AUSTRALIAN BARTENDER
JUNE 2009
ISSUE 102
ISSUE 102 JUNE 2009 WORLD’S TOP 20 BARS BRANDY ANDALUZ BAR & TAPAS
World’s orld s Top Top2 p 20 220Bars: 20B 0 Bars: B Asia-Pacific The 20 to 1 on the region’s best watering holes
The Brisbane Bias Six of Queensland’s finest discuss the local scene
My Sherry Amore
Getting G Ge tting g back k in touch with an old boozy flame
The Bradsell Factor The life and times of a bartending great
Annual World’s Top 20 Bars: Asia-Pacific Bartender Magazine’s
In Association With
The Panel
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Sven Almenning , director and founder, Behind Bars
Jason Bowden , global brand ambassador for Ketel One
Dean Callan , globe trotting ex-pat and ‘master bartender in training’
Grant Collins , managing director, BarSolutions
by Simon McGoram
Phillip Duff , owner of Liquid
With drinking culture coming along in leaps and bounds throughout the Asia-Pacific region, Bartender magazine saw fit to find out which bars are leading the charge. Last year our World’s Top 20 Bars feature proved to be one of the biggest stories of the year and though we’ve taken a slightly different tack this year, we are sure you’ll enjoy the results.
Solutions and Amsterdam’s door 74
In order to find out exactly which venues should be on your radar we’ve assembled a panel of globe trotting bar industry experts to furnish us with their favourite picks. What makes a world class bar is always a subject of much conjecture; one man’s delightful speakeasy is another’s grimy dive, but despite this there was agreement amongst the judges on all of the bars in the Top 20. No bar has made it onto the list without being seconded by another judge on the panel (there were over 80 bars nominated) and they were asked to list their picks in order of preference to determine the final ranking. Once again we’ve endeavoured to keep away from bar owners on our panel to provide the most un-biased results that we can. Our panel has travelled extensively over the Asia-Pacific region from Seoul to Shanghai, Taipei to Tokyo, and Mumbai to Melbourne. Many thanks to our fantastic judges for taking the time out of their busy schedules to offer their insights into the bar culture of this dynamic and growing region.
Honourable Mentions The following bars (in no particular order) didn’t quite make it into the Top 20, but rate favourably with our judges
New Asia , The Stamford Swissotel, Singapore 2 Stamford Rd, Singapore +65 6338 8585 www.swissotel.com
Pool Club , Ivy, Sydney, Australia
Gerald’s Bar, Melbourne, Australia 386 Rathdowne St, Carlton North, Melbourne +61 3 9349 4748
B.A.R Executive Bar , Hong Kong 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong +852 2893 2080 www.executivebar-com-hk.blogspot.com
Tender Ba r, Tokyo, Japan
Nogakudo Bldg., 6-5-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo +81 3 3571 8349
Toko , Sydney, Australia 490 Crown St, Surry Hills, Sydney +61 2 9357 6100 www.toko.com.au Cloud 9 , Grand Hyatt Shanghai, People’s Republic of China Jin Mao Tower, 88 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area, Shanghai, +86 21 5049 1234 www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com
Zeta , Hilton Sydney, Australia Level 4, 488 George St, Sydney, +61 2 9265 6070 www.zetabar.com.au
4bars.com.au
Level 4, 320 George St. Sydney, +61 2 9240 3000 www.merivale.com
drop , Hong Kong On Lok Mansion, 39-43 Hollywood Road, Central Hong Kong, +852 2543 8856, www.drophk.com Karma Kandara , Bali, Indonesia
Jalan Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya Kusuma Ungasan, Bali +62 361 848 2200 www.karmakandara.com
John Gakuru , global brand ambassador for Sagatiba
Andy Gaunt , Asia Pacific regional manager, Reserve Brands, Diageo
Pat Norse , features editor and restaurant critic for Gourmet Traveller
Xavier Padovani , global brand ambassador for Hendrick’s Gin
Angus Winchester, walking drinks encyclopaedia, founder of Alconomics and global brand ambassador for Tanqueray No. Ten
David Spanton , managing director and founder, Spanton Media Group
Mark Ward , creative director, Yakusan and foreign ambassador for The Museum of the American Cocktail Theo Watt , publisher, Thirsty Work Productions (DRiNK magazine, China)
Linden Pride, creative consultant, Rockpool Group & Mangkut Global
Naren Young , former editor Bartender magazine, itinerant barkeep, & drinks writer
June 09 - Australian Bartender. 21.
The Lark Food & Drink, Brisbane
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1/ 267 Given Terrace, Paddington, Brisbane Phone: +61 7 3369 1299 www.thelark.com.au
Well The Lark is no stranger to these pages, having made a real impression at the Australian Bar Awards over the past two years including winning, New Bar of The Year ’07 and owner Perry Scott winning Operator of the Year (Single Venue) in ‘08. One judge had this to say about the joint: “The Lark is as close as I can get to my perfect kind of bar, but not for the decor, drinks or food on offer. The reason I love the place is the team that make it happen, the service is absolutely amazing (at least they are good to me) and the atmosphere is both comfortable and commands respect.”
Woo Bar,W Hotel, Seoul 21 Gwangjang Dong, Gwangjin Gu, Seoul, South Korea +82 2 2022 0333 www.wseoul.com
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Kiitos, Shanghai 1/F, 127 Yongfu Lu, Xuhui, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China +86 21 6431 3787
Sneaking onto the list at number 19 is the dimly lit Kittos in Shanghai. This cosy little bar caters to the growing crowd of cocktail connoisseurs in Shanghai. Here are the judges’ wraps: “This is all about the drinks; from the ice to the spirit and the ritual of service. One for the bartender or the drinks enthusiast.”
Number 18 on our countdown of Asia-Pacific’s best watering holes is Woo Bar, from the W Hotel in Seoul. This is the only bar to have made the list from South Korea which still has a burgeoning bar culture. This is what our panel had to say: “A bar that was a pioneer when it opened several years ago. Stunning design, a great space, fantastic range of products, Woo Bar would not be out of place in New York or Miami, yet shows the level of creativity that Korean bartenders have.” “An ultra modern style bar set in the bottom of the mountains just outside the Seoul CBD with computer screens built into the bar top and slick Philippe Starck and Tony Chi décor. Huge, fun-filled cocktail list which is ever evolving.”
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“Kittos is a small bar run by a very passionate lady called Maiko. This Japanese bartender has played a good part in helping to educate and change the local view of cocktails through constantly offering a quality product, and range of products.”
SPIRITO ITALIANO
22. Australian Bartender - June 09
4bars.com.au
Tippling Club, Singapore 8D Dempsey Rd, Singapore +65 6475 2217 www.tipplingclub.com
While located in Singapore, the Tippling Club has strong ties to Australia with renowned ‘executive bartender’ and owner of Melbourne’s Der Raum , Matt Bax heading the drinks program. Creative Director, Jerry De Souza says that his goal with venue was “to marry the colonial past of the existing Dempsey Village building with a modern skin and the ever present jungle.” The Jungle aside the marrying of old and new has proved to be a success and earn the venture at stop on this list. The judges didn’t hold back: “Combing an avant-garde approach to drinks, and great food, this bar offers an experience over and above simply ‘drinks and food’. Asia needs more bars and bar teams like this to showcase cocktail culture and improve capability of the industry.”
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New York Bar & New York Grill, Park Hyatt, Tokyo
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3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo, Japan +81 3 5322 1234 www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com
Yep this the one you might have spied in a little movie staring Bill Murray entitled Lost in Translation. Situated over 50 floors above Tokyo, floor-to-ceiling glass windows offer mind blowing views of Tokyo. This is what one of our judges thought: “The perfect place to come down after 20 hours on a plane, having freshly arrived in Tokyo. First things first, order a Gin Martini (very dry) and a Kobe Beef tartar in this luxury antre. This is my idea of ‘coming down’!”
Felix, The Peninsula, Hong Kong Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong +852 2920 2888 www.peninsula.com
Situated in Hong Kong’s only surviving historic hotel Felix powered into the Top 20 at number 16. The experts said: “A Hong Kong classic. Enter through the timeless colonial lobby and up to the 42nd floor to a stunning Philippe Starck fitted bar. Great classics and some interesting well made signature drinks served by a quick, professional bar team.” Starck’s avant-garde design was certainly what caught the eye of who judge who simply said: “One word; the men’s bathroom…”
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Spirito Italiano. 4bars.com.au
June 09 - Australian Bartender. 23.
Q Bar, Beijing
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Top floor, Eastern Inn Hotel, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing, People’s Republic of China +86 10 6595 9239 www.qbarbeijing.com
Q Bar’s ascent to number 14 on this list is proving that China will be major player in the style bar scene in years to come. While Shanghai generally collects the kudos attributed to Chinese bars, Q Bar is a haven of quality beverages and flies the flag for Beijing’s burgeoning scene. One panellist commented that Q Bar is “An intensely casual hangout, perched on top of a nondescript four star hotel, Q Bar for the last few years has, nevertheless, stood out from the Beijing bar scene thanks to the passion of its two young owners, George and Echo. Top cocktails, lots of interest in the back bar, and always friendly.” Another said: “Q-Bar is the best bar in Beijing, it’s always busy has a great atmosphere and the drinks are great… Q-Bar is the only thing I like about Beijing (seriously).”
Matterhorn, Wellington 106 Cuba St, Wellington, New Zealand +64 4 384 3359 www.matterhorn.co.nz
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Mandarin Bar, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo
Heading down into the deep south of the Pacific we come to the capital of the Shaky Iles; Wellington. Nestled on funky Cuba Street, Matterhorn has, over recent years, become the governing body of all things bar in New Zealand winning Bar of the Year at the New Zealand Bar Awards three years in a row and Cuisine magazine’s Restaurant of the Year in 2008. The Matterhorn has given birth to bartending talent (like Jacob Briars), musical talent (like Fat Freddy’s Drop) and with a world class drinks selection, wine list, quality nosh, knowledgeable bar team and holistic approach to hospitality this is simply a bar you must visit when passing through. The Matterhorn received an honourable mention in last year’s World’s Top 20 Bars story and slipped in at fifth place in the inaugural feature.
2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan +81 3 3270 8188www. mandarinoriental.com
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Unsurprisingly Tokyo is proving to be a real hotbed of bar culture for the Asia-Pacific region. The Mandarin Bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is described by the hotel’s website as “a microcosm of futuristic luxury” exactly what ‘futuristic luxury’ entails is anyone’s guess, but our judges certainly enjoyed it: “An all female bar crew, led by bar manager Yukiyo, ice balls with the Mandarin Oriental fan logo embedded inside, luxurious settings and ambience make this bar stand out for a bit of decadence.”
Hand-dipped. Handmade. We make our bourbon carefully. Please enjoy it that Way. Maker’s Mark® Bourbon Whisky, 43% Alc./Vol. ©2008 Maker’s Mark Distillery, Inc. Loretto, KY, USA
24. Australian Bartender - June 09
4bars.com.au
The Bowery, Brisbane 676 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, Queensland, Australia
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+61 7 3252 0202 www.thebowery.com.au
The Bowery is a haven of civility in the often manic Fortitude Valley entertainment precinct of Brisbane. Taking out Bar of the Year at the Australian Bar Awards ’08 it is certainly no surprise to see the venue being a top pick amongst the judges. “One of my old favourites the Bowery was a regular of mine for a long time… I have very fond memories and it may be one of the only bars I can think of that I would want to visit even if the bar was empty, just to soak it up and remember some of the good times I have had there.” “Not only great drinks, and efficient bar staff, live music provides an ambience that many cocktail bars today are lacking. Particularly in a time when customers are questioning value for money, and when staying in is the new going out, offering something extra, like some funky live music with great cocktails puts this bar high up my list.”
Black Pearl, Melbourne
Star Bar, Tokyo Sankosha Building, B1F, 1-5-13 Ginza, Cho-ku, Tokyo, Japan +81 3 3535 8005
Star Bar was a feature in last year’s World’s Top 20 Bars sneaking in at number 16. This year Star Bar has crept up few spots to make it into the Top 10. The wee Ginza bar gained much of its fame under the careful watch of renowned Japanese bartender Hidetsugu Ueno. While Ueno-san has moved around the corner to open his own bar, Star Bar remains a must see venue should you be wandering the streets of Ginza in Tokyo, especially if you want to see Japanese bartending at its finest. One judge explained that: “While there are certainly many great bars in Japan and several that are now renowned around the world, I still think Star Bar is the finest. Hidetsugu Ueno may have left but remember that his mentor and owner Mr Kishi is still there making wonderful drinks… There’s old leather banquettes, a long beautiful bar stocked with a huge array of fine liquors (especially whiskies), jamon carved to order and the drinks are sublime.”
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304 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Australia +61 3 9417 0455
The Black Pearl has been a feature of Fitzroy’s funky bar scene for a number of years now and has always been an incubator for outstanding bar talent culminating in being voted Australia’s Bar Team of the Year at last year’s Bar Awards. This is what the panel had to say: “The Industry bar of Australia! Top bar team, fantastic drinks, no pretensions, just a fabulous drinking experience. The bar that all bartenders wished they’d opened.” “From the first moment I arrived at Black Pearl I felt at home, it had all the makings of a great cocktail bar without the need to brag about it.”
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Ku de Ta, Bali Jalan Laksmana, 9, Seminyak, Bali 80361, Indonesia +62 36 173 6969 www.kudeta.net
Bali’s famed nightspot Ku de Ta slips in at number 10 with it’s absolutely stunning beachside location, and recent 1 million US dollar refurbishment. The venue is no secret and has been know to sell over 40,000 cocktails a month! This month KDT is also set to open a new VIP bar ensuring that the venue stays head and shoulders above the rest of the venues on the island. Our judges say that it’s: “The ultimate southern hemisphere beach bar and hangout for any travelling celebrities. Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Pamela Anderson have all been seen hanging out there in the last year. Great drinks, bikini clad babes, a superb Restaurant, great tunes and international DJs. Not to mention the Ibiza style wild glam party’s in the high season.”
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The Italian Artisan of Liqueurs. 4bars.com.au
June 09 - Australian Bartender. 25.
Melbourne Supper Club & Siglo, Melbourne 161 Spring St, Melbourne, Australia +61 3 9654 6300
Motel, Wellington
Melbourne’s iconic late night wine room simply can’t keep away from this feature having made the Top 20 in this feature over the last few years. Comfy chesterfields and even cosier food served till 4am and a terrace bar where you can enjoy a fine cigar make this one place you’re pretty much guaranteed to end up in after a night trawling the fine laneway bars of Melbourne.
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45 Tory St, (access via Forresters Lane) Wellington, New Zealand +64 4 384 9084 www.motelbar.co.nz
Another bar from the country affectionately known at the Bartender office as ‘Cuz-land, Motel truly deserves its place on the Top 20 Bars list. Motel won Cocktail Bar of the Year at the New Zealand Bar Awards in 2008, but for the better part of a decade this little speakeasy style joint has been a haven of classically styled drinks, Fernet Branca, and civilised drinking. Motel is somewhat famous locally for refusing entry to Liv Tyler during the filming of Lord of the Rings. Amongst, the trade though it’s the bars dedication to fine tippicular fixin’s which has earned it a spot on the list.
One judge was enamored to say the least: “Terrace, whisky, cigars… no need to say more! From the leather sofas to the atmosphere and the service; everything hit the spot there! Add quite a cool view while seating al fresco… and on a more personal note the place where Mike made me try party pies for the first time of my life! The compete Australian experience!”
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“Any bar that makes its own home-made gunpowder rum and also has a fascination with Green Chartreuse as well as great forgotten classic cocktails is alright in my book,” explained one judge.
Constellation 2, Shanghai 1-2/F, 33 Yongjia Lu, French Concession, near Maoming Nan Lu, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China +86 21 5465 5993
Seamstress, Melbourne
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113 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, Australia +61 3 9663 6363 www.seamstress.com.au
Seamstress stormed onto the Australian scene last year culminating in winning Best Drinks Selection and New Bar of the Year at the Australian Bar Awards. Spread over three levels in a 110 year old slip of a building that has housed an undergarment manufacturer, a brothel, a Chinese sweatshop and a Buddhist Temple, to name a few, it is oozing with character, humour and charm. A couple of judges gave the joint big warps: “A very cleverly put together Melbourne bar with owner/manger Jason running a very tight ship; now with the cool Sweatshop also downstairs. A great array of drinks, a good back bar and really good honest food served in an easy going environment.”
Yes there are two Constellation bars in Shanghai, and while the original received big wraps too, it is the newer venture that had our panel both shaken and stirred. Both Constellation bars are run by veteran Shanghainese bartender Mr. Jin who is know to many as Kin-san. One of our judges explains: “Kin-san trained under the famous Mori-san from Mori’s Bar in Ginza, and this bar epitomises the direction that we want to take Chinese bartending… Both places make classic drinks with Chinese/Japanese style flare and the place is a hot spot for all those who appreciate great drinks.” “A classically styled Japanese bar in the middle of Shanghai! Awesome! On the map for its great service and first rate drinks in a city where I simply did not expect to find such passion and knowledge.”
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“Knowledgeable service from an enthusiastic team with a great spirits selection, set in a cosy environment perfect for a cold Melbourne evening.”
100% PURE DE AGAVE 26. Australian Bartender -may 09
4bars.com.au
Der Raum, Melbourne 438 Church St, Richmond, Melbourne +61 3 9428 0055 www.derraum.com.au
Bayswater Brasserie, Sydney
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32 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross, Sydney +61 2 9357 2177 www.bayswaterbrasserie.com.au
Well, there are not many surprises in finding the ‘Bays sneaking into the top 10 in this feature for the third year on the trot. After 27 years as a sanctuary from the madness that oft times envelops Kings Cross, Bayswater Brasserie is slowly attaining legendary status. The bar isn’t showy, it’s not filled with celebrities and the toilets aren’t something to write home about. In short, the Brasserie has always been about substance over style. A home for bartenders, journalists and other booze-addled sorts it’s hard not to feel at home sitting at its zinc-topped bar.
Richmond’s Der Raum has long been a darling of international bar circuit with the executive bartender, Matt Bax, putting the place on the map with his daring and innovative drink creations. Judges from both home and abroad applauded Der Raum’s commitment to liquid culture. One judge eloquently put it thus: “There are bars dedicated to bar culture and then there are bars dedicated to the drinks. The almost cultish air at this curiously situated Richmond bolthole confirms its status as definitely of the latter (not to mention the bottle-festooned ceiling), yet the pursuit of good times is still, as ever, the ultimate consideration.” Another simply said: “The bartender’s bar that just keeps getting better.” And another: “…quirky, unique and filled with excellent liquor… like any great bar should be.”
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What the judges say: “Always great drinks quality whether it be a superb classic or their interesting range of contemporary creations. Intimate and full of character early in the week and, on a good night, rocks at the weekend!” “Simple layout, efficient team, friendly bartenders, good back bar selection, amazing drinks… I could go on for ages. I went back to Bayswater Brasserie two years after my first visit only to discover the same standards and most impressively the same bartender! That speaks for itself somehow…” “Impeccable service, spirits selection and ambience – a true testament to time and rotation of staff to maintain its original offering.”
High Five, Tokyo 4F No.26 Polestar Building, 7-2-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan +81 3 3571-5815 And finally the number one ranked bar in Asia-Pacific was unanimously voted as Bar High Five in Ginza, Tokyo. Eight out of our 15 judges ranked this bar highly most citing the owner, host and bartender of renown Hidetsugu Ueno as a major draw card due to his prodigious skill and passion for the craft of bartending. “If you truly know and appreciate this industry you would have heard the name Ueno-san at some point. Mixing drinks is a science indeed, and this guy was coming up with new techniques before he was even conceived. Ueno isn’t just a great bartender but a great guy, and friend, and his popularity, passion, and enthusiasm is contagious. If only High Five was my local.”
1 “The home of Hidetsugu Ueno and his famous ice diamonds… a truly remarkable man and awesome bar.” “There could have been several other candidates from Japan, such as Star Bar, Bar Hoshi etc, however, the reason High Five gets my vote, in addition to the incredible drinks, the range and attention to detail in service that is the signature of great Japanese bartending, is the host and owner, Mr Hidetsugu Ueno. Ueno-san not only exemplifies all that is fascinating about Japanese bartending culture, he also combines an interest in western bartending creativity. His passion, knowledge and skills set him apart...”
FRESH AND UNEXPECTED 4bars.com.au
June 09 - Australian Bartender. 27.