FROM MUSIC CITY TO MULE TOWN

Columbia, Tennessee's agricultural heritage is reflected in the annual "Mule Day," a spring affair. Opposite page: Get a panoramic view of Music City from Fort Negley.

Stops that make for a memorable road trip

BY WILLIAM HARWOOD

So you’re visiting Music City, a place with a bustling downtown, a picturesque river and a thriving livemusic scene. Craft breweries, chef-owned restaurants, artisan cafés and unique boutiques line the streets, many holed up inside historic buildings. What could possibly be better? Visiting two places with a bustling downtown, a picturesque river and a thriving live-music scene. The latter, of course, replete with all the attendant and wonderful things to see and shop, sip and sup. But still better: What if this other place was just a short ride from Nashville? An easy day trip, but one with some classy overnight options if needed? Well, good news folks. To Nashville’s south, just past some rolling hills, growing towns, mooing cows and peaceful pastures, such a place exists. It’s called Columbia, Tennessee—aka Mule Town.

Road trip!

Columbia lies just 53 miles from Nashville, but who’s in a rush? The art of the American road trip demands that the journey receive equal billing with the destination. So, to artfully arrive in Columbia, map out your route from north to south by visiting Middle Tennessee’s historic spaces and soaking in its rich flora and fauna.

Begin your journey by taking the high ground just two miles south of Lower Broadway. Nashville’s Fort Negley, atop St. Cloud Hill, is 623 feet above sea level—you’ll stand more than 250 feet above the surface of the Cumberland, high enough to see over the condos of The Gulch and behold burgeoning buildings ballooning beyond. During the Civil War, this location—then described as a “commanding eminence”—proved the best spot for the construction of the largest Union fort outside of Washington, DC.

During the Battle of Nashville in December of 1864, Fort Negley’s cannons helped keep the Confederates at bay. These days, Fort Negley serves as an outpost from which to view the battle for Nashville’s skyline.

FORT NEGLEY SERVING SUGGESTION: Dozen Bakery (open from 7 am Mon.-Sat., 8 am Sun.), at the base of the fort, is the perfect place to load up on artisanal breads, freshly baked sweets and made-to-order breakfast fare for your early morning picnic from the top.

Moving south on I-65, Davidson County recedes into the rearview mirror as Williamson County fills up the windshield. The iconic WSM tower (for more info, see the Grand Ole Opry feature on p. 41) is a not-be-missed

Clockwise from left: The WSM Tower; Ravenswood Mansion; a sculpture at The Factory at Franklin; Harlinsdale Farm.

landmark along the way. Then, exit on Cool Springs for the city of Brentwood’s Marcella Vivrette Smith Park. Brentwood is an affluent and booming satellite city of Nashville, loud with the gears of commerce; Smith Park is its calming oasis, 400 rustic acres of meadowy mellowness and sylvan serenity. Along with its six miles of hiking trails, the park features new playing fields, restrooms, picnic shelters and a playground. There’s also a paved bike path, wide and smooth and free of cars.

Smith Park is best known as the site of Ravenswood Mansion, named for the famous Tennessean Sam “Raven” Houston. Ravenswood was built in 1825 and is now a popular wedding venue.

SMITH PARK SERVING SUGGESTION: Sit in the chairs on Ravenswood’s porch and read a short story aloud to your friends.

The next stop south is The Park at Harlinsdale, a 200-acre homage to Tennessee’s popular Walking Horse, a riding horse with a distinctive, four-beat gait. While the park is still active in the development and promotion of the breed, other amenities have been added alongside its many stables and equestrian trails. One such feature is an expansive, four-acre dog park, providing woofies ample space to romp and play. There’s also a feature that kids will love, a three-acre pond for catch-and-release fishing. But don’t worry if you have to put your would-be lunch back into the water. If you’re hungry, The Factory at Franklin, with lots of food and shopping, is just around the corner.

THE PARK AT HARLINSDALE SERVING Suggestion: Catch a fish. Then go pat a dog.

A bit farther down, in charming Thompson’s Station, is Preservation Park. The halfway point between Nashville and Clarksville, this 200-acre park was the site of the Battle of Thompson’s Station during the Civil War. In March of 1863, more than 1,200 Union troops came down from Nashville seeking food for themselves and hay for their horses. They got captured instead, in a major Confederate victory. After the war, the land reverted to its natural state and is currently maintained as a preservation park. For those seeking to get a sense of Middle Tennessee’s past and a glimpse into its future, the high hill at Preservation Park has the view for you: rolling hills, fertile countryside and rapidly growing towns, both to the north and south.

PRESERVATION PARK SERVING SUGGESTION: Hike to the top of the grassy hill, stretch out and meditate. Or take a nap.

Left to right: Among Columbia, Tennessee's charms are boutiques such as Smith & York, restaurants such as Barino Italian Southern Eatery and classy digs such as Soireé on the Square.

The first stop in Maury County, just before the Columbia line, is Chickasaw Trace Park. It’s located along the Duck River, one of the most biologically diverse waterways in North America, providing a clean, free-flowing home to 50 species of freshwater mussels and 151 species of fish. The park itself is some 300 acres, ample room for amenities such as miles of trails for mountain biking and modern pavilions for picnicking. There’s also a boat ramp to put into the river should you wish to rent a canoe or two from one of the local rental services.

Chickasaw Trace is also home to the Derryberry Log Cabin. Built in 1803, Derryberry is on the National Register of Historic Places and is available for rent for groups of up to 25. Don’t worry, it’s been updated with modern amenities: heat, air conditioning, water and electricity. CHICKASAW PARK SERVING SUGGESTION: Play checkers on the Derryberry porch. Float on the river.

You have arrived inside Columbia city limits, home of the annual Mule Day celebration (which takes place every spring), a tradition stretching back to 1840. So now it’s time to hit the historic streets to check out the great food and drink being served up and all the cool stuff going down. A definite must is the Columbia Arts District with its one-of-a-kind finds and nearby Amy Montgomery Home, a boutique for the home, and Aubree P. Boutique, featuring stylish clothing and accessories. If it’s past 4:30 pm, then buona fortuna for you; Barino Italian Southern Eatery is there to help you pasta time away with Italian-fused, Southern flair while enjoying a glass of wine. Where else can you order smoked pork over penne in a spicy bourbon barbeque marinara?

Make sure to save time and room to also check out The Factory, a mid-20th century shirt factory-turned-21st century haven for artists and artisans and merchants. Here you’ll find purveyors like Fork of the South, a Southern-inspired general store and Nashville Tea Co., a modern tea house. Sit a spell and recover some strength for an evening stroll downtown. Columbia’s town square is vibrant with shops and pubs, from Smith & York, The Linen Duck and The Faded Farmhouse for clothes, jewelry and furniture to Muletown Coffee—which has plenty of beverages to fuel your exploration.

If it gets too late, or you party too hearty, Columbia has digs where one can crash classy. The Soirée on the Square, for example, is 3,700 feet of luxurious loft living in the heart of downtown. What better place for an unexpected overnight stay?