FOOD & DRINK
Pairing wines with barbecued foods Dave Anning has some summery suggestions Much has changed since I last wrote - welcome back! But locked down or living it up, we’ll all be firing up the barbecue this summer. After all, we’re British and reducing succulent meat and vegetables to charcoal is what we do at this time of year - sadly not much pairs with carbon, so keep an eye on that barbecue! You may recall sauces are critical because they have strong flavours you need to pair with - especially trendy hot sauces. With spice, red wine drinkers should look for something fruity and juicy like Sangiovese. The easier option is a cool, low alcohol white - maybe even a little sweetness to counter the heat. With sweet sauces a smoky Rioja or Pinotage are good red choices, while the best all-round white is probably Sauvignon Blanc, aromatic and with clearly defined flavours. Meat forms the basis of many barbecues. Primitivo has deep, dark fruit that can be so intense it gives an impression of sweetness despite being dry. It has enough tannin to balance both fat and strong umami flavours in stronger barbecued red meat such
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as beef (umami means savoury and salty). Don’t forget - the more crispy and flavoursome the meat, the more tannic the wine can be - big Cabernet Sauvignons and Cabernet-based Bordeaux can really shine - just watch the alcohol! With lighter (or less burned!) meat such as pork or chicken (when barbecued they’re similar for pairing purposes) drink lighter reds, or whites with body. Red lovers could consider Bonarda. Overshadowed by Malbec, Argentina’s Bonarda is more obviously fruity than its famous neighbour, and is great easy drinking - Merlot drinkers will love Bonarda! White fans should consider full-bodied Viognier or fresh, zesty Chenin Blanc. Don’t forget rosés. Hints of red fruit add a dimension, especially if you’re making a sticky sauce. Fish is challenging on the barbeque hence it often ends IN the barbeque - but can be delicious. The right wine will refresh your palate to appreciate those light, delicate flavours. Zippy Picpoul-de-Pinet works brilliantly and grows overlooking the sea. Grilling adds
flavour so you can also increase body and flavour - try to find an Appassimento Grillo from Italy. Vegetables, alone or on a kebab, become deeply flavoursome when seared, so you can drink more robust wine than you might think. White Bordeaux has a wonderful combination of aromatic, nicely balanced acidity from Sauvignon Blanc and softer, honeyed Chenin Blanc. Salads often have strong sauces too. For Italian dressing think Verdicchio, a Caesar dressing deserves a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc - and blue cheese dressing needs real acidity to cut through the richness - better hope the guests haven’t drunk all the Picpoul! Dave Anning
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