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No. 193 October 2013
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Down-To-earTh aDvice for growing fruiT & veg | kiTchengarDen.co.uk | ocToBer 2013
loose!
Discover the tastiest apples for juicing
We test the best round-fruited varieties TOBY BUCKLAND REVEALS: The secreTs of growing saffron & eDiBLe geraniums!
OUR EXPERTS SHOW YOU HOW TO...
STORE YOUR CARROTS FOR WINTER USE
DRY & FREEZE YOUR EXCESS HARVESTS
COLLECT LEAVES THE EASY WAY
ADVICE FROM PIPPA GREENWOOD & BOB FLOWERDEW ★ RECYCLING TOP TIPS
CONTENTS
EXPERT ADVICE TO HELP YOU GROW GREAT FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
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47 YOU
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YOUR PLOT
JObS THIS MONTH: 6 ON THE VEG PATCH
12 HOT TOPICS
This month sow early peas and broad beans, grow mushrooms and harvest grapes
9 IN THE GREENHOUSE Harvest French beans, peppers and tomatoes, plant garlic
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The latest news and comment from the world of kitchen gardening
14 YOUR LETTERS AND TIPS
Learn what other KG readers have been up to and pick up some great first-hand advice
24 ON YOUR PATCH
We visit more keen KG plotters. Plus send us your pictures and win great prizes from Garden-mall.co.uk
36 QUESTION TIME
Bob Flowerdew answers your fruit and veg growing conundrums
44 USING YOUR FREE SEEDS
106 Cover image: Thinkstock
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4 | OCTOBER 2013
A guide to growing your free lamb’s lettuce
96 DIARY DATES
Plus details of seed and young plant suppliers
102 NEXT MONTH
What’s in store for your November issue plus details of your next gift of free seeds
106 LAST WORD
This month TV gardening presenter Matt James reveals his top 10 winter veg
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OCTOBER 2013
RECIPES
KG chefs Gaby Bartai and Anna Pettigrew cook up some delicious original recipes for plums, pears and peppers
Pg 98
98
16
58
87 WHAT TO BUY
GET GROWING
£
16 BACK TO BASICS
58 FRUIT AT A GLANCE
This month autumn raspberries made simple
50 SAVE UP TO £14.90 ON APPLES FOR JUICING
61 TOBY’S GREENHOUSE SURPRISES
84 GARDEN STORE
19 WHAT A LOT WE’VE GOT! ✪
Celebrity gardener Toby Buckland explains how two exotic beauties can also be tasty treats ✪
66 PLANTING WITH A PURPOSE
86 GROWING GUIDES
73 HOW TO... MAKE A CARROT CLAMP ✪
87 PRODUCT REVIEW… LEAF COLLECTING KIT ✪
Andrew Tokely explains how to grow your best ever crop of swedes for a tasty winter treat
The KG team offer top tips for freezing and drying your autumn harvests
26 REVEALED: THE PERFECT WINDOWSILL CROPS ✪ 28 APPLES FROM LE MANOIR ✪
We take a trip to see TV chef Raymond Blanc’s new venture – an orchard containing 800 trees and discover his favourite varieties for the kitchen
40 TRIED AND TASTED
This month Joe Maiden reveals his selection of five of the best round courgettes
47 JUICES AS TASTY AS WINE
Fruit expert Barbara Hill discovers the best apple varieties for juicing
52 UPCYCLE AND SAVE YOURSELF POUNDS ✪
Top tips on recycling in the garden to save money and reduce your carbon footprint
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Gaby Bartai visits a gardening couple in Fife with a passion for the unusual
Joyce Russell explains the finer points of this age-old technique
76 FROM CHRISTMAS TREES TO CELERIAC
Susie Kearley travels to Attingham Walled gardens in Shrewsbury, Shropshire to see how a walled garden has been restored to its former glory
80 VEGETABLE TROUBLESHOOTER Lucy Halliday brings you her guide to growing healthier carrots
82 PIPPA’S PROBLEM SOLVER
Pippa Greenwood reveals all you need to know to avoid maggoty apples
News of the best new products and services that have reached the KG offices this month
Helen Gazeley reviews the very best gardening websites
This month Joyce Russell looks at products designed to help take the backache out of autumn leaf collection
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94 READER SAVERS – SAVE OVER £22! ✪
Four FREE garlic bulbs for every reader (just pay p&p), plus save on gooseberries, seeds for undercover crops, Grower Frames, elephant garlic, rhubarb and fertilisers OCTOBER 2013 | 5
GET GROWING
Back to basics
SWEDES
This member of the brassica family seems to cause gardeners more problems than any other – but with veg expert, Andrew Tokely’s advice, you will soon be filling your winter store cupboard with delicious roots.
Andrew sows his swedes in cell trays...
16 | OCTOBER 2013
...and then covers the seeds with vermiculite.
S
wedes like to grow on heavy land such as a clay, so if you are on light soil they can sometimes be more challenging. Also, like all brassicas (members of the cabbage family), they prefer an alkaline soil. Given these conditions it would be reasonable to assume that if you can grow good cabbages or Brussels sprouts you should be able to grow good swedes. Gardeners usually start out with the aim of growing large roots the same size as those sold in supermarkets, but alas often only produce something the size of a tennis ball. If that sounds familiar, hopefully following my growing method you will have better success in the future and growing swedes will become easy. Swedes grown well will store for months and are delicious served up diced or mashed on their own or mixed with potatoes. They are also perfect for adding to a soup or stew for a warm and tasty meal on a cold winter’s evening. www.kitchengarden.co.uk
SWEDES
SWEDE aT a glancE gUiDE Sowing
Harvest
Jan Feb Mar Apr May June Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Swedes prefer heavy soils with plenty of lime.
Keep the soil weed free around the crop.
How and wHen to sow
two seeds per cell and then cover them with Traditionally swedes have always been sown vermiculite. These are then stood on the outside in drills from mid May to June. A lot of greenhouse staging until they germinate. Once gardeners do achieve good results sowing in this the seedlings are large enough to handle, thin way, especially if they are blessed with good, well each cell down to one seedling. These are grown drained but heavy land. on in the greenhouse until they have their first For this method firstly rake the soil down to a true leaf then they are moved outside into an fine tilth, then add some Growmore or other open cold frame with some bird protection to general fertiliser at the rate of 60gm per sq metre grow on until well rooted, but not pot bound in (2 oz per sq yard). Rake this into the surface, the cells. then using a swan neck hoe or similar, draw out shallow drills 1-2.5cm (½-1in) deep ready for GrowinG on sowing the seed. If you notice the soil at the base Swedes like to be grown in soil that is rich in of the drills is very dry, which can be a problem organic matter; this is important as it will help when sowing seeds during midsummer, water the soil hold some water during hot or dry the base of the drill first before sowing the seeds. spells. Although the soil must be rich in organic Placing the water at the base of the drill will trap matter it should not be ground that was freshly the moisture below the surface where the seeds manured the previous autumn. This is because if need it. The seeds are then sown thinly along a swede root was to touch fresh manure it may each drill before gently raking a covering of soil fork, making it useless for the kitchen. As when over each row. Then using the back of a growing any brassicas a dressing of lime rake, lightly firm the soil along each in the autumn would also be drill to bed the seeds in. beneficial prior to planting to make If your soil is very light or using sure it is alkaline. Try to plan so the direct sowing method in the this crop is grown on land that past has not been very successful had potatoes the previous year, as Use swedes to make then I suggest sowing is delayed this will still have a plentiful but a hearty soup, stew or mashed on its until early June. Rather than sow not fresh supply of organic own or with direct into the soil I have had very matter available. potatoes good success sowing them under If seeds have been sown direct glass in module (cell) trays in the soil try keeping the and growing them on seedlings moist at all times before transplanting them in the early stages so they outside once large keep growing. This is enough. important, as the To do this, simply quicker they grow fill module trays with without a check the multipurpose compost less chance there is of and water using a rose them becoming woody on your watering can. early on, or bolting and Once these have drained sow running to seed.
Once seedlings are big enough to handle thin them out to 7cm (3in) apart along the rows initially and for bigger roots thin again to a spacing of 15-23cm (6-9in) apart in late August. If you follow my method of raising modular cell plants, these require planting out once large enough at a spacing of 15-23cm (6-9in) apart in rows spaced 38cm (15in) apart. Once planted keep these well watered during warm weather so they keep on growing and quickly become established. During the growing season hoe between the rows regularly taking care not to damage any developing roots. Keep the plants well watered during dry hot spells so the plants don’t suffer any check to their growth. The more water the bigger the swedes and the less chance there will be of them becoming woody. ➤
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Photo: Gap Photos/FhF Greenmedia.
TOP TIP
Thin seedlings carefully to leave one per cell when large enough to handle.
OCTOBER 2013 | 17
GET GROWING
QUESTION TIME Got a fruit or veG problem? ask kG for help
STAR
POTTED POTATO ADvicE
WiTH BOB flOWERDEW
BROADCASTER, AUTHOR AND ORGANIC GARDENING EXPERT
BOB SAyS: First, ant nests will have done little harm. I doubt you could have prevented them though they might indicate rather dry conditions and you should leave out the chippings and straw from your mixture as they probably contributed to this. Secondly, the longer potato haulms stay green and growing, the bigger becomes the crop; once the haulms have shrivelled the crop is at a maximum and it can stay in the ground to be dug as required. However, leaving the crops growing risks blight, which starts on the haulm then runs down and ruins the crop. The running down is prevented if immediately blight is seen on the
OniOn fly QUERy
I have had a problem with onion fly. I have removed all diseased plants and burnt them, but is it okay to use nematodes on the soil to kill the remaining maggots or will this be a waste of time? Ian Jones, via email
Growing carrots and onions together can confuse the onion fly.
LETTER
I have grown potato ‘Kestrel’ in tubs and in the ground and it looks to be very successful (35lb from six tubs). My ‘Foremost’, ‘Picasso’ and ‘Casablanca’ are in the ground only. In both cases, I used my compost and chippings from trees/shrubs taken down the previous year, topsoil, leafmould, straw and some mixed manure. When digging the pot-grown potatoes up last week, I found nests of flying ants. Is there something that I can do to prevent this? With regard to the potatoes in the ground, how long can I leave them in the soil before I dig them up and what would you recommend I use to store them in (I have a garage)? Christine Greene, Bletchley, Milton Keynes
BOB SAyS: There are likely to be some maggots that escaped to pupate in the soiI and it is worth destroying these. A shallow
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leaves the whole haulm is cut off at ground level; the crop can then be dug after a fortnight or so. Further, although crops can be left in the ground, they may be attacked by slugs and other pests so it is sensible to dig and store the crop at that stage. Thirdly, potatoes store best when cold but not frozen and not in very dry air or they will shrivel. Unless packed in some sort of semi-sealed container, either a garage or a workshop will be a risky place as spuds absorb any of the smells likely found there and become unpleasant eating. A root cellar would be ideal; I find a dead refrigerator, or better a dead chest freezer, particularly if kept in a cool shed, a very good substitute.
forking over and several rakings will expose many to the birds and elements. Using the commercially available nematodes could be as effective and you might consider this worthwhile instead of cultivation. Covering the infested ground with a geotextile and growing widely spaced crops through small holes in this could help to prevent the pupated flies emerging next year. However, neither cultivation
nor nematodes can stop more flies arriving from somewhere else. Seed grown onions being smaller and softer when the fly strikes often suffer badly whereas set grown crops will usually survive and frequently escape entirely. Another option is to grow under fleece so the fly cannot gain access or to grow carrots alongside or mixed with your onions as the scent of the carrots can help to confuse the onion fly.
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HeLp to iMproVe garLiC
Many of my garlic plants started to wither where the green stalk meets the developing bulbs this year. The underlying flesh was a little gooey close to the bulb. Any ideas as to cause or future prevention? Most of the failed bulbs were in a clayish soil, the better ones were in a welldrained raised bed. John James, Washford, Somerset
It is essential that the necks of garlic and onions are properly dried before the plants go into storage.
Missing saLad ingredient I just don’t seem to be able to grow radishes. I always end up with leggy stalks that don’t swell out into lovely roots. I have tried different composts, different pot depths and positions in the garden. I give them plenty of water but to no avail. Carole Ward, Honiton, Devon
WHY ‘Fruiting’ potatoes?
I planted second early potato ‘Kestrel’ in April, when conditions were right, but now notice that one of the well grown stems has several ‘fruit’ growing where the leaves meet the stem. I guess these are probably poisonous, but what about the potatoes underneath? Are they safe to eat; will its neighbours be affected? I should be grateful for any help you can give me. Mrs G. Southwood, via email
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BoB saYs: Most likely these have suffered from what is known as neck rot in onions though with onions it more often shows later during storage. It is much aggravated by damage to the necks and by damp especially as the plants approach maturity and start to die down. Since you found the raised bed crop was less affected why not try growing your garlic on ridges? Scrupulous hygiene and care not to damage the plants is essential as is keeping them well dry once matured. Do not force garlic with too much fertiliser as smaller harder bulbs will be more resilient.
BoB saYs: Sow radishes at least an inch or more apart. The only possible cause must be overcrowding as you say other veg do fairly well and you tried different positions so we can eliminate too much shade, low light and dank cold conditions. You watered well so it was not drought, as a serious check could cause bolting when they go leggy, flower and seed. You tried various composts, which if this was more than a couple should eliminate compost conditions and deficiencies. Shallow pots would not suit at all but you say you tried others. Thus I must point the finger again and say sow much much more thinly.
BoB saYs: These are not the usual tomato-like fruit which follow the flowers and which are poisonous and contain true seeds. The potatoes we eat, and plant as sets, are effectively just pieces of swollen stem. One end was attached to the old plant by a now shrivelled shoot; the other, the rose end, has a spiral of buds or eyes which sprout to make the next plant. What you have are similar to potatoes but growing further up the stems and if the plant had been deeply earthed up these might have turned into near normal potatoes. These odd ‘potatoes’ have been in the light and although not yet greened have started to shoot so they will contain high levels of poisonous alkaloids, thus you cannot safely eat them. You might plant them and they would grow into new plants which could just make a small late crop. They will not alter any other plant nearby nor likely be seen again and are really just a sign of your plant’s vigour. OCTOBER 2013 | 37
O
DE
RE YOU
CARRO OUTS I TS
R
★ ST
How to...
Make a carrot clamp It is possible to store carrots and other root crops for up to six months using a clamp. Joyce Russell has used this method for many years and explains how to make one
www.kitchengarden.co.uk
A
good crop of carrots is a heartening sight and late September, or early October, is the perfect time to lift maincrop varieties. A 3.6m x 1.2m (12x4ft) bed can yield enough lovely roots to provide a supply right through the winter, but the question of how best to store the crop comes somewhere between growing plenty of carrots and having a well-preserved winter supply. There are many storage solutions and you may already have a favourite way to keep carrots fresh through the winter months. Some gardeners leave roots in the ground and lift them as needed, but slugs can decimate carrots and, if the ground freezes, they will turn to mush. Some people make layers in barrels of sawdust; others use bins full of sand; some people freeze; others make preserves; and these are all fine for small amounts. But if you have a lot of carrots, then I’d like to suggest that the best thing to do is make a carrot clamp. This method of storing roots has been used for centuries. It works for potatoes, beetroot, celeriac and parsnips, if you grow these vegetables in large amounts. The rounder the root the harder it is to create a neat pile, and there are other methods that work well for some of these crops, but carrots look as if they were designed to make a perfect, conical clamp. ➤ OCTOBER 2013 | 73
GET GROWING
Step by step A CARROt CLAMp
Step 1
Lift maincrop carrots on a fine day and spread the crop out to dry for a couple of hours. Any soil clinging to the roots should be dry enough to rub off before they are stored.
misshapen roots can be stored if they are sound
Use rushes to make a teepee
74 | OCTOBER 2013
Step 2
Step 3
Step 6
Step 7
Sort the roots. Only sound carrots should go into the clamp: any that show signs of rot, or are damaged by slugs or carrot fly should be put aside. Misshapen and small carrots can be clamped successfully, as can some split roots. Splits that are clean, dry and not too wide don’t seem to deteriorate in store, but if in doubt then leave them out. If any damaged roots are included in the clamp then put first these near the top so they can be used first.
Cover the carrots with a natural insulating material such as straw or rushes. This material should be dry when used. Cover the carrots in a 7.5cm (3in) layer and make sure the straw, or rushes, are evenly distributed around the sides. A clamp made with a layer such as this should prevent the contents from freezing at temperatures down to –10ºC. If winters are colder where you live, then use a thicker insulating layer. This layer also helps shed any water from the clamp: look on it like a teepee made from many individual pieces. Leave a tuft of rushes or straw at the top of the clamp.
Choose a level site for making the clamp. Cut the tops of all carrots to be stored with a sharp knife, having a final check for any damage as you do so. Leave roughly 2.5cm (1in) of green stems at the top of each carrot. The leaves can be placed in the compost bin. Optional: Sprinkle a ring of woodash on the ground to help repel slugs from the clamp. If you don’t have woodash try crushed egg shells, sharp grit or similar.
Twist tuft of straw or rushes together to create a ‘chimney’ about 5cm (2in) in diameter. Cover the straw or rushes with a 5cm (2in) layer of soil. You can use a thicker layer of soil if rodents are a problem. Build the soil up from the base by working in circles round the clamp. Pat the soil flat with the back of the spade, or your hands, and keep working upward towards the top of the clamp. Don’t cover the chimney. This allows ventilation to the centre of the clamp. Avoid having a central chimney on top as this allows rainwater to run into the centre of the clamp. Bending the rushes over, so the chimney protrudes to one side is the best option. www.kitchengarden.co.uk
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