FROM GRAIN Home-grown wheat that can’t be beat by Richard Cornish

FROM GRAIN home-grown wheat that can’t be beat

Jason Cotter and Emma Hicks grow some of the most highly regarded wheat in Australia right here on the Mornington Peninsula. They grow both modern and older varieties of wheat, selected for their ability to ripen and mature in cooler, wetter climates. Many are no longer used because most wheat is grown in hotter, drier parts of the country.

PHOTOS: RICHARD CORNISH

“Traditionally, wheat and other grains used in milling and flour production were grown close to the mill, which was close to where people made and baked their bread,” Jason says. “Here in Australia, wheat is often grown on country distant from where it is milled and consumed. Though growing wheat well outside the typical wheat belt has its challenges, it’s gratifying to produce grain and flour for a local market.”

Jason comes from a multi-generational Peninsula farming family and grows grain at Tuerong Farm, a stone’s throw from Yabby Lake Winery. He first sowed wheat to attract stubble quail so he could go hunting with his dog. What started as a hobby seven years ago has become a full-time profession. He soon learned he needed specific varieties of wheat to handle the Peninsula’s microclimate and headed to the Australian Grains Gene Bank in Horsham. Jason and Emma also collected and imported several lines through quarantine to better meet their requirements. They grow a dozen or so milling varieties at Tuerong and at another farm in Moorooduc.

“Variety and where a grain is grown really determines a marked difference in the flavour of the final product. This sense of provenance, especially in wheat flour, has already been picked up by artisan bakers. Soon our brewers and distillers will be following the global trend and will use local grains to make their beers and whiskies. I look forward to a Peninsula beer brewed with locally grown barley.”

The grains are planted in autumn and harvested from mid-December until January. The grains have a longer growing period than those in warmer climates, which helps develop more flavour. Emma says that for many years grain growers have not kept the end user in mind and failed to consider the thing that drives food buyers – flavour. Tuerong Farm flours are made from winter white, French red, spelt, triticale and emmer grains. Inclusive of more bran and germ than supermarket white flour, they are perfect for long, slow ferments to make old-fashioned breads and sourdough loaves. The long ferment breaks down the proteins and releases both nutrients and flavour, making bread that has a complex, almost nutty taste and is easier to digest than other breads.

You can buy the flours, and the very tasty pancake mix, less than a few kilometres from the farm at Tully’s on Moorooduc Rd and Torello Farm at Moat’s Corner, as well as Hawkes Farm at Boneo. “You can also buy loaves made from our bread at Main Ridge Baker, Mother Mary Bakery in Bittern and Millers Bread Kitchen in Mornington,” says Jason. “I am also looking for farmers wanting to grow these grains on their own Peninsula farms. Local grains are taking root, so to speak.”

RICHARD CORNISH