MEMPHIS CON BRIO

WORDS ARLENE SCHINDLER

WORDS MICHAEL ALPINER

SHUTTERSTOCK Music and history flood through the heart and soul of this quintessential American river town

The Reverend Shawn Amos, who is best known as a musician and songwriter, stated, “Memphis is the place where rock was born and Martin Luther King Jr. was killed. It’s full of contradictions, abject poverty and riches that only music can provide.” The name Memphis appears in more than 400 songs according to Billboard Magazine – more than any other city. Memphis is also the home of FedEx, Graceland and St. Jude’s Hospital.

It is a city with memory and history, as well as a modern flair and vision to the future. The gleaming 321-foot Pyramid standing on the south bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River is a nod to the city’s ancient namesake in Egypt.

Two-thirds the size of the Great Pyramid of Giza, this glass-and-steel edifice has become a landmark of America’s Memphis and an attraction in its own right, in its current incarnation as a gigantic Bass Pro Shops superstore.

The Renasant Convention Centre is a 300-thousand-square-foot facility, which boasts column-free ballroom space, exhibition areas that can subdivide into multiple event spaces perfect for meetings and breakout groups, floor-to-ceiling windows to allow for natural light, and easy access to the 600-room (with 300 more rooms planned) Sheridan Memphis Downtown. The convention centre is also in proximity to The Guesthouse at Graceland, The Peabody Memphis, River Inn of Harbor Town, and Big Cypress Lodge, all of which feature comfortable accommodations and meeting spaces.

Though a grand tourist draw, Memphis takes its COVID-19 response quite seriously. Mayor Jim Strickland has led a campaign with the Shelby County Health Department to curb the spread of the virus through enforcement of standard best practices concerning mask wearing, social distancing, testing and sanitation. At time of press the city was in Phase two of reopening, but the statistics are encouraging.

LEARNING FROM HISTORY

For those who enjoy walking in the footsteps of history, Memphis is a living museum. In 1968 the Civil Rights movement was in high swing. Then on April 4, under an overcast Memphis sky, a single bullet shattered the dream. Though a nation mourned, resilience enabled a people to fit the pieces together again and continue the march toward equality.

One essential element of any rights movement is the thoughtful protection of history and memory. The National Civil

Rights Museum, established in 1991, is located at the former Lorraine Hotel, the site of the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. The museum offers a history lesson about racism in America, as well as a memorial to the men, women and children who suffered and often lost their lives during a civil and moral struggle for equality and justice that continues today.

To increase its ability to offer a more immersive and hands-on experience, the museum underwent a $27.5 million renovation in 2013 and 2014, adding films, oral histories and interactive media. In addition, the museum is accredited by the American Alliance of Museums and is a founding member of the Intercontinental Coalition of Sites of Conscience.

Another tourist-must is Graceland, the iconic home of Elvis Presley, which welcomes more than 600,000 visitors through its doors annually (second only to The White House). The home has greatly reduced its tour capacity and its restaurant and shuttle capacity has been cut by 50 per cent. According to a Graceland official, employees and guests undergo temperature checks prior to entrance and hand sanitiser stations have been installed.

Shut for two months, the 23-room mansion re-opened to continuous commercial-grade cleaning and UV light sanitising wands. Employees wear face masks and gloves and visitors are encouraged to do the same. Six-foot social distance markers and touch-free payments have been implemented. Such precautions are being made since the tour usually includes a set of headphones and touchscreen tablet.

Graceland, which was purchased by Elvis Presley in 1957 for a little over $100,000 when he was only 22 years old, today occupies 12,700 square feet. Though the grounds of Graceland are quite extensive, the close floor plan inside the home might make social distancing difficult as guests, eager to soak in Rock and Roll history, crane their necks for a glimpse into the ornate living spaces of The King.

ROCK AROUND THE CLOCK

If one is including Elvis on their itinerary, a quick trip to Sun Studios is as essential as grooves in the vinyl of an LP. For those who do not understand that reference, then Sun Studios will be an education as well as a journey back in time to the rise of such illustrious names as Johnny Cash, B.B. King and Jerry Lee Lewis, along with Elvis. It was here that countless musicians launched their recording careers gripping the mic (something that is encouraged on the tour). Sun Studios is known worldwide as the birthplace of Rock and Roll, and at the end of the tour – which features a multi-sensory experience – guests will feel like they stepped into another world as well as feel a part of it.

Of course, Memphis’ music legacy goes much further back than these ‘50s rockers, nourished in the rich Mississippi Delta country. Gospel, soul, rock, country, funk and of course, the Blues – virtually every corner of American musical life has been touched by the sounds that came out of Memphis. W.C. Handy, the self-styled Father of the Blues, made his home here for a time and his statue stands today at the entrance to Handy Park along the legendary Beale Street.

Along with the Blues, Memphis has also become associated with hoodoo, a set of folk practices that combine magic, spirituality and healing and uses of roots, herbs and charms. This practice originated with African slaves who combined many religious traditions. The practice spread to other areas as a result of the Great Migration. However, hoodoo’s roots (no pun intended) are celebrated in Memphis, especially on Beale Street, itself a tradition and a tourist draw.

If one is searching to reconnect with a lost love, or perhaps find prosperity in the job market, one must stop into A. Schwab’s, a gift, novelty and tourist memorabilia shop. Here the store’s third floor houses a rich assortment of roots, oils and other hoodoo accessories. Established in 1876, A. Schwab’s had been a family run business for 136 years before finally changing hands in 2011. The grandson of the original owner is still there,

mixing ingredients and sharing stories with any customer who dares to belly up to the counter.

CULINARY HIGH NOTES

crude bar occupies what had For those who once been two adjoining enjoy walking in bedrooms. Here, spirits can be ordered, the potable type, the footsteps of and although not top shelf, For lunch and dinner, Central BBQ and Rizzo’s history, Memphis is a living museum one pays for the historic ambiance and a chance to hear the local gossip Restaurant respectively with a touch of Southern are top picks for quality hospitality. cuisine. Central BBQ Finally, not for the faint offers casual eats but formal tastes. of heart, and if one speaks to Opened in 2002, this Memphis-style the locals, totally forbidden, restaurant owns the motto, is Voodoo Village. What “Smoke is our Sauce.” started in the 1960s as St Peter’s From its variety of dry Spiritual Village, a construct rubs to “fall-off-the-bone” of self-ordained Baptist minister meats, Central BBQ is the Washington “Doc” Harris, has come perfect spot to visit between through legend to be known as Voodoo meetings or after work Village. A creepy drive down Mary Angela has ended for the day. Rizzo’s Restaurant Road, a dead-end path leading to the village, features the creations of Chef Michael will bring the foolish thrill-seeker to a few Patrick, who combines common local neglected houses that sport warning signs ingredients with a pinch of love to cook up against trespassers. tasty dishes perfect to match the spirit of the There is a history here of vandals and location. The restaurant is on South Main troublemakers, especially around Halloween, Street, in close proximity to the Civil Rights which has necessitated the residents to fight Museum within the South Arts district. back in an area seldom visited by police.

A trip down South Main Street will Though most thrill-seeking visitors lead the traveller with feline curiosity to search out the most haunted hotels, Ernestine and Hazel’s, a low-key bar and grill sites of grisly crimes and skeletons in the that is rumoured to be haunted. many hidden closets of typical tourist

The best chance of seeing or hearing haunts – all of which Memphis can offer the woeful spirits is upstairs where the in abundance – the more discriminating bedrooms whisper their histories to traveller can still find plenty of off-thepeeled paint, lacerated walls and warped beaten-path experiences in Memphis to floorboards. At the far end of the hall, a satisfy his or her taste.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Neon signs of famous blues clubs on Beale Street FROM TOP: Living room in Elvis Presley's Graceland Mansion; The Saint Paul Spiritual Holy Temple at Voodoo Village; Bus display at Rosa Parks exhibit as part of the National Civil Rights Museum and the site of the Assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.; A guitar statue installed in the front of Sun studios entrance