Where Magazine Berlin Nov 2017 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

NOVEMBER 2017

Exploring the capital's sporty side

PLUS SPECTACULAR VIEWS SEASONAL COMFORT FOOD

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

Berlin

CONTENTS

11.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Guide The best of Berlin SHOPPING

7 Editor’s Note 8 Hot Dates

Winter woollies to cuddle up with, from acclaimed Berlin designers.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from Alice Cooper to Cirque du Soleil and the first signs of Christmas.

SIGHTSEEING

War and peace sites for history buffs of all stripes.

8 18

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Indigenous Australian art and a cabinet of curiosities. DINING

Nothing hits the spot in the cold months like hearty, German comfort food.

66 My Berlin

Big changes (and some controversy) at the Volksbühne theater.

Also Inside

NIGHTLIFE

62 Ask The Concierge The city's concierges share their secrets on the city.

Passionate wine experts sourcing exceptional bottles just for you.

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Fighting the winter blues with simple good looks.

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Dine, drink, and dance at breathtaking heights.

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Peyton Siva and ALBA Berlin, photo by Camera4/Tilo Wiedensohler.

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Inside the court with Alba point guard Peyton Siva and Füchse player Fabian Wiede.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

14 What The Players Say...

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SEASONAL OMFORT FOOD

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18 From Way Up High

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Exploring the capital's sporty side

12 Berlin Gets Sporty

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NOVEMBER 2017

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WWW WHERETRAVELER COM

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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Where Now

ESSENTIALS

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONC ERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

Schiller The famed musician on Berlin as a stimulator of creativity.

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CHRISTMAS GARDEN, COURTESY OF CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN; PEYTON SIVA, COURTESY OF ALBA BERLIN; VOLKSBÜHNE, © ISTOCK; SPHERE RESTAURANT, COURTESY OF SPHERE RESTAURANT; DAVID BOWIE, COURTESY OF TASCHEN; SIEGESSÄULE © ISTOCK.

The Plan Let’s get started

www.wheretraveler.com 3

Experience great masterpieces. Already while driving to the ‘Museumsinsel’. Sometimes pure driving pleasure starts as soon as you turn the key. Visit www.porsche.de/drive to book your dream Porsche from the current model range or stop by our Porsche Drive location in Berlin, Franklinstrasse 32. Want to continue your journey? Porsche Drive is also available in Stuttgart, in Sylt or in Zug (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100 km) combined 2.5; CO₂ emissions combined 56 g/km; electricity consumption: combined in 15.9 kWh/100km

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M E B E R 2017

PORTRAIT by Thomas Hedrich/fotostudio-charlottenburg; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Sarah Bethke

WELCOME TO BERLIN

Inspiring Places

Let‘s go up!

Despite the 12 hours of darkness per day, at least at these latitudes, I've always found November to be an exciting month. Staying home feels nice and cozy, while outside, the city lights and the happy faces of the holiday shoppers create that unique feeling of anticipation that keeps your heart warm and your mind busy. After all, don't they say that anticipation is more important than the result? These are the days when my creativity is at its highest, and one thing I really like to do is hide away to plan my future adventures. My favorite hiding spots for this purpose are museum cafés, like the one inside the Jewish Museum. Good cookies, delicious New York bagels, and perfect cappuccino. But the very best thing is that it's housed in the museum's greenhouse-like Wintergarten, which gives it the perfect outdoorswhile-indoors feel – exactly what one needs when it's cold outside. But I've also recently discovered the Landgasthaus café inside the Domäne Dahlem farm/museum. Its modern, minimalist decor and the inventive menu made with home-grown ingredients create an interesting contrast with the centuryold barn the cafe resides in, as well as with the ancient farm outside. But I also find big, open views of the city really inspiring and relaxing, even more so if combined with a delicious meal. This month, Hilda Hoy rounded up the best restaurants with a view, from the revolving restaurant inside the TV Tower to a bar with views over the zoo. Turn to p. 18 to learn more. Enjoy! SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 7

HOT

DATES November in Berlin is filled with exciting things to do, from Cirque du Soleil performances and heavy metal to great storytelling and illuminated gardens.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

27 FROM MONDAY

The festive season officially opens with the first Christmas markets glittering all over the city. From winter sports at Potsdamer Platz to the beautiful setting at Gendarmenmarkt and nostalgic wares at SchloĂ&#x; Charlottenburg, there is ample opportunity to soak up the merry spirit with a GlĂźhwein to warm your hands. Find a full list on www.visitberlin.de.

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL

FROM WEDNESDAY

The world-famous Canadian circus troupe, characterized by fast, colorful shows of artistic perfection, takes a whimsical leap into the world of insects with their latest show Ovo. Creeping creatures in dazzling costumes and nature-themed backdrops are said to resemble a nest full of chaotic acrobatics and comedy. For five nights at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.

THE LUTHER EFFECT UNTIL SUNDAY

Last chance! By nailing his 95 theses onto a church in Wittenberg in protest against the excesses of the pope and the corruption of the Catholic Church, Martin Luther kicked off a change of monumental magnitude. To mark the 500th anniversary of the Reformation, the exhibition The Luther Effect at Martin-GropiusBau ponders the historical impacts, both positive and negative, of Protestantism. Closes on 5 Nov. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

BERLINER MÄRCHENTAGE

FROM THURSDAY

Fairytales are a lost cultural treasure, brought back to life by the Märchentage festival. This year, audiences will be enchanted with fairytales inspired by the power of love. Running until 26 November, the Berliner Märchentage features hundreds of events across the city. Check their website for readings and performances in English. www.maerchenland-ev.de

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

16 CHRISTMAS GARDENS FROM THURSDAY

Take a stroll through the sparkling fairytale landscape at Berlin’s Botanical Garden. Every evening for about eight weeks, the 1.5-km trail will surprise visitors with thousands of lights, colorful illuminations, and holiday-themed 3D figures. At the end, take a spin around the ice skating rink or huddle around the fire pits with a culinary treat. www.christmas-garden.de

RIVERDANCE THURSDAY

The legendary Irish dance show has fascinated audiences around the globe for more than 20 years. Focusing on the interplay of cultures, the repertoire ranges from traditional Irish folk to flamenco and breakdance. Get ready for dazzling costumes and an enthralling tempo at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

ALICE COOPER THURSDAY

Straight out of a horror film, the father of shock rock brings guillotines, poisonous snakes, chainsaws, and electric chairs onto the stage. Don’t miss Alice Cooper's No More Mr. Nice Guy tour at Tempodrom and his performance of classics such as Poison. It is sure to be a visually spectacular show. www.tempodrom.de 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

an afternoon Espresso Konzert at 1 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." Hear Swedish indie star José Gonzalez sing 2 at Funkhaus with the String Theory band. The cult post-rock band Godspeed You! 3 Black Emperor plays at Festsaal Kreuzberg. The Berlin Tattoo music festival fills Max4 Schmeling-Halle with bagpipes & drums. Cheese, glorious cheese... The Cheese Berlin 5 festival in Markthalle Neun is a tasty treat. For the 1st anniversary of Leonard Cohen's 6 death, a special tribute nite at Wintergarten. and former One Direction 7 Heartthrob member Harry Styles sings at Tempodrom. the soulful rock siblings of Kitty, Daisy & 8 See Lewis in concert at Columbiahalle tonight. du Soleil's stunning new show, Ovo, is 9 atCirque Mercedes-Benz-Arena until the 12th. Komische Oper stage hosts Satyagraha, 10 The the avant-garde opera by Philip Glass. the weekend at Hopfenreich, with 11 Celebrate Kreuzberg's biggest craft beer selection. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 12 For Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. to the haunting melodies of indie 13 Sway band Fleet Foxes at Columbiahalle. influential 1980s noise band 14 Catch Einstürzende Neubauten at Columbiahalle. the Staatsballett in moving modern 15 Admire choreography in tonight's Duato/Schechter. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 16 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. Gorillaz, the cool virtual band founded 17 See by Damon Albarn, at Max-Schmeling-Halle. your heart thumping with the rhythms of 18 Get the Tango Argentino show at Passionskirche. at Pierre Boulez Saal: Daniel 19 Today Barenboim on piano, son Michael on violin. the work of expressionist avant-garde 20 See artist Wenzel Hablik at Martin-Gropius-Bau. legend and 14-time Grammy winner 21 Jazz Herbie Hancock plays Admiralspalast. music producer Schiller promises 22 Electronic an electrifying show at Admiralspalast. rock musician Alice Cooper will thrill 23 Shock the crowds at Tempodrom tonight. in the holiday spirit with the Botanical 24 Get Garden's Christmas Garden light installation. boy super-goth Marilyn Manson debuts 25 Bad his 10th album tonight at Tempodrom. the 1st Advent Sunday at the charming 26 Mark Advent Market at Domäne Dahlem. 'Tis the season! Many of the city's Christmas 27 markets throw open their doors today. masterpiece opera, The Magic Flute, 28 Mozart's takes the stage at Deutsche Oper. indie band Wolf Parade is in town 29 Canadian to play a show at Kreuzberg's Bi Nuu venue. to the very danceable tunes of 30 Dance Hercules & Love Affair at Kesselhaus.

See listings for addresses and more info.

OVO: COURTESY OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; CHRISTMAS MARKETS: @ ISTOCK; KOENIG EDUARD VI. UND DER PAPST, UM 1575, COURTESY OF BERLINER FESTSPIELE AND MGB; MÄRCHENTAGE: COURTESY OF BERLINER MÄRCHENTAGE; CHRISTMAS GARDENS: © CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN; RIVERDANCE: COURTESY OF RIVERDANCE; ALICE COOPER, © ROSS HALFIN, COURTESY OF PR.

NOVEMBER

As twilight falls, the magic begins ...

BASED ON THE

ORIGINAL

„CHRISTMAS AT KEW“ IN LONDON!

NEW TRAIL

with 30 highlights and a great ice rink

16.11.17 - 07.01.18 BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN WWW.CHRISTMAS-GARDEN.DE

Tickets are available at as well as at the box office at the Botanical Garden Berlin or ar any established ticket agency. *(EUR 0.20 / call from a German landline / a maximum of EUR 0.60 / call from a German mobile line)

Where now | SPORTING BERLIN

BERLIN GETS

SPORTY

Solveig Steinhardt is ready to attend some good games this season.

ermany's World Cup victory in 2014 has brought a new dose of selfesteem to German soccer. Mind you, it's not like die Mannschaft really needed one; after all, Germany has always been one of the globe's feared football teams. But if there's one thing World Cup victories do to countries, it's injecting a general optimism into everything, starting of course from the sports world. As the location of global sports events such as the 1936 Olympics, known as "Hitler's Olympics" for their role in Nazi propaganda, as well as the 2006 FIFA World Cup, Berlin has always had a close relationship with sports, though not without struggle. The whole Cold War period and the city's division inhibited the growth of the city's most important teams, which remained isolated from the rest of the country for almost 50 years. Berlin's sports scene has yet to fully recover from that, but things have been getting better in last decade: The city can now count on the

12 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Bundesliga successes of the Hertha soccer team, and on those of its second-division rival, FC Union. And while the two teams score goals around Germany, the city's sports fans flock to Mercedes-Benz Arena, home to both the ALBA Berlin basketball team and the Eisbären ice hockey champions, or to Max-Schmeling Halle, where the Füchse handball team regularly plays.

to win the Bundesliga championship, their fans are some of the most passionate in the country. Hertha's rival, FC Union, is known for its more politicized, left-leaning, super-loyal fans who follow the team in all of its endeavors, most of which have recently occurred in the second and third tier of the Bundesliga. Right now, Union is in the The LTTC Rot-Weiss second Liga, and plays Tennis Club in Dahlem its games at the Stadion (www.rot-weiss-berlin.de) has Hertha vs Union An der Alten Försterei in hosted some international The city's oldest and most tournaments featuring Köpenick. The fans are so renowned football club, champions such as committed to the team that Steffi Graf. Hertha BSC, has been around every December they get since 1892. Despite hailing together by the thousands to sing from the affluent Charlottenburg Christmas carols at the stadium for 90 neighborhood and calling the world-famous minutes, even when there's no game! Olympic stadium its home, the white-andblue team has never been too much of a threat on a national level, only rising up from AlbatrosS, polar bear, fox years of second Liga in 2008. Now they're in Eight-time German champion ALBA Berlin, the top league, and though they have yet also known as the Albatrosses, is the most

LIKE TENNIS?

olympiastadion: © istock; exhibition photos: courtesy of ephraim-palais; die Füchse: courtesy of die füchse.

Left: The Olympic Stadium; This photo: an ALBA game. Below: the Füchse handball team. Bottom of the page: Photographs from the exhibition Hauptstadtfußball, 125 years of Hertha BSC and its Local Rivals at Ephraim-Palais.

GAMES THIS MONTH Hertha BSC (Olympiastadion) 18 Nov, 6:30pm: Hertha BSC vs Borussia M'Gladbach Tickets: www.herthabsc.de/en/tickets FC Union (Stadion an der Alten Försterei) 4 Nov, 1pm: FC Union vs FC St. Pauli Tickets: www.fc-union-berlin.de

successful German basketball team and also known for its huge fan base: With an average of more than 10,500 spectators per game, it recently set a new German record for number of fans in basketball. Founded in 1991, the team is now in its 27th season, and shares its home stadium, the Mercedes-Benz Arena, with the Berlin Eisbären hockey team. Highly successful in the Deutsche Eishockey Liga, the Eisbären team was founded in East Berlin in 1954 and won the GDR's ice hockey championship 15 times before reunification. Their games are fast, loud, and highly entertaining.

EXTRA TIME For a good overview of Berlin's soccer scene and its history, do not miss the exhibition Hauptstadtfußball, 125 years of Hertha BSC and its Local Rivals, on all month at Ephraimpalais (www. stadtmuseum.de).

Berliners are also very passionate about handball, a team sport where seven players pass a ball by hand to score in the other team's goal. The city's handball team, Füchse Berlin (or "foxes"), plays its home games at the Max-Schmeling Halle, dubbed "Fuchsbau" ("fox den") by the team's supporters. Since winning their first major trophy in 2014, the DHB-Pokal, the Füchse have become widely popular in Berlin, and attending one of their games is a great way to get a glimpse of Berlin's passion for spectator sports.

ALBA (Mercedes-Benz Arena) 1 Nov, 8pm: ALBA BERLIN vs. Lietuvos Rytas Vilnius 5 Nov, 3pm: ALBA BERLIN vs. FC Bayern München Tickets: www.albaberlin.de Eisbären Berlin (Mercedes-Benz Arena) 3 Nov, 7:30pm: Eisbären vs. Iserlohn Roosters. 17 Nov, 7:30pm: Eisbären vs. ERC Ingolstadt 24 Nov, 7:30pm: Eisbären vs. Düsseldorf EG 26 Nov, 7:30pm: Eisbären vs. Adler Mannheim Tickets: www.eisbaeren.de/tickets FÜCHSE BERLIN (MAx-schmeling Halle) 9 Nov, 7pm: Füchse Berlin vs. HSG Flensburg- H. 26 Nov: Füchse vs. HSG Melsungen Tickets: www.fuechse.berlin

w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 13

WHERE NOW | SPORTING BERLIN

LOCAL SPORTS STARS SHARE THE SECRETS OF THE GAME ALBA Berlin point guard Peyton Siva (27) made the move from Louisville, Kentucky, to Berlin.

What do you like about Berlin? It's hard being away from home, but I feel comfortable here. I love how clean it is, and that everybody is so friendly. Also, Berlin is perfect for families, it's great for kids. At every corner there's a playground. I really enjoy it and my family really does too. What are your strengths on the court? My quickness, but also the ability to get everybody involved, getting the others to the right places and passing them the ball. Your typical day? Practice starts at 9am. After that I go home, take my (6-monthold and

3-year-old) daughters to the park, come back, watch TV with them, then go to practice again, get back home at 7pm, and repeat all that the next day. But I also love trying out different restaurants. Apart from the more American ones like Hard Rock Café (Kurfürstendamm 224, www.hardrock.com), I like a place called Benedict (Uhlandstr.49, www.benedict-breakfast.de) for breakfast, or Que Pasa (www. quepasa-berlin.de) for Mexican. Where do you take visitors? I like to show them around the city, taking them to places like Checkpoint Charlie, or the Mercedes-Benz Arena, where we play. They just love seeing how big and diverse the city is. What do you miss about home? Just some family and friends, and fast food restaurants. But I must say, food is healthier for me here. It doesn't have all that added sugar. What role did sports have when you were growing up? Sports have kept me away from the street and out of trouble. Basketball has taught me discipline, which also helped me in school. It's taught me a lot of life lessons.

Füchse player Fabian Wiede (23) on what makes handball an exciting sport. What's the greatest thing about handball? What makes it so exciting and interesting is that it's so multifaceted. You need to be very athletic, as you are constantly running, and you also need good endurance power. And since it's a game in which you score many times, things can change fast. My best moment with the Füchse was when we won the DHB-Pokals in 2014, when I first started here. A fabulous experience. How do you like Berlin? Berlin has everything. There's so much to see and you need a lot of time to see it all. I've been here nine years, and I feel that there's still a lot to discover. Typical day? My typical day is actually rather boring. I get up early and go to practice. After that I eat something, then go back to

14 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

our training hall and practice more. In the evening I am just happy to sit on the couch and do nothing. Where do you take your visitors? Definitely the TV Tower and Brandenburg Gate. Together with the Reichstag, these are the most important sights in Berlin. Why are sports important? They say sport connects people, and it's true. There are lots of players from abroad in our team, and through sport we help them integrate while we learn about their culture. It's fun, and also important. Advice for someone who's just getting started? It is a truly inspiring experience to measure yourself with professionals. Always believe in yourself and stay focused on your objective.

PEYTON SIVA: COURTESY OF ALBA BERLIN; FABIAN WIEDE: COURTESY OF DIE FÜCHSE.

This is your second season in Berlin. What's the best thing about playing for ALBA? I love the culture they've created. I play with a great group of guys that you can hang out with anywhere and anytime. And we have very passionate fans. In Louisville we had 22,000, while here we have about 10,000 fans who are just as loud and passionate as the 22,000 back home. You can see they really live and die for their team, which is awesome to see in a sport like basketball.

WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

FANTASTIC GIFTS It’s never too soon to start shopping for the holidays.

A Bowie photo book Taschen Store, Schlüterstr. 39

A striped scarf to forget the gray skies Codello Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35

Chanel gold Karstadt Kurfürstendamm 231

Yellow gloves to keep hands warm and classy Marc Cain Kurfürstendamm 69

A necklace inspired by the night sky LAPPONIA Jens Richard, Kurfürstendamm 63

Counting down the hours... Lilienthal Charlottenstr. 2

The better to see you with Mykita BIKINI Mall, Budapester Str. 45

Feet à la Mondrian UNISA Luccico, Neue Schönhauser Str. 18

Pure leather luxury Tiger of Sweden Kurfürstendamm 29

Audio perfection Sennheiser Tauentzienstr. 17

Canine keychains Marc Cain Kurfürstendamm 69

16 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

A Dutch city bike from the future Van Moof Schliemannstr. 23a

Welcome to our Christmas World OUR OPENING HOURS IN NOVEMBER 2017: Mon - Wen 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Thu - Sat 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

O P E N O N S U N D AY 5 th 1:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.

OUR OPENING HOURS IN DECEMBER 2017: SPECIAL OPENING HOURS Dec 1st - 23 rd 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Dec 27 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. th

O P E N O N S U N D AY Dec 3 rd & 17 th 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

172907

Dec 28 th - 30 th 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Kรถln

BERLIN, ALEXANDERPLATZ P

Underground car park at Alexanderplatz (open 24 hours a day)

WHERE NOW | DINING WITH A VIEW

FROM WAY UP

HIGH Hilda Hoy pushed aside all fear of heights to check out the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest, most stunning views for dinner, drinks, and even dancing.

18 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

SKYKITCHEN: COURTESY OF SKYKITCHEN; HOUSE OF WEEKEND: COURTESY OF HOUSE OF WEEKEND; MONKEY BAR: COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTEL; SOLAR SKY LOUNGE: COURTESY OF SOLAR SKY LOUNGE; SPHERE RESTAURANT: COURTESY OF SPHERE RESTAURANT.

here’s nothing quite like the thrill of being really, really high up. Besides the sublime grandeur of the view, this perspective gives us a whole new outlook on the world around us, quite literally broadening our horizons. And while Berlin doesn’t have the record-breaking skyscrapers of, say, Dubai or Shanghai, there are nonetheless a number of high-up hotspots where you can dine, drink, and dance at breathtaking heights. The newest high-flyer on the scene is Golvet (Potsdamer Str. 68, www. golvet.de), which just opened this spring and is already drawing rave reviews. The restaurant took over the location of the former 40seconds club, where wraparound windows deliver a panoramic view across Potsdamer Platz that is so impressive, you won’t even realize you’re no higher than the 8th floor. Chef Björn Swanson earned a Michelin star at his last posting at the rural Gutshaus Stolpe restaurant, which is a good indication of how ambitious and high-caliber his culinary handiwork is. Sustainably sourced ingredients and impressive flavor pairings are cornerstones of the Golvet concept, whether as part of a six-course prix-fixe feast or à la carte. Not far away is also Solar (Stresemannstr. 76, www.solarberlin.com), another modern tower with a penthouse gastronomic hotspot. A glass-walled elevator zips guests up the façade of the building onto the 16th floor, where a stylish restaurant awaits, delivering a captivating 270-degree panorama view. Choose from dishes that are modern and refined yet down-to-earth, like lightly smoked mackerel with artichoke hearts and grapefruit, or a crisp fillet of Arctic char with a black rice chip. After dinner, climb the spiral staircase up to the Sky Lounge for

cocktails and to dance the night away to live DJ sets. You’ll have to go to the other side of the city to find Skykitchen (Landsberger Allee 106, www.skykitchen.berlin), but the ride out to Lichtenberg is well worth it – and the dining experts behind the Michelin Guide agree, having awarded the restaurant a Michelin star back in 2014. Located on the 12th floor of Andel's Hotel, Skykitchen delivers marvelous views of the cityscape alongside the stellar food. Chef Alexander Koppe takes inspiration from Berlin’s local cuisine, adding modern flair and a generous dash of international influence. For a true splurge, there’s the 11-course tasting menu – followed by a nightcap in the Skybar, two floors higher and with even greater views. The buzzing, boho-chic Monkey Bar (Budapester Str. 40, www.monkeybarberlin. de) is another hotel penthouse, this one right in the center of town with a view onto the sprawling green treetops of Tiergarten Park and the zoo – try to catch a peek at the cheeky monkeys swinging in their

THE TV TOWER

No summary of Berlin’s greatest views would be complete without a mention of the famed Fernsehturm, or TV Tower, the capital’s tallest structure (and most recognizable landmark) at 368 meters. Sitting about 63 stories up, the Sphere Restaurant at the top is as high as you can go, and slowly revolves as you dine to turn a full 360 degrees once an hour. Book a restaurant ticket online, which lets you skip the lines at ground level and reserves you a window table up top. The standard tower entrance ticket grants you access to the bar, where you can sip something strong to ward off the vertigo. www.tv-turm.de

Opposite page: the view from Skykitchen. Above: Monkey Bar; This photo and inset, left: Solar restaurant; Below, left: Sphere restaurant inside the TV Tower; Below, right: House of Weekend.

enclosure below. When the weather’s fine the lineup can start forming by mid-afternoon, but once you get upstairs, you’ll understand the hype. The NENI Restaurant on the other end of the penthouse level is a great spot for casual Mediterranean cuisine, while the bartenders at Monkey Bar mix a mean cocktail. The spacious terrace is a perfect spot to catch the sunset or admire the twinkling lights of the nighttime cityscape. To dance until sunrise at the top of the city, head to Alexanderplatz and ride the elevator up to House of Weekend (Alexanderstr. 7, www.houseofweekend.berlin), the new incarnation of the Weekend club that’s been welcoming partiers at this location since 2004. On club nights the two dance floors thud with house, techno, and hip hop music until the wee hours of the morning, but don’t miss taking a break on the 17th-floor rooftop terrace, or Roof Garden, for a stunning birdseye look at the city. The glass barrier grants unobstructed views across Alexanderplatz and beyond, with an up-close angle on the TV Tower as you’ve never seen it before.

w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 19

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Lala Berlin; The Knit Kid; Sabrina Weigt; Maiami. Inset, below: The Knit Kid.

Winter Woollies It’s time to rotate your wardrobe again, pulling out the winter woollies that will keep you cozy and protected from the bitter chills outside. But if you’re bored from last year’s winter wardrobe and wish to add some snuggly knits to your selection, be sure to visit these addresses for a revamp. There’s no better way than a trip to Maiami (www.maiami.de) to prepare for sweater weather. This Berlin-based knitwear label is the creation of designer Maike Dietrich and specializes in colorful, thick mohair and virgin-wool sweaters, cardigans, scarves, and hats. The oversized, obviously handcrafted look was quickly swept up in the global knit trend and is now sold in over 80 stores worldwide, including Berlin's luxury department store KaDeWe. Every piece is hand-knitted and unique, with Maike herself taking home a bagful of wool at the beginning of each season, flicking on a movie, and getting to work – together with her carefully selected 20 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

counterparts across Europe. In addition, Maiami offers "homewear", such as lampshades, pillows, and blankets to add warmth to your entire home. Designer Sabrina Weigt discovered the irresistible magic of the knitting stitch during her time at art school, and has been busy designing knitwear and accessories for her two fashion labels ever since. Step into The Knit Kid (www.the-knit-kid.de, Brüsseler Str. 22) for playful blocks of color and transitioning pastel tones, or visit Sabrina Weigt (www.sabrina-weigt.de) for a minimalistic, modern look that uses a more harmonious color scheme. Both labels were born out of her serious passion for knitting, working with materials such as cashmere, merino wool,

alpaca, mohair, and silk, together with a generous dose of curiosity. It’s hard to find a fashion label that epitomizes the Berlin metropolis better than lala Berlin (www. lalaberlin.com, Alte Schönhauser Str. 3 and Mulackstr. 7). Founded by former MTV Berlin editor-turned-designer Leyla Piedayesh, lala Berlin found fame with the launch of its urban-cool knitwear accessories. The printed cashmere scarves are still somewhat of a signature item, however, the label is no longer just about knitwear, but now also encapsulates the city’s avant-garde, bohemian style in a full range of products, incorporating vibrant patterns and striking prints into casual designs and elegant evening wear.

COURTESY OF THE KINT KID, SABRINA WEIGT, MAIAMI, LALA BERLIN.

When it's chilly outside, Annabelle Mallia cuddles up with knitwear.

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 63-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the www.wheretraveler.com 21

SHOPPING

Winter blues? Not with these striking pieces. 1. Catherine Berlin, Knesebeckstr. 35-37. 2. QVC, www.qvc.com. 3. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 4. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 5. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 6. Tom Tailor, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 8. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

8 7

22 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

9. Tom Tailor, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 10. Alfi, Karstadt, Schloßstr. 7–10. 11. Veja, L'Epheremere, Alte Schönhauser Str. 44. 12. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 13. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 14. Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48. 15. Tom Tailor, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 16. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

www.wheretraveler.com 23

SHOPPING

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www. galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione,

Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

ADVERTORIAL

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz. com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www. be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after 24 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

Bring this ad and get a

15%

discount!

designer depot – Mitte’s Outlet Boutique Turns 15! Few things in life are as exciting as finding the perfect designer item that fits perfectly and costs 50% off the tag price. At Designer Depot in Mitte you'll find factory outlet sales, inventory samples, and previous collections for men and women by more than 30 fashion designers. The owner focuses on Italian pieces, both casual and classy, and brands include big names like Moschino, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Versace, but also cool, young labels such as Gaëlle Paris, Guess, or Liu Jo. With so many styles and looks, there is something for everyone here. And to celebrate its 15th birthday, the store offers a 15% discount on many items. Bring a copy of this ad and claim your discount! Rochstr. 2. T: 030 28046700. Open Mon–Sat noon–8 pm. www.designer-depot.net

Schwarz-Weiß Diamant Kollektion

479 €

669 €

529 €

Black Diamond : 0.10 ct Diamond: 0.07 ct

Adresse: Leipziger Platz 12 Piazza 1.OG

www.arisdiamond.com Tel:030-55657982

SHOPPING U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since

gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www. wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando. de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

Shoes & Accessories

LUXURY B ra n ds AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

BREE

Floral coat by Annette Görtz. Markgrafenstr. 42. 26 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

For more than three decades, bag manufacturer BREE has stood for an intelligent symbiosis of design, function, and quality. BREE bags are useful, reliable and attractive at the same time, and the designs range from classic to contemporary and everything in between. Most BREE bags are made with natural leather, but the company is also the forerunner in the use of long-lasting synthetic materials, employed in the bike courier bags. www. bree.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.92218263. U Uhlandstraße. C4; KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.34394754. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Luxury mall Quartier 206 on Friedrichstraße.

le availab y l e v i tore Exclus BREE S in. r u o erl from all of B M e h t in

Punch Pro

PERFECTLY FUNCTIONAL whatever the conditions may be

BREE Store LP12 Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12-13 10117 Berlin

bree.com/punchpro

SHOPPING

sizing GUIDE shoes UK

clothes Euro

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

Outfit by CINQUE, Rochstr. 1.

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

6 8 10 12 14 16

Xs s m l

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Dainese Not only one of the most trusted names in motorcycle protective gear, Dainese is also the place to get kitted out for equestrian and winter sports. Their famed specialty is stylish, sleek, Italian-designed motorcycle wear such as jackets, boots, and gloves, bringing together durable, timeless leather with modern materials such as Kevlar and titanium. www.dainese.com. Hohenzollerndamm 12. T: 03029672222. U Hohenzollernplatz. C4

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern 28 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

8 9 10 11 12 13

34 36 38 40 42 44

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Jewelry & Watches ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www. wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

Boots by Red Wing Shoes. Check out the new store at Münzstr. 8.

2 4 6 8 10 12

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

Home Décor Home on Earth Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rosenthal One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art.

Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

FOOD & Gourmet Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA SUNDAY SHOPPING: 05.11 | 1 PM – 6 PM

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Bad Saarow Therme This thermal complex in the spa town of Bad Saarow offers various treatments including detox mud baths and massages, and has various indoor and outdoor pools. www.bad-saarow.de. Am Kurpark 1. Bad Saarow. T: 033631.8680. Off map

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum

Sei Du selbst.

ALEXACENTRE.COM

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Tropical Islands Built inside a former Soviet aircraft hanger about an hour from Berlin, this waterpark offers 26-degree temperatures and cocktails on the beach all year round. Explore the rainforest, tropical village, lagoon and sea, waterslides, and whitewater river. www.tropical-islands.de. Tropical-Islands-Allee 1, Krausnick. T: 035477 605050. Off map

Electronics This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

©istock

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ROLEX BOUTIQUE

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SENNHEISER STORE

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 / 13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose men's and women's jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

Savignyplatz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

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Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

MEINEKESTR.

Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com

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Beatrice creates opulent, bold, and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses, and dresses.

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Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

MEYER & NEHLS Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

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The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de shop stop

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Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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BABOR INSTITUT Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 33

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DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik Engelsrufer & Co.

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Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

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Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Berlin

A PLACE FOR

ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics. With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

BOOTS & SHOES With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Dr. Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus other brands such as Hunter and Converse.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com shop stop

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Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de shop stop

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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

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Lala Berlin Wolfen Germany Boutique Hoho Berlin E S S A M R V U OLKE STST Cotélac R LA LACKSTRA AUGU Greta S NG S tore SE & Luis Ka S T EIN Trippen tje S TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka Lie -O REBECCA HIRT B SOP en be hr ENS Skunkfunk HIE TRA Sh ski erm nd NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS 1 a n SE Trüffelschwein Ma vi Oakley Promobo MÜ Scotch & Soda Michael Kors NZ STR Ad MÜHLE Store Berlin MCM ASS ida As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s e k y Home on earth Bu ani kor KS kda designer depot a n y f f UN alo Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS HS C RO Onepiece Concept Store

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PROMOBO

KATJES VEGGIE CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

Sweets, Coffee & Vegan Bakery! This is the perfect place to try Katjes’ vegetarian-friendly & gelatinfree gummy candy range, enjoy homemade vegan treats with freshly squeezed juice or a steaming cup of coffee, and meet old and new friends in a lovely and welcoming atmosphere!

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.cafegruenohr.de 36 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

mavi.com

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: The Cecilienhof Palace; The Haus am Wannsee; Moltke Bridge. Inset: the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church.

War & Peace Annabelle Mallia is once again fascinated by the history that permeates Berlin. 1942, 15 high-ranking representatives of the Nazi government and SS met here to plan their so-called Final Solution, namely the deportation and extermination of Europe's Jews. Today, the villa is a museum and memorial to the victims. (Am Großen Wannsee 56-58, www.ghwk.de)

KAISER WILHELM MEMORIAL CHURCH This is one of the few spots in Berlin where the destruction of the war is still starkly visible. Damaged in an air raid in 1943, it was deliberately left in ruins and today serves as a reminder of the horror and destruction of war. (Breitscheidplatz, www. gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de).

HITLER’S BUNKER All that remains today of the final command headquarters of the Nazi regime and the venue of Hitler’s marriage to longtime girlfriend Eva Braun, shortly before they committed suicide, is a small plaque in a parking lot near the Holocaust Memorial. The bunker complex has been mostly destroyed and closed off to the public, but the significance of the spot can surely be felt.

HOUSE OF THE WANNSEE CONFERENCE This luxurious mansion on the banks of Wannsee Lake was the location of a conference with shattering consequences. In

SCHLOSS CECILIENHOF This was the last palace built by the Hohenzollern dynasty in 1915 and the place where the victorious Allied powers met at

38 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

the end of the Second World War to discuss the occupation and splitting of Germany. The Potsdam Conference, as it became known, was attended by the “Big Three”, i.e. none other than Josef Stalin, Harry Truman, and Winston Churchill. Combining cottage-style and Tudor Gothic chimney stacks, this is not your typical palace. (Im Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam) MOLTKE BRIDGE It's not listed on the tourist signs, so many people walk over this bridge every day not knowing the epic battle that happened here. The bridge connects Alt-Moabit near the main railway station to the Chancellery on the south bank, and is most famous for the intense firefight that took place during the Battle of Berlin in April 1945, when Soviet troops triumphed over German defenders and lay claim to the Reichstag, effectively marking the end of the war.

It’s been more than 70 years since the end of WWII and the signing of Germany’s unconditional surrender, but the consequences still haunt the country today. Berlin has since been almost completely redeveloped, but many sites still remain to remind us of the city's dark past.

SIGHTSEEING

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive

neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours

available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Parade Of Lights On 11 November, families all over Germany celebrate Martinstag to commemorate St. Martin, a kind-hearted Roman soldier said to have cut the cloak off his own back in half to share with a freezing beggar. The festivities usually include a church service recounting the story and consumption of the traditional goose, red cabbage, and dumplings, symbolizing the beginning of winter and the good harvest to come. Falling on the same night is the more secular Laternenfest, with processions of children holding glowing (and often self-made) paper lanterns and singing songs about St. Martin, often following a child dressed up as St. Martin on horseback. The chanting continues around a large bonfire at the end as well as the token breaking and sharing of bread. Soak up the good spirit in what is supposedly the city’s biggest procession starting at Luisen church on Gierkeplatz in the late afternoon and finishing at the beautiful Charlottenburg Palace.

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SIGHTSEEING Checkpoint Charlie

Only got a weekend to visit this fabulous city? Make the most of it with our quick guide! Day One AM - Start off with a free walking tour (www. originalberlintours.com), covering the city’s main attractions and history. For a nearby lunch, Berlin’s oldest quarter Nikolaiviertel (p.39) has many traditional dining options or the restaurant atop the TV Tower (p.39) on Alexanderplatz has great city views. PM - Spend the second half of the day discovering Berlin's artistic side at Museum Island, a UNESCO world heritage site and home to the mythical Nefertiti bust and Pergamon Altar. For a taste of Berlin's large Turkish community, head to Kreuzberg for dinner. Then end on a high note with a performance at the Berlin Philharmonic (p.56).

Day Two AM – Head west and walk along luxury shopping strip Ku'damm or through the royal gardens at the Charlottenburg Palace (p.39). When hunger strikes, Savignyplatz, former stomping ground of Berlin’s intellectual bohemians, has many restaurants from which to choose.

ON A Long Weekend... Got a bit more time? Venture into Grunewald forest and visit green Berlin and its many lakes. A loop around Krumme Lanke is a pleasant one-hour walk, followed by something to eat and drink at Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee (Fischerhüttenstr. 136) restaurant overlooking the adjoining lake.

40 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the East Side Gallery largest number of species and total While West Berliners loved to express animal residents in the world. The their creativity by drawing graffiti and aquarium, one of the largest in painting on the Wall, East Berliners Europe, features large tanks with were never allowed to use the piranhas, sharks, and alligators. dividing structure as a canvas. To In 1995, artist Christo Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or make up for all the artless years, wrapped up the aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s artists from 21 countries were called Reichstag in 100,000 free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium sq.m. of polypropylene upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin. fabric. the Wall's eastern segment with their de, www.zoo-berlin.de work, creating what is now known as the Hardenbergplatz 8. East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors

PM – Now head east and walk along the East Side Gallery (p.40), the largest remaining strip of the Berlin Wall turned into an openair art gallery. For dinner, make your way to Kollwitzplatz in the hip Prenzlauer Berg district surrounded by lovely cafés and restaurants. Afterwards, dance the night away to techno beats at the legendary Berghain (p.61).

online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Tours & Walks Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Berlin Weekend

During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Mobil mobil. Die VBB-App „Bus & Bahn“ mit Handyticket und Routenplanung. The VBB „Bus & Bahn“ app with mobile tickets and travel planner.

Abfahrtszeiten abrufen. Haltestellen finden. Tickets kaufen. Find departure times. Locate stops. Buy tickets. Infos unter +49 (30) 25 41 41 41, VBB.de / handyticket (dt.), facebook.com / VBB-App VBB.de / mobileticket (engl.), Download:

Bus&Bahn

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Robert Campbell Jr, Abo history; Yirawala Kundaagi, Red Plains Kangaroo; BoChristian Thompson, Heat.

The Art Of Native Australia Ask anyone what makes the me Collectors Room (p. 47) a unique exhibition space, and the answer will be its Wunderkammer, or cabinet of curiosities. Although science now proves that the cabinet’s resident unicorn horn is actually a narwhal tusk, the Wunderkammer’s 300-plus objects of nature, science, and the inexplicable from the Renaissance and Baroque eras still give current-day visitors a glimpse into the scientific knowledge of the past. But aside from the Wunderkammer, the gallery has a longstanding tradition of bringing diversity and representation into its special exhibitions, showcasing works by diverse artists, including non-Western ones. The newest exhibition is no exception. In partnership with the National Gallery of Australia, the jointly presented Indigenous 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia, opening on 17 November, focuses on Indigenous Australian art and aims to increase knowledge and recognition of the tens-of-thousands-year-old art tradition. Indigenous Australian art encompasses rock painting and engraving, bark painting, country landscapes, stone arrangements, wood carvings, and weaving and jewelry, all the while telling stories of the creation of life, known as "the Dreaming." Both traditional and contemporary works from over 60 artists are featured in the exhibition, with paintings being accompanied by videos, sculptures, and installation. Despite the sheer diversity of Indigenous Australian art, it is united by the Indigenous culture’s deeply ingrained

connection to the land. The collection’s varying mediums reflect change and upheaval in history. The early bark paintings are seen with earthy color palettes, while more contemporary works adopt Western media of acrylics and canvas, showing an increasing exchange with Western culture. Despite only a 33-year difference between 1962 and 1995, there is a stark difference between Yirawala’s bark painting Kundaagi – Red Plains Kangaroo, with its reddish-brown, earthy pigments on eucalyptus bark, and Emily Kame Kngwarreye’s wonderfully bright and warm canvas paintings. But ultimately, the great power of Indigenous Australian art also lies in its documentary ability, capturing Indigenous traditions and mythology amid ongoing social change.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM.

Serene Tseng steps into her favorite exhibition space and leaves with newfound knowledge on the world’s oldest art tradition.

Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. From 17 Nov: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Brücke-Museum – The Jubilee Exhibition. Paintings, Watercolors, Drawings, and Graphics of Artist Group Die Brücke. Celebrating the museum’s 50th birthday, featuring works from Die Brücke spanning Jugendstil, Impressionism, and Fauvism. Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

Deutsches Historisches Museum

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from The avant-garde building designed Berlin has more the Roman occupation of the by Walter Gropius is home to museums than rainy Germanic areas to the present day. documents, photographs, and days per year. To 15 Apr: 1917. Revolution. Russia and models illustrating the Bauhaus Europe. Exploring the 100 years since philosophy, which combines artistic the Russian Revolution and the changes it beauty with architectural functionality. brought forth. To 8 Apr: Craving For New To 13 Nov: Bauhaus in Motion. A focus on Pictures: From Broadsheet to Comic Strip. movement in design as well as Bauhaus’s physical A display of the vibrant history of graphics in relocation out of Weimar. From 15 Nov: New media. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). Bauhaus Chicago: Experiment Photography and Film. www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. Exploring the American leg of Bauhaus creativity. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. Deutsches Technikmuseum T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4 MUST SEE At the museum for all things

Bauhaus Archiv

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 28 Jan: Scholarship and Turbulence. Wolfgang Fritz Volbach, a scholar between the two World Wars. Celebrating Volbach’s 125th birthday and his dedication to Berlin’s museums. To 5 Nov: Syria Antiqua – Coins and Monuments on Museum Island. Showcasing coins from ancient Syria and artefacts of its prowess. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb. museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 28 Jan: Landscape Between Impressionism and Expressionism: Masterpieces by Hagermeister and Leistikow. Exploring the radical middle-ground between impressionism and expressionism. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tues, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 under 18s free. www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. 030 24002162. U Alexanderplatz E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 9 Oct: Winckelmann – The Divine Gender. Celebrating the influential and mysterious art historian Johann J. Winckelmann’s 300th birthday. From 2 Nov: Fascination Sex: The Theorist & Activist Martin Dannecker. Following the story of the critical theorist, in celebration of his 75th birthday. To 27 Nov: Kai Teichert: House of Joy. Collages and paintings made of human body details, hidden and exposed at the same time. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin Potsdamer Platz, Open daily 10 am – 8 pm deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Daily 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 19 Nov: Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party. Featuring Testino's fashion photos, Pigozzi's snapshot-like images of swimming pool guests, and a selection of Newton's own work. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 5 Nov: Sielmann! A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Dec: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de.

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s 500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. To 10 Dec: Ed Atkins. Old Food. Atkins's multimedia work, united under evoking a physical reaction. To 14 Jan: Wenzel Hablik - Expressionist Utopias. Featuring the expressionist avant-garde architecture and design paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovation in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, 44 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

Remembering The Resistance In the dead of summer on July 20, 1944, only months before the German WWII surrender, Colonel Claud von Stauffenberg and his collaborators attempted to assassinate Hitler and overthrow the Nazi regime. The attempt failed, and the officers were executed that night. Located at the site of the attempted coup, the German Resistance Memorial Center stands as a monument to the resistance against National Socialism. The memorial houses a permanent exhibition on the diverse resistance networks and fighters, as well as regular special exhibitions. Ongoing until 10 January, Our True Identity Was To Be Destroyed. The Children Consigned to Bad Sachsa After July 20, 1944 follows the punishment the officers’ children and family faced following the coup, including the children’s separation from their mothers and siblings and forced name changes and adoption. Stauffenbergstr. 13-14. T: 030.26995000. www.gdw-berlin.de

gdw ausstellung, cortesy of gedenkstätte deutsche widerstand.

Menschen Museum

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 26 Jan: Pictures of Comfort and Design: Carpets in Indian Miniature Painting. A glimpse into the essential courtly furnishing. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Berlin 1937 extuenntdiled18 iN The shADOW OF TOMOrrOW

25 .02.20

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Art galleries Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 3 Nov: Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here. Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. To 15 Jan: Jeanne Mammen. The Observer Retrospective (1910-1975). Highlighting the painter's works, encompassing Cubo-Futurism, Expressionism, and New Objectivity. To 26 Feb: Monica Bonvicini. 3612,54 M³ VS 0,05 M³. Berlin's University of the Arts alum returns for her first solo exhibition. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of artists like Nolde, Kirchner, Heckel, and many more. Open Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-HeleneHeim. Off Map

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 3 Dec: Willi Ruge . Fotoaktuell – Adventures

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES With the Photographers. Photographs 1919-1953. A retrospective of Ruge’s historical photography, painstakingly tracked down from numerous other agency and publishing archives. To 3 Dec: Danny Lyon. Message to the Future. Images of fifty years of social reality and political battles in America. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 25 Mar: Fahrelnissa. A retrospective of Turkish modernist Zeid's work. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 7 Jan: Jean Fouquet. The Melun Diptych. The two halves of the 15th century diptych is reunited for the first time in 80 years. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Embrace The Abstraction During the 20th century, Fahrelnissa Zeid blazed into the realm of modern art with her large-scale, boldly vibrant abstract works. Her pioneering style propelled her to international fame, and she influenced artists in Europe and the Middle East alike. Coming from a family of diplomats, Zeid moved between Istanbul, Paris, London, Berlin, Baghdad, and Amman, and this was reflected in her work’s nomadic undertones and varied stylistic influences. On show at the Deutsche Bank KunstHalle (p. 46), the eponymously-titled retrospective Fahrelnissa Zeid is the first major exhibition dedicated to her work, following her beginnings in Turkey, her participation in the Turkish avant-garde society d-Group, and her mastery of the abstract style. Until 25 March. 46 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 12 Nov: Awst & Walther. Be Water. The duo's exploration of the relationship of humanity and nature. From 19 Nov: : Emil Cimiotti. Retrospective. A celebration of the pioneer of Abstraction's 90th birthday. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 14 Jan: Preis der Nationalgalerie 2017. Works from this year's award nominees. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Fahrelnissa Zeid, someone from the past, 1980. © raad zeid all-hussein.

Georg-Kolbe-Museum

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Exhibitions closed for renovations until June 2018. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” From 17 Nov: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin. com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21. T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2

For Explorers!

Sammlung Scharf Gerstenberg The Scharf Gerstenberg collection now houses three floors of works by Surrealist painters, such as Klee, Max Ernst, Dali, and Dubuffet. Open Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries Sandau & Leo Galerie, to 18 Nov: Harald Metzkes (Malerei), Robert Metzkes (Terrakotta-Figuren): Human Comedy. Tucholskystr. 38. www.sandau-leo.de; Galerie Springer Berlin, to 18 Nov: Peter Klare: Silver. Fasanenstr. 13. www.galeriespringer.de; Galerie Art Cru Berlin, to 24 Nov: Peter PadubrinThomys. Oranienburger Str. 27. www.art-cru.de; JRGallery, to 24 Nov: El Bocho. Goethestr. 81. www. jrgallery.de; Subjectobject – Art Involvement, to 25 Nov: Inga Altenkirch, Gerit Koglin: Conditions. Grunewaldstr. 79. www.subjectobject.de.

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

www.wheretraveler.com 47

DINING | THE GUIDE

Top left: A pot of Szegedin goulash from G wie Goulasch (above). Below left: the interior of St. Mauli. Below right: Maultaschen at St. Mauli.

Cold-Weather Comfort Food Now that it’s November, there’s no more denying it: The cold season is upon us. This is the time of year when nothing hits the spot quite like hearty, carb-heavy, stick-to-your-ribs meals – comfort food to fortify a person against the icy winter winds. Luckily, this happens to be something at which German cuisine excels. So when the temperature drops and your stomach growls, head to these places for goulash with dumplings, roast game, or noodles drenched in melted cheese. Overlooking a charming corner of Kreuzberg’s Bergmannkiez neighborhood, G wie Goulasch (Chamissoplatz 1, www.gwie-goulasch.de) is so laid-back and cozy, it almost feels like you’re at a friend’s house for dinner. The space is small and so is the menu, which has just a handful of delectable goulash dishes at a time, seasonally inspired and featuring beef, veal, boar, and more. Each batch is stewed for hours to let the flavors meld and the meat get nice and tender, then 48 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

served with homemade noodles, dumplings, or potatoes. There’s always something for vegetarians too, which may be meat-free but no less delicious. A selection of Belgian beers offers the perfect accompaniment. One of the most popular exports of Germany’s southwest Swabia region is its noodle-y comfort food, like Maultaschen, which are something like oversized meat ravioli. Head to St. Mauli (Gryphiusstr. 10, www.st-mauli.de) in Friedrichshain to try their top-quality, homemade Maultaschen, either browned with plenty of butter and topped with slow-cooked onions, or cut into strips and fried until crisp. They make tofu Maultaschen as well, which Swabian grandmothers wouldn’t approve of but local vegans definitely do. Another Swabian delight is Spätzle, chunky egg noodles traditionally served with lots and lots of melted cheese. Spätzle Club (Seydelstr. 2, www.spätzleclub.de) is a bustling lunch spot just off Mitte’s central tourist areas that serves

huge portions of homemade Spätzle noodles made in house the traditional way. Besides the classic cheese version, make your noodles even tastier with add-ons like spinach, bacon, sauerkraut, or even mushrooms. Roast goose and duck are wintertime favorites in Germany. The classy yet relaxed AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt (Französische Str. 25, www.aignergendarmenmarkt.de) has all sorts of AustrianGerman delicacies, from schnitzel to Königsberger Klopse veal meatballs. But I recommend the roast Brandenburg-region duck, served with creamed savoy cabbage, baked apples, and potato dumplings. Save room for the beloved Austrian pancake dessert called Kaiserschmarrn, fluffy, golden pancakes shredded into a messy but delicious heap and dusted with powdered sugar. AIGNER adds applesauce and ice cream for good measure. Loosen the belt a notch or two and dig in.

G WIE GOULASCH: © ANTAL BARBARA; ST. MAULI: © BULLAHUTH.DE

With winter around the corner, Hilda Hoy is craving the heartiest, most satisfying comfort food German cuisine has to offer.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

AUTHENTIC NORTH INDIAN CUISINE BEHRENSTRASSE 72 | 10117 BERLIN OPEN DAILY: 18.00 – 23.00 BOOK YOUR TABLE: +49 30 2062 8610 WWW.INDIA-CLUB-BERLIN.COM

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E42

Monday to Friday: 12.00 – 15.00 CET Monday to Sunday: 18.00 – 23.00 CET +49 (0) 30 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com The Grand Master Betriebs GmbH Hirtenstraße 4, 10178 Berlin

www.wheretraveler.com 49

DINING Tim Raue

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712.S Charlottenburg. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4 50 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit

€–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, prime river location. In the summer, the waterside allows diners to cobble together a meal terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the encompassing a wide range of tastes menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine and ingredients. Other location in sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dryRosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot Sonntagstr. 28. transforms into a club from 23pm. T: 030.26948415. S Döner Kebab was €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. Ostkreuz. Off Map invented by a Turkish com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 immigrant 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4 in Berlin Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai

Kreuzberg Adana Grillhouse

Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere. Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105. T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373.U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and

the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Sale e Tabacchi

Crackers

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter.

German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late.

www.spindlerklatt.berlin

Restaurant & Club m7 o r f y a d atur S o t y a d

Wednes

Kรถpenicker Str. 16/17 | Kreuzberg +49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60

DINING www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www. hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly

Since 1779, HABEL am Reichstag has stood for a timeless idea: the union of choice wines and satisfying regional cuisine in an atmosphere that is both homey and uncomplicated. A place in the new and old heart of the city for locals and visitors to come together. The wine bar is characterized by local specialties and the cuisine by classic and refined combinations. In addition to the restaurant, there are also event spaces for up to 300 guests. With centuries of moving history, HABEL and the capital city are a true Berlin tradition. See you soon in HABEL am Reichstag! HABEL am Reichstag Luisenstraße 19 · 10117 Berlin www.wein-habel.de Tel.: +49 30 28 09 84 84 Mon – Sat 7 am – 12 pm, Sun 7 am – 12 am 52 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurantjolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Habel am Reichstag

Indian Cuisine

German. Since 1779, HABEL am Reichstag has stood for the union of choice wines and satisfying regional cuisine in an atmosphere that is both homey and uncomplicated. €€. Luisenstraße 19. T: 030.28098484. www.wein-habel.de. F2

Katjes Veggie Café Grün- Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702.www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest

must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM

Schöneberg More German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in

the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€. Daily L&D. www.more-berlin. de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4

Tiergarten Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Art To The People Luisa Weiss dived into the past and present legacy of an iconic Berlin theater. There may be no better symbol of Berlin’s theater world today than the Volksbühne, or "People's Stage." First conceived at the turn of the 20th century as a theater for and by the working class, the Volksbühne has long enjoyed a prominent role in Berlin’s cultural lineup. Along with the Berliner Ensemble and the Schaubühne, it is considered one of the city’s most important theaters. The previous director, Frank Castorf, was an avant-garde visionary who cemented the Volksbühne’s reputation for unconventional and experimental theater. Castorf, a Berliner known for his rigorous seven-hour productions, made postmodern performances a hallmark of the theater's program. This fall, after more than 20 years under Castorf, the Volksbühne has a new director, the Belgian Chris Dercon. Dercon, formerly of 54 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

London’s Tate Modern, was brought in to internationalize the Volksbühne’s offerings, but his appointment has not been without controversy. Berlin’s reputation as a scruffy, experimental player on the world stage has always been part of its laid-back appeal. But in recent years, as the city has welcomed ever more global citizens and gentrification has pushed housing costs upward, there has been vocal pushback from many who fear the changes to Berlin’s cultural identity that such a transformation has wrought. Some critics worry that Dercon’s vision for the theater is not consistent with the Volksbühne’s history of specializing in repertory theater. Others see in Dercon parallels to the fast-moving changes in Berlin’s civic landscape. But the first reviews of the new season have been quite positive and Dercon enjoys the support of many world-renowned artists who are eager

to collaborate. The 2017 program already promises more interdisciplinary performances and diversity, such as Iphigenie performed in Arabic (with English subtitles) and the premiere of French dancer Boris Charmatz’s Musée de la Danse. In another break with tradition, the Volksbühne under Dercon has begun to incorporate some of its offerings with other venues in Berlin, such as the Tempelhof airport and a still-tobe-completed performance space in the center of the city. This month, the Volksbühne will stage a selection of Samuel Beckett pieces (10, 18 Nov) directed by Walter Asmus, Beckett’s longtime collaborator, as well as a musical adaptation of Wolfgang Herrndorf’s unfinished novel, Pictures of Your True Love (16 and 17 Nov), a poetic portayal of loneliness. www.volksbuehne.berlin

Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1 Nov: Nabucco (Verdi). 4 Nov: Grand Opera Gala for AIDS. 9, 12 Nov: Lohengrin (Wagner). 11, 19 Nov: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 18 Oct: The Flying Dutchman (Wagner). 26, 30 Nov: Le Prophète (Meyerbeer). 28 Nov: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 18, 25 Nov: La Belle Helene (Offenbach). 2, 5, 10 Nov: Satyagraha (Glass). 4 Nov: Eine Frau, die weiss, was sie will! (Straus). 11–12 Nov: Silent Film Festival. 17 Nov: Pelléas et Mélisande (Debussy). 19, 24 Nov: Petruschka /L'Enfant et les Sortilèges (Stravinsky/Ravel). 26 Nov: Die Bremer Stadtmusikanten (Sendil). www.komischeoper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 15 Nov: Birtdhay concert for and by Daniel Barenboim. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 6, 15, 16 Nov: Duato / Schechter at Komische Oper. 17, 24, 25 Nov: Maillot/Millepied at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

The best events in town

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Nov: Jazz at the Berlin's Philharmonic. 3 Nov: Benny Goodman revival band. 5 Nov: The Karajan Academy performs Rihm, Schumann, and more. 16 Nov: Quautour Ébène plays their own works and Schoenberg. 28 Nov: Artemis Quartett in concert. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 7 Nov: The Venice Baroque Orchestra in concert. 10, 11 Nov: The Konzerthausorchester, cond Fischer, performs Bernstein, Tchaikovsky, and others. 16–18 Nov: The Konzerthausorchester, cond Valchua, performs Rachmaninoff and others. 24, 25 Nov: The Konzerthausorchester, cond Fischer, performs Mozart's Requiem.

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Konzerthaus

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ENTERTAINMENT www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Philharmonie

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 3 Nov: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Stravinsky, Chin, and Rachmaninov. 4 Nov: Thierry Escaich, organ. 12 Nov: The Philharmonischer Chor Berlin performs Brahms' A German Requiem, op. 35. 18 Nov: The Sinfonie Orchester Berlin (cond. Rössler) performs Debussy, Mozart, Tchaikovsky. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. 4 Nov: Staatskapelle Berlin & Lahav Shani. 17 Nov: Viktoria Mullova and Katia Labeque. 10 Nov: Il Giardino Armonico and Giovanni Antonini. 12 Nov: Jörg Widmann. 15 Nov: Gidon Kremer. 19 Nov: Barenboim & Soltani. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of

Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. David Bowie, Iggy Pop, U Rathaus Schöneberg, S and Depeche Mode recorded some of Schöneberg. C5

their greatest hits in Berlin.

Radialsystem V

Rock, Pop, Jazz

A-Trane

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Sophiensaele

B Flat Jazz Club

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 2 Nov: Bryson Tiller. 5 Nov: Royal Blood. 6 Nov: Rag'n'Bone Man. 11 Nov: Adel Tawil. 14 Nov: Einstuerzende Neubauten. 30 Nov: Milky Chance. www.columbia-theater.de. zColumbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

One hundre music, Jazzf of collaborat than 150 mu bring their s town. And fo an artist-in-r composer Ty include the Akinmusire, ElSaffar, and premiere wi Rundfunk’s www.berlin

56 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

Jazz fest: Ambrose Akinmusire © Autumn de Wilde, courtesy of Berliner Festspiele.

Jazzfe

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei! Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. Find more Info and tickets at cinestar.de

ENTERTAINMENT

on this month THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

Parade Chamäleon Theater, all month

Cirque du soleil Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin, 8–12 Nov

Riverdance Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin, 2 Nov

ROCK, JAZZ, POP Alice cooper Tempodrom, 23 Nov

Madness Tempodrom, 1 Nov C-Halle, 14 Nov

Jazzfest Berlin Various locations, to 5 Nov

BALLET & CLASSICAL The magic flute Deutsche Oper, 28 Nov

Benny Goodman revival orchestra Kammermusiksaal, 3 Nov

Silent film festival

Devotion To The Truth Both prolific and highly influential, composer Philip Glass counts among the 20th century’s greatest contributors to the world of music. In addition to Oscar-nominated film scores, Glass’s oeuvre also includes a number of operas. One of these, Satyagraha, is at the Komische Oper (p. 55) for a limited run this month, with new choreography from Flemish-Moroccan producer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. Satyagraha is the enigmatic story of how Mahatma Gandhi became one of the most important political activists in history, told through Glass’s minimalist yet richly layered music. The journey takes the audience through Gandhi’s experiences in apartheid-era South Africa, which gave rise to his philosophy of Satyagraha – Sanskrit for “devotion to the truth.” 2, 5 10 Nov.

Komische Oper, 11–12 Nov

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www. kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 2 Nov: Riverdance. 8–12 Nov: Cirque du Soleil, OVO. 25 Nov: HAVASI Symphonic Concert Show. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin. de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom

Shabaka Ancestors, JazzFest Berlin 58 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the nowgone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 1 Nov: Madness in concert. 4 Nov: The Dublin Legends. 5 Nov: Zara Larsson. 10 Nov: Caught in the Act. 11 Nov: Kaleo. 15 Nov: Mighty Oaks. 17 Nov: The Music of Game of Thrones. 20 Nov: Turetskiy Choir. 21 Nov: James Newton Howard. 22 Nov: The War on Drugs. 23 Nov: Alice Cooper. 26 Nov: A

Satyagraha, ©Sandrathen, courtesy of Komische Oper Berlin. Shabaka Ancestors, © leeroy jason, courtesy of jazzfest berlin.

Einsturzende neubauten

Musical Christmas. 28, 29 Nov: Manowar. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group

Y FAMILGES PACKAABLE! AVAIL

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. www.stageentertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

08.11. - 12.11. 2017

BERLIN -MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin

MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Hundreds of listings every month

Magicum - Berlin Magic Museum A very unique interactive magic museum. With exhibition objects that date back to ancient times as well as games and magic tricks to keep guests on their toes. www.magicum-berlin.de. Open MonSun 10am-8pm. €9.50/7.50. Große Hamburger Straße 17. T: 030.28875635. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 6 Nov: CarringtonBrown. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Sayonara Tokyo. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Jaja WIne Bar. Inset, above: Briefmarken Weine.

The Finest Wines “Wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy,” Benjamin Franklin wrote in 1779, his ebullient words no doubt fueled by a glass or two of a full-bodied red. If you agree, then you’ve come to the right city. For me, the clear standouts in the city’s plentiful array of wine bars are the ones that go the extra mile, run by passionate wine experts who personally source unique and exceptional bottles from across the continent, crafting their wine lists with an eye for quality, not quantity. A gastronomic experience from start to finish, the following wine bars are my favorites because they offer the complete package: cool ambiance, great wines, and tasty dishes. Briefmarken Weine (Karl-Marx-Allee 99, www.briefmarkenweine.de) has charm to spare, and not just because of its location, a former stamp collectors’ shop on East Berlin’s 60 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2017

most iconic boulevard. With historic fittings (and retro neon sign) still intact, the space has been transformed into an inviting wine bar that positively glows with historic charm and warm hospitality. The Italian owners will be more than happy to provide guidance into the selection of high-caliber wines from their home country, whether something soft and fruity or mineral-rich natural wines are more to your taste. The slim but delicious menu is a reflection of Slow Food principles, from delectable antipasti to the daily pasta special. Kreuzberg’s Miller (Urbanstr. 126, www. miller-berlin.com) has a minimalist name and equally minimalist (though cozy) interior to match their dedication to “low-tech wine,” which translates into a small selection of German, Italian, and French wines that are all organic, biodynamic, or natural – free from additives or clarifiers. Once you’ve sampled

the handful of open bottles and picked your favorite, the next challenge will be deciding what to eat. On offer is a changing selection of organic charcuterie, raw milk cheeses, and no-fuss gourmet dishes prepared with the best produce out there: delicacies like octopus salad with celery and bruschetta with miso eggplant. Not too far away is Neukölln’s Jaja (Weichselstr. 7, www.jajaberlin.com), a French-run wine bar that takes an even more dedicated focus than Miller, serving natural wines and nothing but, letting the complex interplay of grape variety, terroir, and the technique of the winemaker come through in every glass. A weekly menu of tasty, creative small plates are the perfect complement to a night of wine tasting – think shaved cauliflower salad with preserved lemon and almond butter, or squid ink ravioli with cod roe.

Photos courtesy of Briefmarken Weine and JAJa Wine Bar

Tough job, but someone had to do it. Hilda Hoy scoped out the most outstanding wine bars on the Berlin scene right now.

NIGHTLIFE

Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater

presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Schleusenkrug

Newton Bar

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Wine & Cocktails

Berghain/Panorama Bar The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

Kater Blau A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

Tresor Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

House of Weekend

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

Clärchens Ballhaus A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Horns & Hooves An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

Gretchen Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

Bar Tausend

Times Bar

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

For a martini done right, trust the bartenders at Victoria Bar (Potsdamer Str. 102, www.victoriabar.de)

Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

Fragrances

CLUB GUIDE

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final

Puro Sky Lounge

The Pearl

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Katja Hoffmann, concierge at Hotel de Rome Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org. What does your perfect day look like? I love the Akazienstraße neighborhood in Schöneberg, so all my perfect days start with some cofee from Double Eye (Akazienstr. 22). It's the best coffee in the city. Then I'll visit Oxford Schuhe (no. 18) for fabulous shoes, hoping not to spend too much! If it's either a Wednesday or a Saturday, I'll head to Winterfeldtplatz for some fresh fruit and vegetables to fill my fridge but also to take in the pleasant vibe. What do you do after work? I really like going to the theater. I love the Schaubühne, the Deutsche Theater, and the Maxim-Gorki Theater. Tips for a German specialty? I'll never say no to a bowl of pumpkin soup. Even better if it's with carrots and ginger, and a bit of cinnamon and star anise. Describe Berlin in three words A constant transformation. It's getting colder. How do you warm up? With some hot Glühwein on our hotel rooftop on an Advent weekend.

62 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Where do you take your visitors? You obvioulsy can't leave out the classic spots, such as the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, or Museum Island. Once those are covered, I usually show guests the area around Potsdamer Straße, with its vibrant restaurant scene: restaurants Panama, Brasserie Lumière, and Kin Dee are some of my favorites there, together with the older institutions like Café Einstein Stammhaus and Joseph Roth Diele. For an extravagant hat, head to Fiona Bennett (Potsdamer Str. 81) Where can you best relax in this big city? In the spa of the Hotel de Rome of course! It once used to be the safe of the Dresdner Bank, where jewelry and gold were kept. Now there's a 20-m-long pool. A guest just told us recently that the water felt like silk! Best way to get around? You just can't beat a bike tour of the city. The perfect Berlin souvenir? A Berliner Kindl! Images: Café Einstein Stammhaus; a creation by Fiona Bennett; Gendarmenmarkt.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

FIONA BENNETT: COURTESY OF FIONA BENNETT; GENDARMENMARKT: © ISTOCK; CAFE EINSTEIN: COURTESY OF CAFE EINSTEIN.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Over or under? The bustling circular junction of Kottbusser Tor is chaotic enough for drivers and cyclists, even more so for commuters trying to navigate the many different U-Bahn entrances. Just remember this easy rule of thumb: head underground for the north-south U8 line. To get on the U1 line, which runs straight east to Friedrichshain or west towards Charlottenburg, you’ll need to climb the steps to the aboveground tracks.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Money Services

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Banks and Foreign Exchange

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Rent a Car

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Lost Cards and Cheques

map license number: BVG 0050.16; © istock.

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

Kottbusser Tor

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WHERE NOW | SCHILLER

My Berlin

SCHILLER Christopher von Deylen, aka. Schiller, is more than a musician – he’s an artist who creates electronic soundscapes, the kind of moody, ambient chill-out music you’ll want to close your eyes and lose yourself in. Drawing from a diverse range of influences and collaborations, he’s sold millions of albums and performed for packed concert halls everywhere he goes. Hear him for yourself on 22 November at Admiralspalast (p. 59). www.schillermusic.com

Your shows are much more than just concerts – they’re spectacular, multifaceted experiences. What can our readers look forward to with your “Klangwelten” (“Worlds of Sound”) show in Berlin’s Admiralspalast on 22 November? Klangwelten originally had the working title “Chamber Electronic” – a precise musical orchestration with a transparent but nonetheless voluminous sound. You could say it’s an alternative conception to the wide-screen arena concert. We want to create the equivalent of a wide-screen experience, but for the ears. There are amazing light effects and our own custom-created video. And of course the surround sound we are known for. The viewers and listeners will be right in the middle of a real sound experience. What originally brought you to Berlin, and how would you describe the music scene in this city? I lived in Berlin full-time between 2000 and 2013, and since then I still spend long stretches of time here. Around the start of the new millennium, there was still an incredible amount of new things to discover. This has naturally changed a great deal over the years. The music scene was very multifaceted back then and it still is, which is great. But in my opinion, it is not the case that someone can move to Berlin and automatically become creative. Of course, you’re surrounded by art and culture. 66 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2017

Sometimes this city strikes me as a stimulator of creativity. Ultimately it’s the person, the artist, or the musician themselves that has to be the driving force. Some of your albums have been inspired by your world travels. Has Berlin also had an influence on your work and your creativity in general? Definitely, the concentration of so many different cultures here has had a crucial role in my work. Berlin is something like a reflection of the world. You only have to go a few streets over, and already everything looks different, smells and tastes different, sounds different. You can really lose yourself wonderfully in it. Your favorite places to listen to music in Berlin? I find that there is sound and music everywhere in Berlin. Most of all, I like to walk through the streets and simply listen to the rhythm of the city. I often find this more inspirational than going to concerts and clubs. Which part of the city do you think of as “your” neighborhood? When I’m in Berlin, I like to spend time in Charlottenburg. After more than 10 years discovering the former Eastern districts of the

city, now I am more and more drawn to the former West. I really like the area around Savignyplatz. Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I’d get up very early so I could have the city to myself for a few hours. Or at least the illusion of it. I’d get a cappuccino and listen to the city slowly waking up. Then perhaps a boat ride on the Spree. An hour on the water – why not? I would go see an exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau (www.berlinerfestspiele.de) or Haus der Kulturen der Welt (www.hkw.de). If the weather’s nice, a stroll to the Siegessäule. The climb up will reward you with a tremendous view. Then by bike through Tiergarten followed by a browse through the Dussmann (www.kulturkaufhaus. de) bookstore. A currywurst or a salad if I felt like it, then another cappuccino. In the early evening, I’d find a nice spot to watch the sunset. Perhaps the TV Tower? Then let’s see what comes next. The journey continues. Clockwise from top left: The Siegessäule; Schiller; Currywurst, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt; Savignyplatz. Inset: Schiller performing.

SIEGESSÄULE, CURRYWURST, HAUS DER KULTUREN DER WELT: © ISTOCK; SCHILLER CONCERT 2012 - CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 BY HENK-JAN VAN DER KLIS; SCHILLER PORTRAIT: © BEN WOLF.

MUSICIAN

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