The Cool Collective – Exclusive interview with Valérie Messika, Founder of Messika Refined Edge – Interview with the founder of jewellery

WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

The Cool Collective

Founder & Artistic Director of Messika, Valérie Messika is as cool as the pieces she creates. We discuss DNA and what it takes to build a global brand with added edge

IMAGE: SUPPLIED What is the core DNA of the brand? My goal since the very beginning ellery further and present something fresh and unprecedented every of the brand, has been to reinvent the richly symbolic and meaningful time. So, my main challenge is always thinking ahead and maintaindiamond into a desirable and disruptive object that lends self-confi- ing the DNA of our Maison that makes us different from the rest. For dence to anyone who wears it. Messika constantly innovates to realize example, the fashion direction we took in my last runway show in Paris this vision, creating new designs and new techniques – conceiving this September is very different from what other established Maisons jewellery that is as individual as it is explosive. Our Maison has been usually go for. I chose to mix my jewellery with street fashion and athsuccessfully setting trends since 2005; bringing a liberating breath of leisure and specifically Adidas, to present a new aesthetic, that has fresh air to the jewellery industry. Our philosophy is making the dia- never been presented before in the world of high-jewellery. mond come alive: making it move and dance. I want to make wearing What is your approach to leadership and how do you ensure these valdiamonds everyday fun and never boring. ues filter down through the company? I have been lucky to start this Tell us how the brand has evolved since it launched and how you main- business with some of my family members and best friends, which altain a sense of edginess in the brand aesthetic as it’s known for? My vi- lowed me to create a family atmosphere in the company and a feeling of sion since the outset has been to make the diamond rock‘n’roll, in- belonging that is very much felt by every employee. For my last show, novative and easy to wear – making jewellery a medium to express I offered the opportunity to people from different departments such as our personalities. This sensitivity has always been present in most of marketing, finance, etc. to take part in the action of the runway show Messika’s creations, both fine jewellery and high jewellery. Messika’s and assist our models in the backstage, as they have a desk job primardiamond is rock‘n’roll and accompanies women in all the moments of ily. I could feel the excitement in the air the moment I entered the space their lives. I like the fact that we evolved as a Maison to create our own pre-show as well as a sense of pride in each one of them. This was one rules and codes since inception as we don’t abide by the rules and jew- of the most rewarding moments I experienced recently as I felt that I ellery codes set by heritage brands; Our mission is to empower women didn’t only succeed in making this company successful but also in into embrace their personal style and make the jewellery “theirs”. That’s stilling something far more meaningful in each member of my team. the spirit Messika injects in every creation. What do you look for in a hire? It is definitely Looking back, I like to think that we disrupted important that each candidate has the skillset the industry and proved that there is no longer a unique approach when it comes to jewellery. “At Messika, required to excel in the role they are applying for but I am always looking beyond that. We are a How do you balance the creative and commercial sides of the business, and do you feel more drawn to one than the other? After obtaining my diploma in communication and marketing from CELSA in Paris, I worked alongside my father for five years, and that’s when I learnt all the secrets of the diamond industry and how I was introduced to the world of business. Even though his wish was for me to take the reins each new collection is a real jump into the void.” family business so I always pay more attention to the personality of each candidate and the energy they transmit as I want to make sure that each new hire can fit within our family. How do you approach scaling without compromising on quality? Quality has always been a primary concern at Messika. Our original profession as diamond cutters has always led us to select only stones with not only beautiof his business one day, I felt that something ful colours and purity but also with the highest essential was missing: creativity. After some quality of cut to allow the stone to have the most time, I felt a strong urge to start my own jewellery brand and that’s beautiful brilliance. In addition, our designs are known for their light, how it all started. Launching my own brand has allowed me to com- graphic style with this way of setting the diamonds as if the gold tended bine these two universes that have always fascinated me, but I must to disappear. This stylistic signature can only be obtained if the setting say that I am more drawn to the creative aspect! is excellent. This means that the more we grow, the more we increase the Which platforms now drives the majority of sales and how do brick and number of quality control operations at all stages of production. Our mortar stores compare? Our boutiques in the Middle East are doing grids of control points are constantly being extended to offer more than very well and that’s the reason we keep expanding our physical pres- ever this level of quality which also makes the reputation of our House. ence in the region, to be closer to our clients and cater to their needs. Have you had any mentors along the way and if so, what knowledge did We are also present on ounass.com which allows us to present our jew- they impart? My father Andre Messika. From an early age, he commuellery to clients who prefer to shop online. nicated his passion for diamonds to me and my brother, Ilan. When I Do you see buying patterns globally or within the GCC and which was little, I remember him bringing home incredible diamonds and let pieces drive sales season after season? Our move concept has always me play with them sometimes. He showed me how to look inside every received a lot of love from our global customers and especially in the stone and also taught me everything I know about diamonds. That is GCC with the Move Uno collection being our best seller, followed by where my attention to detail and my sense of observation comes from. Lucky Move. This is due to the versatility of the pieces born out of this What advice would you give to your younger self? Never stop believconcept and the fact that it’s quite recognizable, making these jewels ing in yourself and your vision. Your passion and hard work can the perfect gift for oneself or loved ones. We’ve also seen an increase achieve miracles. in demand in the region for our HJ (high jewellery) pieces due to the This is The Collectors Issue – which sentimental piece is most special unique proposition of Messika in this area; with its unique edgy de- to you and which Messika piece should be in everyone’s collection? signs and also the quality of diamonds used. Move is the first collection of the Maison. It has gone from being an What have been the biggest challenges to date and how did you over- “it-jewel” to the signature collection, and a concept used also in High come them? As opposed to the prestigious houses of Place Vendôme Jewellery. Its three moving diamonds, simplicity and lightness quickly that have centuries of rich archives and distinctive styles, all of my made it THE jewel thanks to which Messika found its style. Easy to creations start with a blank page. It allows me to create modern pieces wear in the day as by night, at work or with a cocktail dress... its preand disrupt the codes set by the industry. At Messika, each new col- cious cage and the unusual moving diamonds are the very incarnation lection is a real jump into the void. I am partial to certain jewellery of the Maison’s philosophy. It’s also a representation for the love of techniques over others; however, I always start the process without a yesterday, today and tomorrow. I have fun with its design and the colprecise brief, which helps my team and I to push the limits of jew- lection is enriched a little more every year with new variations.