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www.travellinginaustralia.com.au EDITOR SUSan TYRReLL susan@travellinginaustralia.com.au DESIGNER BRee higgeRSon bree@morrisonmedia.com.au cREaTIvE DIREcTOR gRa mURdoch gra@morrisonmedia.com.au SaLES ENQUIRIES gRace KendRicK grace@travellinginaustralia.com.au EDITORIaL cONTRIBUTORS Roger allnutt, Tim crawshaw, Steve deVroom, gra murdoch, Susan Tyrrell. PHOTOGRaPHIc cONTRIBUTORS australia’s First Families of Wine, Tim crawshaw, Steve deVroom, don Fuchs, dennis harding, grahame mcconnell, gra murdoch, nick osborne, Southern cross Television, darren Tieste, The Legendary Pacific coast, Tourism illawarra, Tourism nSW, Tourism QLd, Tourism Sa, Tourism TaS, Tourism Wa. cONTRIBUTIONS Travelling in australia welcomes editorial and photographic submissions, but is not responsible for unsolicited submissions. For submissions accepted, we retain copyright and reprint rights. Travelling in australia magazine is proudly published by
PUBLISHER Peter morrison GENERaL MaNaGER alan Brodie FINaNcIaL cONTROLLER Justine morrison cREaTIvE DIREcTOR graeme murdoch PRODUcTION MaNaGER John harland DIGITaL IMaGING glen morrison aDvERTISING cO-ORDINaTOR Bree higgerson IT SYSTEMS Jake Vanderrol aDMINISTRaTION marina Thomas, Beulah hopper, angela Thompson, Toni-anne Rodd, marnie galvin PROOFREaDER noel o’halloran ISSUE 125 2011 Travelling in australia magazine is printed quarterly by morrison media Services Ltd, Level 1, 25 Lemana Lane, north Burleigh, Qld 4420, australia. Phone +61 7 5576 1388 Fax +61 7 5576 1527 Views expressed are not necessarily those of the Publisher. PLEaSE NOTE: email addresses published are for professional communications only and do not constitute an invitation to send unsolicited emails. Travelling in australia magazine is printed in a facility printing under iSo14001 environmental certification. Paper fibre is from responsibly managed plantation forests.
ON THE COVER The pristine sand and clear blue water of Whitehaven Beach, QLD. See previous page for details on Tourism Queensland’s million dollar memo. Cover Pic: Tourism QLD.
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This issue’s page numbers are brought to you by the iconic australia Poem “my country” by dorothea mcKellar (1885-1968).
THIS WAY IN vineyards in the Orange district, Central nsW. Courtesy of tourism nsW.
introduction
a word from the editor
Travelling throughout Australia is always surprising, even when visiting regions I knew well in the past. Having been to South Australia on a number of previous occasions, I was fortunate to spend extra time there after ATE last year and discovered some inspirational destinations. The Clare Valley Riesling Trail is well worth a visit, with Sevenhill Cellars winery the highlight for me – operated for over 150 years by Jesuit winemakers. An overnight stay at Moorooroo Park Vineyard in the Barossa was another sumptuous experience and TIAM thanks them for their prize donations in TIAM123. I had often purchased Maggie Beer products in my local gourmet supermarket, but visiting her farm and the Hans Heysen Gallery were both memorable experiences. My travels took me back to the Hunter region, where the wine and food trails are super-accessible, and I noted a lot of newcomers in the area to complement the pioneers of the industry. Having flown into Sydney for this trip, I stopped off at Darling Harbour for seafood lunch before catching my flight home – even better than I remembered! I also took a road trip with my daughter from Queensland to Victoria, off the main highways, calling in at many country towns along the way. It was a “scones with cream and local craft and produce” trip – so that’s a story for another issue. Sometimes the real treasures are just a few minutes from the highway. In this issue we take a look at wine and food regions around the country – with so much to write about we had to keep adding pages to the feature, and we really only covered the highlights! Our intrepid Creative Director, Gra, took a trip down to Tasmania and came back with some great shots and a campervan story we just had to tell. Tim Crawshaw, writer and photographer, also came back with amazing images from Coober Pedy in South Australia, so squeezed that in too. Island envy has also reared its head in the TIAM office. Putting together a feature on just some of Australia’s idyllic islands has the whole team vying for an opportunity to visit, some for the first time and others to rediscover an exquisite experience. TIAM reaches corporate travellers as well as holiday-makers, so we have included an editorial on conferencing in Australia. The choices are as wide and varied as your imagination. I would love to camelride in Broome with the TIAM team! The more I travel and research editorial for TIAM, the more I realise there is even more to discover and experience. When your travels bring you to our shores, may your experiences be as limitless as your imagination.
Travel safely, Susan Tyrrell
WInnERS of ouR MooRooRoo PARk VInEyARd CoMPETITIon In TIAM123 first Prize: D. Simmonds, SA. Second Prize: J. Bradley, WA. Third Prize: N. Johnson, Altair Travel, USA. travelling in australia magazine // 3
The love of field and coppice,
lady elliot island. Pic courtesy of Peter lik, tourism QlD.
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Of green and shaded lanes,
THIS WAY in
contents THIS WAY IN
01 03 06 08 14 18
Million Dollar Memo Editors Intro Map First Impressions Reviews Australia According to Bruce Tyrrell
WINE & FOOD
16 Wine and food icons 22 Wine and food 46 Twelve family wineries ISLANDS
30 Idyllic island getaways 41 Lady Elliot Island 42 Norfolk Island BIG AUSTRALIA
20 44 50 54 56 58
issue
125
Close to Sydney Coober Pedy Conference downunder The Great Southern Trip Big icons CamperVan-Dieman’s Land
this way out
60 61 62 64
Business Listings Inflight Reading Advertisers Index Lasting Impression
travelling in australia magazine // 5
Of ordered woods and gardens
kakadu
ki
m th be e rl ey
darwin
daly waters
northern territory alice springs uluru
western australia south australia coober pedy
rottnest island
perth
clare valley barossa valley
margaret river
THE WORLD 180° 140°
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kangaroo island
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© 2001 National Geographic Society
www.nationalgeographic.com/xpeditions
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is running in your veins.
16 0°
adel aide
THIS WAY IN
orientation
What’s where in this vast land
pages locations >
gr ea t ba rr ie r re ef
queensland
whitsunday island
sunshine coast brISbane
stanthorpe
lady elliot island moreton island gold coast
new south w ales
14 15 16 18 20 25 27 29 30 34 35 36 37 38 38 39 44 53 58
Barossa region gold Coast adelaide Hunter region sydney Clare valley stantHorpe Margaret river region lord Howe island norfolk island Moreton island Bruny island lady elliot island wHitsundays rottnest island kangaroo island CooBer pedy sunsHine Coast freyCinet norfolk island
hunter region SYDneY
lord howe island
victoria me lbourne
phillip island
tasmania
freycinet
hobart
bruny island
travelling in australia magazine // 7
Strong love of grey-blue distance,
Pic: tourism QlD
f i r s t i m p r e s s i o n s i m a g e
1
FR Om Q U eeNSL a N D
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Brown streams and soft, dim skies -
GRAND OPENING
D i D yo u G e t t h e M I l l I O N D O l l A R M E M O ? With $1 Million worth of travel to be won, this is one memo you have to read. See inside front cover for more and enter to win the ultimate reward. Gold Coast, Queensland. www.milliondollarmemo.com
Pic: gary Bell, oceanwideimages.com
travelling in australia magazine // 9
i know but cannot share it,
Pic: tourism QlD
f i r s t i m p r e s s i o n s i m a g e
2
F R O m B e L O W
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my love is otherwise.
GRAND OPENING
U N D E R WAT E R H AV E N // T H E G R E E N T U R T L E A lone green turtle in the clear waters off Lady Elliot Island. They are known to migrate long distances to reach their spawning grounds, often returning to the same beach from which they hatched. Female turtles usually mate every two to four years, laying their eggs in holes dug high on the beach. Tourism QLD.
travelling in australia magazine // 11
i love a sunburnt country,
Pic: tourism nsW
f i r s t i m p r e s s i o n s i m a g e
3
f r o m t h e g r o U N D
12 // travelling in australia magazine
a land of sweeping plains,
GRAND OPENING
T H E F O R E S T // B A N YA N & K E N T I A PA L M T R E E S Large banyan trees and kentia palms abound in the forest on Lord Howe Island. Older banyan trees are characterised by their roots that grow into thick woody trunks which, with age, can become indistinguishable from the main trunk. Old trees can spread out laterally using these prop roots to cover a wide area. Don Fuchs, Tourism NSW. travelling in australia magazine // 13
Of ragged mountain ranges,
A tAsting At the cellAr door ...
Seppeltsfield Wines, Barossa Valley south australia Famous Para liqueur, teamed with hand-made chocolate – a tasting delight!
Fine chocolate maker richard Carmen surveying his handiwork.
ReVieWeD BY SUSAn tyrrell
Seppeltsfield Wines have a long and fascinating history and the Centenary Tour demonstrates this in a most delightful way. After lunching in tanunda we headed out to seppeltsfield, a south Australian heritagelisted property, established in 1851 by Joseph seppelt, originally from silesia in eastern europe. he died in 1868 and his son, oscar Benno seppelt, took over the family business at the age of 21. We were invited to taste a range of fortifieds, together with some very special chocolates hand-made by richard carmen at the seppeltsfield cellar door. this was a gastronomic sensation. so cleverly were the chocolate flavours teemed with each tasting that we could not choose a favourite. We enjoyed a 75% dark chocolate with the Para grand tawny and the “vintage truffle” with the Para 1988 and 1989 Vintage tawny, all equally sensational. then we had “nigella”, a classic fruit and nut combination with a touch of orange peel with the dP90 rare tawny. the chocolates at seppeltsfield are handmade by richard of richocolate. richard runs the cafe at the cellar door and his passion for chocolate is quite contagious, with his products a perfect fit with the fortifieds on offer. Without doubt, the pinnacle of our seppeltsfield experience was the centenary tour. it seems that oscar Benno seppelt acted
con nec tor
the Centenary tour takes in a room filled with port laid down each year, from 1878.
with tremendous foresight when he laid down the first vintage of Para liqueur Port in 1878, declaring it to remain so for 100 years, while knowing it would never be consumed in his own lifetime. every year after a portion of each vintage was laid down for 100 years. this extraordinary tour takes you upstairs where row upon row of barrels of port, each labelled with the year they were laid down, reside. What is even more extraordinary is the opportunity to taste 100-year-old port. this year’s was only released in May, and you can even try the port laid down in the year of your birth. You may purchase a special 100ml or 375ml bottle of one of the vintage ports. the taste is worth the expense. however, that is not the end of the story. the original seppelt company was purchased in 1985 by sA Brewing holdings, later
SeppeltSfield Winery pH: +61 8 8568 6217 // eMAil: cellarsales@seppeltsfield.com.au WeB: www.seppeltsfield.com.au
14 // travelling in australia magazine
Of droughts and flooding rains.
southcorp Wines, which were again purchased by Foster’s group in 2005. seppeltsfield estate purchased the business and site from Foster’s group in 2007. during the 25 years of corporate ownership, surprisingly, the huge stock of valuable vintage ports was not opened, sold or interfered with. in fact the staff continued to lay down a portion of each year’s vintage just as oscar Benno seppelt did in the previous century. An incredible story and a fabulous heritage experience for any visitor, and particularly lovers of very fine liqueur. seppeltsfield has the only unbroken collection of wine spanning over 130 vintages in the world dating back to 1878 and the only winery to release a 100-year-old wine each year. i am planning to buy a bottle of the 1931 vintage for my father’s 80th next year. it will be a rare treat.
peeking under the covers...
Sheraton Mirage Resort and Spa gold coast
the lobby.
a golden dawn over the pool.
ReVieWeD BY SUSan tYrrell
I live on the Gold Coast and as a local felt I knew the Sheraton quite well. I had been for meals on many occasions, have used the gym, day spa and tennis courts over the years and have enjoyed walking and swimming at the ocean beach at the rear of the resort. I had always perceived the Sheraton as a classic, timeless, five-star hotel. In reality it is much, much more! this was my first overnight stay and arriving as a guest feels just a little more special than arriving just to dine. the hotel is over 20 years old, yet the finish, from the marble tiles to original artworks, seems fresh and modern. the lobby is enormous, elegant and understated. it provides a breathtaking view over the tropical gardens, one-hectare lagoon and swimming pool to the ocean. great architectural foresight was used here! our room was an oversize oasis room with a spa, and a king-size sheraton sweet sleepertM bed. the bed is aptly named. it was so comfortable that we had to rush to make breakfast in time. All our room windows, even over the spa in the bathroom, looked out over the tropical gardens and lagoon.
con nec tor
We dined in the terraces restaurant – renowned for its seafood buffet. All was delicious, as one might expect, and we did justice to the varieties of oysters and prawns on offer. so much so that we had to decline the dessert buffet! our waiter was warm, friendly and helpful. he was no exception. All the staff seemed genuinely pleased to have us there. very, very nice. A little walk around the grounds helped our dinner go down, then back to our room and that very comfortable bed. We awoke relaxed and rested, and just a little bit excited because the sun was out after close to two weeks of solid rain. the breakfast buffet is, without doubt, the best we have encountered here or overseas. We took our time and when finished wandered out by the pool again. A quick peek at the beach, then a delightful hour reading our complimentary paper while relaxing by the pool, shoes off. it occurred to me then what the point of difference is at the sheraton. it’s not a fivestar hotel. it’s a five-star resort. there is a
difference. the design is clever and quite intentional. Just one night and we were in holiday mode. We decided we would inquire about vacancies for a second night as we were already here, relaxed and de-stressed. Another night seemed almost a requisite. We spoke to the staff in reservations. they were 95 per cent occupied for the weekend and we were not surprised. it’s a whole other world once you walk into that lobby. they were not able to keep us in our room and we ended up leaving, thinking any other room may be a let-down. As we trundled down the corridor with our bag, one of the housekeepers very kindly showed us a “regular” room they were preparing. there was no real difference. We looked at each other. if only ...
Sheraton Mirage reSort & Spa gold coaSt ph: +61 7 5577 0060 // eMail: sheraton.goldcoast@sheraton.com WeB: www.sheraton.com/goldcoast
travelling in australia magazine // 15
i love her far horizons,
south australia
Wine and Food Icons
from legendary wine brands to quirky local produce vineyards, Piccadilly valley. tourism sa.
With more than 320 cellar doors across 17 official wine regions, it is not surprising that South Australia produces about half of all Australian wine and 60 per cent of exported wine. the Barossa, Coonawarra, Clare Valley, adelaide hills, riverland and Mclaren Vale are the best-known wine regions, however, there are also fast-growing regions on Kangaroo island, Eyre Peninsula, the southern Fleurieu, the southern Flinders ranges, the limestone Coast and in the greater adelaide region. Not surprisingly, south australia is home to a range of unique wine and food icons. GrAnGe At PenfoldS MAGill eStAte Just eight kilometres from the heart of adelaide, Magill Estate Winery is the spiritual home of the legendary Penfolds wine brand 16 // travelling in australia magazine
i love her jewel-sea,
and home of the internationally recognised Penfolds Grange. the winery hosts a range of daily tours and Grange is available by the glass at Magill Estate restaurant. HAiGH’S CHoColAteS haigh’s is the oldest family owned chocolate manufacturer in the world. Every item in the range is created by hand, using only the finest ingredients to guarantee its smooth, creamy texture. tour the factory on Greenhill road or visit one of the shops in the city or Glenelg. CooPerS Beer the much-loved Coopers is australia’s only remaining family owned brewer, and the world’s largest producer of home-brew concentrates. the company is well known for its Pale ale and Extra stout. Visitors may tour the brewery at regency Park or enjoy a pint in a pub.
MAGGie Beer’S QuinCe PASte Maggie Beer has earnt a reputation for her work in the food industry in the Barossa and throughout south australia. With a passion for fabulous flavours and local produce, Maggie runs her own shop, Maggie Beer’s Farm shop, in the Barossa. her Quince Paste is the perfect accompaniment to brie or a mature cheddar cheese. BAlfourS froG CAkeS adelaide-based Balfours is the largest fresh bakery in australia. it is most famous for its sickly sweet cream sponge frog cake, which has become one of south australia’s most quirky food icons. You will find frog cakes and other Balfours products in retail outlets around the state. fArMerS union iCed Coffee this is a best-seller and local favourite,
south australia ???? apricots drying, riverland. tourism sa.
Jacobs Creek wine. tourism sa.
invented and still made in South Australia. It is a staple in convenience and retail stores around the State. Menz FruChoCs Menz FruChocs have been made in South Australia since the 1940s and today more than 40 million are produced each year. They have centres of dried apricot and dried peach and are coated with milk chocolate. Visitors can buy FruChocs direct from the factory at Glynburn or at supermarkets throughout the State. hensChke’s hill oF GraCe One of the greatest winemaking names in
enjoy a Coopers beer at the stirling Hotel. tourism sa.
Haighs Chocolate store at Bee Hive Corner, adelaide. tourism sa.
Australia is Henschke. Based in the Barossa, they are most famous for their Hill of Grace wine made from vines that were planted in the 1860s. Visit the cellar door and taste this exceptional wine.
the island was declared a Ligurian Bee Sanctuary, making it the home of the purest strain of bees in the world. Sample this highquality honey at Cliffords Honey Farm and Island Beehive.
CoFFin bay oysters Coffin Bay on the Eyre Peninsula is home to some of the finest oysters in the world. Discover these delights on the Seafood and Aquaculture Trail or look for them on the menu in many South Australian restaurants.
Golden north iCe CreaM The tiny town of Laura in the State’s midnorth is known for its much-loved Golden North ice cream company. Milk from the region’s cows is used to produce delicious ice creams, yoghurts and sorbets with a creamy variety of flavours. Stop in at Laura on your way to the Flinders Ranges to try this ice cream, or look for it in shops around the State. Visit: www.southaustralia.com
kanGaroo island honey The Ligurian Bee was introduced to Kangaroo Island in 1884 and a year later
travelling in australia magazine // 17
Her beauty and her terror –
AUSTRALIA ACCORDING TO...
Bruce Tyrrell Tyrrells Wines, HunTer Valley Bruce tyrrell, CeO tyrrells Wines. in 2006 Bruce tyrrell was recognised with an Order of australia Medal for his contribution to the australian wine industry. in 2009, he became a Hunter valley living legend at the Hunter valley Wine industry awards.
TIAM: Tyrrells Wines was established in 1858 and is still going strong. What critical factors have enhanced this longevity? First and foremost we are still here because my great-grandfather picked the right property that had the soils suitable for making great wine. Had our base been 10 miles east of where we are today, we would have disappeared after World War I. Ownership and control have basically come down one line in each generation, where the people who have worked the business, own the business. So, today Tyrrells is my wife, Pauline, our three children, Jane, John and Christopher, and myself. There are no aunts, uncles, cousins, in-laws, etc, involved. We have had the ability to continually make top wines and to reinvent ourselves as time and markets dictate. Thirty years ago our biggestselling wine was Blackberry Nip, and today it is Heathcote Shiraz. 18 // travelling in australia magazine
The wide brown land for me!
How do Australian wines and winemakers rank on the world stage? Australian wines rank among the best on the world stage and our winemakers are probably regarded as the most technically correct and innovative of the lot. I believe that all countries make great wines that are unique and in Australia we have Hunter Valley Semillon, North East Victorian Fortified and Sparkling Shiraz that are styles not made anywhere else in the world. The ability of Australian winemakers has been to make the best quality at just about every price point. Which wines are trending right now, domestically and internationally? I see the trend in wine drinking, both here and overseas, moving to lighter, finer wines with less alcohol, good fruit and clean acid. Wines that are easy to drink and leave your
palate fresh and ready for the next mouthful. In the United Kingdom, some restaurants are now putting alcohol by volume on their wine lists, and no matter what the reputation of the wine, if it’s over 15% it doesn’t sell. Australian Chardonnays have been fined down over the past couple of years and I am pleased to see this variety is starting to sell again in place of the more simple Sauvignon Blancs. We are lucky that Hunter Semillon, which at 10% to 11% alcohol only, fits perfectly with these newer styles. Do you believe the numerous wine regions across Australia are easily identified and differentiated by the international market? Australia has 61 wine regions, some of which are old and some that are quite new. Industry promotion is now focusing on the 12 best
MEET ‘N’ GREET the original pioneer hut built by edward tyrrell in 1858.
known and, of course, the Hunter Valley is one of these. A problem we face in Europe particularly is that they have no concept of the size of Australia and we have to teach them to treat our regions almost like their countries. Some years ago, English wine writer Robert Joseph said that the British consumer knew three Australian regions – Hunter Valley, Jacob’s Creek and Nottage Hill. We have come a long way from then but, as an industry, it is vital that we continue to make our regions the heroes of our wine promotion. Would you say that each wine region has an identifiable “hero” product? Most regions have their varietal heroes, such as Hunter Valley Semillon and Shiraz, Barossa Shiraz, Clare Riesling, Margaret River Chardonnay and Cabernet blends, and these express what each of the areas can do best. Unlike Europe, we have no restriction on what we can plant where and so there are less-traditional varieties popping up everywhere and making our regions even more interesting. What are your thoughts on the future of the industry? The Australian wine industry is not the flavour of the month that it was four years ago and I
believe we will have to step back before we can go forward. First, we are currently reducing the level of planting to get supply and demand back into balance and therefore negate the need to heavily discount wine that is excess in the market. Until this balance is found it will be difficult to get profitability at all levels of the industry. While foreign exchange rates remain high, within our traditional markets, like the USA and the UK, getting sales increase will be almost impossible. Our future will be in the new markets, like China, India, Russia and Asia in general where there is solid strength and growth in their economies. We will increase our quality perception over the next 10 years through our regional hero promotions and a greater emphasis being placed on the families within the wine industry. A group like the Australian First Families of Wine will be the leaders in innovation in both market and production.
tyrrells Wines cellar door.
Tyrrells Wines. What should we expect in their second 150 years? In 150 years, I hope that Tyrrells are still based in the Hunter Valley with a Tyrrell in control. I trust they will take our quality today and improve upon it and that they will control even more of the great vineyards of the Hunter. travelling in australia magazine // 19
The stark white ring-barked forests,
A Spectrum of delightS
close to sydney Sparkling waterways, World Heritage-listed national parks, age-old mountains and ravines, cascading waterfalls and some of the most stunning beaches on the planet. This region is a grand spectrum of delights. Freshwater explorations compete with marine delights. You can easily arrange reef and game-fishing charters – or hire a sailboard, kayak or catamaran to get the feel of local lakes. Or you can ride a horse (or camel), play 18 holes of golf or tackle giant sand dunes on a quad bike. The region has gentle, rolling green hills and little historic villages nestled between rainforest and beach. For simple relaxation, lie back and enjoy a luxuriant spa, try the largest ocean baths in the southern hemisphere, explore sleepy mountainside villages or laze on the beach with a good book. At sunset, dine alfresco. Sip some of the wine that has made the Hunter Valley famous. www.visitnsw.com
Barrington tops national Park. Pic courtesy of Jeffrey Drewitz, tourism nsW.
DONT MISS • Walking on air, 270m above the valley of the Kedumba River in a glass-floored, aerial gondola in the Blue Mountains. • Kayaking with dolphins at Nelson Bay. • Re-energising and relaxing at a luxury spa in the Hunter Valley, Blue Mountains or Southern Highlands. • Tasting the world’s best Semillon in the Hunter Valley and the Southern Highland’s cool-climate varieties. • Driving the Grand Pacific Drive from the Royal National Park to North Wollongong – with its landmark Sea Cliff Bridge. • Cruising the laidback Hawkesbury River on a houseboat. • Discovering Australia’s largest collection of reptiles at the Australian Reptile Park. 20 // travelling in australia magazine
all tragic to the moon,
FAST FACTS • Regions close to Sydney include the Hawkesbury River, Central Coast, The Hunter, Blue Mountains, Illawarra, Port Stephens and Southern Highlands. • Mountains, rivers, eucalyptfilled valleys, rich tablelands – all within a two-and-ahalf-hour drive of Sydney • Two World Heritage-listed areas, the second oldest national park in the world, 40 national parks and reserves, renowned wine regions
tourism nsw ???? Hang gliding, stanwell Park. Pic courtesy of tourism illawarra.
Crackneck Point lookout, Central Coast. the legendary Pacific Coast.
AreAs within sydney surrounds Barrington tops Over 1,200 sq km of unspoilt wilderness and subtropical rainforest. Blue Mountains Experience the spectacular blue-hazed cliffs and canyons of the Blue Mountains. Central Coast Pristine beaches backed by a lush hinterland. HawkesBury river A fascinating mix of natural attractions and a peaceful country ambience. HawkesBury valley The Hawkesbury River winds its way through a fertile valley. Hunter valley world Class wines complemented by superb cuisine and boutique accommodation. kiaMa sHellHarBour and surrounds A string of dazzling beaches at the end of the Grand Pacific Drive. lake MaCquarie and surrounds A vast aquatic playground four times the size of Sydney Harbour. newCastle A vibrant cosmopolitan city perched between a working harbour and beautiful beaches. port stepHens, Forster and surrounds Golden beaches, a picturesque bay and inlets soutHern HigHlands The Highland’s gentle green hills produce excellent wines and beautiful formal gardens. upper Hunter Endowed with rolling plains and rugged mountains, the Upper Hunter has a taste for the good life. wollongong and surrounds The State’s third largest city has reinvented itself as an escape.
travelling in australia magazine // 21
The sapphire-misted mountains,
vineyards, Barossa valley. tourism sa.
WINE AND
FOOD Just like the country itself, AustrAliA’s wine And food Are suggestive of freedom And diversity susAn tyrrell experiences the tAste of AustrAliA ... And finds there is much to enJoy!
Food and wine in Australia offers more freedom and diversity than perhaps any other nation on the planet. Australians have grown up with a broad influence from Indigenous, European and Asian cultures, so it is unsurprising that there is less of a national cuisine and a rather “magpie” like borrowing and contemporary interpretation of cuisine from around the world. There is an inherent free-spirited attitude in the kitchens and cellars of Australia that drives adventure, refinement and discovery when food and wine get together. Our chefs and winemakers have learnt from the best, then bent the rules for a food and wine style all of their own. They’ve turned Australia’s sun-kissed produce into a melting pot of cuisine and awardwinning wines. Whether you want a fresh seafood platter, a stunning shiraz, a modern Asian-fused meal or a racy riesling, Australia is the place to be. >>
22 // travelling in australia magazine
The hot gold hush of noon,
WINE & FOOD
travelling in australia magazine // 23
green tangle of the brushes
South AuStrAliA
WeStern AuStrAliA
Some of the most famous wine regions in the world are dotted across South Australia. Winemaking in South Australia began in 1841 when the first vintage was recorded in the Adelaide Hills. More than 160 years on, it seems the offerings have simply improved and diversified. From shiraz in the Barossa, riesling in the Clare Valley, to the big reds of the Coonawarra, there is much to see, sip and taste. With over 70 cellar doors and 150 wineries, it would take weeks to visit all in the famous Barossa region, which includes household names such as Jacob’s Creek, Yalumba, Penfolds, Peter Lehmann and smaller brands such as Henschke, Moorooroo Park, Rockford and St Hallett. From personal experience, an overnight stay and degustation dinner at the boutique Moorooroo Park is recommended, with their range of Lottie’s Shiraz an outstanding wine. One of the Adelaide Hills’ most famous towns, Hahndorf, is Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement. There’s still a strong German flavour in Hahndorf, most evident in the smallgood outlets and German bakeries that line the bustling main street. You may visit the former home and studio of artist Sir Hans Heysen – The Cedars. Take a guided tour of this gracious old home, still owned by the Heysen family. It houses a fine collection of paintings and drawings displaying Heysen’s remarkable versatility in subject and medium. Also on the grounds, see Heysen’s working studio, his painting materials and tools, sketches, notes and more. You can pick your own strawberries at Beerenberg or drop into Maggie Beer’s Farm, like we did. Creating short-run products based on the best-quality produce in season is how Maggie started with the Farm Shop. Whether a ute full of peaches or a trailer of blood oranges, Maggies says “the produce always drives the product”. Call in for a bite and the opportunity to pick your own collection of goodies from Maggie’s famous delectables; pates, Pheasant and Porcini Terrine, cheeses, olives, woodfired bread and quince paste galore. Love that quince paste! The Clare Valley north-west of Adelaide has been compared to Tuscany. It’s a place where you can cycle an idyllic 35 kilometres through vineyards on the Riesling Trail, watch master vignerons at work in 150-year-old cellars and enjoy festivals among the vines. The trail connects the townships of Auburn, Leasingham, Watervale, Penwortham, Sevenhill, Clare and White Hut. There’s a surprising range of foods that has been grown, farmed or produced in the region, from free-range chickens to chutney, carob to cod, saltbush hogget to organic lamb. You’ll see it available in shops, cellar doors, farm outlets, cafes and restaurants.
Western Australia’s wine regions have a laid-back atmosphere with the added sophistication of fresh produce and fine food. Here, whole afternoons can be spent chatting and eating over a bottle of wine and then meandering from restaurant to cellar door and back again for dinner. Many wineries have restaurants, children’s play areas, art galleries, behind-the-scenes tours and even accommodation and tours of local attractions – so you can turn your visit into a full-scale holiday. Food and wine trails are a delicious way to enjoy both Margaret River and the Swan Valley. Combined with other local produce, from cheese to chocolate, this is nothing short of a gourmet delight – irresistible for a day trip or longer stay.
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Where lithe lianas coil,
sevenhill’s impressive cellar, Clare valley. touris m sa.
neW South WAleS There are plenty of ways to enjoy gourmet food and a wine-tasting adventure in NSW. Award-winning top-rated restaurants are liberally sprinkled across New South Wales with committed chefs attracted by the abundant, quality, seasonal produce. You can stock up on delicious gourmet goodies at the farm gate, artisan bakeries, family owned wineries and the regular farmers’ markets that are now a tourist feature of most major NSW towns. Stay for a short break or long weekend to enjoy a regional cooking class or winetasting course. Impress your friends with rare vintages, organic hand-made cheeses and fresh seafood from some of the cleanest waters in the world, or a box of succulent organic figs, juicy peaches or crisp apples.
SuSAn tyrrell dropped by A couple of cellAr doorS lAte in 2010 Travelling with friends for a food and wine weekend late last August saw us drop in to the McGuigan Wines cellar door first off. We had flown into sydney in the early morning, picked up a car and driven to the Hunter. By this time we were keen to stretch our legs and take some refreshment. the staff at the cellar door were friendly and knowledgeable and guided us through a tasting, including their always popular Black label and the exclusive vineyard select and Personal reserve labels. i had been there before and was keen to introduce my group to the delights of the Hunter valley Cheese Company, in residence at the cellar door. We sampled a great range of cheeses and took some away for afternoon “nibbles” at our hotel. We moved on to tyrrells Wines as i had an interview to do with Bruce tyrrell (see pp 18/19). great family name, but no direct relation! Bruce and his team guided us through a tasting of their Hunter Heroes, four distinctive wines that capture the interaction between a single grape variety and the specific terroir1 of the Hunter valley vineyards from which they are sourced. these included the tyrrells Brokenback shiraz, tyrrells Brookdale semillon, tyrrells Fordwich verdelho and tyrrells Moon Mountain Chardonnay.
We all had our favourite. My personal choice was the shiraz. While there we also tried the highly popular special aged tawny. Family history tells that Dan tyrrell grew, traded and blended an incredible range of fortified wines in the late 1800s. it is also rumoured that he had one of the finest sherry palates in the country! in testament we purchased a bottle for later enjoyment. at this point i was nominated as designated driver (as i was officially working) for the remainder of the weekend. (1. a “terroir“ is a group of vineyards (or even vines) from the same region, belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of soil, weather conditions, grapes and winemaking savoirfaire, which contribute to give its specific personality to the wine.)
While on this trip we shared a two-bedroom, twobathroom villa at Cypress lakes resort, with the men heading to the golf course on our last morning while the girls enjoyed a treatment at the on-site golden Door spa.
FOR MORE INFO VISIT: www.mcguiganwines.com.au www.tyrrells.com.au www.cypresslakes.com.au
WINE & FOOD
SeVenHill CellaRS, ClaRe Valley reviewed by susan tyrrell
On your travels you’ll also discover that some foodie pleasures never fade. Lunch on the veranda of an old country pub, fish and chips on the beach, an afternoon cream tea in a quaint café or tasting fine wine made by a third generation wine-maker. Hunter Valley Wine Region Australia’s oldest continuously planted wine region, the Hunter Valley, is just two hours’ drive north of Sydney. The region is an acclaimed producer of the world’s finest semillon as well as Australia’s best shiraz. More than 120 wineries and cellar doors are spread through the seven sub-regions of the Hunter Valley, many open for tastings
every day, some with wine tours and cooking schools as well as major events. The Hunter Valley also has a vibrant food culture to match its beautiful wines. Handmade, boutique cheeses, smokehouse goods, olives and olive oil, beef and poultry have inspired chefs here. You’ll enjoy their fine fare at sleek and contemporary restaurants overlooking vineyards or in relaxed, vine-covered cafes. As well as great food and wine you’ll find plenty to keep you entertained in the Hunter Valley. There is a wide range of stylish accommodation, treks and tours, galleries and golf courses, beautiful spas and exclusive retreats.
The oldest winery in the Clare Valley, Sevenhill Cellars provided an extremely memorable and noteworthy visit, combining distinctive wines with a rich history. established by the Jesuits in 1851 to produce sacramental wine, a tradition that continues today, visitors are struck first by the view of the old stone buildings, which include the original winery and cellar door, stately st. aloysius’ Church and the College building set among spacious gardens and surrounding vineyards. Fortunate to meet brother John May, the last in line of seven Jesuit winemakers at sevenhill Cellars, we were taken on a tour of the old winery, visiting the underground cellar, the church and crypt beneath. brother John May, sJ, Jesuit winemaker emeritus, has completed 48 vintages at the winery. it was an honour to have him guide us through the history of sevenhill Cellars. brother May arrived in the Clare valley in 1963 and his stewardship as winemaker/manager saw the emergence of sevenhill’s reputation for quality table wines, the growth of its cellar-door operation and visitor recognition of sevenhill as a notable location of religious and heritage character. sevenhill Cellars’ range of table wines are easy to recognise through brand names that have strong links to their Jesuit heritage. their wines are established as high quality, achieving an authentic expression of varietal character from their prime location within the Clare valley. in company with brother May, we tried the 2008 st. aloysius riesling and the inigo 2008 shiraz. the riesling had a hint of zesty citrus flavour with the character of bottle age. Pure and sophisticated. the inigo shiraz was exceptional, with rich characters of plum and mulberry and a touch of spice. Having the winemaker there to explain the subtle flavours greatly enhanced our tasting experience. we took a bottle of the inigo shiraz home, and have since found it on the shelves of our local liquor store. it is has become our favourite shiraz and i admit to re-telling our sevenhill Cellars’ experience to dinner guests on many occasions. different guests, of course. a new addition to their offerings is the Mary McKillop sainthood wine, a sauvignon blancsemillon, produced in partnership with the Mary McKillop Foundation to honour the canonisation of Mary. Proceeds from the sales of this wine supports the Foundation’s small, life-changing projects around australia. Having originally been established to make sacramental wine, sevenhill altar wine is still made as naturally as possible, with minimal winemaking intervention in conformity with the requirements of Canon law. it is sold widely to all Christian denominations in australia for use in religious services and is also largely exported.
FOR MORE INFO VISIT: www.sevenhill.com.au
travelling in australia magazine // 25
and orchids deck the tree-tops,
icky sticky date cake and a hot chocolate at Margaret river Chocolate Company. Pic courtesy of steve de vroom.
grapes, Barossa vally. tourism sa.
TIAM’S RovINg RePoRTeR, STeve de vRooM, dId SoMe SAMPlINg IN THe AReA. Howard Park Wines Howard Park Wines is the largest family owned winery in Western Australia, with operations in the Great Southern region at Denmark and in the Margaret River region. arriving at their Margaret river winery, you are drawn into the sweeping, tree-lined driveway and over a rustic stone bridge, through vineyards and on towards the impressive cellar door. Most australians will be familiar with the “Mad Fish” label, which is sold in major national chain outlets. Howard Park is excited about the launch of their “sideways” label, which is only available through independent outlets and, of course, at the cellar door. there are four wines in this series. they are all Margaret river regional wines and have been produced using biodynamics in the vineyard and sustainable practices in the winemaking and packaging departments. But most importantly, the wine is superb. VISIT: www.howardparkwines.com.au
Bettenay Wines, Margaret River The premium wine at Bettenay Wines is reason enough to visit, but when you add to it the allure of the French-style nougat that is produced here, the attraction is irresistible. Family owned and operated since 1989, the management and winemaking was taken over by greg Bettenay in 2002, signalling a distinct change in direction for the winery. His son, Bryce, is now winemaker and has introduced a range of homemade French-style nougat, which is to die for. the nougat has become so popular that they are now planning to set up a professional manufacturing facility dedicated to its production. nougat is not easy to produce, however, Bryce has mastered the art and its fame is spreading. greg Bettenay told me that 99% of their sales are made at the cellar door, with the rest coming from a small but growing mail-order list. You won’t find their product in retail outlets. Bettenay also have romantic apartment accommodation available at the winery. their vineyard villas overlook a five-acre trout-filled lake and picturesque vineyard, with a country cottage decor offering every comfort. VISIT: www.bettenaywines.com.au
Cambray Sheep Cheese, Nannup Lush grassy paddocks, contented sheep and cheeses that fill your mouth with sensuous flavour. That is award-winning Cambray Sheep Cheese at Nannup, about an hour’s drive from Margaret River, owned by Jane and Bruce Wilde.
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and ferns the warm dark soil.
Born from Jane’s passion for cheese-making and Bruce’s experience in sheep farming, Cambray sheep Cheese is a true family business, with son tom and partner emma all busy in the dairy. sheep cheese is higher in nutrients, lower in cholesterol and has a creamier texture than cheese made from other types of milk. sheep only yield about one litre of milk per day, compared with five litres from goats and 30 litres from cows. this makes production extremely labour intensive as the sheep still need to be milked twice each day. Cambray make a comprehensive range from French-style soft cheese, fresh fetta, tangy mould cheese, tasty aged hard cheese and seeded cheese. You can enjoy a tasting and relax with a tea or coffee, accompanied by fruit cake topped with a slice of their premium sheep cheese. Cambray runs two-day cheesemaking courses that are each limited to six participants. You can also stay at the four-star cottages on the Cambray farm. VISIT: www.cambraysheepcheese.com.au
The Margaret River Chocolate Company The Margaret River Chocolate Company is one of the great highlights of any visit to this region. Even Willy Wonka’s eyes would pop if he was to walk through the door into the Great Hall of All Things Yummy at one of the most prestigious chocolate makers in Australia. Picture rows of large tables stacked high with pyramids of chocolate in all shapes and forms. there are over 200 different products in all, from premium chocolate bars to hand-made truffles, chocolate sauces and even chocolate body products. there are chocolate recipe books for anyone who wishes to venture into the culinary art of this Food of the gods. self-service is the order of the day and a counter running the length of one wall is attended by numerous uniformed sales assistants ready to receive your selection. towards the back of the hall is a choc-cafe bar with delectable desserts and real hot chocolate made in the Belgian way, with scrapings of rich chocolate melted in a glass of hot milk. i had a real hot chocolate and a slice of icky sticky date cake. Mmmm. visitors can watch the chocolate-manufacturing process through a large window into the factory. a feeling of wellbeing is said to be one of the sideeffects of eating chocolate, but be warned... your credit card will melt faster than a chocolate bar in a hot little hand should you be brave enough to bring your kids to this place. VISIT: www.chocolatefactory.com.au
Bettany Wines cellar door. Pic courtesy of steve devroom.
greg Bettany, Bettany Wines. Pic courtesy of steve devroom.
WINE & FOOD
“Moonshine Madness’’ in
stanthorPe for susan tyrrell
Poachers Way, canberra region Located in Canberra and the region, Poachers Way is a collective inspired by land and life. Immerse yourself in the lifestyle and passions of these creators by planning your visit to discover exceptional artists, chefs, winemakers, galleries and rural retreats. Visit cool-climate wineries, country cafes, art galleries and craft studios on this selfdrive through the Canberra countryside. This is a region where you can enjoy the fruits of country labour – a table laden with delicious food and a bottle of last year’s vintage. Stay in a bed-and-breakfast where you sleep in crisp linen sheets and wake to birdsong on the veranda. Buy handmade glassware and pottery from the galleries and taste wood-smoked meats and homemade wine on a farm. Visit: www.thepoachersway.com.au
Queensland Queensland offers a gourmet paradise with delectable, award-winning wines, organic produce and fresh seafood. Follow a food and wine trail and you’ll be sipping on a chardonnay or rolling a shiraz around your mouth on a grape-fuelled adventure. Wineries are often located in picturesque settings, and many offer the opportunity for picnics in grassy knolls overlooking vineyard slopes. Queensland’s multicultural communities add spice to culinary delights. Australian cuisine blends fresh ingredients and uses European culinary traditions and the light touch of Asian seasoning. You’ll taste some of the best food in the world in Queensland, and even the most discerning diner will be satisfied. With fresh barramundi, mud crab, exotic crocodile meat, mangoes and macadamia nuts… that’s how you’ll really know you’re in Queensland.
An autumn trip to the wine and food trails around Stanthorpe left me stunned by the variety and quality of produce there. starting with a visit to Heritage estate Winery, just a three-hour drive from the gold Coast, was the perfect weekend getaway. a colleague had mentioned a liqueur called “Moonshine Madness“ and i was determined to taste this elixir of romance. Heritage estate Wines began in 1992 when Bryce and Paddy Kassulke lovingly restored the old Cottonvale cold stores (circa 1933) and planted chardonnay, merlot, shiraz and cabernet directly across the road. the well-established vineyard now also has verdelho and sauvignon varieties, and their Ballandean vineyard comprises many varieties, such as shiraz, rousanne, marsanne and tokay. visitors are always welcome at the antiquefilled cellar door and to tour the vineyard. they offer complimentary tastings of their awardwinning wines, hosted by knowledgeable and friendly staff. We enjoyed a coffee and cheese platter on the terrace overlooking the vineyard. Back to the purpose of my visit. Moonshine Madness. a coffee chocolate liqueur port made with a fortified wine base. they say serve chilled or over ice. i brought a bottle home and have found it very useful as an adjunct to dessert – soaking berries and serving with fresh cream and chocolate shavings and as a major component in affogato. it’s time to return to stanthorpe, my supply is running low.
FOR MORE INFO VISIT: www.heritagewines.com.au
travelling in australia magazine // 27
Core of my heart, my country!
SuSan Tyrrell
reminiSCeS aBout Her laSt taSSie HoliDay With a busy working port almost in the heart of the city, Hobart is a seafood lover’s delight. Fishing boats unload their catches just a few steps away from the waterfront restaurants. nearby oyster and mussel farms supply local restaurants and the fish punts in Constitution Dock – they’re as fresh as you’ll ever taste. My favourite place to visit on saturdays was the salamanca Market’s food and produce stalls, destined to tempt visitors with a variety of delights – hot-baked potatoes, fresh-baked bread, delicious chutneys and pickles and beautifully presented vegetables. While driving right around tasmania on this trip, another standout location was strahan. strahan has always been a working fishing port. today, the town’s lobster boats and long-liners still tie up at the wharf to unload their catch, not far from lady Jane Franklin ii, the magnificent gordon river Cruise boat. Fresh, sweet and succulent, a West Coast lobster (tasmanian crayfish to the locals) is a rare treat. in quiet corners of Macquarie Harbour, the floating rings of marine farms dot the surface – tasmanian atlantic salmon and ocean trout thrive in the chilly waters. strahan restaurants offer the freshest salmon and trout you’ll ever taste direct from net to plate. to accompany the West Coast’s unforgettable seafood, a tasmanian chardonnay, riesling or sauvignon blanc is the perfect choice. there is so much to see and do in tasmania, with a wide choice of accommodation along the way. We stayed in B & Bs, luxury hotels, quaint oceanside cottages with little penguins outside the door and even a converted dairy. accommodation, food, wine and sensational picture-postcard views at every turn made this a memorable trip.
FOR MORE INFO VISIT: www.puretasmania.com.au
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Her pitiless blue sky,
Wine bottles on ice, Hunter valley. Pic courtesy of Darren tieste, tourism nsW.
With an ever-increasing stable of awardwinning wines available from all regions, the secret is out about Queensland’s flourishing wine industry. Established in the 1860s, winegrowing has a long history in Queensland, but the success of its wines is only now starting to be realised on the national and international stage. Charming cellar doors, friendly winemakers, vineyard restaurants, gourmet food, wine trails and cosy accommodation options help visitors make the most of the major wine regions, which stretch from the Gold Coast Hinterland, through the Scenic Rim and out to the Granite Belt, around the Darling Downs and Toowoomba, and up to the South and North Burnett. Further north in Tropical North Queensland fruit wines are generating increasing interest. There are eight major areas in Queensland that boast a great selection.
Granite Belt Thanks to its strong Italian community, the Granite Belt has had a long history of viticulture and winemaking. Its cool winter and spring climates make it an ideal viticultural area and an attractive holiday destination. The wineries of the region are
small to medium size and are owned and managed by families or individuals whose passion shows in great Queensland wine. toowoomba and Darling Downs Wineries perched right on the edge of the Great Dividing Range or nestling among rolling hills are some of the great finds in this area. Stop for lunch, try some wines and take advantage of the great views. Winemaking traditions are strong in this region, which produces award-winning whites and reds, tasty muscats and sweet table wines. Scenic rim Within a short drive of Brisbane there are a number of vineyards and wineries that have been established in the Scenic Rim, which stretches from Mt Cotton to the picturesque Brisbane Valley. You can explore this picturesque area in a day, a weekend or longer, but you won’t come home emptyhanded. Gold Coast Hinterland A spectacular wine region featuring boutique wineries and vineyards set in the rainforest beauty of Mount Tamborine and the emerald countryside of Albert River and Canungra. Although it’s only half an
WINE & FOOD
hour from the beaches of the Gold Coast, the area’s temperate climate has ideal grape-growing conditions. Look for superb restaurants, cheese tastings, gourmet picnics and vineyard tours at the cellar door. Sunshine Coast One of the most diverse and fastest-growing wine regions is centred around the Sunshine Coast, with small boutique vineyards that handpick their grapes and hand-prune their vines. Vineyards can be found high up in the cooler-climate Blackall Range, Kenilworth and Traveston areas, through to the milder climates in the valleys near the coast. A diversity of microclimates allows a wide range of grape varieties to be grown within the region. South Burnett The gentle, undulating countryside of the Stuart and Boyne River plain in the west and Barkers Creek in the east is the heart of one of the newer winemaking areas, the South Burnett, centred around Kingaroy. This award-winning region is the fastestdeveloping wine area in Queensland, with 600 acres in 25 vineyards currently in the area. North Burnett Most do not expect to find a winegrowing region this far north, but the unique, coastal, dry winter/dry summer climate in Central Queensland combined with prevailing sea breezes has created excellent conditions for creating dry and easy-drinking fruity styles perfectly matched to the Queensland climate. Tropical North Queensland The fruit-wine industry in Tropical North Queensland has gone beyond being the little cousin to the grape-wine industry by producing some award-winning wine with an abundance of flavour shown and
consistent quality. Located in and around the Cairns Highlands, the wineries use tropical fruits such as mango, banana, lychee, pineapple, passionfruit, black sapote, pitaya and other tropical fruits, as well as citrus and other Australian native fruits, including the Davidson Plum and Lemon Aspen. Visit: www.destinationqueensland.com
TaSmaNia Tasmania has cool-climate wines made from grapes grown in climates similar to those of the famous European wines – with mild summers and long autumn days that ripen the grapes slowly and surely. You can tour the Tasmanian Wine Routes easily by car or on guided tours. The island’s Wine Routes include the Tamar Valley, north of Launceston along both sides of the Tamar River and east to Pipers River; the Derwent, Coal River and Huon Valleys (together comprising the Southern Wine Route), an easy drive from Hobart; and the growing wine regions of the North West and the East Coast. Tasmania’s first vineyard was planted at New Town, a Hobart suburb, in 1821. In 1848, its white wine won an award at the Paris Exhibition. Tasmania now produces such elegant cool-climate wines as pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, pinot gris and sparkling wines. Most vineyards and wineries are small, with many offering tastings at their cellar-door outlets. Several wineries have beautifully situated restaurants offering vineyard or water views. ViCToria Victoria boasts over 850 wineries, of which 650 have cellar doors, in 21 distinct wine regions. Enjoy cellar-door tastings and dine
a holistic approach
Visit our Cellar Doors Miamup Road, Cowaramup, WA Scotsdale Road, Denmark, WA
on local produce at winery restaurants. From the cool-climate varieties of the Yarra Valley to the big reds of Rutherglen, create your own Victorian wine experience. around melbourne Melbourne’s surrounds are unique – five winegrowing regions within 90 minutes of the city. And where there’s good wine there’s always great food, markets and festivals. North-East Victoria Five individual regions – Rutherglen, Beechworth, Glenrowan, King Valley and Alpine Valley – producing a diverse range of wines from old-style fortifieds to the newer Italian varietals. Central Victoria Stretching from the bountiful Goulburn Valley, west to the opulent city of Bendigo, east to the magnificent High Country, and north to Echuca on the Murray. Western Victoria Head west to mountains, goldfields and four distinctive wine regions. Follow the Great Ocean Road and the Great Grape Road, tasting spectacular wines along the way. South-East Victoria Head east to Gippsland and three separate sub-regions with their own microclimates and wine styles. Discover over 100 individual vineyards and about 30 small, family owned wineries. North-West Victoria With its Mediterranean climate tempered by the Murray River, north-west Victoria is home to vast orchards, citrus and olive groves, grain fields and, of course, vineyards. Visit: www.visitvictoria.com
Enviro friendly wines: •sustainable and organic viticultural practices •cartons made from 100% recycled materials •lightweight bottles
www.madfishwines.com.au travelling in australia magazine // 29
Panoramic views from north Bay, lord Howe island. Pic courtesy of sally Mayman, tourism nsW.
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When, sick at heart, around us
ISLANDS
Idyllic island getaways History and diversity mark TIAM’s island round-up in this issue Australia is fringed by more than 8000 islands, offering every type of holiday experience. Sail through the Whitsundays, 4WD to Fraser Island’s rainforests and lakes or pick a tropical paradise in the Great Barrier Reef. Uncover the unique culture of Norfolk Island. Explore
the wildlife havens of Kangaroo Island in South Australia or French and Phillip islands in Victoria. Day trip to gorgeous Rottnest Island from Perth or cruise the remote, spectacular Buccaneer Archipelago, off the coast of Derby. Island hop around Sydney Harbour or fly to Lord Howe Island, home to the world’s southernmost coral reef. Discover the wild beauty of the islands off Tasmania, itself Australia’s biggest island.
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We see the cattle die –
AJ1613.1.4
For real time out
A R A J I L L A R E T R E AT, L O R D H O W E I S L A N D
600 kms off the Australian mainland lies spectacular World Heritage listed Lord Howe. Here, at the Island’s sheltered northern end at Old Settlement Beach, is Arajilla. Family owned and managed, there are twelve beautifully appointed luxury suites, some with two-bedrooms. On offer are a relaxing guest lounge and the island’s renowned Arajilla Restaurant, plus the Ayurvedic Wellness Spa – all nestled within an ancient Banyan and Kentia Palm forest.
Walk deserted beaches, swim the safe lagoon, go snorkelling, diving or fishing, be pampered with massage or body treatment, do yoga or simply read – at Arajilla it’s your time.
T:
1800 063 928
W:
www.arajilla.com.au
rajilla L O R D
H O W E
I S L A N D
ISLANDS
Lord Howe Island
Tranquillity reigns on World Heritage-listed Lord Howe Island, which sits in the Tasman Sea, less than two hours’ flight from Brisbane or Sydney. Only 400 visitors are allowed, bicycles are the best way to get around and there’s no mobile phone reception. Bushwalk through the island’s native Kentia palm forests and swim from white-sand beaches. Snorkel and dive in protected, temperate waters on the world’s southernmost coral reef. There are more than 50 sites teeming with green turtles, colourful coral and fish. If you’re feeling brave, tackle the arduous climb to the top of Mount Gower. It takes 8-10 hours and is rope-assisted! Lord Howe is also Australia’s premier bird-watching destination, with over 14 species of seabirds nesting on the island — and most readily seen, including one of the world’s rarest birds, the Lord Howe Island woodhen. And at day’s end, sip a cold beer or glass of wine and watch the sun sink into the sea. Lord Howe Island is not a “resort” island: all the accommodation (17 in total) is owned and operated by islanders and ranges from self-catering cottages and apartments, to traditional guesthouses through to boutique luxury lodges. Wherever you stay, you’re assured of friendly hospitality and an unforgettable holiday. As there is a limit of 400 tourists on the island at any time, you need to confirm your accommodation before you leave home. Camping is not allowed on the island.
Arajilla is Lord Howe’s premier retreat
Nestled under a canopy of Kentia palms and banyan trees just seconds from the beach, Arajilla Retreat is a haven of tranquillity and relaxation for a lucky few guests. Family owned and managed, there are just 12 beautifully appointed luxury suites, some with two bedrooms. On offer is a relaxing guest lounge, plus the island’s renowned Arajilla Restaurant with its tantilising international menu and seafood emphasis. Not to be missed is the Arajilla Wellness Spa that specialises in soothing, ancient, India Ayurveda techniques to give guests pure relaxation and healing. Arajilla’s all-inclusive tariff and range of special value-added packages makes for the ideal holiday escape. Walk deserted beaches, swim the safe Hiking Mt gower, lord Howe island. Pic courtesy of grahame McConnell, tourism nsW.
snorkelling, lord Howe island. Pic courtesy of grahame McConnell, tourism nsW.
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But then the grey clouds gather,
aerial view of norfolk island
lagoon, go snorkelling, diving or fishing, be pampered with massage or body treatment or simply read - at Arajilla it’s your time. VISIT: www.lordhoweisland.info
Norfolk Island
Located in the heart of the South Pacific between Australia and New Zealand and spanning just 34 sq km (13 square miles) with 32km of coastline and 80km of laneways where cows still have the right of way. This diminutive Island jewel will immerse you in an adventure filled with living history, vibrant culture and spectacular scenic beauty. It is a lush, beautiful island with sandy beaches, jagged cliffs and tall pine trees supported by a local community with a simple, laid-back way of life. The first arrivals were probably East Polynesian seafarers, arriving in the 14th or 15th centuries – who stayed for a few generations – then departed. Captain Cook encountered Norfolk Island in 1774. He described it as “Paradise”. The island was uninhabited (except for some unique wildlife) and he named it after the Duchess of Norfolk. 34 // travelling in australia magazine
and we can bless again
Governor Arthur Philip established a prison colony here in 1788, but this was disbanded in 1814. The island then lay abandoned until it became a second, much harsher, penal colony from 1825 until 1856. Visitors to Norfolk Island can find ruins left over from convict settlements, over 170 native plants and ferns, and several types of seabirds that come to the island to breed. Many of the residents of Norfolk are descended from the Pitcairn Islanders from The Mutiny on the Bounty. Along with some later arrivals to Pitcairn Island, the Nobbs, Buffett, Evans, Quintal, Christian, Adams, Youngs and McCoy families moved – lock, stock and barrel – to Norfolk Island in 1856 by order of Queen Victoria. Today, as a mark of gratitude, “God Save the Queen” remains the national anthem of Norfolk Island. Visitors will notice a strong Polynesian influence in the local cuisine and the hula dance. Today Norfolk Island is an External Territory under the authority of the Commonwealth of Australia. It is governed under the provisions of the Norfolk Island Act 1979 (Commonwealth), which
the Polynesian influence, norfolk island.
established a nine-member Legislative Assembly with power to legislate for the peace, order and good government of the island. The Assembly is elected by island residents. Norfolk Island has a wide range of accommodation options available. The town centre offers the more traditional hotel/motel-style accommodation, while up in the hills and along Norfolk’s coastline there are a number of excellent B&B and apartment-style establishments.
Governors Lodge Resort
Set among Norfolk Island Pines and 12 acres of subtropical landscaped gardens, this delightful resort offers Executive and Deluxe lodges. These freestanding lodges are complete with kitchenette facilities, verandas,
the neck, adventure Bay, tasmania. Courtesy of tourism tasmania and southern Cross television.
36 // travelling in australia magazine
The drumming of an army,
ISLANDS the colourful nudibranch, abrolhos islands, Western australia. Courtesy of tourism Western australia.
lounge, dining and private bathrooms. It is located only an eight minute walk to lowtax shopping outlets and the centre of Burnt Pine Township. Any time of year is a good time to visit Governor’s Lodge Resort, with alfresco dining and pristine swimming pool to enjoy the summer sun and all-year-round heated spa and gas-heated Baileys Restaurant to keep warm in the winter. VISIT: www.norfolkisland.com.au
Lady Elliot Island
At Lady Elliot Island on the Great Barrier Reef, you can step off the beach and snorkel, swim or dive in an underwater holiday world of brilliantly coloured species of marine life, or just simply relax and soak in the natural island atmosphere. The lagoon protects and nurtures the curiosity of the beginners, while a little further out experienced snorkellers and divers descend to see the coral sea. Lady Elliot Island is one of only three island resorts on the Great Barrier Reef, Australia, and the only resort with direct flight access to the island airstrip. The island is located within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in the highest possible classification of Marine National Park Zone. Lady Elliot is an island teeming with life and live corals, famous for a resident population of 40 manta rays which form the iconic logo of the island. Tour the reef in a glass-bottomed boat, learn to scuba dive, feed the fish, take a guided reef walk or stroll to a deserted beach
and live the dream. With exceptionally clear water year round, you may encounter turtles, dolphins and a large variety of coral, fish and giant manta rays. If you are there for the right season you may see birds nesting, turtle hatchlings emerging from the sand or migrating humpback whales blow and breech. Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort offers several types of accommodation, with Island Suites being ideal for honeymooners and romantic getaways. These are one and two-bedroom, airconditioned, beachfront units with a separate bedroom and lounge area. All the rooms are fan-cooled and there are no televisions, radios or telephones to remind you of the life you’ve left behind. With the environment in mind, all linen is supplied and changed every third day. Fresh towels are available daily. Julie, from Vancouver, Canada went on a day trip to Lady Elliot Island ¬- “To save time, we were delighted to find the day tour that Lady Elliot offers. We enjoyed being in a small tour group with guide Alan Jones. Alan made us feel very comfortable and he was very patient with us when we went snorkelling for the first time in our lives! We could tell he really enjoyed his job by the enthusiasm he spread to us. I had started the day feeling lousy from jet lag, but soon forgot about it. The lunch provided was excellent. The whole island was wonderful to see... Would love to come again and stay a couple of days next time!” VISIT: www.ladyelliot.com.au >> travelling in australia magazine // 37
The steady soaking rain.
King island, tasmania. Courtesy of tourism tasmania and southern Cross television.
Masked Boobie Birds, lord Howe island Pic courtesy of Don Fuchs; tourism nsW
from Townsville to Mackay. There are two airports in the Whitsundays at Proserpine and Hamilton Island offering domestic flights to major Australian airports, and the Greyhound bus service operates from Brisbane and Cairns to Airlie Beach. A visit to the Whitsundays is a feast of the senses, surrounded by natural beauty, dotted with secluded beaches and friendly towns from which to explore. The hardest part is choosing how to fit it all in. Explore this incredible diversity from the bow of a sailboat… cruise through the islands and drop anchor for a quick snorkel and wake up to a sunrise over world-famous Whitehaven Beach. Or enjoy the spoils of a mainland resort with Coral Sea views at Airlie Beach, the gateway to the Whitsundays. Airlie Beach offers visitors a broad array of accommodation from stylish resort hotels on the water’s edge and apartments on the hillside overlooking the panorama of beach, bay and islands, to bed and breakfast options, motels, camping and caravan parks, as well as a host of backpacker accommodation.
Paradise Bay Eco Resort Tangalooma Island Resort
Moreton Island
Located off the coast from Brisbane, Moreton Island is about one and a half hours by vehicle ferry, the most popular transport to get to the island. The island has lots to offer in scenery, wildlife and history. The all-sand island has the highest sand mountain in the world called Mt Tempest and very little is developed on the island, which is why it is a National Park with three small town settlements and one resort as the only developments. The townships consist of mostly holiday houses held by people in Brisbane, with a few residents. What makes the island so attractive to tourism is its unspoilt white-sand beaches and crystal-clear water. The island has a lighthouse at Cape Moreton built by the early convicts, freshwater lakes dotted throughout, sand deserts, shipwrecks and marine life that is quite amazing by world standards. 38 // travelling in australia magazine
Core of my heart, my country!
Tangalooma’s wide range of resort facilities caters for all and offers guests of all ages the perfect destination for unique adventure, education, or nature-based experiences in a truly relaxed environment. There are five beachfront accommodation styles, each set amid luscious landscaped gardens and natural bushland, most with water views. Or take up residency in one of the exclusive new island holiday houses on the hill with million dollar views over Moreton Bay and the Glasshouse Mountains. From sun-up to sundown Tangalooma is a haven for those who want to relax and have fun, and with over 80 activities on offer there is something for everyone to enjoy. The highlight of any stay is the opportunity to closely interact with nature. Be enchanted by the playful antics of the wild dolphins that visit Tangalooma jetty each night. Echo, Nari and the rest of the family are always full of chatter and love to show off. Hand feed them as they gather at the shore or watch from the jetty. Either way the experience is unforgettable! VISIT: www.tangalooma.com
Whitsundays
Seventy-four islands, located in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, on the tropical coast of Queensland, stretching
Paradise Bay offers a unique blend of eco and luxury set in a brilliant contrast of sun-soaked beaches, crystal-clear water and pristine, untouched wilderness full of friendly local wildlife. It’s the ultimate in a romantic, environmentally friendly island. Enjoy lazy days exploring the Whitsundays on the resort’s private sailing and expedition boats, feast on gourmet meals with superb wines to match and enjoy the peace and quiet of this tranquil and stunningly beautiful location. With a maximum of just 20 guests at one time and no kids, no day visitors, no mobile phone reception or Internet, this is the ultimate, intimate escape... welcome to Paradise! VISIT: www.tourismwhitsundays.com.au and www.paradisebay.com.au
Western Australia
Blessed with picture-perfect turquoise lagoons, spectacular surf and reefs flush with colourful schools of fish, Western Australia has many island getaways. Rottnest Island is just a 30-minute cruise from Fremantle Harbour – an aquatic playground where visitors can swim, snorkel, scuba dive, surf and fish. It is a car-free zone, so bicycles provide transport. Historic old stone buildings and little marsupials called quokkas, which hop around at dawn and dusk, add to the unique charm of this tranquil spot. Near the coastal town of Rockingham is
ISLANDS Products of King island Dairy, tasmania. Courtesy of tourism tasmania and nick Osborne.
Islands comprise 42 pristine islands, many with coastal cliffs, valleys, sand plains and turquoise lagoons. VISIT: www.westernaustralia.com
Kangaroo Island
Penguin Island, home to the largest colony of little penguins on the west coast. The Archipelago of the Recherche in Esperance – otherwise known as the Bay of Isles – is home to hundreds of islands. Woody Island is the most popular – here you can snorkel among sea-dragons, explore famous dive wrecks, spot the local sea lions and camp overnight in safari tents. For a desert-island escape, visit the eerie Abrolhos Islands off the coast of Geraldton. With over 19 shipwrecks in its waters, including the famous Batavia shipwreck of 1629, you will find some of the finest diving in Australian waters. The Dampier Archipelago and Montebello
Winner:
The first thing that strikes you when you arrive on Kangaroo Island is the scale of the place. Only 15 kilometres from the South Australian mainland, the island is seven times larger than Singapore, with a breathtaking diversity of natural environments. For nature lovers, Kangaroo Island is a feast for the senses. There are secluded beaches and pastures where sheep farmers, beekeepers and winemakers produce the renowned local gourmet cuisine. There are small towns with intimate restaurants and stores showcasing local artwork, and dense, ancient forests that are only a short drive from the island’s charming hamlets. Take a 4WD trip into the island’s bushland areas and you’ll see koalas, echidnas and wallabies all in their own natural habitat. Join a guided night-time tour to see the famous little penguins march out of the ocean to their homes along the coastline. Venture to the remarkable western
2010 Tourism Whitsundays Best: Hosted accomodation, Eco & Sustainability
coastline of the island, where two of the Southern Hemisphere’s three species of seals have made their homes among a dramatic backdrop of tumultuous seas and rocky coastal outcrops. Your hosts will be members of an eclectic local community of farmers, artists, ecologists, fishers and adventurer lovers. Some were born on the island. Others visited and never wanted to go home again. But they’ve all got one thing in common - a love affair with this special place. VISIT: www.southaustralia.com
Tasmania
More than 300 islands surround the Tasmanian mainland, creating havens for wildlife and native flora. Until recently many of Tasmania’s 334 offshore islands were a mystery. Aside from the larger ones such as Flinders, King, Maria, and Bruny, little was known of their animal life, vegetation and natural features. We now know they are home to many species of seabirds, native birds, seals, reptiles and unusual vegetation, and each has unique characteristics and significant historical and natural features. Some are easily accessible and receive many visitors, while others >>
2010 TripAdvisor.com Travellers’ Choice Best: Service; Romance; Bargain
2011 TripAdvisor.com Travellers’ Choice Best: ‘Service’ Hotel in the South Pacific
An ecologically responsible haven with just 10 waterfront bungalows, an all-inclusive tariff including gourmet food and wine, unpretentious luxury, sailing and aquatic adventures and utter peace (no TV, phones, children, ferries or day visitors).
ParadiseBay
Island Eco Escape - Whitsundays
www.paradisebay.com.au
07 4946 9777
info@paradisebay.com.au
travelling in australia magazine // 39
Footprints in the sand. Pic courtesy of tourism tasmania and Dennis Harding.
remain isolated and, therefore, undisturbed. Following the exploitation of some Tasmanian offshore islands during the past two centuries, awareness of their natural values increased and many were set aside as conservation reserves. You are asked not to visit these islands during breeding seasons and not to land where there are seals, pelicans, white-fronted terns, fairy terns or Australasian gannets.
history and livelihood are linked with Bass Strait: the island’s kelpies gather bull kelp tossed on shore by storms, while cray fishermen and abalone divers harvest rich catches from beneath the surface. On King Island’s flat farmlands, beef and dairy cattle shelter behind thick ti-tree hedges - the lush grass is the secret to the succulent local beef, rich cream and wonderful handmade cheeses.
King Island
Bruny Island
King Island lies in the path of the Roaring Forties, the ever-present westerlies that circle the world’s southern latitudes. It’s an island of long, empty beaches and clean, fresh air, offshore reefs, rocky coasts, lighthouses and more than 70 shipwreck sites. It is also the home of King Island Dairy. There are around 1000 people on the island, and they are proud of their independence and resourcefulness. Their 40 // travelling in australia magazine
Land of the rainbow gold,
Bruny Island has a permanent population of around 550 people. It has wild seascapes, sweeping surf and quiet channel beaches, coastal walks, sealife cruises, fishing, rare birdlife and wildflowers, tall forests, farmlands, and an historic lighthouse. Most of the roads are unsealed. Despite being only 35 minutes by car from Hobart, and a 20-minute ferry ride from Kettering, Bruny seems another world
away. You can stay at one of the many bed and breakfast or cottage accommodation options, and there are small grocery stores at Lunawanna and Adventure Bay. Bruny Island is really about 50 kilometres (31 miles) long, but appears to be two islands; North and South Bruny are joined by a narrow strip of land called The Neck. This isthmus of land connects North and South Bruny Island. The Neck, as locals call it, is an important habitat for native wildlife. There are boardwalks and viewing platforms at The Neck Reserve, enabling you to watch short-tailed shearwaters and little penguins (also known as fairy penguins). The Reserve has an interpretation board and during peak viewing times there is a guide present at dusk. The best viewing period is during the warmer months - September to February. Follow the timber stairs from the dunes to The Neck lookout, offering stunning 360-degree views. VISIT: www.discovertasmania.com
ISLANDS
LADY ELLIOT ISLAND
Lady Elliot Island
day trip for a unique perspective Pure indulgence - lady elliot island. tourism Queensland.
The Lady Elliot Island Great Barrier Reef day trip is the only one of its type in Australia. The visit allows you to view one of the most pristine sections of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef from the air as well as from above and below the water, all in one day. The day visit begins from the Gold Coast, Brisbane or Sunshine Coast with Seair for a scenic coastal flight to Lady Elliot Island, a true coral cay on the southern Great Barrier Reef, overflying Fraser Island. Flights depart Hervey Bay and Bundaberg at approx 8:10am. Once on the island you can take a guided tour in a glass-bottom boat, snorkel among the most amazing coral formations and marine creatures, hand feed fish in the lagoon or take a guided reef walk with a knowledgeable guide. Come face-to-face with turtles, colourful coral and schools of reef fish. The coral gardens surrounding the island are also a breeding and feeding area for the giant “kites of the reef” – manta rays. Many guests have been fortunate to swim with these amazing creatures. Hosted by trained guides throughout the day, you will experience the best the reef has to offer before enjoying a delicious buffet lunch. The day visit departs from Lady Elliot for the Gold Coast, Brisbane or Sunshine Coast at 2.15pm, arriving back at your hotel at approximately 5pm. Day visit returns from Lady Elliot to Hervey Bay and Bundaberg at 4pm. BIo cALEndAR Turtle nesting Turtle Hatching Bird Nesting Whale watching Coral spawning
Nov-Feb Feb-April May June-Oct Nov-Dec (full moon)
HoLIdAy pAckAGEs : 1. Pay 5 stay 7 nights from $A 790pp 2. Pay 4 stay 5 nights from $A 632pp 3. Reef Escape – 2 nights incl. flights $A 659pp ovERnIGHT RATE IncLudEs: • Full buffet dinner and breakfast • Use of snorkel equipment and snorkel lesson if required • Glass-bottom boat/guided snorkel tour (one per person/stay) • Guided Reef Walk (on low tide) • Guided Bird Tour (in season) • Guided Island Tours/Activities • Environmental Management Charge Lady Elliot Island also caters for groups and runs education packages. www.ladyelliot.com.au travelling in australia magazine // 41
For flood and fire and famine
NORFOLK ISLAND
Governor’s Lodge Resort Hotel
Immersed In cultural hIstory, surrounded by subtropIcal gardens The Governor’s Lodge Resort Hotel, set among 12 acres of landscaped subtropical gardens featuring majestic Norfolk Pines, banana trees and fragrant hibiscus, presents the visitor with 55 individual, one-bedroom fully serviced lodges in a village setting. First-class facilities incorporating the signature Bailey’s Restaurant and garden marquee café provide a great value range of dining requirements – even locally grown and roasted arabica coffee. Resort Manager Alistair Unicomb invites guests to a “meet and greet” every Tuesday afternoon over a glass of local punch, giving a short presentation of Norfolk’s cultural history and an opportunity to meet fellow travellers and hotel management. Governor’s Lodge Resort Hotel stands on land that is part of an original 50-acre grant made to James Dawe, flour miller, soon after the arrival of the Pitcairners in 1856. Charles Christian, grandson of Fletcher Christian, purchased the land when James Dawe left the island. Charles left the land to Emily, one of his 16 children. Emily married George Bailey, who came to Norfolk in the 1860s to work in the Melanesian Mission, one of the first marriages between a Pitcairner and an “outsider”. They had six children. Seven-acre lots were given to four of Emily’s offspring, and this particular lot was given to her eldest son, Herbert. Herbert Bailey built his home on the land in the early 1900s, in time for the birth of his first son, George, in 1902. He named the homestead Elouera. This historic old homestead has been restored and serves now as the main restaurant on the resort, known as Bailey’s. The typical Norfolk-Style open-air veranda and high-ceiling interior provides an impressive, comfortable atmosphere to this stately home. The conversion from domestic dwelling to restaurant in 2002 has not lost the intimate ambience for a relaxing dining experience. A few highlights from the Norfolk Island events calendar include Burning of the Bounty and Summerfest in January, Opera in Paradise and Poetry in the Park in February and golf tournaments almost every month. There is a country music festival in May, the Rock ’n’ Roll Festival in September and a week of jazz in December. There are, of course, a lot of historic and cultural areas to explore on the island, or simply relax at the resort, read a book on your lodge veranda, relax by the pool or in the heated spa and enjoy the moderate climate and beautiful surroundings the island offers. The rates are reasonable and include 42 // travelling in australia magazine
She pays us back threefold.
lush tropical landscaping and a village style setting adds to the privacy and ambience at governor’s lodge resort Hotel, norfolk island.
accommodation, full breakfast and daily car hire. Most travel packages are also inclusive of airfares. Packages with bonus inclusions during low season, events and special-interest
pursuits are available and TIAM recommends you investigate combining these into your holiday experience. www.governorslodgeresort.com
NORFOLK ISLAND ???? there are 55 individual lodges at the resort.
Bailey’s restaurant was built in 1902 by the descendants of Fletcher Christian, now offering an exquisite variety of meals for hotel guests.
travelling in australia magazine // 43
Over the thirsty paddocks,
all pics courtesy of tim Crawshaw
Coober Pedy
a little ”opal fever“ strikes tiam writer and photographer Tim Crawshaw
the rugged landscape at Coober pedy.
The time is four o’clock. I’ve woken up from an afternoon nap in the car during the long drive south from Uluru. The landscape of our destination, Coober Pedy in South Australia, Opal Capital of the world, would have me thinking that I am still dreaming. The environs is arid and littered with worn-out trucks and mining machinery. A wasteland of sorts, everywhere we look we see mounds of gravel from the countless mineshafts that have been dug over the years. This is movie-set material. We drive past a hotel that claims to be the world’s only international underground hotel and book in. After a 50-metre walk underground to our room (the furthest room from the front door) we can definitely feel the natural cooling effect underground living has. The room has no window or natural ventilation. This is very novel accommodation. We learn that the local Greek restaurant, Tom and Mary’s, is the most popular in town among locals, so we head off to check out what’s on the menu. The place
44 // travelling in australia magazine
watch, after many days,
is packed and we order a Yeros (kebab, souvlaki), hoping that its simplicity will have it come sooner rather than later. We look around, trying to spot miners with big characters to make conversation with. What does a miner look like? After dinner we head back to the hotel, which has an underground bar. Disappointingly the place is very quiet, probably because it’s Sunday night. We order a nightcap and head back to our cave. A sunrise in Coober Pedy is as I would imagine a sunrise on another planet. As we drive around, the streets are quiet and empty. A light fog sweeps the main street and the reflective orange glow of the sun brings out the full colour of the rocky landscape. We arrive at the Catacomb Church, an underground place of worship run by the Anglican Church. The signs tell me that it is open at all times so we let ourselves in. The sanctuary is quite stunning. A wooden bush-style cross hangs behind the altar and a metallic bucket sits underneath. This church is Aussie.
The Serbian Orthodox Church is considered a must see while in town. Its interior is a lot more European. Candles are available for purchase and you can light a candle in the areas provided during your time there. The stone carvings are impressive and it’s really easy to soak up the unique atmosphere in this place without other visitors around. Driving around without any sense of direction in Coober Pedy turns out to be the best way - every street is a feast for the eyes. Quirky signs and shopfronts attempting to lure visitors in to buy opals and artwork are everywhere. We are told that 50 per cent of the town residents live underground and there is a strong multicultural feel. There is a place for public fossicking and I try my luck. Bingo! After just 10 minutes I notice a blue reflective light on the surface of the ground and I’m already starting to think about the new BMW I’m going to buy. I stick it in my pocket for later appraisal by someone who knows what they are talking about. The information centre in town provides
COOBER PEDDY, South Australia ???? an easy find, but not enough to buy a BMW!
guestroom in the Desert Cave Hotel.
tom’s Working Mine tour – hands-on and informative.
Catacomb Church – underground place of worship.
assistance with tours and offers easy self-drive maps. We decide to go on Tom’s Working Mine Tour, which offers a hands-on and informative mining experience. The kid in me laps up the opportunity to go for a ride up the mine shaft on the winch, prove that I can use divining rods and learn how to process opal if I decide to purchase a mining claim in the future. A self-guided tour is no substitute
for a guided tour run by a miner with firsthand experience of the opal mining industry’s contrasting times, which include horrific accidents, good fortune and great expense for no return. The tour also offers free “noodling” (fossicking) afterwards for those who want to try their luck in this location. The time has come to have my “lucky” find looked at. I’m told that it is a nice specimen
but lacking depth to cut. The advice is to give it a good polish and keep it as a momento. The sun’s light is fading, bringing the day’s experience of opal fever in Coober Pedy to an end. Despite not making my fortune I will leave understanding why this “other world” with 3500 inhabitants and 150,000 visitors per year has been described as a place of magic, mystery and hope.
Sleeping underground is a unique experience. Quiet, cool, dark and airy - the rooms are spacious with high ceilings. Most visitors say that sleeping underground gives them the best night’s sleep they have ever had! Experience: • Dug-out style living • Underground shops • Bar and opal display areas • Outstanding dining and convention facilities • Tours of the rugged outback
Coober Pedy, Outback South Australia Reser vations: +61 8 8672 5688 www.desertcave.com.au
travelling in australia magazine // 45
Comes fitfully and faintly through the ceaseless tramp of feet.
grape vines, hunter region.
Twelve Family Wineries
ONE VISION sharing the same beliefs and a genuine passion for creating wines of character, australia’s first families of wine is an exciting initiative created by 12 family owned wineries representing 16 regions across four states, with 1200 years of winemaking experience between them. They are the custodians of some of Australia’s finest vineyards, most famous wine names and irreplaceable history. All of the families are multi-generational. Some have made wine for 150 years and some began more recently. Brown Brothers Founded in 1885 and located in Milawa, Victoria, with chief winemakers Wendy Cameron and Joel Tilbrook. This is the home of one of Australia’s most seasoned and diverse ranges of quality wine. Steeped in tradition and inspired by innovation, every bottle comes from their family to you. Their landmark wines include the Patricia Cabernet Sauvignon, Patricia Shiraz, Patricia Chardonnay and Patricia Noble Riesling. Their regional heroes include Limited 46 // travelling in australia magazine
The filmy veil of greenness
Release Shiraz, Limited Release Pinot Grigio and Sparkling Shiraz. FAmily Third Generation // Ross Brown is the current CEO, John G. Brown former CEO and current Deputy Chairman, Brothers Peter Brown and Roger Brown were also involved in the winery. Fourth Generation // Eliza, Angela and Nicholas, Katherine, Caroline and Emma are Brand Ambassadors and actively involved in the industry. Visit: www.brownbrothers.com.au Campbells Founded in 1870 and located in Rutherglen, Victoria, with chief winemaker Colin Campbell. Campbells boasts 140 years of tradition, passion and experience that
combine to capture the full flavours of Rutherglen. Great wine takes time and Campbells have a hands-on approach and an uncompromising commitment to quality. Their landmark wines include Rutherglen Muscat, Rutherglen Tokay, “Isabella” Rare Rutherglen Tokay and “Merchant Prince” Rare Rutherglen Muscat. Their regional heroes are Bobbie Burns Shiraz and The Barkly Durif. FAmily Fourth Generation // Malcolm Campbell (Viticulturalist) and Colin Campbell (Winemaker). Fifth Generation // Susie Campbell (Sales and Marketing Manager). Visit: www.campbellswines.com.au
DISCOVERIES
Jacki Osborn (Sales – Sydney Distributor). Visit: www.darenberg.com.au De Bortoli Founded in 1928 and based in Bilbul, New South Wales, with chief winemakers Darren De Bortoli and Steve Webber. Established by Vittorio and Giuseppina De Bortoli after emigrating from the foothills of the Italian Alps. They have established a reputation for premium wine and the family values of hard work, generosity of spirit and sharing good food, wine and times with family and friends. Their landmark wine is Noble One Botrytis Semillon and their regional heroes are Yarra Valley Reserve Release and Estate Grown, Deen De Bortoli Vat Series. Family Second Generation // Emeri De Bortoli (chairperson). Third Generation // Darren De Bortoli (MD), Leanne De Bortoli (Yarra Valley Winery and Restaurant Manager). Chief Winemakers // Steve Webber (married to Leanne), Kevin De Bortoli (Company Viticulturalist), Victor De Bortoli (Export Director). Visit: www.debortoli.com.au
d’Arenberg Founded in 1912 and located in McLaren Vale, South Australia, with chief winemaker Chester Osborn. With a range of fortified and dessert wines that have legendary status worldwide, dÁrenberg claims the art of being different. They also operate d’Arry’s Verandah Restuarant, one of South Australia’s most highly awarded, set on a hilltop with the cellar-door tasting room adjoining. Their landmark wines include The Dead Arm Shiraz, The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, The Ironstone Pressings Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, and their regional heroes are The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier, The Money Spider Roussanne, The Last Ditch Viognier, The Derelict Vineyard Grenache, The Cadenzia Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, The Twentyeight Road Mourvedre. Family Third Generation // d’Arry Osborn OAM (Managing Director). Fourth Generation // Chester Osborn (Chief Winemaker),
Henschke Founded in 1868 and located in Keyneton, South Australia, with chief winemaker Stephen Henschke and viticulturalist Prue Henschke. Johann Christian Henschke purchased the land in 1861 after fleeing religious persecution in Silesia (Germany). He produced his first commercial vintage in 1868. Each generation built upon the reputation for quality, but it was fourth-generation Cyril Alfred Henschke who in 1958 created the wine that has most captured the red wine world’s imagination – Hill of Grace. His first vintage of this shiraz was produced in 1958. Their landmark wines include Hill of Grace, Mount Edelstone and Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, and their regional heroes are Julius Eden Valley Riesling, Johann’s Garden Grenache, Tappa Pass Shiraz, Lenswood Abbott’s Prayer, Littlehampton Innes Vineyard Pinot Gris. Family Fifth Generation // Stephen Henschke and wife Prue Henschke. Sixth Generation // Children Johann (Winemaker), Justine and Andreas. Visit: www.henschke.com Howard Park Founded more recently in 1986, located in the Margaret River region, Western Australia, with chief winemakers Janice MacDonald and
Genevieve Stols. It is also Western Australia’s largest boutique family owned winery, and since its inception in 1986 Howard Park’s philosophy has been to craft outstanding boutique wines of great subtlety, character, balance and elegance with an uncompromising commitment to quality. Their landmark wines include Howard Park “Abercrombie” Cabernet Merlot, Howard Park Riesling, and their regional heroes are Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon, Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon, Howard Park Leston Shiraz, Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz, Howard Park Chardonnay, Marchand and Burch Chardonnay, Marchand and Burch Pinot Noir, Marchand and Burch Shiraz. Family First Generation // Jeff Burch (Owner and CEO), Amy Burch (Owner and Marketing Director), brother David P Burch (Vineyard Manager) and sister Lesley Scogna (Brand Manager). Second Generation // Natalie Burch (Operations Manager) and David W Burch Jnr (Sales and Marketing). Visit: www.howardparkwines.com.au Jim Barry Wines Founded in 1959 and located in Clare, South Australia, with chief winemaker Peter Barry. The late Jim Barry was the first qualified winemaker to work in the Clare Valley of South Australia and with his wife, Nancy, built a successful wine business that has produced trophy-winning wines since its establishment in 1959. Today, the company is headed by Jim’s second son, Peter, who took over from his father as Managing Director. The winery has an innovative approach to viticulture and a strong commitment to technological excellence in winemaking. “Sometimes it takes longer than a lifetime to do a lifetime’s work… it’s now up to my children.” – Jim Barry 1925 - 2004. Their landmark wines include The Armagh, The McRae Wood, The Benbournie and The Florita, and their regional heroes are The Lodge Hill Shiraz, The Lodge Hill Riesling and Watervale Riesling. Family First generation – Jim Barry graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College in 1947 holding only the 17th Oenology Diploma in Australia. He was the family’s patriarch and passed away in 2004. His wife, Nancy, is still involved in the family business. Second Generation // Peter Barry (Managing Director) and John Barry (Viticulturalist). Third Generation // Tom Barry (Winemaking), Olivia Barry (Sales) and Sam Barry. Visit: www.jimbarry.com travelling in australia magazine // 47
That thickens as we gaze.
Bruce tyrrell, tyrrells Wines, in the vineyard. Hunter region, nsW.
Jeff Burch, Howard Park, in the vineyard. Margaret river region, Wa.
McWilliams award winning label’. nsW.
Chateau tahbilk signature label. viC.
McWilliam’s Founded in 1877 and located at McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, New South Wales, with chief winemakers Jim Brayne, Corey Ryan, Phillip Ryan, Scott McWilliam. McWilliams has witnessed and helped shape the evolution of the Australian Wine Industry. In key regions, at the turning point of innovation and on the dais of many wine shows, you can find McWilliam’s Wines. It’s because great wines are made by people, not by corporations. Throughout the last century and well into this one, McWilliam’s Wines has branched out into the regions, brands, varietals and styles that wine lovers seek, showcasing more than 130 years of innovation and exploration. Their landmark wines include McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz, McWilliam’s 1877 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, McWilliam’s Morning Light Botrytis Semillon. Their regional heroes are McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Semillon, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Florence Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Rosehill Shiraz, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant OP & OH Shiraz. 48 // travelling in australia magazine
an opal-hearted country,
representatives from all 12 winemaking families at the launch of australia’s First Families of Wine, sydney, nsW.
Family Fourth Generation // Don McWilliam AM (Director), Max McWilliam (Director), Andrew McWilliam (Director). Fifth Generation // Doug McWilliam (Chairman), Brian McWilliam (Director), Stephen McWilliam (National Sales Development Manager) and Timothy McWilliam (Cellar Foreman). Sixth Generation // Scott McWilliam (Senior Winemaker), Karen McWilliam (Family Ambassador). Visit: www.mcwilliams.com.au Tahbilk Founded in 1860 and located at Nagambie Lakes, Victoria, with chief winemakers Alister Purbrick, Alan George (married Debbie Purbrick) and Neil Larson. Tahbilk is one of Australia’s most beautiful and historic wineries. The property comprises some 1214 hectares of rich river flats with a frontage of 11 kms to the Goulburn River and eight kms of permanent backwaters and creeks. The vineyard comprises 200 hectares of vines, including the French Rhone Valley whites of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne; the Rhone reds – Shiraz, Grenache and
Mourvedre; along with traditional varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho. Their landmark wines include Tahbilk “1860 Vines” Shiraz, Tahbilk “Eric Stevens Purbrick” Shiraz, Tahbilk “Eric Stevens Purbrick” Cabernet Sauvignon, Tahbilk “1927 Vines” Marsanne. Their regional heroes are Tahbilk Marsanne, Tahbilk Viognier, Tahbilk Shiraz, Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon. Family Third Generation // John Purbrick (Chairman). Fourth Generation // Alister Purbrick (Chief Winemaker and CEO), Debbie George (Board) and Mark Purbrick (Board). Fifth Generation // Hayley Purbrick (Cellar Door and Wine Club Manager). Visit: www.tahbilk.com.au Taylors Founded in 1969 and located in Auburn, South Australia, with chief winemakers Adam Eggins and Helen McCarthy. Taylors has become one of Australia’s best loved and trusted wineries. The tale of Taylors’
DISCOVERIES
McWilliams Mt. Pleasant brand. nsW.
Chester and d’arry Osborn, d’arenburg, Mclaren vale, sa.
the famous Henschke label. sa.
grapes on the vine.
susie and Colin Campbell, Campbells, rutherglen, viC.
wine-making goes back a few years – three generations in fact, and all began with Bill Taylor Senior, and his love of a certain Bordeaux wine. Originally wine merchants in Sydney, a passion for wine was all part of being a Taylor, and in particular, for the famous French Clarets such as Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux’s Medoc region. It was this long-held fascination for these wines that inspired the family’s foray into winemaking, and provides the inspiration and winemaking philosophy behind all Taylors’ winemaking today – to produce premium wines of exceptional and comparable quality in Australia. Their landmark wines include Taylors St Andrews range, and their regional heroes are Taylors Estate Range, Clare Valley and Jaraman Range. Family Second Generation // Bill Taylor (Chairman). Third Generation // Mitchell Taylor (Managing Director and Consulting Winemaker), Justin Taylor (Company Director, US Business Development), Clinton Taylor (Company Director and Project Manager – Sales and Production). Visit: www.taylorswines.com.au
steve Webber and leanne DeBortoli, DeBortoli Wines, Bilbul, nsW.
Tyrrell’s Founded in 1858 and located at Pokolbin, New South Wales, with chief winemakers Andrew Spinaze and Mark Richardson (Red Winemaker). Rich in history and pioneering achievements, English immigrant Edward Tyrrell established Tyrrell’s Wines in 1858 in the lee of the Hunter Valley’s Brokenback Range, New South Wales. This land has become recognised as home to some of the Hunter Valley region’s finest vineyards, and the basis for development of one of Australia’s most successful privately owned wine companies. Today, Tyrrell’s are a truly national wine company. Premium vineyards extend from their legendary home in the Hunter Valley to other distinguished grapegrowing regions of Australia, including McLaren Vale in South Australia and Heathcote in Victoria. Their landmark wines include Vat 1 Hunter Semillon, Vat 47 Hunter Chardonnay, Vat 9 Hunter Shiraz, and their regional heroes are Stevens Semillon, HVD Semillon, Belford Semillon, Stevens Shiraz, Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz. Family Fourth Generation // Bruce Tyrrell (Managing Director). Fifth Generation //
Yalumba. Founded in 1849. sa.
Chris Tyrrell (Assistant Winemaker), Jane (NSW Sales Manager) and John Tyrrell. Visit: www.tyrrells.com.au Yalumba Founded in 1849 and located in Angaston, South Australia, with chief winemaker Louisa Rose. Yalumba wines have a style all of their own and each have been influenced by a diverse range of elements, such as the Yalumba Vine Nursery and on-site cooperage. Yalumba’s history and innovation combine with a reputation for innovation. Their landmark wines include Yalumba “The Reserve” (Cabernet-Shiraz), Yalumba “The Signature” (Cabernet-Shiraz), Yalumba The Octavius (Old Vine Shiraz), Yalumba “The Virgilius” Viognier. Their regional heroes are Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier, Yalumba Barossa Valley Grenache, Yalumba FDR1A. Family Fifth Generation // Robert Hill Smith (CEO), Annabel Hill Smith (Events Management), Sam Hill Smith (Director). Sixth Generation // Jessica Hill Smith (Marketing and Sales Trainee). Visit: www.yalumba.com travelling in australia magazine // 49
a wilful, lavish land –
C o n f e r e nC e Camel-ride in Broome, Wa. Pic courtesy of tourism Wa.
lealearning to surf at surfers Paradise, QlD. Pic courtesy of tourism QlD.
50 // travelling in australia magazine
all you who have not loved her,
CORPORATE THISTRAVEL WAY IN
D OW n U n D E r SuSie ChriSTie, CeO, glObal SpeakerS & entertainerS, takeS a lOOk at venueS and SpeakerS fOr COnferenCeS, meetingS and inCentiveS in auStralia. Australia is a land of dreams – where a million stars shine bright over outback skies. It’s a land of sun-kissed beaches and vibrant cities, a land of tropical rainforests and mysterious wilderness. So what greater incentive, what finer reward, could you give your achievers than a trip to a land that most people can only dream about? Australia has the diversity, creativity, innovation, fine cuisine and sheer sense of fun to provide the memories of a lifetime. Transport can vary from high-speed catamaran and chartered jetliner, to camelback or stretch limousine. Energise your team with many activities outside the conference room. Challenge them to games on Australia’s pristine beaches or get physical with hiking and climbing. Perhaps cooking classes will develop teamwork, or go diving or snorkelling among Australia’s pristine marine life. Take your team to new heights
with some hot-air ballooning or boost their adrenalin with white-water rafting. Vineyard tours, golf and shopping trips are always popular activities too. There are great conference venues around the country, from resort facilities catering for large numbers, such as Sheraton Mirage on the Gold Coast and Surfair on the Sunshine Coast, to more intimate facilities suitable for small groups, such as an island resort or mountain retreat. With venues available in every State and region, the choices are almost unending. Once a suitable venue is found, another challenge can be organising speaking talent and entertainment. You need to know who your audience is and whether speakers from outside your industry or group are required. If utilising speakers in your program it is important to check that there are clear lines of sight from anywhere in the room and that sound and acoustics are good.>>
Venue CapaCity information: LoCation
faCiLity type TheaTre STyle
BanqueT STyle
ClaSSroom STyle
Adelaide
7155
4500
2910
Alice Springs
1200
800
720
Brisbane
4000
2740
1209
Cairns
5000
1300
730
Canberra
3200
1800
1700
Darwin
1000
400
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6021
2240
2106
Melbourne
5000
5000
5000
Perth
5200
3630
3545
Sunshine Coast
1280
800
650
Sydney
3500
3500
800
Tasmania
1600
1000
750
Townsville
5200
1000
980
Whitsundays
1000
800
650
travelling in australia magazine // 51
You will not understand –
TO COME snorkelling the clear blue waters on the great Barrier reef. Pic courtesy of tourism QlD.
a SniPPet of auStralian talent Bernard Salt Bernard Salt is one of Australia’s leading social commentators and cultural experts today. His presentations are witty and well researched.
Peter Switzer Peter Switzer has not just written about the best businesses and entrepreneurs in this country and around the world, he has actually put his knowledge to work to create an awardwinning, fast-growing business himself.
Catriona rowntree Catriona is a multitalented media figure, polished presenter and assured compere or MC and is an engaging and dynamic professional. Her mastery of communication enables her to adapt to all audiences in all industry sectors.
li Cunxin Li’s Cunxin (“Mao’s Last Dancer”) has a compelling story of courage, chance and determination. He leaves your delegates feeling humbly inspired and empowered.
It is often advisable to secure outside talent to facilitate or MC proceedings. Since the GFC we have found more companies and organisations looking for motivational speakers to deliver a positive message, inspire and uplift the audience. Personal stories work well in these situations – for example Li Cunxin, author of Mao’s Last Dancer, is in an inspirational speaker with an amazing story to tell. Humour, too, is a great leveller. It can be used as an ice-breaker and rapport builder. We often recommend an off-site Con neC Tor
dinner or event to break up a busy program, such as a cellar door or art gallery visit. If conferencing on the Gold Coast, a trip to one of the theme-park worlds is often fun. These functions encourage networking and chatter and create a positive attitude. Across the country, most cities and areas are well equipped to handle even the largest of conferences. Smaller events such as team-building and incentive trips can be well accommodated in almost any region of Australia – the choices are endless.
GLobAL SpeAkerS & enTerTAinerS pH: SYDneY 02 9744 5800 // QLD 07 5520 0145 Web: www.gLoBALSPeAkerS.CoM.Au
52 // travelling in australia magazine
Though earth holds many splendours,
liz elliS Liz is one of Australia’s most successful sportspeople ever. During her busy sports career she managed to achieve her degree in law. She is practical, inspiring and high energy with a very endearing personality, and audiences warm to her immediately.
why uSe a SPeakerS Bureau? 1. They specialise in talent – that’s ALL they do 2. Can take a brief and handle the time-consuming details 3. They give unbiased advice
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Call, email or visit surfair.com.au now to book this fantastic getaway. Ask us about our special deals for family apartments. Ph: (07) 5412 0100 E: surfair.reservations@wyn.com *Terms and and conditions Conditionsapply. apply. For For conferences conferences minimum minimum number number of of 20 20 delegates *Terms delegates may may be be required required depending dependingon onoverall overallconference conferencespend, spend, subject to subject to availability availability and and only only valid valid for for new new conferences conferencesbooked bookedby by30 30September September2010 2011and andheld heldprior priortoto24 24December December2010. 2011.Quote Quote “Travelling in Australia, Conference Offer” offer upon booking. For Stay 4, Pay 3, offer valid for one-bedroom apartments until 17 December “Travelling in Australia, Conference Offer” offer upon booking. For Stay 4, Pay 3, offer valid for one-bedroom apartments until 17 December 2010 (excludes 29 July to 2 August 2010 and 17 September to 3 October 2010). Subject to availability. Saving based on rate of $170 per night. 2011 (excludes school and public holidays). Subject to availability. Saving based no rate of $170 per night. Guests may stay three consecutive Guests must stay three consecutive nights to receive fourth consecutive night free. Quote “Travelling in Australia, Stay 4 Pay 3” offer upon nights to receive fourth consecutive night free. Quote “Travelling in Australia, Stay 4 Pay 3” offer upon booking. Wyndham Vacation Resorts booking. Wyndham Vacation Resorts Asia Pacific ACN 090 083 613. Asia Pacific ACN 090 083 613.
“ THE TREES HERE ARE AMONG THE TALLEST IN THE WORLD. NO WONDER WALKING AMONGST THEM IS SO INSPIRING.” Ling Shih Gang at The Valley of the Giants, one of the extraordinary highlights of Western Australia’s Great Southern Trip.
Plan your trip at westernaustralia.com
Perth Manjimup Pemberton Walpole
Kojonup Albany Denmark
THE GREAT SOUTHERN TRIP
M
y brother and I were born just ten months apart in Malaysia, so we’ve always been close. However, once we both started our own families, time together became harder and harder to arrange. So a holiday to rediscover our childhood happiness and enjoy some quality time together seemed like a great plan.
The question was where to go? We opted for somewhere we’d dreamt about but had never been bold enough to imagine we’d see for real, the southern coast of Western Australia.
We drove on to the stunning beauty of Greens Pool, near Denmark. Our guide showed us around, pointing out, of all things, elephant-shaped rocks down on the ocean’s edge. The colours of the water and the sky were magical that day – though it is not hard to believe it is always this way. We continued on to Albany and past the famous Dog Rock. (It seems the Aussies have a thing for rocks shaped like animals.) We then headed onto the Princess Royal Fortress. The viewpoint from there looks over the coastline and down below us were cannons marking the military history of the site. Day 3 // The following day gave us a chance to explore the coast. Near Albany in the Torndirrup National Park, the ocean has created a spectacular formation known as The Natural Bridge. We saw the waves rush in and out with tremendous power and, nearby, force their way through a crack in the granite called the Blowholes, noisily shooting air and spray high into the sky. Rarely do we get the time to take a walk together. So for me and for my brother, this was a rare moment to share a new experience and remind ourselves of many of the things we’d forgotten from our past. It was a chance to get closer.
Day 1 // Our trip began from a local hotel in Pemberton. As we headed along the coast, the mist lifted from the farm paddocks and revealed scenery we could never have expected.
In just a few days, we’d seen so much variety and enjoyed sights and sounds that could only be described as extraordinary − forests, coastlines and wildlife the likes of which we’d never seen before.
We stopped for some lunch and a truffle hunt. From something found beneath the earth, our next stop involved something that towered above, The Valley of the Giants.
Day 4 // With our short break coming to a close, we headed back inland towards Perth. The drive took us past much of the farmland and pasture we’d read about.
Here, enormously tall Tingle trees stretch up as far as the eye can see. Among the tree tops, there’s a walkway which allows you to meander through the forest canopy and feel part of it. The walkway is one of the highest, the first of its kind to be built anywhere in the world, and manages to weave its way around the trees without harming their environment. When you’re walking the track, you feel like you could almost touch the sky. In Kojonup, we experienced a little Aboriginal culture and learnt from our guide how to make damper and boil up a billy for some bush tea. We couldn’t have felt more Australian, though when we dunked our damper in our tea we did receive a few odd looks from the locals.
Day 2 // Our spirits lifted, we were up in time to see the sunrise at Walpole. There at Rest Point, the pelicans were being fed by a fisherman, who was sharing some of his catch with the greediest of them.
Main Image: The Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk (between Denmark and Walpole). Above from top: Natural Bridge, Albany; WA’s tiny marsupial, the Quokka; Billy Tea, Kodja Place; Greens Pool, near Denmark.
We arrived back in Perth, the sun setting on another brilliant day. Our trip was over, but our sense of adventure was very much ignited. We had never imagined you could do this much within driving distance of Perth. We had restored our childhood closeness, and created some new memories, too – enough to last us until the next time we can make it back to this amazing part of the world.
RogeR Allnutt tours the australian obsession with all things big Ask anyone where the Big Apple is and they will generally answer – “New York”. New York is synonymous with the Big Apple - although it is generally agreed that the name was first used by sports writer John J Fitzgerald, a horse-racing writer for the New York Morning Telegraph, in the 1920s. However, it is not only in the United States that we find the Big Apple, in fact there are six Big Apples in Australia. At Batlow and Yerrinbool in NSW, Bacchus Marsh in Victoria, Stanthorpe in Queensland, Donnybrook in WA and Spreyton in Tasmania there are structures in the shape of an apple on the side of road that alert the visitor to the fact that these are apple-growing areas in Australia. Americans are renowned for telling everyone who will listen that they have the biggest and best of everything. Perhaps Australia has an inferiority complex and needs to assert that we too have big things. Around the country, but mainly in rural areas, over 150 “big” things can be found. Most of these relate to agricultural products in the broadest sense, ranging from fruit and vegetables to fish, birds and animals, and even agricultural equipment. Although the Big Banana at Coffs Harbour is usually regarded as the first to be built, some sources suggest that the Big Scotsman erected in 1963 at Scotty’s Motel on the Main North Road in suburban Adelaide at Medindie was actually the first. However, the size and location of the Big Banana makes it one of the more memorable big things around the country. Built in
56 // travelling in australia magazine
wherever i may die,
1964, its 13m by 5m dimensions mean that it dominates the view as you drive along the Pacific Highway, drawing you into a tour of the banana plantation and the obligatory souvenir shop, naturally banana-themed. The majority of “big” things are designed to promote or bring attention to a particular product of the place or region. Fruitgrowing areas are well-represented with the Big Mango at Bowen in Queensland, the Big Pineapple at Woombye in the Sunshine Coast hinterland, Big Olive at Tailem Bend, Big Orange at Berri in the South Australian Riverland, Big Mandarin at Mundubbera (Qld), Big Cherry at Young (NSW), and the Big Potato at Robertson in the Southern Highlands of NSW. Australia’s fishing heritage is not forgotten, with the Big Barramundi at Normanton, Big Prawn at Ballina, Big Marlin at Cairns, Big Lobster at Kingston (SA) and the Big Murray Cod at Swan Hill. Birds include the Big Pelican beside the Noosa River on the Sunshine Coast, the Big Galah at Kimba on the highway across the Nullarbor and the Big Koala at Cowes on Phillip Island. There is a Big Penguin, but it is located at the town of Penguin on the north coast of Tasmania and hence refers to the town not the bird, and was erected in 1975 to celebrate the centenary of the proclamation of the town. Some of the big things reflect our history, with the best known being the big Ned Kelly at Glenrowan where the Kelly Gang were famous (or infamous). The big Captain Cook can be found at Cairns. The Western District of Victoria has been the centre of
wool production for two centuries and it is not surprising to find the big Wool Bales at Hamilton. In a similar vein the big Winch at Coober Pedy captures equipment used in the rugged opal-mining fields. One of the originals is the Big Merino at Goulburn. When the Hume Highway bypass was built around the city, the greyish-painted Big Merino was moved to a more visible position closer to the new highway; however, it is less visible from the road than the golden arches of a nearby McDonald’s. Australia is known for its alcohol consumption so a couple of drinks-related big things are in order. The big Rum Bottle is found at Bundaberg, while there is a big Wine Bottle at Pokolbin in the Hunter Valley. A new entry is the Big Church Block Wine Bottle erected at Wirra Wirra Winery in the McLaren Vale in 2010; the wire mesh covering the bottle is made entirely of corks. Tamworth is well-known for its annual Country Music Festival in January and the big Golden Guitar hovers over the tourist centre on the southern approaches to the town. Some of the big things are quite unusual. Tennis star Evonne Goolagong was born and raised in the small NSW country town of Barellan and her exploits are celebrated with the big Tennis Racquet. The Gippsland town of Churchill was named after Winston Churchill and the Big Cigar is a reminder of his most famous accoutrement. I attended the University of Tasmania many years ago and specialised in mathematics. I haven’t seen it, but there is said to be a big Slide Rule at the Faculty of Mathematics and
BIG AUSTRALIA ???? Big Banana, Coffs Harbour, nsW.
the Big Merino was built in 1985 as a monument to goulburn and the surrounding districts’, fine wool industry. standing 15.2 metres high, 18 metres long and originally weighing 97 tones he is an impressive life-like model of rambo, a stud ram from a local property, “Bullamallita”.
Physics; a bit passé I would think given how computers have taken over the world. The Big Things vary greatly in size. Among the largest is the big Rocking Horse at Gumeracha in the Adelaide Hills. Part of a wildlife park, children love clambering over and within the structure that is 18m high. The Big Pineapple at Woombye is 16m high, the Big Banana is 13m long, the Big Merino is 15m by 18m, while the Big Lobster measures 17m by 15m by 13m. At Normanton near the Gulf of Carpentaria there is a Big Crocodile, which is an exact replica of the largest recorded saltwater crocodile ever captured; it was shot on the banks of the Norman River in 1957. People become fascinated with the whole “Big” concept and even plan holiday trips around them, going to great lengths (and
distances) to see as many as they can. In 2007 Australia Post honoured Big Things in Australia by issuing a set of stamps featuring five of the best known; the Big Banana, Big Pineapple, Big Lobster, Big Merino and Big Golden Guitar. They also have been recognised overseas with the London production of the show
Priscilla, Queen of the Desert mentioning the Big Prawn, Big Banana, Big Pineapple and Big Merino. Maybe this desire for Big Things in Australia is a hangover to the days of the early explorers who included Great in the names of places like the Great Barrier Reef, Great Dividing Range and Great Australian Bight.
travelling in australia magazine // 57
i know to what brown country
CamperVanGra Murdoch tours tasmania
in a magnificent mobile home.
Open road
rear window sunset Happy campers.
green on green
russell Falls.
The well-read among you will no doubt remember my TIAM article a year ago, detailing a honeymoon visit to Uluru. What? You have trouble recalling? No sweat. I mention it only for context: each year, for our anniversary, wife Jen and myself vow to spend a week or so somewhere different in Australia, somewhere we’ve always intended to visit but have never quite gotten around to. Last year was the magical Red Centre, this year – at the opposite end of the colourwheel – Tasmania: the green apple tucked neatly beneath the mainland. A few brief connecting flights from our Gold Coast home and we touch down at Hobart Airport under late-summer blue skies. The crew at the campervan rental HQ are welcoming and thorough, running us through the features of our mighty (unexpectedly upgraded), incredibly wellappointed, six-berth campervan. At first we’re a little hesitant about being entrusted to such a significant piece of driving machinery, but we figure we’ll take things gently, so with hands tight on the wheel, we steer out of the rental complex and out on to the road. If you’re like us and never been campervanning before, but think you might 58 // travelling in australia magazine
enjoy it, I strongly recommend it to you, and also with my hand on my heart recommend Tassie as the perfect place for such a venture. This island is perfect for a campervan holiday. The roads are in great shape and uncrowded, the facilities at the national parks and campgrounds are well maintained and well-priced, there are free-camping options everywhere, and, (here’s where I might get a little emotional) the geography, the everchanging scenery, the sheer unspoilt beauty of the place is quite frankly astonishing. We start our trip with expectations of “doing the loop” of the island: that is, heading up the east coast from Hobart, cutting west across the top, back down the west coast, with several visits into the interior as well, but by the third day of our trip we know this plan is folly. No point madly racing around ticking spots off the list without pausing to absorb them. So pause and absorb is what we do. We spend a few days on the Freycinet Peninsula, free-camping at The Friendly Beaches and plugging in for a night at the Coles Bay van park. We walk and kayak and marvel and walk some more. Wineglass Bay – as travel mags will tell you – is voted in the top 10 most beautiful beaches in the world,
but for us it’s only one sublime part of the Freycinet whole. On dusk in the Coles Bay van park we’re serenaded by a virtuoso duo of elderly campers jamming on trumpet and piano: cool, mellow Duke Ellington Jazz tunes swirl and lift into the evening air like fragrance, with gentle applause echoing back from the scattered van and tent-sites. Everyone’s smiling. It’s an utterly gorgeous half-hour. We then mosey north, up to the Bay of Fires, wondering as we do if maybe we’ve been spoilt by Freycinet and if all that follows will disappoint. Our fears are put to rest by the time we park our van along the dune line of a beach so lovely I will not reveal its name. We spend a few days there, walking, exploring, reading, surfing, gazing at our campfire, eating fine meals produced on our three-burner stove and wanting for nothing. We meet some larger-than-life characters, including Roger, who’s been on the road for years in his home-built van, who becomes an instant friend. We take chairs and cups of tea over to his camp where he bakes us damper and tells us stories. We marvel at the ingenuity of Alan, another roaming soul, and the extraordinary inventions that make
east coast tasmania ????
-Diemen’sLand* great lake
Freycinet paddling
ninety metres of tree.
newfound friends.
Motel on wheels!
his caravanning existence almost laughably sustainable and comfortable. Alan takes a bite of his damper and a swig from his tea and asks us, “How does it feel to have died and gone to Heaven?” We laugh and say it feels pretty good. The next day, Jen and I are sitting next to our fire and thinking maybe we actually HAVE gone to Heaven. I’m speculating that – unbeknown to us – we’d somehow recently shuffled off this mortal coil. I’ve no sooner finished this sentence when a longforgotten sound of childhood drifts over the remote landscape: it’s the mechanised, sweetly amplified chimes of “Greensleeves”, the siren’s call of a good old-fashioned icecream van bumping its way down the sandy track! It’s the most surreal moment of the trip. Myself and Jen quickly agree we are now undoubtedly in paradise, and dive into the van to rummage for money for ice-cream. Choc tops, with nuts. Heaven indeed. Next, we’re out on the road and almost out of time: we head as far north as the superbly named town of Penguin before turning west to return down the middle of the island, through the highlands to Hobart. Looking
another great van.
for a place to spend the night within range of a midday flight home next day, we settle on the Mt Field National Park. We get in as the afternoon shadows lengthen, but the fella at the visitor’s centre reckons we can still make the walk through the Tall Trees and the Lady Barron and Russell falls. The next two hours will stay with us for a long time, walking humbled and reverential beneath Australia’s tallest trees, some nudging 90 metres and 400 years old. Only the 110metre Redwoods in California are higher. Perhaps this will be my abiding memory of a week in Tasmania: spreading my arms, closing my eyes and resting my head on the impossibly broad, mossy base of a tree that was alive and well when Dutchman Abel Tasman first sighted the Tasmanian coast back in 1642. I’m not much of a soft touch, but the thought of it was profoundly moving. Almost to tears, in fact. Maybe that’ll be my abiding memory of Tassie, but it won’t be the only one: “We’re coming back, and next time, we’re coming for a month,” Jen reckons, and I’m not about to disagree.
a few tassie campervanning notes. • We found a good rhythm in free-camping “off the grid” for a few days, then spending a night in a caravan park (juicing the batteries, doing laundry, indulging in hot showers, etc), then back to freecamping. Of the nine days we spent on the road, four nights were spent in caravan parks. • Some campervans are high! The only dramas we had involved low-lying branches and misjudgements about clearance. • Say G’day to your fellow campers and road travellers. You’re guaranteed to be inspired and entertained. • Research the seasons. Tassie can get pretty cold! • Beware driving at night, dawn and dusk, lots of critters cross the road ’round these parts. • When in doubt, fill the tank! • Honestly, in a week we only saw a tiny amount of what Tassie has to offer. But we’re hooked.
Ah... that’s a bit of a pun in the title there. Tasmania was originally (in European settlement terms anyway) christened Van Diemen’s Land before a name change in 1856.
travelling in australia magazine // 59
my homing thoughts will fly.
business listings
a r w i Oce n a n t o O u t b a c k A d v e n t ures
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this way out
INFLIGHT READING
TIAM’s recommended reading for your next long haul
australIa’s great rIver landscape Murray river & Mallee
South Australian local Shane Strudwick has been photographing the Murray River and Mallee region for over six years to create this photographic masterpiece showcasing the undiscovered beauty of the region. The stunning and sometimes quirky images show landscapes and communities that have unparalleled diversity, strength and beauty. The Murray River and Mallee region is one of Australia’s great national iconic and ancient landscapes. Full of environmental wonders, natural beauty, diverse communities and proud heritage, this is a 65-million-year-old story that holds much of Australia’s soul and identity. Perfect for lovers of quality photography, history and Australian stories, this book holds wide appeal for locals and international visitors. PhotograPhy & text by shane strudwiCK Published by: MuRRAy RiveR TouRisM PTy lTd eMAil: info@murrayriver.com.au isbn: 978 0 9808029 0 0 RRP: $69.95
the dIstant hours MuM had a KIngswood tales froM the lIfe and MInd of rosso
Kate Morton – best-selling australian author
When Tim “Rosso” Ross left his award-winning career on breakfast radio in 2009 everyone wondered what he would do next. The answer is this hilarious book filled with everything from warm childhood stories of billycarts and milk bars to teenage stories of angst, girls and bad hair. There are adult stories of the moment his stand-up comedy career took off, living the rock ’n’ roll dream and his argument with Cameron Diaz on the definition of a “chick flick”. In between these anecdotes for life there are classic rants and random ideas fresh from the mind of one of Australia’s favourite comedians. It’s part memoir, part brain dump. A refreshing read, wholly amusing for all ages.
A tale of intrigue, romance and imagination, The Distant Hours tells the story of Edie and the arrival of a mysterious letter that leads her to suspect that her mother’s emotional distance masks an old secret. Evacuated from London as a 13-year-old girl, Edie’s mother was taken to live at Millderhurst Castle with the mysterious Blythe family. Within the grand castle a new world opens up for Edie’s mother filled with the joys of books and fantasy and writing, but also, ultimately, the dangers. Fifty years later, Edie too is drawn to the castle chasing the answers to her mother’s riddle. Inside the decaying castle, Edie begins to unravel her mother’s past and learns more than she ever expected. Best-selling author Kate Morton excels in this beautifully written story. The perfect gift for lovers of a classic, compelling tale.
Published by: Allen & unwin isbn: 978 1 74237 507 6 RRP: $29.99
Published by: Allen & unwin isbn: 978 1 74237 183 2 RRP: $39.99
tiM ross
Is that thIng dIesel? Paul Carter
One man, one bike and a lap around Australia on used cooking oil. Told in his inimitable style, Paul Carter details his adventures during his ride around Australia on a rickety, underpowered experimental bike that was created on a shoestring budget by students. This bone-breaking adventure is peppered with quirky characters, insane situations and uncomfortable breakdowns as Paul and a few old mates make their way from Adelaide to Perth, the long way round. A laugh-out-loud story for the young at heart, this is Paul Carter at his best. Published by: Allen & unwin isbn: 978 1 74175 702 6 RRP: $24.99
travelling in australia magazine // 61
{The end}.
62 // travelling in australia magazine
this way out
advertiser’s index
PRODUCTS
araJilla // 32 Desert Cave HOtel // 45 gOvernOrs lODge resOrt // 42 HOWarD ParK Wines // 29 laDY elliOt islanD // 41 ParaDise BaY resOrt // 39 sePPeltsFielD // 14 sHeratOn Mirage // 15 tangalOOMa // 35 tOurisM nsW // 20, 21 tOurisM QlD // 1, 8 tOurisM sa // 16, 17 tOurisM Wa // 54, 55 WYnDHaM resOrts // 53
DESTINATIONS neW sOutH Wales // 18, 20, 21, 22, 24, 30, 32 nOrFOlK islanD // 30, 42, 43 QueenslanD // COVER, IFC, 1, 8, 9, 15, 22, 27, 30, 35, 39, 41, 53 sOutH australia // 14, 16, 17, 22, 25, 30, 44, 45 tasMania // 22, 28, 30, 60, 61 viCtOria // 22, 30 Western australia // 22, 26, 30, 54, 55
travelling in australia magazine // 63
{see you next issue}
Pic: tourism QlD
parting shot One last image of the turtle hatchlings scurrying to the ocean. Loggerhead turtle hatchlings make their way to the sea just minutes after hatching. The babies use a small egg tooth on their nose and sharp claws on their front flippers to break the shell. All turtles in the clutch hatch together. They push up from the bottom of the nest and do a relay, as the leaders get tired, to reach the surface. When the loggerhead hatchlings emerge, they swarm out of the nest and quickly scurry down the beach to the ocean. They generally hatch at night — between sunset and sunrise. Pic courtesy of Darren Jew, Tourism QLD.
64 // travelling in australia magazine
lasting impressions
next issue EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN A new look at classic hotels FRINGE DWELLING Sleeping in the wilderness FROm pENAL cOLONY TO uLTImATE EScApE Norfolk Island, Port Arthur and Sydney Rocks INDIGENOuS ImpAcT Tales & tours with our oldest inhabitants
travelling in australia magazine // 65