LUSTRE

LUSTRE AUTUMN/WINTER 2012-13

Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors.

Lustre is neither responsible for, nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages.

Lustre cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editors CAROL AQUINO WILLIAM DE MARTIGNY Publisher CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL Project Coordinator ANDREW TUCKER Styling CAROL AQUINO WILLIAM DE MARTIGNY Graphic Design MONIQUE REGALADO Writers EMILY ALEXANDRA CAROL AQUINO WILLIAM DE MARTIGNY ANN FRIEDMAN JESSICA GRAHAM STEPHEN K. LEE MEGAN MCINTYRE PEDRO SAFFI ALEXANDRA SUHNER ISENBERG Proofreading WILLIAM DE MARTIGNY SARAH BOOTH Photographers ANTONIS DELTA CAROL AQUINO Illustrator PAULO MARCELO “OZ” REZENDE

EDITORIAL

WELCOME TO LUSTRE

D

ear Reader, it is with a profound sense of achievement that we address you from the dizzying heights of the inaugural edition of LUSTRE; the magazine designed solely with you in mind. This is a magazine about beauty, elegance and intelligence, and enjoying these three ideals wholeheartedly. However, if that sounds like a demanding standard to maintain – it is also a magazine about having fun.

We live in a world of globalisation and standardisation. Throughout society, products and consumer habits are looking more and more alike with mass media and the internet increasingly dictating our thinking. We feel that the individual needs to find her own space and be provided with the opportunity to express her-self freely, and in style.

Clothing says a lot about its owner. It should never be chosen merely to have an imposing presence nor on account of its being the closest thing to hand in the morning. One should choose it to reflect oneself – choice is the real expression of luxury; Luxury in its most intimate form.

The world is undergoing an unprecedented period of uncertainty and change, but don’t worry, we are not going to talk about the economic crisis. So much has already been said that we feel there is not much more we could add, other than we will simply have to get through it won’t we?

However, one might ask in times of financial market chaos and industry slowdown, whether luxury items are still relevant. Our philosophy is simple: whatever the circumstances there should always be a little room for pleasure and reward for your hard work. Putting on an extraordinary piece of clothing, such as a Christian Dior Couture winter coat is certainly a memorable moment, and one which will not be repeated every season.

Your style is your own; we do not look to preach, merely to suggest – this said, if we cannot tempt your eye with anything on our pages, then you are a stronger person than either of ourselves.

We have taken much pleasure and satisfaction throughout the creation of this magazine, and we look forward to many more years of the same, hoping to become an indispensable part of your fashionable lifestyle.

We shall say nothing more, except welcome.

Carol Aquino & William De Martigny

LUSTRE 25 Maddox Street Mayfair London W1S 7PD Phone: +44 (0) 20 7251 8214 www.lustre.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback?

Let us know at www.lustre.com Read Lustre on your iPad: www.lustre.com/ipad Lustre is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.

We wanted to share with you the MUSIC that inspired us throughout the creation of LUSTRE. Using your smartphone, scan this QR Code and swing along with us.

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CONTENTS 08 SPOTLIGHT ON

RITA LEE 14 SHOPPING

34 LIFEST YLE

DON’T YOU WISH?

GOD DAUGHTER

18 STREET ST YLE

37 THE HOLLY WOOD INTERVIEW

THE WORD ON THE STREET 25 PROFILE

TRULY, MADLY, KYLIE

HUGH JACKMAN 42 MICHELLE OBAMA

AMERICA’S FIRST LADY

91 ILLUSTR ATION

COSTUMES FOR LIFE

46 THE LUSTRE CAMPAIGN

102 BEAUT Y

30 A MAN’S VIEW

OXFAM, UNICEF AND US

IF YOU MUST KNOW

60 EDITORIAL

BEAUTY

UNBROKEN THREAD 80 THE FASHION INTERVIEW

CATWALK SPOTLIGHT

128 PERFUME

NUIT NOIR 139 DELICIOUS

RAFAEL COSTA E SILVA 146 LUSTRE REVIEWS

AMERICAN EATERIES 02/LUSTre

CONTRIBUTORS

THE DREAM TEAM Illu st rat ion s by Paulo Marcelo “OZ” Rezende

Pedro SAFFI Emilia ALEXANDRA

Ann FRIEDMAN

Dr. Saffi is a finance lecturer at the University of Cambridge’s Judge Business School.

When not doing his own arcane research he enjoys keeping an eye open for interesting Is a freelance journalist based in London things out there. When he finds them, and Ann Friedman is an editor and writer. and Ravello, Italy. Though her pen will they are fashion related, his wife usually Formerly the executive editor of GOOD, she’s now hard at work on a crowd-funded turn itself willingly to most topics, her par- gets happy. ticular interests lie in travel and lifestyle. magazine called Tomorrow and is a politics Her legendary tenacity regarding securing columnist for NYmag.com. She curates the a good story undoubtedly stems from her work of women journalists at LadyJournos, makes hand-drawn pie charts for The father’s northern roots, but her consistent Hairpin, and dispenses animated advice at success is testament to her habit of arranging most interviews around her mother’s the Columbia Journalism Review. In July 2012, CJR named her one of 20 women to Italian cuisine. Her interest in fashion has watch. But not, like, in a stalkery way. been “intermittent yet ever-present until support underwear arrived in my life. Now Ann grew up in Iowa, went to school at the University of Missouri-Columbia, and has I have no reason to stop myself.” since ping-ponged between America’s east Paulo Marcelo “Oz” studied architec- and west coasts. She prefers the west, in ture in Brazil and has worked in Paris case you are curious.” as a draughtsman and maquette-maker for Guerin & Pedroza Architects. While anxiously awaiting his visa to go back to France, he is indulging in his greatest passions: illustrations and cartoons, and his ‘ doodles’ have been on several magazines, websites, murals for stores, events and set design.

Oz REZENDE

Jessica GRAHAM

A self-proclaimed cosmetic junkie, Jessica is a 30 year old Chef who knows too much about make-up and beauty rituals for someone who supposedly cooks for a living.

Originally from Brazil she spent most of her twenties in Florida and is now enjoying life as a newly-wed with her British hubby in Bristol.

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Antonis DELTA

Monique REGALADO Is a graphic designer from Manila but is currently pursuing her postgraduate studies at the University Of The Arts in London. Her work is minimal-chic and discreet but fortright at the same time whilst still prioritizing the functional aspect of any design brief. Food and sleep obsessed/deprived, she finds herself frolicking around the food markets in london and feasting on gastronomic delights. (cargocollective. com/moniqueregalado).

Originally from Greece, Antonis always assumed he wanted to be a doctor – because that’s what his father told him to be, but his creative vein spoke more loudly.

Holding an MA in Fashion Photography from the London College of Fashion, having already been the subject of three exhibitions and featured in several publications, Antonis Delta is the one to watch (www.antonisdelta.com).

SPOTLIGHT

RITA LEE Text by Carol Aquino. Images courtesy of Rede Record, Grupo Abril and T V Tupi

You may have not heard of Rita Lee Jones before – and you can definitely be excused for that. Despite having a name that could be easily mistaken for a character from the depths of Lancashire, she’s the former lead singer of seminal rock band Os Mutantes, internationally acknowledged as one of the greatest undiscovered bands of the late 1960s. Rita Lee, the Queen of Rock, is a big deal. With an phenomenally successful solo career spanning over 30 years, album sales upwards of 60 million worldwide and tour engagements for the next 5 years, it’s time we started talking about Rita Lee.

traditional debutante’s coming out party, she insisted on receiving a drum kit. When only 19 years old Rita set up a band with a couple of friends who introduced her to brothers Arnaldo and Sergio Baptista, and shortly after Os Mutantes was born.

The sound was fresh and different in comparison with the popular music in Brazil at the time, combining influences from acts like The Beatles, Jimi Hendrix and Sly & the Family Stone, with Brazilian sounds such as Bossa Nova, Samba and other regional tunes.

The band was also heavily influenced by the cultural artistic legacy of the modernist moveBorn and raised in Brazil, fluent in Spanish, ment, and they firmly believed in expression French and Italian, as well as her native Por- not only through music, but also through tuguese and the English that her parents their wardrobes, dressing in exquisite, eccenspoke at home, she was (and would argue still tric costumes for performances. is) an enfant terrible by nature. The daughter of a dentist and an amateur female pianist, she Because of their avant-garde perspective, never took music lessons and in place of a many American and European contemporary

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Below: Rita Lee throughout the years, her beginnings in ‘Os Mutantes’ and the movie ‘Tropicalia’.

bands have cited Os Mutantes as a major influence; Kurt Cobain (the deceased Nirvana frontman) publicly requested a reunion tour from the trio in 1993, even writing a letter to Arnaldo Baptista; Indie singer Beck paid tribute to the group with his single ‘Tropicália’ from the album Mutations and Talking Heads front man David Byrne has worked to publish and promote the group’s music through his Luaka Bop label.

And the Queen of Rock reigneth still, in the form of Tropicália, a documentary co-produced by Brazilian and British music enthusiasts recounting the late 1960s musical and artistic movement of the same name. A political campaign, born out of the oppressive military dictatorship that had seized Brazil, it resulted in exile for a number of activists – to London.

The exiles suffered from the cold, homesickness, and in more than one case, an inability

to digest warm beer. However, scenes from the iconic 1969 Isle of Wight festival, when these Tropicalistas performed on stage to a crowd of approximately 200 thousand people suggest that there were some good times to be had.

The documentaries innovative art direction perfectly encapsulates what the movement was about, through a curiously engaging collage aesthetic and pop art colours. It’s a must-see for music lovers and those who wish to spend some time back in the late 60s and early 70s when we all had a 24 inch waist and the world was no bigger than the ground floor of Barbara Hulanicki’s ‘Biba’ on Kensignton High Street.

The documentary is being screened at several film festivals throughout Europe, and will launch in the UK in the beginning of December.

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S W E N

Ottolenghi in one click Ottolenghi’s recipes are famous for being utterly delicious and using unusual ingredients. The London restaurant, now with four locations, has launched an online shop after culinary-minded customers revealed they struggled to find ingredients locally. The webstore allows shoppers to buy Ottolenghi products, hard-to-find ingredients and signed cookery books – a great present for Christmas. The online range includes freshly baked goods such as cookies and grissini, as well as pantry staples such as spices and blends. If deliveries contain baked goods, not to worry: the company promises to dispatch on the next baking day to ensure the utmost freshness. Check it at http:// webstore.ottolenghi.co.uk.

LONDON IN A FRAME This huge coffee table book is an oblique glimpse - or rather wide-angle view - into the photo archives of a city which has been so intensely photographed from every angle and elevation in the last 100 or so years. Featuring some of the world’s most famous photographers including Cecil Beaton, David Bailey and Mario Testino, London: Portrait of a City (Taschen, £44.99) captures the eye-catching cool of the Big Smoke, from the recent 2012 Olympics and Hoxton hipsters to fashions past from the 30s or the 60s. So grab a cup of tea and curl up with a front-row seat to the hottest style ticket in town...

Little girls’ dreams come true We’re pretty sure you have been waiting for this bit of news for almost all of your life. Harrods has commissioned designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Donatella Versace and Elie Saab to re-imagine the iconic Disney princesses’ dresses.

The results are, of course, magical, with Saab’s Aurora (Sleeping Beauty) a vision in embellished blush ruffles, Versace’s Cinderella a contemporary idol in a golden gown adorned with signature Medusa motifs, and de la Renta’s Snow White an ethereal bejewelled beauty. The display coincides with a 7,000 square-foot Disney Princess pop-up boutique on the fourth floor of the store.

The Harrods Christmas windows will be unveiled on November 1.

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S W E N

Coco in Tartan

The Iron-ic Queen The Queen’s starring role in the Olympic Opening Ceremony was all her own idea. According to screenwriter Frank Cottrell Boyce, who worked alongside Danny Boyle on the event, the monarch volunteered to take part after reading the proposed script.

“We came up with it as a comic idea and expected an actress to take the role of Her Majesty,” said Cottrell Boyce. “We submitted our plans to the palace and asked if it was alright to show the Queen jumping out of a helicopter. We got a letter back the next day saying: ‘This is wonderful and the Queen is available for filming on the following day’. We had one meeting with the Queen and we showed her the story board with the helicopter,” he continued. “Her only comment was: ‘You have a Westland Scout going under Tower Bridge. It really won’t fit. You will need a Westland Aqusta, that will do the job.’” And people still insist on trying to point royals as dull and humourless…

VINTAGE COUTURE Can there be anything more desirable than vintage couture? Christie’s is running a series of auctions of 20th century pieces, starting on 29 November with 1930s dresses from actor Catalina Bárcena’s wardrobe. Later auctions include Hèrmes Kelly bags, Dior New Look and Jean Patou dresses. For more information, visit Christie’s at http://www.christies.com/ or 8 King St, London SW1 (020 7839 9060).

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Chanel will host its next Metier d’Arts show in Linlithgow Palace in Scotland on December 4. The majestic 15th Century ruined castle, which overlooks a lake and a park, is situated 24 miles west of Edinburgh and was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and King James V. The historic site was chosen by Karl Lagerfeld as part of his on-going fascination with Scotland’s heritage. Chanel recently acquired cashmere company Barrie Knitwear, which is based in Hawick on the Scottish borders, saving 176 jobs in the process. The show, which is traditionally attended by the toast of the fashion world, is set to be Lagerfeld’s most spectacular to date.

don’t you wish you’d worn?

Forgive the pun, but necks are the Next Big Thing. The vampire craze which dawned on us last year has infiltrated the fashion-pack's minds, and what has been a forgotten style-point is now a hot topic for embellishment. Where previously ignominiously ignored, fashion has finally accepted this new erogenous zone and now necks are the right spot to watch. No longer hidden away under voluminous layers of coat, scarf and collar, it's time to properly decorate and celebrate our most underused asset.

£55, TOPSHOP

£490, L ANVIN

£ 9 2 5 , K E N N E T H J AY L A N E

£405, TA B I T H A S I M M O N S

£49, ASOS

£325, ERICKSON BEAMON

STATEMENT NECKwear

£775, REPOSSI £305, TOM BINNS

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£ 410 , I S A B E L M A R A N T

£230, AQUASCUTUM

JUMPERS & collared shirts £530, STELL A MCCARTNEY

£16 0 , M I C H A E L KO R S

Think about bold necklaces and striking collars peeping out of exquisite jumpers and shirts.

Polo-necks are also a good alternative, providing a blank canvas to expertly highlight your statement neckwear. LUSTRE has selected the best on offer to sink your teeth into.

£ 2 3 0 , C O R T O M O LT E D O

£65, OASIS

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THE WORD ON THE STREET Four ladies caught our eye on account of their gorgeous dress sense. They were kind enough to stop for a photo and quick chat about their style secrets.

1. Favourite brands 2. Fail-safe look 3. An accessory you can't live without 4. A style icon 5. Little style secret

Anna Maria, architect.

1. Acne, COS, Marni and recently, very fond of Prada 2. Definitely a statement coat!

3. My Patek Phillipe.

4. Jil Sander 5. “Keep elegance at the forefront. You cannot be in competition with a girl

who's 18. You have to be the best in your category�.

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THE WORD ON THE STREET

1. Favourite brands 2. Fail-safe look 3. An accessory you can't live without 4. A style icon 5. Little style secret

ROCIO, CHEF.

1. Actually, I prefer vintage but I can't resist Zara 2. Anything striped 3. A hair tie.

4. Brigitte Bardot 5.

“Don't buy anything useful. A black cardigan is not what you want to put on

in the morning. In your 50s you must go for things you fall in love with”.

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THE WORD ON THE STREET

1. Favourite brands 2. Fail-safe look 3. An accessory you can't live without 4. A style icon 5. Little style secret

KATE, ESTATE AGENT.

1. Reiss, Mulberry, Chloé 2.

50s style dresses, a fuller skirt 3. My mobile phone.

4. Grace Kelly 5.

“I can't be bothered to stay on trend all the time. I prefer to stick to time

less elegance with a twist”.

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THE WORD ON THE STREET

1. Favourite brands 2. Fail-safe look 3. An accessory you can't live without 4. A style icon 5. Little style secret

MI SUN, PHOTOGRAPHER.

1. All the minimalists, really 2. Trousers.

3. Socks.

4. My friend Yura Do. 5.

“The last thing you want is to look safe”.

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Truly, Madly, Kylie: 25 Years At The Top Oh Kylie – Has it really been 25 years? Forever young and forever current, Kylie has seamlessly followed the evolution of music and fashion without ever being anything but herself, which is why we cannot help but love her, in spite of looking that good in those hot pants. Text by William De Mart igny

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A MAN’S VIEW

Well, If You Must Know…

What is it that goes on inside men’s heads? Nothing apparently, according to Mr M – Lustre’s fearlessly straight talking man-about-the-magazine…

Text by William De Mart igny

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“What are you thinking?” This is the one question (aside from “Does this dress make my hips/bum/boobs look big?”) that makes otherwise stoic men weep with despair. It can be asked anywhere, under any circumstances: in bed, on the bus, in-between the starter and the main course or in the hospital while you’re recovering from a concussion. How can you possibly answer this ever-present query in a way that will satisfy your spouse/girlfriend/significant other?

By the time you have had time to digest the infamous question, whatever was really in your mind has completely vanished, and instead you find yourself thinking of everything you’re not supposed to be thinking about, right at that very moment. The gorgeous neighbour who’s young enough to be your sister? (Who are we fooling - young enough to be your daughter’s younger friend). Or perhaps the day you phoned to let your significant other know you were staying late at work when, in fact, you went for a few pints with friends? The new lawn mower that cost you four times as much as you said it would? The three helpings of Christmas pudding you surreptitiously enjoyed at last year’s celebrations? That hideous cardigan you threw to the dog to be destroyed? The list is endless. And none of them you can actually use as a possible, plausible subject for explaining away your thoughtful silence.

But what suggestions can we offer for getting away with this? Pretend you haven’t heard her right. “What am I drinking? Oh, just the usual, three fingers of gin, a whisper of tonic and a hunk of lime I fished out from the back of the fridge. Would you like to have one too?” Other ideas: “Why am I sinking?” (This one only works in a bathtub or on a boat), “What am I linking?” (If you’re at the computer coding HTML) or “Why am I stinking?” (Should you have returned from cleaning the gutters).

Or maybe you can become philosophical; “That raises an interesting issue. By ‘thinking,’ are you referring to the instantiation of chemical patterns in my brain at the very moment you asked that question? If so, how can I possibly

comment on a mental state that has already transpired, and has since been replaced by the physical instantiation provoked by your question in the first place? Darling? Darling? Where are you going?”

I’ve never tried this one, but you can try to conjure a “political stigma”. “What am I thinking? Well, if you must know, I was wondering how the pan-Islamic pressures of the Middle East ‘street’ will impact the democratization process in Iraq, and how this will impinge on our future negotiations with so-called rogue states such as North Korea and Iran. Do you have any views on this, Darling? Fine, perhaps later?”

Try and be overtly emotional, (they tell you this is what they always wanted you to be, yet I’m sure it isn’t) So how about, “Oh, gosh, where can I start! I was just thinking about how vulnerable I’ve been feeling lately, and that thing my boss said to me the other day, and did I mention that little kid who looked at me oddly as I was on my way to work this morning? Don’t I have feelings, too? Don’t I want to run and jump and skip with the butterflies rather than waste my life in a boring office job? Hmmm, why are you holding that pillow over your head?”

If none of these can help you, I can suggest telling the truth. “Well, if you must know, I was thinking about what I said the other day when you tried on that dress. If as you frequently tell me, a relationship is based on honesty, as a matter of fact, it did make your hips look big. Now don’t get all pouty, you’re the one who asked. Darling, how did you get that gun?”

The truth is: there is no answer. There is absolutely no answer. Men are hard-wired to think straightforwardly; we think what we want for dinner, we think the roof insulation may need replacing or perhaps we are thinking about a pretty face we saw at the gym. We’re not deep, we’re not conflictive, we’re not layers of emotions waiting to be explored and most of the time, to be honest, we’re not thinking about anything.

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LIFEST YLE

GOD DAUGHTER Emilia Alexandra has never been one to shy away from a challenge, but the prospect of a day on Oxford Street with her teenage God-daughter pushed our columnist to the edge. How did she recover? “I threw the girl on the tube and taxied to Partridges Food Market on the Kings Road”. Here, she looks at the relationship that drove her to the delicatessen counter.

Text by Emilia Alexandra . Illu st rat ion s by Paulo Marcelo “Oz” Rezende All things go round in circles; Fashion is famous for it, art denies it, and music abuses it.

Relationships also take many shapes. They too can go round in circles, go backwards, or sometimes, rather scarily, zigzag.

This feels particularly apt when considering the somewhat complex relationship I have with my 16 year old God-daughter. Having always considered myself a good God parent (ignoring her mother’s dietary requests, remembering her birthday with more than just a well meant card, and not embarrassing her backstage after her debut as Mary at the school nativity), I have always seemed to fail her in the sartorial department.

Fashion and clothes, the one area where we should be able to bond, has always been a minefield for the both of us.

She refused to wear the Petit Bateau tops I bought her as an infant, or the French Sole pumps that I secretly wanted myself. Her mother apologised profusely when she turned up to lunch wearing dungarees and the ubiquitous “currant boyfriend’s over size jumper”, rather than the Ralph Lauren dress I had laboriously selected over a period of rather draining shopping trips.

However, her refusal to embrace the wardrobe I threw in her way was no one-sided thing. She would look at me in amazement as I picked her up from school in skinny, purple patterned trousers, her eyes widening with a mixture of confusion and embarrassment. She winces at my tangerine orange tote and cuts my paisley blazers to shreds with a single disdainful glance (in the same way my mother cooled my burning adolescent loves with a sneer.)

mantra so beloved by women-of-a-certain-age. I never thought I would get through to her, but then one day recently, we both experienced something of a revelation.

It happened over lunch when I was musing over an article I had yet to finish and she was languorously flicking through one of the many low brow novels that seem to litter my flat (one hand in the book, the other in a box of fearfully expensive chocolates I had bought for myself as a treat). Out of the blue she asked if I’d like to go shopping with her. My stunned face must have said it all as she laughed and explained it was only for a school event as she was part of the group welcoming new 6th form pupils.

Once over the shock, I was secretly thrilled and we set out a list of potential shops that she would like to visit. Fast forward a week later and I am sitting in Topshop’s dressing room under a pile of rejected dresses, waiting for her to reveal herself in yet another body-con style dress which was about all she would try on, albeit in a variety of neon bright colours. Expecting this one to be much the same as the others – too short, too boring, too acid bright, I was amazed tohave standing before me, a vision in cobalt blue.

With an updated yet unmistakably 1950’s, Dior-esqe edge, it was perfect. The colour was practically revolutionary for her and the simplicity of cut completely out of her, or rather her friend’s, comfort zone. I could barely maintain my joy but still waited for the inevitable endless list of problems.

But there were none. She looked down, looked back up at me and the smallest of smiles crept onto her face, murmuring rather quietly, “I thought you’d like it.”

Nodding lightly, I whisked her out of it and skipped to the till.

Her fashion glass-ceiling had finally been smashed and I could see us strolling down high-streets together, partners in fashion crime weighed down by bags. My bubble was slightly blown on seeing the cost of the dress and the shoes she insisted in pairing it with. They were, quite rightly, more than her mother would have allowed in My conviction is that fashion should be fun; there is no need to every respect. So an early God-mother follow the two colour minimum or the matching “handbag to shoe” birthday present and a disapproving silence were agreed on – after all; some relationships never do change.

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T H E H O L LY W O O D I N T E R V I E W

HUGH JACKMAN Hugh Jackman, who didn’t bat an eyelid when asked to host the Oscars before a live television audience of a billion, is waiting to see how the world reacts to his latest film and, he admits, he’s nervous. Imag ined by Emilia Alexandra . Images by G et t y & A F P.

Anticipating the arrival of Hugh Jackman in an inconspicuous East London café is a rather odd and dare I say it, underwhelming experience. This is not how I had imagined this happening, but then, as I wait and consider my position, it seems like the perfect place to be meeting one of Australia’s biggest and yet most unassuming exports.

Known for being laid back, debilitatingly handsome and rather self-deprecating, Jackman is not one to stand on ceremony.

Indeed when he arrives, I might as well be meeting an old friend, albeit one that I’ve always had a secret crush on.

Standing at just over 6 feet and 2 inches of finely honed “Man”, he does not disappoint. Lean and dressed casually in his discreet uniform of navy shirt and jeans, Jackman is indeed as much a fantasy in the flesh as he is on the screen.

Casually ignoring the stares and inevitable mutterings he is quiet, business like and self-assured. Ordering “strong tea – you guys in London really know how to make it good”, he leans forward expectantly and squares me in the eye.

As I desperately try to assume something, anything resembling presence of mind and to maintain a modicum of professionalism, I see Jackman beginning to giggle… I hope we have started as we mean to go on.

Jackman, who’s CV is as diverse as it is impressive, began life in musical theatre and it seems odd that he has yet to appear in a musical-film, as it were. That is, until now as he is in town to promote his new film Les Misérables. Directed by Tom Hooper of The King’s Speech fame, and co-starring Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway and upcoming Brit, Eddie Redmayne, they are taking a big risk in turning one of the best loved stage musicals and turning it into a Hollywood blockbuster.

We all know, given Tinseltown’s previous attempts at the musical genre, ahem, Phantom of the Opera? This can only go one of two ways surely? Roaring success or anemic flop. Jackman’s confidence does not waver, but he pauses before replying, and his response is measured, “I think that the emphasis [in past attempts] was focused more on the star than their ability. By which I mean it takes a particular kind of talent to succeed in musical theatre, which is possibly something the directors have overlooked previously, in favor of the big name.” Of course, this has been a

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“The thing is, these musicals have a cult following bordering on madness, but quite rightly so, they are fantastic – and hearing well-loved songs not being done justice does raise some peoples blood pressure” LUSTRE/37

D A D A B O U T T O W N : J A C K M A N W I T H H I S C H I L D R E N I N S Y D N E Y.

recurrent issue raised by the critics – however famous you are, however many Oscar nominations you have received, if you can’t sing, you can’t sing.

He smiles again, “The thing is, these musicals have a cult following bordering on madness, but quite rightly so, they are fantastic – and hearing well-loved songs not being done justice does raise some peoples blood pressure – am I anxious? Hell yes! What kind of person wouldn’t be?”

Playing Jean Valjean, Jackman is relishing the opportunity of taking this celebrated character and bringing him to the big screen, and is especially pleased to have had this opportunity to bring his own interpretation to the table, as in an unprecedented move all the music in the film has been recorded live. “The idea of singing live is daunting, but what it gives you is this freedom; freedom is something all actors appreciate”, but Jackman seems especially grateful for the spontaneity that Hooper encouraged on set, “I could take a little break, I could move on, I could speed it up, I could slow it down, which means I just have to worry

about acting it”. His enthusiasm is intense and infectious, and by the time our bacon sandwiches have arrived (he insisted, I caved) he’s explaining the importance of Hooper’s style of directing: “for something like Les Misérables, it has to feel real, it has to feel immediate”, something for which Hollywood is not renowned.

Jackman’s passion for all things singing and dancing wasn’t always as easy for him as it is now. As a teenager, his brothers were unsurprisingly antagonistic, calling him a “sissie and a couple of other words I won’t mention.” It is a brief allusion to a subject he is understandably reticent about approaching, namely the recurrent rumours surrounding his sexuality. Jackman has been dogged for years by rumors that he’s in the closet. Unsurprisingly it is a contentious issue, seeing as though it has been the subject of debate ever since he landed in the public eye, “for 6 years, I kind of let it go.” He is quiet, and I am beginning to assume the interview is over – but suddenly he says , “It’s hardest for my wife, she’s told me the most infuriating times are in the ladies

“I remember when I was about 20 my brother apologized for what he called me in that moment, and so what do I care what the gossip rags say? As long as those who matter know the truth, I don’t care” H U G H A N D H I S W I F E , D E B O R R A - L E E AT T H E 2 0 11 O S C A R S .

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bathroom because all she hears is: ‘Is he or isn’t he gay? Oh, who cares? I’m sure he is’. She used to face up to them - and there would be silence until someone said: ‘I think that’s his wife.’”

I don’t think to stop him; this does not sound like a standard press office response to quash silly stories, but genuine frustration at being thought a liar. “I remember when I was about 20 my brother apologized for what he called me in that moment, and so what do I care what the gossip rags say? As long as those who matter know the truth, I don’t care.” Though there is no trace of bitterness, only resignation in his voice, his success in spite of the malicious rumours must surely taste that little bit sweeter.

It was through acting that he met his wife of 16 years, Deborra-Lee Furness who is 13 years his senior, on the Australian TV show Corelli, and it is clear that family life trumps career. The subject of family is a happy one, though it is evident that being away from home is difficult.

His two children, Oscar Maximillian, and Ava Eliot were adopted after Furness suffered two miscarriages and though he has no wish to uproot his family from life in Sydney, he does wish he could “just pick them up and take them with me whenever and wherever”.

His enthusiasm for his day job is surprisingly endearing; this is a man who knows his future could have gone a lot differently. His acting career, he explains, would simply not have happened if it wasn’t for the unstinting support from his family. It’s not like Jackman was an overnight sensation and there were years of real struggle.

Even now, Jackman has the reputation of being a stand in man; stepping into parts vacated by the number one choices, most recently replacing his more bankable fellow Aussie, Russell Crowe in Australia.

Now very much confident in his leading man status, Jackman is on a role and Les Misérables is a culmination of all that he loves about his work. It’s an allsinging, all-dancing, emotional rollercoaster, and Jackman? He’s chewing his bacon sandwich and looking amazed at how it’s all turned out.

america’s first lady michelle obama The Power behind the President – yes, this is the revolution that is Mrs Michelle Obama. Seen shaking up Middle America’s shopping habits for over 4 years now, Michelle has also turned out to be a solid investment on Wall Street too. Pedro Saffi explains…

Images by Reuters, A F P and Press A ssociat ion

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Had Marilyn Monroe experienced a change of heart, hung up the little white dress and moved into advertising, diamonds would not have stood a chance. Rather than purring over rocks, it would have been the far less glamorous, albeit exceedingly lucrative cash cow that is Celebrity which would have had those legendary curves heaving. For it is an undeniable truth: “Celebrities are a brand’s best friend“.

David Yermack, Finance professor from New York University has written a study about Michelle Obama, considered American royalty by many, on just this topic. Professor Yermack considers what happens to the share price of apparel companies when Mrs Obama wears designer outfits at public events. His findings reveal that stock prices of a designer’s parent company rise significantly in the week after the First Lady is spotted wearing one of its items, even after the most routine of events. Astonishingly during 2009, her public appearances led to immediate gains of around $5billion dollars for various clothiers.

An interesting example is what happened when she was interviewed in October 2008 by U.S. talk-show host Jay Leno, a week before Election Day. The candidate’s wives wardrobes had become a subject of intense scrutiny, and Mr Leno asked Mrs. Obama about the cost of the outfit she was wearing that day. She replied: “Actually, this is a J. Crew ensemble. Ladies, we know J. Crew. You can get some good stuff online!” The effect on J. Crew’s Group Inc.’s was immediate. Its share price immediately went up by 8% the very next day, and had risen 25% by the end of the week. By December 2009 it was up by 175%, a gain of about $1.8billion to its shareholders. Perhaps also, Michelle’s choice of designers and products appear particularly credible to the public because of the absence of financial conflicts of interest. Unlike the typical paid celebrity endorsement, Mrs. Obama does not receive any form of remuneration for choosing a particular item. She wears what she likes and her integrity appeals to the American consumer.

Professor Yermack’s study analyzed information acquired from the variety of Internet blogs that track Mrs Obama’s appearances, and the type of event attended. For each of the 189 public appearances studied in the paper, there is a record of the designer of her clothing and, where applicable, information about her shoes, jewelry, and accessories.

The final list of public companies used by Mrs Obama vary; from high-street names like The Gap and Urban Outfitters to luxury ones within the LVMH stable.

In today’s competitive environment, brands have to use anything they can to stand out from the competition. Celebrity endorsements have been around from as early as 1760, when Josiah Wedgwood – founder of the Wedgewood pottery and chinaware brand – used royal commendations to promote his business. In a similar vein, Queen Victoria’s fondness for cocoa led to Cadbury’s chocolate being granted a Royal Warrant in 1854, something which has continued to be part of the company’s marketing ever since, along with the unmistakable use of Royal Purple.

“Celebrities are a brand’s best friend” Ever since these imperial beginnings, companies have used actors, singers, athletes and other high profile personalities to promote their brands, with an estimated 20% of all television ads featuring “famous” faces. But how can firms be sure that this strategy even works in the first place?

If celebrity endorsements lead to bigger profits then they should surely be reflected in the company’s stock price.

C H A M P I O N I N G H O M E G R O W N TA L E N T: M I C H E L L E O B A M A I N R A L P H L A U R E N , M A R I A P I N T O , T R A C Y R E E S E A N D J . C R E W .

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Interestingly, the author repeats the study with Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, the wife of the former French President, Nicholas Sarkozy. A former model, her fashion choices were followed exhaustively all over the Internet and the findings indicated that she wore Dior outfits to most public occasions. In her case, Professor Yermack does not find any significant movement within Dior’s stock price when analyzed in conjunction with Ms Bruni’s appearances.

Even after her joint appearance with Michelle Obama on a visit to Buckingham Palace in March 2008. This is most likely a result of her well-known preference for the brand and the considerable cost per garment.

Any additional sightings of her wearing Dior were already expected by investors, but in the years following her marriage to Nicolas Sarkozy in February 2008, Dior’s stock price has risen incrementally by 20% in spite of the French stock market index dropping by 43%.

A classic example is that of Tiger Wood’s and the revelations surrounding his extra-marital affairs in November 2009. During the two weeks between the car crash that ignited the scandal and the day that Mr. Wood’s announced an indefinite leave from golf (he resumed his career a year later), it is estimated his sponsor’s lost between $5 and $12 billion dollars.

When properly used, celebrity endorsements can help to generate a buzz about a brand, increasing customer awareness and thus expanding its potential consumer base.

However they do not guarantee extra profits for the owners of those brands. The high fees involved in many endorsement deals combined with the risks of the celebrities being involved in scandals should make everyone think twice before writing a large, and non-refundable cheque.

Of course, a danger faced by companies using celebrity endorsements is the unpredictable and considerable negative consequences whenever one of the aforementioned celebrities is embroiled in controversy.

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THE LUSTRE CAMPAIGN

In an unprecedented move, LUSTRE has joined forces with both Oxfam and UNICEF in an effort to help bring about the end of children’s suffering throughout the world. Text by William De Martigny The LUSTRE team strongly believes in the power of partnerships and collaborative efforts as a means to righting a wrong in the world. However, in order to make a difference it is not enough that we just talk about the issues that concern us, but that we are driven to do something to help.

With this in mind, we are proud to announce our first charitable campaign, and with it, a unique opportunity for us to provide help in situations where there is little hope. And as always, if we are going to do something, then we are going to do it properly.

When we first approached the juggernauts that are Oxfam and UNICEF – arguably two of the pre-eminent international children’s charities, we thought we were embarking on a long and circuitous journey of red-tape and unanswered emails.

For charities working with multi-national corporations on behalf of the world’s children, why would they even give us the time of day?

But when something is worth fighting for, you fight all the way. Children are not just the future – they are our responsibility here and now, and however small we seemed in comparison with the corporate sector, this was a cause we were not going to give up.

Children, both home and abroad, are vulnerable - this doesn’t need spelling out, and many will be exposed to violence, exploitation and abuse, each with their own nauseating characteristics. If we could help prevent this, we were going to make our voices heard; we were going to do it. And we were victorious. Since receiving confirmation of our partnerships, we have been working closely with both charities on a number of issues – particularly strengthening child nutrition and protection systems.

Changes in legislation, policies and social norms can improve the lives of children in multiple ways and the matters discussed during these meetings have been upsetting and yet illuminating. Despite the economic downturn we are committed to giving as much as we can and we ask you to join us in our campaign.

It is impossible to address every issue affecting the survival of children throughout the world. Who are we to prioritise safety over healthcare, nutrition over education? The feeling of responsibility is overwhelming, but when the subject of child trafficking was brought to our attention, we knew that this was an issue where we could make an impact. And so, together with UNICEF and Oxfam, let’s do something about this.

The issue of child trafficking in Central Asia is a subject barely recognised by the rest of the world. Only a few cases of child trafficking or sale are officially registered in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, but the figures speak differently with as many as 2 million children being forced into cheap labour practises each year. Kidnapped and then formed into working units, these children are made to follow a hazardous migration around Central Asia – going to wherever their child-labour is required.

Of course this won’t just stop by throwing money at it. Blanket interventions that centre on police raids, removal and institutionalization of children at risk have been found to enhance vulnerability rather than resiliency in the face of abuse.

How can a child return to normality after years of neglect? Children whose formative years have been spent neglected, malnourished and de-humanised? It is not just a case of rescue and retreat, but a process that will take decades – and then?

How can we know we have even skimmed the surface?

The fact is, we never will, but neither will our charities. We don’t fully know how deep this issue runs nor long this will take, but together we can make a difference to the lives of these children. And whether it is twenty or twenty thousand, does it matter? Every life counts. Here at LUSTRE we are in it for the long run – are you?

For information regarding donating, getting involved or just to find out more, please see our campaign page at www.lustre/oxfam.unicefcampaign.co.uk 46/LUSTRE

For more information, please contact: Mervyn Fletcher, UNICEF Geneva Tel + 41 22 909 5433, mfletcher@unicef.org LUSTRE/47

FA S H I O N C U P B OA R D

HELLO ALEXANDRA Esteemed fashion journalist and former Lanvin muse, Alexandra Suhner Isenberg, has been a feature of the front row for 30 years. Here she interrupts her busy schedule for to resolve the issues we have with the fashion industry. In her inaugural column, our front row critic explains the need for incisive catwalk commentary, but reminds us that we can make our opinions count too. Images by G et t y & A F P

F R O M L E F T T O R I G H T: D I O R , G I O R G I O A R M A N I A N D J E N N Y P A C K H A M A / W 2 0 1 2 - 1 3 C AT W A L K S .

A question I am frequently asked as the shows come to a close and the cocktail party circuit of normal life resumes, is how we fashion commentators define and distinguish the collections that are hailed as a masterpiece and those that are deemed disappointing.

How are we to decide how to effectively value the differences between two industry-acclaimed “geniuses” after merely a brief viewing from the side of the catwalk?

From the perspective of the untrained eye the confusion is understandable. Similarities in cut and colours throughout the course of the shows can result in bewilderment; especially when near identical dresses are simultaneously acclaimed and disregarded by the fashion mafia.

After careful thought, I believe it comes down to two things, the context and the person critiquing the show.

In the fashion business, we tend to respect the opinions of people who know the industry. We rely on these voices to decide whether something is good or not, based on their considerable knowledge of the brand, history, trends and construction.

We feel entitled to say Hedi Slimane’s collection for Saint Laurent was disappointing, because it was unoriginal.

It was an amalgamation of ideas we have all seen before, without a new creative angle. However, for the 50/LUSTRE

person who is unconcerned about YSL or the evolution of high fashion, they might just look at the clothes and say “I like that skinny suit.”

There is nothing wrong with this opinion but from an industry perspective, the professional’s view tends to count more because we are looking for originality in high-fashion; we celebrate progression in design. And of course, as the professional speaks on behalf of the industry, it is an opinion heard and respected by many rather than just being based on personal point-of-view.

To this extent, the average consumer can have an opinion on something and, most importantly, express it through deciding to buy, or not to buy that product. And ultimately, this is a very powerful position to be in.

This is why the glamour model Kelly Brook’s range for New Look was a multi-million pound success story, whereas many fashion companies which are hailed as “revolutionary” by the industry, don’t have sales figures even remotely close to that. The people have spoken, and they are more interested in buying flirty tops than they are strange cocoon-shaped dresses, regardless of how many magazine covers that dress has been on.

So to answer the question, the fashion industry defines a masterpiece based on the construction, the concept, the context, and the history surrounding that garment. However, a normal person who doesn’t read reviews is more likely to define a masterpiece by whether they like it or not. And both opinions matter.

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As part of our first issue, we thought that sharing the people who inspired us throughout this project would be not just a courtesy, but rather obligatory.

Each of them represents something that goes beyond excellence in their careers; they are a testimony to the idea that life isn’t just about what you do for a living, but everything else that you do with it. Through their actions and words, they have indirectly guided us through the creative processes of bringing LUSTRE to life, and have compelled us to produce content that is both mature and sophisticated, but above all, fun.

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“

Everyone has their insecurities … but it’s like “well, that’s the way I am” and if you get paranoid about changing, get neurotic about keeping up with the trends, you’re gonna be screwed.

”

Model, Kristen McEnamy, reminding us it is easier to just be yourself, not the person you are told youshould be.

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Whatever faith people had in the political process is in tatters. I’ve seen that directly on the doorstep and it’s my personal objective to make politics a symbol for good again.

”

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Environmental Journalist and Conservative MP, Zac Goldsmith, on why his way of doing politics will re-inspire confidence in Westminster.

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Our culture is fearful of ageing, and especially ageing women.

I want young women to see that beauty ages beautifully and there is no need to feel that getting older is something that has to be medicated, managed with surgery or be obsessed about.

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Journalist and co-founder of All Walks on the Catwalk, Caryn Franklin, speaking her mind – and every other woman’s.

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“

You never know if you are accomplishing anything... We hope it helps.

Human Rights campaigner and Actor, George Clooney, on being arrested outside the Sudanese embassy for protesting against the genocide in Darfur.

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�

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Make-up is seen as a frivolous thing, but it gives women confidence to achieve things if they feel like they look good.

”

Make-Up artist, Lisa Eldrige, on what most of us try to deny, whilst knowing it’s the truth.

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“

I don’t compromise with BASTARDS: people who lie, people who cheat, people who are not with the group and behave like parasites. That, I can’t stand. head of the IMF, Christine Lagarde, on her unique way of doing business.

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”

“

I follow my nose.

It’s as simple as that.

Actress and Muse, Tilda Swinton, on her avant-garde and mesmerizing sense of style.

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UNBROKEN THREAD The colder months necessitate luxury in terms of fabrics; strong, durable yet indulgent materials are a must. Here, Luster selects the preeminent items with which we can face the fast approaching wintery months with disregard. Stylish, smart and wearable, these pieces will last for many seasons to come.

Text by Carol Aquino and William De Mart igny Images by A ntoni s Delta Illu st rat ion s by Oz Rezende

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THE WINTER FLORAL If you haven’t done so already, now’s the time to add an element of the East into your wardrobe. The sumptuous print on these double lined, silk and cashmere mix, Gucci trousers (£1080) are the perfect reference to the Orient without tipping over into costume drama territory. Like the perfect goose feather duvet, you’ll never be too warm or too cold. Coupled with the feminine crêpe de chine Liberty London blouse (£170), we have a charming combination of matching colour tones and complimentary floral motifs. The deconstructed cropped woolen jacket from Helmut Lang (£675) contrasts pleasingly with the delicate florals and prevents the look becoming too twee. Its deconstructed shape and eye-catching zipper provide attitude and depth to an otherwise trans-seasonal ensemble. Shoes (£525), Bottega Veneta.

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THE STATEMENT SKIRT No wardrobe is complete without an item of clothing that always draws admiring remarks. Let us introduce you to the Statement Skirt. Crafted from the finest merino wool with carefully placed, wafer-thin patent leather panels, this item will surely turn heads. The tailoring is impeccable; lightly skimming the hips and upper-leg, yet the robustness of the material prevents unsightly clinging. The discreetly futuristic-meets-utilitarian skirt (£710) is a classic example of what Alexander Wang does best. We feel the Haider Ackermann rounded shoulder-pad blouse (£590) proves the perfect counterpart to the Statement Skirt, complementing it effortlessly without disappearing into the background.

Necklace (£318), Bex Rox. Shoes (£985), Gina.

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THE PAISLEY SUIT The exotic and colourful print, born in the ancient cultures of India and Persia, has been strikingly re-interpreted by J.W. Anderson in his capsule collection for Topshop. Teamed with the off-white cashmere Polo-Neck, from Joseph (£225, Joseph), the Pencil Skirt and Cocoon Top (£40 each, Topshop) suddenly becomes the avant-garde suit we’ve all been looking for. The exquisite silk fabric has been quilted and shaped into an elegant silhouette ever so slightly reminiscent of a 60s Pierre Cardin garment. Astonishingly warm, nothing else is required other than a light jacket. Oversized clutch, £875, Dolce & Gabbana.

Boots, £355, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania.

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THE COAT We all know how it is to be in the constant search for The Coat. There are too many boxes to be ticked. We cannot presume to know your needs, but if the LUSTRE team had to pick one for themselves, then this divine Christian Dior Cashmere Coat (£3510) would be it. Lined in amethyst silk, it carries a myriad of hidden pockets, artfully streamlined and hidden through faultless tailoring.

Lanvin’s lavish brocade trousers (£1190) provide a maximalist touch to an otherwise minimalist silhouette; who can resist their metallic curlicues and decadent excess? In essence, this is a look that has been expertly crafted by the two Maisons who absolutely understand women. Poloneck, as before. Shoes (£695), Nicholas Kirkwood.

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THE STANDOUT TROUSER Where does the irrational fear of brightly-coloured garments on our lower halves stem from? One can only wonder - but when faced with the Flocked Velvet Slim-Fit Claret trousers by Mother (£ 185, Browns), all of our misapprehensions suddenly evaporate. Teamed with the heavy cotton Military Jacket by Acne (£ 550) and the Buttoned Shirt by Jil Sander (£ 370), it presents the ideal off-duty day look. Though skinny fitting, the intelligent cutting technique and higher rise ensure flattering and friendly contours. The baroque pattern of the flocking adds a subtle nuance to the trouser ensuring it is a stand-out rather than merely stand-ard. Ankle Boots (£199) and belt (£29.99), The Kooples.

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THE TARTAN SKIRT This 50s inspired Tartan Skirt from the Ralph Lauren Collection (£1,178) gains a new perspective when paired with the Studded Long Sleeved Denim Shirt from Alessandra Rich (£248, Harrods) and cream jumper from Miss Selfridge (£40). The result is a curiously appealing ‘Highlands meets Western’ combination that shies away from the expected. Of course, it’s all about the skirt – and what a skirt it is. The Wool and Cashmere-mix is inviting to the touch, whilst at the same time being exceptionally hard-wearing. Full skirted and sitting right on the waist, it is a flattering, feminine cut for all shapes.

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THE LLBD No, not a misspelling. We’re talking about the Little Leather (and lace) Black Dress. The construction is of this Gucci garment is unparalleled, combining heavy hand-made Venetian lace with the softest Italian veal leather. The result?

Breath-taking. LUSTRE felt ashamed for pairing it with anything else. Amazingly, Mango’s extravagant beaded collar (£62.99) fitted like a glove. The dress’ impressive price tag (£8,695) is a testament to its remarkable craftsmanship and attention to detail. But after all, what other item gets quite so much wear in our wardrobes?

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THE PRINT CLASH The somewhat dubious Edwardian styles shown at both Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton divided fashion critics’ opinions, more so than any other at the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 shows. LUSTRE believes that the styling of these shows is supposed to be ‘over the top’, and sometimes can be misunderstood. Proof of this is the simple combination of these beautifully crafted silk dresses which create a striking ensemble when worn together. The print of the Marc Jacobs dress (£1650, Harrods) is set off to an unusual advantage with the geometric design of the Louis Vuitton (£2125). When worn with Marni’s stacked yet stylish heel (£815, Harvey Nichols), it becomes a trans-seasonal ensemble.

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LIGHT T H E FA S H I O N I N T ERV I E W There isn’t much that Kirstin Sinclair and her camera miss, but we are pretty certain that whatever it might be, it’s nothing to worry about. An internationally renowned catwalk photographer and now the subject of an exclusive exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, we can reveal that Kirstin is just as candid as her images Text by William De Mart igny. Images by Kirst in Sinclair & Get t y LUSTRE/81

For many people the catwalk show is something exclusive, seemingly created for a few Fashionistas who get to sit in the front row. And the result? A limited number of very small outfits that we ordinary people will never be able to afford, in magazines we rarely pick up for casual reading. But there is much more to it than that, something the “Catwalk to Cover” exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum illustrates in exquisite detail, putting the whole process from catwalk to magazine under the microscope.

Designers, models, make-up artists, hair stylists – all play a crucial role in creating a sensational and successful catwalk show. However, it is those snapping and flashing catwalk photographers who can truly make or break a fashion runway event, recording a show as either an extraordinary piece of theatre, or as a mere “also-ran”. It is their images which determine how a designer’s work is made available to the media and consequently how the clothes are reported, interpreted and finally judged by history.

Often, however, their work and their importance in the multi-billion pound fashion industry is overlooked, as fashion photographer Kirstin Sinclair, whose images form the subject of the exhibition, explains.

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“Catwalk photographers simply don’t get enough credit. I’m not saying this for myself, and I do know that there are some in it just for the money, but there is a contingent who works so hard for very little gain,” she says. “But I do it for the clothes, and it is an ever more difficult field with the future of catwalk photography becoming increasingly uncertain.”

Kirstin’s fears, that the work of the catwalk photographer is in danger of becoming a lost art, are becoming progressively more relevant; “The industry is increasingly turning to recording and then just taking the stills from the film,” she points out. “That said we have two choices, either to just move with it or get left behind. When used correctly, technology can be our friend.” However, she adds “You must still keep your style true whilst moving with the times”.

The majority of the exhibition has been curated from Kirstin’s chronicles of catwalk photography, also featured in her book A Front Row Seat, and presents a compelling insight into this elite world of creativity and chaos. A collection of images drawn from the portfolios of Kirstin and her colleagues, it is designed to lead the reader through the labyrinth that is a catwalk show, with frantic backstage shots of designers and models, via the glamorous front rows, spilling over with editors and celebrities. “I’ve had a great response from everyone in the industry, and am so happy I was finally able to realise it – it is so good to show this side of fashion.”

And for those who might assume that this is just a few pictures of unaffordable, inaccessible clothes, they could not be more wrong. “I always try to shoot creatively and I hope that comes across, both in the book and the exhibition.” Kirstin prides herself on bringing a different perspective to capturing the catwalk, explaining, “When I say creatively, I mean, why stand amongst the other photographers and get the same shot as them? It’s not my style. They are recording, I am documenting. I’m much more about the individual shot. I like my photographs to give a little perspective.”

She continues, “By that, I mean, a photograph that not only demonstrates the garment in movement, but the size of the room, the amount of people present. To capture pure delight on an editor’s face as a model walks past her, really brings the clothes to life and adds a realistic quality to the otherwise unusual atmosphere of the catwalk.”

Another potential threat to the art of the true catwalk photographer comes in the form of bloggers. Streetstyle photography is a relatively modern phenomenon, and it seems everyone who has a camera is snapping away, especially the so-called “fashion bloggers”.

Kirstin has no time for these amateurs: “It’s getting too big, it’s becoming an invasion. These people are not composing their shots, they are not professional.

Good bloggers are fine, but people just photographing what they are wearing? Teenagers who don’t know how to hold a camera? It needs controlling and has made me question why I’m doing it now”.

“I do love the fashion industry in spite of all of this and have an enormous amount of admiration for everyone involved in it,” she says. “Above all, I love to find angles in my photography, whether that be a model in profile, celebrities gossiping together on the front row or the perfect street-style shot. I like it to be as beautiful and organic as possible.”

And through her series of photographs from the premier catwalks and exclusive back stage access, in spite of the evident mayhem and air-kissing, it is indeed a beautiful and glamorous world to be such an important part of.

“Catwalk to Cover: A Front Row Seat” runs until 25th February 2012 at the Fashion and Textile Museum

Above, from left to right: Kirstin’s book, “A Front Row Seat”; Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2011; The “Catwalk to Cover” exhibition; Kirsten herself, photographed for Lustre.

Previous pages: Calvin Klein and Philip Lim A/W 2009-10.

“Street-style photography used to be about celebrating the industry outside of the industry, if you know what I mean, but it’s pushing me away, and what’s more, these bloggers often get more credit than the catwalk photographers who have earned their place in the fashion world.”

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LUSTRE PROMOTION

LUSTRE PROMOTION

LUSTRE PROMOTION

LUSTRE PROMOTION

LUSTRE PROMOTION

A stunning new exhibition at the V&A’s museum, ‘Hollywood Costume’, explores the central role costume design plays in cinema storytelling. Showcasing over 100 of the most iconic movie costumes from across a century of film-making, it is an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the clothes worn by unforgettable and beloved characters.

COSTUMES FOR LIFE Illu st rat ion s by Paulo Marcelo “OZ” Rezende

Lustre feels that the clothes you wear can create drama, a lasting impression or a breathtaking impact.

Based on this premise – and celebrating the V&A’s great efforts into bringing this exhibition together – we review some of fashion’s most iconic movie characters through the “eyes” of the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections. We ask ourselves ‘what would they have worn” if able to pick and choose from the catwalks? With an added bonus: this time around, you can wear them too.

DI A N E K E AT ON

ANNIE HALL A WOODY A L L E N F I L M

ANNIE HALL Diane Keaton’s seminal character had a penchant for an androgynous style and accessories borrowed from the menswear section. This ensemble from Ralph Lauren would be Annie’s favourite from the A/W season, and would definitely sum up her American’s views of a British gentleman’s wardrobe.

Jumper, £495; Blazer, £1335; Trousers, £980

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UMA THURMAN

KILL BILL A QUENTIN TARANTINO FILM

KILL BILL More than just a few men have dreamt of ‘The Bride’ in her bright yellow jumpsuit. It hugged her in all the right places and catapaulted Uma Thurman into sex symbol status. Few can carry off the same ensemble without looking – let’s face it – a bit ridiculous. But one can definitely be inspired by this exquisite Versace coat. We’re sure the Bride would kill you for it…

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Coat-dress, £7995

AUDREY HEPBURN

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S A BLAKE EDWARDS FILM

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S How can we talk about fashion’s greatest movie heroines without mentioning Holly Golightly? Luckily, when we spotted this delicate dress from Raf Simon’s last collection at Jil Sander, we knew she would be well represented. If Hubert de Givenchy were willing to share his muse, Raf would totally be her man.

Dress, £3530

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MOLLY RINGWALD

PRETTY IN PINK A JOHN HUGH ES FILM

PRETTY IN PINK Andie Walsh was Molly Ringwald’s character in this romantic teenage comedy/drama from the 80s. Completely in love with the colour pink, she fashioned her own prom dress from a couple of old hand-medowns, and shines on through. Kudos for crafting your own dress, but we’re sure that if Andie had been given a choice, she would have picked this dreamy Dior number.

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Dress, £5290

JUDY GARLAND

THE WIZARD OF OZ AN MGM PRODUCTION

WIZARD OF OZ Dorothy’s shoes have entranced us ever since childhood, making us dream in sparkly red. When we caught a glimpse of these Prada shoes, all of those memories came flooding back. Just click these heels three times and take them home with you.

Shoes, £1485

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ALICIA SILVERSTONE

CLUELESS AN AMY HECKERLING FILM

CLUELESS Cher Horowitz made Calvin Klein famous the world over after her infamous conversation with her dad. But we’re convinced that if Clueless was to be re-made, she’d be an Alexander Wang girl. Edgy and urban, Wang’s clothing would be perfect for a blogger/Instagrammer/front row maven Cher of the 21st century.

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Dress, £995

GW YNETH PALTROW

THE ROYAL TENENBAUMS A WES ANDERSON FILM

THE ROYAL TENENBAUMS Margot Tenenbaum only wore a Lacoste dress and a giant fur coat, come rain or shine, throughout the whole movie. However, her striking blonde bob and heavily lined eyes would most certainly be very happy with this Victoria Beckham dress and Fendi fur coat. Richie just wouldn’t know where to look.

Dress £1650; Fur Coat, P.O.A.

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M EL ANIE G RIFF I TH

WORKING GIRL A MIK E NIC H O LS F ILM

WORKING GIRL Melanie Griffith shot to fame interpreting the hard-working Tess McGill who falls dangerously in love with Harrison Ford’s Jack Trainer (and who wouldn’t?). We’re absolutely sure Jack wouldn’t think twice in choosing between Tess and Katharine Parker (Sigourney Weaver’s character) when seeing her dazzle in this incredible work-to-play Prada suit.

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Jacket, £2520; Trousers, £1105; Handbag, £1190

SECRET SUPPORT

STRETCH Gone are the days of granny-style girdles and support tights that resemble surgical recovery apparel (although, even these are making a come-back) Today we have shape wear technology that slims down, shapes up and smooth’s in all the right places. We’ve said it, you’ve heard it a million times before, but getting the foundations right is half the battle won… Text by Emilia Alexandra 102/LUSTRE

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T

he winter months are upon us and the cold has set in.

As the frost hits the ground all we want to do after a long day is indulge in Nigella’s Meatazza and Mary’s cakes. Unfortunately our wardrobes have to continue through the winter slump and isn’t it one of life’s cruelties that when you want to be shrouded in chunky knits and generally voluminous everything else, we have to find the strength to carry on our daily lives in natty cropped trouser suits and slim-fit cashmere?

Nothing can quite hide the late-nightred-wine-and-cheese -board bulge, or for that matter, the flaky pasty sheen one’s skin decides to assume between the months of October and February. But for the latter at least we can buff, bronze and prune ourselves into adequacy.

The former is a little trickier to combat but help is at hand. Marks & Spencer’s is heralding the return of the” Bridget Jones Knicker” and this time our Real Best Friend is here to stay.

Their latest campaign, with not a Twiggy, nor an increasingly nipped and tucked Danni or Myleene in sight, is promoting decent and dare we say it, attractive control underwear. The secret is out and they are not ashamed to shout it loud.

Six ‘normal’ women are draped over each other, wearing good quality shape enhancing knickers and bras that are a far cry from the lace and pith that has been the norm in their previous underwear adverts.

It may not be traffic-stopping Wonderbra – esqe, nor is it Rosie Huntington-Whitely come- hithering in satin, but you know it will do the job.

The tag line – “For Every Woman You Are” is a touch clichéd, but it gets the point across. There are days when you get back from work, feed and wash the children, cook supper and are still able to unleash your inner Isabella Rossellini. However, if like us you are exhausted just reading that list, then when it comes to underwear you need something you can rely on. It may not be 50 shades of naughty, but lasting, flattering support wear will inspire confidence in the way you look, your wardrobe and choice of outfit.

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F

or it is a fact universally acknowledged, that clothes only look their best when the upholstery underneath ensures that everything is where it should be. Oh, how we have grieved when we see four bosoms instead of two, or have walked behind a derrière that can only be described as multiple. There really is no excuse when now we have underwear on the market to cater for every need; all of it capable of transforming a blancmange into a booty. Aside from the obvious physical difference, it will make the clothes you buy look so much better. Fabric will drape not hang and skim not cling.

However, the greatest joy of this new control underwear is its versatility regarding differing body shapes. Marks & Spencer proudly uses models from a size 8 to a size 16, and no woman (even in the sample size category) has the same shape. Every figure, from the pilates honed to the curvyin-the-wrong-places needs help to define shape, as well as assistance in smoothing away a multiple of natural, yet unwelcome womanly bulges. Personally, they make us feel so much more confident when wearing … in fact who are we kidding?

We’d feel good in a flour sack in the knowledge that our (late twenties) saddle bags and (mid-thirties) love handles have had a hefty restraining order of heavy duty spandex levied against them. There is nothing shaming in succumbing to a bit of extra help, and at least now, the ranges available no longer resemble carpet underlay.

And for those of you having a Rossellini moment? In the immortal words of Bridget Jones, your chances of reaching the crucial moment are greatly increased by wearing them in the first place, and as the chance is fine enough what with taking Emma to ballet and Jack to Taekwondo, should the crucial moment arrive, we can assure you neither party will really care.

Marks & Spencer Body Contouring range is available throughout the UK, with prices ranging from £16.50 to £49.99.

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BEAUT Y

A LOVE LETTER TO THE FEARLESSLY BOLD LIP Text by A nn Friedman Images by Rex Feat ures, Press A sociat ion & Wire Image.com

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I was once afraid of the bold lip. Red lipstick called to mind femme fatales, bombshells and geishas; women throughout history who were meant to be visually admired, not intellectually feared or socially engaged. Not only that, but it also seemed like a difficult look to keep up with in the course of a normal day.

I pictured myself chatting animatedly while fellow partygoers stared at a smear of lipstick across my front teeth. I worried that, as the day wore on, the colour would creep outside the lines of my mouth, turning me into a sad clown who'd wandered away from the circus, but ultimately I didn't know any serious older women in my profession who bothered with bright lipstick.

However a few years ago, bored and in something of a fashion rut, I finally, tentatively, thought I would try it out. I started my journey with minimum commitment, buying an inexpensive cherry-red lipstick from Boots on a quick lunchtime dash from the office. And soon I found myself wearing it almost every day. A bold lip, it turned out, was a perfect fit for my personality. I am bright, outgoing and my mouth is almost always moving. While I’ve always admired women who can pull off a smoky-mysterious look, ringing their eyes with layers of liner and leaving their lips bare, it wasn’t my thing. I was never very dark or brooding. At school I tried to emulate my angst ridden friends and pretend I liked Morrisey, but when I was alone, I listened to Manhattan Transfer and Björk — the musical equivalent of neon bright NARS nail varnish.

Since my first impulse purchase, my lipstick arsenal has become bigger and bolder. Mac Viva Glam or Chanel La Fascinante, the most classic of classic reds, look fabulous with my most threadbare yet achingly expensive grey T-shirt. A NARS brick red instantly channels the early ‘90s, making me want to button up a silk shirt all the way, slide into some high-waisted denim, and get my Lara Flynn Boyle on. Revlon’s Wild Orchid, a delightfully trashy fuchsia with a pearly sheen is the perfect pop of colour for a monochrome outfit.

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Givenchy’s Rouge Interdit in Bucolic Poppy n°54 is as perky and bold as they come. £21, House of Fraser

Christian Dior’s Rouge Dior Voluptuous Care Lipcolor in Ara Red n°99 emulates flair and old-school glamour. £25, Debenhams

Shiseido Lacquer Rouge Lipstick in Nocturne is a dramatic, deep red lipstick that behaves like a lip-gloss, and is inspired by the beautiful art of Japanese lacquer-ware. £23, Harvey Nichols

Rimmel Lasting Finish by Kate Moss Lipstick in #01 was perfectly made for those who want to try first before investing much. £5.50, Superdrug

Laura Mercier Creme Lip Colour Lipstick - Bing Cherry (burned Red) is a deep red with plum undertones and only a small hint of brown. £15, Selfridges

I wear Illamasqua’s Flare, an advanced bold-lip colour if there ever were such a thing, to picnics. And NARS Heat Wave is my default. It’s effortlessly upbeat and modern, the perfect complement to everything from a blindingly patterned midi skirt to a chartreuse ‘60s shift dress or even, dare I say it, double denim – or as our American cousins have it, a Texas tuxedo.

It’s never practical but always appropriate and I get compliments every single time I wear it.

Still scared? I can offer some practical advice, too. Using a lip liner will help you colour inside the lines – just forget about the 90s trend of having the lip liner darker than your colour. The best way of doing it is pairing it up to a colour as close to your lipstick as possible. And after you’ve taken the plunge and left the house with a bright lip, a compact mirror is your life jacket.

Sneak a quick peek whenever you get a little nervous that you’ve smudged, or that your colour is fading into an ugly ring on your outer lip. Don’t hesitate to fix it up — reapplying in public is sexy. If you’re worried about leaving lipstick rings on your wine glass, give the rim a quick lick before you take a sip (it sounds strange, but it works). Not that there’s anything wrong with leaving behind a little semicircle of your signature colour. After all, the whole point of a bold lip is to make your mark.

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A GLOWING LOOK FROM WITHIN Text by Jessica Graham Images by Reuters, A F P and Press A ssociat ion

Healthy, “lit-from-within” skin was the defining feature on the autumn/winter 2012 catwalks. Surely being born after Fawlty Towers was long off the air helps, but age alone isn’t the only factor that can assure a dewy complexion. We often forget our bodies are a single unit composed of parts that are closely connected. Sounds a bit obvious when mentioned, but our daily routines regarding exercise, food and so much more are closely related to our skin’s condition.

While health problems such as diabetes, obesity, heart attacks and cancer are obvious reasons to change our habits for the best, no one can say that improving a little bit on a somewhat healthy lifestyle would hurt – you can get amazing, glowing skin!

These tips will help you have overall beautiful, healthy skin tomorrow and for life.

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Drink more water now.

Tired, dull looking skin is a clear sign that you are not drinking enough water. To ensure you stay hydrated, try carrying a bottle of water or green tea everywhere you go. Try to stay away from fizzy water and other carbonated drinks, which studies show can interfere with calcium absorption in the body.

SWITCH YOUR DAILY CLEANSER TODAY. If your skin feels tight after washing your face, you’re doing it wrong. In the winter months, it is especially important to use a very mild, moisturizing cleanser without any harsh soap - these only serve to dry the skin further. Try instead a gentle oil-based cleanser such as Dermalogica PreCleanse (£25, AltwoodSkincare.com) or Lush’s Ultrabland (£10.75/100g, Lush.co.uk), both suitable for all skin types and won’t clog pores.

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT. Dr Nicholas Perricone, top dermatologist in Hollywood and author of Forever Young (Atria Books - £17.99, Waterstones) says forget Botox, and instead, eat your way to beautiful skin: “Our skin is a barometer of our overall health, so do follow an antiinflammatory diet”. This translates as the powerful antioxidants of Vitamin C and healthy Omega-3 fatty acids that stop cell-aging on its tracks. Eat plenty of dark leafy greens, bell peppers, citrus fruits, blueberries and cold water fish such as salmon, all of which are packed with skin-loving antioxidants and those healthy fatty acids.

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TAKE VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS DAILY. Look for beauty-boosting multi-vitamins such as Seven Seas Health Oils Radiant You (£4.85, Boots) packed with Fish Oil, Biotin, Zinc and L-cysteine which all aid hair, skin and nails for a healthy glow from within.

NEVER SKIP THE MOISTURIZER. Whether your skin is oily or problematic, skipping moisturizer, especially with SPF, is a big mistake. In order to stay healthy and glowing from inside out, you need to lock in your skin cells’ natural moisture and protect against free radicals. Use under makeup in the morning with an SPF 15 or higher, and with gentle exfoliators at night for added benefits. We love Clarins Vital Light Day Illuminating Anti-Ageing Comfort Cream SPF15 (£37, John Lewis) for the day, Yonka Anti-Age Advanced Optimizer Gel Lift (50ml. £80.35, Deepbeauty.com) and Burt’s Bees Carrot Nutritive Night Cream (£12, Feelunique.com) for the evening, enriched with beta-carotene and Vitamin A to help revitalize and renew skin cells for a bright youthful look.

TRY BIKRAM YOGA. This increasingly popular form of exercise is suitable for all ages and abilities, whether you are an absolute beginner or a pro-athlete. The heated room will accelerate detox, open pores – much like getting a facial - and speed up your metabolism. You will see visible improvements after the very first class and the benefits are for life.

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Beauty Get the LooK Translate some of the best Autumn/Winter 2012 looks from the runway to the real world in 5 easy steps

Step 1 – Start by prepping your skin with a moisturizer such as Clinique Superdefense SPF 25 Moisturizer (£37, Boots.com). A powerful age defying moisturizer, its antioxidants fight the effects of emotional stress on skin as well as protection from sun and pollution. If you feel like splurging on yourself, we cannot recommend more Crème de la Mer’s The Moisturizing Gel Cream (30 ml. £100, Cremedelamer.co.uk) – it’s worth every penny.

Step 2 – Apply a luminizing primer such as L’Oreal Lumi Magique Primer (£9.99, Boots) or Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat (£25, House of Fraser) just over the cheek bones and the bridge of your nose to achieve skin that appears to glow from insideout.

Step 3 – Use a water-based liquid foundation such as Dior Diorskin Nude - Natural Glow Hydrating makeup SPF 10 (£31, Debenhams). Its light to medium coverage delivers an instant sensation of well-being without any cakey appearance. You can even try a BB cream for a lighter, day-to-day coverage and also enjoy the perks of treatments such as reducing the appearance of blemishes and fine lines. Just bear in mind of skipping primer, as they act as one! Skin79 Super Plus (Hot Pink) BB Cream Triple Functions (£13.95, Treatyourskin.com) is a must-have in Korea and Japan, while Estée Lauder CyberWhite Brilliant Cells Extra Intensive BB Cream SPF 35 PA+++ (£37, Strawberrynet.com) is hailed for its pearly shimmer that brightens any complexion.

Step 4 – Achieve naturally flushed cheeks using a liquid or creamy blush instead of powder. Try Nars The Multiple Stick in Riviera (£29, Space NK) or Revlon Photo Ready Cream Blush in Flushed (£7.99, Superdrug). These blushers can be applied to lips for just a hint of colour.

Step 5 – Finish with a micro-fine translucent powder only in the areas of face that tend to become oily such as T-Zone and chin or bridge of nose. We love Laura Mercier - Mineral Finishing Powder (£26, Harvey Nichols) or MAC Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder (£19.50, Maccosmetics.co.uk).

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NUIT NOIr There are summer perfumes and there are winter perfumes. And “noir” perfumes – a grander way of saying “oriental scents” – are winter-perfect. Warm, floral, exotic and a little bit racy, moody noirs come into their element now that the clocks have gone black and the temperatures have plummeted.

Here we spotlight five noirs spicing up this winter.

There are no marks out of ten simply because perfumes are so very personal.

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Chanel Coco Noir – £75 for 50ml, Harvey Nichols Chanel describes this new scent as “like the black velvet of a famous Venetian craftsman who dyed his cloth in successive layers to bring radiance out of the darkness”. Which is an elaborate way of saying it’s richly layered, it’s intense.

Musky sandal, vetiver, franckincense and patchouli are the base notes, but rounded off with sweetness and light grapefruit, pink peppercorn, geranium leaf.

Sophisticated and sexy, black, to put it in the words of Coco Chanel, “has it all”.

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Givenchy Dahlia Noir – £42 for 30ml, House of Fraser The first fragrance from Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci – aka the master of dark romance – is a surprisingly girly affair, thanks to its floral and fruity top notes including rose, mandarin, iris and mimosa. Soft, elegant and intoxicating without crossing the line into fruity punch territory, Dahlia Noir is ideal for day.

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Estée Lauder Sensuous Noir – £47 for 50ml, Harrods The darker, sexier version of Estée Lauder’s Sensuous is the olfactory equivalent of a cashmere jumper: it feels great on the skin. Creamy vanilla, honey and amber serve as base, while rose black pepper and sensual jasmine hit up the top notes. An effortlessly pleasing blend which works for all occasions.

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Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir – £38 for 30ml, www.jomalone.co.uk Inspired by the “sensuality of a daring red dress”, Jo Malone’s noir is a suitably spicy affair of pink pepper, clove and woods. As its name suggests, pomegranate is the key note, although rich raspberry and plum add to the aromatic, fruity blend.

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Agent Provocateur Pétale Noir – £49 for 50ml, www.agentprovocateur.com Not exactly subtle, but that’s to be expected from the purveyors of naughty lingerie. This powerful floral is loaded with all kinds of flowers and fruit – magnolia, violet leaves, hyacinth, flower stem accord, water lily, bergamot, mandarin – and beefed up with full-bodied vetiver, leather, musk, tobacco leaf, patchouli and amber. Seduction bottled.

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DELICIOUS

RAFAEL COSTA E SILVA Text by William de Mart igny & Carol Aquino Images by A ntoni s Delta

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Rafa Costa E Silva has trained with the best in the world, literally. Under his belt are two years working for Jean Georges Vongerichten at his celebrated Vong in New York, a further two years at Rene Pujol also in NYC, before spending five years at Mugaritz in the Basque country, a 2 Michelin star restaurant which has just been declared the third best in the world by the “British Restaurant Magazine”. Not bad at all, considering Rafa has just turned 33 years old.

While growing up in sunny Rio de Janeiro, cooking was one of his favourite hobbies. However, he never thought of it as a career path until, aged 21, he realised Business School did not fulfil him. Instead of throwing in the towel and starting on a new career path altogether, he decided to combine it with cooking. A year before finishing Business School he decided to enrol on a gastronomy evening course and two years later he went to The Culinary Institute of America in New York.

Who would have supposed that just ten years after this, Rafa would be leaving his position as the Head Chef of Mugaritz, to embark in the adventure of opening his own restaurant in his home town of Rio de Janeiro.

Shortly before leaving Mugaritz, Rafa was invited to be the Guest Chef at Kensington Palace’s Orangery during the Olympic Games, and where Luster had the opportunity to chat with, and taste the lauded skills of this young chef.

This was a special project for Rafa as he was expressly invited to cook traditional Brazilian recipes – something he had hardly done since becoming a professional. Rafa’s menu, produced in collaboration with Mosimann’s club, was devised to show off every day Brazilian food and bring a little taste of what’s to come in 2014 and 2016 (with the World Cup and Olympics both being held in Brazil). “It’s been great, although we have had to adapt to the ingredients we can find here! But I think people are getting a good sense of what we eat back home” he said.

A concoction of Feijoada (a pork, beef and black beans stew), Risoto de Acafrao e Abobora (pumpkin and saffron risotto), Bobo de Camarao (a prawn and cream of pumpkin stew, perfectly seasoned with dende, rich palm tree oil) were just a few of the dishes on offer, all served individually in small portions. The food on offer left us with no room for more, but more was precisely what we wanted…

And the dessert cart (as Rafa pointed out, a cart is a necessary custom in Brazil simply because “you can’t eat just one!”) did not disappoint – Brigadeiro (a form of chocolate truff les made with condensed milk and dark cocoa powder) and bolo de rolo (an elegant version of the British nursery staple, Roly Poly Pudding - thinly rolled pastry with layers of guava jam), were highlights amongst other equally moreish delicacies.

He is modest about his glittering career and quick ascension to success in a path that is, sometimes, harsh and unforgiving – after all, we’ve all seen at least one episode of Gordon Ramsay’s F Word... But Rafael isn’t interested in the glitz and glamour of celebrity chef-dom, insisting that he had to learn his craft through real cooking, rather than by socialising. “I became a cook, a real cook, in New York, when I worked the lines, burning my hands and working like crazy: in Spain, though, I learned that there is another kind of restaurant in me”.

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Feijoada

A great fan of Flamengo (Brazil’s most famous football team) and a lover of motorbikes, ultimately one can clearly see that what Rafa mostly likes to do is cook. And this passion, once again, is leading his career to different shores, this time back to his hometown. “At Mugaritz we did what we wanted. We were in constant evolution, always changing our way of thinking. Almost all of us that worked there are friends, we were like one big family.” For him it was a difficult decision, “If Mugaritz were in Brazil I’d work there my whole life.”

So what Rafa has done is to go back and open a restaurant based on the same ethos of Mugaritz, which favours local produce and generates a more environmentally friendly relationship with food. Currently, he is sourcing and working with local producers from the Rio de Janeiro area to provide him with the best quality raw ingredients and unique products for the opening of his own restaurant.

The buzzwords he uses – local, sustainable, and organic – are familiar enough in the UK, but it’s a fairly revolutionary concept for Brazil.

“We want to be really close to producers and to farmers: and I’ll have my own garden where I can grow a lot of things I’ll use”, he said. His philosophy is all about f lavour; almost everything he uses will come from within a hundred kilometres of Rio, most of it organic, “We’re discovering some products we didn’t even know existed!”

Bobo de Camarao

The restaurant itself will be housed in a building dating back to 1902, which is now being painstakingly restored to preserve the original façade. And it won’t be fancy either – no jackets or ties required. “The food and service will be top class, but the environment will be very cool and relaxed”, he explained. He is also keen to adopt a strong environmental ethic, although it’s not easy to promote recycling in Brazil, where there’s barely any infrastructure for it.

And since it’s what is on everyone’s minds over here, what about the 2016 Olympics? Bring it on: Rafael is eager to use the games, and the 2014 World cup across Brazil, to show what the country can do in terms of food as well as sport.

“For us, it’s going to be amazing: a chance to show we can do it as well as anyone else.”

Judging from the empty plates at his pop-up restaurant in London, Brazilian cuisine can certainly hold its own. And in Rafael Costa e Silva, it has a young chef who wants to use his talent not to show off one of a kind, Michelin starred dishes, but to bring a modern perspective to his countries culinary traditions. The prices might still be peasant friendly, but everything else is on the rise for Rafa.

CLOCKWISE: RAFA AT WORK IN MUGARITZ, AND PRESENTING HIS ORGANIC PRODUCE IN BRAZIL.

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RECIPE Brazil Nut Cake with Whisky Ice Cream and Dark Chocolate Sauce

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For the Brazil nut cake: 6 Eggs 450g Sugar 250g Brazil Nuts 3 tbsp Fine Breadcrumbs 10g Curry Powder Firstly, take two large bowls and separate the eggs, dividing the yolks and the whites. Whisk the sugar and the yolks into submission by hand, just until they reach a light creamy colour and a custard-like density. Place on one side.

Grate the Brazil nuts and reserve. Beat the egg whites, with a different and very clean whisk, until soft white peaks are just beginning to hold their shape and set aside. Incorporate the grated Brazil nuts into the custard-like yolk and sugar mixt ure, and then slowly add the egg whites, folding them in softly with a large metal spoon in a large figure of eight motion.

Finally, add the breadcrumbs, employing the same figure of eight motion, taking care to not over-mix and th us beating the air out.

Place in a 7” silicone cake mould and bake for just 18 minutes at 170ºC. Allow to cool to room temperat ure and remove from the cake mould. Dust it slightly with the curry powder and put to one side.

To make the whisky ice cream: 500ml Double Cream 500ml Semi-Skimmed Milk 12 sieved egg yolks (By removing the membrane of the yolk, it preserves the richness but removes the “eggy” taste) 200g caster sugar 200ml good quality whisky Cream the yolks and sugar in a large baking bowl until they reach a light creamy colour and custard-like density. Gently heat up the milk and cream together in a large heavy bottomed saucepan, until boiling point. Allow to cool for 5 minutes, then, carefully combine the yolk and sugar mixt ure with the hot milky cream in small yet regular amounts, whisking constantly, making sure it is warm but not boiling – otherwise the eggs will cook.

Bring this mixt ure back to the heat and allow it to cook on a low heat until it thickens and has achieved a rich, creamy consistency. Do not let it boil. Remove from the heat and pass the mixt ure through a sieve (to remove any potential lumps) and collect in a bowl. Now add the whisky. Allow to cool and place the mixt ure into an ice cream maker. * Alternatively, you can buy a ready-made ice cream and incorporate the whisky in the chocolate sauce.

To make the chocolate sauce: 250g Good quality Dark Chocolate with at least 60% Cocoa 250ml Water 75g Caster Sugar 75g Butter at room temperat ure Break up the chocolate into small pieces and put to one side. H eat the water in a heavy bottomed saucepan and dissolve the sugar into it stirring well. Add the pieces of chocolate in small amounts and stir constantly until everything has melted together. Allow to reduce without bringing it to the boil, until the mixt ure is approximately half of its original size. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. When the mixt ure has achieved room temperat ure, add the butter and whisk thoroughly until smooth and glossy. With a spat ula, empty onto a silicone baking tray, ensuring it is evenly distributed and place in fridge for half an hour.

To Serve: Chilli Oil to taste Baby R ocket Leaves (to garnish) Dust a sprinkling of Curry powder onto the plate. Remove chocolate from fridge and using a large cookie cutter, create large circles of semi-solid chocolate. Carefully remove and place on warmed plates.

Cut the cake into generous slices and place in centre of the melting chocolate bed. Add a scoop or two of ice-cream and garnish with baby rocket leaves. Drizzle with chilli oil.

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THE LUSTRE REVIEW From Spa days to Steak Houses – Lustre is committed to finding you the very best. Each issue we shall forfeit our waistlines and wallets in order to unearth the latest trends and hottest fads on your behalf. And we decided to begin with the latest food craze sweeping the capital.

A far cry from nouvelle cuisine and a mile away from menus that come with footnotes and indexes – this season it’s all about simplicity,

BURGER & LOBSTER Burger & Lobster 29 Clarges Street London W1J 7E (020 7409 1699)

This hot Mayfair restaurant has queues round the corner every day and serves just three dishes – a whole lobster, a burger or a lobster roll, each for £20, and all come with chips and salad.

You can top-up your burger with cheese and/or bacon, and that’s pretty much it. They don’t even have a menu. It has a simple, masculine decor of red leather seating, bare light bulbs and wooden panelling. There’s room for a few dozen tables along with a few stools at the bar, which has an extensive selection of cocktails and wine.

We dived straight into the lobster roll and were instantly hit by the fresh, warm and firm flesh squeezed into a buttery brioche roll that was perfectly crispy on the outside and fluffy within.

Although a side of melted butter (plain or garlic) is provided, we found the sweet, slightly creamy mayonnaise already dabbed onto the lobster the only accompaniment necessary. It’s a touch on the small side, but overall it’s simple and delicious.

The burger meanwhile comes with a skewered lid to hold the beast together. Also sticking out of the top bun is a little plastic medium-rare marker. This might be a bit Nando’s, but we tried not to be influenced too much by a tiny flag. The meat was lightly seasoned, melt-in-the-mouth and perfectly medium-rare ( as the little flag told us it would be). Our teeth went through it like butter - absolute perfection.

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BubbleDogs Bubbledogs 70 Charlotte Street London W1T 4QG (020 7637 7770)

doing just one thing and doing it well. Taking their cue from American cuisine, restaurants in London are drawing inspiration from what is known across the pond as “pig out spots”: places that serve unashamedly good comfort food.

This is where – you may have guessed – they’re serving up the unusual combination of hot dogs and champagne. In the kitchen you’ll find James Knappett (previously of Noma, Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley and The French Laundry at Harrods) and his wife, Sandia Chang (who has worked at The Ledbury, The Berkeley, Noma and Per Se).

A menu consisting entirely of hot dogs shouldn’t require a great deal of deliberation, yet there are 13 varieties on offer, dressed up with on-trend toppings, and all available in pork, beef or veggie editions. Among the most appealing are the “Buffalo” (deep-fried and served with buffalo sauce), the “New Yorker” (sauerkraut and onions), and the “K-Dawg”, (red bean paste and kimchi). Others, such as the “Trishna”, provoke an involuntary shudder. Whoever looked at a hot dog and thought, “What this needs is some mango chutney”?

Our order arrived at fast-food speed, and in fast-food containers: a red plastic basket for the dogs, and cardboard trays for the side orders. The cutlery is plastic and so bendy it obliges you to use your fingers. Not so easy in the case of the “Sloppy Joe”, covered with chilli, cheese and onions. We were thankful that the Masterchef cameras weren’t on hand to capture the not-entirely-ladylike scenes that followed. The sausages have an authentic burst and bite to them. But we found they didn’t partner terribly well with champagne. A side helping of “tater tots” – crunchy, hash-brownish potato barrels – proved a better match, but perhaps that’s just because of the historic association of champagne with slightly underwhelming finger food.

Bubbledogs isn’t a restaurant, and it certainly isn’t the place to come for a lingering lunch and a proper chat. It’s a wine bar – or, more specifically, a champagne bar – with some rather nice hot dogs attached. Still, it’s completely unique and more than just a bit of fun.

We valiantly took up the challenge: an arduous task searching the capital for the most authentic American restaurants serving the finest all American food. We know, it’s a tough job.

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Pitt Cue Co.

The same queuing policy held at MEATliquor applies to Pitt Cue Co, a tiny restaurant in Soho where we waited for more than two hours on a recent Tuesday evening and still didn’t get fed. That was almost it for us, but the reviews from friends have been so good, we decided to give it another go.

Pitt Cue Co. 1 Newburgh Street London W1F 7RB (020 7287 5578)

Pitt Cue, which also started life as a food truck, is a barbecue restaurant – a real one, not a place where they paint any old piece of meat in a sweet and cloying sauce. One chef previously worked for Adam Perry Lang in New York, while another was with Brett Graham of the Ledbury in London.

The menu is small, as is the venue, which seats 18 in the basement and eight on the ground floor (and now we know why we waited for so long…). There are daily specials as well as the five mains, which include pulled pork, house sausage and beef ribs. Each comes in an enamel tray with a hunk of bread and a side.

We’ve never tasted barbecue as good - one reason must be the quality of the meat. The beef was 28-day North Devon from ‘Cornwall in Your Kitchen’, which supplies a handful of leading London restaurants. The other is the care, dedication and experience of the chefs. The smoky depth of flavour was striking, while the underlying sweetness was far removed from the sugary assault you can encounter elsewhere. The meat is cooked to the point of softness, without sacrificing texture.

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We ate at 2:30 p.m. when there was no waiting time. The basement is stark, the tables squashed together. The service was friendly and efficient. There are craft ales and bourbon-based cocktails, not to mention desserts such as sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel bourbon sauce, bourbon sultanas with Armagnac and prune ice cream. As the saying goes, heaven come for those who wait. And indeed it came.

MEATliquor MEATliquor 74 Welbeck Street London W1G 0BA (020 7224 4239)

The message on the website at MEATliquor, a wildly popular speakeasy-style venue near Oxford Circus, is refreshing yet rather daunting: “Qing policy is straightforward and we believe fair: If there is a Q when you arrive, you join the end of it. NO exceptions.” Does this means no-frills burger bar? Or several hours in the cold and rain just to get a bite to eat?

MEATliquor started out as a food truck in a car park, and then turned into a pop-up venue called MEATeasy before landing on a corner near Oxford Street. Burgers are the specialty with cocktails costing roughly £7 a pop.

There’s a choice of about 10 dishes, including the “Dead Hippie”, featuring their special “Dead Hippie” sauce. While it contains mustard and chopped-up gherkins, the recipe is secret.

The meat is good, the texture appropriately loose, the surface nicely charred and the interior pink, telling you that the seasoning hasn’t just been thrown into the mix. The bun has a nice texture and the jumbo onion rings are crisp.

The dim lighting and loud music – from rock ‘n’ roll to bluegrass – are designed to attract young people and repel the “unyouthful” - we couldn’t read the menu in the dark and conversation was difficult. Next time, we’ll head down to MEATmarket, the older sister of the brand that has a nice ‘Covent Garden’ atmosphere in which we’ll certainly be able to exchange words without reaching for the hearing aids.

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stockists

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AND ONE L AST THING...

Ideas About Love and other things….

‘Demanding artist, selfish (her words) seeks an intelligent man with good sense of humour, probably not for sex because she’s going through the menopause and has lost the urge, but definitely for laughs and companionship.”– Tracey Emin tells it how it is.

“I want love, I want to spend my life with someone and do nice things and go on adventures, read books and have nice food and celebrate things. I don’t want to spend the rest of my life in the bedroom like some people who just go to bed and never get out again. I thought I had experienced love, and now I’m nearly 50 I’m saying, have I? Maybe I haven’t. Maybe I don’t know what love is; maybe what I thought was love was a kind of greed, or desire, or something. I think there are different kinds of love – that’s where I am at the moment. But I don’t think I’ve experienced it. I’d never experienced that kind of totally platonic love either. All the love I’ve experienced has always been a kind of a big deal, and now, as I get older, I realise that there’s this other great love out there.”

“I am going through the menopause and I have been for ages, it is a nightmare, an absolute nightmare.

It’s horrible. And I don’t look like that kind of person; you don’t put menopause on top of my head, it doesn’t associate with me. People don’t talk about it, but the menopause, for me, it makes you feel slightly dead, so you have to start using the other things – using your mind more, read more, you have to be more enlightened, you have to take on new things, think of new ideas, discover new things, start looking at the stars … just wake yourself up, otherwise it’s a gentle decline. For women, it is the beginning of dying. It is a sign: I’ve got to start using my brain more – I’ve got to be more ethereal and more enlightened.”

“I’d make a good friend, not mother. I’m too selfish.

I think a lot of mothers are selfish and they end up having children, but I don’t want to put some small tiny person through that. I don’t want to be Joan Crawford. I have friends who have adopted, and they had to radically change their life, their homes, the way they dressed – everything, to get through the adoption agencies. I am not going to change anything. I’m never going to have children, I’m never going to be a grandmother, I’m probably never going to get married. I’m nearly 50, and it is not happening. I’ve got too much on the other side now, and I understand that. You’re treated like a witch for feeling like this but I’m not a witch, it is just that I have chosen to do things in another way. It is not by accident.”

“I like David Cameron because I think he is fair compared to a lot of politicians in history, He’s in the centre. Probably more centre than someone in Labour, not mentioning any names, who’s actually Opus Dei – that is extreme right-wing thinking. I don’t understand why people can’t just try to get on in politics. I don’t understand why there’s so much disunity. I don’t understand why people can’t just say: ‘It’s a mess, let’s pull together.’ Why is everyone so angry with each other on everything? It’s so easy – if everyone relaxed and said we should work together, rather than against each other wouldn’t we get more stuff done?”

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