts both side slit pockets and back pockets – ideal for storing the night's essentials when on the move. Style with tonal wrap-tie stiletto sandals.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

P00551735

XS,S,M,L

175.00

148.75

208.25

22,925.00

1,347.50

100% cotton

White

Solid

Rectangular

Now more than ever, you'll find yourself dressed in Basic/ Essential trusted staples like this classic white T-shirt from Junya Watanabe. Made in Japan from ultra-soft cotton jersey, it has a classic fit that will pair effortlessly with both tailored and off-duty pants.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

T-Shirt

Sequined cotton T-shirt

P00551731

XS,S,M,L

500.00

425.00

595.00

65,500.00

3,850.00

100% cotton

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Ensure you stay comfortable but contemporary with Core this black T-shirt from Junya Watanabe, featuring a shimmering coating of sequins. Made from pure cotton, the crewneck design is a classic short-sleeved style with a relaxed fit. We'd like to see it with other equally as dazzling separates from the collection.

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

T-Shirt

Sequined T-shirt

P00551732

XS,S,M,L

1,060.00

901.00

1,261.40

138,860.00

8,162.00

80% nylon, 20% polyurethane

Silver

Solid

Rectangular

Core This year, we're forgoing the classic jersey T-shirt in favor of something more glamorous: this sequined top from Junya Watanabe. Completely covered in silvertone paillettes, this crewneck style is Made in Japan with a relaxed fit.

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Top

Cotton jersey tank top

P00551737

XS,S,M,L

160.00

136.00

190.40

20,960.00

1,232.00

100% cotton

White

Solid

Rectangular

Invest in comfort with elevated wardrobe staples, such Basic/ Essential as this black tank top, from Junya Watanabe. Made in Japan from ultra-soft cotton jersey, this classic-fit silhouette is a style you'll turn to summer after summer.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Top

Cotton jersey tank top

P00551736

XS,S,M,L

160.00

136.00

190.40

20,960.00

1,232.00

100% cotton

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Invest in comfort with elevated wardrobe staples, such Basic/ Essential as this black tank top from Junya Watanabe. Made in Japan from ultra-soft cotton jersey, this classic-fit silhouette is a style you'll turn to summer after summer.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Top

Sequined mesh top

P00551734

XS,S,M,L

375.00

318.75

446.25

49,125.00

2,887.50

80% nylon, 20% polyurethane

Black

Solid

Rectangular

long-sleeved design has a relaxed fit and is translucent save the sequined panel adorning the chest. Style alongside other sequined separates from the collection.

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Top

Sequined bralette

P00551727

XS,S,M,L

560.00

476.00

666.40

73,360.00

4,312.00

100% polyester

Black

Solid

Circular

It's a modern after-hours essential, and this Junya Watanabe bralette comes equipped with a coating of sensual black sequins. Designed with satin shoulder straps and a sweetheart neckline, it's fully lined for comfort, whether worn as a base layer underneath a blazer, or layered over a crisp white shirt.

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Junya Watanabe pays homage to the idols of his youth with styles, such as this white top, from the Spring '21 lookbook. Made in Japan from tulle, this sequin-embellished, semi-sheer piece is designed to hang loosely from the frame. Note the voluminous sleeves and cutout detailing.

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

P00551741

XS,S,M,L

1,555.00

1,321.75

1,850.45

203,705.00

11,973.50

100% polyester

White

Solid

Circular

Product Name

Style Number

Size Range (EU)

Price (EUR)

Price (GBP)

Price (USD)

Price (JPY)

Price (RMB)

Material

Colors

Patterns

Silhouette

Bubble-hem asymmetric sequinned top

XS,S,M,L

2,116.00

1,798.60

2,518.04

277,196.00

16,293.20

Black

Solid

Circular

Shaped to a playfully oversized asymmetric silhouette, Core Junya Watanabe’s avant-garde aesthetic is evident in this black top. It’s made in Japan from sequinned muslin with voluminous sleeves that seamlessly merge into the bubble hem and an off-centre layered back slit.

temporary-use/ seasonal

Short Description

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute

Price Attribute

JFK50305111

One size fits all

147.00

124.95

174.93

19,257.00

1,131.90

Polyester 95%, Polyurethane 5%

Brown, beige, black

leopard print

-N/A-

All-over leopard print semi-sheer construction high waist elasticated waistband

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Accessory

Spike multi chain necklace

JGK802051

One size fits all

252.00

214.20

299.88

33,012.00

1,940.40

Brass

Silver

solid

-N/A-

silver-tone brass rolo chain curb chain spiked stud design lobster claw fastening

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Accessory

Nylon Harness

JFK3100511

One size fits all

389.00

330.65

462.91

50,959.00

2,995.30

Nylon, Silver hardware

black, silver

solid

-N/A-

Adjustable harness

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Accessory

Black Leather Harness 202253F001043

One size fits all

510.00

433.50

606.90

66,810.00

3,927.00

Leather

Black

solid

-N/A-

Polished leather harness Stud detailing Adjustable straps with press-stud fastening Adjustable cinch fastening at waist Silver-tone hardware

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Accessory

Spike bead chain

JGK805051

XS, S, M, L

513.00

436.05

610.47

67,203.00

3,950.10

Brass

Silver

solid

-N/A-

Silver-tone brass spike stud detailing bead detailing

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Accessory

Studded strap braces

JFK302

One size fits all

658.00

559.30

783.02

86,198.00

5,066.60

Leather 100%

Black

solid

-N/A-

black leather rounded stud design small hoop design

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Accessory

Black Nylon Harness

202253F001045

One size fits all

875.00

743.75

1,041.25

114,625.00

6,737.50

Fabric, nylon

black

solid

-N/A-

Studded detailing throughout. Adjustable straps with post-stud fastening. Cinch fastenings at waist. Silver-tone hardware

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Brown & Black Leopard Print Dress

202253F054005

XS, S, M, L

785.00

667.25

934.15

102,835.00

6,044.50

100% polyester. Black, brown

leopard print

Rectangular

Under the knee Long sleeve satin mid-length dress featuring leopard pattern in tones of brown throughout. Spread collar. Button closure at front. Patch pocket at chest. Single-button barrel cuffs. Shirttail hem.

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Harness applicated dress

JFN0130512

XS, S, M, L

947.00

804.95

1,126.93

124,057.00

7,291.90

100%wool

black

Solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Ribbed High collar Applicated and adjustable harness in synthetic leather

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Dungaree midi dress

JFS006051SY1

XS, S, M, L

1,031.00

876.35

1,226.89

135,061.00

7,938.70

Outer: Nylon 100%, Artificial Leather 100%

Black

solid

A-line

Under the knee Halterneck square nec belted waist flared design

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Lining: Polyester 100% Top

Length

leopard-print highwaisted tights

core price

Cotton jersey T-shirt

Sequined top

Product Type Accessory

core price

T-Shirt

Top

Photo

high end price

Dress

Red Harness Turtleneck Dress

202253F052026

S, M, L, XL

1,065.00

905.25

1,267.35

139,515.00

8,200.50

100% wool

red, black

solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Ribbed High collar Applicated and adjustable harness in synthetic leather

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Black Lace Slip Dress

202253F052023

XS, S, M, L

1,125.00

956.25

1,338.75

147,375.00

8,662.50

Body: 100% cupro. Trim: 100% nylon.

Black

solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Sleeveless satin short dress in black. Tonal lace trim throughout. Adjustable straps with cinch fastening. V-neck collar. Silver-tone hardware.

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Dress

Bustier-bodice fauxleather flared dress

1378945

XS, S, M, L

2,392.00

2,033.20

2,846.48

313,352.00

18,418.40

Leather

Red

solid

A-line

Under the knee Buckled shoulder straps Bustier bodice, side twist Dart-tucked flared skirt Harness back Buckled fastenings Mid-weight faux leather

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

100% polyester.

232

233

Photo

Product Type Dress

Dress

Product Name Corset detail dress

Red Faux-Leather Tulle Dress

Style Number JFO009W20

202253F054002

Size Range (EU) S, M, L, XL

XS, S, M, L

Price (EUR) 2,740.00

4,560.00

Price (GBP) 2,329.00

3,876.00

Price (USD) 3,260.60

5,426.40

Price (JPY) 358,940.00

597,360.00

Price (RMB) 21,098.00

35,112.00

Material

Colors

Lining: Polyamide 100% Outer: Polyurethane Resin 100%

black

Body: 100% polyurethane. Trim: 100% nylon.

Red

Patterns solid

solid

Silhouette A-line

A-line

Length

Short Description

Under the knee Adjustable shoulder straps sweetheart neck wraparound style mid-length

Trend Attribute Directional

End Use Attribute single use/ occasion

Price Attribute high end price

single use/ occasion

high end price

Cut-detail midi dress

JFO00505112

S, M, L, XL

4,590.00

3,901.50

5,462.10

601,290.00

35,343.00

Polyurethane 100%

black

solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Under the knee Black cut-out detailing round neck long sleeves mid-length

Directional

single use/ occasion

high end price

Outwear

Cropped Jacket with harness

P00492009

XS, S, M, L

1,308.00

1,111.80

1,556.52

171,348.00

10,071.60

100% nylon, 100% pu

black

solid

Trapezoid

Above the knee Oversized shoulders Shoulder pad inserts Low back Loose fit, comes with belt Mid-weight material Stiff material Cropped

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Faux leather blazer

P00491980

XS, S, M, L

1,308.00

1,111.80

1,556.52

171,348.00

10,071.60

100% polyurethane

Black

solid

Trapezoid

Above the knee Details: 100% nylon lining: 100% cupro, fully lined breast pocket, flap pockets, internal pockets buttoned front shoulder pads buttoned cuffs

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Herringbone-tweed and faux-leather coat

1378967

XS, S, M, L

1,703.00

1,447.55

2,026.57

223,093.00

13,113.10

70% wool, 12% Yellow nylon, 12% alpaca, 6% mohair. Panels: 100% polyurethane resin. Lining: 100% cupro.

Herringbone tweed, yellow

Rectangular

To the knee

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Double-breasted chevron knit coat

C032051

XS, S, M, L

1,706.00

1,450.10

2,030.14

223,486.00

13,136.20

Lining: Cupro 100%

chevron print

Rectangular

Under the knee Chevron knit chest welt pocket double-breasted button fastening long sleeves buttoned cuffs two side flap pockets central rear vent knee-length

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outer: Wool 80%, Nylon 20%

Outwear

Black Faux-Leather Harness Jacket

202253F063014

XS, S, M, L

1,775.00

1,508.75

2,112.25

232,525.00

13,667.50

Body: 100% Black polyurethane. Lining: 100% cupro. Padding: 100% polyester. Trim: 100% nylon

solid

Trapezoid

Above the knee Long sleeve quilted panelled grained leather jacket in black. Harness-style construction. Webbing straps and hardware throughout. Crewneck collar. Adjustable webbing belt with pressrelease fastening at waist. Zippered vents at sleeves. Tonal satin lining. Silver-tone hardware

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Black Faux-Leather Harness Jacket

202253F063014

XS, S, M, L

1,775.00

1,508.75

2,112.25

232,525.00

13,667.50

Body: 100% Black polyurethane. Lining: 100% cupro. Padding: 100% polyester. Trim: 100% nylon.

solid

Trapezoid

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Black Herringbone Runway Blazer

202253F057014

XS, S, M, L

1,945.00

1,653.25

2,314.55

254,795.00

14,976.50

Body: 48% Black polyester, 47% wool, 5% nylon. Lining: 100% cupro. Trim: 100% leather.

solid

Trapezoid

Above the knee Long sleeve wool-blend herringbone Basic blazer in black. Notched lapel collar. Two-button closure at front. Welt pocket at chest. Darts and flap pockets at waist. Tonal leather patch and stud detailing at sleeves. Three-button surgeon cuffs. Central vent at back hem. Tonal satin lining. Silver-tone hardware.

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Black Wool DoubleBreasted Coat

202253F059011

XS, S, M, L

2,050.00

1,742.50

2,439.50

268,550.00

15,785.00

Body: 100% wool. Lining: 100% cupro.

solid

Rectangular

Under the knee Long sleeve wool twill coat in black. Notched lapel collar. Double-breasted button closure at front. Welt pockets at waist. Central vent at back hem. Fully lined.

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Outwear

Black Faux-Leather & Tweed Blazer

202253F057012

XS, S, M, L

2,250.00

1,912.50

2,677.50

294,750.00

17,325.00

Body 1: 100% Black, brown polyurethane. Body 2: 34% wool, 33% silk, 33% linen. Trim: 100% nylon. Lining: 100% cupro.

houndstooth plaid

Trapezoid

Directional Above the knee Long sleeve panelled faux-leather and wool, silk, and linen-blend tweed blazer in tones of black and beige. Integrated webbing harness. Cut-outs throughout. Notched lapel collar. Two-button closure at front. Welt pocket at chest. Flap pockets and integrated webbing belt with press-release fastening at waist. Fourbutton surgeon cuffs. Tonal satin lining. Silver-tone hardware.

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Body: 100% Wool Details: 100% Cow

solid

Under the knee Lightly padded shoulders, front button Basic closure, button cuffs, includes adjustable leather harness with buckle closure, two side oversized 3D leather pockets, lined, buy your usual size, contains non-textile parts of animal origin

Multiple use/ carryover

Outwear

Wool coat w/ leather harness

72I-XUB005

S, M, L

2,618.00

2,225.30

3,115.42

342,958.00

20,158.60

234

Black

Red

A-line

Product Name Harness-embellished long coat

Style Number JFC018051WL1

Size Range (EU) S, M, L

Price (EUR) 2,618.00

Price (GBP) 2,225.30

Price (USD) 3,115.42

Price (JPY) 342,958.00

Price (RMB) 20,158.60

Material Lining: Nylon 100%, Cupro 100%

Colors

Patterns

Silhouette

Core

Outwear

Belted blazer coat

JFJ008

XS, S, M, L

3,400.00

2,890.00

4,046.00

445,400.00

26,180.00

Lining: Cupro 100%

Length

Short Description

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute

Price Attribute

Black

solid

Rectangular

Under the knee Cut-out detailing notched lapels buckle fastening long sleeves straight hem

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Grey, white

solid

A-line

Above the knee Peak lapels double-breasted button fastening chest welt pocket belted waist two front flap pockets long sleeves buttoned cuffs

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Outer: Wool 60%, Cashmere 40%

Dress

Red/ brown

Product Type Outwear

Outer: Wool 90%, Nylon 10%

Under the knee Sleeveless faux-leather mid-length dress Directional in red. Layered construction. Tulle underlay, hardware, and zipper detailing throughout. Adjustable shoulder straps with pin-buckle fastening. Square-neck collar. Silver-tone hardware.

Mid-weight herringbone wool-blend tweed Faux-leather panels Notch lapels Coin flaps and zipped pockets Asymmetric zip

Photo

Shoes

Black Harness Low Heels

202253F122104

34.5 - 39

1,445.00

1,228.25

1,719.55

189,295.00

11,126.50

Leather

Black

solid

-N/A-

Polished leather heels in black. Harness- Core style straps throughout. Pointed toe. Zip closure at inner side. Stacked heel. Treaded leather and rubber outsole. Silver-tone hardware. Approx. 2" heel.

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Shoes

Black Harness Low Heels

202253F122103

34.5 - 39

1,455.00

1,236.75

1,731.45

190,605.00

11,203.50

Leather

Black

solid

-N/A-

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Skirt

Midi pencil-skirt

JGS013051

XS, S, M, L

419.00

356.15

498.61

54,889.00

3,226.30

Lining: Cupro 100%

Black

solid

Rectangular

Under the knee Linen-blend pencil design mid-length rear slit high-waisted rear zip fastening

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Outer: Polyester 69%, Linen/Flax 31%

Skirt

Buckled strap pleated skirt

JFS00905113

XS, S, M, L

657.00

558.45

781.83

86,067.00

5,058.90

Polyester 48%, Wool 47%, Nylon 5%

Black

solid

A-line

Above the knee Wool-blend flared check print high waist

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Skirt

Harness application skirt

JFO0060511

XS, S, M, L

967.00

821.95

1,150.73

126,677.00

7,445.90

Polyurethan Synthetic leather// 70% pu 30% ny

black

Solid

Rectangular

Above the knee Nylon harness application

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Skirt

Black Faux-Leather Trench Skirt

202253F090008

XS, S, M, L

1,230.00

1,045.50

1,463.70

161,130.00

9,471.00

Body: 100% pu. black Lining: 100% cupro

solid

Circular

Basic Above the knee Faux-leather. Mid-rise. Two-pocket styling. Integrated belt with pin-buckle fastening at waistband. Button closure at front. Pleats at back. Tonal satin lining. Tonal hardware

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Skirt

Black Wool 202253F092018 Herringbone OneStrap Suspender Skirt

XS, S, M, L

1,435.00

1,219.75

1,707.65

187,985.00

11,049.50

Body: 48% Black polyester, 47% wool, 5% nylon. Trim: 100% nylon.

solid

A-line

Under the knee Ribbed High collar Applicated and adjustable harness in synthetic leather

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Skirt

Black Faux-Leather Pleated Skirt

202253F092026

XS, S, M, L

1,775.00

1,508.75

2,112.25

232,525.00

13,667.50

100% pu

black

solid

A-line

Under the knee Panelled buffed faux-leather mid-length skirt Mid-rise Adjustable strap with press-release fastening at waistband Overlay and vent at front Garment pleating throughout Unlined Silver-tone hardware

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Skirt

Faux-leather buckled skirt

JFO00605113

XS, S, M, L

1,813.00

1,541.05

2,157.47

237,503.00

13,960.10

Outer: Nylon 100%, Artificial Leather 100%

Black

solid

Rectangular

Above the knee Fitted silhouette adjustable braces straight hem

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Lining: Cupro 100%

Skirt

Black Faux-Leather Pleated Suspender Skirt

202253F090006

XS, S, M, L

2,460.00

2,091.00

2,927.40

322,260.00

18,942.00

Body: 100% polyurethane. Lining: 100% cupro. Trim: 100% nylon.

Black

solid

A-line

Above the knee Grained faux-leather pleated miniskirt in black. Harness-style webbing straps, hardware, and press-release fastening throughout. Zip closure at outseam. Silver-tone hardware

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

T-shirt

Harness application tshirt

JFT0040511

XS, S, M, L

410.00

348.50

487.90

53,710.00

3,157.00

100% Cotton jersey

white, black

solid

Rectangular

Above the knee Crewneck, Removable leather harness

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

high end price

235

APPENDIX C - Spring/Summer 2021 Menswear Collection Photo

Product Type T-shirt

T-shirt

Top

Product Name

Style Number

White Harness 2 TShirt

202253F110028

Black & White Check Harness T-Shirt

202253F110030

Zebra print longline shirt

JFB0020511

Black Faux-Leather Bra Tank Top

202253F111015

Size Range (EU) XS, S, M, L

XS, S, M, L

Price (EUR) 1,190.00

1,230.00

463.00

605.00

Price (GBP) 1,011.50

1,045.50

393.55

514.25

Price (USD) 1,416.10

1,463.70

550.97

719.95

Price (JPY) 155,890.00

161,130.00

60,653.00

79,255.00

Price (RMB) 9,163.00

9,471.00

3,565.10

4,658.50

Material Body: 100% cotton. Trim: 100% polyurethane.

Colors Black

Patterns solid

Silhouette -N/A-

Length -N/A-

Short Description Short sleeve cotton jersey T-shirt in white. Detachable faux-leather harness with press-stud fastening. Crewneck collar. Silver-tone hardware.

Trend Attribute Basic

End Use Attribute Multiple use/ carryover

Price Attribute

Body: 100% black, white, wool, trim: grey 100% synthetic leather.

checkered print Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Long sleeve rib knit T-shirt featuring Core check pattern. Crewneck collar. Harnessstyle faux-leather overlay in black featuring ring-hardware. Silver-tone hardware

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Polyester 100% Black, white

zebra print

Above the knee Classic collar semi-sheer construction front button fastening long sleeves buttoned cuffs curved hem

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Above the knee Sleeveless grained faux-leather tank top in black. Wrap construction. V-neck collar. Self-tie strap with cinch fastening at waist. Silver-tone hardware.

Core

100% pu, 100% Black cotton lining

solid

Rectangular

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Multiple use/ carryover

Photo

Product Name

Style Number

Bag

Product Type

Typography Tote Bag

One size

Size Range (EU)

215.00

Price (GBP)

249.4

Price (EUR)

296.79

Price (USD)

32,671.40

Price (JPY)

1,920.38

Price (RMB)

100% Nylon

Material

White/Black

Colors

printed

Patterns

Rectangular

Silhouette -

Length

Print from Spin/Adventures in Typography Vol. 2 by Tony Brook

Short Description

Directional

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute Price Attribute temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Jacket

XS, S, M, L, XL

915.00

1061.4

1,263.07

139,043.40

8,172.78

52% Wool, 48% Ramie

Navy

solid

Regular

Round lapel Zip front and cuff closures Patch pocket detail Lined with seasonal print Print from Max's Sandwich Book by Max Halley and Ben Benton

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Jacket

Rubber Print Jacket

XS, S, M, L, XL

700.00

812

966.28

106,372.00

6,252.40

65% Cotton, 35% Polyester

Beige/Brown/Blac

solid

Regular

Concealed zip closure Two side pockets Patch on rear Shoulder pads Buttoned cuffs and waist Back patch

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Jacket

Topstitch Jacket

S, M, L, XL

805.00

933.8

1,111.22

122,327.80

7,190.26

70% Cotton, 30% Hemp / 60% Cotton, 40% Linen

Light Blue/Beige

solid

Regular

Contrast topstitch Contrast elbow patches Peak lapels Single breasted Front flap pockets Chest welt pocket

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Panelled Shirt Jacket

XS, S, M, L

860.00

997.6

1,187.14

130,685.60

7,681.52

100% Cotton

Navy/White

striped

Regular

Zip closures including front, pockets, cuffs Chest and arm pockets Panelled construction

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Jacket

Linen Notebook Jacket

S, M, L

915.00

1061.4

1,263.07

139,043.40

8,172.78

100% Linen / 100% Polyester

Brown

solid

Regular

Notched lapels Mismatched button closures Three front patch pockets Seasonal printed lining

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

high end price

Entry level price

Print from On Keeping a Notebook by Jamie Hawkesworth and Joan Didion

Top

Top con harness in similpelle

P00491988

XS, S, M, L

655.00

556.75

779.45

85,805.00

5,043.50

65% nylon, 34% Black wool, 1% pu

Top

Patch-pocket longline zebra shirt

JFO0140511

XS, S, M, L

680.00

578.00

809.20

89,080.00

5,236.00

Viscose 100%

Black, white

Top

Brown & Black Leopard Print Shirt

202253F109020

XS, S, M, L

705.00

599.25

838.95

92,355.00

5,428.50

100% polyester Black, brown

solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Ribbed High collar Applicated and adjustable harness in synthetic leather

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

zebra print

Rectangular

Above the knee Chest patch pocket straight-point collar buttoned-cuff sleeves front button fastening

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

leopard print

Rectangular

Above the knee Long sleeve satin shirt featuring leopard Basic pattern in tones of brown throughout. Spread collar. Button closure at front. Patch pocket at chest. Two-button barrel cuffs. Shirttail hem.

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Top

Black Faux-Leather Corset

202253F285114

XS, S, M, L

1,150.00

977.50

1,368.50

150,650.00

8,855.00

100% pu

Black

solid

Mermaid/ Bodycon

Above the knee Sleeveless faux-leather corset in black. Adjustable halter strap and belt-style strap with press-release fastening. Structured cups. Silver-tone hardware

Trousers

Black Pleated Skirt Trousers

202253F087041

XS, S, M, L

745.00

633.25

886.55

97,595.00

5,736.50

50% wool, 50% Black polyester.

solid

Rectangular

To the knee

Directional

Slim-fit wool-blend twill skirt-style Core trousers in black. Mid-rise. Pleating throughout. Zip closure and paneled trim at side-seam. Asymmetric hem. Silvertone hardware.

Jacket

Topstitch Jacket

S, M, L

1,020.00

1183.2

1,408.01

154,999.20

9,110.64

100% Linen

Indigo

solid

Regular

Linen denim Classic jean style topstitch details Single button closure Front flap pockets Chest welt pocket Back vent

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Jacket

Panelled Shirt Jacket

S, M, L, XL

1,020.00

1183.2

1,408.01

154,999.20

9,110.64

66% Linen, 32% Rayon, 2% Cotton / 100% Linen

Beige/Grey

striped

Regular

Zip closures including front, pockets, cuffs Chest and arm pockets Panelled construction

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Jacket

Wool Check Jack

S, M, L

1,020.00

1183.2

1,408.01

154,999.20

9,110.64

100% Wool

Navy

solid

Regular

Three button fastening Two side pockets Chest welt pocket Notched lapel Lined with seasonal print

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Elbow Patch Check Jacket

S, M, L, XL

1,020.00

1183.2

1,408.01

154,999.20

9,110.64

73% Wool, 14% Charcoal/Blue Polyester, 13% Linen

solid

Regular

Three button single breast blazer Notched lapels Front patch pockets Elbow patches Lined with seasonal print

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Panelled Jacket

S, M, L, XL

1,130.00

1310.8

1,559.85

171,714.80

10,093.16

66% Linen, 32% Beige/Grey Rayon, 2% Cotton / 100% Linen / 100% Cotton / 60% Cotton, 40% Linen

houndstooth plaid

Regular

Zip pocket details Topstitch detail Single breasted, three button closure Contrasting panel construction

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Jacket

Cloth Herringbone Chambray Jacket -

S, M, L

1,130.00

1310.8

1,559.85

171,714.80

10,093.16

100% Linen

Natural/Beige

patchwork

Regular

Three front pockets Embroidery detail Notch lapels

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jacket

Wool Mohair Denim Jacket

S, M, L

1,350.00

1566

1,863.54

205,146.00

12,058.20

91% Wool, 9% Mohair

Navy/White

solid

Regular

Notch lapels Embroidery detail Front flap pockets Chest welt pocket

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Jacket

Linen Denim Jacket

S, M, L, XL

1,450.00

1682

2,001.58

220,342.00

12,951.40

60% Cotton, 40% Linen

Indigo

patchwork

Regular

Patchworking detail Embroidery Secure front pockets Lined with seasonal print

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Jacket

Linen Cloth Jacket

S, M, L

1,450.00

1682

2,001.58

220,342.00

12,951.40

100% Linen

Red

solid

Regular

Four button fastening Embroidery detail Secure front pockets Lined with seasonal print Print from Helvetica: Homage to a Typeface by Lars Müller

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Jacket

Nylon Oxford/ Taffeta Print Shirt -

S, M, L, XL

750.00

870

1,035.30

113,970.00

6,699.00

100% Nylon

Orange/Black/White

solid

Regular

Press snap fastening Two side welt pockets Adjustable drawcord waist Chest and sleeve print Print from Helvetica: Homage to a Typeface by Lars Müller

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Grotesk Remix Jacket

S, M, L, XL

860.00

997.6

1,187.14

130,685.60

7,681.52

100% Polyester

White/Black/Purple

printed

Regular

Notched lapels Curved hem, back vent Three front patch pockets Garment treated Printed lining

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Spin Jacket

S, M, L

915.00

1061.4

1,263.07

139,043.40

8,172.78

100% Cotton

White/Black

printed

Regular

Notched lapels Cutout collar at back of neck Curved hem, back vent Three front patch pockets Garment washed Printed lining Back print

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Wool Print Jacket

S, M, L

955.00

1107.8

1,318.28

145,121.80

8,530.06

100% Wool

Black/Navy/White

printed

Regular

Chest pocket Two welt pockets All-over print Back vent

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Jacket

Th Rose Prblm Jacket

XS, S, M, L

1,450.00

1682

2,001.58

220,342.00

12,951.40

100% Cotton

White

printed

Regular

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

high end price

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Entry level price

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Print from The Hard Life by Jasper Morrison

Print from Best Before End by Stephen Gill Patchwork construction Topstitch detail Wide notched lapels Incorporated patchwork art from Th Rose Prblm by Roni Horn Jeans

236

Denim/Resin Deconstructed Levi's - Jeans

XS, S, M, L

485.00

562.6

669.49

73,700.60

4,332.02

100% Cotton

237

Indigo

solid

Regular

Asymmetric deconstructed back waistband Exposed seam ends Mismatched pocket placement Resin finish

Photo

Product Type Pants

Product Name

Style Number

Tropical Wool Polyester Pants

Size Range (EU) S, M, L, XL

Price (GBP) 410.00

Price (EUR) 475.6

Price (USD) 565.96

Price (JPY) 62,303.60

Price (RMB) 3,662.12

Material

Colors

50% Wool 50% Polyester

Black

Patterns solid

Silhouette Regular

Length -

Short Description

Trend Attribute

Three pocket construction Belt loops

Basic

End Use Attribute Price Attribute Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Photo

Product Type T-shirt

Product Name Whole Fish T-Shirt

Style Number -

Size Range (EU) S, M, L

Price (GBP) 250.00

Price (EUR) 290

Price (USD) 345.10

Price (JPY) 37,990.00

Price (RMB) 2,233.00

Material 100% Cotton

Colors White/Black

Patterns printed

Silhouette Rectangular

Length -

Short Description Printed front graphic

Trend Attribute

End Use Attribute Price Attribute

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Print from The Whole Fish Cookbook by Josh Niland

Pants

Cotton Twill Pants

S, M, L

495.00

574.2

683.30

75,220.20

4,421.34

100% Cotton

Beige

solid

Regular

Five pocket construction Adjustable waist tabs Belt loops

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

T-shirt

Typography T-Shirt

S, M, L

195.00

226.2

269.18

29,632.20

1,741.74

100% Cotton

White/Black

printed

Rectangular

Short sleeve Crew neck Front print

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Shirt

Cotton Shirt

XS, S, M, L, XL

410.00

475.6

565.96

62,303.60

3,662.12

100% Cotton

White

solid

Regular

Buttoned ticket pocket Buttoned cuffs Embroidery detail

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

T-shirt

Zoo T-Shirt

S, M, L

195.00

226.2

269.18

29,632.20

1,741.74

100% Cotton

White/Black

printed

Rectangular

Short sleeve Crew neck Front print

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

Print from Which Way To The Zoo? by William Wondriska Shirt

Check Short Sleeve Shirt

S, M, L, XL

365.00

423.4

503.85

55,465.40

3,260.18

100% Cotton / 70% White/Black/Grey Polyester, 30% Wool

check

Regular

Chest pocket detail Button closures Panelled construction

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

T-Shirt

S, M, L

195.00

226.2

269.18

29,632.20

1,741.74

100% Cotton

White/Black

printed

Rectangular

Short sleeve Crew neck Front print Print from Spin: 360° by Tony Brook

Shirt

Stripe Plaid Shirt

Cotton Stripe Shirt

XS, S, M, L, XL

S, M, L, XL

410.00

475.6

565.96

62,303.60

3,662.12

100% Cotton

White/Navy/Khaki

White/Sax/Navy

striped

Regular

Contrasting panel

Contrast panels Embroidery detail Chest pocket

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

T-shirt

Print T-Shirt

S, M, L

245.00

284.2

338.20

37,230.20

2,188.34

100% Cotton

White/Red

printed

Rectangular

Printed front graphic Print from Alphabet by Květa Pacovská

T-shirt

Grotesk Remix T-Shirt

S, M, L

250.00

290

345.10

37,990.00

2,233.00

100% Cotton

White/Black/Purple

printed

Rectangular

Short sleeve Crew neck All over print Print from GroteskRemix by Benoît Bodhuin

Shirt

Stripe/Check Shirt

Cotton Zip Shirt

Cotton Check Shirt

Typography Print Shirt

Multi Fabric Patchwork Shirt

S, M, L, XL

S, M, L

485.00

535.00

590.00

410.00

700.00

562.6

620.6

684.4

475.6

812

669.49

738.51

814.44

565.96

966.28

73,700.60

81,298.60

89,656.40

62,303.60

106,372.00

4,332.02

4,778.62

5,269.88

3,662.12

6,252.40

100% Cotton/Nylon Mix

White/Navy/Grey/Re striped, check d

Regular

100% Cotton

White/Grey

Regular

100% Cotton

White/Navy

White/Black

White/Mix

striped

printed

striped, patchwork

Regular

Contrast panels Embroidery detail Chest pocket

Core

Front zip fastening Zip pockets Contrast stripe back panel Buttoned cuffs

Core

Secure chest pocket Embroidery detail Contrast yoke Buttoned cuffs

Core

Short sleeve Point lapels Button placket detail Garment washed Front print Back patch

Directional

Print from Spin/Adventures in Typography Multi1fabric patchwork Vol. by Tony Brook Chest pocket Buttoned cuffs

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

T-shirt

Max's T-Shirt

Jersey/Cloth Print T-Shirt

S, M, L

250.00

290

345.10

37,990.00

2,233.00

100% Cotton

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Directional

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,185.00 44, 44.5, 45

214.6

255.37

28,112.60

1,652.42

100% Leather

Black

solid

-N/A-

Reinforced upper for added durability Suede/textile material Polyurethane insert for impact protection Durable vulcanized rubber outsole

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shoes

New Balance AM574

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,220.00 44, 44.5, 45, 45.5

255.2

303.69

33,431.20

1,965.04

Upper: Textile, Sole: Rubber

Green

solid

-N/A-

Suede and mesh upper REVlite™ midsole Heel branding

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shoes

New Balance AM574

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,220.00 44, 44.5, 45, 45.5

255.2

303.69

33,431.20

1,965.04

Upper: Textile, Sole: Rubber

Black

solid

-N/A-

Suede and mesh upper REVlite™ midsole Heel branding

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shoes

New Balance AM575

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,220.00 44, 44.5, 45, 45.5

255.2

303.69

33,431.20

1,965.04

Upper: Textile, Sole: Rubber

Beige

solid

-N/A-

Suede and mesh upper REVlite™ midsole Heel branding

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shoes

New Balance BB480

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,235.00 44, 44.5, 45, 45.5

272.6

324.39

35,710.60

2,099.02

100% Leather / 100% Rubber

White/Black

solid

-N/A-

Heel and insole eYe branding Unpadded branded tongue Classic side panel N logos Perforated toe-box Flat laces

Core

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shoes

Low Sneaker

40.5, 41.5, 42, 42.5, 43,365.00 44, 44.5, 45

423.4

503.85

55,465.40

3,260.18

Upper: Leather, Sole: White Rubber

solid

-N/A-

Classic white leather shoes

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Shorts

Linen Levi's Shorts

S, M, L

700.00

812

966.28

106,372.00

6,252.40

100% Linen

Navy/White

solid

Regular

Five pocket construction Drop crotch Adjustable back waist tab

Basic

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Shorts

Panelled Shorts

XS, S, M

645.00

748.2

890.36

98,014.20

5,761.14

60% Cotton, 40% Linen / 75% Cotton, 25% Nylon / 67% Cotton, 33% Nylon

White

patchwork

Regular

Panelled construction Buttoned waistband, zip fly Side slip pockets Back welt pockets Front pleats

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

core price

T-shirt

Jersey Print T-Shirt

S, M, L

195.00

226.2

269.18

29,632.20

1,741.74

100% Cotton

White/Beige/Black

printed

Rectangular

Printed front graphic

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Core

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

Print from The Hard Life by Jasper Morrison

S, M, L

195.00

226.2

269.18

29,632.20

1,741.74

100% Cotton

White/Grey/Blue

printed

Rectangular

Printed front graphic Print from Blank by Irma Blank

238

Rectangular

Printed front graphic Print from Max's Sandwich Book by Max Halley and Ben Benton

Printed front panel Printed graphic on back

T-shirt

Th Rose Prblm T-Shirt

S, M, L

300.00

348

414.12

45,588.00

2,679.60

100% Cotton

White

printed

Rectangular

Short sleeve Crew neck Front print

T-shirt

Jersey Print T-Shirt

Dr Slump T-Shirt

S, M, L

300.00

375.00

348

435

414.12

517.65

45,588.00

56,985.00

2,679.60

3,349.50

100% Cotton

White/Red/Yellow/Bl ue

printed

White/Black/Red

printed

Rectangular

All-over print Print from Helvetica: Homage to a Typeface by Lars Müller

Rectangular

Printed front and back graphics Print from Dr. Slump by Akira Toriyama

New Balance Numeric 379

White/Grey/Black/Na printed vy

Print from Th Rose Prblm by Roni Horn

Shoes

Jersey Print T-Shirt

Rectangular

Print from Best Before End by Stephen Gill

Patchwork from Alphabet by Květa Pacovská

T-shirt

White/Grey/Yellow/Bl printed ack

239

APPENDIX D - Fall/Winter 2020 Menswear Collection

XS - XL

1,250.00

1,062.50

1,487.50

163,750.00

9,625.00

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Blue, gret

Patchowrk, plaid

Rectangular

Notched lapels, V-neck, front button fastening, long sleeves, patchwork design, two side flap pockets

Directional

Multiple use/ carryover

high end price

Outwear

Blazer with design patchwork

WFJ005051

XS - XL

1,511.00

1,284.35

1,798.09

197,941.00

11,634.70

Exterior: Cotone 100%, Polyurethane 100%, Wool 100%

Pants

Straight Cargo Pants

WFP023

X - XL

437.00

371.45

520.03

57,247.00

3,364.90

Cotton 96%, Polyurethane 4%

Black

Solid

Rectangular

Wide leg, button fastening, belt loops, Basic two side slit pockets, two rear welt pockets

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Shirt

Button down with contrasting panels

WGB019

XS - XL

570.00

484.50

678.30

74,670.00

4,389.00

Cotton 100%, Nylon 100%

Blue, white

Stripes

Rectangular

Color-block panelled design, diagonal Core stripe print, classic collar, front zip fastening, long sleeves, buttoned cuffs, two side slit pockets, straight hem

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Shirt

button down with application

WGB904100

XS - XL

563.00

478.55

669.97

73,753.00

4,335.10

Cotton 100%

Blue

Solid

Rectangular

Classic collar, front button fastening, Core long sleeves, buttoned cuffs, two side slit pockets, straight hem

Multiple use/ carryover

core price

Shoes

Sneakers Junya Watanabe x New Balance

AM574EYC

XS - XL

265.00

225.25

315.35

34,715.00

2,040.50

Sole: Rubber 100% Black white

Solid

Rectangular

Calf leather, round toe, front lace-up Directional fastening, logo patch at the tongue, branded heel counter, branded insole, flat rubber sole

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

T shirt

Graphic T shirt

WGT0060511

XS - XL

290.00

246.50

345.10

37,990.00

2,233.00

Cotton 100%

Black, multi-color print

Graphic monkey face

Rectangular

crew neck, shot-sleeved jersey knit tshirt with a monkey print

temporary-use/ seasonal

Entry level price

T-shirt

Graphic T shirt

WGT0060432

XS - XL

175.00

148.75

208.25

22,925.00

1,347.50

Cotton 100%

Red, yellow

Logo

JUNYA WATANABE

Exterior: Calf leather 100%, Polyester 100%

UNDERCOVER

Lining: Cupro 100%

240

Rectangular

Directional

Collaboration x Pirelli patch red cotton Directional t-shirt with a round neck, short sleeves, and straight hem

Multiple use/ carryover

Entry level price

Average price

Lining: Fabric 100%

€ 153.00

Knitted construction, contrasting panel detail, notched lapels, front button fastening, long sleeves, buttoned cuffs, sleeve zip pocket, chest patch pocket, two front flap pockets, full lining

€ 997.55

€ 1,004.00

Circular

Fodera: Cupro 100%

Patchowrk

Esterno: Poliestere Grey, dark green 100%, Lana 99%, Cotone 1%

€ 1,210.50

high end price

Multiple use/ carryover

€ 840.50

Panelled design, check print, notched Directional lapels, front button fastening, long sleeves, two front flap pockets, buttoned-cuff sleeves, central rear vent, mid-length

€ 266.50

€ 440.00

Rectangular

Dark brown, camel Patchwork, check

Lining: Cupro 100%

€ 982.83

Exterior: Cotton 100%, Wool 100%

€791.00 -

13,605.90

€ 1,150.32

231,477.00

€1,121.48

2,102.73

1,501.95

Lingerie

1,767.00

Final average price

XS - XL

€ 1,035.00

high end price

€ 459.00

Multiple use/ carryover

€ 2,006.00

Directional

€ 1,333.00

Classic lapels, off-centre front zip fastening, long sleeves, front zip fastening pockets, long sleeves, straight hem , central rear vent

€ 775.00

€ 1,630.00

Rectangular

€ 752.50

Patchwork

€ 2,444.50

Grey, red

Lining: Polyester 100%, Cupro 100%

Exterior: Nylon 100%

€ 865.00

13,629.00

€ 736.00

231,870.00

€1,614.50 -

J017051

2,106.30

€1,200.00

Stiched blazer

1,504.50

WFC001W20

1,770.00

Shoes

Palid Coat, collaboration between Carhartt and Junya Watanabe

XS - XL

Jewelry

Outwear

C017051

€ 1,197.50

Outwear

Patchwork Firelli Coat with Application

RTW

Outwear

€ 1,425.50

high end price

€ 835.00

Multiple use/ carryover

€ 1,226.50

Core

€2,119.19

padded panels, notched lapels, front button fastening, long sleeves

€1,277.89

Skirts

Rectangular

Dresses

Solid

Lining: Polyester 100%, Cupro 100%

RTW

Exterior: Nylon 100%, Wool 100%

€ 2,457.50

13,059.20

€ 2,368.50

222,176.00

€ 4,800.00

2,018.24

€ 4,590.00

1,441.60

Max Price

1,696.00

ISSEY MIYAKE

XS - XL

€ 175.00

WFJ011051

SACAI

Light Jacket

€ 147.00

Outwear

€ 531.50

Dark green

Lining: Cupro 100%

€ 1,576.50

high end price

€ 1,510.50

Multiple use/ carryover

€ 570.00

Core

€ 720.00

V-neck, front button fastening, long sleeves

€ 1,270.00

€ 1,275.50

Rectangular

€ 1,225.00

Plaid lining

€ 1,190.00

Grey

€ 945.00

Cotton 100%, Polyester 100%, Wool 82%, Nylon 18%

€ 1,120.00

12,589.50

€745.00

214,185.00

€622.50

1,945.65

Trousers

1,389.75

Shirts

1,635.00

€ 1,939.00

XS - XL

€ 510.00

WFJ020W20

€ 2,545.00

Blazer with contrasting panels

€ 2,306.50

Outwear

€ 1,077.50

Padded panels, notched lapels, front button Corefastening, long sleeves, Multiple knee-length use/ high end price carryover

€ 830.00

€ 1,325.00

Rectangular

€ 2,172.00

Solid

€ 2,725.00

Grey, Red

€764.00

Exterior: Cotton 100%, Nylon 100%, Polyester 100%, Wool 100% Lining: Cupro 100%

€2,063.00

17,763.90

Coats & Jackets

302,217.00

T-shirts & Polos

2,745.33

€ 186.50

1,960.95

€ 630.00

2,307.00

€ 530.00

XS - XL

€ 1,285.00

WFC007000

€ 394.00

Color block coat

€ 915.00

Outwear

€ 465.00

high end price

€ 322.50

Multiple use/ carryover

€ 266.50

khaki green Core wool-blend classic hood concealed front zip fastening double-breasted button fastening long sleeves with zip-fastening pocket front flap pockets

€ 222.00

€477.71

Rectangular

€824.00

Solid

Accessories

Exterior: Acrylic Grey, Green 100%, Nylon 100%, Wool 100% Lining: Polyester 100%, Cupro 100%

Bags

15,153.60

Dramatic

257,808.00

Japan-Spain-Turkey-France

2,341.92

Italy

1,672.80

France AVERAGE PRICE POINTS

1,968.00

France

XS - XL

Japan

Raincoat with hood WFC021051

Japan

Outwear

Made In

high end price

High

Multiple use/ carryover

Dramatic elegance

Navy/grey, nylon/wool, off-centre front Core zip fastening, button fastening, front zip fastening pockets, belted waist tabs, long sleeves, sleeve zip pocket , check pattern

High

Light, functional elegance

Rectangular

High

Check, patchwork

Sporty elegance

Navy, grey

Medium-high

Nylon 100%, Wool 100% Lining: Cupro 100%

Streetwear

14,137.20

High

240,516.00

Extravagant

2,184.84

High

1,560.60

Style

1,836.00

Product offerings Quality

XS - XL

Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Shoes /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Shoes /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Shoes /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Shoes

core price

€ 2,588.50

C002051

Price Attribute

temporary-use/ seasonal

RTW

Patchwork Coat

End Use Attribute

€ 2,330.00

Outwear

Trend Attribute Directional

RTW

High waist, belt loops, wrap design, classic five pockets, tapered design, cropped leg

€ 2,192.00

Short Description

€ 1,180.00

Length

RTW Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos Accessories/ Bags/ Coats & /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Jackets/ T-shirts & Polos /Trousers/ Shirts/ Shoes/ Shoes Overshirts / Shoes / Bags / Lingerie / Jewelry

Silhouette Triangular

RTW

Patterns Solid

Core Products

Colors Blue

€ 50.00

Material Cotton 60%, Linen 40%

€ 5,127.00

Price (RMB) 5,189.80

€ 4,570.00

Price (JPY) 88,294.00

€ 3,990.00

Price (USD) 802.06

€ 2,185.00

Price (GBP) 572.90

COMME DES GARÇONS

Price (EUR) 674.00

€ 90.00

Size Range (EU) XS - XL

MAISON MARGIELA

Style Number WGP204051

€ 394.00

Product Name Loose Jeans

€ 115.00

Product Type Denim

Min Price

Photo

APPENDIX E - Competitors benchmarks

241

APPENDIX F - Interview

APPENDIX G - Merchandising Chart Spring/Summer 2021 Womenswear collection

The team interviewed Japanese native Maki to explore Japanese culture by going straight to the source. Maki’s experience in the fashion industry, working at the Italian textile company, Marzotto, also proved insightful. Q: How do you see trends in Japan? A: In Japan, trends trickle down from magazines and small-scale social media influencers. Currently, girls appear more natural, with less makeup. Less Gal style. Also, this is not a trend, but, generally, Japanese style has always been about baggy style and hiding imperfections as opposed to showing off favorable body parts. Q: Who is your favorite Influencer? @Brenda.official_store. She is very interactive with follows in stories. Q: Do Japanese people prefer Japanese brands or non-Japanese brands? A: It depends on the person, but I feel people prefer Japanese brands, like Uniqlo. For example, out of two fast fashion brands: Gap and Uniqlo, there are 807 Uniqlo stores and 149 Gap stores throughout Japan. The quality of Uniqlo is better, so Japanese people prefer it. Q: What is mono no aware? A: Historically this word refers to the role of the woman in society. In ancient times, women were not to show expression, rather they were to be patient and silent, as this was a sign of beauty. In marriage, her place was behind her husband, supporting him silently because of the belief that there is beauty in unsaid things. Today this word translates to when we see ephemeral things [things that don’t last very long], like the seasons, flowers, people’s lives, and so on. We feel moved by their beauty but with a little sadness. That’s mono no aware. Q: What is yugen? A: Yugen is one of the philosophies of Japanese beauty. It is mysterious and not easy to understand but ultimately about deeper thought, understanding, and elegance. Q: What is wabi-sabi? A: Wabi means the lack of a beautiful surface. Sabi means inner beauty. When we see antique things, they look old, but they have history and this is their beauty. Therefore, when things get older and rusty, we must not waste them, treat them with care and use them longer. Q: What is Noh (能, the form of opera with masks)? A: Noh is one of the Japanese traditional arts which is played on a stage. The actors wear masks called Noh-men. To express feelings, Noh actors tilt their heads and follow the light. Neither I nor my friends have ever attended a Noh play. Q: Discuss the role of the family in Japan? (roles) A: Traditionally, the father makes money to take care of his family, the mother raises the children as she stays at home, the eldest son takes over the family business, and the sister must eventually get married. Recently, this situation has changed: the father also raises the children and even takes paternity leave. Japanese women get married later in life, and children can choose how they want to make their living. Divorce, however, is still taboo. Q: Are there any specific color preferences in Japanese culture? A: The Japanese prefer discrete colors: black, beige, and white are popular. These colors allow you to remain part of the group as you are not standing out with vivid colors. Q: Can you describe the business culture? A: Business relationships are typically long-term relationships, and they are consolidated by going out to drink together. Q: How do you feel about the topic of sustainability? Is it a growing trend in Japan as in the rest of the world? A: Sustainability is not a “trend” in Japan because it is already so ingrained in the culture. However, the Japanese government is always looking to implement more sustainable measures. Last year, they required all retailers to charge for shopping bags in an attempt to make consumers more conscious about buying fast fashion.

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APPENDIX H - Merchandising Chart Fall/Winter 2020 Womenswear collection

244

APPENDIX J - Merchandising Chart Spring/Summer 2021 Menswear collection

245

APPENDIX K - Merchandising Chart Fall/Winter 2020 Menswear collection

246

APPENDIX L - Merchandising comparison

247

APPENDIX L - Book Design & Development Methodology

APPENDIX M - Book Design Mood Board

The design of the book discloses important information about the brand and objectives of the remerchandising strategy. The squared layout represents the desire to balance menswear with womenswear. Thus the book has an equal length and width. The Top, bottom, left, and right margins all have the same spacing. The main font throughout the book is Helvetica LT Std with a bold variation and a custom-designed font called Junya Watanabe. While the font selections are simple, they follow the brand logo and its apparel, designed in Helvetica font. Additionally, this simple font helps highlight the photographs of the apparel, which are the primary part of the brand’s communication strategy. The book’s grid system is 6x6 with diagonal lines. Additionally, the book uses the Junya Watanabe Man logo as an inspiration for proportions. There is a significant difference between the font sizes. The book’s primary colors are black and white, as these are the core colors of Junya Watanabe. Its accent colors are vibrant red and electric blue to represent the womenswear and menswear collections. Other elements include the book’s traditional Japanese, hand-made binding, and transparent pages between the regular pages. The transparent pages take inspiration from the blue, see-through tag of the menswear label and also the multi-layer concept of the remerchandising proposal.

ABCDEFGH IJKLMNOPQ RSTUVWXYZ abcdefghij 248

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