4 HOURS IN... HAMMERSMITH

WORDS HANNAH BRANDLER

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Hammersmith

Meander through the streets of one of London’s most scenic areas with its historic bridge, gardens, pubs and cafés

1 HAMMERSMITH BRIDGE e striking 134-year-old greenpainted suspension bridge is a landmark known to many in London, linking Hammersmith on the north side of the ames with the leafy, suburban-like Barnes neighbourhood on the south side. e Grade-II listed structure made headlines across the world when it was abruptly closed in August 2020. It has had its fair share of issues since its debut in 1887, but a er decades of unchecked corrosion it was feared it may collapse. ankfully this masterpiece of Victorian engineering, designed by Joseph Bazalgette, is now open to pedestrians and cyclists (and rowers beneath), although plans to reopen it to motorised tra c seem far o . is year the government announced a plan to stablise and restore the bridge. Meanwhile, walkers can enjoy its tra c-free beauty.

2 RIVERSIDE STUDIOS is popular arts centre located on the ames Path (just right of the bridge) is one of the neighbourhood’s best spots for entertainment.

Originally a Victorian iron foundry, it was converted into a lm studio in 1933 and later taken over by the BBC from 1954 until 1975, providing a set for early episodes of Doctor Who.

Since then, it has been under the management of a charitable trust which provides a diverse programme of events that has featured stars including Benjamin Zephaniah, Helen Mirren and Lenny Henry. e centre reopened in 2019 following an extensive ve-year refurbishment and now comprises two cinemas, state-of-the-art studios for theatre, dance, comedy, art and TV productions, and a riverside bar, kitchen and bakery. riversidestudios.co.uk

3 THE DOVE Walk along Lower Mall past various riverside pubs; a stretch packed to the brim during the annual boat race between Cambridge and Oxford universities. You will soon reach Furnivall Gardens and a cobbled alley which connects to Upper Mall. Here you’ll nd the historic pub e Dove – a favourite among locals. ere has been a pub on the site since the 17th century, frequented by historic gures, including King Charles II and poet James omson who composed his song Rule Britannia here.

A framed list of patrons, including 21st century luminaries, hangs over the lower bar’s replace. Nab a table on its riverside terrace and duck under low beams to order pin ts. e pub also o ers a full menu of signature dishes by chef Francis Crane cra ed from local, seasonal produce. dovehammersmith.co.uk

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4 ST PETER’S SQUARE Continue down the Upper Mall for seven minutes, passing by various rowing clubs, until you reach South Black Lion Lane. Take the underpass beneath the A4 to North Verbena Garden and turn le to reach the picturesque St Peter’s Square. is beautiful green space was laid out in the 1820s and, unlike most garden squares of this kind across London, it’s open to the public. Here you’ll nd the bronze statue e Greek Runner by Sir William Blake at its centre, but the GradeII listed stuccoed townhouses that surround the garden square are just as interesting.

Check out number 22, an architect’s studio that was once the headquarters of major record label Island Records and where musicians, including Cat Stevens, Bob Marley and U2, recorded. e square’s grandeur has lent itself to movie sets, with the 2006 biopic Miss Potter lmed here.

5 THE ELDER PRESS CAFÉ Return to South Black Lion Lane and stop for a bite to eat at e Elder Press Café, a lovely minimalist eatery with pastel-pink seating areas, an open kitchen, and a cosy garden courtyard. Its seasonally changing menu features dishes for breakfast, brunch and lunch, and its freshly baked cakes are recommended. e café draws inspiration from the area’s printing history (hence the name), and you can nd out more about this heritage by walking along Hammersmith Terrace a erwards – a former hotspot of the Arts and Cra s movement. Blue plaques honour past residents and you can visit the home of typographer Emery Walker at number 7. theelderpress.co.uk; emerywalker.org.uk 5

CATHERINE GRATWICKE