FROM BRANCH Talking plantation innovation with Steve Marshall

FROM BRANCH

Talking plantation innovation with Steve Marshall

Steve Marshall plants trees and believes in sustainability. With green thumbs the size of the Peninsula, this environmentally conscious man who makes things happen from the ground up likes to get his hands dirty. It’s been 35 years since he planted his first avocado tree down south. There have been many more since. Olive trees and grapes too. Basically, if there’s anything you need to know about growing avocados and olives well, Steve’s your guy.

Growing up in Melbourne, Steve decided early on not to follow in his lawyer parents’ footsteps. He wanted to be outside where he could breathe. Feel the salty air on his skin and plunge his hands into the soil. As a kid he spent weekends at his family’s farm in Shoreham, which solidified his affiliation with the region, and he went on to study agricultural science at Melbourne University. He planted his first avocado tree on the property in Shoreham in 1985. That turned into 40 trees being planted between the shrubby hazelnut trees his father Bill had already established, but because they were different varieties, not all of them thrived. The 20 that did grew into 100 avocado trees by the time 1992 rolled around.

Steve explains: “Mum Pam and Dad were hobby farmers. After planting those first trees I started my business putting in avocado plantations for clients in 1992 across the Mornington Peninsula. My

first commercial grove was planted in 1993. Some of those original plantations still exist in Flinders, Merricks, Main Ridge and Arthurs Seat. Over the years I think I’ve planted approximately 6000 trees, and maybe 4000 of them are still viable. We grow avocados slowly down here. Avocados in Queensland grow quickly and can be picked after just six months, while Mornington Peninsula avocados take a year to ripen. The trees usually fruit within two to three years up north but take five to six years to fruit on the Peninsula. We can harvest fruit from November through to April, which allows the fruit to develop a high oil content and a rich nutty flavour. The texture is smooth too. Up to 14 months’ growing is a long time but the flavour speaks for itself.”

Steve reckons avocados are the easiest tree in the world to kill, and you’ve got to get 99 out of 100 things right to make sure they survive and produce fruit. He continues: “An avocado tree can die within 36 hours if the soil water level comes up and there’s poor drainage. Then they’ll die if they don’t have enough water. It’s a delicate balance. I’ve killed a lot of trees trying to understand what makes them flourish. They are not like a lemon tree in your backyard that you can leave alone and still get fruit. Avocado trees don’t always do well by themselves. They seem to thrive in groups rather than as individuals. Because they evolved from stable climates like the West Indies and Mexico, they haven’t been great at adapting and they are susceptible to cold snaps.” Steve began selling his avocados in farmers’ markets, then to local fruit shops and restaurants, and now he sells them under the banner Peninsula Avocados, which is a co-operative right here in Main Ridge. Ninety-five per cent of all avocados grown on the Peninsula are processed here. Peninsula Avocados processed just under half a million fruit last season, and 70 per cent of the fruit is usually presold. This motivated agriculturalist and environmentalist innovator works across various properties in the region overseeing not only avocados but other horticultural crops. He was also a key figure in the creation of the local provenance brand MPP – Mornington Peninsula Produce – and advocates for it at every opportunity. He is also the designer of the Hinterland Environmental Water Scheme, which is currently undergoing a feasibility study to investigate the potential for the Peninsula’s hinterland region to be connected to a permanent supply of high-quality water. Steve continues: “The Peninsula is a complex region and the future of horticulture here depends on water supply. The true potential of the Peninsula to produce food is yet to be unlocked. We can grow anything here because of the maritime climate and the great-quality soil, but we need the water, especially with a variable future climate. I only farm half of our land because there isn’t enough water. Farming is evolving here and there are already around 40,000 olive trees planted. I help manage some of those olive groves. I’m taking new research on farming practices to the farmers, trialling it and seeing where it leads. Connecting the land with growing is a holistic thing. That’s what my wife Sarah and I teach to our kids Alexandra and Nicholas. Alexandra spent an hour putting seedlings into the ground the other day, just like my father showed me.” The future of growing on the Mornington Peninsula is just moments away. Let’s ensure we keep it that way. LIZ ROGERS

Photos courtesy Mick Taylor and Peninsula Avocados