IT’S FULL OF SOUTHERN CHARM

Southern CHARM

Charleston is a quirky city with history and beauty around every corner, not to mention the satisfying Lowcountry cuisine for which this US state is famous

WORDS ALLYSON PORTEE

Cobblestone streets, quaint corners with hidden treasures, long avenues with Spanish moss draped from tree to tree, pristine waterfront views, salty marshlands, charming architecture, art galleries, Lowcountry Southern Cooking, and walkable views – this is Charleston, South Carolina, and it’s a must visit.

South Carolina, the eighth state admitted into the union of the United States in 1788, has a unique history. With its name signed to the Declaration of Independence, it joined 12 British colonies and defied the

British crown by choosing to secede from

Great Britain in 1776. Today, as you walk the streets of Charleston, old world British colonial-style architecture circa 1600s to mid-1700s yells out of symmetrical façades, pillars, columns, and multi-pane windows. South Carolina was also the first state to secede from the United States in 1860 when the port city of Charleston fired cannons at Fort Sumter, which can be seen today from the Battery.

Now 351 years old, Charleston draws tourists from all over the world. New York City may have skyscrapers that kiss the sky, Chicago may have deep-dish pizza, Texas may have roaming steer, and Los Angeles may have a robust cinema industry that entertains us in our living rooms, but Charleston has charm, some of the best Southern Lowcountry food on offer, amazing hospitality, and captivating nooks and crannies no matter where you turn.

So, put those the bright lights and big city vibes to the side and prepare to be amazed at one of America’s gems.

WHERE TO STAY

Downtown Charleston is full of cutesy restaurants, unusual shops, and landmarks and so naturally, it’s a great place to stay. The Grand Bohemian Hotel, located in the heart of the city on Wentworth Street and part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, blends modern luxury and Southern charm, and its staff are friendly and helpful. Hands down, it is the top hotel choice when in Charleston. If you’re driving, valet parking is available at US$39 per night, which makes for a hassle-free arrival. It’s also less than a five-minute walk to all the top Charleston historic sites and if you are travelling with your pooch, it’s pet-friendly too.

When you step inside the Grand Bohemian, two things hit you – the art adorning its walls (the hotel boasts its own Art Atrium too) and the hotel’s signature fragrance. Art is also a highlight in each guestroom. Works include paintings of the city, which can be purchased if they take your fancy. Other stand-out room features include the deluxe Kessler Collection amenities, complimentary Wi-Fi, and pillow-top beds. The hotel is home to the Élevé rooftop restaurant serving European cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as its famous Charleston-inspired brunch. The creatively plated dishes include a gypsy twist with fresh herbs.

marriott.com

WHAT TO EAT

THE BEST SOUTHERN FOOD Poogan’s Porch

This restaurant has been recognised by The Travel Channel, Martha Stewart Living and Southern Living for its quintessential Southern menu. Set in a restored Victorian house and tucked away on Queen Street, it serves brunch and dinner daily and it’s a mustdine experience. After placing your order, you are served warm homemade biscuits. I suggest a bowl of she-crab soup to start. Originally a home, the last residents left their fluffy white dog Poogan behind, moving elsewhere. Poogan always stayed near the house and when it was converted into a restaurant, management kept him and he became a regular fixture, welcoming guests. Passing on in 1979, his memory is still honoured.

poogansporch.com

Black Magic Café

Located on James Island, this is the go-to breakfast spot in Charleston. The breakfast is good, the staff friendly and the ambience is whimsical, with brightly coloured walls and quirky mini signs dominating the décor. From omelettes, French toast and pancakes to the ‘Tree-Hugger’ granola and yogurt dish with fresh fruit, you can’t go wrong. Don’t leave without trying the honey lavender latte.

blackmagiccafe.com

RuRu’s Tacos + Tequila

This is the place to go if you’re looking for something affordable and satisfying, but not too filling. Its Mexican-inspired menu offers generous snacks that won’t disappoint. Try the ‘I’m Nacho Bae’ nachos served with queso, lettuce, pico, jalapeños and crema. You can add chicken, steak, or shrimp for $8.99. The ‘Ma the Meat Loaf’ for $9 is also tasty – it’s chunky guacamole and tortilla chips. RuRu’s super-duper flour tacos are priced from just $3.99 and come with a range of Mexican-inspired fillings. RuRu’s does not skimp on its portion sizes, with enough of every ingredient to fill your taco, quesadilla, or nachos. You can find it on East Bay Street.

rurustacosandtequila.com

Home Team BBQ

There’s Southern American BBQ and then there’s Home Team BBQ, which is known for its “traditional processes and techniques of classical cuisine with the simplicity of comfort food, BBQ, and southern fare”. Its awardwinning menu has some of the best slowcooked chicken dishes and wings in town, with six BBQ sauce options from around America’s southeast to top them off. Not only is Home Team BBQ in Charleston, it’s in two other South Carolina cities: Columbia and Greenville, and, in Aspen, Colorado. With its vast menu, Home Team, located on Williman Street, is a casual venue that also stages live shows and even radio station broadcasts. Hands down, the food is amazing, and the staff ooze Southern warmth. You won’t leave disappointed.

hometeambbq.com

CODfather

If you’re looking for a proper chippy in Charleston, the drive to the CODfather is well worth it. And by chippy, I mean it includes British meat pies from chicken to steak, as well as sausage rolls. With full or half fish-andchip options and fish butties and chips, you can’t go wrong. Mushy peas aren’t amiss with proper curry and gravy sauces to season up your meal. The menu isn’t vast, but it’s authentic British pub food and it’s more than filling. Head to Spriull Avenue.

facebook.com/TheCODfatherchippy

WHAT TO SEE

The weather in Charleston is mostly mild and the best times to visit are March to May and September to November, rather than summer (June to August) when it is hot and rainy. Your first day in Charleston can be well spent taking a tour of city by private horse-drawn carriage. Private tours with Palmetto Carriage Works are priced from $200 while group tours start from $35 per person.

palmettocarriage.com

The Battery

The Battery, located below Broad Street, is a landmark defensive seawall and promenade that’s sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and stately Charleston homes. It’s a photo hotspot.

RIGHT: Historic houses at The Battery ABOVE: Try the she-crab soup (left) and shrimp main at Poogan’s Porch

OPPOSITE PAGE:

The Grand Bohemian Hotel (bottom left), its Art Atrium, and the design-led lobby

LEFT: Charleston City Market BELOW: The pineapple is a symbol of hospitality in the American South

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter is where the US Civil War started in 1861. Located on an artificial island, it is accessible by boat.

Rainbow Row

Filled with pastel-coloured Georgian historic homes on Charleston’s East Bay Street, diagonally down the street from The Battery, is Rainbow Row. Attracting US and international visitors daily, it’s a top location for Insta-worthy shots. Just as charming are the side streets leading from East Bay Street, behind Rainbow Row. There you will find breathtaking alleyways, cosy courtyards with fountains, and cute homes.

Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon

This edifice has worn many hats, from commercial exchange, custom house and post office to city hall, military headquarters, and museum. It was also the site for live slave trading. It was during the American Revolution that the British made the bottom floor of the building a provost or ‘dungeon’, imprisoning American prisoners of war, British soldiers, and slaves. And in 1791, President George Washington was posted at the Exchange in a private dinner.

oldexchange.org

Pineapple Fountain

Just as the date is a symbol of hospitality in the Middle East, the pineapple is a symbol of hospitality in the American South. At Ravenel Waterfront Park sits a multilayered giant pineapple fountain that faces the Charleston shores. It’s the perfect spot for taking in views of the water and a fun backdrop for family holiday shots.

Historic Charleston City Market

In the heart of the city on Meeting Street is the Charleston City Market. It’s a onestop-shop for genuine Charleston souvenirs, from T-shirts, postcards, art, and clothing to Southern Lowcountry food items.

Most vendors accept credit cards and mask wearing is mandatory. Check out the Chuma Gullah Gallery, with Charleston and Gullah images on show and for sale and don’t miss the Sweetgrass Baskets, which were originally made to winnow rice on local nearby plantations. Today, they are soughtafter souvenirs and can be quite pricey, but the time and effort that goes into making them is well worth the investment.

thecharlestowncitymarket.com Angel Oak Tree

Measuring in at 66 feet tall (20 metres) with a circumference of 28 feet (8.5 metres), the Angel Oak Tree at Angel Oak Park on Johns Island is 500 years old, and a magnificent nature must see. It covers 17,200 square feet with its longest branch extending 187 feet long. The land was once privately owned, but now belongs to the City of Charleston. It’s free to view.

angeloaktree.com

USS Yorktown CV-10

The USS Yorktown is a retired 24 Essex-class aircraft carrier, built during World War II for the US Navy. Named after a key battle in the American Revolutionary War, the Battle of Yorktown, the ship is open for daily tours, including the weekends. Parked and a part of the Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum, it makes for a half-day of fun as you’re able to enter the ship and see other naval vessels.

patriotspoint.org

OUT OF DOWNTOWN

If you want to get out of downtown Charleston, other neighbourhoods that are just a short drive away will give you a more local vibe of the city. They include Sullivan’s Island, Mount Pleasant, the Isle of Palms, Daniel Island, James Island, Johns Island, Folly Island and if you’re a golfer, Kiawah Island, which is perfect for 18 holes. These districts all offer seafood restaurants, markets, tree-lined streets draped in Spanish moss and beautiful walkways.