Kitchen Garden September 2018 by Mortons Media Group Ltd

WWW.KITCHENGARDEN.CO.UK | SEPTEMBER 2018

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3 PACKETS OF FREE SEEDS + CLAIM 40 FREE* WINTER VEG PLANTS

FANTASTIC FEASTS FORAGE FOR FUNGI & THE HIDDEN FOOD AMONG YOUR FLOWERS

Discover the best green manures Keep your soil ﬁghting ﬁt

EXTEND THE SEASON BY MAKING A COLDFRAME

 HELP WILDLIFE FOR BETTER HARVESTS   WATERCRESS FROM THE PATIO  SEED SAVING TIPS 

EDITOR’S LETTER

WELCOME

September is traditionally a time for harvesting summer crops of fruit and vegetables and preserving any gluts so we can enjoy them through the long winter. However, there is still plenty we can do to stretch the growing season to ensure an early and productive start next year. A cold frame is helpful to extend the growing season and in this issue Joyce Russell shows you how to make one. Soil is our most precious commodity in the garden and after a year of hard work it deserves a bit of TLC. So this month we have two features, starting on pages 42 and 73, dedicated to helping you keep your soil fighting fit. There is plenty of info on crops, too; expert grower Rob Smith has some great top tips on growing broccoli and calabrese, while this month our resident fruit expert David Patch turns his attention to figs. Finally don’t forget to enter our great fun Passionate Plotter and Wonky Veg competitions for the chance to win some super prizes!

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 3

CONTENTS

EXPERT ADVICE TO HELP YOU GROW GREAT FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

10 ✪ ON THE COVER

18 YOU

@GrowWithKG

YOUR PLOT

6 ON THE VEG PATCH

KitchenGardenUK KitchenGardenMag @GrowWithKG /kitchengardenmagazine FOR OUR CONTACT DETAILS TURN TO PAGE 15

Gardening expert Martin Fish this month is lifting onions and storing, ripening outdoor tomatoes, preserving herbs, planting strawberries and ﬁnishing summer pruning apples

10 IN THE GREENHOUSE

KG regular Joyce Russell is sowing mizuna, rocket, mustard and land cress and planting onion sets

12 WHAT’S NEW?

The latest news, comment and advice from the world of kitchen gardening

14 YOUR LETTERS AND TIPS

Learn what other KG readers have been up to and pick up some great ﬁrst-hand advice

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE...

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ON PAGE 24 HAVING TROUBLE FINDING A COPY OF THIS MAGAZINE? Just Ask your local newsagent to reserve you a copy each month

4 | SEPTEMBER 2018

20 KG PROBLEM SOLVER

This month our experts turn their attention to apples, rhubarb, tomatoes and pears

97 DIARY DATES

See what’s on in your neck of the woods and make a note to book yourself on to a course or visit a great event

102 LAST WORD

Britain’s youngest Michelin starred chef Tommy Banks chats to KG about his love of seasonal produce and growing crops in the dark!

106 NEXT MONTH

Some of the highlights to be found in your October issue www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2018

36 Scan this, and we’ll tell you!

Cookery expert Anna Pettigrew brings us some delicious recipes using peaches, dill and fennel

Pg 98

GET GROWING 16 ON THE PLOT WITH THE THREE MUDKETEERS

This month the intrepid trio are harvesting courgettes, snow peas and beetroot

17 GNOME GROWN

Gardening tips and projects for children

18 FLOWERS FOR YOUR PATCH ✪

The spotlight this month is a hardy annual you can sow now – cornﬂowers

22 GROWING ONLINE

Our pick of the best gardening social media and websites

26 PLANNING AN EDIMENTAL GARDEN ✪

Wendy Pillar has created a garden ﬁlled with plants that are either edible or have another use

32 TOP OF THE BROCS ✪

Rob Smith looks at growing sprouting broccoli and calabrese

36 MUSHROOM PICKING WITHOUT THE MYSTERY ✪

Fungi foraging expert Geoff Dann offers some advice on edible fungi

40 AN UPWARDLY MOBILE MUNCH

Sally Cunningham recommends growing chunky Malabar spinach

42 CARING FOR YOUR SOIL ✪ Sue Stickland offers her tips on keeping soil in good condition so your crops beneﬁt www.kitchengarden.co.uk

48 GO WILD ON THE PLOT ✪

Emma Rawlings looks at encouraging wildlife on to the plot and their beneﬁts

52 PASSIONATE PLOTTER ✪

We launch our Passionate Plotter competition 2018. Send in your photos to win some great prizes for your veg garden

57 DRESSED FOR SUCCESS

You’ve grown lots of salad crops – now Anna Pettigrew suggests some salad dressing recipes to take them to another level

61 SOS: SAVE OUR SEEDS ✪

98 WHAT TO BUY

Saving your own seed can save you money and beneﬁt your growing, as Benedict Vanheems explains

81 INSTANT SAVERS

66 MEET THE BLOGGERS

84 GARDEN STORE

68 FIGURATIVELY SPEAKING ✪

86 MAKE A COLD FRAME ✪

73 GROWING GREEN ✪

90 GREAT READER OFFERS

78 THE ART OF ASSEMBLING

92 GREAT GIVEAWAYS WORTH OVER £1200 ✪

82 VEG AT A GLANCE – WATERCRESS ✪

94 TRIED AND TESTED –

This month we meet social media star Louise Houghton, who has a plot in Wales

Fruit expert David Patch turns his attention to ﬁgs

A natural way to improve the condition of your soil is to grow green manures, as Julie Moore explains

Chef Jessica Elliott Dennison makes simple dishes from seasonal produce

KG’s Steve Ott takes a look at a watercress variety that doesn’t need a river

This month make some great savings on dehydrators, plant supports, seeds and sundries

More great new products and services to help to boost your harvests

Practical plotter Joyce Russell shows you how to make a cold frame

Claim your free* winter greens collection worth £13.90 (*Just pay p&p)

This month you could win London Homebuilding & Renovating Show tickets and a bundle of great goodies from Fiskars

This month the KG team puts garden trugs to the test SEPTEMBER 2018 | 5

GET GROWING

TASKS FOR YOUR VEGETABLE PATCH IN SEPTEMBER BY MARTIN FISH PICK APPLES

The ﬁrst apples of the season are ripening now and need to be picked as soon as the fruits leave the trees when given a gentle twist. The exact time of ripening varies on location and the fruits on the sunny side of the tree ripen ﬁrst.

PREPARE SOIL

Before you plant spring cabbage plants, prepare the ground by forking it over lightly and tread the area to ﬁrm the soil. Sprinkle a light dressing of general fertiliser such as Growmore or pelleted poultry manure to give the plants a good start.

DRY ‘BORLOTTI’ BEANS

If you intend to pick and dry beans such as Borlotti for winter use, pick the beans when they are fully formed and the pods are dry. Do this on a ﬁne day and pop open the pods before laying them in a tray to carry on drying.

PRESERVE HERBS

Finish picking the fresh, new shoots and leaves off herbs before the foliage starts to dry out and die back in autumn. Many such as thyme, bay, mint and marjoram can be tied into small, loose bunches and dried, or frozen in ice cubes for winter use.

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JOBS FOR THE MONTH XXX

LIFT & STORE ONIONS STEP 1: Main crop onions should be ready for harvesting this month when the bulbs have naturally started to ripen and the tops bend over. If the onions still look green you can stop them growing and encourage ripening by gently lifting the bulbs with a garden fork. Breaking the roots prevents the bulbs drinking in more water and it helps them to dry out ready for lifting and storing.

STEP 2: Once the tops of the onions have turned brown and the skins are ripening, lift the bulbs and carry on ripening them in trays or wire racks where there is good air circulation. Keep checking the onions and turning them to develop a brown papery skin. This can be done outside if the weather is dry and fine, but in wet conditions bring the onions undercover to keep them dry.

STEP 3: Once the foliage has totally dried out and the skins have evenly ripened, the onions can be stored for winter use. This can be done by keeping them in trays or by bagging them in nets. Alternatively, you can tie them to create an onion rope by twisting the old leaves through a loop of string. They can then be hung in a dry, cool, but frost-free place until needed.

SOW NOW

RIPEN OUTDOOR TOMATOES Getting outdoor tomatoes to ripen can be a problem some years, especially if we get a cool spell of weather. Ideally, we want the fruits to start changing colour while the temperatures are still fairly warm and certainly before the weather turns cool and damp. To help the fruits ripen, remove foliage that has started to turn yellow as this will increase the air flow around the fruit. If growing in pots, stand them in a warm, sheltered position where they will get maximum sunlight. Keep the compost just moist and feed with a high potash fertiliser. On cool nights, cover with fleece to trap warm air around the fruits. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

GOLDEN BEETROOT

There are many different types of beetroot that are ideal for growing in the garden and by sowing the seeds little and often from spring, you can have a succession of freshly pulled tender roots all summer and into autumn. Roots can be eaten at

any stage, although small, young roots tend to be the sweetest. I ďŹ nd that the golden types such as 'Golden Globe' are best pulled before they get too large and woody and, as a guide, I harvest them when about the size of a tennis ball. These will be eaten fresh or used in pickles and chutneys where they impart their sweet, delicate ďŹ&#x201A;avour.

Give runner beans a boost to keep them growing and cropping for a few more weeks, by soaking the soil around their roots with liquid fertiliser. Combined with regular picking, it will encourage the last beans of the season.

Spinach, lettuce, salad leaves, kale (for winter leaves), radish, salad onions, chard, spring cabbage, corn salad, chicory, turnip.

PLANT NOW

Over-wintering onions, spring cabbage, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, strawberries.

HARVEST

Runner beans, dwarf beans, potatoes, squash, cabbage, calabrese, lettuce, radish, spring onions, chard, carrots, beetroot, courgettes, turnips, spinach, herbs, autumn raspberries, apples, plums, tomatoes. SEPTEMBER 2018 | 7

GET GROWING

PICK YOUR R PLUMS

HARVEST BLACKBERRIES

■ Help squashes and pumpkins to ripen by lifting them off the ground slightly on a stone or up-turned seed tray. This increases air ﬂow around the fruits and keeps the base dry.

Keep picking sweet, juicy blackberries little and often as they ripen on the plants. This helps the smaller fruits to develop and ripen over the coming weeks to extend the fruiting season. Although they are lovely eaten fresh, they also freeze very well by placing them on a tray in the freezer. Once frozen they can be bagged up and used over the winter in fruit pies and puddings.

Fresh, home-grown plumss picked from the tree when fully ripe are a real treat at this time of the year. Plums on the same tree don’t all ripen at the same time, so you need to check the fruits on a regular basis and pick when ripe, before the birds peck them or wasps damage them. The fruits on the sunny side of the tree are often the first to be picked.

FINISH SUMMER APPLE PRUNING Fruit trees such as apples and pears are pruned through the summer when trained as decorative cordons, step-overs or espaliers, to maintain the formal shape and to create short sideshoots known as spurs. It’s on the short spurs that flowers and fruits develop the following year. Some tree forms are also summer pruned to reduce long, vigorous growth and to encourage a spur system of branches. Pruning is ■ Plant Chinese cabbage out in the garden and keep it well watered. It grows quickly and should develop crispy heads for harvesting in late September.

■ Once you have picked the last of the sweetcorn, the old plants can be removed, chopped up or passed through a shredder, before adding to the compost heap.

■ As the tops of main crop potatoes naturally start to die down or if blight is around, cut down the haulms to soil level and get rid of them. The potatoes can then be left in the soil for a few more weeks until you are ready to lift.

■ Old fruited stems on blackcurrants can be pruned out to open up the bush and allow the new growth to ripen.

8 | SEPTEMBER 2018

normally done in late summer, but if you’ve not done it yet, there is still time. Basically, all you do is cut back this year’s new growth to around 4cm (1½in), just above a bud. Done now, the tree won’t make any new growth over autumn and it will hold its shape until spring growth starts. Through the autumn and winter, fat fruit buds will develop on the short spurs that will blossom and fruit next year.

PLANT STRAWBERRIES Although the fruiting season for strawberries is over, September is an important time in the strawberry calendar. Early autumn is the traditional time to plant new plants that have been raised from runners earlier in the summer. The advantage of planting now is that the young plants will be able to make a good root system over the autumn while the soil is still warm. This results in much stronger plants next

spring that will get off to a good start and produce plenty of fruit. Strawberry plants are very adaptable, but regardless of whether you are planting out in the open ground or growing in containers, the sooner you can get them planted and established, the better. Strawberries grow very well in pots to stand outside on a patio or paved area. Plastic or terracotta can be used and you can use

either simple pots or special strawberry pots that have side planting holes. Because the plants are going to be in the container for two or maybe three seasons, use a good compost. I like to mix multipurpose compost and John Innes compost half and half, which gives a good structured compost with good water and nutrient holding capacity. Hanging baskets can also be used and this is a great way to grow them as it protects the fruits from slugs and snails! Simple plastic pots are ideal, or you could use a more decorative basket. In a 25-30cm (10-12in) basket you need three plants which will fill out and produce fruits that hang over the sides of the basket. Again, use a good compost mix to keep the plants healthy and growing. Planting in rows or on a grid system in the garden is the traditional method of growing and it works well if you have room. Choose a sunny position and prepare the ground by working in well-rotted organic matter to improve the soil. Planting distances vary, depending on space available, but ideally the minimum spacing should be 30cm (12in) or slightly wider if possible. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

WITH JOYCE RUSSELL Pictures by Ben Russell

A NEW GREENHOUSE: SHAPE & HEIGHT

■ Reduce watering a little and aim for a less humid atmosphere ■ Support stems and pick peppers as soon as they reach a good colour ■ Watch out for moulds and blight: remove affected leaves as soon as you spot them

10 | SEPTEMBER 2018

■ Plant out and make sowings for the winter ■ Remove lower tomato leaves ■ Close doors and windows on cold nights ■ Remove crops that have ﬁnished and get new ones into the space ■ Keep harvesting and use the glut well!

Glass greenhouses tend to have pitched roofs and polytunnels tend to have curved ones, but there are exceptions. Some plastic covers fit over pitched frames and domes are common enough with both plastic or glass sections. Take a look at options before choosing what to put up. Some structures look nicer than others and some fit best in a difficult corner of the garden, but the main issue with shape is how easy it is to grow and work inside the structure. Make sure there is plenty of height and plenty of room for air to move. A low structure can become oppressive in a hot summer and sloping sides may mean that raised beds or tall plants are only an option in the middle section. Straight sides can allow for optimum use of space.

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JOBS THIS MONTH

WINTER/SPRING SOWINGS Plant out any seedlings raised in pots as soon as space is free. Growth is restricted if small plants are root-bound and they will not reach their full potential if they are crowded. Keep some compost around roots and use light ﬂeece, or mesh, to provide shade when planting in hot weather. Water often, so young plants don’t wilt. Sow mizuna, rocket, mustard greens, purslane, turnips, spring onions, land cress, corn salad, sorrel, etc, in rows where they will grow. Sow spring cabbage, winter lettuce, Florence fennel, spinach beet, chard, etc, in pots and plant out at the right spacing when large enough.

■ Cucumber plants may look a bit tatty by the end of the month and fruit may be small and mis-shapen. Leave plants in place if you have space and enjoy the last fruits until they stop p cropping. pp g

Try sowing a row of early carrots now if you can protect emerging seedlings from slugs.

GREENHOUSE GADGETS: A WORKBENCH A bench is invaluable for pricking out and potting on. You can store tools, labels and more, so you know exactly where they are when you need them. Make your own bench and recycle scrap timber, or buy one in – there are plenty available in all shapes and sizes. A small bench can be moved outside during the summer months when every bit of space is needed for growing. Put it by the door so you can reach what is needed. Large wiretopped benches are light and can also be moved outside if space is an issue. Use them as a growing space for raising slug-andsnail-free plants to go in the greenhouse in the autumn.

TOMATO FEAST September is a month of glut for tomato plants. Pick fruits as soon as they ripen and freeze the ones that you can’t use straight away – they make great sauces, soups and chutneys, when garden tasks are less pressing. Keep soil damp, not wet, and reduce feeding at this point. The aim is to ripen fruits steadily over the next couple of months. Remove leaves from the lower half of the stem to allow light and air to reach ripening trusses.

CLIMBING BEANS

■ Try to get the balance between ripening all bunches of grapes and avoiding the ravages of grey mould. The secret is to inspect the crop daily. Remove any fruit and leaves at the ﬁrst signs of infection. Semi-ripe fruit can be mixed with ripe grapes in wines and juices. ■ Don’t try to pack too many plants into the greenhouse. The focus should be towards healthy winter and spring crops at this point, so remove any plant that has done its job. Stick to recommended spacing for new planting. ■ Make up some tubs of liquid feed, or buy in an extra bottle of a seaweed-based one. This comes in useful in the early months of next year when over-wintered crops need a boost of nutrients. ■ Put a row of autumn planting onion sets in the greenhouse now. These grow well and produce great greens and small onions for use in early spring.

Runner beans crop well outdoors, but you can get a late and early crop by growing a few undercover. Plants can TEMPERATURES become perennial in a protected space: leave roots in the ground and watch them grow green shoots in September can bring better weather early spring. than August in some years, although you Climbing French beans should still be cropping can’t rely on it. With luck we will get a well. Watch out for moulds and mildews in warm sunny autumn, but it is worth working damp weather and remove affected leaves before out what strategies to use if we don’t. the problem spreads. Pick beans as soon as they Keep doors and windows open on are big enough to use and don’t leave any on any hot days and be prepared to shut the plant to swell large beans. Plants will stop everything down if we get an extra-early cropping as soon as they produce ripe seeds. night frost. Any cold weather will be Make a note of varieties that cropped well in short lived; look after vulnerable your greenhouse and buy the same next year. It’s plants and they can still keep worth trying new things, but any success deserves to cropping for weeks. be repeated. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 11

YOU

YOUR PLOT

WHAT’S NEW?

ALL THE LATEST NEWS, PRODUCTS & FACTS FROM THE WORLD OF KITCHEN GARDENING

SHROPSHIRE GIRL WINS TOP PRIZE The winner of the RHS Young School Gardener of the Year competition for 2018 is 15-year-old Ellie Micklewright, of Newport Girls’ High School Academy Trust in Shropshire. Skilled gardener Ellie started her school’s gardening club from scratch, galvanising an eager

army of around 40 students and staff to transform the grounds of the school. As well as researching, planning and designing the garden, Ellie secured funding from local businesses to help create wildlife habitats, a sensory zone and an orchard.

The RHS School Gardener of the Year competition forms part of the RHS Campaign for School Gardening, which aims to get young people gardening by providing free resources and advice. For more information visit: www.rhs.org.uk/ schoolgardening

HEATWAVE SPARKS GARDEN WORKOUTS A survey of 1,331 adults carried out by garden and conservatory furniture retailer Alfresia.co.uk revealed that 21% of Brits have re-organised their garden to allow them to take their regular ﬁtness regimes outside. While football is the top form of exercise for Brits, 62% are using the space to carry out strength-building activities, such as weights and mat work. What’s more, 45% are embracing alfresco pilates or yoga, 27% are doing outdoor high-intensity interval training (HIIT) classes and 18% are even using their outdoor space to carry out circuit training sessions. Those living in Leeds were most likely to enjoy garden workouts (52%), followed by those living in Southampton (49%).

Picture: RHS Mark Waugh

EASTON AUTUMN MARKET Easton Walled Gardens in Grantham, Lincolnshire, will be holding its autumn country market on Sunday, September 2. This will showcase the region’s best artisan crafts, rural food and demonstrations (including beekeeping and botanical painting) with more than 60 stalls. The gardens will also be open for visitors to explore. Ursula Cholmeley, gardening director at Easton Walled Gardens, said: “Lincolnshire has so much to offer and it is important for all of us here at Easton to showcase the very best. We

Scientists from the University of Leeds and Lancaster University are currently studying a compound found in green tea that may reduce atherosclerosis. This is when fatty material builds up inside the arteries, restricting blood ﬂow.

have run this market for 13 years; it is always a lovely day out with lots to see in the gardens and among the stalls. Crafts, beautiful countryside and cake are a winning

combination and we enjoy the day nearly as much as our visitors.” Adults £7.50, children £3.50. For more information visit www.visiteaston.co.uk

DO YOU HAVE SOME HOT STORIES FOR OUR NEWS PAGES? SEND THEM TO TFLANAGAN@MORTONS.CO.UK 12 | SEPTEMBER 2018

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WHAT’S NEW?

SLUG DETERRENTS ON TRIAL Egg shells, copper tape and other home remedies traditionally used by gardeners to deter slugs and snails will be put to the test in the ﬁrst scientiﬁc experiment of its kind by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). Researchers at the charity will sow lettuce – a gastropod favourite – in a series of pots and raised beds, which will be treated with alternate control methods. At the end of every week the leaves of each lettuce will be examined using a leaf area meter that will calculate the proportional damage and at the end of the experiment all of the lettuces will be harvested and

weighed. Those with the least damage and greatest crop yield will have beneﬁted from the best deterrent. The home remedies set to be tested by the RHS are: copper tape (with serrated edge), sharp horticultural grit, pine bark mulch, wool pellets, egg shells and some will receive no treatment. For more information about slugs and snails in UK gardens visit www.rhs.org.uk

Around 90% of British blackcurrants are used to produce Ribena. Now a team from Leeds University has found a use for the discarded skins: hair dye! This and a natural purple shampoo have been produced commercially under the brand name Dr Craft and are available online at drcraft.co.uk

HEAD FOR HARROGATE!

This year’s Autumn Harrogate Flower Show takes place September 14-16 at the Great Yorkshire Showground. The autumn show features the annual giant vegetable competition, the highlight of which is the National Heavy Onion Championship, sponsored by Kitchen Garden magazine. The world record weigh-in for giant onions will take place at noon on Friday, September 15. Other highlights include Shed Talk, where experts will be on hand to answer your most pressing gardening questions; the FEAST! food theatre and the GROW! garden theatre, with talks and demonstrations; spectacular ﬂoral displays; art and crafts; music and plenty of opportunities for garden shopping. For more information and to take advantage of online ticket discounts, go to www.ﬂowershow.org.uk

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NEW WALLED GARDEN FOR NORTHERN IRELAND CASTLE Plans are afoot for a new five-acre walled garden for Hillsborough Castle, Northern Ireland. This will occupy the same spot as a historic Georgian kitchen garden that once catered for residents of the castle. Like its predecessor, the new garden will be a living, working, productive garden, due to be completed when the

transformed castle fully reopens in spring next year. Set within 100 acres of majestic grounds, the walled garden will take inspiration from the historic garden that used to produce fruit, vegetables and flowers. A variety of traditional fruits and vegetables will be cultivated in two quadrants of the walled garden – from

raspberries, blackberries and rhubarb to potatoes – offset by a diverse range of cut flowers creating an abundance of colour. Meanwhile, apple and pear orchards will landscape the remaining two quadrants, sown by wildflower and meadowland, aiming to offer a peaceful place of reflection and sanctuary.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 13

YOU

YOUR PLOT

THE VEGETABLE FAIRY

The soil in my garden is not suitable for growing vegetables, but I have still managed to grow my favourites – runner beans. I grow them in large tubs and had such a successful crop last year, I am doing the same this year – proof that you can still grow vegetables even if your garden soil is unsuitable. I didn’t even buy the seeds, I just dried a load of the seeds from last year’s crop. Free food that’s healthy too. Any spare beans I have, which is usually a lot, I give them to my neighbours. They call me the vegetable fairy, lol. I think this is a great tip for gardeners like myself who have to stick to pots! Angharad Meyrick, Llanelli TONY SAYS: Are you the one that leaves beans under people’s pillows?

HAVE YOUR SAY CONTACT US WITH YOUR LETTERS AND TIPS: TFLANAGAN@MORTONS.CO.UK

OLDEST ALLOTMENTS

MADE TO MEASURE This is an easy-to-make measure for spacing seeds and plants. Take a 5ft or 6ft bamboo cane (I’m old fashioned and use feet and inches, but it also applies to metric) and mark off in six-inch intervals. Using a black marker pen, make rings round the cane at 1ft intervals, then, using a different colour pen, make rings

round the cane at the six-inch intervals in between. It is a very simple and efﬁcient way of measuring the usual seed/plant intervals, and threeinch and nine-inch distances are quite easy to judge too. If stability is required, cut two pieces of thick wire, bend into a ‘U’ shape and push into the ground over each end of the cane. John Laycock, Yorkshire

Send us your tips and pictures and if your letter is published you will get a £10 Dobies voucher. If you are lucky enough to have yours chosen as our Star Letter you will get a £25 voucher. Your voucher will be sent out with a Dobies catalogue and you can choose to spend your winnings on a fabulous range of seeds,

14 | SEPTEMBER 2018

It has been brought to our attention that in the ‘What’s New’ section of the January edition of Kitchen Garden, you mentioned the oldest UK allotments site. Great Somerford may have a 200-year heritage, but in Stafford ours dates back a bit further. Coton Fields was confirmed as the property of the Burgesses of Stafford in the 1206 Charter of King John. Indeed, it probably dates from well before that event. The Freemen’s Lands, which originally ran to some 100 acres, much of it down to allotments, has now been reduced to the not inconsiderable 22-acre site that is administered by the Stafford Freemen’s Allotments Trust. We have about 150 plots currently tenanted or available. Each plot is considerably larger than most sites, so the majority of our gardeners find half a plot quite enough to manage. Originally the plots were big enough for freemen of the borough to provide for their families. While we concentrate on running a modern site, we are very conscious of our 800-plus years of history and the need to keep it for future generations. John Edwards, Scribe to the Trust, Stafford

young plants and gardening sundries. You can get hold of a copy of the catalogue now by phoning 0844 701 7625 or go online to www.dobies.co.uk You can reach us by letter, email or via our Facebook page: FACEBOOK.COM/ KITCHENGARDENMAG

Email your letters to tﬂanagan@mortons. co.uk or post to Letters, Kitchen Garden, Mortons Media Group, Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR

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YOUR VIEWS

SAY IT WITH FLOWERS

“You never bring me flowers,” I berated my husband Jeff recently. So he went out to the garden and picked…a bunch of CAULIFLOWERS! Not quite what I had in mind. Carole Casan, Devon TONY SAYS: Pure genius! Might use that one myself, Carole.

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Several years ago, when I took over my allotment, I found a small galvanised tank hidden under the brambles that covered a large part of the plot. It was too small to use as a water butt, so I used it to try an experiment to get rid of the roots of pernicious weeds like nettles, dandelions, docks, bindweed etc., all of which were present on the plot. The plan was simple: put some rainwater in the tank, and throw the roots in! It has proved very effective, all the roots have been destroyed. At the end of the winter, when the compost bin is empty, I pour the contents of the tank into the bin and start again. Any container will do the job – it’s not the size that matters, merely the fact that the roots are submerged for a period of time. Keith Hands, Coventry

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Monthly by Mortons Media Group Ltd, Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR. Tel 01507 523456, Fax 01507 529301 THE TALKING KG

CARROT CONUNDRUM MONIKA: Why is it that when I BUY small carrots (with or without green top growth), they always stay crisp and hard for a few days, but when I harvest our own in an evening, by the next day they are limp and soft in spite of being stored in the cool outside, in a plastic bag? JOHNBOY: Commercially grown carrots pulled with the foliage on go into a chiller and what you call the cool outside is not cool enough. If you were to put them in the salad drawer in your fridge you may get more success. PAWTY: I just cooked with some carrots from the allotment which I put in the fridge a couple of weeks ago – still really crunchy and tasty. They were washed, and put in a sealed bag in the veg drawer in the fridge. The trick I ﬁnd (which I also use for herbs, beans, lettuce... and more) is to put a piece of kitchen paper in the bag. Great trick I learnt a few years ago. I don’t know why or how it works but it keeps them at the correct moisture, and it really does work! To have your say on the forum visit: http://forum.kitchengarden.co.uk www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Kitchen Garden is available on cassette tape at very reasonable rates to anyone unable to read normal type. Details from the Talking Newspaper Association of the UK on 01435 866102. ISSN 1369-1821 © Copyright Mortons Media Group Ltd. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or part, without prior approval in writing is prohibited. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. www.kitchengarden.co.uk ADVERT DEADLINE: August 9, 2018 NEXT ISSUE: August 30, 2018

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 15

Give your compost a good turn. This will mix up the ‘greens’ and ‘browns’ and also let in air to aid in the decomposition process

Illustrations: Let’s Face It

“See more on our YouTube channel”

The KG team offer chat, tips and gardening gossip

3 Mudketeers F FLAT AS A... BEETROOT?

I love a bit of fresh-cooked beetroot in my summer salads where it adds some lovely sweetness and a different texture to other typical salad ingredients. It is alsso very good for you as it is packed with antioxidants and vitamins. This year I’ve been growing an American heritage variety that I have never tried before called ‘Crosby’s Egyptian’ (1869), unusual for its slightly flattened roots which look a bit like a small Japanese onion. I got my seeds from Mr Fothergill’s who claim that this variety is slow to bolt and I have to agree. Mine have been growing in a very hot polytunnel which has regularly hit 45C/113F this summer, yet not a bolter in sight! I’ve found the roots to be tender and delicious when cooked young and they have a lovely deep, earthy, sweet flavour that I love, so I’ll definitely be growing them again – outside for main crops and in my polytunnel for early and late sowings.

GIANTS AMONGST DWARVES Big isn’t always better and if you don’t want to bother with bean poles and all that goes with growing taller varieties, in future why not try some dwarf bean varieties like the Muddies did this year? Here they are – shirking again, no doubt – behind these colourful dwarf beans. There’s ‘Jackpot’ runners in there plus a rather attractive purple French bean variety called 16 | SEPTEMBER 2018

‘Velour’. These were started off in cell trays and then transplanted in late June for early autumn picking. Dwarf varieties grow well in large pots too, so a great option if you want to bring something both edible and ornamental to the patio. There are plenty of flowers on them which are setting well so the Muds are hoping for a bumper harvest!

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THE THREE MUDKETEERS

PRETTY IN PURPLE

I have grown an old French variety of snow pea this year called ‘Carouby de Maussane’. It has had something of a revival in recent times and rightly so because it is as beautiful as it is tasty. The flowers are exquisite in pale mauve and deep burgundy and as showy as any sweet pea. The large flat pods are delicious and sweet enough to munch straight off the plant. One reason I grew it was because I didn’t want dwarf mangetout peas. I wanted something taller to train upwards and have something easier to pick. I sowed the peas in April in cell trays then planted them against a wigwam of canes. They grew to about 1.5m (5ft) in height. Many seed suppliers sell this variety, including Kings Seeds and D T Brown.

Here Daucus the gnome offers some top tips and little garden projects to encourage children to get into gardening

This project is particularly good for very small children and is a good introduction to growing. The pots can be placed in the smallest of backyards and because the children have made them they will enjoy watering and caring for the pot and picking the produce.

WHAT YOU NEED:

GROWING FOR GOLD I’m not the biggest courgette fan yet, year after year, I invariably grow too many and before I know it my courgette problem has become a marrow problem. Where I used to work before, there was a colleague who could never get enough of them – it always puzzled me how someone could eat that many courgettes! This year I’ve been growing a variety called ‘Goldmine’, which produces bright yellow, striped fruit. Despite the hot summer and dilatory watering, my courgette plants are very productive. And now, having eaten a few, I can recommend them for ﬂavour – in fact, they’re the tastiest ones I’ve ever had! Seeds available from www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk

■ A brightly coloured pot. If you prefer not to use plastic you could paint a terracotta pot ■ Some coloured foam sheets available from craft shops ■ Scissors ■ PVA glue ■ Plants of your choice. We used a tomato, cucumber and some petunias ■ Multi-purpose compost and a cane for the tomato STEP 1: Pre-cut some little squares of foam and put in a saucer. Don’t cut up too small so little ﬁngers can handle them. Using a pencil write the child’s name in chunky letters on the pot. Paint over the letters with the glue. Turn the pot upside down and invite the children to stick the foam pieces on to the glue. STEP 2: The foam pieces can be then coated in a watered down PVA solution to help seal and make the surface a bit more waterproof. Then start ﬁlling the pot with compost.

STEP 3: When the pot is nearly full help the children plant up the pot. It is good to let them handle the plants and put them in the pot. It might be a bit haphazard but you can gently tweak the pot as they plant.

STEP 4: Place the pots outside and let the children water them. Keep an eye on the pots and help the children to water and feed them occasionally.

Daucus would like to know your top tips for getting children interested in growing fruit and veg. Do write to him via erawlings@mortons.co.uk

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 17

GET GROWING

■ ‘BLUE DIADEM’: This variety produces beautiful blue, puff-like blooms and grows to 75cm (30in). (Marshalls) ■ ‘DOUBLE MIXED D’ D’: Growing to a height of 60cm (2ft), these give you plenty of colour options for display, with shades of red, rose, maroon, blue and white. (Kings)

Simple and unpretentious, cornﬂowers offer a brilliant splash of colour to the garden or veg patch, and make excellent cut ﬂowers too, says Tony Flanagan

hen we think of cornflowers, we SOWING Cornflowers prefer a well-drained soil in a think of vibrant blue flowers, nodding nonchalantly in the sunny position. Sow from March to May, or wind. But cornflowers come in alternatively August to September undercover an array of colours, including blues, dark reds for an early summer flowering the next year. The main floweringg p period is June to August. and pinks – plus some bicolour varieties. As a cut flower this annual a is a Start off in small pots of sieved compost great complement to otther, or sow in situ. For those started off in poots, plant out when they are more ostentatious floweers, but are beautiful too as bigg enough to handle. For direct a single variety display. sowing, s the soil should be worked to a fine tilth. Cover In fact, a few cuttings in a simple vase can seed to a depth of 6mm (¼in), bring something then water in. wonderful to the AFTERCARE windowsill in seconds. You Y can plant cornflowers in They are also a great clu umps, about 5-7cm (2-3in) flower for attracting A butterﬂy sips from the simple betw ween each plant so that each pollinators such as bees blooms one su upports the other; or plant 15cm and butterflies to the gaarden.

18 | SEPTEMBER 2018

(6in) apart. Cornflowers also doo well in pots, so that is an option too. Cornflowers need very little maintenance – just keep the surrounding soil weed free and water the flowers well in dry weather, though they are fairly drought tolerant. Deadhead any flowers that go over and cut regularly to encourage more blooms.

CUTTING

Use a sharp knife and cut the stems at a 45 degree angle. The flowers will last five to seven days in a vase of water. Drying is also an option. To do this, cut flowers on a dry day and after any dew has dissipated. Choose flowers that have only just opened to prevent petals dropping later. Tie stems together and hang upside down in a dry, dark shed or similar. The quicker they dry the better as the colour of the petals can fade otherwise. ■ www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Picture: Kings

o was als ﬂower n r o ’s c r e Th helo as ‘Bac d known believe s a w It ’. n a o t But rn by wer wo e the ﬂo uld fad o w man ent w young e v if his lo quickly ited. unrequ

Picture: Marshalls

■ ‘BLACK BALL’: These dark mauve double ﬂowers grow up to 90cm (3ft), perfect for taller displays. (Dobies)

Picture: Dobies

VARIETIES S

YOU

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YOUR PLOT

KG PROBLEM SOLVER GOT A FRUIT OR VEG PROBLEM? ASK KG FOR HELP

PEAR TREE GONE PEAR-SHAPED

DOUBLE TROUBLE WITH TOMS I have grown six ‘Marmande’ tomato plants. So far all six plants seem to have a double flower on the first truss. Any reason for this anomaly? Harold Bishop, Nottingham Bob Flowerdew, Radio 4’s Gardeners’ Question Time panellist B BOB SAYS: This is unusual but not unknown. Flowers doubling can occur from many causes: cultural conditions, inherited tendency, insect or p pest damage, or weather. To have all six plants do the same is exceptional and indicates a genetic tendency, which could be the case as ‘Marmande’ is an old French variety which has long been self-fertlilised and not cross-pollinated, thus is ‘inbred’. Pleiotaxy, as it is called, is a form of doubling and is quite rare in tomatoes. Doubling usually involves the conversion of other parts and thus the flower may not function perfectly. However, as you need to reduce the fruits per truss to two at most (if you want them to get decently large) then I suggest simply removing the affected flowers along with several others.

I have taken over an allotment and it has a miniature pear tree with a disease on it. I am wondering what is best to do with the tree and I have no idea what is the cause of the disease. Could you help me with this please? There is a reddish crumbly powdery substance under the bark which has mostly come off. The tree was standing in a waterlogged clay area, which has now w got a drainage ditch. New shoots have been appearing and new leaves but the tree is clearly struggling. Ulla Boutwood, Leedss David Patch, professional nurseryman R V Rogers Ltd DAVID SAYS: I think the problem was almost certainly caused by being in a waterlogged soil, which all fruit trees will struggle with, pears in particular. If the tree is producing new growth, it is definitely worth persevering with the tree for a year to see if it will recover now drainage has been improved.

BROWNED OFF WITH RHUBARB LEAVES I only started last year in growing my own fruit and veg. I have made four large g raised beds with some success. Howevver, when I decided to start to grow w my own vegetables a friend suggested rhubarb as it grows anywhere. However, my rhubarb (‘Timperley Early’) is iin its second year and its leaves aree going brown again. Derek Munro, Moray Steve Ott, editor Kitchen Garden magazine STEVE SAYS: Your rhubarb is still quite young and may take another year or two to establish properly in a new raised bed. The brown marks on the leaves appear to be

Our Star Question winner will receive vouchers worth £25; the writers of all other questions printed will receive a £10 voucher. They can be redeemed against any products in the latest Mr

20 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Fothergill’s catalogue, which will be sent out with the vouchers so you can choose from the massive range of quality products including seeds and garden equipment. To receive a free catalogue, call 08453 710518 or visit www.mr-fothergills.co.uk Email questions

The damaged bark is allowing secondary disease to get in, so the key is to try and stop diseases s such as canker t taking hold. I w would paint all t affected bark the w a pruning with s sealant such as M Medo or Arbrex S N Heal. It Seal would then be wise to give the tree a w winter wash in December. G the pear tree another year – if Give it continues to struggle then it’s probably time to cut your losses and take it out. Most fruit trees suffer from re-plant disease, so you wouldn’t want to put another pear in the same position. Try and change as much of the soil as possible before replanting. Add a mycorrhizal soil treatment to the planting hole to give the new tree the best start.

caused by scorching and a the most likely l cause for f this would be b strong sunshine s on the t leaves after a a shower of o rain, or watering, or w strong, drying s winds wind (if your site is very exposed you might consider installing a wind break or planting taller veg nearby). The plant should recover and grow out of this. However, it does look a little undernourished so I would recommend a dressing of a general fertiliser such as chicken manure pellets or Growmore.

to tﬂanagan@mortons.co.uk or post to Question Time, Kitchen Garden, Mortons Media Group, Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR. Please include your full address on letters and emails. We do not publish full addresses.

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PROBLEM SOLVER XXX Your guide to common pests, diseases and other problems affecting your crops, with Guy Barter, chief horticultural adviser for the RHS APPLE SCAB

Common, especially in wet seasons. HOW TO CONTROL: With no fungicides currently offered, control by destroying fallen foliage in early winter. Garlic-based tonics help trees grow healthy foliage less susceptible to disease and are worth trying. In severe cases consider replanting with resistant cultivars.

APPLE SAWFLY

Maggots of apple sawﬂy tunnel young apples, leading to fruit drop in early to mid-summer. Some larger fruits survive damage but bear a long curved surface scar. HOW TO CONTROL: Destroying affected fruits can prevent the sawﬂies completing their life cycle. For heavy infestations an insecticide applied with seven days of petal-fall will protect the fruits.

POWDERY MILDEW

Very common in dry seasons, powdery mildew can severely damage foliage from spring onwards. The shoot tips curl and become disﬁgured and whiten.

CODLING MOTH

Codling moth caterpillars tunnel and spoil apples, with damage appearing in late summer. The adults ﬂy from early summer.

HOW TO CONTROL: Potassium bicarbonate can be legally sprayed on to foliage as a control, although fungicides in the strict sense are not available to home gardeners. Pruning out affected shoots in summer and in winter can also help.

HOW TO CONTROL: Pheromone traps capture male moths and give some control. Traps provide warning of ﬂy activity and thus the best time to apply insecticides is generally mid-June and again in early July.

APHIDS

Greenfly can cause distortion of foliage and fruits. Foliage damage is not especially serious but affected fruit is often unfit for use. HOW TO CONTROL: A soap (fatty acid) or oil-based spray can give sufficient control. Predators such as earwigs should be encouraged.

PICTURES: Royal Horticultural Society

WOOLLY APHID

Fluffy white ‘mould’ on shoots often around pruning cuts, spreading to the trunk and causing swellings on new shoots indicate woolly aphids. The pest excretes the white covering to fend off its enemies. HOW TO CONTROL: Brushing off with soapy water is effective if laborious. In severe cases try applying an approved insecticide. Nearby cotoneasters and pyracantha might also require treatment.

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 21

ONLINE INSPIRATION

GROWING ONLINE WE DIG INTO THE WORLD WIDE WEB TO HARVEST GREAT WEBSITES, BLOGS & TWEETS

NUKED BY CUKES? TOMATO GLUT?

Why not make a passata? Simple to make and sooo tasty! http://bit.ly/2tpdcTN

If you’ve grown too many cucumber plants this summer and cucumbers seem to be dropping on you from a great height – don’t despair! The www.tablespoon.com website has Ten Things to Do with a Cucumber, including a cold cucumber soup, a quick to make cucumber pickle, cucumber and lime martini and a creamy tzatziki sauce. For the full list and recipes go to: http://bit.ly/2tktgGs On the other hand, if it’s courgettes you’ve been stockpiling, how about taking a look at the BBC Good Food website which also has 10 suggestions – all of them polite, I hasten to add – about what you can do with your courgettes. These include a spiralised courgette (courgetti) recipe and using courgettes in cake, bread, salsa, soups, pickles and pizzas. http://bit.ly/2K315X1

GROWING BIG

TWITTER

CARROT DEATH THREAT

soy nugget @coldoctober I’m currently eating carrots that I bought a month ago, because I forgot about them in the fridge and they don’t look bad, but if I die just know I was taken out by b a vegetable. bl

The heaviest onion in the world was grown by UK giant veg devotee Tony Glover. On September 12, 2014, his onion weighed in at 18lb 11.84oz, at the Harrogate Autumn Flower Show, North Yorkshire. The heaviest pumpkin in the world was grown by Belgian pumpkin king Mathias Willemijns, whose monstrosity weighed in at 1190.49kg (2624.6lb) when it was weighed in Ludwigsburg, Germany, on October 9, 2016. You may not have the time or inclination to grow such gargantuans, but if you are interested in the world of giant veg growing take a look at www.giantveg. co.uk. This site has some very useful growing guides speciﬁc to growing giant veg, and a giant-seed shop.

Tony Glover with his recordbreaking onion

80 MINUTES A WEEK! FACEBOOK FAVES DIRT IS GOOD FOR YOU

Sheila Duby Newman I ﬁnd so much peace and relaxation in gardening. It’s funny how l just lose all worries and thoughts when I dig in the dirt.

@GrowWithKG 22 | SEPTEMBER 2018

KitchenGardenUK

Paul Cartwright, the mastermind behind the Green Fingered Blog, has a full-time job and three children, so is always looking for ways of making gardening easier, quicker and cheaper. His blog is regularly updated with lots of practical dayto-day advice on a range of veg and flowers. His ‘The 80 Minute Allotment’ entries will suit all of us who try to balance real life with the dream world of growing your own. KitchenGardenMag

Add to that sections on garden design, gardens for children, garden wildlife and more, this is an active and comprehensive site which is well worth a visit. For more go to: greenfingeredblog. blogspot.com

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 23

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GET GROWING

EDIBLE HOSTAS Slugs have long known hostas are delicious, so if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good enough for a slug! The best bits to eat are the young quills, which are the curled new growth. The Japanese embrace the hosta, or urui as it is called, in their cooking and it allegedly has a fresh taste like that of snow peas or lettuce and even asparagus. H. montana and H. sieboldii are supposed to be the best species to try. They can be stir fried or boiled and served as a side dish or fried as tempura. p

Opium poppies produce seed that can be used to sprinkle on homemade bread

PLANTS WITH PURPOSE

Growing plants that are edible or useful but also attractive is the model Wendy Pillar chose for her garden. Here she explains how she created it

used to have a conventional ornamental garden around the house. It never worked though, because I don’t see the point in growing purely ornamental plants and I have too little time. It just became neglected and weedy, and badly needed a revamp. I wanted the space to produce food for the kitchen, even if it was in small quantities. I was inspired by Stephen Barstow’s book Around the World in 80 Plants to try an ‘edimental’ garden – that is, one that is both edible and ornamental. The brief was that every plant in it had to be edible or useful, and attractive too. I wanted to supply food for bees and other pollinators, and it had to be low maintenance. To achieve low maintenance I heavily h il mulched with woodchip, which I leave undisturbed to minimise th he need to weed and water and to gradually improve the soil. This means that most plants need to be perennials. The many interesting root crops, like Chinese artichokes and edible sweet peas, I reluctantly left out because harvesting them means disturbing the soil. Since RIGHT: Magnolia ﬂowers can be pickled

CHAENOMELES (Japanese quince)

This is a good wall shrub especially in poor soils. It has pretty ﬂowers in lovely pinks or orange colours and also white. It then produces golden yellow fruits which are good for making into jam or jellies.

A border containing society garlic, artichoke, crab apple and beech

I have an annual vegetable garden, what I was looking for was additional crops, things I can’t buy and unusual flavours to add interest to my meals. I started out thinking that it was going to be difficult and that I would need to track down unusual, exotic plants, but a surprising number of common garden plants are good edibles; like day lillies and ostrich fern. Many traditional herbs also fit the bill; like lavender, rosemary, bee balm and hyssop. Stone crop (Sedum spectabile) is also loved by bees and the leaves are loved by me in a salad. Magnolia blossoms are good to eat, especially pickled (see eatweeds.co.uk), as are the berries on mahonia, berberis and fuschia. Far from being exotic, many good edibles are hiding in plain sight! ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 27

GET GROWING ROSES AND ‘WEEDS’

Trained fruit trees look great. Roses can be included too, the petals being used in Middle Eastern cookery as well as for jam. Dark red, scented ones work best. Foliage plants like perennial kale and rhubarb provide structure, and cardoons make a bold design statement. Szechuan pepper and its relatives provide spice. There is even an excuse for leaving weeds like dandelions and daisies! There were so many good plants on my list that I soon had to start making choices between them. The garden is bordered by a low beech hedge (the young leaves are used in salad and also to make a liqueur, noyau) and within that the main structure is provided by globe artichokes. They are my favourite vegetable and they are beautiful plants. They took up a lot of space in the vegetable plot, so I dug up and split my existing plants and planted them every three feet. I’m no garden designer, but this gives a pleasing repetition and sense of unity to the garden. Where there was a choice of flower colour, like with bee balm, I chose pink and purple varieties to go with the silver artichokes, in a loose kind of colour scheme. As well as the herbs and garden plants, there are two crab apple trees framing some steps, since I love crab apple jelly. I have also used some plants that are familiar from the veg patch, but in a different way. One bed is dotted with hardneck garlic and instead of digging up the bulbs, I am leaving them in the ground and growing them for their flower stems, or scapes, which are delicious, and their contorted shapes are really striking.

■ There are many ways to approach an edimental garden, so when planning it, be precise in deﬁning what you want from it; whether it replaces a conventional veg patch or adds to it, what you want to eat and how much time you want to spend on it. It is possible to make it very low maintenance if it is well mulched. If you don’t have a separate veg patch, you can use a mixture of edimentals and conventional annual vegetables to good effect. ■ Do your research. You will be eating these plants, so make sure you get the correct species and that plants have not been treated with pesticides. There is plenty of information available online and in books by Stephen Barstow, Martin Crawford, Mark Diacono and Alys Fowler.

HUNGRY GAP FILLER

A perennial veg patch really comes into its own during the spring, in the hungry gap. Since the plants have well-established roots and stored energy, they grow much earlier than annuals, and crop right when the veg patch is leanest. There are several perennial onions, like Welsh onions, and wild garlic is another valuable spring crop, producing leaves in a shady corner, followed by white flowers – all parts of the plant being good to eat. It makes a great soup mixed with sorrel. I have planted wild asparagus too, with slimmer spears and more pronounced flavour than the cultivated kind, in a natural looking drift. Another traditional perennial vegetable is seakale. Its forced shoots are delicious, its flowers are a tasty addition to a salad in summer and it looks great.

TOP: Mulching with bark or other materials helps keep the weeds down in an edimental garden LEFT: Hyssop is used in the making of the liqueur Chartreuse, but it can also be used as a ﬂavouring in cooking

PRETTY ‘GARLIC’ Society garlic or Tulbaghia violacea is so called because the Dutch settlers to South Africa felt this garlic was a more polite flavouring to use in dishes than ordinary garlic. The leaves and flowers are used and have a mild garlic flavour.

28 | SEPTEMBER 2018

RIGHT: Chives are a must-have for an edimental garden. Pretty ﬂowers and pretty tasty too

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THE EDIMENTAL GARDEN

SCORZONERA I have planted scorzonera, which also stays in the ground, for its spring shoots and yellow ﬂowers. The dark tuberous roots are eaten like parsnips and have a mild ﬂavour.

LEFT: Monarda is also called bee balm and, as the name implies, bees love it RIGHT: Place a bucket over seakale plants in late winter and enjoy the blanched stems in spring. Don’t blanch all the stems every year, let some have a year off to rest BELOW: Lavender has many uses including ﬂavouring food BOTTOM: Welsh onion stems are strongly ﬂavoured so may be best cooked

“There are quite a few edible flowers, including some annuals, which self-seed.”

EDIBLE FLOWERS

There are quite a few edible flowers, including some annuals, which self-seed. Cornflowers, violets, heartsease, nasturtium, marigold and primula are all included. They are hardly subsistence food, but add flavour and colour with very little effort – and you can’t buy them in the supermarket. The opium poppies are there for their seeds, for use in bread and baking, and angelica is also there for seeds as well as stems. I don’t know why it took so long for me to plant my garden this way. After all, if you are going to have an ornamental garden, it might as well be edible! ■

SPECIALIST NURSERIES

■ Edulis: www.edulis.co.uk ■ The Agroforestry Research Trust: www.agroforestry.co.uk ■ Pennard Plants: www.pennardplants.com www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Always do your research before embarking on growing and eating more unusual plants. Some species of the same plant can be eaten while others may be poisonous. It is best to buy plants from specialist sources to be sure you are getting the right plant for the purpose.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 29

GET GROWING

This month Rob Smith turns his attention to broccoli,, one of the gardenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more versatile vegetables

BROCCOLI

Sow in modules initially, two to three seeds per cell

here are a few vegetables in the garden that come in different guises, but broccoli has to be pretty near the top of the list. Not only can you grow it for sprouts (as in the small seedlings you mix through salads), but you can grow it for large florets like you buy in the supermarket and even as long spears in the form of sprouting or stem broccoli. The fact it has a high vitamin content and has been linked to having anticancer agents, has led to an increase in people growing their own over the last decade or so. This versatile member of the brassica family can be eaten raw, steamed, boiled and stir-fried, and pretty much served with anything from salads to soups. Broccoli is pretty easy to grow and can be quite fast to crop, too. Heading types crop in the summer and autumn, while the sprouting varieties such as purple sprouting are very hardy and grow through the winter, cropping in the spring when there are very few vegetables to be harvested in the garden.

CALABRESE

If you want to, bypass the sowing part and buy

The broccoli we often buy from the supermarket plug plants instead is in fact calabrese, which produces a green, PURPLE SPROUTING tightly packed main flowerhead, rather than a When growing sprouting broccoli, purple number of loose florets. You can either start seeds off indoors from sprouting such as ‘Early Purple Sprouting’ is a popular choice. With its attractive purpleMarch to June, or sow them directly outside later in the year. I prefer to start mine off indoors tinged heads on long, tender stems, it is a lovely vegetable to harvest in the early spring. If you as you have more protection from the weather are looking for something a little different, and pests, plus you use less seed (which can be you could go for one of the white sprouting expensive if using F1 varieties). Simply sow two varieties like ‘White Star’, which produces small, to three seeds per module and leave them in a creamy yellow florets which almost look like cold frame or cold greenhouse and they should tiny cauliflowers. Sprouting varieties are like the germinate within two weeks. untidy cousin of calabrese, with a more open As soon as they are big enough to handle, thin your plants to leave the strongest plant per and unruly plant habit. They also take a lot longer to grow and crop and normally need a module and wait for them to produce a good, period of cold (over winter) strong root system before planting them out to force them to produce around 60cm (2ft) apart. Add well-rotted their harvest. Sow as manure or compost to the planting hole for calabrese April to give plants a head start. Remember, if “You can to July for an early you don’t have the time to grow from either start spring harvest seed, you can buy plug plants and seeds off indoors the following even bigger potted broccoli plants to year. ➤ put straight into the garden. from March-June

or sow them directly outside later in the year.”

■ When it comes to problems you might face with broccoli, there are of course the usual suspects, such as slugs and snails, plus pigeons who can decimate sprouting broccoli in the winter months when there is little else for them to eat. Be sure to secure netting well over your plants, as a fat pigeon landing on top of the net can make it sag down low enough for the feathery ﬁends to peck away happily at your plants.

■ Club root can also be a problem if you suffer from it in your area or if your soil is acidic. With this disease roots become deformed so that the plants don’t grow properly or produce heads. This can be reduced by adding lime to your soil to make it more alkaline, or alternatively you can buy club root-resistant varieties such as 'Monclano F1', which will crop where others would fail.

■ Try putting up bird scarers or old CDs on string – the shiny and reﬂective surfaces usually scare away the biggest of pigeons.

■ Funnily enough, broccoli prefers our climate more than some other vegetables, as it likes the cooler summers. If it gets too hot, most plants start to bolt early and will become bitter and inedible pretty quickly. If you know your garden becomes a sun-trap in the summer, try planting broccoli in light shade and keeping it moist; this should help prevent premature bolting and allow you to enjoy your harvest for longer.

■ I always cover my broccoli with netting to prevent cabbage white butterﬂies laying their eggs on my plants. If not, their caterpillars can destroy your plants pretty quickly. Along with netting, I use cabbage collars to stop root ﬂy affecting my plants.

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Cover broccoli and other brassicas with butterﬂy netting

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■ 'MONCLANO F1' – Calabresetype broccoli producing a main head which, once cut, is followed by tasty side shoots. Resistant to club root and mildew fungal disease, which is a real plus! Available from www.dobies.co.uk

It’s a long wait for purple sprouting, but it’s worth it

■ WOK BROCC – Perfect for stir-frying. A tender-stemmed broccoli to grow in succession from March to June and harvest June to September. Nutritious with a sweet, nutty ﬂavour. Available from www.organiccatalogue.com ■ RAAB ’60 DAYS’ – A favourite vegetable in Italy, it is very quick to grow. Generally, the whole plant is harvested and leaves, stems and ﬂower buds are all eaten. Available from www.mr-fothergills.co.uk 'Monclano F1'

Stem broccoli: the ﬂorets are sweeter and more tender than sprouting varieties

With Raab broccoli you can eat stems, leaves and buds

STEM BROCCOLI

waiting for, normally within 10 to 14 days. As they are sweeter and more tender than sprouting varieties, they are often a firm favourite with kids and are even marketed as ‘broccoli trees’ in the US!

If you like sprouting broccoli, but don’t want to go through the hassle of waiting over winter for a crop, you can grow a stem broccoli such as ‘Bellaverde Sibsey’. These varieties are less time-consuming and can be sown and harvested in the same year. They seem to be becoming more popular in the supermarkets and are sold all year round, yet I don’t think you can beat the taste of home-grown. When growing stem broccoli at home, you have to remember to cut the main head as it forms, then the plant will produce the stem broccoli spears you are

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BROCCOLI IN 60 DAYS!

If you want a delicious taste of broccoli in less time than it takes to grow regular broccoli, you could try your hand at growing broccoli Raab. Not technically a true broccoli (related to the turnip!), broccoli Raab can be sown and harvested in around two months, hence one of the varieties being called ‘60 Days’. Harvested whole, you eat the stem, leaves and buds of this plant. Imagine sticking a sprouting broccoli stem in the ground – that’s what you grow and harvest with this quick little cropper. Having a broccoli-like taste, they also have a mustard-like bitterness to them which is delicious if you like those flavours. I like to serve them steamed with a hollandaise sauce and a poached egg, making a lovely, quick lunch. However, if you like a more mild broccoli flavour, this probably won’t be for you.

BROCCOLI SPROUTS

If you want that lovely broccoli flavour in even less time than it takes to grow broccoli Raab, why not try growing broccoli sprouts or greens? These are seeds which have just germinated and started to grow, either grown in trays on the windowsill or in specialist ‘sprouters’ which you can buy online. The sprouts will almost look like cress, yet have a distinct broccoli taste, perfect for salads and sandwiches, plus they only take a few days to crop! Great to grow through the cold winter months if you are missing the taste of home-grown veg. ■

Broccoli sprouts are perfect for salads and sandwiches and quick and easy to grow www.kitchengarden.co.uk

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Foraging expert Geoff Dann explains how by doing your homework you can gather wild mushrooms with safety

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There are only a few truly toxic fungi – such as the ominously named Deathcap

Finding honey fungus in the garden would give a gardener the jitters, but to a fungi forager, it’s a potential feast

ungi foraging can be daunting to a beginner. Britain is home to a vast variety (perhaps seven times as many species as there are plants) and some of them are deadly. In many cases, identification isn’t easy (even for experienced mushroomhunters). Going foraging with an expert doesn’t always help – some of my students, especially when the fungi are plentiful, are so overwhelmed that they are even more cautious at the end of the session than they were at the beginning. For most people, though, a few hours spent with an experienced person certainly speeds up the first steps. The internet is a mixed blessing. Sure, there’s tons of information and no shortage of people offering to help, but as with so many other aspects of life online, the problem is knowing which sources you can trust. There’s also no shortage of wrongly-identified fungi, sometimes confidently so by people who sound like they know what they are talking about, but don’t. The only way to stay absolutely safe is to learn how to identify for yourself anything you are considering eating. If you are in any doubt at

all about what you have found, don’t eat it. The other really important way to stay safe is to learn about the really poisonous species first; there’s only a handful of extremely toxic fungi and if you know how to avoid these then even if you make a mistake, it won’t be a fatal one. A good book is therefore invaluable, and preferably more than one. My own offering is the most comprehensive book designed specifically with foragers in mind (with difficulty rankings and detailed descriptions of lookalike species), but it only covers the fraction of fungi which are of most interest from an edibility/ toxicity point of view, along with a few extremely common species. A more general guide to fungi is therefore also helpful and two of the best are Stephan Buczacki’s Collins The edible Horn of Plenty is usually found guide (the black one, which is the most growing beneath deciduous trees comprehensive guide but contains no edibility information) and So how do you get started once Roger Phillips’ Mushrooms “If you are you’ve got your books? The best (which is the best way is to approach it from photographic guide and in any doubt two directions. Firstly, make does have basic edibility at all about yourself a hit-list of species information). what you have which are both common and either very easy to identify, found, don't or very hard to confuse with eat it.” anything poisonous (these are ranked “beginner” in my book). Then go out into the countryside (woodland is your best bet, because there’s the biggest variety of fungi there) and try to find some of the things on your list. If you’re unlucky and don’t find any of those species, you’ll almost certainly find something else, and that’s the other direction of approach: have a go at identifying whatever you do find. Please don’t “pick and hope” – don’t pick loads of fungi you haven’t identified in the hope that if you post a photo online then somebody will tell you they are edible (they might be very rare). But do take one or two home with you and/or take a photo and post it somewhere online, and see if you can figure out what you’ve found. With practice, you’ll learn how to identify more and more species and your hit-list can expand and include more The Penny Bun (Boletus edulis) is sometimes called the Cep or Porcini and is prized by chefs difficult quarry. ➤ www.kitchengarden.co.uk

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Shaggy Inkcap

“With practice, you’ll learn how to identify more and more species”

The following edible species are the easiest of the easy. With a bit of luck, anybody can ﬁnd and safely identify these. ■ SHAGGY INKCAP (Coprinus comatus) is among the most easily recognised species, the most similar lookalike being the unrelated Common Inkcap (Coprinopsis atramentaria) (which should be avoided, especially if you drink alcohol). If you look at pictures of the two, you can see how easily they are distinguished. Shaggy Inkcaps usually grow in disturbed ground, or in grass, often associated with buried wood. ■ GIANT PUFFBALL (Calvatia gigantea) is absolutely unmistakable – nothing else is spherical (ish) and this large. It’s also delicious and impossible to miss, even from 200 metres. Sometimes turns up in woodland, but usually found in pasture, especially in cow pasture and with stinging nettles. ■ HEDGEHOG FUNGUS (Hydnum repandum) is a commercially collected species that is easily identiﬁed because it has spines beneath the cap rather than gills or tubes. Apart from a similarly-edible smaller relative (Terracotta Hedgehog, H. rufescens), the only other spined fungi are very rare in the UK, not similar to the Hedgehogs and not poisonous anyway).

Giant Puffball

Hedgehog fungus

Geoff’s great new book – Edible Mushrooms: A Forager’s Guide to the Wild Fungi of Britain, Ireland and Europe, is published by Green Books and costs £34.99. To claim your exclusive 20% discount visit the website – www.greenbooks. co.uk and enter the discount code KGARDEN20 at the checkout. Offer ends September 30, 2018

Beefsteak fungus

■ BEEFSTEAK FUNGUS (Fistulina hepatica) is impossible to confuse with anything else – it looks like a slab of meat, especially when cut open. Grows on both dead and living trees, usually oak. Tastes fruity and can be eaten raw, in thin slices. ■ CAULIFLOWER FUNGUS (Sparrasis crispa) is another totally unmistakable fungus, looking like a giant light-brown brain and always appearing at the base of pine trees. Needs careful washing. 38 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Cauliﬂower fungus

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Malabar spinach deserves to be more widely grown, being as pretty as it is versatile in the kkitchen, says exotic veg expert Sally Cunningham

Basella alba â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rubraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

MALABAR SPINACH

alabar spinach is a favourite of mine. It also has other names; Basella alba, Ceylon, Indian or Vietnamese spinach. It really SIMPLE TO SOW loved the warm start to May, taking off like a rocket in the polytunnel and rapidly climbing to Basella is well worth growing for ornament alone: the glossy leaves make an attractive vine its 2m (6ft 6in) height up hastily-erected binder for a corner of a hot conservatory, and if it gets twine slung from the supports. too big, just munch… what’s not to like? Sowing It’s a climbing leaf veg, with heart-shaped, is simple; just pre-soak in warm water overnight, deeply veined fleshy leaves: in my case, a when they will turn the water a satisfying ruby mixture of reddish and green-stemmed plants, red. Put the seeds in a pot and just cover and but strictly speaking should come in either red keep as warm as possible. (Basella alba ‘Rubra’) or green varieties. The In normal years mine cuddle the boiler, but succulent textured foliage has been very welcome as an alternative to lettuce when my imagination this time I just stuck them on the bedroom for what-can-I-put-in-yet-another salad has been windowsill in full sun and germination took severely tested, and is refreshing by itself without under 10 days, although it can be a little longer if it’s more conventional British weather. the need for calorie-loaded dressings. A Chinese Plant in rich, fertile soil and provide support; mate says it’s like pork fat for vegetarians! mine are probably a little too close at 30cm Mild, juicily earthy, the taste is reminiscent (12in) apart, but it’s a crowded tunnel. You of the most tender chard seedling, but much could easily fit at least six in a growing bag or bigger and better… and the more you pick, the four in a 45cm (18in) pot. more you get, although production is Seeds are offered by a surprisingly starting to tail off now the days large number of companies, are beginning to shorten. Older “A Chinese including Jungle Seeds, leaves can be cooked like Robinson’s, King’s, C N Seeds spinach or used as a green mate says and Chiltern: you’ll only need version of tinfoil to wrap it’s like to buy it once unless it’s a individual finger foods like pork fat for dismal summer, saving seed prawns while they cook, secured by a cocktail stick vegetarians!” for next year. if you’re fond of origami, or string if, like me, you’re not that neat. It’s good for you too – high in Vitamin A, C and calcium, with antioxidants as well.

Eaten raw or cooked, the leaves are delicious www.kitchengarden.co.uk

The ﬂower spikes are edible, too

Pre-soak the seeds before sowing

SAVE THEM FOR LATER

Basella does flower, just – tiny pink bobbles, looking like a dolly’s hairband, lurk under the leaves if you look closely enough. They hardly open but seem to set easily enough by visiting insects or self-pollination. With luck, these will ripen into little black clusters of seeds, welded together like a beetroot, which have an unfortunate tendency to drop as soon as you approach them. If you can pick them before they fall, they usually save well enough to sow again next season. ■

The little ﬂowers are bobble-like

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Good soil is essential if you want to produce healthy crops. Sue Stickland explains how to determine the composition of your soil and what you need to do to keep it hale and hearty

Get a feel for your soil – literally – when you are working out in the garden

A good crumbly top soil

Clay soil can be moulded into a ring when moist

often imagine the soil on my vegetable patch sighing – with contentment when I cover it with a layer of dark crumbly compost, or with despair at yet another deluge of winter rain. You might conclude that I’ve spent too long alone out there, talking to my turnips, but this idea is not as fanciful as it first appears. Traditional soil tests just measure the type of soil you have (sand, silt, clay) and the nutrients it contains (phosphorus, potassium and so on). The latest ones, however, also look at factors such as its enzyme activity and respiration rate – so soil does breathe! These measurements recognise that all living creatures in the soil contribute to producing flourishing crops – from the familiar earthworms to microscopic bacteria and fungi. The tests are too complicated and expensive for most garden plots, but you don’t need them. Use your eyes, ears and nose when you are working out in the garden, and deliberately get your hands dirty. You will soon learn to sympathise with your soil and understand how to keep it and your plants healthy.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR SOIL

A well-structured soil has pores and vertical cracks which allow water to drain and air to reach the plant roots

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A hole dug for a tree or fence post can reveal a lot about your soil structure – you should see pores with roots and cracks reaching downwards

A basic gardening text will help you tell whether your soil is predominately sand, silt or clay (I suggest searching www.rhs.org.uk for ‘soil types’), but feel and listen to it when you are out on the plot. A sandy soil is gritty and falls through your fingers – you rarely hear it squelch. Clay is so sticky when wet that you can make models out of it. Silts are squeaky and slippery. You are stuck with your soil type – you can’t change it. However, you can change the soil structure. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

CARING FOR YOUR SOIL

These common types of earthworm live in the topsoil, mixing it up as they make temporary burrows, and produce casts rich in nutrients

Earthworms with a ‘saddle’ (a raised band) on their bodies are adults; those without saddles are juniors and indicate that the worm population could grow

The number of earthworms in a spadeful of soil is a good indicator of soil health, as worms together with beneﬁcial soil organisms share a dislike of soils that are compacted, waterlogged, or very acid or alkaline. Counting worms for the Earthworm Watch project is fun for all the family

Look at it carefully. In a well-structured soil, the basic particles of sand, silt and clay have formed larger fragments so it is crumbly – imagine breadcrumbs or making a topping to an apple crumble. The spaces between the crumbs allow air and moisture into the soil and allow excess water to drain away, so plant roots and all the creatures that live there can breathe. When clods of a well-structured soil dry out on the surface, you can break them up easily with a fork. When you dig down to plant a tree or put in a post, good soil smells sweet, not rank and airless. Look at the side of the hole: you want to see pores and tiny vertical cracks, but not horizontal cracks or compacted layers – these will stop plant roots going down.

ACID OR ALKALINE?

The acidity or alkalinity of a soil is basically the amount of chalk or lime it contains. This matters because it influences how easily plants can take up nutrients and how comfortable it is for earthworms and other soil organisms to live there. The acidity or ‘pH’ depends on the soil type and area of the country where you live, but also on very local factors – your neighbour might be growing beautiful azaleas (a sign of an acid soil), but if your garden is on the site of an old building with lime mortar, yours could be very alkaline. A slightly acid soil (pH around 6.5) is best for veg growing. If you are taking on a new plot, it is worth doing a pH test – use a DIY kit from a garden centre or, even better, send a soil sample away to a laboratory. Either way, take the sample before you add any manure or fertilisers as these could affect the results. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Check the acidity of the soil (its pH), particularly if you are starting a new plot

Commercial organic grower Iain Tolhurst counts worms in his ﬁeld of cauliﬂowers

SOIL-DWELLING CREATURES

greater access to nutrients and water. Of course, there are also harmful soil micro-organisms – some of them, such as white rot on onions, all too familiar – but in a healthy soil, the ‘goodies’ attack the ‘baddies’ or simply outcompete them for moisture and nutrients. Earthworms have their own important roles. Those found near the surface (the smallest) help break down leaf debris. Those which live just below mix and aerate the soil and produce casts rich in nutrients. The largest deep-living earthworms make permanent vertical tunnels into which they pull debris and these help to aerate and drain the soil. Regularly counting the number of earthworms in a spadeful of soil is a good way to monitor your soil’s health. ➤

Turn over a clod of soil and you’ll probably spot several earthworms and perhaps a centipede scurrying away. If a robin comes to join you, his beady eyes will spot a few smaller creatures too. However, most life in the soil is microscopic, made up of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, micorrhiza and other organisms with even stranger names. You can’t see them, but you can see the results of their work. They decompose organic matter, making nutrients available to plants. They help soil particles stick together, improving the soil structure. They form beneficial relationships with plant roots, effectively extending their reach so they have

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Living roots are best at building up the soil structure and feeding the community of soil creatures – and in my imagination keeping the soil full of plants at all times makes it feel wanted. Intercrop widely spaced plants with other quick-growing ones. Sow green manures in bare beds – annuals such as phacelia or mustard or overwintering grazing rye can be sown in early autumn when summer crops are over. Think twice before clearing crops and annual weeds just for tidiness – if they are not harbouring pests or diseases or shedding seeds, let them grow until you need the space. I cut off the tops of my sweetcorn after harvest, for example, and leave the roots in the ground and the chopped up stalks on the soil surface. If salads such as lamb’s lettuce or claytonia self-seed, I also leave them as a winter cover.

DON’T TREAD ON IT

Avoid compacting the soil, especially in wet conditions. Its light breadcrumb structure can instantly turn to heavy pancake and you can almost feel it getting out of breath. Even light pressure can cause a hard layer or ‘cap’ to form on the surface, preventing seedlings emerging. Permanent beds which you can work just from the paths mean you never have to tread on the soil – they don’t necessarily have to be raised up or have posh edging.

Creating permanent narrow beds means you never have to tread on the soil

ADD ORGANIC MATTER

Compost and manure are food for the soil – for the soil-dwelling creatures and the plants – and they help improve the soil’s structure. However, don’t add them until spring, otherwise the nutrients they contain will wash out over winter. A layer of leafmould, hay or straw is a better autumn cover for bare beds – I often use the mix of fallen leaves and grass mowings that I collect off the lawns with the mower. Woody plants such as fruit trees and bushes can be permanently mulched with coarser material – hay, bark, straw or shreddings made from FOR MORE small leafy branches.

ON GREEN MANURES SEE P73

Even lightly treading on the soil can damage the structure and cause a hard cap to form on the surface

Keeping the soil covered with growing plants is one of the best ways to build its structure:

Annual green manures are often killed by frosts over winter or can be chopped off; grazing rye can be cut repeatedly then covered with a mulch

Widely spaced sweetcorn intercropped with a quick crop of lettuce

Trefoil sown under widely spaced brassicas

Phacelia annual green manure

Hardy overwintering grazing rye

44 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Don’t clear crops or weeds unnecessarily – self sown lamb’s lettuce and claytonia make good winter cover www.kitchengarden.co.uk

CARING FOR YOUR SOIL

TESTING SOIL HEALTH

“Growing a variety of plants also encourages different types of soil organism...”

Wait until spring to add manure or compost to prevent nutrients leaching out

DON’T DIG UNNECESSARILY

Digging turns the world of the soil-dwelling creatures upside down. It severs all the drainage and aeration channels that the worms have made and the microscopic strands of fungi. Rotavating is worse, shattering the soil structure and creating a ‘pan’ (a compacted layer) at the depth of the blades. Dig new ground initially to break up hard layers and remove any woody roots or builders’ rubble (I found bricks, old tool heads, nasty pieces of glass and a car number plate under my plot!). After that avoid it wherever possible and never cultivate when the soil is wet. Compost and manure can be spread on the soil surface, which will develop a crumbly ‘tilth’ making it easy to pull out weeds and sow seeds.

ROTATE CROPS

The traditional reason for rotating crops on the veg plot is to avoid the build up of pests and diseases, but it can also improve the general health of the soil. I sometimes fancy that it stops the soil feeling bored, but in fact the change between deep rooting and shallow rooting crops directly helps the soil structure. Growing a variety of plants also encourages different types of soil organism, each with their own useful role, so building up a resilient microscopic community.

The vital role soil plays in growing healthy plants and people is increasingly being recognised, both nationally and internationally, by everyone from small-scale farmers and growers to government agencies. Did you know there is now a World Soil Day on December 5 every year? In the UK, the GREATsoils project (Growing Resilient Efﬁcient and Thriving soils) has been set up to help commercial fruit and vegetable growers, market gardeners and other professional horticulturists, to assess and manage the health of their soils. A whole range of soil tests have been evaluated and promoted, from simply digging a hole with a spade and counting worms through to the most sophisticated analysis of nutrients and micro-organisms. Plenty is happening for gardeners too. In ‘Earthworm Watch’, a project run by the Earthwatch Institute and the Natural History Museum, gardeners throughout the country are helping research into the role of earthworms and how they help create healthy soils (www.earthwormwatch.org). It involves recording the properties of your soil and counting different types of earthworms in two shallow pits in different places in the garden. Data sent in is used to map the abundance of earthworms across different soil types and work out how to best improve soil health. Results so far show that the highest density of worms occurs in vegetable beds fed with organic matter. If you want to know more about the worms in your garden – the good work they do and how to identify and encourage them – download the Go Wild for Worms booklet produced by the Royal Horticultural Society and The Wildlife Trusts (www.wildaboutgardens.org.uk).

Make your own compost and leafmould

CORRECT ACIDITY

If a pH test shows that your soil is very acid, add ground limestone (garden lime) to the plot in winter as the results recommend. However, don’t automatically add lime every year. Although most soils will tend to turn more acidic over time, some materials which you already add have a liming affect – wood ash, municipal green waste compost, mushroom compost and comfrey liquid, for example. I find that the pH of my soil stays pretty constant. ■ www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Mulch fruit trees and bushes with hay, straw, bark or shreddings

Don’t dig unnecessarily – but it is the best way to remove debris and compaction from a new plot

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Here a veg plot has some extra features, including a pond to encourage more insect life. The plot also has many other plants and ﬂowers and hedging, all helping to create a varied ecosystem.

A vegetable garden where you don’t just nurture crops but also wildlife has many beneﬁts, as Emma Rawlings explains

ncouraging wildlife into a fruit and of wildlife, some very small, that will work out veg plot might seem a bit of sight, feeding on the pests that do our like having a lion in a crops harm. With veg growing you chicken run, but have a choice of either creating “There is actually wildlife and crops environment with a a lot of wildlife, a sterile can be mutually beneficial. handful of crops and nothing some very Of course, there is some else, or an environment wildlife we veg gardeners that gives a home to many small, that will feel like erasing from the other creatures creating a work out of planet, especially when our thriving mini eco system. sight feeding on hard work is obliterated Both will attract pests, but over night. Slugs and snails the latter will be host to a the pests that are two good examples, multitude of creatures, some do our crops cabbage white butterflies of which will see crop pests harm.” another. However, there is a lot as food!

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An adult hoverﬂy

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WILDLIFE AREA

There are many useful creatures we can encourage onto our plots, including the ones below.

BEES

Honey bees are well known as good for the garden and pollinate our ﬂowering crops, but bumble bees can be even better pollinators. There are in fact around 270 different bee species in this country, including buff-tailed bumblebees and white tailed. Many are solitary species, others live in small colonies. Many live in holes in the ground or in wood or even walls.

PARASITIC WASPS

These are not like the wasps that buzz round you while you are having an al fresco meal. These are much smaller and don’t harm humans, but certainly do a lot of damage to many of our so called garden pests, including caterpillars, ants and aphids. There are thousands of species of parasitic wasp and some so small you can hardly see them. HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Plant yarrow, dill, marigolds, cosmos, lobelia.

HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Flowers and simple single blooms, not the double ones. Hang up good sized bundles of hollow stems and twigs tied together to provide homes for them, or buy purpose designed bee boxes.

LACEWINGS

Unmistakable for their pale green bodies and very lace-like wings. Their larvae in particular consume vast quantities of aphids. HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Small bug boxes with lots of small holes are ideal for lacewings. Also planting yarrow, dill, angelica, coriander, carrot flowers, cosmos, fennel and dandelion.

GROUND BEETLES

These are wonderful predators all gardeners should encourage. They are voracious eaters of slugs and snails so get my vote! There are many different species, but most like to hide away during the day and feed at night. HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Provide areas of logs piled up, leaf litter, or large piles of stones.

LADYBIRDS

One of the most popular predators we have in the garden, that feed on greenﬂy and blackﬂy and red spider mites. Apparently ladybird larvae can eat 5000 aphids, though how anyone knows this I have no idea. I have visions of a mini GoPro attached to a larvae! HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Bug hotels are good for creating overwintering sites. Also, plants such as yarrow, penstemon, tansy, fennel.

BUTTERFLIES & MOTHS Although the cabbage white butterﬂy is one of the most annoying pests for veg gardeners, most butterﬂies and moths can be encouraged into the garden and are great pollinators. They are also an important food source for other wildlife, such as birds, bats and hedgehogs, who eat caterpillars.

HOVERFLIES

Many people often confuse these with wasps as they have similar yellow and black colouring, but they are smaller and have a different hovering action with outstretched wings. They can be seen zipping around from flower to flower eating nectar and pollen. They don’t sting and should be actively encouraged in the garden. There are many species and their larvae eat vast number of aphids and other garden pests. HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Plant yarrow, dill, cosmos, poached egg plant (limnanthes), lemon balm, marigold, flowering carrot, parsnips.

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HOW TO ENCOURAGE: Lots of ﬂowers including buddleia, marjoram, lavender, evening primrose, sweet rocket and night scented stocks.

HELP HEDGEHOGS

Hedgehogs have long been known to be a friend of the gardener as they eat slugs, but also worms, earwigs, leatherjackets and caterpillars. They are in serious decline so it is good to encourage them into the veg garden. Place a hedgehog hibernacula – a box for overwintering in. If your plot is well-fenced, think about putting a hole in the bottom about 13cm x13cm (5inx5in) in diameter. ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 49

GET GROWING

WHY HAVE NETTLES?

UMBELLIFERAS

These are plants which have flower heads of little stalks off which more stalks project, then tiny flowers so you get masses of little blooms. These flowers are particularly attractive to some of our best pest predators, like lacewings and hoverflies. Good examples can be found on the veg patch, some of which we allow to flower. A prime example is dill. We harvest the seeds of these as well as use the leaves. Some veg with these flowers include carrot and parsnip, but we harvest them before they flower. I remember visiting Great Dixter garden in East Sussex and seeing some stunning yellow flowers – parsnip flowers – in the veg garden. Why not harvest all but a handful of parsnips and leave these in the ground and allow them to flower the following year? You could always save the seeds too if you feel you need more of a reason to let them flower.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds says nettles support at least 40 kinds of insects, including the nettle aphid, but these appear early in the season and help feed ladybirds, which will then increase in numbers and feed on your crop aphids! The insect life on nettles also encourages larger predators, such as hedgehogs, frogs and toads. Many butterflies like nettles as a place to lay eggs to provide food for their larvae.

PUT IN A POND

A pond can attract a wide range of creatures that devour garden pests. You don’t need a big pond, but it does need to have at least one sloping side or rocks or something inside to allow pond life or other creatures in and out of the water. One area that is at least 60-90cm (2-3ft) deep would be ideal too. Some allotment sites allow ponds, but with more young families enjoying allotments they are not always a good idea. If you have a pond in your garden and you have visiting children, then a strong metal grid literally just below the surface of the water is one safety measure you could take. Ponds attract all manner of creatures, including frogs, newts and toads, which will eat slugs among other things. Dragonflies and damselflies will take aphids and other crop pests that fly. Another option is a tray of water with pebbles inside and out, but change the water regularly. It just provides drinking water for all manner of creatures. Birds will use a bird bath for drinking and bathing in and some are useful predators. Blue tits will eat caterpillars and aphids so are definitely ones to encourage.

DES RES FOR TOADS

Create little areas of damp spaces. A couple of bricks covered in a slate or a broken terracotta pot on its side stuffed with some leaves could provide a damp spot for toads. Toads include slugs and snails in their diet so are to be encouraged.

AVOID CHEMICALS

Obviously if you are trying to encourage a wide range of wildlife onto your plot, then using pesticides might upset the balance. If you need to use controls then consider organic or biological controls. ■

Here are some suggestions of how you can do your bit for wildlife and aid your plot too.

■ A compost heap made of wood or pallets with gaps in the sides or one side open

■ Some ﬂowers interspersed with your crops, including yarrow and poached egg plant

■ A patch of nettles

■ Leaf mould bin made of wire or heaped behind a shed

■ A pottery – piles of pots stacked in a higgledy-piggledy way behind the shed will create a home for all sorts of wildlife

■ An area of long grass mown once a year (usually late summer) maybe dotted with a few wildﬂowers ■ A small pond or even a shallow dish of water with stones in and out for access ■ A pile of logs

50 | SEPTEMBER 2018

■ Bird feeders, especially those that hold a cup for mealworms to encourage birds that eat caterpillars and other bugs onto the plot ■ Herb garden containing dill, lavender, thyme and fennel

■ A few patches of ﬂowers among the veg, especially single ﬂowered types like poached egg plant, marigolds and monarda (bee balm) but there are many others

■ Weeds. A controversial one but a few weeds in the right place not too close to crops can provide food and cover for predators. Some weeds are not so good, for example shepherd’s purse is host to the disease white blister that affects brassicas (cabbage family) ■ Mark the end of a carrot or parsnip row with a circle of canes, label it with ‘Leave for lacewings’ and let them ﬂower the following year

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Green Gardener – The natural way to keep your garden free from pests 10% DISCOUNT on anything from

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Control slugs NATURALLY by applying Nemaslug Slug Killer, which contains natural nematodes, that are effective at controlling slugs, but unlike chemical controls, are safe for children, pets, birds and wildlife. The nematodes in Nemaslug® Slug Killer are found naturally in UK soil and have been approved for use in organic gardening by the Soil Association. Buy a 40 sqm pack for £12.95

CONTROL APHIDS BY RELEASING NATIVE LADYBIRDS

Green Gardener supplies NATIVE ready for release in your garden. Ladybirds are a welcome sight in the garden, where they happily munch away on greenﬂy & other tasty pests. By releasing ladybirds (as adults or larvae) in your garden you can boost their numbers and help nature help you control pests. Available now from £12.75

Zee No Weevil is a new granular product that is applied to the surface of your pots, containers and around the base of susceptible plants and shrubs to deter adult vine weevils from laying their eggs in your plants. Made from dried, crushed left-overs from making organic olive oil mixed with aromatic Mediterranean herbs, Zee No Weevil is attractive in appearance, fragrant, biodegradable, safe to use and is totally safe for pets and wildlife. Available in 3 litre bags for £9.99 including postage and packing, each bag will treat 1.2 sqm.

These re-usable Butterfly and Ladybird Kits allow children & adults to watch all stages of butterfly and ladybird development. We only use native British species, so the adult ladybirds / butterflies can then be released in your garden.

www.greengardener.co.uk

01493 750061

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Green Gardener, B12 Base Business Park, Rendlesham IP12 2TW

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 51

GET GROWING

most passionate plotter. If you love your We are launching our annual competition to ﬁnd our prizes. great p pictures and you could win some g e us a few p plot, just ﬁll in the form, send

A stylish Mountfield SP53 mower with a powerful 160cc Mountfield OHV engine and large diameter wheels for easy handling, this 51cm self-propelled mower is a real pleasure to use. Cutting height is easy to adjust within the 27-90mm range using an ergonomic single lever. A front skid plate helps to minimise scalping and improve the cut. The extra-deep deck is designed to maximise airflow for optimum cutting and collection performance. Clippings can be collected in the large 60-litre collector or you can choose to mulch, recycling grass clippings back into the ground using the mulching plug supplied. As well as benefiting from a two-year warranty this mower is supported by an aftersales help and advice website, phone line and national service network of garden machinery repair specialists.

Last year’s second place winner Frances Stearman from Twickenham

Two Wests & Elliott vouchers for the top three winners can be exchanged for products from the company’s extensive greenhouse and gardening catalogue. The listing is vast and includes everything you would ever want for a greenhouse, including watering kits, staging, propagators and lots more. If you don’t have a greenhouse the company also sells many items for the garden including furniture as well as fruit and veg cages, to name but a few.

The WOLF-Garten multi-change® 15cm push-pull weeder features a wavy, dual edge blade, enabling you to work both forwards and backwards below soil level, cutting through weeds at the root level while the side guards let you work close to plants without damaging them. It easily attaches to all multichange® handles including the lightweight ZMI15.

52 | SEPTEMBER 2018

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XXX

1ST PRIZE

VALUE

£921

■ Mountﬁeld 29 Mower worth £32 ■ Set of 3 Harrod Trumpet Wire Rust Obelisks value £242 ■ WOLF-Garten tools worth £250 ■ Two Wests & Elliott 100 vouchers value £1

2ND PRIZE

VALUE

£744

■ Mountﬁeld Mower worth £32 29 tive ■ Harrod Decorative steel Wall Trellis (and brackets) ball ﬁnials value £165.45 ■ WOLF-Garten tools worth £150 ■ Two Wests & Elliott £100 vouchers worth £

3RD PRIZE

F First place winner will receive a set of 3 Harrod Horticultural Trumpet Wire Rust Obelisks T (ARC-228) perfect for supporting larger climbers and shrubs with the distinctive trumpet shape making a real statement in the garden borders. Value £242

Third prize winner will receive a Harrod Vintage Round Wire Obelisk in natural rust, ideal for climbing plants and roses. Value £109

VALUE

£638

■ Mountﬁeld 29 Mower worth £32 e Round ■ Harrod Vintage Wire Obelisk in natural rust, ideal for climbing plants. Value £109 ■ WOLF-Garten tools worth £100 ■ Two Wests & Elliott vouchers worth £100

Second prize winner will receive a Harrod Decorative Wall Trellis (and brackets) constructed of solid 8mm steel rods with ball ﬁnials (ARC-403/404) value £165.45

MOUNTFIELD Mountfield has been one of the UK’s leading lawnmower manufacturers for more than 50 years and their lawnmowers, lawn tractors and garden care products all share a reputation for outstanding quality and reliability. The Mountfield team have maintained their position as a leading lawnmower manufacturer by continually developing their products, with investment and innovation ensuring that only the best combination of performance and value for money is offered. In recent years, best-selling garden tractors, lawn riders, roller mowers and a range of class leading 48-volt garden tools have been launched. The innovations have continued with new 80-volt cordless lawnmowers. www.mountfieldlawnmowers. co.uk

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HARROD HORTICULTURAL This company has been producing top quality garden products for 60 years and is innovative in bringing new designs on to the market. It offers an excellent mail order service and as well as being renowned for its sturdy fruit and vegetable cages and arches and structures it also sells a huge range of other gardening sundries. Tel 0333 400 1500 www.harrodhorticultural.com WOLF-GARTEN The WOLF-Garten gardening tool collection offers the total solution for soil and cultivation, lawn care, tree and shrub care and general garden maintenance. The WOLF-Garten philosophy is to provide gardening tools and machinery of premium quality and performance. Its garden tool range includes the

multi-change© system which is lightweight and comfortable to use, so whatever the job you are tackling in the garden, WOLF-Garten can provide the right tool for the job. www.wolfgarten-tools.co.uk tel 01869 363674 TWO WESTS & ELLIOTT This company was founded more than 30 years ago by Christopher and Josephine West, together with their ‘sleeping’ partner Elliott 1 (their faithful canine companion). The current mascot for the company is Elli, who appears in the catalogue. Two Wests & Elliott publishes three comprehensive gardening catalogues every year; early season, spring and summer and autumn. The company’s online site also features an even greater range of products and special offers. www.twowests.co.uk Tel 01246 451077

We are looking for the UK’s most passionate fruit and veggie grower and now veg plots are starting to look bountiful it is the perfect time to take some photographs and enter our competition. So if you love your plot then share it with us and other KG readers. Simply send us a few photos of your plot and you could win some great prizes and your plot will also be featured in a future issue of Kitchen Garden. SEND US: ■ One photograph of yourself, preferably taken on your plot. Others who help you on your plot can also be in the picture but please state who is pictured. ■ Six pictures of your plot. Aim for one overall shot and then some pictures of smaller sections of the plot or even just one crop. ■ The questionnaire (page 54) filled in or written separately on paper or an email. Pictures should be digital jpegs (they need to be fine quality, e.g. set your digital camera to minimum three megapixels before taking the pictures) or post photographs on photographic paper, not on normal printing paper (these cannot be returned). If sending digital pictures attach them separately as jpegs to an email or put on a disc. We have difficulty using pictures that are pasted direct on to a document. Also remember to include a document containing your answers to the questionnaire. The answers can be written direct on to the email if you wish. WHAT THE JUDGES ARE LOOKING FOR A passion for growing – so don’t worry if your plot is not perfect or pristine – but we are looking for a plot that’s well loved, with effort made to grow a good variety of crops and good use of the space. WHERE TO SEND ■ EMAIL TO: erawlings@mortons.co.uk ■ POST TO: Kitchen Garden Passionate Plotter Competition, Mortons Media Group, Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR ■ ONLINE: www.kitchengarden.co.uk ■ The closing date for the competition is September 28, 2018. Judging will commence after this date and the winners will be announced in the December issue. SEPTEMBER 2018 | 53

GET GROWING Name Address

5. How do you grow one particular named crop from sowing to harvest, e.g.: Choose a crop and give us a brief summary of how you grow it from start to ﬁnish with any tips you have.

Postcode Email address

6. Do you recycle materials and use them on your plot? If so can you give an example?

Daytime tel no Evening tel no Please answer the following questions. The more information you can give us the better, so if you prefer feel free to use a separate sheet of paper for your answers.

7. Have you tried any new varieties of vegetables or unusual veg that you like?

1. Do you tend your plot on your own, if not who helps you?

2. Do you have an allotment or veg plot in your garden (and approximate size)

3. How long have you been growing veg?

4. Do you grow any veg in containers? If so, what, and how have they been grown (compost, size of pot, feeding, how successful and will you do it again?)

8. If you could invite one famous person (dead or alive) to have a drink with you in your shed who would you choose and what would you talk about?

9. If your plot involves the whole family including young children how do you encourage the children to get involved in growing?

10. If you had a genie in a bottle what one gardening wish would you ask for?

11. Why are you passionate about your plot? ■ If children are featured in any pictures please write your name here to give permission for them to be featured in the magazine

Parent/grandparent/guardian (delete as appropriate). ■ Please add any further details on a separate sheet if you wish.

Please include your name and address. We do not publish full address details.

Send the above together with your photographs to:- Kitchen Garden Passionate Plotter Competition, Mortons Media Group, Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR or email your pictures and answers to erawlings@mortons.co.uk Photocopies of the above form are permitted. We regret that photographs cannot be returned.

54 | SEPTEMBER 2018

DATA: Protection of your personal data is important to Mortons. Your data will be stored securely and only be used for the purpose of processing and publishing the competition and notifying the winners. Data will then be destroyed.

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

WONKY VEG COMPETITION

It’s time to have a chuckle at your fruit and veg growing efforts. We are launching two competitions, one for adults and one for children. So why not take part? You could win a super hamper of gardening goodies – and for children some growing kits, Town & Country boots and gloves!

HOW TO ENTER 1 Send us a photograph of your wonky veg including your name, address and email address on the coupon on these pages. 2 The wonky veg does not have to have been grown this year. If you have a picture of misshapen produce that you’ve grown previously, you can still send us the picture. 3 We are looking for naturally occurring wonky/odd-shaped fruit or veg. Two or more veg entwined with each other can be sent in and classed as one entry. 4 We need high-res images so check that digital pictures are at least 400KB or larger.

WACKY PRODUCE/VEGGIE ART COMPETITIONS Simply ﬁll in the details below and return to: Emma Rawlings, Kitchen Garden, Mortons Media Group Ltd, PO Box 99, Horncastle, Lincolnshire LN9 6LZ. Closing date for entries: Friday, September 28, 2018

Name Age (if under 16) Address

Postcode Telephone Email Address

HOW TO ENTER 1 The competition is for under-16s only. 2 Use at least one fruit or vegetable in your artwork. More used will achieve a higher score. 3 Other materials can be used such as felt, paper, cocktail sticks, bits of material etc. but the fruit/s or vegetable/s should clearly be seen somewhere in the craft. 4 It can be a picture or it can be a threedimensional model using fruit or veg. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

5 If doing a famous character, please include the name of the character with your entry. 6 Adults will obviously need to help younger children, especially with cutting up of any fruit or veg. 7 Please take one close-up picture of just the artwork and then one picture of the child with their artwork. We would like to publish a picture of the winner as well as the artwork.

To enter: Attach your photograph, and once you have supplied your details, cut out and send this coupon to the address above and you will be entered into the competition. I want to receive news and offers from Kitchen Garden via: Email ❑

Post ❑

Phone ❑

SMS ❑

■ Sorry we cannot return photographs ■ For full terms and conditions please visit www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 55

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Take your salads to another level with these delectable dressings, courtesy of our resident chef, Anna Pettigrew

Perfect with a green salad!

E ■ 2 lemons, juice of ■ 4 tbsp honey ■ 100ml (3½ﬂ oz) extra virgin olive oil ■ 3 tbsp minced shallots ■ 1 tbsp minced fresh thyme

■ ½ tbsp minced fresh rosemary ■ 1 tbsp mint ■ 1 tbsp oregano ■ Salt and pepper to taste

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together lemon juice and honey. 2. Then add the olive oil and whisk again. 3. Add shallots, herbs, salt and pepper. 4. Whisk to combine. ➤

YOUTU B UR

This is a fabulously zingy dressing! And it uses lots of fragrant herbs from the garden too. It’s worth making a double batch, as it keeps well in the fridge.

O ON DE O VI

nel:

See more on our YouTube chan https://bit.ly/2m32m2N

CHANNEL

SEE THE

GET COOKING

Great with new potatoes! This is a lovely light and slightly tangy dressing, delicious with potato salad. Make it even lighter and omit the mayo and replace the dairy yogurt with plain soya yogurt.

■ 5 tbsp natural yogurt ■ 2 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise ■ 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar ■ 1 tbsp olive oil ■ 3 tbsp snipped chives ■ 1 tbsp tarragon, chopped ■ 1 tbsp oregano ■ Salt and pepper to taste 1. In a large bowl combine all ingredients and whisk until smooth. 2. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving. 3. The dressing will keep, refrigerated, for up to three days. 58 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Oil-free dressing of vibrant avocados and plenty of coriander. Makes a perfect condiment for a spicy Mexican salad.

■ 1 avocado, stone removed ■ 3 tbsp Greek yogurt ■ A handful of coriander leaves and stems

A taste of Italy comes through in this basil pesto dressing. Make the most of your herbs by whizzing them up and serving it on a salad.

■ 1 small clove of garlic ■ ½ tsp salt ■ 1 lime, juice of ■ 75-100ml (2½-3½ﬂ oz) cup water (more as needed to adjust consistency)

1. Pulse all ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth. 2. Add more water if it is too thick. 3. Season with extra salt if required.

Drizzle on a pasta salad

■ A large handful fresh basil leaves ■ 1 tbsp pine nuts ■ ½ lemon, juice and zest of ■ 3 tbsp olive oil ■ 1 garlic clove ■ ½ tsp salt ■ Freshly ground black pepper 1. For the pesto dressing, blend the basil, pine nuts, oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic and salt in a food processor. 2. Blend until smooth, then season with pepper and extra salt if needed.

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEASONAL RECIPES

This dressing has a lovely savoury quality to it, thanks to the tahini.

■ 2 garlic cloves, minced ■ 2 tbsp Dijon mustard ■ 3 tbsp tahini paste ■ 2 tbsp water ■ 2 tbsp honey ■ 1 lemon, juice of ■ Sea salt, to taste ■ Freshly ground black pepper, to taste ■ 70ml (2½ﬂ oz) water ■ Parsley for garnish

1. To make the dressing, add all of the ingredients, along with the water, into a jar. Place a tightly ﬁtting lid onto the jar and shake vigorously. 2. Alternatively, the dressing can be made in a high-speed blender. 3. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Next, remove the lid from the jar and check the consistency. If the dressing is too thick, then add a bit more water and shake again. 5. The dressing will keep for a few days in the refrigerator.

Fragrant juicy oranges bring this dressing to life and are balanced perfectly by the balsamic vinegar. Delicious served with a pear and rocket salad.

Yummy with a rice salad www.kitchengarden.co.uk

■ 6 tbsp walnut oil ■ 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar ■ 1 tbsp pure maple syrup ■ 1 orange, juice of ■ 1 clove garlic, minced ■ Salt and pepper to taste 1. To make the dressing, add all of the ingredients to a jar. 2. Place a tightly ﬁtting lid onto the jar and shake vigorously. 3. The dressing will keep for a few days in the refrigerator. ■ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 59

60 | SEPTEMBER 2018

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

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Picture: Centre for Alternative Technology

ne motivator for a lot of kitchen gardeners is the opportunity to grow healthy food for a frugal outlay. Local food is fresh food – and it doesn’t get any more local than what you’ve grown in your back garden or allotment! How much you spend on getting to harvest depends on the time and resources available to you. Arguably the more time you have, the greater the chances to be resourceful and cut costs. One area that’s an easy win is seed saving – and the benefits go far beyond the financial.

WHY BOTHER?

Picture: TinyTall

Cut your seed bill by saving your own seeds. It isn’t difﬁcult and by being selective you’ll even create plants ideally suited to your plot, as Benedict Vanheems explains

Beans are very easy to save from year to year

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Aside from saving a few bob, seed you’ve saved yourself helps to maintain a living heritage. Just think of all the history encapsulated within heritage varieties; their unique characters and flavours passed on from one generation to the next through garden-saved seed. By joining this long tradition, we can do our bit to keep it available for future gardeners. Another advantage to saving seed is that, over the years, you can begin to subtly evolve varieties. Let’s say you only select seeds from the biggest or best plants. It stands to reason that the seeds of those plants will in turn grow to exhibit some of the superior qualities of their parent. Continue that favourable bias season after season and you’re essentially selecting a strain of that variety perfectly adapted to your growing conditions – a super strain ideally suited to your location! Then, of course, there’s the simple satisfaction of saving at least a few of your own seeds. Add to this your own compost or batches of liquid feed made from a clump of garden-grown comfrey and you are doing more to close the loop on your gardening, becoming ever more self-reliant. ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 61

Picture: David Owen

GET GROWING

Parsnip ﬂowers contribute a beauty worth the space they occupy

Lettuces make a fuss-free seed-saving option

Picture: Harry Rose

Biennials such as Swiss chard ﬂower and set seed in their second year

EASY SAVERS

Seed-saving of some vegetables is so straightforward it’s a wonder we aren’t all at it. Self-pollinating annual vegetables including beans, peas, tomatoes, chillies, peppers and lettuce, are the ones to begin with. Simply allow a few plants to flower, set seed, then, once ready, collect the seed for drying and storage. It’s something my grandad did year after year, leaving a few runner beans to reach crisp-dry maturity before cracking open the pods for their shiny cache. Simple, no fuss and deeply satisfying! Lettuces and other leafy salads like rocket readily yield their seeds, but don’t be tempted to harvest from the first plants to flower, or bolt. Seed taken from plants that readily bloom are likely to yield offspring with the same habit. It’s not something you want when growing for food. Better instead to wait for a few late flowerers to set seed, thereby actively selecting for slow-tobolt characteristics. In every case, collect seed from your bestperforming plants. This is natural selection in fast forward and the secret behind steady, incremental improvements to what you grow.

VEGETABLE

THE IMPORTANT BIT: F1 HYBRID VS OPEN-POLLINATED Carrot seed head ready for drying indoors

SECOND COMING

Of course, some of the vegetables we grow for food aren’t annuals, even though they are harvested within one year. Carrots, parsnips, celery, alliums such as leeks and onions, Swiss chard and most brassicas are among those producing seed in their second year. To collect seed from these biennials you’ll need to keep a few plants over winter to explode into flower the following spring. Again, be selective in what you KEEP IT REAL Some vegetables are pretty promiscuous, crossoverwinter. pollinating left and right with nearby varieties of Plants should readily flower soon after the same family to produce offspring that aren’t the warmth returns, though the seed that anything like the original parent. The squash follows can sometimes take a while to mature, family is especially prone to a horticultural occupying valuable space in the meantime. equivalent of Wife Swap, so saving seed from But look on the bright side; the likes of pumpkin, cucumber or courgette, beneficial bugs such as requires tactical thinking. bees and hoverflies The secret is isolation to stop will relish the bonus “In every pollen from one variety reaching blooms and there’s case, collect another. Squashes, pumpkins and every chance the courgettes cross with each other, patiently awaited seed from while cucumbers cross with other seed heads will your bestcucumbers. On that basis, grow just reward you with performing one of each type in your garden – an enough seeds for a arguably unreliable option in dense couple of seasons. plants” city gardens – or take steps to isolate individual blooms to pollinate by hand.

SEEDS ARE READY WHEN

Tomatoes, chillies, peppers

Fruits fully ripe

Lettuce

Seed heads are ﬂuffy

Beans, peas

Pods dry and crispy

Beetroot, chard, carrot

Seeds come away

Onions, leeks

Seed heads start to open

Squash, pumpkin

Fruits fully ripe

Courgette

Grown to full marrow size

Cucumber

Fruits turn yellow

62 | SEPTEMBER 2018

One of the reasons F1 hybrids cost more is that producing their seed requires two separate parent plant varieties, which must be crossed in a controlled environment, usually by hand. To produce the same F1 hybrids at home you’d need access to the same parent plants and to perform the same cross in the same way. For this reason, only ever save the seeds of traditional, openpollinated varieties.

Dry seeds somewhere with good airﬂow Picture: k_hargrav www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEED SAVING

HOW TO SAVE TOMATO SEEDS

Peering at the stigma of a female squash ﬂower

STEP 1 Scrape or squeeze out the pulp and seeds from a ripe tomato into a glass or jam jar. Add water and, if you’re saving different varieties, add a label to avoid confusion later on.

STEP 2 Cover the jar with a paper towel then leave to ferment. Swirl the jar daily. Fermenting helps to break down the gel while reducing bacterial and fungal impurities.

STEP 3 Fermenting takes two to ﬁve days. Seeds are ready once they have sunk to the bottom. The surface of the mixture may have developed a thin layer of scum.

STEP 4 Remove most of the liquid then tip the seeds into a sieve. Rinse under water using a wooden spoon to gently agitate the seeds to detach any remaining material.

STEP 5 Tap out the seeds onto a paper towel and spread out to draw off the moisture. Transfer to a non-stick plate to continue drying, again spreading the seeds out.

STEP 6 Keep in a warm place out of direct sunlight. It takes about a fortnight for the seeds to completely dry. Once dried, pack them into labelled paper envelopes for storing.

Flowers for seeds are a welcome boost for pollinators such as bees

Select fat, just-about-to-open flower buds the evening before you plan to pollinate. You want at least one male and one female flower, the latter identified by the slight swelling of the embryonic fruit behind it. Seal your flowers with an elastic band to stop them opening. The next day, unseal the flowers then pick off the male flowers and peel back the petals. Gently dab the pollen of the male flower onto the stigma at the centre of the female flower then seal shut once more. Keep it isolated from bees carrying unwanted pollen. Loosely tie a collar of string or wool onto the stem behind the flower, so you’ll know which fruit to collect the seed from.

COLLECT AND SAVE

It’s obvious when most seeds are ready for collection. Seed heads and seedpods dry out and turn straw-brown, while most fruiting plants, like tomatoes, peppers and squash, are ready at the same time they’re ready for eating (though green peppers should have ripened to their final colour). There are some exceptions: cucumber should turn yellow, while aubergines should be ripe to the point of dropping off the plant naturally. Sweetcorn kernels will have turned hard, long after their edible stage. The aim of the game after collecting and washing seeds (where appropriate) is drying them. The more moisture driven out of a seed, the longer it will store and the less the risk of it turning mouldy. Finish drying seeds off indoors, by spreading them out to maximise the airflow around them. Sieves or muslin sheets are useful for this. Seeds are fully dried when papery to the touch or when they rattle within their pods. Large seeds like squash will be brittle, so they snap rather than bend. If you’re unsure, err on the side of caution and leave to dry a few days longer. Once ready, crack open pods or shake out seeds. ➤ www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Pumpkin seeds are ready as the fruits are harvested for eating

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 63

GET GROWING STASH YOUR SEEDS

Picture: Justin Leonard

Seeds should be cleaned before storing. Carefully pick out larger pieces of chaff then sieve or winnow the seeds to remove smaller pieces. Winnowing – when you blow across the seeds to separate the chaff – takes practice. Start with very gentle blows and pick up speed gradually so you don’t inadvertently end up blowing both seeds and chaff everywhere! Store cleaned seeds in paper envelopes labelled with the variety and date. Store them somewhere dry, dark and cool (10C/50F is the ideal), where the temperature doesn’t fluctuate too much. A proper seed tin, complete with a few sachets of silica gel or muslin bags filled with uncooked Winnowing: proceed with caution! rice, will help to absorb any moisture that remains to keep seeds viable for longer. Some seeds store for several “Store years given optimal cleaned seeds conditions, though in paper the germination rates decrease with time. envelopes If you’re new to labelled with saving seeds, don’t the variety sweat it. Start with the easy-to-save stalwarts and date” and work up from there. Your home-grown seeds will be a credit to you, reflecting your unique garden and taking you Store clean, dry seeds in labelled envelopes a step further to true self-sufficiency. ■

Picture: Centre for Alternative Technology

64 | SEPTEMBER 2018

VEGETABLE

YEARS

Beans and peas

Beetroot

Brassicas (eg. broccoli, cabbage, turnip)

3-4

Carrot

Celery and celeriac

Courgette

Cucumber

Leek

Lettuce and endive

Onion

Parsnip

Peppers and chillies

Radish

Spinach

Squash and pumpkin

Sweetcorn

Swiss chard

Tomato and aubergine

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 65

GET GROWING

KG’s Olivia Peace chats to top gardening bloggers from the worldwide web. This month she meets Louise Houghton, who has been blogging since 2015

ouise is a stay-at-home mum to her two not-so-little boys. She’s learning Welsh, she’s 50 this year and she has been using her blogging platform as a place to document the progress of turning a jungle into her paradise.

Tools of the trade

WHAT MADE YOU DOCUMENT YOUR GARDENING? I had dabbled in blogging previously, but it was different with this blog. It became a way of documenting the progress of the garden from a jungle to what it is now, along with a visual record. Blogging was also a great way of connecting with other people who had gardens, smallholdings and interests similar to mine, so it brought me closer to the community.

66 | SEPTEMBER 2018

How long have you been gardening? I began gardening about seven months after we moved to Wales, which I suppose means I’ve worked on my little patch of paradise for just two years; although I definitely do consider myself a real novice and somebody who is constantly learning. When we first moved in, there was barely anything in order – we had to establish raised beds in the garden and my husband even built me a wonderful poly house. Once those issues were both sorted, I was away! I’d always wanted to make the effort to grow our own but until the move we didn’t have that luxury of space. When looking for a house, was garden space important to you? Yes, when we were house hunting, we were hoping to find a property with the potential for growing spaces and projects as we’re a busy family, we like to get stuck in. As it turns out, this garden was a real project, as so much needed clearing before we could even do anything, including about a dozen non-spreading bamboo bushes, but it was well worth all the hard work (mostly by my husband).

How important do you think it is to encourage younger people to start gardening? I do think it is important to, at least, get children outside. I am very aware with two sons of primary school age that screens can take over a bit – and in all our lives to a degree – but “make the best of the good weather” is something I say a lot. We get the kids involved with outdoor jobs and they do help at times with things like my spud campaign – my maincrop spuds are due to go in very soon so I’ll be asking for some help from them again this year. I also think gardening has health beneﬁts, especially for those with mental health issues, which are increasingly common in younger children these days. So if you start with the youngsters and can imbue in them even a small degree of interest in being outside, then they may come back to it later in life with their own families.

“Don’t worry how other people choose to work their little patch of paradise, just do your thing and above all enjoy it”

Is gardening a family-orientated activity in your house? Sort of, but I have to say I’m the main one involved with the growing. We joke in the house that there are pink and blue jobs; the latter tends to be the more hands-on outdoors, which my husband deals with, but I am deﬁnitely the keeper of the veg patch out of all of us and that suits the family!

What about you, has it given you any health beneﬁts? I feel great when I’ve been working outside, even though I tend to get a bit of backache at times – but being tired yet happy suits me – though I’m hoping a “no-dig approach” this year will go towards alleviating that a bit! On days when the weather is still good at about 6pm, I sometimes shun the washing-up and just feel I need to get outside. I go and do a bit more to “make the best of the good weather” and get just a few more seeds sown or a bit of garden prep done, squeezing the best out of the day. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

STAR BLOGGER Do you think there’s a What’s been the biggest WHAT’S THE BEST stigma about gardening? learning curve about THING THAT YOU’VE Personally I don’t gardening? Do GROWN YOURSELF? think there is a you have any selfI did have a few successes last stigma, but maybe a reflections? year, among them garlic, turnips, stereotype attached I think gardening can onions and cabbages. The cabbages to gardening. I think be such a personal I was surprised with, so I will it’s something that thing. You can follow definitely grow those again this people can consider rules set down by year! They were a variety for small to be a pastime of others when you first spaces called ‘Golden Acre’, so the older generation. start, which is what I were perfect for the raised bed However, the proof of did and still do in some outside the poly house. waiting lists for allotments cases. Essentially, I think and just how long people most people do things the are prepared to wait, goes way they have always been some way to prove that younger done, perhaps having been shown people and younger families want to have by parents or grandparents. Once you’ve that space to grow their own food. Education grown a few things you can experiment with is an excellent way of getting young families other less conventional ideas, or just make it and their children involved at school with up as you go along! gardening clubs and, as I said before, maybe In fact, a friend came to see me the other they will continue to enjoy it and pass it on to day and as we walked around showing her my their own children. sowing and growing I told her how I really was just winging it. I’m a very organised person by nature, but right now I’m trying new things like mixed-planting and I do also find myself thinking, “what the heck, I’ll give that a go”. If it doesn’t work then that’s fine, it’ll probably grow the next time, but I think just do what works for you – don’t worry how other people ■ Louise’s blog: http://welshdreams choose to work their little patch of paradise, nowreality.blogspot.co.uk/ just do your thing and ■ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ above all enjoy it. ■ LoobyHoughton

DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE RECIPE FROM WHAT YOU’VE GROWN IN YOUR GARDEN? This isn’t so much a recipe but just a yummy thing to eat. Turnips are normally thought of as a winter vegetable, something you put into a casserole or stew let’s say, but I love them sliced very thinly and lightly fried with garlic; my own of course. Or you could use wild garlic, which I’m also lucky enough to have in the garden after being gifted a clump by a friend!

Louise digging but she is going to try a no-dig method this year

An outdoor bathroom

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 67

GET GROWING

XXX

If you don’t give a ﬁg about ﬁgs, then perhaps you should. David Patch shows you how to grow this most delicious of fruit even in our cooler UK climate

Expect your ﬁg trees to produce fruit twice a year

igs are probably one of the earliest fruits to have been cultivated. There are traces of fig farms in Jordan from 9000BC. Like many fruit, they are originally from the area around Iran and Iraq. They were a favourite fruit of both the Greeks and the Romans, and the Romans imported them into Britain. However, when you think of figs, you probably imagine Mediterranean scenery, scorching sunshine and dry stony soils – a fruit for growing in a warmer climate than we in the UK have most summers. Or a taste of foreign holiday, much like that lemon liquor that tasted fantastic at the time but the bottle of duty-free now lurks at the back of the drinks cupboard. Not so. Figs have been grown in this country since 1552, when they were planted at Lambeth Palace by Cardinal Pole. There were commercial fig farms in the UK in the 1950s. While figs are seen as the preserve of stately homes with heated glasshouses, with a little care and attention it is possible for most gardeners to enjoy the delights of a home-grown fig.

SOIL AND SITE

Figs thrive in poor soils. They love a dry, chalky site in full sun, where the excellent drainage and lack of nutrients will promote the best fruiting. Give a fig a rich soil with plenty of organic matter and you will get huge amounts of luxuriant growth, but very little fruit. Even if you do not naturally have such soil in your garden, there are a couple of easy ways to recreate it. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

One-year-old plants

Two-year-old plants

DIRECT PLANTING

Probably the best known method is to create a pit. Dig a hole about 60cm (2ft) wide and deep. Line the sides with old paving slabs and place a thick layer of rubble or stones at the bottom. The idea isn’t to completely stop roots from escaping –

so a few gaps are fine – merely to impede the root system. Fine “Figs have fibrous roots which take up water and nutrients will been grown in be able to get through, this country since still but not the large tap roots 1552, when they which encourage growth. The good news is that, were planted at for once, a garden on very Lambeth Palace heavy clay can actually be an by Cardinal advantage – it will naturally restrict root development. The Pole” only issue is that drainage will probably be poor, so don’t skimp on the layer of rubble at the bottom of the planting hole.

GROWING IN A POT

Another way to keep growth under control is to grow in a pot. Figs make fantastic potted trees for a sunny patio, where the lush foliage is attractive in its own right. Use a soil-based compost such as John Innes No 3, and make sure you put plenty of crocks at the bottom. As with all containers, it’s a very good idea to use pot feet or half bricks to raise the pot, especially over winter. Most figs are hardy enough, but they will resent spending the winter months ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 69

GET GROWING with waterlogged roots. If you are growing in a container, feed with a high-potash fertiliser (such as tomato feed) over the summer months, and keep the compost just moist. While figs tolerate dry conditions, they will shed their fruit if they get too dry.

PRUNING

The best time to prune is in April, before growth has properly started. In the first couple of years the aim is to produce a nice open framework of branches. Clear out any growth in the centre of the plant, and don’t be afraid to cut back any long, leggy growth. Figs produce most of their fruit on one-year-old wood, so once a good structure is in place, simply prune to leave 20cm (8in) or so of last year’s growth – the tiny figlets will just be visible between the leaf nodes.

“Figs also enjoy the dry conditions at the base of a sunny wall, and so make an excellent choice for training as a fan”

Keep ﬁg trees under control by growing in a container

A tree that has been hard pruned in April

HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS: STEP 1: Take semi-ripe cuttings in late September. STEP 2: Cut a nice 12cm (4¾in) length of new growth, cutting just beneath a leaf node. Remove any leaves that are still on. STEP 3: Plant the cutting about 4cm (1½in) deep in a pot filled with a soil-based compost such as John Innes No 1. Firm the compost around the cutting and water in. No need to use a rooting hormone, figs root pretty easily. They do like a little warmth, so we place on heated mats in a greenhouse over the winter. A sunny kitchen windowsill will do just fine. STEP 4: Keep the compost barely moist over the winter. The cuttings should come into leaf the following spring. Don’t increase the watering until you can see new root growing at the base of the pot.

70 | SEPTEMBER 2018

4 www.kitchengarden.co.uk

FIGS

VARIETIES ■ ‘BROWN TURKEY’ – The most widely grown fig in the UK, and for good reason. One of the earliest to ripen, so produces a good crop even in a poor summer. Heavy crops of dark brown sweet fruit. ■ ‘WHITE MARSEILLE’ – The best green fig for the UK again. Early to ripen, produces large green fruit which are excellent. ■ ‘PETER'S HONEY’ – Probably the sweetest fig you can buy – each large green-yellow fruit is an absolute treat. The downside is that it does need a very warm site to do well, but is an excellent choice for growing in a greenhouse.

‘Brown Turkey’

‘Peter’s Honey’

TRAINING

Figs also enjoy the dry conditions at the base of a sunny wall, and so make an excellent choice for training as a fan. They will need some support, so best to put in some horizontal wires about 45cm (18in) apart. Fan training is pretty much as for plum trees, except for the timing. Tie in as many shoots as you can, remembering that pruning will encourage dormant buds to break and grow in the direction they are pointing. Once a fig has outgrown its position, select a couple of the oldest main stems and prune them back hard – this will encourage fresh productive growth.

CROPPING

Figs will naturally try and crop twice every year – one crop which develops and ripens over the summer to crop in early autumn, and another which overwinters and ripens over spring and early summer. In the UK our winters are too cold and long for this second crop to ever develop, and trying to do so only weakens the plant. In October it’s very important to remove all fruits which are larger than your little fingernail. Don’t be greedy, these fruit will never ripen and they will stop the following year’s summer crop from developing properly. ■

A traditional ﬁggy pudding

Add ﬁgs to a salad of feta cheese, rocket and nuts

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Figs are amazingly versatile. How about a fig and raspberry crumble, a spiced fig coffee and hazelnut cake, or a fig and blue cheese tart? Or simply add to salads or as a pizza topping. You could also make a figgy pudding, the traditional Christmas dessert made with figs.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 71

XXX Lupins, being a legume, are a good nitrogen-ďŹ xer

Looking for a natural way to improve the condition of your soil? Then grow some green manures, says Julie Moore

GET GROWING

s gardeners, we know that the success of our plot is directly related to the health of our soil. Soil is our most valuable asset and, as such, needs to be protected. The best way to protect and improve our soil is by keeping it covered with crops, whether it be an edible or green manure crop. Green manuring isn’t a new concept. The Ancient Greeks recognised the value of green manures but with the advent of the Second World War and the development of man-made chemicals and fertilisers to increase productivity, the use of green manures declined. Today, as we seek more natural ways of maintaining healthy soils and crops, green manures are once again back in vogue. Green manures are plants grown for the primary purpose of improving the soil. In addition to helping bulk up the soil with organic matter, green manures prevent erosion, suppress weeds, provide forage for animals, attract and provide nectar for pollinators, provide a habitat for predators such as slug-eating frogs, while creating and cycling soil-borne nutrients using the power of the sun. Think of them as a living mulch which can be easily incorporated into any crop rotation plan.

THE RHIZOSPHERE

Soil fertility is related to the health of the complex and interdependent web of soil organisms that form symbiotic relationships with plant roots,

The best way to protect the fertility of our treasured soil is to keep it covered by growing plants

converting once-living plants into nutrients soil (bio-drilling). The subsequent crop may easily taken up by plant roots. The area of most actually follow the rooting network mapped biological activity is the rhizosphere, the zone out by the green manure and along the way, immediately around the plant roots. Plants enjoy better nutrition and the company of soil release nutrients through their roots to feed microbes, courtesy of the green manure. the beneficial microbes and mycorrhizal fungi LEGUMES AND which in turn convert soil nutrients into forms NON-LEGUMES more readily available to plants. Imagine the Green manures can be categorised into two contribution of closely planted green manures types: legumes and non-legumes. Legumes are with deeper and more root mass than widely plants from the fabaceae family and include spaced edible crops. It’s easy to see why growing a beans, peas, clover and lupins. Legumes have the green manure crop is, in many ways, better than ability to increase the nitrogen content of the adding compost for fertility. soil so long as specific bacteria, rhizobia, In addition, some are present in the soil. These bacteria deep-rooted green manures “It’s best essentially form an association with have a natural talent to the nodules on the roots of the ‘drill’ into compacted to avoid legumes and ‘fix’ nitrogen. The mechanical extra nitrogen is made available tillage as it to future crops when the legumes are cut and dug into the soil. disrupts soil life Non-legumes include all the and breaks other green manures: grasses, up the soil” buckwheat, phacelia and crucifers such as mustard. They are generally very effective at preventing nitrate leaching, adding heaps of organic matter to the soil and suppressing weeds.

DIFFERENT OPTIONS

Smaller seeds are sown as you would grass seed by scattering them on a prepared bed, raking them in and tamping down the bed with the back of a rake to ensure good soil contact

74 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Depending on your gardening goals and time of year, you’ll have a variety of green manure options. As there is no one green manure that fits all situations, answering the following can help assess the best options for your plot. Firstly, you need to consider how you will work them into the soil. While farmers who use tractors make light work of cutting or turning under green manures, a home gardener armed with tools with wooden handles and possibly a few chickens will need a different set of green manures. Some green manures can become a problem if you don’t have the right tools for the job. Overwintered rye is excellent for reducing erosion and providing biomass, but it’s difficult to incorporate into the soil without a large rotavator. It’s best to avoid mechanical tillage as it disrupts soil life and breaks up the soil, which rather defeats the purpose of growing green manures. If you follow a ‘no dig’ regime, consider shallow-rooting green manures or ones that winterkill (grow well through autumn frosts and die if the ground freezes). www.kitchengarden.co.uk

XXX Secondly, determine your problems or needs. Do you need to increase nitrogen? Do you want to break up compacted soil? Is your soil harbouring pathogens or pests? Do you want to attract pollinators? Do you need copious amounts of biomass? Are you looking for a weed-free seed bed in spring? These questions will help guide you in the right direction. Thirdly, determine where, when and for how long you’ll be using your green manure crop. Factor in your soil type too – just like edible crops, green manures also have their preferences. If you have a short window between harvesting one crop and planting the next, sow a fast-growing interim manure such as buckwheat or phacelia. When you harvest an autumn crop, sow an overwinter green manure to provide you with a weed-free bed come spring – that’s something every gardener can get excited about! It’s possible to grow a food crop and green manure at the same time. Beneath tall growing crops with a small footprint such as runner beans, try undersowing with a low-growing manure such as white clover or perennial ryegrass. In an orchard or border area never planted with edible crops, consider sowing permanent green manures. Sowing mixed flowering species, either perennials such as clovers or annuals such as crucifers that reseed themselves will protect the soil, support pollinators and encourage insect diversity. Lastly, incorporate green manures into your crop rotation. They can be categorised into long and short-term manures. Long-term manures help to restore poor soil fertility and structure and are the perfect choice if you have inherited some new land which is overrun with weeds. Where land is to be left fallow for a long period of time, growing a green manure will help to build up the soil fertility so that the land can be cultivated again.

Cut the manure just above the soil after ﬂowering, leaving the cut tops and stubs as a surface mulch

Alternatively, loosen the soil and pull the plants out by the roots, layering them on a bed as mulch

RESTORING FERTILITY

leave nitrogen in the soil which the brassicas Having recently inherited a vegetable plot need to produce healthy leaves – yellow leaves that was abused with chemical fertilisers and which drop off is a tell-tale sign of a shortage herbicides for more than a decade and is now of nitrogen. Legumes follow roots as these are sadly totally devoid of any soil life or structure, generally heavy feeders that usually like plenty I didn’t have enough home-made compost to of organic matter while legumes prefer less cover the whole growing area. My solution is fertile soil. to sacrifice crops this season and start to restore A word of warning, never sow a green soil fertility by sowing green manures. I’ll cut manure before or after a vegetable crop of the them down before they flower and then again at same family as the green manure could act as a the end of the season after flowering. The roots bridge to spread disease and pests. For example, and mulch will kick-start the long process of growing a brassica green manure such as mustard regenerating the soil. before a brassica crop will increase the risk of the Short-term manures can be grown when there soil-borne disease clubroot. is a short gap between harvesting one crop and As one of the aims of using green manure planting the next or whenever there is no crop in is to achieve 100% groundcover, maximum the ground, for example, over winter, germination is a priority. It’s therefore instead of leaving the soil bare. important to pay as much attention In general, brassicas usually to seed bed preparation as you follow legumes as legumes would for any edible crop. “A word of Smaller seeds are sown warning, never as you would grass seed sow a green by scattering them on a manure before or prepared bed, raking them and tamping the bed after a vegetable in with the back of a rake to crop of the ensure good soil contact. For larger seeds, take out same family” drills, sow thickly and cover with soil. Water occasionally if there is no rain.

FEEDING THE SOIL

The ﬂowers of phacelia are an excellent source of pollen for predatory insects www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Now the green manure is growing, how do you kill it so that it can decompose to feed your soil? A green manure in the vegetative stage, i.e. non-flowering, usually regrows after being cut. Most green manures in the reproductive stage, i.e. flowering, will die if cut. A complete ‘no dig’ strategy would be to cut the manure just above the soil after flowering and transplant edible crops through the severed tops, leaving the cut tops and stubs as a surface mulch. For smaller areas, use a hand sickle for cutting. Alternatively, loosen the soil and pull the plants out by the roots, layering them on a bed as mulch. If you have a bunch of marauding chickens, they’ll happily till in the green manure for you. ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 75

GET GROWING Many varieties will set seed and can become weed issues, so it’s important to cut them before they have a chance to go to seed. Another consideration is that some green manures, such as forage rye, have the ability to chemically inhibit or kill seeds in the soil by manufacturing and exuding organic chemicals from their roots into the soil that are toxic to seeds. While killing weed seeds is a definite bonus, saving a lot of time and effort pulling up weeds later in the season, it may be detrimental to the next edible crop, hindering seed germination. In general, smaller-seeded crops such as lettuce are affected more than larger seeds. A sufficient gap of around 30 days should be left before planting the next crop.

AUTUMN SOWINGS

As autumn sets in, plots become increasingly bare as crops are harvested. If you don’t have any

winter crops lined up, why not give your soil some TLC? Now is the perfect time to sow an overwinter green manure such as field beans or peas or winter tares. These crops will reduce soil erosion and nutrient loss. Given that you’ve worked hard to maintain your soil during the season, don’t let the wind blow it away or the rain wash it off. By competing against weeds during any warm spell, come spring, you’ll have a weed-free bed and a surface mulch. With their extensive root systems, field beans also have the additional benefit of helping to break up heavier soils. Don’t wait! Start using green manures to reduce your workload and increase the health of your soil this autumn. These crops can really save you money by decreasing fertiliser costs and increasing yields with very little extra effort on your part. No matter what size of plot you have, green manures should definitely be part of your crop rotation plan. ■

Now is the perfect time to sow an overwinter green manure such as ﬁeld beans or peas

GREEN MANURE

PLANT TYPE

SOIL TYPE

WHEN TO SOW

TIME BEFORE CUTTING

KEY BENEFITS

Alfalfa

Legume

Prefers dry soils. Avoid wet or acidic soils.

Apr – Jul

2 to 3 months or can be left to over-winter

Member of the pea family. Excellent nitrogen-ﬁxer, deep roots break up soil. Ideal long-term manure.

Buckwheat

Polygonaceae

Thrives in poor soils and drought conditions.

May – Aug

2 to 3 months

Very quick growing, this cereal will bring plenty of organic matter to your plot. Flowers are very attractive to pollinators.

Clover, Crimson

Legume

Prefers sandy or loam soil.

Apr – Sep

3 to 18 months

Fast-growing bulky manure. Ideal for suppressing weeds and excellent nitrogen-ﬁxer. Flowers are a good source of pollen for predatory insects.

Clover, Sweet

Legume

Thrives on hard, compacted soils. Drought resistant.

Mar – May Aug – Sep

Up to 2 years

Ideal long-term manure. Vigorous root system draws up minerals and penetrates heavy soil. Abundance of leafy foliage provides plenty of organic matter.

Clover, White

Legume

Silt, loam and clay soils.

Mar – Aug

6 months up to 5 years

Excellent long-term manure. Low growing so can be undersown beneath a crop.

Fenugreek

Legume

Well drained but slightly heavier soils.

Mar – Aug

2 to 3 months

Quick growing. Produces plenty of organic matter.

Field Beans

Legume

Especially suited to heavier clay soils.

Sep – Nov

Over-winter

Roots penetrate and break up heavier soils. Good nitrogen-ﬁxer.

Fodder Radish

Brassica

All types.

May – Aug

2 to 6 months or over-winter

Produces lots of foliage which improves soil structure, water retaining capacity and fertility. Long tap roots draw up nutrients from the soil.

Forage Pea

Legume

Most soil types

Sep – Nov

3 to 6 months

Good over-wintering manure that prevents nutrient leaching. Good nitrogenﬁxer.

Forage Rye

Cereal

Particularly suited to clay soils, but suits most soil types.

Aug – Nov

3 to 6 months

Good choice for over-wintering if you have a large rotavator to incorporate into soil. Dense foliage provides excellent ground cover thus preventing nutrient leaching. Extensive root system helps increase soil pore size and improves drainage.

Italian Ryegrass

Grass

Most

Mar – Apr and Aug – Sep

2 months to 2 years

Excellent long-term manure as it lifts nitrates in the soil and releases them slowly. Fits into any bed in a crop rotation plan. Can be undersown beneath tall-growing crops.

Lupins

Legume

Light, sandy, acidic soils.

Mar – Jul

2 to 4 months

Long tap roots help to break up the soil. If left to ﬂower, provides a pollen source for predatory insects. Good nitrogen-ﬁxer. Increases calcium carbonate content of the soil.

Mustard

Brassica

Most

Mar – Sep

1 to 2 months

Fast growing, provides plenty of organic matter which helps to improve soil structure and water-retaining properties. As the leaves are edible, they can be used as a crop too.

Phacelia

Borage

Most

Mar – Sep

1 to 3 months

Very bushy plant which suppresses weeds. The pretty ﬂowers are an excellent pollen source for predatory insects. Provides plenty of organic matter. Helps to increases phosphorus and potassium content of soil and improve soil structure.

Winter Tares (Vetch)

Legume

Prefers heavier soils. Avoid dry or acidic soils.

Mar – May Jul – Sep

2 to 3 months or over-winter

Good over-winter choice that helps prevents nutrient leaching. Foliage suppresses weeds. Good nitrogen-ﬁxer.

Yellow Trefoil

Legume

Light, dry soils.

Mar – Aug

3 to 12 months

Low growing, perfect choice for undersowing among taller crops. Excellent at suppressing weeds. Good nitrogen-ﬁxer.

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 77

GET GROWING

In this extract from her new book, chef Jessica Elliott Dennison shows us how simple dishes using seasonal ingredients can be both delicious and inspiring

ssemble was the word that kept coming to mind when writing my book: the idea of taking a few good ingredients and tumbling them onto a big sharing platter, without the worry of complicated techniques or hard-to-find ingredients. This is my relaxed approach to connecting over food, which I’ve combined with realistic guidance on how you can quickly build interesting flavours and textures in your everyday cooking.

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In developing my recipes, I’ve tried to strike a balance between attainable and simple, and inspiring and informative. Throughout, I’ve considered my friends who don’t work in the food industry, who might not be as confident in the kitchen, or living on the doorstep of London’s food markets and specialist stockists. In fact, it was those friends who kindly tested these recipes, out in rural Scotland and Australia, where the climate and food landscape differ from where I cook in my small London kitchen.

Vegetables feature heavily in my recipes. It’s not that I don’t enjoy meat or fish, I really do. But I find vegetables, especially when enjoyed in season, are most inspiring to eat and cook with. Plus, I’d rather treat meat and fish as a smaller element or garnish, as that way I can afford to buy the tastiest, very best quality from a supplier I trust. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEASONAL DISHES

20 MINUTES / SERVES 4 Often I’ll ﬁnely shred a few spring onions to add a subtle fresh note to a salad without overpowering it. But here, spring onions take centre stage, as once charred whole they go sweet and juicy. The red pepper dressing is rich, smoky and velvety, with just the right amount of punch coming in from the splash of vinegar. I’ll quite happily eat it with some crusty bread while dreaming of holidays in Spain. Here, the dressing goes beautifully with chewy farro grains and buttery Manchego.

❯ 200g (7oz) quick-cook farro ❯ 2 bay leaves (optional) ❯ 85g (3oz) flaked almonds ❯ 2 bunches (300g/10½oz) spring onions (scallions) ❯ 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a drizzle ❯ 1 x 480g (17oz) jar roasted red (bell) peppers, drained ❯ 1 teaspoon tomato purée ❯ ½ garlic clove ❯ 75g (2½oz) Manchego ❯ 2 teaspoons smoked paprika ❯ ½ teaspoon red wine vinegar ❯ Pinch of sea salt flakes ❯ Small bunch (20g/¾oz) flat-leaf parsley, leaves only ❯ 100g (3½oz) wild rocket (arugula)

10 MINUTES / SERVES 4 This is great to make on those days between Christmas and New Year when there’s still cheese, nuts and fruit lingering about and you’re looking for something other than crackers. I’ve used strong blue Stilton, but any cheese will do. Have a play with the fruit and nuts too; just as long as you have something sharp and sweet to contrast with the cheese and bitter leaves, you’re onto a winner.

❯ 100g (3½oz) walnuts ❯ 1 small radicchio ❯ 2 white chicory (endive) heads ❯ 2 ﬁrm pears ❯ Juice of 1 lemon ❯ 2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ❯ 100g (3½oz) Stilton ❯ 1 serving rye croutons (see end)

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1. Bring a medium pan of water to the boil then cook the farro and bay leaves, if using, for the time stated on the packet (around 10-12 minutes). Drain thoroughly, but don’t rinse under cold water, then put in a large mixing bowl (discard the bay). 2. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a large frying pan (skillet) over a high heat for 1-2 minutes, stirring regularly until golden, then transfer to a plate to cool. Keep the heat on high. 3. Wash the spring onions, remove any tired-looking outer layers and trim away 2cm (¾in) from the green tops. Rub the oil into the onions then cook in the hot pan with the lid on for 3 minutes until charred and blackened on one

1. Toast the walnuts in a large frying pan (skillet) for 2-3 minutes over a high heat to release their natural oils (be careful not to burn them). Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool. 2. Wash the radicchio and chicory under cold water then pat dry (this will freshen and crispen the leaves). Cut away the base from each head, and then pick away the individual leaves onto a large platter; tear some and leave a few smaller ones whole. TO ASSEMBLE Slice the pears lengthwise, creating some thick and thinner slivers (discard the core) then place over the leaves. Immediately squeeze over the lemon juice, discarding any pips (this prevents the pears from turning brown). Drizzle over the oil, crumble on the cheese, then scatter with the rye croutons. Crush the walnuts then scatter over to ﬁnish. Using your hands, gently toss everything together then serve/eat immediately.

side. Remove the lid, then, using tongs, turn the onions over and cook for a further 2–3 minutes with the lid back on. (Covering the pan means the onions will steam, making them go sweet and soft.) Transfer the onions to a plate and cover with the lid to continue steaming and keep them warm. 4. Add 250g (9oz) of the peppers to a food processor along with the tomato purée, garlic, 15g (½oz) of Manchego, paprika, vinegar, salt and 20g (¾oz) of the toasted almonds. Blend with a few splashes of water or a drizzle of oil until you get a pourable dressing consistency. 5. Finely slice the remaining peppers, roughly chop the parsley and slice half the cooked onions into

2cm (¾in) lengths. Wash the rocket in a basin of cold water (this will freshen and crispen the leaves) and pat dry. TO ASSEMBLE Stir most of the dressing through the warm farro then carefully stir in the sliced peppers, parsley, sliced onions and rocket. Spoon onto a platter and top with the remaining almonds, onions and dressing. Finely grate or, using a speed peeler, shave over the remaining Manchego to ﬁnish. SUBSTITUTES Spring onions: baby leeks or halved regular leeks, asparagus Quick-cook farro: regular farro, spelt, pearl barley, freekeh, brown rice Manchego: pecorino, Parmesan

SUBSTITUTES Radicchio: red chicory (endive), frisée, rocket (arugula) Pear: dried sour cherries, ‘Granny Smith’ apple, persimmon, blackberries Walnuts: almonds, hazelnuts, pecans RYE CROUTONS Taking a few moments to crumble some slices of rye bread into a hot frying pan is worth doing for the crisp and chewy, almost waxytextured bites you end up with. 1. Take 3 slices (250g/9oz) pumpernickel rye bread 2. Crumble the rye bread into large crumbs then toast in a dry frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat for 4–5 minutes until crisp, toasted and chewy. 3. Once cool, store in the freezer for up to 3 weeks. ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 79

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20 MINUTES / SERVES 4 This one is a favourite midweek supper at our place. Quickly pickling the cabbage is a vibrant way to pack in some greens, while the soba noodles are nutty yet comforting. Here, I’ve topped them with a perfectly cooked soft-boiled egg and toasted sesame seeds. I enjoy the bobbled, almost waxy texture of Cavolo Nero leaves, but have a play with any variety of cabbage or dark leafy greens to suit whichever season you’re cooking in.

❯ 80ml (2¾fl oz) rice or white wine vinegar ❯ 2 tablespoons sugar (ideally white) ❯ 2 teaspoons fish sauce ❯ 200g (7oz) Cavolo Nero ❯ 4 eggs ❯ 200g (7oz) soba noodles ❯ 45g (1½oz) sesame seeds ❯ 2 large carrots ❯ 4 spring onions (scallions), finely shredded ❯ 20g (¾oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated ❯ 60ml (2fl oz) toasted sesame oil ❯ ½ teaspoon chilli flakes (optional)

1. First, ﬁll a medium pan with water and bring to the boil. In a medium bowl, stir together the vinegar, sugar and ﬁsh sauce, until the sugar is mostly dissolved. Slice the Cavolo Nero lengthwise into ribbons 1cm (½in) wide (discard the tough inner core) then, using your hands, scrunch into the vinegar mix. Set aside to lightly pickle. 2. Carefully add the eggs to the pan of boiling water. Simmer on medium for 6 minutes then remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl of cold water to stop them cooking any further. (If you gently crack the base of the eggs just before you add to the cold water, they will be easier to peel.) 3. Next, add the noodles to the pan of water and cook 80 | SEPTEMBER 2018

over a high heat for the time stated on the packet (around 5 minutes). Refresh under cold water, drain thoroughly and place in a large mixing bowl. 4. Toast the sesame seeds in a small frying pan (skillet) over a high heat for 1-2 minutes until golden and you can smell the natural oils being released. Transfer to a plate to cool. 5. Top, tail and peel the carrots then, using a speed peeler, shave ribbon lengths. TO ASSEMBLE Add the carrots, spring onions and ginger to the noodles, along with the sesame oil and pickled cabbage (including 1 tablespoon of the pickling juice).

Tip in most of the sesame seeds and toss until evenly coated. Check the seasoning; you may want to add a splash or two more of the pickling juice. Divide between 4 bowls. Peel the eggs then halve lengthwise and place on top of the noodles. Splash each egg yolk with some of the pickling juice, and scatter over the remaining sesame seeds and chilli ﬂakes, if using. SUBSTITUTES Soba noodles: egg noodles, vermicelli noodles Cavolo Nero: savoy cabbage, spring greens Fish sauce: soy sauce ■

EXTRACTED FROM SALAD FEASTS: How to Assemble the

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READER OFFERS

PRESERVE AND SAVE The Nutridry ST-10 Stainless Steel Dehydrator is the new ﬂagship model from UK Juicers. It’s constructed entirely from stainless steel, making it durable, hygienic and very easy to clean. The Nutridry features a 24-hour countdown timer and accurate temperature control over a wide range, and is one of the quietest dehydrators on the market. It has 1.4m2 (15ft2) of drying area over 10 trays, which are removable so you can create more space for larger items. It comes with a ﬁve-year warranty. The Nutridry normally costs £349, but you can claim a 20% discount on the Nutridry and its accessories by quoting code ‘KGND’ at the checkout at www.ukjuicers.com/nutridry Offer valid until August 30, 2018.

BESPOKE BERRY SUPPORTS ORTS Get set for a bumper autumn raspberry crop with bespoke supports from Harrod Horticultural. Designed after consultation with the RHS, the Autumn Raspberry Support creates the ideal spacing and conﬁguration of posts and wires. The frame is high-quality galvanised steel, and the wires are high-strength, galvanised multi-strand steel cable. There’s also the Vintage Autumn Raspberry Frame, which is crafted from solid steel rods, with sphere ﬁnials for a traditional look, in a choice of natural rust or matt black. Both products have a 10-year framework guarantee. Save 10% on the Harrod Autumn Raspberry Support (GDN-864/GDN-865) or the Harrod Vintage Autumn Raspberry Frame (GDA-434/GDA-435) by quoting code ‘ETADKGAR’ at the checkout at www.harrodhorticultural.com Offer valid until August 31, 2018.

GRE AT PRO DUC TS AT SUP ER VAL UE PRIC ES!

SUMMER SEED SAVINGS Don’t forget to sow now for tasty late summer and autumn vegetables! The Dobies catalogue includes a host of varieties perfect for summer sowing, including spinach Rubino F1, an excellent round-leaved, mid-green variety with distinctive bright red stems and leaf veins, a buttery tenderness and a mild, sweet ﬂavour. Ideal for use as baby leaves, it’s mildew-resistant and frost-tolerant. Check out the full range on offer, including 65 new seed varieties for 2018, the Rob Smith range, and an expanded selection of varieties for smaller gardens, at www.dobies.co.uk Save 10% on all Dobies seeds (excluding the £1.99 p&p charge) by quoting code ‘KG918’ 18 when you order from www.dobies.co.uk Offer valid until August 30, 2018.

GROWING RANGE Haxnicks is the brand behind a host of wellknown gardening products, including Rootrainers, Easy Tunnels, the SpeedHoe, and the shatterproof plastic Victorian Bell Cloche. Its extensive range encompasses propagation equipment, plant protection, pots and planters, plant supports, composting equipment, gardening accessories and tools. New products this year include the ingenious Water Saucer, which works with a capillary wick to give you a self-watering system, the SpeedWeed, which puts paid to pernicious perennials, Tomato Tubes, for individual protection of outdoor plants, the Self-Watering Tower Garden, and Oxford Fabric Planters in a choice of three sizes. KG readers can claim a 10% discount on any order from Haxnicks by quoting code ‘HXKG1018’ at the checkout at www.haxnicks.co.uk Offer valid until October 31, 2018.

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 81

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O ON DE O VI

CHANNEL

SEE THE

YOUTU B UR

It is a common misconception that to grow watercress you need your own babbling brook at the bottom of the garden. Not so, says KG editor Steve Ott

atercress (Nasturtium officinale) is commonly found growing in and alongside slow-moving streams and rivers, particularly overlying chalk, and has long been produced commercially in beds which mimic this.

Watercress is a great crop to grow in small spaces

Hampshire has traditionally been supermarket shelf all associated with growing the crop year round, yet it is so commercially and freshly-cut stems easy to grow at home were transported by and can be treated just rail on the famous Watercress like any other salad leaf Line daily from Alresford to or microgreen. Eating watercress regularly London, before the advent as part of a balanced diet SOWING of supermarket pillow packs is said to help reduce Seeds are freely and cool storage, which could the risk of cataracts and available from a keep the leaves fresher for degenerative diseases such number of seed longer. However, it is also as Alzheimer’s. companies. You may be grown in several other offered the selection ‘Aqua’ southern counties and this is the one I’ve been of the UK on growing this year. I prefer to use a a large scale. deeper type of tray or a half pot for watercress, Watercress remains to give sufficient volume of compost for the one of our most hungry, vigorous roots and so the plants don’t popular salad leaves, ‘run out of steam’ too early. both for its distinctive Simply sow thinly on to any good seed peppery taste and the great range of nutrients or multi-purpose compost and cover lightly and vitamins it contains, with more compost or vermiculite, and water well. If sowing very early in the season, place including vitamins K, C, in a heated propagator set to 13C (55F) and A, B6, iron, manganese, water well. The seedlings usually emerge calcium and many more. within about 10 days and are tiny. Once In fact, it was once popular most are through remove the propagator as a snack food to eat on the go and lid and check watering each day, spraying was nicknamed ‘poor man’s bread’. Now over as necessary. it can be found among the salads on any www.kitchengarden.co.uk

XXX

WATCH OUT FOR As a brassica, watercress may suffer from some of the same pests and diseases as other cabbage-family members and should not, for example, be grown in soil where club root may be present. However, the most likely problem is greenfly, which will occasionally infest the young shoots. Wash them off or rub them away with your fingers. Flea beetle may also be a nuisance outdoors and these can be reduced by covering the crop with a barrier mesh. Watercress is not just delicious in salads Alternatively, dust the crop and sandwiches; it makes a delicious with powdered dry soil. soup, is great blitzed into a home-made The tiny seedlings are mayonnaise, or mixed into pasta prone to damping off disease dishes or even mashed potato, (the seedlings rot at the to give some additional base of the stem and topple flavour and nutritional over). This can be reduced by oomph! watering in the morning or from the base where growing in pots, or by spraying the seedlings occasionally with weak chamomile tea.

SUPPLIERS Mr Fothergill’s: www.mr-fothergills.co.uk T&M: www.thompson-morgan.co.uk Dobies: www.dobies.co.uk Suttons: www.suttons.co.uk Marshalls: www.marshalls-seeds.co.uk

GROWING ON

Once the little seedlings are well established, they can simply be kept on a windowsill or in a frost-free, but unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, to grow on. You can also sow direct into the open ground from March to August and indeed it is best to either sow outdoors from June to August or to grow in pots outside to keep the plants cool. They will tend to bolt (run to seed) if temperatures get too high undercover. Once this happens the plants become too hot and peppery for most tastes. Sow 1cm (½in) deep in short rows in moist soil in a shady spot. Sowing every three weeks or so indoors or out ensures a regular supply of leaves for cutting for much of the year. Watercress is of course an ideal subject for hydroponic growing (growing in a soilless medium, fed with nutrient-rich water). However, it is not recommended that you harvest watercress from the wild, due to the risks posed by soil-borne diseases and parasites. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Development of the little seedlings may seem slow at first, but once they get going they grow rapidly. Their natural habit is to trail, rooting as they go, but shoots can be harvested as soon as they are long enough, leaving a short length of stem and some leaves behind to regrow. Although it doesn’t need running water to grow, being a semi-aquatic plant, watercress does need regular watering and does not like to wilt; so check your plants every day when the weather is warm. Plants do produce a mass of roots and will soon fill the compost. You may find therefore that they need some feeding to keep the You’d be forgiven for being confused by shoots coming the Latin name for watercress, Nasturtium and provide you officinale. While both watercress and with the three or the pretty, edible summer-flowering four cuts you can climber commonly known as nasturtium expect from each (Tropaeolum majus) share both name and sowing. A tomato peppery flavour, they are very different food is ideal and plants. However, both are members should be given of the very large brassica every seven to 10 days (or cabbage) family. to maintain growth.

HARVESTING

Pinch or snip off shoots as required

Simply snip shoots from the plants as required with sharp scissors, leaving behind some stem from which new shoots will arise. Although it will store in a polythene food bag in the fridge for a few days, especially if sprinkled with a little water, it is best harvested as required. All parts of the plant, including the flowers and seed pods, are edible. Growth becomes fierier and a little bitter with age and is best eaten young. ■ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 83

WHAT TO BUY BRASSICAS FROM CORNWALL 

Established in 1924, this company specialises in growing old-fashioned, traditional varieties in a time-honoured way. Whereas brassica plants are generally grown in modules under glass or in polytunnels as hybrid varieties, these are bare-rooted, heritage varieties pulled from the ﬁeld. Bare-rooted plants are grown and pulled at a larger size when a good root system has been able to develop. Consequently they transplant well and will soon ﬂourish. PRICE: from £2.50 (for 12 plants) www.cornishcabbageplants.com TEL: 01579 321048

GARDEN STORE

OUR ROUNDUP OF THE LATEST PRODUCTS AND SERVICES FOR KITCHEN GARDENERS NATURAL MINERAL MAGIC  There are 17 recognised minerals and trace elements required for healthy soil. Scotland sourced, 100% natural, award winning, organically approved REMIN volcanic rock dust contains them all. It has plenty of uses: add as a soil top dressing; mix through/ sprinkle on the surface of your compost in your tubs and pots and add as a tonic to your compost heap or wormery.

 MUSIC TO YOUR SHEARS

Why not plant some music in your garden with KS Diggit, a Bluetooth speaker with a removable stake which can be pushed into the ground? It has 2 x dualopposing 5W drivers to deliver a 360-degree listening experience and eight hours' play time. It is also water, dust and sand resistant. It has an LED light ring so it is visible in the dark and built-in track controls allow volume and track change remotely. PRICE: £39.99 www.kitsound.co.uk

PRICE GUIDE: £7.50 (10kg) www.reminscotland.com TEL: 01330 820914

 MINI-TILLER WITH PETROL POWER

Cobra’s T24C mini-tiller takes the strain out of turning over the soil. It is ideal for smaller areas and tight spaces as it has a 10in width and is equipped with a powerful 43cc Cobra 2-stroke engine. To aid portability, it weighs just 16.2kg and has retractable transport wheels. Manoeuvrability when in operation is eased with a variable speed control and enhanced comfort controls. PRICE: £169.99 www.cobragarden.co.uk TEL: 0115 964 5915

84 | SEPTEMBER 2018

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GARDEN STORE XXX CORDLESS TRIO 

The Mantis cordless range includes a lawnmower, hedge trimmer and blower. The new cordless 40v lawnmower weighs only 20.4kg and features four double ball-bearing wheels for easy movement and a mulching kit. The 40v hedge-trimmer weighs just 3kg, gives 80-minute usage with 180-degree swivel and is ﬁtted with thoughtful safety devices. The 40v blower eliminates sweeping or raking by virtue of variable speeds and ergonomic design with anti-slip coating and balanced weight. PRICE: FROM £89.99 www.mantis.uk.com TEL: 0800 988 4828

 LADIES’ ANKLE BOOTS

These RHS endorsed ankle boots are 100% waterproof, fully lined with 4mm neoprene for ﬂexibility and a breathable air mesh lining. They also come with a high-traction outsole and a pull-tab to enable easy putting on and pulling off. Each boot has a decorative panel with a choice of four designs: fruits, vegetables, ﬂowers or gardening tools. PRICE: £75 www.muckbootcompany.co.uk TEL: 0800 587 0509

THE EASY INDOOR GARDEN 

The Plantpak Hydro-pod Indoor Garden allows you to grow herbs, vegetables and ﬂowers quickly and with minimum effort. It has two self-watering chambers which automatically water the plants and it automatically pumps feed into the sterile growing media, so no soil and therefore no mess. The Plantpak Hydro-pod also reduces growing times compared with conventional methods. The premium version comes with an LED Grow Light for all-year-round growing. PRICE: £39.99, £69.99 (WITH GROW LIGHT) www.crest-garden.com TEL: 028 877 21009

 HEDGEHOG FEED

The Brambles Pet and Wildlife company formulates foods that are nutritionally beneficial to wild animals. These products do not contain any added sugar, colours, or artificial flavours, or other ingredients that are potentially dangerous to hedgehogs in particular. The range includes Crunchy Hedgehog Food and Meaty Hedgehog Food. Available from pet shops, garden centres and some on-line retailers. PRICE GUIDE: From £4.99 http://bramblespaw.co.uk

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 85

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MATERIALS

A cold frame is a perfect place to raise small plants or to grow larger plants that extend the growing season outdoors, so why not make your own? Joyce Russell shows you how

good halfway home to harden plants off between a greenhouse and outdoor beds, this tidy frame is easy to make and is a great aid for any gardener. The clear sides and roof allow maximum light to reach plants. The posts keep the structure firmly anchored down, even in a strong wind, and the closing system is a simple and elegant way to use low-tech materials.

86 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Scale the dimensions up to make a larger frame. You will need to add in some extra fixing points and a cross-piece to support the lid if you make one that is twice the size. Polycarbonate will last for many years, so choose the best place for the frame before you get started. It isn’t impossible to lever posts out of the ground without putting strain on the structure, but you don’t want to have to move it too often.

■ Timber 20mm x 50mm roof batten: ■ 2 x 1050mm for top frame ■ 2 x 480mm for top frame side pieces ■ 2 x 1000mm for kickboards ■ 2 x 500mm for side kickboards ■ 1 x 80mm for support blocks ■ 2 x 50mm x 600mm fence posts – cut longer posts to length ■ 2 x 50mm x 750mm fence posts ■ 1 x 1050mm x 2000mm twin wall polycarbonate sheet ■ 20 x 4mm x 22mm screws plus washers ■ 4 x 4mm x 35mm screws ■ 12 x 5mm x 60mm screws ■ 8 x 5mm x 80mm screws ■ 5 cable ties ■ 4 large galvanised fencing staples ■ 2 x 900mm thin bamboo cane or dowel (to ﬁt through staples) TOOLS: tape measure, hammer, screwdriver, drill, 4mm and 5mm drill bits, straight edge (can use length of batten), marker, Stanley knife, lump hammer.

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WEEKEND PROJECT

STEP BY STEP STEP 1: CUT POLYCARBONATE Use a straight edge and Stanley knife. Support the polycarbonate sheet on a ﬂat piece of timber. Cut to the following sizes: ■ 1 x 300mm x 1050mm, lid back section ■ 1 x 270mm x 1050mm, lid front section ■ 1 x 400mm x 1000mm, front ■ 1 x 530mm x 1000mm, back ■ 2 x 500mm (width) x 550mm (back edge) x 400 (front edge), sloping sides

STEP 2: ASSEMBLE FRONT PANEL Lay the 400mm x 1000mm piece of polycarbonate between the two 600mm fence posts. Make sure all is square. Use the 5mm bit to drill a clearance hole 20mm in from each end of a 1000mm kickboard. Use 5mm x 60mm screws through these holes to hold the kickboard across the bottom of the polycarbonate and ﬁx into the fence posts. Drill through the polycarbonate and use a 4mm x 22mm screw plus washer to secure at the top of each post. STEP 3: COMPLETE FRONT AND BACK PANELS Repeat Step 2, using 750mm fence posts and 530mm x 1000 polycarbonate to assemble the back panel. Use the 4mm drill bit to make a hole through the polycarbonate at the midpoint of the kickboards. Use 4mm x 22mm screws plus washers to secure the polycarbonate. Tighten screws gently so they don’t crush the polycarbonate.

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE TOP FRAME Use the 5mm bit to drill two clearance holes at each end of the 1050mm battens. These holes go 12mm and 36mm in from each end of the 20mm sides. Use 5mm x 80mm screws through these holes to fix into the 480mm side pieces and assemble the top frame. Make sure the frame is square and that the screws run straight. STEP 6: FIT BLOCKS Cut the 80mm pieces of timber lengthways to make two 25mm x 80mm blocks (or use any scrap timber of this size). Use 4mm x 35mm screws to fix a block at the midpoint of each of the 1050mm battens. Position so an edge is 20mm in from the outer edges of the frame. These are on the underside of the frame when fitted. STEP 7: CUT SLOTS FOR STAPLES Make a slot at each end of the front lid section cut at Step 1. Mark two points: 120mm in from each end, one at 13mm in from the edge and one at 33mm from the edge. Use the 5mm bit to drill a hole at each of these points. Cut between the holes with the Stanley knife to make a neat slot at each end of the lid section. Repeat with the back lid section. ➤

STEP 4: KNOCK IN POSTS Position the back panel where you want it to go. Use a lump hammer to knock posts into the ground. Alternate from one side to the other to ease both down at the same time. Hold a side kickboard at each end to measure the position of the front panel. Knock posts in place. Make sure all is square.

5 Grow extra early potatoes in buckets

6 www.kitchengarden.co.uk

7 SEPTEMBER 2018 | 87

GET GROWING

STEP 8: MAKE LID HINGE Use the 5mm drill bit to make five holes along the opposite edges to where slots are cut in both front and back lid sections. These go 8mm in from the long edge. Position one hole 5mm from each end and space the remaining three evenly (31mm apart). Use cable ties between holes to hold the two sections together. Leave just enough slack to allow the lid to fold. Cut off excess on ties. STEP 9: FIX STAPLES Place the lid on the top frame and support on a firm surface. Make sure all is square and where you want it to be. Use a hammer to knock a fencing staple into position through each slot. Only knock the staple until it holds firm and allow enough room for a cane to slide through. You can use a 2mm drill bit if needed to make guide holes for staples. STEP 10: FIT TOP FRAME Position the top frame so corners sit at the centre of each fence post. Use one 5mm x 60mm screw at each corner to hold the frame in place. Position screws at 50mm from the end of the batten and centred across the width. This avoids colliding with other screws. Use a screw and washer to fix through the polycarbonate and into the blocks fitted at Step 6.

STEP 11: FIT SIDES Fix side pieces of polycarbonate in place with 5mm x 60mm screws through the 500mm kickboards. Drill and fit 4mm x 22m screws with washers to hold the polycarbonate to the top of each post (as in Step 2). STEP 12: FIT CANES Choose thin canes and cut to 90mm length. Ends can be pared a little, or sanded so they aren’t too tight a fit. Slide one end through a staple and push it further so the opposite end slides back into the second staple. This means you don’t have to slide the whole length of the cane through. The canes hold the lid firmly in position. Remove the front cane to fold the flap back to a half-open position.

USING THE COLD FRAME

■ Twin wall polycarbonate provides some insulation, but it is easy to line the inside of the frame with bubble wrap for use in cold weather. Use canes to hold this in place at the corners. ■ The frame makes a perfect place for raising small plants and for hardening them off before planting out. The lid can be opened half way for ventilation, or removed altogether: plants still have the protection of the walls at this point and can be covered at night as needed. ■ Grow extra early potatoes inside the frame in buckets. These can be lifted out when conditions suit, or the lid can be opened for them to grow on. ■ Sow salad, carrots etc. directly into the soil if the frame sits on a garden bed. ■ 88 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Line the inside with bubblewrap to provide insulation

Harden off small plants

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(AGM is the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Under RHS garden trials these varieties performed particularly well)

WHAT TO BUY | OFFERS

READER OFFERS EXCLUSIVE SAVINGS TO HELP MAKE YOUR MONEY GO FURTHER

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ALSO IN THE KG SHOP THIS MONTH SPRING GREENS PLANT COLLECTION

WINTER GREENS COLLECTION This winter greens plant collection will ensure you have a tasty and delicious selection of vegetables to harvest from autumn through to the next spring. The collection includes varieties chosen for their flavour and reliability. In total there are 40 plants, 10 each of the following: cabbage ‘Tundra F1’ (AGM), cauliflower ‘Amsterdam F1’, kale ‘Reflex F1’ and h’. sprouting broccoli ‘Rudolph Despatch from mid-August..

WORTH

£13.90

SAVE £8.95

These carefully chosen brassicas will bring variety and a host of different flavours to your table. The collection contains 20 plants, five each of the following varieties: ■ CABBAGE ‘ADVANTAGE’ – An excellent variety for spring greens and medium-sized hearted spring and summer cabbages. More winter hardy and less prone to bursting. September planting and will keep well into May. ■ CABBAGE ‘SPRING HERO’ – Is the first and only ball-headed spring cabbage. The large, heavy heads of ‘Spring Hero’ stand for weeks. Harvest April-May.

*JUST PAY £5.95 p&p

■ SPROUTING BROCCOLI ‘CLARET F1’ – A vigorous and high-yielding modern hybrid, which is ready in March-May, producing masses of thick spears simply packed with ﬂavour. ‘Claret’ is good enough to serve alone steamed with lashings of butter, just like an extra-early asparagus! Harvest March-May.

CABBAGE COLLECTION SAVE

£3

This carefully selected collection will keep the kitchen stocked with tasty hearts for up to nine months of the year. The collection contains 20 plants, five each of the following varieties: ■ ‘TUNDRA F1’ (AGM) – Will stand defiantly in good condition from October right through to April. Tundra has large, solid, crisp cabbage heads which are full of flavour. ■ ‘TRAVIATA F1’ (AGM) – A first-rate savoy cabbage, it is also really hardy and disease-resistant. Produces solid, dark heads that are full of flavour and goodness. Can be cut from October through to the following February.

90 | SEPTEMBER 2018

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■ CAULIFLOWER ‘AALSMEER’ (AGM) – Another very winter-hardy variety, standing throughout to yield a ﬁne crop of top-quality curds in early spring when there is often not much else in the garden. Harvest March-April. OFFER PRICE: Buy 1 collection for only £8.95. Buy 3 collections for only £17.90 – SAVE £8.95 Despatch from mid-September.

■ ‘MARABEL F1’ – An improvement on the much-loved ‘January King’ which combines vigour and the characteristic red-tinged, solid heads. ‘Marabel’ is full of old-fashioned January King ﬂavour. It is ready from November and can be cut until March. ■ ‘CAPRICORN F1’ – A versatile, pointed cabbage for harvesting from November through to March. ‘Capricorn’ has that lovely ‘spring cabbage’ sweetness and texture. We love it shredded raw into salads! OFFER PRICE: Buy 1 collection for only £8.45. Buy 2 collections for only £6.95 each – SAVE £3 Despatch from mid-August.

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SAVE

£3

CAULIFLOWER COLLECTION

Grow these four tip-top cauliflowers and you will be able to pick heads of superb quality, texture and flavour for much of the year! The collection contains 20 plants, five each of the following varieties: ■ ‘MOBY DICK F1’ (AGM) – Is the finest strain for cropping from September to December, when it produces large, pure white, dense heads which hold their quality until required for the kitchen. ■ ‘AMSTERDAM F1’ – We have found this excellent variety to have good cold tolerance and strong growth, providing tasty caulis for the kitchen from October to January.

WINTER LETTUCES A good range of tastes and textures to grow over winter to give fresh lettuce early next season. 20 lettuce plants, ﬁve each of the following varieties:

SAVE

£3

ORDER FORM Code

Offer

Price

40767

Spring Greens Plant Collection (20 Plants)

£8.95

■ ‘AALSMEER’ (AGM) – A winter-hardy variety, standing throughout to yield a ﬁne crop of top quality curds in early spring. An absolute delight from March to April.

51195

Spring Greens Plant Collection x3 (60 Plants)

£17.90

43215

Cabbage Plant Collection (20 Plants)

£8.45

■ ‘NORTH FORELAND F1’ – A hybrid cauliﬂower that matures through January and February and has good standing ability with exceptional winter hardiness.

43215

Cabbage Plant Collection x2 (40 Plants)

£13.90

42891

Cauliﬂower Plant Collection (20 Plants)

£8.45

OFFER PRICE: Buy 1 collection for only £8.45. Buy 2 for only £6.95 each – SAVE £3 Despatch from mid-August.

42891

Cauliﬂower Plant Collection x2 (40 Plants)

£13.90

40754

Winter Lettuce Plant Collection (20 plants)

£8.45

■ ‘WINTER GEM’ (COS) – This variety is perfect for an unheated greenhouse/spring harvest of sweet, crunchy heads. Plus, it has good disease resistance.

40754

Winter Lettuce Plant Collection x2 (40 plants)

£13.90

42974

FREE* Winter Greens Plant Collection x2 (40 Plants)

£5.95 p&p

KG18SEP

TOTAL £

■ ‘VALDOR’ (BUTTERHEAD) – One of tthe best winter-hardy lettuces. Solid heads of dark green, which can be cut in spring. o Protect outdoor plantings with ﬂeece. P ■ ‘WINTER DENSITY’ (COS) – Larger than ‘‘Little Gem’ and packs a pleasing ﬂavour. A splendid cos lettuce. ■ ‘NAVARA’ (BUTTERHEAD) – A shiny dark red oakleaf variety, the internal leaves are a rich green and resistant to lettuce leaf aphid and downy mildew.

Qty

Total

£5.95

I enclose my cheque payable to D T Brown OR please debit my Mastercard/Visa account (delete as applicable)

❑ Visa

❑ Mastercard

Name Address

OFFER PRICE: Buy 1 collection for only £8.45. Buy two collections for only £6.95 each – SAVE £3 Despatch from mid-September.

Postcode Telephone Email address

HOW TO ORDER Call the credit card and debit card order hotline on 0845 371 0532* (open 8am to 8pm weekdays and 9am to 5pm weekends). Only orders above £10 by phone please.

*calls cost 3p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Or send a cheque made payable to D T Brown Seeds to Kitchen Garden SEPTEMBER Offers (KG18SEP), D T Brown Seeds, Bury Road, Newmarket, CB8 7PQ.

Items will be despatched as described above. Offer subject to availability, only one FREE collection per household. D T Brown reserves the right to substitute with a product of equal or greater value. Please note that a £5.95 p&p charge will apply should you not take up the free item.

ORDERING ONLINE? VISIT WWW.KITCHENGARDENSHOP.CO.UK AND ENTER CODE KG18SEP WHEN PROMPTED TO RECEIVE YOUR READER DISCOUNT www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Please ﬁll in Card No below

Expiry date Security No

Signature Tick if you wish to receive further product information from D.T. Brown. Offers are subject to availability. ❑

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 91

WHAT TO BUY | GIVEAWAYS

GIVEAWAYS

TO ENTER OUR GIVEAWAYS SEE PAGE 103 OR VISIT THE KG WEBSITE

Fiskars, one of the leading garden tool brands in the UK, also creates homeware products that make your life easier and more efﬁcient – from plot to plate – leaving you more time to relax and enjoy the results. The new Fiskars PowerGear X Telescopic Tree Pruners have been developed to extend your cutting power to new heights. With an orange blade for improved visibility and a rotating cutting angle that can be adjusted up to 230 degrees, they make cutting up to 12 times easier than with

standard tools. You can trim overhead without needing a ladder, or at ground level without bending or kneeling. Our lucky winner will receive a mix of products from Fiskars’ garden, cookware and craft ranges, including the PowerGear X Telescopic Tree Pruner UPX86 (RRP £135.99), which has an adjustable shaft length and a maximum reach of 6m (20ft). They’ll also get a Functional Form+ Knife Block (£150), a stylish birchwood block complete with ﬁve high-quality stainless steel knives,

PRIZE PACKAGE TO GIVE AWAY

plus a pair of Fiskars’ General Purpose Scissors (£17), which have 21cm (8in)

stainless steel blades. Find out more at www.ﬁskars.co.uk We have one Fiskars prize package worth £302.99 to give away.

BUILD YOUR PROPERTY PLANS The London Homebuilding & Renovating Show returns to ExCeL from September 21 to 23. The event, sponsored by Checkatrade, a directory of recommended tradesmen, and Net House Prices, will provide advice and inspiration for anyone looking to create their dream home. Visitors will discover innovative products from more than 360

92 | SEPTEMBER 2018

specialist brands. There will be over 45 free seminars and masterclasses, plus 750 advice sessions. On the Saturday, Charlie Luxton, sustainable architectural designer and presenter of Channel 4’s Best Laid Plans, and Julia Kendell, interior design expert for BBC’s DIY SOS The Build and ITV’s 60 Minute Makeover, will be offering free consultations. Visitors can talk to specialists in the Ask the Expert area and watch Tricks of the Trade demonstrations. The show’s app will guide visitors through their day and share exclusive offers. Tickets are £12 in advance or £18 on the door (under-16s go free). For more details, visit www. homebuildingshow. co.uk/london or call the ticket hotline on 0871 231 0824.

PAIRS OF TICKETS TO GIVE AWAY We have 25 pairs of tickets, worth £36 per pair, to give away. www.kitchengarden.co.uk

WHAT TO BUY | TRUGS

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Make life easier come harvesting time by investing in a trug. You may be surprised ur individual at the variety out there, with different ones available to suit your preferences – here are some the KG team tried out this month m

GARDEN HARVEST BASKET

YOUTU B UR

This perforated garden harvest basket is made from polypropylene and is available in four-litre and 15-litre sizes. The legs can be folded when harvesting and extended for storage inside. It has a neutral base with lime-coloured folding feet and handles.

This is a versatile, capacious basket. Lik Like a large colander, produce can be washed ﬁrst before bringing it indoors. We liked the extendable legs for indoor storage. The baskets can also be stacked on top of each other for further storage.

HARROD HORTICULTURAL www.harrodhorticultural.com TEL: 0333 400 1500 PRODUCT CODE: GT-651 and GT-652 PRICE: £12.95 (15L) £8.95 (4L)

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

94 | SEPTEMBER 2018

O ON DE O VI

CHANNEL

SEE THE

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

TRIED & TESTED

KEW ANTIQUE WASH WICKER TRUG BASKET

GARDENER’S TRUG

CHILDREN’S WOODEN TRUG

Made from natural willow with an antique wash ﬁnish, this can be used for collecting cut ﬂowers, fruit and veg. Two sizes available.

This light, single-handled trug is made of durable plastic and can be used for weeds or prunings as well as harvesting a range of fruit and veg and cut ﬂowers.

THE BASKET COMPANY www.thebasketcompany.com TEL: 01202 422600 PRODUCT CODE: BWG002-S PRICE: FROM £18

TWO WESTS & ELLIOTT www.twowests.co.uk TEL: 01246 451077 PRODUCT CODE: SPGTR PRICE: £8.49

BURGON & BALL www.burgonandball.com TEL: 0114 233 8262 PRODUCT CODE: N/A PRICE: £10.99

BEST FOR CUT FLOWERS This is a sturdy but lightweight trug, suitable for cut ﬂowers in particular but also suitable for light harvesting of a range of fruit and veg.

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

At the less expensive end of the market, what you see is what you get – a durable, perfectly practical trug. Light and of a good size to accommodate a range of fruit and veg.

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

This smaller trug is suitable for light harvesting. It is made from hand-made strips of shaped FSC populus wood, held in place by solid brass pins and screws.

Something for the children to help you come harvesting time, or for lighter harvesting more generally. Ideal for soft fruit and small veg such as carrots, radishes and courgettes.

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 95

WHAT TO BUY | TRUGS

TUB TRUGS (SET)

This set of four colourful recycled tub trugs made of tough but ﬂexible polythene can be used for a variety of purposes, including harvesting. 26-litre capacity. THE ORGANIC GARDEN CATALOGUE www.organiccatalogue.com TEL: 0844 967 0330 PRODUCT CODE: TUTC PRICE: £29.95

We liked the versatility of these – harvesting yes, but can also be used for weeding or carrying small tools. Particularly good for larger fruit and veg or harvesting in quantity.

Quality Effectiveness y Value for money

96 | SEPTEMBER 2018

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

COTSWOLD GARDEN TRUG

This small, mango wood trug comes with deep sides and a strong leather handle, suited to light harvesting and smaller cut ﬂowers. Lightweight and easy to carry. GARDEN DIVAS www.gardendivas.co.uk TEL: 01462 421836 PRODUCT CODE: N/A PRICE: £18.95

This garden trug has been handmade in a traditional way from sustainable wood sources and is available with a natural ﬁnish. THOMAS SMITH www.sussextrugs.com TEL: 01323 871 640 PRODUCT CODE: N/A PRICE: FROM £48

We liked the rustic design of this one and its simplicity. A good product for small ﬂower cuttings, soft fruit and smaller veg. Useful too for garden accessories such as twine, scissors and secateurs.

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

SOUTH DOWN CONTEMPORARY GARDEN TRUG

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

BEST TRADITIONAL TRUG These have a lovely rustic look and are beautifully made. Suitable for a range of fruit, veg and cut ﬂowers.

Quality Effectiveness Value for money

★★★★★ ★★★★★ ★★★★★

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

OUT & ABOUT

DIARY DATES VISIT A SHOW, TAKE A TOUR, ENROL ON A COURSE

PEAR DAY SEPTEMBER 16.

Brogdale Farm, Faversham, Kent. Celebrate more than 500 varieties of pear at Brogdale – fruit displays, orchard tours, meet the experts. 01795 536250 www.brogdalecollections.co.uk

DEVON CHILLI & CHOCOLATE FAIR SEPTEMBER 14-16.

RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Devon. Talk with chilli experts, buy plants and produce. 10am-5pm. 01805 624067 www.rhs.org.uk/ gardens/rosemoor

TERRIFIC TOMATOES SEPTEMBER 15. Knightshayes,

PLUM TREE PRUNING SEPTEMBER 7. Crown Nursery,

near Tiverton, Devon. Find out about the 140+ varieties of heritage tomatoes grown here – displays, tastings, tours. 11am-4pm. 01884 254665 www. nationaltrust.org.uk/knightshayes

Ufford, Suffolk. Learn how to tackle this seasonal task. 10am-noon. Book on 01394 460755 www.crown-nursery.co.uk

MALVERN AUTUMN SHOW SEPTEMBER 29-30. Three Counties Showground, Malvern, Worcestershire. Celebrate the best of the autumn harvest – stalls, displays (including giant veg exhibit), gardening advice, cookery workshops. 9am-6pm. 01684 584900 www.malvernautumn.co.uk

INTRODUCTION TO SEED SAVING SEPTEMBER 6. Ryton Organic Gardens,

For a full list of shows, festivals, events and courses this month please visit our website www. kitchengarden.co.uk and choose the Diary Dates category.

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Wolston Lane, near Coventry. Basic principles of saving vegetable seed, with experts from the Heritage Seed Library. 9.30am-1pm. Book on 02476 303517 www.gardenorganic.org.uk

PLEASENOTE P

We have made every eﬀort to ensure these details were correct at the time of going to press, but recommend you check with the organisers before travelling SEPTEMBER 2018 | 97

GET COOKING

Peaches, dill and fennel feature in this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s super servings, created by our very own queen of cuisine, Anna Pettigrew

SEASONAL RECIPES

My take on a peach Melba with pancakes. With tropical ﬂavours from the coconut yogurt and sweetened peaches, this dish is irresistible!

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes ■ 100g (3½oz) plain flour ■ 2 eggs ■ 300ml (10½fl oz) hemp or oat milk ■ ½ tsp vanilla extract ■ 2 fresh peaches ■ 400g (12oz) raspberries ■ 100ml (3½fl oz) maple syrup ■ Oil for frying ■ 8 tbsp coconut yogurt 1. Gently rub peaches under running water to remove the fuzz. Thinly slice the peaches, and cut in half. Combine the peach slices and maple syrup in a medium bowl. 2. Put the flour, eggs and hemp milk into a bowl or large jug, then whisk to a smooth batter. 3. Set a medium frying pan or crêpe pan over a medium heat and carefully wipe it with some oiled kitchen paper. When hot, cook your pancakes for one minute on each side until golden, keeping them warm in a low oven as you go. 4. To serve, layer two pancakes with peach-maple syrup. Then top them with coconut yogurt and more peaches and raspberries.

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

This is a quick route to get a gravlax-tasting sandwich without the two-day prep time of making proper gravlax!

Preparation time: 20 minutes DILL SAUCE: ■ 3 tbsp Dijon mustard ■ 1 tbsp honey ■ 1 tbsp cider vinegar ■ 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ■ 2-3 tbsp chopped fresh dill

BAGEL: ■ 3 bagels ■ ½ tub cream cheese ■ ½ cucumber, sliced ■ 250g (8oz) smoked salmon ■ 1 red onion, thinly sliced ■ 2 tsp capers

1. Start by combining the mustard, honey and vinegar in a small bowl. Whisk in oil and stir in dill. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2. Split the bagels in half horizontally. Spread cut sides with cream cheese. Next layer cucumber, smoked salmon, red onion, and capers. Finish with a generous drizzle of dill sauce. ➤ SEPTEMBER 2018 | 99

GET COOKING

Perfect summer sarnie!

A lovely sweet treat of juicy peaches and crumbly pastry topping, it’s sure to please the family!

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 35 minutes ■ 3 peaches, sliced ■ 100g (3½oz) cherries, de-stoned and halved ■ 200g (7oz) golden granulated sugar ■ 100g (3½oz) butter or spread ■ 200g (7oz) plain flour ■ 1 tsp baking powder ■ Pinch of salt ■ 1 large egg ■ 1 tsp vanilla extract 1. Preheat oven to 180C/fan160C/gas mark 5. Grease a medium-size baking dish. 2. In a large bowl, using an electric handmixer, beat the sugar and softened butter together until combined. Add the flour, baking powder, salt and mix in. Next add the egg and vanilla. Continue to beat and mix together until just combined. 3. Using a spatula, carefully spread the topping over the fruit, trying to spread out as evenly as you can and covering most of the peaches. It can be a bit fiddly with the sticky dough, but persevere and you’ll be fine. 4. Bake for 35 minutes or until the topping is golden and the fruit is bubbling. 100 | SEPTEMBER 2018

Fresh dill and cucumber “ribbons”, marinated in a little lemon and olive oil and served on hummus toast – a perfect seasonal summer sandwich.

Preparation time: 20 minutes ■ 2 slices of granary bread ■ 3 tbsp hummus ■ 2 tsp fresh dill, chopped ■ ½ cucumber ■ 1 tsp lemon juice ■ 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil ■ Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Run a vegetable peeler lengthwise down the cucumber to create long ribbons. Add the cucumber to a bowl alongside the lemon juice and olive oil. Toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste then set aside for 10 minutes to marinate. 2. Meanwhile add hummus to a small bowl. Roughly chop the fresh dill, and add half of the dill to the hummus and mix to combine. Set aside. 3. Toast the bread. Spread half the hummus on each slice of bread. Top with cucumber, and garnish with the extra dill.

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

SEASONAL RECIPES

A lovely late summer soup, refreshing and light. Delicious with the addition of almonds – give it a go!

Fresh and crunchy!

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes

Fresh and crunchy fennel slaw makes a great side dish, delicious with quiche or burgers.

Preparation time: 10 minutes ■ ¼ white cabbage, thinly sliced ■ 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced ■ 2 apples, cored and thinly sliced ■ 2 tbsp raisins FOR THE DRESSING ■ 100ml (3½ﬂ oz) full-fat Greek yogurt ■ 1 tbsp Dijon mustard ■ 50ml (1¾ﬂ oz) mayonnaise ■ Juice ½ lemon ■ Salt and pepper www.kitchengarden.co.uk

1. Mix the cabbage, fennel, raisins and apple in a large bowl. Set aside. 2. In another small bowl, combine all the dressing ingredients, season with salt and pepper, then toss with the fruit and vegetables. 3. Serve immediately or keep in the fridge till ready.

■ 2 fennel bulbs, chopped ■ 1 onion, sliced ■ 1 tbsp white wine ■ 3 garlic cloves, minced ■ 500ml (17½ﬂ oz) water ■ 1 tin butter beans, rinsed and drained ■ 2 tbsp sliced almonds ■ 1 stock cube ■ A glug of olive oil 1. Heat a pan over medium heat. Add glug of olive oil, then add the onion, and cook for one minute. Add the white wine, and allow to evaporate before adding the fennel and garlic. 2. Add the water and stock cube, simmering for 25 minutes until the fennel is tender. 3. Blend the soup using a stick blender, until it is smooth. 4. Divide the soup among four bowls and top with sliced almonds. ■

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 101

LAST WORD

BANKING ON BEING THE BEST With two Michelin stars and a restaurant recently voted Best in the World by TripAdvisor, one could assume that Tommy Banks has been in this business for decades. But in fact the Yorkshire-born kitchen whiz is only 28 years old – and he’s just getting started…

ome chefs spend their whole lives chasing down a Michelin star – and some might never achieve that goal. But for Tommy Banks, head chef at The Black Swan at Oldstead in North Yorkshire, the capturing of this iconic culinary accolade wasn’t so much a personal goal at first, more a practical business target, because Banks’ promotion to head chef came shortly after his predecessor had managed to get The Black Swan into the pages of the prestigious guide. And the then 24-year-old was keen to show the restaurant’s owners – his own mum and dad – why they could trust him to keep up the good work at the country pub. “I had to persuade them that they actually wanted Michelin stars in the first place,” he smiles. “But my main aim was to win one when the guide came back out again, and it became the absolute thing I had to do.” Fortunately for the self-taught chef, he was able to ensure his establishment would be featured alongside some of the best eateries in the world come that time. Even more incredible was that, in the process of obtaining the coveted award, Banks became Britain’s youngest ever Michelin-starred cook. Joining the culinary elite at such a tender age, it could be fair to say that there were high expectations of what was to come next for the Yorkshireman.

eatery is the menu. As for Banks’ Black Swan board, there’s a huge emphasis on locall produce – a testament both to his family’s farming heritage and the stunning Yorkshire countryside in which the site is located. “My very small pocket of the world is Oldstead and just around it,” he nods. “I know it like the back of my hand and that does really affect the food. I think that when you visit the restaurant you couldn’t be anywhere else, and you have something quite unique.”

SEASONAL GRUB

It’s a relationship that has underpinned his industry success, and formed the backbone of his first cookery book, Roots. Promoting a new concept of looking at seasonal grub over “three seasons rather than four”, Banks’ debut isn’t aimed at the professional chef, but rather the kind of cook that he himself personifies – someone endearingly unencumbered by qualifications or prestige, yet utterly ambitious. And, he claims, anyone with a mind for growing their own can work wonders with a little bit of Banks speciality know-how. “First off, herbs are an amazing thing to explore because you can grow them really well indoors, anywhere, and they can really make a big difference to your cooking. BEST RESTAURANT “I also like to grow things in the Sure enough, the perfectly dark... so you can have a tray “It is modest chef has not with some compost in and altogether more put some peas in it. Then disappointed. He’s accrued another Michelin star, water it and leave it in a wholesome and for example, and The cupboard or a desk drawer fulfilling to be Black Swan was last year or whatever. Come back involved in the voted Best Restaurant to it 10 or so days later in the World by and you’ll have these whole process of review aggregator site psychedelic pea shoots something, rather which will be really sweet TripAdvisor, based on than just customer reviews. and full of flavour. You can “I didn’t know the award literally do it in your desk buying it” existed so that was certainly a drawer at work... I mean, I bit of a surprise,” he laughs. “But I don’t think your boss will be that think that the main point is that it was impressed, but they’ll look and taste voted for by people who have been to and eaten great. For me, things like that are really magic!” in your restaurant. So effectively, 99% of people who ate in the restaurant last year thought it was ENJOYING THE CHALLENGE Coming off the back of such a barnstorming great – well, certainly the ones who voted did.” year in the business, Banks isn’t about to start Success in the restaurant industry relies on slowing things down. a number of things, of course, but there’s no He’s already got his eye on opening another denying that the most important facet of a great 102 | SEPTEMBER 2018

restaurant – something a bit more family orientated – and he’s got plenty of time to grab a few more industry plaudits along the way. Regardless of his future trajectory, however, this local lad is sure to keep his favourite types of fresh produce at the heart of everything he does. “It is altogether more wholesome and fulfilling to be involved in the whole process of something, rather than just buying it,” he says. “But also, in the end, it’s more delicious and it’s fresher and it tastes better, and that’s the real catalyst with me.”

Roots by Tommy Banks, April 5, 2018, hardback, £25, Seven Dials

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

LAST WORD

All photos: Andrew Hayes-Watkins

■ 20g/¾oz butter ■ 50g/1¾oz pumpkin seeds ■ 10 plum or large cherry tomatoes, halved ■ Drizzle of herb and pollen oil ■ 200ml/7fl oz standard pickling liquor ■ 2 very young cucumbers, peeled ■ 100g /3½oz Cherwell or other fresh goat’s cheese, frozen ■ 2 basil sprigs ■ 4 bronze fennel fronds ■ Sweet Cicely flowers ■ Marigold flowers ■ Sea salt

1. Melt the butter in a frying pan. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast them until they begin to crackle. Season with salt and drain them through a sieve. 2. Preheat the oven to very low. Season the tomatoes with salt, dress with herb oil and place in the oven for 30 minutes. 3. Bring the pickling liquor to the boil and pour over the cucumbers before leaving to cool. 4. Char the outside of the cucumbers with a blowtorch or on a gas hob and slice them into rounds. 5. Divide the tomatoes and cucumbers between two bowls and drizzle with herb oil. Add the toasted pumpkin seeds and grate over the goat’s cheese. Scatter the herbs and ﬂowers over the top and serve. 6. When the tomatoes are juicy and ripe, simply marinating them is a lovely way to enjoy the fragrant fruit. By freezing the goat’s cheese you will be able to ﬁnely grate it over the dish to add a rich salty seasoning. ■

KG SEPTEMBER GIVEAWAYS Simply ﬁll in the details below and return to us at: Kitchen Garden September-18 Giveaways, Mortons Media Group Ltd, PO Box 99, Horncastle, Lincolnshire LN9 6LZ. You can also enter online for free at: www.kitchengarden.co.uk Closing date for entries: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 Name

SEED COMPANY CONTACTS DT BROWN & CO tel 0845 371 0532 www.dtbrownseeds. co.uk SAMUEL DOBIE AND SON tel 0844 701 7625 www.dobies.co.uk MR FOTHERGILL’S SEEDS tel 0845 371 0518 www.mr-fothergills. co.uk JUNGLE SEEDS tel 01491 614765 www.jungleseeds.co.uk EW KING & CO tel 01376 570000 www.kingsseeds.com SE MARSHALL & CO tel 0844 557 6700 www.marshalls-seeds. co.uk MEDWYN’S SEEDS tel 01248 714851 www.medwynsof anglesey.co.uk

www.kitchengarden.co.uk

Address

MOREVEG tel 01823 681302 www.moreveg.co.uk

SEEDS OF ITALY tel 0208 427 5020 www.seedsoﬁtaly.com

THE ORGANIC GARDENING CATALOGUE tel 01932 878570, www.organiccatalogue. com

SHELLEY SEEDS tel 01244 317165

PLANTS OF DISTINCTION tel 01449 721720 www. plantsofdistinction. co.uk

SUFFOLK HERBS tel 01376 572456 www.suffolkherbs.com

Email Address

SUTTONS tel 0844 922 0606 www.suttons.co.uk

To enter: Once you have supplied your details, cut out and send this coupon to the address above and you will automatically be entered into the following competitions:

THE REAL SEED CATALOGUE (Vida Verde) tel 01239 821107 www.realseeds.co.uk W ROBINSON & SON LTD tel 01524 791210 www.mammothonion. co.uk SARAH RAVEN tel 0845 092 0283 www.sarahraven.com

SIMPSON’S SEEDS tel 01985 845004 simpsonsseeds.co.uk

THOMPSON & MORGAN tel 0844 573 1818 www.thompsonmorgan.com UNWINS SEEDS tel 0844 573 8400 www.unwins.co.uk WALLIS SEEDS tel 01245 360413 www.wallis-seeds.co.uk

Postcode Telephone

Easy cutting in all directions (p92) ✔

Build your property plans (p92) ✔

I want to receive news and offers from Kitchen Garden via: Email ❑

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❚ For full giveaway terms and conditions please visit: www.kitchengarden.co.uk ❚

SEPTEMBER 2018 | 103

ClassiямБeds | TO ADVERTISE CALL 01507 529459 OR EMAIL CJONES@MORTONS.CO.UK EDUCATION

GREENHOUSES & ACCESSORIES

GARDEN ACCESSORIES

FOOTWEAR

GREENHOUSES & ACCESSORIES

FRUIT CAGES

104 | SEPTEMBER 2018

HERBS

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SEEDS

SOCIETIES

TRUG

Webwatch | WWW.KITCHENGARDEN.CO.UK

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SEPTEMBER 2018 | 105

GETSMITH’S GROWING ROB TOP TIPS FOR GROWING GREAT GARLIC

DISCOVER DELICIOUS RECIPES FOR PUMPKINS AND PEARS

UNLEASH THE CHICKENS FOR BETTER COMPOSTING

N GA RD EN M AG AZ IN E HE TC KI OF E SU IS R BE TO IN YO UR OC

WEEKEND PROJECT: BUILD YOUR OWN HANDY PATIO SALAD ‘FARM’

VISIT THE MINI ALLOTMENTS IN LONDON’S CONCRETE JUNGLE

FILL YOUR LARDER WITH DRIED DELIGHTS FRESH FROM THE PLOT

FREE FOR EVERY READER AUTUMN PLANTING G ONION, SHALLOT WORTH & GARLIC BULB £10.85 COLLECTION * just pay p&p

106 | SEPTEMBER 2018

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