Issue 403
GRAND PRIX 2011
November 2011
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Contents Features
18 Abu Dhabi Arts As Saadiyat Island prepares to host the third Abu Dhabi Arts festival this month, we highlight our pick of the arts extravaganza 24 Abu Dhabi Science Festival Madcap TV scientist Dr Bunhead talks world records, setting his head on fire and all things science ahead of the big Bunsen burner fest that is the Abu Dhabi Science Festival
29 How to… Plot your path through a world of UAE red tape, with our handy guide to life in the Emirates 34 The Abu Dhabi F1 All the info for this year’s big race, plus the low-down on the after-race gigs featuring Britney Spears, Incubus, The Cult and the legendary Paul McCartney
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p34 NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 3
The round-up 12 Salaam Abu Dhabi life this November, in bite sized chunks
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17 WIN! WIN! WIN! A whole host of top goodies up are up for grabs this month, including a table at this year’s What’s On Awards, a private villa stay, and dinner for six. See also p68 and p127
99 Sport & outdoors We get in touch with our local roots by learning falconry and pick out the sporting events not to miss this month 105 Music and nightlife Ladies favourite Michael Bolton chats to us about his recent online popularity, Sophie Ellis-Bextor leads our pick the best gigs in town and we introduce you to ‘the mall song guy’ – Rohit Iyengar, our artist of the month
48 Film A pair of directorial Stevens – Soderbergh and Spielberg – feature this month, as we run our eyes over their movies Contagion and Tintin, plus Brad Pitt’s new baseball flick, Moneyball, and In Time, with Justin Timberlake
117 Travel Freshly revamped, check out Beirut through the eyes of a clued in concierge, also, adventurer Adrian Hayes tells us about following in Wilfred Thesiger’s footsteps
51 Eating out It’s been a busy month for the What’s On foodies, who have been dining out at MCBC’s new Le Deck, FrenchVietnamese newcomer Voi, and Siddharta Lounge. If that wasn’t enough, there’s our pick of the best markets, delis and independent food suppliers, an introduction to South American wines and more words to the wise from our super chef and columnist, Gary Rhodes
129 Hot list Check up on who really is the best in town 146 Backchat Radio 2 newsreader Anthea Ayache worries about the UAE’s fixation with pampering, while getting her nails done
71 Art Our pick of the action from galleries at DIFC, plus five must-see exhibitions 81 Shopping How to shop for plus sizes, and turning our hands to the world of crafts 89 Mind & body Improving your posture, top feet treatments, and the most common spa faux pas 4 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
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p82
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This month we've been... Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner lan Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson | gina@motivate.ae Senior Editor Mark Evans | marke@motivate.ae Deputy Editor Helen Spearman | helen@motivate.ae Features & Food Editor Gareth Rees | gareth@motivate.ae Features Editor, Abu Dhabi Adam Workman | adam@motivate.ae Staff Writer Matt Priest | matthew@motivate.ae Chief Sub Editor Iain Smith | iains@motivate.ae Senior Designer Sheila Cariño-Deocareza | sheila@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant Kamini Ghose | kamini@motivate.ae Picture Researcher – Gulfpics Wayne Fernandez | wayne@motivate.ae Contributors Victor Besa, James Brennan, Louise Browne, Stef Burgon, Roui Francisco, Vikram Gawde, James Houghton, Catherine Jarvie, Charles Pocock, Mark Powell, Conor Purcell, Gary Rhodes, Farooq Salik, Sophia Serin, Simon Smedley, Paul Sterry, Scott Stokes, Jan Stoop, Andrea Trivino Lira Senior Production Manager Sunil Kumar | sunil@motivate.ae Production Manager Sudhakar Chandran | sudhakar@motivate.ae Production Supervisor Murali Krishnan | muralik@motivate.ae General Manager – Group Sales Anthony Milne | anthony@motivate.ae Advertisement Manager Varsha Bhatia | varsha@motivate.ae General Manager, Abu Dhabi Joe Marrit | joe@motivate.ae Senior Sales Executive, Abu Dhabi Hamdan Bawazir | hamdan@motivate.ae
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Head Office: PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 282 4060, Fax: +971 4 282 4436, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae Dubai Media City: Office 508, 5th Floor, Building 8, Dubai, UAE, Tel: +971 4 390 3550, Fax: +971 4 390 4845 Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: +971 2 677 2005, Fax: +971 2 677 0124, E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
Getting to grips with falconry, p100
Getting crafty, p82
Cutting through red tape, p29
Editor's note Arguably the biggest sport in the world – certainly it’s one of wealthiest – the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (p34) is the highpoint in the sporting calendar for many in the Emirates. The penultimate race in this year’s F1 series – although, sadly, Vettel has already taken the crown, so no last-minute thrills there (I say sadly, but he’s probably fairly pleased with himself ) – it’s a huge sporting occasion, attracting visitors from around the world to the UAE. I’ve been to both races in the capital, and a couple in other countries too, and while there is a definite excitement and buzz, it’s the after-race concerts that make the Abu Dhabi leg standout as a must-do event. To attract artists such as Paul McCartney – a living music legend – and Britney Spears – a megastar, whether you’re a fan of her music or not – this year, plus Kings Of Leon, Prince and Aerosmith in the past, is a real coup for the city. It also takes some serious cash – not a problem for F1 – to attract the big names. So even if you’re not a racing fan, be thankful that the F1 circus is in town, offering you a chance to see some great music – and an actual Beatle perform, too. Away from the Grand Prix, there are plenty of ways to have fun this month, and none of them involve cars. The Abu Dhabi Art festival (p18) – I do like the way these things are always prefixed with the tag ‘Abu Dhabi’, in case we forget where we live, but I digress – returns to the capital, bringing with it more joyous exhibitions, installations and beautiful things to look at. The Abu Dhabi Science Festival (p24) – see what I mean? – meanwhile promises to be another fun-filled few weeks, with interactive displays, chemistry labs and even a robot zoo. Best of all, it also heralds the start of the 1001 Inventions exhibit, featuring some of best discoveries from the Islamic world. Did you know that the windmill was invented in the region? Go along, discover more for yourself. Enjoy the issue.
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 7
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We’re officially part of the Twitterati. Follow us @WhatsOnAbuDhabi for exclusive updates on nightlife, restaurants and more around the UAE. Tweet yourself.
Salaam! Life in Abu Dhabi in three pages
What’s hot WORLD FIRST The UAE and Spanish governments have teamed up to open the world’s first solar power plant that can work through the night in Seville, Spain
Guess list
The pick of the choicest fruits on the grapevine
20%
ONLINE IN THE AIR Etihad Airline is hoping to roll out wireless Internet onboard Europe-bound flights by the end of the year. Soon there'll be no escaping us on Facebook, Twitter or Tumblr
MANCHESTER DUNITED Subscribers to Du's mobile network will now have access to news and videos about the Premier League champions, Manchester United
What’s not FORMULA WON It will still be an excellent race, but we can’t help but be disappointed that Sebastian Vettel and his Red Bull team has already wrapped up this year’s F1 titles before they arrived in Abu Dhabi
VAT Reports that the UAE authorities have asked the IMF to help look into developing a valueadded tax scheme to widen the country’s tax base have us worried
NOT 'APPY After all the hoo-ha surrounding Apple's iPhone 4S release in the US and Europe, over here we won't be able to get our hands on one until December 12 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
40% MADONNA She might be nearer the Queen Mum than the Queen Of Pop, but that won’t stop Madonna from making her UAE debut, according to one of our industry insiders. The 53-year-old singer will apparently be performing here midway through 2012.
THIS MONTH WE'RE GOING TO...
JEREMY RENNER The guy who wasn’t Tom Cruise in the soon to be released Dubai-based Mission Impossible Ghost Protocol is set to return to the Emirates this year, according our movie man in the know. Hurt Locker actor Jeremy is said to be on his way for a film festival premier.
40%
BOLLYWOOD ROYALTY Pssst! Want to meet a Bollywood star? Well, your luck is in – there’s a planeload of them arriving for this year’s Dubai International Film Festival, says our film festival spy. And with more than 160 Indian films being screened, chances are he’s right – however, it's not just the no marks; we’ve been told that the big guns are on their way – Kareena Kapoor, Shah Rukh Khan and Hrithik Roshan, to name but three.
JUST FOR MUM Italian restaurant Amalfi is treating mums every Thursday night by offering your mama the chance to eat for free. Mamma mia. Amalfi, Le Royal Méridien, Abu Dhabi, Thurs. Tel: (02) 6742020. leroyalmeridienabudhabi.com
GIRL ABOUT TOWN
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Sameh Elsaghir, kitesurfing instructor Hang out
Gear
Here in the UAE, KitePro is the sole importer of top-ofthe-range equipment from US brand, Best Kiteboarding. kitepro.ae
There's a sports bar near Yas beach called Stars ‘n’ Bars. It’s a favourite of us beach bums, as it’s a chilled out and informal place where sandy beach clothes and sandals don't raise issues. Stars ‘n’ bars, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Wed 11.30am to midnight, Thurs to Sat 11.30am to 1am. Tel: (02) 5650101. starsnbars.ae
Event of the year
From this month onwards we are expecting some good winds so every weekend should be a highlight on Yas’ kitebeach. My highlight of the year is the Al Gharbia Watersports Festival, which takes place in the western region. Mar and Apr 2012, Mirfa, Public Beach, Al Gharbia. algharbiafestivals.com
Beach spots
Right now, Yas Island is the best kitesurfing spot in all of Abu Dhabi. It has good waves, a good amount of wind and it is ideal for beginners and pros alike. yasisland.ae
Eating out
I really like this little burger place called Grand Central. It does the most fabulous burgers and sweet potato fries in town. Grand Central, Muroor Street, Mubadala, Abu Dhabi, everyday 11.30am to midnight. Tel: (02) 6426499. grandcentral.ae
CIRCUS SARRASANI What’s that? Top hats, aerial acrobats and people on small bikes? The circus is in town. Although we won’t lie to you – yes, the clowns scare us. Oct 27 to Nov 11, Sarrasani Circus, Khalifa Park, from Dhs75. boxofficeme.com
CELL EMPTY OF LIGHT Join Iranian-American poet Bahareh for a night of poetry, music and song. All proceeds go directly to aid labourers in Abu Dhabi. Nov 14, The Village One to One, Salam Street, Dhs50, 7pm to 9.30pm. Tel: (02) 4952000. bahareh.com
DJ Natalie Brogan is our eyes on the ground in Abu Dhabi's burgeoning bar scene
THIS MONTH: BREEZE LOUNGE
What does it look like? The outdoor beach bar at Emirates Palace is a stylish, casual spot – think plush couches, and shisha. It all feels very ‘beach chic’, with white drapes and views of the water. Who goes there? It’s open from 6pm to 11pm, so there’s a nice mix of afterwork drinkers and those getting ready for a big night out. There’s a DJ – playing quite loud commercial house – to get you in the mood. Dress code? Beachwear’s allowed – even the staff walk around barefoot. Any bar nibbles? There’s a tapas menu available. I tried the prawns, hummus and cheese croquettes – all of which were good size portions for the price (Dhs50 to Dhs80). Drink recommendations? The cocktail menu is tiny, with only caipirinhas or mojitos to choose from, but they can make something different if you ask nicely. Better to stick to shisha (there are 12 flavours) and bottles of beer. When should you go? Breeze is only open on Thursdays so you’ve not got a lot of choice – but it’s fast becoming a popular way to start the weekend. How’s the service? Fast and friendly. Just how it should be. What’s the taxi situation? You will have to ask for a taxi to come and collect you, but make sure you request a city cab – you don’t want to get stuck with an expensive hotel car. VERDICT A great chill-out venue in a lovely location with a good selection of shisha and tasty tapas, but the drinks menu needs some work. Breeze Lounge, Emirates Palace, The Corniche, Abu Dhabi, Thurs 6pm to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. emiratespalace.com Find us at www.facebook.com/WhatsOnAbuDhabi NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 13
SALAAM
IN THE NEWS FOUND:
NEW LIFE Natural wonder of the world Bin Tinah island, UAE’s UNESCO protective marine area, will be waving the flag for the entire Gulf region as a finalist in the competition to name the new seven natural wonders of the world.
55
Number of new species of wildlife found in the UAE’s Wadi Wurayah according to the Emirates Wildlife Society and WWF
36,592 Number of tickets given to drivers caught using their mobile phones whilst driving in the first eight months of 2011
40% The fall in Abu Dahbi's average road accident rate during the three-day BlackBerry network failure
For Sale:
Fast car. One previous owner Ferrari has launched a new sales drive offering buyers the chance to get their hands on used F1 sports car. With the UAE accounting for eight per cent of all Ferrari sales, the F1 Clienti programme should strike a chord with a few people in the Emirates, although we’re guessing that the ‘price on request’ tag will probably be out of our reach. The superfast racing cars can only be used on specific track days in various locations across the world – so there’ll be no popping down to Spinneys in it if you do get your hands on one.
14 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
Property Regulator
The housing market in Abu Dhabi launches its new e-regulatory system this month. The municipality-run Tawtheeq scheme is expected to monitor tenancy contracts with the intention of standardising them in order to safeguard the rights of both tenants and landlords. Ideally, depending on the success of the scheme, tenants and landlords will be able to conduct rental transactions online. An estimated 180,000 properties have already registered with the Tawtheeq scheme
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WIN! WIN! WIN! A delightful weekend away awaits one reader and a guest. Are you feeling lucky?
WIN! A TWO-NIGHT STAY IN A SUITE AT THE PARK HYATT ABU DHABI To celebrate the opening of the new Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi hotel this month, we have an amazing prize for one lucky winner and a guest. One lucky individual will win a two-night stay in a suite with their guest, including breakfast and an unforgettable dinner on the terrace prepared by your own chef. The beach view suites are surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens, boast their own private terraces with a plunge pool, rain showers and sunbeds, with views over Saadiyat beach or the golf club. For your change to win a weekend in the lap of luxury, simply tell us‌ The hotel has views of over which beach? a) Bondi b) Saadiyat c) Ipanema
To enter this fantastic competition, just e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with PARK HYATT in the subject line and the correct answer to the question
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 17
Returning for its third edition this month, the capital’s internationally celebrated art fair, Abu Dhabi Art, heads to Saadiyat Island for 2011. With representation from artists and more than 50 galleries from across the globe, the event encompasses modern and contemporary works. We speak to some of the most intriguing names from home and abroad that will be gracing the island, and guide you through the highlights
18 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
SEE
ENGAGE
For all its extra art-related bells and whistles, Abu Dhabi Art remains, at its heart, a place where galleries and collectors can meet to buy and sell art. Which is not to say that doesn’t leave plenty for the rest of us to enjoy – with over 50 of the world’s leading galleries represented in the Galleries Sector, expect to be able to see works by leading 20th and 21st–century practioners, including Anish Kapoor (whose enormous sculptural tower is currently under construction in London, to be unveiled at next year’s Olympic Games) and dissident Chinese artist Ai WeiWei. To discover future talent today head to Signature, a featured showcase by galleries of a single artist tipped for greatness or visit Bidya, which spotlights one of the region’s best emerging galleries (this year, Volte gallery from Mumbai). Outside, Beyond offers a curated selection of installations and sculptures, while the Design Studio reveals just how thin the line between art and functional design can be with an exhibition featuring fashion, furniture and interior design.
If you’re after something a little more theatrical, however, perhaps you might prefer to turn your attention to Art, Talk and Sensations, an innovative mix of visual art, largescale installations and live performance. Curated by the effervescent Fabrice Bousteau and based, rather fittingly, around the theme of ‘the island’ it promises to entertain as much as provoke thought. Abu Dhabi Art Film Screenings present the opportunity to drop out (of the main pulse of the fair, at least), tune in and connect with the region’s moving-image auteurs with a programme that explores contemporary Arab cinema (think Iranian giant Abbas Kiarostami). Or you could pay a visit to Abu Dhabi Art Library, an incredible collection of over 8,000 books, journals and auction catalogues relating to modern and contemporary Middle Eastern art.
RELAX
By which time, you’ll quite possibly be in need of a little light relief. ADA’s Educational Workshops make a welcome return after being a big hit last year, bigger and better than ever. They offer the opportunity for visitors of all ages and backgrounds to get hands-on with the creative process. The Art Zone, meanwhile, opens for the first time this year, promising a state-of-the-art space dedicated to arts activities for children (aged two to 12) and their families. Tel: (02) 6575800. E-mail manaratalsaadiyat@tdic.ae
After all that, you’ll be in serious need of a sit-down. The Abu Dhabi Art Café should help refresh and revive, after which you might like to browse the nearby Book Store. Round the day off with a visit to Artyfact, the fair’s very own pop-up retail store – pick up a memento of the day from one of the items specially designed for ADA by a group of local Emirati designers. Nov 16 to19, Saadiyat Island, Abu Adhabi. abudhabiartfair.ae
CREATE
TALK Abu Dhabi Conversations is a series of moderated discussions with leading international art world professionals. Belgian-born local gallerist Isabella van den Eynde and her artistic charges, controversial Iranian artist brothers Ramin and Rokni Haerizadeh will be just some of those revealing insights into their creative and professional practices. Elsewhere, Abu Dhabi Art Interviews offers intellectual stimulation for the rather more time-poor. Featuring 15-minute interviews with artists, gallerists, collectors and curators, this is styled as a more casual, drop-in affair – stay a while and catch up with the latest news and thoughts from the fair and beyond.
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 19
RAMIN & ROKNI Exiled from their home country of Iran, brothers Ramin and Rokni Haerizadeh now pursue their own artistic paths in the UAE. As they prepare to exhibit at this month’s festival, we look at the pair’s respective works to date Forced to relocate to Dubai in 2008, brothers Ramin and Rokni began their artistic journey in Tehran 33 years ago and, while they may live together, their work could not be more distinct. Under the influence of Iranian photographer Massoud Massoumi, Ramin was encouraged to explore a variety of media and make the most of his irreverent sense of humour. His work effortlessly makes bold, humorous statements and Rokni, like his brother, takes his cue from modern-day Iran. Working in film, press and painting, Ramin’s work has featured in major exhibitions including Charles Saatchi's 2009 Unveiled: New Art From The Middle East in London, 2010’s Be Crowned With Laurel In Oblivion at Thaddeus Ropac's Paris gallery, The Right To Protest at the Museum of the Seam in Jerusalem, as well as three solo shows at Gallery Isabelle van den Eynde in Dubai. He has also participated in group shows in London, New York, Berlin, Istanbul and Tehran. Ranging from painting, collage and animation, Rokni has had several solo shows in the UAE, the latest being Oh Victory, You Forgot Your Underwear in 2009 and he also participated in Saatchi’s 2009 show, and Raad-O-Bargh at Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery in Paris. He featured at the Tehran Museum for Contemporary Art in 2004 as well as at the Museum Fur Neue Kunst in Freiburg, Germany. Rokni’s works are included in public and private collections, among which the British Museum, the Devi Art Foundation, the JP Morgan Chase Collection, the Rubell Family Collection and the Rosenblum collection. In both brothers’ work there is a thread of emptiness running throughout. The pair focuses on deep-rooted problems of contemporary society, which eventually extend to beyond their own known limits and boundaries. Beneath the expressive tools both use to exhibit their ideas, Ramin resorting to bitter humour and Rokni to interpretative stories, lie the same recurring theme: the problem with humanity or lack thereof, and how it extends beyond borders. Nov 18, Booth C10, Gallery Isabelle van den Eynde. ivde.net 20 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
QUEEN LATEEFA
Founder and director of Tashkeel, Lateefa bint Maktoum, talks to us about the development of the UAE art scene
UAE art is growing. But it’s less of a university-based thing, more mentorship: a lot of artists are almost teaching each other. I have my studio, Tashkeel in Dubai, where we have people from 18 to the oldest member in her 80s. Because there aren’tmany universities who specialise in fine art, apart from Sharjah and now Zayed slightly, the older artists teach the younger artists older techniques, then the newer artists teach the older artists the new technology. It’s interesting to see them cross over. Art is coming out of conversations more than the traditional academic way of teaching. If people want to see the beginning of the arts scene here in the UAE, where everything started, then look to Hassan Sharif. He also mentored Mohammed Kazem, who is one of the best known curators here. They were the first people showing in the Sharjah Biennale. Hassan Sharif ’s Flying House in Dubai has a lot of his older collections of work up to today. Mohammed Kazem always says that Hassan Sharif was part of the first generation; we’re the third generation now on the arts scene. Hassan Sharif mentored Mohammed Kazem, and then Mohammed Kazem mentored the third generation artists. Hassan Sharif and I have crossed paths, discussed work, I’ve been to the Flying House and talked about different artists and ways of working. You could say that it’s like a family and he’s the grandfather. lateefabintmaktoum.com
SULTAN AL DARMAKI From the desert of Al Ain to top international catwalks and beyond, Emiratesborn footwear designer Sultan Al Darmaki has swiftly become one of the UAE’s hottest fashion properties. And his work has received such plaudits since launching his Darmaki brand last year that now the art world is sitting up and taking notice. In London, where he has resided for the past two years, his Lydia shoe design was recently added to the Victoria & Albert Museum’s permanent collection. This month his work will also be on display at Abu Dhabi Art 2011. As he explains to What’s On, he sees the boundaries between fashion designs and more ‘traditional’ art becoming ever more blurred… “We were approached by Abu Dhabi Art right after the Victoria & Albert acquired one of our principle designs to be exhibited as part of its archive collection. We’re excited about it. We’re going to be exhibiting four pairs of shoes: two from our spring/summer collection and two from our autumn/winter collection. It has, in many ways, validated my argument when we first launched our designs. We had a lot of discussions about ‘is fashion separate from art?’ and ‘is art separate from fashion?’ Honestly, fashion is an integral part of art. That’s what we’re trying to explain, so I’m very happy about it. “When it comes to setting up the mood board for any collection, my inspiration could be a movie, a painting, a woman; it could be anything. I am very inspired by [Spanish film-maker, Pedro] Almodóvar and the way he shoots his films. My approach to shoe design is around 50/50 between practical and artistic elements. We’re trying to differentiate the brand from any other competitors and maintain that artsy feel. You only see that with a few brands at the minute: Manolo Blahnik, the master of shoe making, and in Roger Vivier’s designs as well. Those are brands that we aspire to be like in the future. It’s a big deal to be exhibited at the V&A because it usually takes designers 20 or 30 years or until they pass away – and thank God I’m still around. Within one year, we’ve been featured in books and, next year, in Hollywood films. We’ve dressed Mena Suvari in The Knot, one of her movies out early next year. Sienna Miller personally requested a pair of shoes from our autumn/winter collection. But the V&A is the biggest accomplishment so far. Who would have known that from the desert in Al Ain I would end up in the Victoria & Albert Museum?’’ darmaki.com 22 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
THE VENUE – ART ABU DHABI 2011
Saadiyat Island plays host to Art Abu Dhabi this year, and while the Manarat Al Saadiyat exhibition centre is a comparatively established part of the island’s foetal skyline, it will be joined by the new UAE Pavilion for the duration of the art fair. The Pavilion's design (above) is inspired
by the Emirates’ sand dunes and has previously hosted exhibitions about the UAE’s history at events such as World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, where it attracted almost two million visitors. Currently it’s the only national pavilion that is relocated and reconstructed for events around the world.
Check out the The Art Insider's take on the Abu Dhabi Art, on p 76
EMIRATI EXPRESSIONS
Running parallel to Abu Dhabi Art, the Emirati Expressions exhibition is displaying collaborative work between famed international snapper Stephen Shore and ten Emirati camera whizzes: Afra Al Dhaheri, Afra Bin Dhaher, Alia Al Shamsi, Ammar Al Attar, Fatima Al Yousef, Hadeyeh Badri, Lateefa Bint Maktoum, Maitha Demithan, Mira Obaid Al Qaseer and Salem Al Qassimi. It is definately worth popping along to see, as members of the public are encouraged to get involved by taking portraits of themselves in a huge photo booth (more than three times the normal size), which then prints the shots onto A0 paper, which are then posted onto billboards at the venue. Until Jan 28, Manarat Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, free. Tel: (02) 4061400. artsabudhabi.ae
Abu Dhabi Science Festival The capital welcomes its first science festival this month – nine days of interactive displays, crazy experiments, mad scientists, a robot zoo, new technology, ancient inventions, workshops, shows and more await. Get your thinking cap (and safety goggles) on...
24 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
One of the most madcap faces behind science-demystifying British TV series Brainiac, Tom ‘Dr Bunhead’ Pringle brings his brand of visually striking edu-tainment to the capital for Abu Dhabi Science Festival...
What should we expect from your contribution to the Science Festival? People are going to see some amazing and unexpected things. It’s about understanding, building up the wonder about science and understanding what science brings. It’s a very immersive, visceral experience: handling stuff, making stuff, and taking stuff home. That number one question in people’s minds is ‘Why?’ The science festival is a massive ‘Because’. Where did your interest in science originate? What really kicked it off was a good science teacher. Teaching is key. Everyone’s favourite subject at school, there’s always that same correlation. So how did you alter ego, Dr Bunhead, come about? I was a pHD student in the lab, going quietly out of my mind. I also trained as a schoolteacher and a friend of mine invited me to a school to do some science shows. I borrowed five crates of demonstration equipment, turned up at the school and for an hour and a half had kids with their eyes popping out. I started to learn how to build in a little bit of performance, involve the audience and explain scientific ideas, until they finally understand how an aeroplane could fly or how the weather works. Are your shows about making science more accessible? It’s all about accessibility, enjoyment, and accuracy as well, which is often overlooked. It has to be right. There’s no point doing it if we make it great
fun but get it wrong. The science, education elements, communication and theatricality are important. You call yourself a ‘stunt scientist’. Has anything ever gone dangerously wrong? I’ve set fire to my head before! You try and minimise the risk, but, sure, you get injuries. Insurance companies must love you... Yeah. I have a very large insurance policy, but thankfully I’ve never done anything onstage that’s required a claim. You look like a haphazard Mr Bean wandering around on stage chucking things together but it takes months and months to keep it safe and spectacular. Are you a big kid at heart? That’s probably fair to say. I was a very well behaved child and I’ve been making up for it for quite a considerable time. You’ve taken an interest in breaking science world records. Do you hold any currently? Yes. I’ve just broken one recently for the longest glow-in-the-dark necklace ever made. Chemiluminescence is so beautiful. It seemed like a great idea. It was just over 1000 feet. Look at this year’s Guinness World Of Records on the back page in the stop press: you’ll see me lying on my back with the certificate, glowing material all around me. Nov 18 to 26, ADNEC, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Thurs 4pm to 9pm, Fri and Sat 2pm to 9pm, free. abudhabisciencefestival.ae
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 25
Our top five inventions 1
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Forget Archimedes, Galileo, Logie Baird and Bell. Sure, they’re among the most famous inventors, but did you ever think that maybe they just had a good publicist? Many of our greatest creations were by near-anonymous scholars from the Muslim world, who have often been eclipsed by Europeans, but paved the way for the Renaissance. The 1001 Inventions exhibition has already toured NYC, LA and London and as part of the Abu Dhabi Science Festival it will be educating us all on the technological feats of ingenuity achieved thousands of years ago, using touch-screen tools and interactive Wii-style controllers. Here’s our pick of the top five discoveries from Muslim civilisations
SPECTACLES Abbas Ibn Firnas was an ambitious sort; not only is it said that he had a crack at flying, but he also designed a water clock and a set of rings to simulate the movements of the planets. His most important invention, however, was a method of manufacturing colourless glass using sand and stone, which was then developed into corrective lenses or, as he called them, ‘reading stones’. RayBan and Oakley clearly owe Abbas a few dirhams.
THE FIRST MANNED ROCKET
Turkish inventor Lagari Hasan Çelebi really was a rocket man, burning out the fuse up there alone. In 1633 he launched himself over the Bosphorus Sea in a specially constructed, sevenwinged rocket, powered by 140lbs of gunpowder. A recipe for disaster? Apparently not. Reports say Celebi descended using an early parachute design then swam to shore. TV show Mythbusters tested the legend in 2009; the rocket failed but it seems it didn’t adhere to Celebri’s exact specifications. We demand a new trial (but nowhere near What’s On Towers, please).
THE LARGEST WOODEN SHIPS OF ALL TIME
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In 1692 Christopher Columbus may have sailed the ocean blue, but 14th century Muslim admiral Zheng He was responsible for constructing the most enormous wooden vessels the world has ever seen. At more than 400 feet long they made a mockery of other ships on the sea; Columbus was mucking about in a 70-footer on his way to America, the joker.
COFFEE
Sip your Starbucks and say a silent word of thanks to an Ethiopian goatherd called Khaled. More than 1,200 years ago young Khaled noticed that his furry friends got a touch on the hyperactive side after eating a certain type of berry. The berries were then brewed into a drink called Al Qahwa, which unsurprisingly became very popular, gained fans throughout the Muslim world and then traders took it to Europe.
THE WORLDʼS FIRST MODERN UNIVERSITY
5 26 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
The Al Qarawiyin University in Fez was built in 841. The first institution of its kind, it offered free education across a number of subjects to both men and women. And whose brainchild was this world-changing building? The idea belonged to a young woman called Fatima Al Fihri, who used money inherited from her wealthy businessman father. Girl power.
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Nov 19 to Dec 24, The Corniche, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Thurs 9am to 10pm, Fri and Sat 2pm to 10pm, free. 1001inventions.com
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ABU DHABI
If there is one thing you quickly learn about living in the UAE, it’s that when it comes to getting things done the red tape can be a nightmare. So in order to save you the frustration, the multiple trips and the seemingly endless amount of queuing, we’ve compiled a helpful guide to getting your life in order. You’re welcome
How to guide…
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 29
APPLY FOR YOUR EMIRATES ID
As of next year, the long spoken-about Emirates ID card will become compulsory for all expatriates working in the UAE. Follow these simple steps to get it out of the way as quickly as possible. What you’ll need to bring: Passport with a residency permit valid for at least six months Cash money STEP ONE Registration has to be done at an official typing centre – don’t worry; there are a lot of them. Once there, you need to fill-out an e-form with your passport details. Registration will cost you Dhs100, with an additional Dhs70 service charge. Fear not, however, these are the last payments you will need to make. Make sure you call ahead to try and limit the amount of time you spend queuing. You can find a list of your nearest typing centre at emiratesid.ae. STEP TWO Following your application, you will receive an SMS after a couple of days to confirm the date and location of your appointment. Should you not receive an SMS after a few days, call (04) 2376000 to check the status of your registration. STEP THREE Go to the appointment with your passport and typing centre receipt in hand, for fingerprinting and photographing. Remember, this is an official photograph so you should be dressed conservatively.
30 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
APPLY FOR AN EGATE CARD
APPLY FOR AN ALCOHOL LICENCE
What you’ll need to bring: Passport with a residency permit valid for at least six months Cash money
What you’ll need to bring: Passport, with residency visa Copy of your labour contract Copy of your tenancy contract Passport photos
We are a jet setting, highflying breed here at What’s On Towers, therefore one of the best things we’ve purchased recently was an eGate card. The card allows us quick entry into the UAE without having to wait in those long passport queues after transcontinental flights. Here’s how you can get hold of one too:
STEP ONE Thankfully, this is one of the most straightforward of procedures. You will need to fill out a form at the registration centre at Abu Dhabi International Airport. STEP TWO Once your form is all filled out, they will take your fingerprint ID and take some official photos for you – it is that easy. The whole process will only take ten minutes and will set you back Dhs200, and is made a whole lot easier if you have the correct amount in cash ready. They will hand you your card in person. Note: eGate cards are valid for two years, and you can also have them incorporated into your Emirates ID card.
Unbeknown to some people, it is actually illegal for residents in the UAE to buy, consume, transport or store alcohol without an alcohol licence. So should you have a hankering to unwind on a weekend, are over 21 and not a Muslim, then here are some easy steps to follow to get your licence.
STEP ONE Pick up a licence application form from any MMI or A&E outlet– if you ask nicely, the staff will talk you through filling in the form. STEP TWO Filling out the form is the easy part. Before applying for the licence you will need to bring with you more pieces of paper than you were probably aware you had. The stack you will need to bring to the shop should include: your passport with your residency visa, a copy of your tenancy contract, a copy of your labour contract and a couple of passport photos. The registration will set you back Dhs160, but after this point it is out of your hands. STEP THREE Kick back and relax while the shop processes your form with the Abu Dhabi Police. Pending a successful application, your licence should be sent to you the following week, with a small fee to be paid for delivery. Note: You will need to renew your licence every 12 months. You must have your old licence with you.
IMPORTANT CONTACTS Here are some handy contact details to help you get things done: Emirates ID Contact the Emirates Identity Authority to find your nearest typing centres. EIDA. Tel: 600530003. emiratesid.ae
PAY YOUR BILLS
The most essential of all services in your home, electricity and water supplies are rather crucial, unless zero air conditioning and avoiding showering are personal pleasures. Opening a new account with either the Abu Dhabi Distribution Company or Al Ain Distribution Company should be as easy as flicking on a light switch. What you’ll need to bring: Passport with residency visa Tenancy agreement Make a note of your ADWEA number – normally found above your front door Cash money STEP ONE If only everything was as simple as setting up your account. All you need to do is fill in an application form, present the necessary documents (rental agreement and valid passport with residency visa) and pay a security deposit of Dhs1,000. STEP TWO Assuming there’s an existing connection at your property, the supply should be activated the same day, after which you’ll receive monthly bills. In which case – pay them.
STEP THREE There are several options to how you can pay. Just bring in your latest bill to any official ADDC branch and pay by cash, cheque or credit card. Failing that you can also make payments directly through your bank or from an ATM. Or, should you be really lazy, you can settle your account online via the e-services portal (eservices.addc.ae).
PET RELOCATION
Transporting pets* from country to country can be a tricky – and expensive – process. There are specialist animal movers and veterinary clinics available, but here’s how you can do it yourself.
What you’ll need to bring: Passport with residence visa Up-to-date vaccination book Up-to-date pet health certificates Your pet must already be micro-chipped Cash money STEP ONE All pets being flown in or out of the UAE must have a Fit To Fly health certificate stating that your animal is healthy enough to travel. You can get this from any authorised local vet. STEP TWO You will then need either an import or export permit from the Ministry Of Environment and Water’s Animal Wealth department. To qualify for this your pet must be over four months old and have an up-to-date rabies vaccination. The Ministry will need to see your pet’s health certificates, vaccination records, proof that it has been micro-chipped, a copy of your passport and, of course, a small fee. STEP THREE Whether you are taking your pet to, or collecting it from, the airport you will need to go to the Airport Cargo Village. Take the import/export permit and health certificates to the veterinary department. You will also need to pay another fee of around Dhs400. TO CONSIDER Exporting a pet can be a lengthy process, and a lot depends on the country you are heading to – therefore make sure you check its criteria in advance. You may also need to have all the Fit to Fly certificate and export permit translated into the working language of the receiving country. *Note: Different rules exisit for different animals. This is the procedure for cats and dogs.
Pay your bills Contact the Abu Dhabi Distribution Company for your nearest branch or pay via its online eService (eservices.addc.ae). Abu Dhabi Distribution Company. Tel: (800) 2332. addc.ae eGate Register for your eGate card at the eGate registration centre, Abu Dhabi International Airport. Tel: (02) 5757752 Alcohol licence Registration forms can be picked up at any official off-licence. Contact them for your nearest branch. MMI. Tel: (02) 4462424. mmidubai.com African & Eastern. Tel: (02) 6676041. africaneastern.com The Licensing Department is only open Sun and Mon from 8am to 11am. Licencing department, Khalifa City police station. Tel: (02) 5088888. Pet relocation Contact the Animal Wealth department of the Ministry Of Environment And Water, for queries about import and export permits. Ministry Of Environment And Water. Tel: (800) 3050. moew.gov.ae For issues regarding sending your pets as manifest cargo contact Abu Dhabi Cargo Company. Tel: (02) 5757500. adac.ae Driving registration and licences To find your nearest authorised centres contact the Traffic and Licencing Department of the Abu Dhabi Police. Abu Dhabi Police. Tel: (02) 4195500. adpolice.gov.ae Abu Dhabi Government helpline. Tel: (800) 555. abudhabi.ae Approved countries for licence conversion GCC countries, plus Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, United Kingdom, United States. Special conditions apply to Canada, Cyprus, Greece, Japan, Poland, Turkey and South Korea
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 31
GET A DRIVERS LICENCE
REGISTER A SECOND-HAND CAR
PAY YOUR ANNUAL CAR REGISTRATION
What you’ll need to bring: Passport (original and copy) A copy of your residence permit Eight passport photo Eyesight examination certificate Letter of no objection from your sponsor Valid existing licence (if applicable) Cash money
What you’ll need to bring: Passport (original and copy) Abu Dhabi driver’s licence Motor insurance policy Documents from car finance company Old registration card Original licence plates
What you’ll need to bring: Passport (original and copy) Abu Dhabi driver’s licence Motor insurance policy Old registration card Car test pass certificate
So long as you’re 18 or over, getting on the road in the Emirates isn’t quite as daunting as it might initially seem. Just follow these simple steps to sort your UAE driving licence.
STEP ONE It you don’t drive, the first thing to do is register with the Emirates Driving Company (EDC) for a training card and apply for a temporary driver’s licence, you will need to bring all the necessary documents. STEP TWO Attend the theory and practical lessons at the EDC. Study really hard. When you go to sit the theory test, you will need to bring your ID, your driving file, passport photos and Dhs200. STEP THREE Your practical exam will be made at an agreed upon time at the EDC. Again, make sure you bring your passport, driving file, passport photos and another Dhs200. Upon passing, take your approval paper, ID and (another) Dhs200 to the Traffic And Licensing Department of Abu Dhabi Police, and you’ll receive your new licence. EXISTING FOREIGN LICENCE If you have a valid driving licence from another country, you need to get it converted. Firstly, take an eyesight examination (available at most local hospitals or opticians). Visit the Traffic And Licensing Department of the Abu Dhabi Police and fill in an application form with all the documents. You’ll also be charged Dhs200 for the pleasure. 32 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
There sure are a lot of cars in the UAE, and lucky for penny pinchers, a bustling second-hand car market. Here’s the process to avoid the stresses of regestering a second-hand vehicle.
STEP ONE Having found one that you like, there are plenty of places you can go to register your new used car, such as, the Traffic Licencing Department of Abu Dhabi Police on Al Saada street. Take all the necessary documents with you. If you are buying from a private owner then you both need to attend. If you are buying from a garage then you must bring the sale deed letter. If the car was registered in a different emirate, that registration needs to be cancelled. STEP TWO Before filling out the registration papers, check that all outstanding fines attached to the car have been paid. STEP THREE Now you can fill out the registration form and part with your cash (between Dhs200 to Dhs400, depending on weight of the car). Should the car be more than two years old, it will need to undergo an emissions test, costing another Dhs50. STEP FOUR After a few minutes, you can collect your new registration card and get new plates affixed to your car. You will need to send copies of your registration card to the finance and insurance companies.
As much as you may not want to, you are required by law to annually re-register your car and pay off any outstanding fines that you may have procured. Here’s how to do it as painlessly as possible.
STEP ONE You need to go into an official registration office, with all the necessary documents in hand. Thankfully there are plenty of these places including the Traffic and Licencing Department of Abu Dhabi Police on Al Saada street. You can check for your local centre at adpolice.gov.ae STEP TWO This is the bit that always smarts – paying your outstanding fines that you accumulated over the year. After handing in your registration card, they will inform you how much you owe. Pay up. There is no way around it. STEP THREE Your car then has to be tested to ensure that it is still roadworthy, which will set you back an extra Dh50. You will also have to cough up for the actual registration process, the general fee is between Dhs100 to Dhs200. STEP FOUR After a few minutes, collect your new registration card and affix new registration expiry date stickers to you licence plates.
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The Abu Dhabi Grand Prix brings the power, glory and glamour of motor sport’s iconic Formula 1 Series back to Yas Island for its third year. What’s On zooms you through what to expect… Having established itself as the outstanding event on our capital’s annual calendar, the globe’s greatest drivers go head-to-head once again at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix this month. Last year, the thrilling final race in the sport’s annual battle for supremacy saw Red Bull superstar Sebastian Vettel snatch the world championship in Abu Dhabi. And though Vettel has long since retained that title in 2011, dominating his rivals, F1’s third visit to Yas Island – this time the season’s penultimate race – promises a weekend of high-octane thrills. Three-day ticket holders can catch a sneaky upfront peak at the Yas Marina Circuit on Thursday, November 10 with a pit lane walk, plus access to the F1 Village and Yas Kartzone. Then the real excitement gets underway on Friday, November 11 and Saturday, November 12, with three F1 practice sessions followed by qualifying, alongside action from supporting racing series GP2, Porsche SuperCup and Porsche GT3 Cup. All of which acts as a splendid preface to the main event on Sunday, November 13: the race itself, with build-up from the aforementioned supporting series. The race promises to once again be among F1’s most stunning sights, dashing toward the twilight chequered flag as the sun sets over Yas Island.
34 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS Five Formula 1 champions will grace the grid at the Yas Marina Circuit…
Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull)
The reigning double world champ still remains the second most famous German driver competing at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix.
Michael Schumacher (Mercedes)
German legend ‘Schumi’ has failed to set F1 alight since coming out of retirement, but seven world titles speak for themselves.
Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
Never far from controversy in a crash-laden season this year, precocious British star Hamilton was top of the world in 2008.
Jenson Button (McLaren)
How could a man with a name like a 1950s sportscar fail to become F1 champ? Answer: he couldn’t, succeeding countryman Hamilton.
Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
DOS AND DON’TS DO consult our Grand Prix guide, free with this copy of What’s On DON’T bring food or drink into the circuit; global dishes and beverages are available for purchase, with free water also provided DO make sure to bring your ticket DON’T try to park your car at the circuit without a permit DO use the park and ride scheme where possible DON’T bring any prohibited items (including glass containers, alcohol, prams/strollers/ buggies, whistles, horns, flags, musical instruments) DO bring earplugs and a map of the circuit
The speedy Spaniard claimed back-to-back championships in 2005 and 2006, denied a third by a mere four points last season.
THE FASTEST EMIRATI IN THE EAST?
GETTY
Former F1 ace Johnny Herbert and pundit David Tremayne on whether we will see an Emirati driver in the near future... Johnny Herbert: There is a possibility, absolutely. Twentyfive years ago you probably wouldn’t have thought a black guy like Lewis Hamilton could become a Formula 1 driver, so that’s proved that can happen. And there wasn’t a Pole until Robert Kubica, so there are chances. It’s a very young sport in the Middle East,
but there’s talent there for sure. If you went through everybody in the region you’d find a couple of drivers. Eventually there will be someone who has a good chance. David Tremayne: Never say never. But it’s not going to happen overnight; the infrastructure needs to be there to create these guys. In 20 years, of course it’s possible.
TICKETS Several ticket options are already sold out, but at the time of writing there are still spots remaining in the south and marina grandstands (three-day tickets Dhs2,000 or two-day tickets Dhs1,800). Various VIP packages are also still available, starting from Dhs4,250. Tel: (800) 927. yasmarinacircuit.com
ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX STATS
305.355km Race distance
55
Number of laps
5.554km
Circuit length
TRACK TIMES FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 11
Practice one: 1pm to 2.30pm Practice two: 5pm to 6.30pm SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12
Practice three: 2pm to 3pm Qualifying: 5pm SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 13
Race: 5pm
WILDCARDS TO WATCH Former F1 driver Johnny Herbert selects the outside bets for high finishes in Abu Dhabi… The way the Pirelli tyres will perform in Abu Dhabi means there is a possibility of maybe not a shock winner, but somebody unexpected finishing fourth, fifth or sixth. Sauber always have a riskier strategy and it has worked for them favourably sometimes this season. [Sauber driver Kamui] Kobayashi has done well in a couple of races. Renault have come back too, but I don’t think we’re going to see anybody get any higher because of the performances of Red Bull, McLaren and Ferrari.
1 min 40.279 secs
Lap record: (Sebastian Vettel, 2009) NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 35
GRAB A FREE CD!
The expert explains English racing driver Johnny Herbert won three Grand Prix races during his Formula 1 career and now drives across the world in touring car and endurance series. With experience racing in the Middle East as part of the Speedcar series, he explains the main tests facing the drivers at Yas Marina Circuit… The Marina Circuit is a wonderful engineering feat and a very good circuit. It’s not just straight-line speed. It has challenges at high, medium and low speed, so it has a bit of everything. It’s the challenge of getting the high-speed corners absolutely right and getting the set-up correct for those corners. Also on the long, long straights, it has to be able to stop it in the shortest space of time. From the end of the back straight you’ve got fast right-handers as you come up to the hotel, then you go under the hotel and around the back, up to the start-finish line. The other difficult corners are the S turns after the start-finish. It’s always down to the car being balanced enough that you can use what you have in all those different corners. That’s where this year Red Bull have been able to get everything right, to use the car in the breaking zones where they need to really hammer the brakes. What’s going to be good this year is the DRS [Drag Reduction System, the adjustable rear wing introduced for the 2011 season]. It will actually make Abu Dhabi a better racetrack. Some people have been critical of there being no overtaking in Formula 1. Aerodynamic engineers were able to create cars that slide through the air and don’t create this messy air at the back, which enables drivers to slipstream. DRS is a good thing because it enables that effect to come back. I think we will see a lot more overtaking on these wonderful long straights in Abu Dhabi. The twilight element of the race is never really a big problem because the floodlights work so well going into dusk. It’s amazing how the human eye is able to adapt to these changing conditions. It just adds to the whole aura of the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix.
Shaf Raisi and Dantani are giving away a free promo CD to any What’s On readers who follow them on Twitter (@ shafraisi and @dantani)
RACING TRACKS Playing throughout race day during breaks in the motor sport action, official F1 DJs Shaf Raisi and Dantani provide the soundtrack to this year’s Abu Dhabi Grand Prix…
PODIUM PREDICTIONS
The top teams – Red Bull, McLaren and Ferrari – have dominated the 2011 Formula 1 season. Indeed, no other team has scored a single race win going into the Indian Grand Prix, the precursor to Abu Dhabi. David Tremayne, hugely experienced Formula 1 correspondent with British newspaper The Independent and co-founder of Grand Prix + magazine, can’t see that changing at the Yas Marina Circuit. He picks out the main men to look out for…
Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull)
Vettel is pretty bulletproof these days. He’s got over his hotheaded mistakes and smoothed out the rough edges from 2010. He’s got the best car in the field and is certainly at his most dangerous right now.
Jenson Button/Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
Are you looking forward to it? Dantani: I can’t wait. I’m super excited. I went to both the previous Grand Prixs but it’s going to be a different experience performing. Shaf Raisi: This is my third year. Every year it gets bigger and better. The crowd is fantastic. There’s a different energy level out there. It’s exhilarating. As Emiratis, is it especially exciting to represent your country? Dantani: It’s amazing. It gives us great pride and pleasure to be representing the UAE. Although it would be much cooler if the UAE or Abu Dhabi had its own F1 racing team. Will you be playing any Formula 1-related tunes? Shaf Raisi: I’m producing a track called Hit The Road especially for the Grand Prix. Are you big motor sport fans? Shaf Raisi: Yes. I’m a big fan of Jenson Button. I’ll be supporting him again this year. Dantani: I do watch it occasionally. Because I’m a big fan of Sir Richard Branson, I’ll be rooting for the Virgin team. shafraisi.com / dantani.net
The McLarens are going to be particularly strong. Both of them are going to be right up there. They look as though they’ve really turned a corner. Lewis should have won the race in 2009 and Jenson is in fantastic form at the moment.
Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
Alonso is coming to Abu Dhabi with some past history to put to bed after his disappointment of missing out on winning the World Championship here last year. Never underestimate him.
The capital goes Formula 1 crazy over the Grand Prix weekend. Here are a handful of motorsport-loving events coinciding with the high-octane action at Yas Island… RACY ART Armin Flossdorf exhibits his Formula 1 art at Le Royal Meridién (November 9 to 13, free) and paints live during a special five-course dinner at the hotel’s Al Fanar restaurant (November 13, Dhs400). Le Royal Meridién, Khalifa Street, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6742020. leroyalmeridien.com FAST DEALS Abu Dhabi is abuzz during the F1, although thankfully not everywhere is fleecing its patrons during the city’s busiest weekend. Grab 20 per cent off drinks and bar snacks with race day happy hours at, discounts in the hour leading up to the main race at NRG, or a bucket of Mexican beer with nachos for Dhs125 at Amerigos. The Tavern, Sheraton, Corniche Road, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6773333. sheraton.com NRG, Le Meridién, Tourist Club Area, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6446666. lemeridienabudhabi.com Amerigos (Park Inn, Golf Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6562222. parkinn.com
ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX 2011
TESTING,TESTING… Narain Karthikeyan became the first ever Formula 1 driver from India when he made his Grand Prix debut for Jordan in 2005. Currently the reserve/test driver for the Hispania Racing Team, he takes us behind the scenes of a reserve/test driver’s role… Normally, I do the first Friday practice session, give feedback and get the team’s first impression of the circuit. Then we analyse a lot of data. It’s a lot of work. This year we have Pirelli tyres, so we have to see how they cope. Friday practice is very important, trying to get as much balance as possible. Then you wait around and see how
The Abu Dhabi Grand Prix weekend has become synonymous with the swankiest of parties. Here are the hottest Formula 1-related destinations in the capital…
SWAPPING SPORTS Formula 1 stars are rarely short of confidence, so much so that this Grand Prix weekend they’re taking on the region’s top footballers at their own game
CHEQUERED FLAG BALL
Raising the curtain on the F1 weekend, the glamorous Chequered Flag Ball moves to the new St Regis hotel for 2011. The red carpet event features a champagne reception, four-course meal, unlimited bar, plus performances from British soul stalwart Mica Paris and Eddie & The Robbers, the rock band of former F1 team boss/current BBC TV F1 analyst, Eddie Jordan. Hosts are Tom Urquhart and easy-onthe-eye sports presenter Kirsty Gallacher (pictured). Nov 11, St Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 7.45pm to 3am, tickets Dhs2,000, tables Dhs20,000 to Dhs25,000. Tel: (04) 4456842. chequeredflagball.com
it goes in the other practice sessions, qualifying and the race, so you are ready to jump in, in case something happens with the other two drivers. Nowadays, there are very few days of testing. Since the start of the season I think you do six days in total. Reserve/ test driver is not the biggest role, but it’s still important to the team.
AMBER LOUNGE
Set up by ex-driver Eddie Irvine’s sister Sonia in 2003, F1’s exclusive touring VIP after-party only travels to the flashest dates on the Grand Prix calendar: Monaco, Singapore, Delhi, and, of course, Abu Dhabi. Also boasting a fresh venue for 2011, film stars, celebs and, once the racing is finished, the F1 drivers themselves are regular Amber Lounge visitors. Jenson Button, Hugh Grant and Simon Pegg all turned up last year, making it a real rub-shoulders-with-the-stars opportunity. Nov 11 and 13, Yas Links Golf Club, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, times TBC, tickets Dhs650 to Dhs800, tables Dhs5,200 to Dhs15,000. Tel: +377 97771634. amber-lounge.com
It’s not really about egos, however, the inaugural Pilots Football Charity Event is raising money for local good causes. Full line-ups are yet to revealed but expect to see F1 drivers Michael Schumacher, Fernando Alonso and current world champ Sebastian Vettel switch overalls for footy shirts and shorts. On the soccer side, Diego Maradona, Fabio Cannavaro, David Trezeguet and World Cup 1990 Emirati legend Adnan Al Taliani are due to play. There’s also a post-match gala dinner at Yas Links Golf Club, where the victorious team will be presented with the winners’ trophy. Nov 9, Mohammed Bin Zayed Stadium, Al Jazeera Sports Club, Abu Dhabi, 7pm, free. Tel: (02) 4454455. pilotsfootballevent.com
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 37
BEATS ON THE BEACH The international stars return to Abu Dhabi at Yasalam’s Beats On The Beach extravaganza this month, catering for fans of dance, rap, rock, R&B, Middle Eastern music and beyond. Best of all, the entire four days are free to the public. We’ve scoured the programme and selected the highlights so you don’t have to...
Thursday, November 10
Wednesday, November 9 THE HEADLINER: WYCLEF JEAN From rapping superfluously over The Fugees’ monster hit Killing Me Softly to questionable latter-day incidents involving his native Haiti, hip hop entrepreneur Wyclef Jean hasn’t had things all his own way. But global fame and multi-million record sales can’t be disputed, both with his group and since embarking on a successful solo career after The Fugees disintegrated almost 15 years ago. THE ONE TO WATCH: SEO IN YOUNG Anything Lady Gaga can do, South Korean soloist Seo In Young can, seemingly, do weirder. The colourful and often bizarrely-clad vocalist left K-pop girl band Jewelry four years ago and has refined her eccentric wares ever since. THE MIDDLE EASTERN STAR: HICHAM EL HAJJ A comparative veteran in his native Lebanon, Hicham El Hajj is a popular figure in his homeland, with a well-regarded discography and multiple awards to his name, plus experience playing festivals around the world. THE REST A triple whammy of UAE talent complete the opening night of Beats On The Beach: classic rock-influenced guitar slingers The Flaming Trees, rising songwriter Danny Band and celebrated Emirati spinner, DJ Bliss.
THE HEADLINER: J COLE When Jay-Z is your boss, chances are you didn’t arrive in the position without talent. North Carolina native J Cole was the first rapper signed to Roc Nation and looks set to increase his burgeoning fame with recent debut album Cole World: The Sideline Story. His gaffer liked the record sufficiently to join his protégé in the vocal booth for the occasion. THE ONE TO WATCH: NINE MUSES Widening the K-pop seam running through this year’s Beats On The Beach, nubile multi-legged girl gaggle Nine Muses make their debut bow in Abu Dhabi. Named after the nine goddess daughters of Jupiter, expect hits such as No Playboy, which have earned no little success in South Korea. THE MIDDLE EASTERN STAR: NAJWA KARAM Lebanese pop queen Najwa Karam has comfortably shifted more albums than the rest of today’s bill combined. A staggering 50 million international sales later, she is one of the best-selling Middle Eastern artists ever. She’ll be treating Beats On The Beach to a greatest hits set. THE REST If acoustic ethnic fusion sounds are your bag, then Dubai’s Dahab will float your boat. South Lebanese singer Ayman Zbib and Britishborn Radio 1 DJ Danny C complete the line-up.
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 39
BEATS ON THE BEACH Saturday, November 12
Friday, November 11
THE HEADLINER: SABER EL ROBAI Europe, North America, Australia and Asia have all fallen under the spell of Tunisian singer/composer Saber El Robai. In Abu Dhabi he’s set to raid the catalogue with hits Sidi Monsour and Khallas Tarak. THE ONE TO WATCH: JULIANA DOWN The first UAE band to sign with a major label after securing a Sony deal earlier this year, Dubai rockers reflect the city’s multinational flavour in their line-up. Their big stage calibre is clear to see, boasting past support slots with Muse, Justin Timberlake, Guns N’ Roses and Maroon 5. THE MIDDLE EASTERN STAR: HASNAA ZALAGH After winning a talent competition in her homeland, Moroccan vocalist Hasnaa Zalagh ditched a career in accounting to take up music; a good move given the success of her first album, Waffar Kalamak. THE REST Hip hop siblings Desert Heat – Illmiyah and Arableak – have almost a decade of experience in the game, while DJ Dave Crane has opened for everybody from James Brown to Iron Maiden.
THE HEADLINER: FATBOY SLIM A steering force in British dance music since the mid-1990s, Norman ‘Fatboy Slim’ Cook tasted mild musical success with The Housemartins and Beats International before assuming his bestknown guise. Spearheading the big beat genre, Cook has racked up floor-filling hits like they were going out of fashion, most notably with classic 1998 album, You’ve Come A Long Way, Baby. THE ONE TO WATCH: EXAMPLE Example – aka London wideboy Elliot Gleave – has evolved from a cheeky rapper into a genuine club-inspired chart-topper in the UK. Latest album, Playing In The Shadows, hit number one earlier this autumn, aided by euphoric hit singles Changed The Way You Kiss Me and Stay Awake. Having wowed the masses at Sandance in Dubai last month, expect more crowd-pleasing fun. THE MIDDLE EASTERN STAR: ARYAM After rising to prominence as the youngest participant in talent show Ya Hala Beldaif way back in 1995, beautiful Emirati vocalist Aryam has since performed around Nov 9 to 12, the Gulf, collaborating with prominent poets and Al Sahil Beach, Abu composers en route. Dhabi, 7pm to 1am, THE REST On any other day of BOTB, Jay Sean would be the free. Tel: (02) 5098000. outright star draw, a British urban artist who has truly yasalam.ae conquered the US charts. Emirates hip hop crew The Recipe should keep energy levels high, as will Middle Eastern guardian of rap, DJ Dany Neville. 40 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
Paul McCartney
GETTY
The third and final gig of this year’s F1 celebration sees erstwhile Beatle and living legend Paul McCartney touch down in the capital, for the start of his global Band On The Run tour. Named after his debut album with Wings, Band On The Run was the album McCartney needed to make after that break-up of Beatles – but the path to its release was far from easy. This is the story of that time The 1970s began with you suing your best friends, beset with legal problems, with no band, and the world pretty much hating you. Can you tell us about that period? Personally, it was a nightmare. It was like the worst kind of thing to be in. It was really difficult, because I knew I didn’t hate them [The Beatles], but I knew we had to save The Beatles, and I was the only one who was going to do it – because the three of them were just sending it down the chute [the remaining Beatles wanted to hire Allen Klein as manager, with Klein taking cut of the band’s sales]. I’m not stupid, so I understood that to sue The Beatles you would be instantly hated, no matter what the circumstances were – and if I had been anyone other than myself, I would have hated me too! The thing was, the three of them – John kind of led the charge – went with Allen Klein, and we had a choice whether to go with him or not. George and Ringo said, ‘Yeah, we’re doing whatever John does’, So I had to kind of go along with that, a bit reluctantly, but as I realised what Klein was doing, and what he had done. He was like a New York guy [adopts fast-talking wise-guy accent]: “Whaddya want, a million bucks? Sure, you can have it!” And it was very difficult to resist. If a guy says to you, ‘What do you want, a million dollars? You got it, you go’, Wow, this guy’s amazing! And I think we were just way too naive to even remotely understand what he was doing. And he was charismatic; I could see all of that. But anyway, I eventually saw through him and thought, ‘No way, dude. He’s going to own The Beatles.’ 42 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
How did you work it out? The guys came to me, because they were in his pocket, and he [Klein] used to call me the ‘reluctant bride’ or something – I said, ‘Damn right I am!’. One of the sticking points was they would say, ‘He wants twenty per cent.’ I said, ‘twenty per cent of The Beatles? It’s like the hottest act on Earth! Tell him he can have ten!’ And they went, ‘Oh, no, no – he wants twenty.’ I said, ‘Tell him he can have ten! That’s what we do: we’re what he wants and this is how you do the deal. You don’t just go, ‘Oh, OK, you can have twenty’. But they were very reluctant to do all of that. So, in the end, they came back and said, ‘He’ll take twenty per cent, but only on the new stuff he gets us.’ So, for a while, I had to kind of settle for that, but in actual fact, that was how we got him in the end. Because what happened was our side was very thorough, and he was just prattling around. There was no way out for us – we had to either nail him or marry him. There were piles of papers – they must have been three-foot high, a big pile of documents – and our legal team went through all of these documents, every single one with a finetoothed comb, and they eventually found one document which proved that he had been
taking twenty per cent off the old stuff. So it was like ‘gotcha’. So this and, you know, his history... It’s all very difficult what you can say – you have to say ‘allegedly’ legally and all that – he’s still got kids and an estate and stuff, and I don’t have any problems with him anymore – but you have to coat it a little bit sweetly these days. What was the thought process behind suing The Beatles? Once I saw what was going on, I just knew that I had to resist. So I said to my lawyers, ‘I want to sue Allen Klein.’ They said, ‘You can’t – he’s not a party to the agreements.’ But they were telling me: ‘You’ve got to get out of this, or you won’t have anything left in a couple of years.’ He was taking a whacking great fee on top of that twenty per cent – I forget what it was – five million or something. It was a hell of a lot of money. So they said, ‘The only people you can sue are The Beatles.’ So I said, ‘Well, I can’t do that.’ It just drove me crazy. Personally, it was just a nightmare. But in the end I just said we’ve got to do it. And we did it, and it was terrifying. It was a very low time for me personally, but it was just one of those things.
WH A EXC T’S ON LUS IVE
So we did, and we were very lucky, but we were right, and I think history has proved that we were right – now Yoko, Olivia, George, before he died, John and Ringo all acknowledged and said, ‘You were right’. For months I couldn’t do it. But in the end I just had to do it, knowing the perception of the world would be very much against what I was doing – because they wouldn’t understand. I knew it could never look good. But, in actual fact, history has proved now that it was the right the thing to do, and now we have Apple Records.
a lot of numbers off Band On The Run, but it’s not an idea I would have ever thought of myself. For instance, The Beatles could have done the whole of Revolver or Rubber Soul or The White Album and it would have been a great concert, but it just wasn’t anything we ever considered doing. It was more when bands like Phish started doing whole albums of other people’s and things that that whole vogue started to take hold. So yeah, I’ve definitely been asked to do it, and it might be a cool idea, but I’m thinking about it.
You were protecting the legacy. Well, there wouldn’t be a legacy; let’s put it like that. The Beatles wouldn’t have been able to do the Anthology, the Love show or any of that stuff now – that would have been out of our hands. So, we are still able to protect the legacy, and that was really what it was all about – it needed protecting.
Does revisiting older material influence what comes next? Yeah, that’s one of the good things about playing live – you’re always playing older material, even if it’s only a year old. All the time that I’m singing my stuff I’m like reviewing it – I’m literally re-viewing it – I’m looking at this song and thinking, ‘Oh, this is an interesting bass line I’m playing’, and ‘Oh, these words – that was pretty good for a 24 year-old boy’. You do that.
Are there any plans to play Band On The Run in its entirety? I’ve been asked to do that. It doesn’t occur to me. I’ve been asked to do it, so I’ll definitely look into it and consider it. I certainly will do
Nov 13, Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, free entry witn race-day tickets. yasalam.ae
The long and winding road to Band on the Run McCartney Paul McCartney Released: April 1970 Debut solo recorded amidst the deterioration of The Beatles. Macca plays all the instruments himself. The impressive Maybe I’m Amazed overshadows Beatles rejects Junk, Teddy Boy, and the throwaway yet charming filler.
Ram Paul and Linda McCartney Released: May 1971 Savaged on release for its whimsical nature, over time Ram has been praised for its melodic brilliance. The pointed Lennon references of Too Many People, the ambitious Uncle Albert/Admiral Halsey and the rocking Smile Away form a misunderstood pop gem.
Red Rose Speedway Paul McCartney and Wings Released: April 1973 Though invigorated by his first live shows in six years, the production and hollow intentions of Red Rose Speedway incurred MOR comparisons. Its highs were few and its lows were many. McCartney was clearly in search of clarity and direction.
Let It Be The Beatles Released: May 1970 The final Beatles release was a fractured album whose creation was recorded for the world to witness the band’s fall-out. McCartney’s attempts of rallying the group was met with animosity. He hated the final production by Phil Spector. The end was nigh...
Wild Life Wings Released: December 1971 The first album credited to Wings, Wild Life was an attempt to recreate the studio vitality of the augmented band of first takes. The results, unfortunately, were deemed lightweight: Rolling Stone calling it “trivial and unaffecting”.
Band On The Run Paul McCartney and Wings Released: December 1973 The consistent album so desperately needed finally arrived. The mini-suite of the title track, the rocking Jet, the Lennon-ish Let Me Roll It, the sweet harmonies of Mamunia, the Beatle-esque Picasso’s Last Words – this was the restoration of Paul’s reputation as a world class songwriter. NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 43
Open for lunch. Every day. Indoors or out.
The capital’s favourite Italian is now open for lunch seven days a week from 12.30pm – 3.00pm InterContinental Abu Dhabi. 800 423 463 / dine@icauh.ae
Britney’s back
THROUGH THE AGES The ups, the downs, the rock bottoms and sky highs 1981 Britney Jean Spears is born in McComb, Mississippi
Her past has sold a million gossip magazines, so as Abu Dhabi gears up for Britney Spear’s first concert in the Middle East, we take a look at her journey from pop sensation to rehab and back again A real-life soap opera, Britney Spears’ rise, fall and subsequent rise isn’t your everyday strife of late rent, bad dates and a long commute. Instead, the small-town girl turned pop princess and must-watch celebrity has been in the public eye since her debut smash single ...Baby One More Time in 1999, at age 17. Since then we’ve witnessed outrage at her Rolling Stone cover, countless makeovers, hundreds of hair extensions, stage shows with snakes and Madonna, a fateful night where she wielded a hair trimmer for the world to see, children, marriages, lashing out at paparazzi and, now, a seemingly more settled Spears at age 29. Her fans, too, have undergone a transformation, from breathless, bright-eyed tweens singing “hit me baby one more time” to club kids embracing the darker side of Britney, with her obvious problems and increasingly electronic tracks. It’s a sad fact that critics appear to appreciate Spears’ music more when she’s undergoing personal trauma; 2007’s Blackout, with the catchy, aggressive Piece of Me, was being promoted around the same time as the head-shaving/rehab/being stretchered out of her home era. As Britney surrenders less to the songwriters and puts more of herself into the music, the better the professional results and, tragically, the more negative headlines we see about her personal life. Her attempted comeback after the ‘Bald Britney’ scene was to take place at the 2007 MTV VMAs, complete with new single Gimme More, a spangled black bikini, shoulder-length blonde hair and waiting crowds. Instead, we
BRITNEY IN NUMBERS Hours Spears was married to childhood friend Jason Allen Alexander before the marriage was annulled
Views of Womanizer on youtube.com
Times voted Sexiest Woman in the World by FHM magazine
saw an undeniably unpractised and out of shape Spears struggle through the performance, miming about how she “just can’t control herself – oh!” with all the enthusiasm of a jaded office cleaner. The poor show was made worse by an allegedly unintentional jibe from comedian Sarah Silverman moments after Britney came off the stage, saying, “Wow – she is amazing. She’s 25 years old and she’s already accomplished everything she’s going to accomplish in her life”. Before going to describe Spears’ children as “adorable mistakes”. Ouch. The subsequent years have seen custody battles, numerous awards, a sixth studio album, Circus – which was one of the fastest-selling albums of 2008 – a second greatest hits release and TV cameos on How I Met Your Mother and Glee. Just your usual late-20s behaviour. In March 2011, Spears released Femme Fatale and the single Hold It Against Me, which shot to number one on the Billboard Hot 100. Her Abu Dhabi date will showcase the album and past hits, with earlier shows demonstrating Spears’ live singing, rather than the much-criticised lip-synching of previous tours, plus some of the best dancing we’ve seen from the star in years. Personally, things look on the up too, with rumours of engagement to boyfriend of two years, Jason Trawick. Of course, the wedding will send the paps into a frenzy, with the dress, venue and guest list under unrelenting scrutiny, but we’re sure Spears is used to the attention by now. Nov 11, Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi. Entry included in race-day tickets. yasalam.ae
Guinness World Records held by Spears, including ‘most searched person’ and ‘best-selling teenage artist of all time’
YouTube views of super-fan Chris Crocker’s hysterical video plea for the world to leave Britney alone
1990 Auditions for The Mickey Mouse Club but deemed too young 1992 Performs on television show Star Search 1993 Joins The Mickey Mouse Club with co-stars Justin Timberlake, Ryan Gosling and Christina Aguilera 1998 Signs to Jive Records and releases …Baby One More Time 1999 The title single (and schoolgirl-style video) becomes a smash 2000 Britney vamps up her image and announces she’s dating Justin Timberlake 2001-2003 She breaks up with Timberlake, opens her restaurant, releases two albums, performs with a snake, stars in Crossroads and kisses Madonna.
2005 Gives birth to son Sean Preston
2004 Marries childhood friend Jason Alexander and gets engaged to back-up dancer Kevin Federline. Busy girl
2006 Photographed driving with Sean Preston on her lap, gives birth to second son, Jayden James, and files for divorce 2007 Checks into rehab for a day, shaves her head, more rehab, loses custody of her sons and tries to stage a comeback at the VMA. It doesn’t go well 2008 Sent to a psychiatric ward, appears in How I Met Your Mother, wins three MTV VMA awards and releases Circus, her sixth studio album 2009 A return to form with a spot in the Guinness Book Of World Records and a highearning world tour 2010 Announces she’s dating Jason Trawick and appears in a Britney-themed episode of Glee. Gleeks go wild
Total number of times the word ‘baby’ appears in the lyrics of Spears’ 22 top singles
Number of times the word ‘baby’ is sang in Baby One More Time
1984 Starts taking dance lessons
2011 Releases Femme Fatale, tours worldwide and is rumoured to be engaged
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 45
Incubus The Cult Adding the rock to the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix’s after-race concert series, American five-piece Incubus play on the same bill as British metal-revivalists, The Cult. But who rocks harder? We pit the two heavyweights head-to-head against each other to see who cranks it up to 11
Nov 13, Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi. Entry included in race-day tickets. yasalam.ae
NAME
Incubus – Named after a demon that visits you in your sleep. 11/11
The Cult – Abbreviated from Southern Death Cult. 11/11
FROM
California – Conveyor belt of world-class bands. 10/11
Bradford, England – Not exactly a rock fortress. 6/11
DATE FORMED
1991 – Not bad, seeing as they were still at school. 9/11
1983 – They’ve done their time. 11/11
NUMBER OF BAND MEMBERS (PAST AND PRESENT)
Seven – Fairly stable line-up. 5/11
25 – Pick a drummer and stay with it. Volatile line-up – rock‘n’roll 11/11
BREAKTHROUGH ALBUM
S.C.I.E.N.C.E – A fusion of funk and metal. Rockin’ Love – Big hair and catchy riffs. 10/11 10/11
MOST POPULAR TUNE
Drive – Worldwide smash, acoustic bliss. 10/11
BIGGEST STAGE FOUL UP
Frontman Brandon Boyd plays the didgeridoo on Not even bothering to sing at the 1989 MTV stage – A bit too ‘world music’ for us. 4/11 awards performance – Too cool to sing. 10/11
NUMBER OF ALBUMS
Seven – Excellent work rate 11/11
Eight – Even with a seven-year hiatus. 8/11
FRONTMAN TATTOOS
11 – Boyd a canvas, and he designs most of his body art himself. 11/11
Eight – A healthy art showing. 8/11
MOST ROCK‘N’ROLL ACTIVITY
Gigs at ace venues The Roxy and The Whiskey while still in school – Baptism of fire. 10/11
Guns N’ Roses’ first tour was opening for The Cult in 1987 – Showing the kids the ropes. 9/11
LEAST ROCK‘N’ROLL ACTIVITY
Boyd released a book of poetry and art entitled White Fluffy Clouds – We’re saying nothing. 1/11
Ian Astbury plays the tambourine – Too ‘Kumbaya’ for their own good. 2/11
AWAY FROM THE STAGE
Every member of the band surfs – Gnarly, dudes. 9/11
Astbury is a practicing Buddhist – We’re not too sure how rock’n’roll inner peace is. 2/11
TOTAL
Left it late, but edged it at the post – winners and rightful owners of the headlining slot
46 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
101/132
She Sells Sanctuary – Launched them to worldwide status. 11/11
99/132 Just came up a bit short – here’s to hoping they set it right on the Yas stage
FILM
Contagion
In Time
Contagion
In Time
The Adventures Of Tintin
WHO?
Marion Cotillard, Matt Damon, Laurence Fishburne, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Winslet, Steven Soderbergh (director)
Amanda Seyfried, Justin Timberlake, Cillian Murphy, Olivia Wilde, Alex Pettyfer, Andrew Niccol (director)
Jamie Bell, Andy Serkis, Simon Pegg, Nick Frost, Daniel Craig, Steven Spielberg (director), Peter Jackson (producer)
TAGLINE
‘Nothing spreads like fear.’
‘Live forever or die trying.’
‘This year, discover how far adventure will take you.’
ONCE UPON A TIME...
A dormant but lethal virus spread to the human population, quickly becoming a global pandemic that had medical science scrambling for solutions as society began to collapse.
Future science had halted the ageing gene; 25 was as old as you got. Population control measures granted the rich immortality, while the poor were forced to trade time as currency.
Young reporter/adventurer Tintin (Bell) first encountered his multimillionaire friend Captain Haddock (Serkis) and, along with a cast of misfits and oddballs, they set off to hunt lost treasure.
IDEAL IF YOU’RE IN THE MOOD TO...
See a stellar ensemble cast tackle a fast-paced thriller in which Soderbergh focuses more on the psychology of public reaction than the workings of the virus itself.
Settle back with a sci-fi thriller that won’t tax the grey matter too hard, but that should offer decent scope for a few ‘what would you do if…?’ chats on the way out.
Lose yourself in the escapades of one of the great cartoon characters of the 20th century, updated with a snappy script from Edgar Wright (Hot Fuzz, Shaun Of The Dead).
WATCH THIS IF YOU LIKE...
Reminding yourself that, if disease is to be our downfall, it’ll mostly likely be our own fault – think The Andromeda Strain (1971), Outbreak (1995), or 12 Monkeys (1995).
Classic 1970s futurist visions like Soylent Green and Logan’s Run, both of which mooted different, but equally, immoral approaches to tackling overpopulation.
The 1960s TV show Hergé’s Adventures Of Tintin would be a good start – although the motion capture techniques used here make it look more like a family version of 2007’s Beowulf.
TOP TRIVIA
A number of leading science writers have come out strongly in favour of the film’s plausibility, and particularly its account of how the virus first spreads to humans.
Speculative fiction author Harlan Ellison – who once penned a draft screenplay for I, Robot – has filed a lawsuit against this movie, claiming it steals from his work.
Somewhat surprisingly, this is the first fully animated outing for Spielberg in the director’s chair. Just as well Peter Jackson’s company, Weta Digital, is providing the tech clout, then.
WHAT’S ON TEN WORD OR LESS REVIEW
Chillingly plausible, star-studded exercise in near-documentary discomfort levels.
An intriguing premise, but the ethical core deserves deeper exploration.
Action-packed romp stays pleasingly faithful to Hergé’s original material.
RATE OR SLATE?
★★★★✩
★★★✩✩
★★★✩✩
48 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
FILM | NEW RELEASES
Tower Heist
Azaan
Tower Heist
Moneyball
Azaan
The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn
Ben Stiller, Eddie Murphy, Casey Affleck, Alan Alda, Matthew Broderick, Tea Leoni, Brett Ratner (director)
Brad Pitt, Jonah Hill, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Chris Pratt, Casey Bond, Bennett Miller (director)
Sachiin J Joshi, Dalip Tahil, Candice Boucher, Arya Babbar, Ravi Kissen, Prashant Chadha (director)
Kristen Stewart, Robert Pattinson, Taylor Lautner, Stephanie Meyer (co-producer), Bill Condon (director)
‘Ordinary guys. An extraordinary robbery.’
‘What are you really worth?’
‘A country. A conspiracy. A common man.’
‘Forever is only the beginning.’
A wealthy apartment inhabitant duped his neighbours out of large amounts of cash, and so they hatched a scheme to get even by collectively burgling his penthouse.
Billy Beane (Pitt), manager of the struggling Oakland Athletics baseball team, met a young Yale statistician and became convinced that a mathematical formula for success might exist.
A young informant for the Indian army’s research and analysis team was drawn into the deadly world of biological terrorism, only to discover his own brother was already involved.
Bella (Stewart) and Edward (Pattinson) married, despite only one of them being a vampire. That would soon change, but the imminent arrival of a child would cause further, even darker complications.
Catch a slick comedy revenge caper, benefiting from an impressive line-up of big names and set in a single New York City high-rise.
Mix sports and scientific theories, which you don’t get the chance to do too often – especially when it’s based on a true story, as this is.
Have your eyeballs seared by some spectacularly explosive effects – this one is right up there with the costliest Bollywood features produced to date.
Witness a load of former emo kids forced to grow up slightly while retaining that crucial gothic sulk. This probably goes as much for the audience as it does for the characters.
Ocean’s Eleven (either the original 1960s Rat Pack version or the 2001 Steven Soderbergh update) and its bungling 2002 cousin, Welcome To Collinwood.
Any of the numerous baseballthemed underdog stories – Bull Durham, In A League Of Their Own – and imagine them infused with a touch of A Beautiful Mind.
High-octane terrorism-based thrillers including The Hurt Locker, Syriana and Munich – or, more specifically, recent Bollywood breakout hits Roja and Sikandar.
Previous movie installments in The Twilight Saga, basically – if you didn’t buy into the whole mooching romance angle before, this is highly unlikely to change your mind.
The friendship between Murphy and Stiller offers clear parallels with the Rush Hour franchise – hardly surprising perhaps, since Ratner directed those films as well.
This adaptation is based on Michael Lewis’ 2003 book Moneyball: The Art Of Winning An Unfair Game. It caused such a stir in the game that ‘moneyball’ is now a baseball term in its own right.
South African model Boucher is known outside the movie industry for glossy pin-up shoots in the likes of GQ and FHM, but her attire remains defiantly respectable here.
Carter Burwell, composer of Bella’s Lullaby and known for scoring the vast majority of the Coen brothers’ films to date, is back on board for Breaking Dawn parts 1 and 2.
May lack tonal consistency, but ultimately gets the job done.
Surprisingly soulful sports classic sees Pitt hitting a home run.
As its Cannes reception attested, an impressive and engaging spectacle.
Isn’t this franchise getting a bit long in the tooth?
PREVIEW
★★★★✩
★★★✩✩
★★★★✩ NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 49
VOI
EATING OUT
p53 p54 p55 p57 p58 p60 p63 p66
Voi Cook a classic The connoisseur Quit the supermarket Le Deck Siddharta Lounge The Chef On the menu NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 51
The Fish Market is Dubai’s favourite “market style” fresh seafood restaurant which offers unrivalled views of the Creek as well as the freshest seafood available. Choose from a wide selection of freshly caught fish and an array of seafood delicacies, then relax whilst our team of South East Asian Chefs prepare it exactly as you like it. Fish Market, Seafood restaurant, is open daily for Lunch from 12:30 pm - 3:15 pm, Dinner 7:30 pm - 11:15 pm
Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek Baniyas Road, P.O. Box 476, Dubai UAE For Bookings, please call 04-205 7333 Infocenter.Dxbza@radissonblu.com radissonblu.com/hotel-dubaideiracreek
EATING OUT The news that troubled celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay was departing the UAE made all the headlines recently, with Gordon closing Verre on October 28. But this month heralded something more important – the start of the new-opening season. From now until summer 2012, the UAE will welcome many restaurants – some exciting and some not so exciting. Sitting firmly in the former camp, I’m sure, will be Verre’s replacement, Table 9 by Nick And Scott, which you can read about on page 66, as well as in depth on our tumblr site (whatsondubai. tumblr.com) – and we’ll bring you more on that venture in next month’s issue. We’re also told that a new Rivington Grill is set to open at the Madinat in Dubai next spring and, to digress slightly, that the Riv at Souk Al Bahar is soon to launch a Friday brunch. Next month sees Hakkasan open at Emirates Towers and, fingers crossed, steakhouse Gaucho across the road at DIFC, where Marco Pierre White is set to launch his Wheeler's seafood restaurant – and former Bice manager Roberto Rella will bring a taste of Italy to the financial centre with Roberto’s. And that’s without even mentioning Abu Dhabi, which is about to see a rash of new restaurants studded with international names. So it has begun, and to start things off this month we’ve brought you our verdict on Voi (p53), Le Deck (p58), pan-Asian restaurant Kris (p58), Radisson Royal's Icho (p60) and Siddharta Lounge (p52) In this month’s Eating Out you will learn how to cook a classic Yorkshire pudding (p54), escape the supermarket (p57), tell your Malbec from your Tannat (p55) and stuff potatoes like our columnist Gary Rhodes (p63). We also lunch at Indo Thai (p64), check out Canadian favourite Tim Hortons (p64), test three new menus (p64) and introduce our brand new news pages (p66). With all that going on, who needs Gordon Ramsay? Enjoy. Gareth Rees, Features & Food Editor
Voi
French Colonial Vietnamese is an exciting prospect, but is Zabeel Saray’s crowning glory as promising as it sounds?
UAE restaurants, on the whole, like to play it safe. Culinary experimentation is thought to be a little too much for our picky palates. Tried and tested is seen as the way forward by most in the industry – if, fortunately, not quite all. So, we’ve been looking forward to the opening of Voi, described as a Vietnamese restaurant inspired by the 1920s French colonial period. The dining room is magnificent. Not in a brash, showy way, but in the grand, European tradition. High ceilings, white panelled walls – so it looks the part. But what role is Voi trying to play? The Vietnamese, after all, are not known for crisp white table linen and stiff collared waiting staff. They are known for noodles, lemon grass, fish and chilli sauce, stir frying and boiling, freshness and simplicity. And, perhaps best of all, their eaton-the-go street food. Reconciling the complexity of flavour, deftness of touch and price tag of European fine dining with the unpretentious freshness and honesty of pocketfriendly Vietnamese pavement chow is no easy matter. But our tasting menu showed serious promise. A dainty, layered dish of sweet snow crab atop soft avocado and mango, with a sprig of coriander, a zing of lime and the nuttiness and aroma of sesame. Scottish salmon marinated in Nuoc Mam fish sauce
and served with a delicate herb salad was similarly fresh, but the flavours needed a little more work. King Henry leaf roll was the standout dish, managing to maintain the authenticity of traditional Vietnamese food whilst using premium beef tenderloin. Pinching a delicate skewer between our fingers and biting into the shiny, seaweed green parcel we were surprised to be rewarded with a solid ball of minced meat, rather than the expected diced beef – juicy and sweet, and crammed with herby flavour. Sweet and sour beef soup was perhaps not complicated enough for a fine dining menu, but we loved it. Commendable depth of flavour in the broth was turned into a real citrus cheek sucker by a generous squeeze of lime. The Brittany blue lobster that arrived next was the most disappointing dish of the evening. On the main menu it would set you back a whopping Dhs350 – though we’re assured ours was just a tasting portion – and it didn’t succeed at all. The lovely, luxurious lobster was overcooked and rubbery and the “vegetable garden” we were promised turned out to be a swamp of soggy veg. The final warm dish was duck breast, a few titbits of unnecessary
foie gras, brussel sprouts and a kick-in-the-head tamarind sauce. It was a powerful brute of a dish. Impossible to fault in a less ambitious restaurant but, once again, not smart enough for fine dining. Chilled fruit soup with lime and lemongrass syrup, lychee sorbet and champagne provided a nice, clean end to an enjoyable meal, but whereas Voi succeeds in some respects, it fails in others. Though some wily flavour combinations are commendable, the intricacy is not quite there yet, and the expensive ingredients don’t sing in every dish. But what chef Phuong Mai and her team are doing is stimulating and, we’re certain, sure to continue improving. We will be going back.
NEED TO KNOW Location: Zabeel Saray, West Crescent, The Palm, Dubai Tel: (04) 4530444 Web: jumeirah.com Open: daily 7pm to midnight Cuisine type: French colonial/ Vietnamese Must eat: King Henry leaf roll Bill for two: Voi Experience Dhs395
In tweet form... By attempting to lift simple Vietnamese dishes into the realm of fine dining, Voi has embarked on a venture fraught with peril. An exciting restaurant, to be sure. Follow us at @WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 53
EATING OUT
Cook a classic: Yorkshire pudding Rivington Grill head chef Scott Stokes provides a failsafe method for preparing the classic British dish, Yorkshire pudding
INGREDIENTS:
300g flour, 300g (approximately 12) whole eggs, 320ml full fat milk, 15g vegetable oil, pinch of salt, rendered beef fat (vegetable oil can be used as a substitute)
KIT:
Whisk, sieve, large mixing bowl, cake tin or Yorkshire roasting pan, measuring jug, measuring scales
METHOD
Place the flour and salt in the large mixing bowl, make a well in the middle, crack the eggs into the well and whisk them to break up the yolk. Add the milk and whisk all the ingredients together until blended. Pass the mix through a sieve. It should have the consistency of heavy cream. Put the bowl aside and let the batter sit for at least half an hour. Preheat the oven to 215˚C, put the rendered beef fat or vegetable oil in the pan, dividing it evenly between each cup if you’re using a cake tin to make individual puddings. Fill each cup to just below the lip so when the puddings rise they will hold their shape. If all goes well, they should increase considerably in volume. Immediately return the pan to the oven and bake the puddings for 15 minutes, turn the oven down to 175˚C and cook for a further ten to 15 minutes. Do not open the oven door whilst the puddings are cooking. They should have risen and look golden brown when done.
THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YORKSHIRE PUDDING 1 It was traditionally a lot flatter and called dripping pudding 2 The Royal Society Of Chemistry ruled in 2008 that anything less than four inches in height is not a Yorkshire pudding 3 It used to be served as a main course with parsley sauce or white sauce 54 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
TWITTER RECIPE Cooking couldn’t be simpler with our monthly recipe in 140 characters FOIE GRAS CREME BRULEE Heat cream/blend foie gras terrine+raw foie gras w/ white port wine/add cream+mix/once cool add+mix milk+egg yolk/place in dish/heat in oven for 25min Franck Detrait, chef, Traiteur Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, Sun to Fri 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 3172222. Dubai.park.hyatt.com Follow us at @WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi
The connoisseur As she launches a new wine tasting class, Asado’s head sommelier, Andrea Trivino Lira, explains the wines of South America South American wines are a good place for a beginner to start. Its wines are for everybody and are not at all pretentious. The main wine producing countries are Chile and Argentina, though Uruguay produces excellent Tannat. It is very dry in the mouth, but lighter and fruitier than the French variety. I wouldn’t recommend Brazilian still wines, though it’s all down to personal taste, but Moet Chandon has bought vineyards in the south of Brazil, and there are some very good sparkling wines. Most of Chile’s vineyards are in the central valleys of the country, where they have the best conditions for growing with sun, water from the Andes and no phylloxera (an insect that feeds on the roots and leaves of the vines). As a result, Chile produces the best Cabernet Sauvignon in South America. It has a distinct green olive taste, a bit of tobacco, a hint of fruitiness, aromas of cassis and blackcurrant and a spicy finish. If you are going to explore Argentinean wine, start with Malbec. Other varieties are grown, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and even Pinot Noir, but Malbec is the best grape. There is a lot of expression in the fruit, but it is also a very robust wine. It can be complex or light,
depending on whether it has been aged in oak or not. If your Malbec comes from the south of Argentina, where there is a very cool climate, perfect for Pinot Noir – you will find that it’s lighter. But it’s still not a light wine – it has a strong taste of blackcurrant, even petrol sometimes. It’s in the northern central region, for example Mendoza, that you find strong Malbec. Because of the altitude, the grapes are allowed to ripen properly, which makes the Malbec fruitier than the French variety; they have a huge concentration of sugar, and during fermentation a lot of alcohol is produced. It is sometimes as strong as 15 per cent. If you have a stronger Malbec, you should decant it 45 minutes before drinking so it opens up and you don’t miss out on any of the flavours. Torrontés, which is a very aromatic, flowery wine, is the best place to start when it comes to whites. It’s Argentina’s signature white grape in the way Malbec is the signature red. It’s very fine and quite dry. For the best Torrontés, look for bottles that come from the town of Cafayate in the northern province of Salta.
1/2 AD
Asado Wine Club, Asado, The Palace – The Old Town, Emaar Boulevard, The Old Town Island, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, from 6pm, Dhs220. Tel: (04) 8883828. theaddress.com
NEXT MONTH: FRENCH WINES NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 55
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EATING OUT
DEIRA SPICE SOUQ The creekside spice souk sells pretty much any spice you can think of. PICK UP: Spices Deira Spice Souq, creekside, Deira, Dubai
ARMANI/PECK Your first port of call for dinner parties or picnics, Peck offers an impressive range of antipasti, freshly baked bread, charcuterie, European cheeses and pasta. PICK UP: The charcuterie room is a must for dedicated foodies Armani/Peck, Armani Hotel Dubai, Downtown, Dubai, 11am to 11pm. Tel: (04) 8883888. dubai.armanihotels. com
CARLUCCIO’S If you’re cooking Italian, look no further for your recipe staples. PICK UP: Dried pastas, sauces, tins and jars of Italian produce Carluccio’s, The Dubai Mall, Mirdif City Centre and Dubai Marina Mall, Dubai, Sat to Wed to 10am to 10pm, Thurs and Fri 10am to midnight. Tel: (04) 2843728. carluccios. com
ABU DHABI FISH MARKET You will find the freshest seafood in the capital at the Fish Market. The highlight is the cookhouses, which will cook up a couple of your purchases. The earlier you arrive, the fresher the fish. We advise a 6am start. PICK UP: Fresh seafood Abu Dhabi Fish Market, Mina Zayed Port, 31st Street, Abu Dhabi, daily from 6am
DUBAI FISH MARKET If you want fresh, local fish – and dedicated to quality local produce as you are, we know you do – the Dubai Fish Market is your only choice. The best times to visit are 6am or 1am. PICK UP: Fresh seafood Dubai Fish Market, Al Shidagha, near Fruit Market and Hyatt Regency, Dubai, daily from 1am to 11pm
DEANS FUJIYA SUPERMARKET Japanese recipes can involve a few speciality ingredients. If Dubai has them, they are at Deans. PICK UP: We love the mushiki (steamer baskets) Deans Fujiya Supermarket, 4th Street, near Lamcy Plaza, Oud Metha, Dubai, Sat to Thurs 10am to 8.30pm, Fri 5pm to 8.30pm. Tel: (04) 3370401. deanstrading.com
RIPE MARKET With vendors selling everything from locally grown organic fruit and veg to baked goods, cheese, coffee and kitchen knives, Ripe is the real deal. Ripe also offers a veg box delivery service, with a small box costing Dhs80 a week and a large Dhs130. PICK UP: Locally grown organic fruit and veg Ripe Farmers' Market, Dubai Garden Centre, Dubai, Sat 9.30am to 1pm. ripeme.com From Nov 18, Ripe, Farmer’s Market, Desert Garden Centre, Khalifa Park, Abu Dhabi, Fri 9.30am to 1pm. ripeme.com
Quit the supermarket It’s time to start filling your basket with some of the UAE's quality produce
JONES THE GROCER Jones sells a vast range of store cupboard staples, but its real speciality is its selection of coffees, its cheese room and its cold cuts, some of which are local. PICK UP: All the Cs: coffee, cold cuts and cheese Jones the Grocer, Sheikh Zayed Road, opposite Times Square, Dubai, Sun to Thurs 8am to 10.30pm, Fri and Sat 9am to 10.30pm. Tel: (04) 3466886. jonesthegrocer.com Jones the Grocer, various locations, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Thurs 8am to 11pm, Fri and Sat 9am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6395883. jonesthegrocer.com
FARMERS’ MARKET ON THE TERRACE The original Dubai farmers’ market returns this month. PICK UP: Eggs, herbs fresh fruit and veg From Nov 18, Baker & Spice, Souk Al Bahar, Downtown, Dubai, Fri 9am to 3pm. Tel: (04) 4252240. bakerandspiceme.com
BUTCHER’S SHOP & GRILL Not just a reliable steakhouse, BS&G is a quality butcher as well. PICK UP: A 180g rump steak for Dhs81, or some Australian lamb Butcher’s Shop & Grill, Mirdif City Centre, Mall Of The Emirates, JBR, The Walk, Dubai, noon to midnight. Tel: (04) 4281375. thebutchershop.co.za
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 57
EATING OUT
Le Deck
Will this restaurant tempt the masses to the fast-developing Saadiyat Island? All-day dining. Food connoisseurs that you clearly are, you may well have turned the page already, or slipped into a shallow coma at the mere mention of such a stomach-turning term. But, if you have stayed for this third sentence, you will be glad to hear that it isn’t always a dirty catchall for the jack-of-all-trades international buffets omnipresent across the capital. Certainly not where Le Deck is concerned. The flagship restaurant at the gleaming white Monte Carlo Beach Club, one of the few outlets that don’t require a pricey club membership, Le Deck is worth a visit. After all, Monaco, home of the original MCBC, didn’t garner its glitzy reputation serving up interchangeable, unimaginative belly fodder. An airy dining choice during daylight hours, Le Deck exudes an altogether more subterranean charm come dinnertime. Striking skeletal fish models and glowing caged lanterns dominate the alluring dimness, with the terrace looking out towards the paradisiacal beach. Among an appetiser selection awash with seafood and salads, the wonton chicken soup (Dhs55) sticks out like, well, an Asian dish on a European menu, but a far from trivial serving of broth, and a pair of imperious wonton packages ensure our only criticism is that a boa constrictor would break sweat stretching its jaws around its sizeable circumferences. The pan-roasted John Dory (Dhs290), three substantial hunks of flesh balanced atop firm celeriac remoulade beds, encircled with swirls of salty shellfish dressing, is a satisfying flavour
combination, whilst the wagyu tenderloin fillet (Dhs550) from Aussie producer Mayura Station, was as good a steak as you could wish for – almost warranting its price tag. Where Le Deck really wows is dessert. The huge, warm marsala wine sabayon (Dhs60) consisted of a selection of fresh berries buried beneath layers of Italian wine custard. While the chocolate cigar (Dhs60), a thick Havana-worthy cylinder of dark chocolate and nougatine mousse, is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Le Deck’s success might very well hinge on passing custom from visitors frequenting the island’s imminent five-star hotels, which will hardly lack for rival dining options themselves. But whether the aforementioned resorts will match MCBC as a lynchpin of contemporary flair is another matter. One thing’s for sure, Le Deck is elegantly hauling the all-day dining concept into the 21st century, and a steady stream of hungry foodies should soon start to hit the highway to Saadiyat.
NEED TO KNOW Location: Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi Tel: (02) 6563500 Web: montecarlobeachclub.ae Open: daily 7am to 11pm Cuisine type: Mediterranean Must eat: Warm marsala wine sabayon Bill for two: Dhs1,110 without alcohol
Kris With A View The view from Park Regis’ restaurant is nice, but is the food any good?
Perched on the 19th floor of the Park Regis Kris Kin Hotel, the unspoilt 360-degree panorama of Dubai from Kris With A View is quite a selling point. The Sheikh Zayed Road dominated the view from the window we were seated next to. “If you want, you can sit at different table,” joked the waiter. The menu at Kris offers five different types of Asian cuisine: Chinese, Malaysian, Arabic, Indian and Executive Chef Poonsak Sumonratanakul’s native Thai. With so many cuisines to choose from, it's important to decide what you are after from the get go. Having narrowed it down to 'something spicy’ we were advised to try the yam ma muang (Thai mango salad) – which, judging by our tears (spice not joy), was a suitable suggestion – and the excellent Chinese seared shrimps and ginger butternut squash. Unable to decide between the Malaysian-style tenderloin in tamarind sauce and the Chinese steamed diver scallops with vermicelli, we went for a selection of chicken from the tandoor, which turned out to be perfectly cooked. It was a relief to see a dessert and specialist tea menu that replaced the usual suspects – chocolate fondant, crème brulee, etc – with light and refreshing dishes that took advantage of unique Asian fruits and flavours. The sago gula malaka and passion fruit meringues were excellent. It would be hard to improve the setting. However, despite the quality of the dishes we tried, five cuisines is a little baffling.
In tweet form...The view is stunningly romantic, but bear in mind what cuisine you're after before you go Follow us at @WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi
NEED TO KNOW
In tweet form... Le Deck is the first restaurant to truly begin to showcase Saadiyat Island's potential, and in idyllic surroundings Follow us at @ WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi 58 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
Location: Park Regis Kris Kin Hotel, Bur Dubai, Dubai Tel: (04) 3771111 Web: kris.ae Open: 6pm to midnight Cuisine type: Pan-Asian Must eat: Rendang baka utara Bill for two: Dhs450 (without alcohol)
EATING OUT
Siddharta Lounge by Buddha Bar Buddha Bar’s latest Dubai venture sure does look the business, so does the food hit the same heights? The latest treasure to be unveiled at Grosvenor House’s Tower Two, Siddharta Lounge by Buddha Bar, will only be open to you, the regular punter, for dinner between 5pm and midnight – and only if you have made a table reservation. Still, Siddharta is sure to be a hit with Dubai’s trendy, socialite set who will lap up the private lift, the swimming pool and the exclusive vibe of the place. And surprisingly, considering the glitzy clientele it’s so clearly aimed at – the staff wear gold and white outfits straight out of a Star Trek movie to match the décor – it’s actually a pleasant environment in which to dine. Exceedingly so, in fact, with its attentive service, low-lying Japanese-style tables, comfortable sofa seating, and perfect lighting and sound levels. It is, as promised, a lounge – it feels like sitting in somebody’s living room. The menu is designed to be enjoyed amongst company over a few bottles of the excellent Medoc or a couple of the signature cocktails – only slightly diminished by the plastic glasses. Comprised of a series of small plates, sandwiches, stir-fries and skewers, it’s aiming for high-end bar food, rather than formal restaurant fare. And what seem like terribly expensive dishes as you’re ordering turn out to be just a little bit pricy due to the sharing concept.
Hamachi carpaccio in a soy and lime dressing delivered a refreshing citrus bite, tortilla from the tapas menu provided a tasty bit of bulk and smoked salmon bruschetta with crème fraiche, chives and capers was as you would expect from such a classic canapé combination. The duck dumpling soup with enoki mushroom and pak choi had an unfortunate air of Cup-a-Soup about it, but the crab cake, cheddar and Cajun spice mini burgers were moist and deliciously fishy, while the portly sambal prawns were cooked well and tossed in a nice spicy sauce. The mixed meat satay skewers were expensive at Dhs120 for six (two beef, two lamb, two chicken), but the meat didn’t suffer from overcooking as it so often does when grilled in tiny morsels on a long cocktail stick. To finish, a papaya and coconut crumble with star anise custard, which could so easily have been a disastrous combination of flavours, was actually a clever merger of sweetness, distinctive liquorice bitterness and coconut crunch. There was nothing to complain about, really. Siddharta is a lovely place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a nibble, and the
An impressive setting, but does the food live up to it?
Things started off well with a triumvirate of sashimi, including some finely sliced flounder, pudgy jumbo shrimp and sweet abalone – though the latter had not been divested of a few bits of inedible membrane, which was unpleasant. The deep-fried soft shell crab was a little greasy, but tasty nevertheless. A plate of wagyu tenderloin chunks were beautifully rare in the centre, but grey and pallid on the outside where there should have been a delicious burnt taste from searing on the teppanyaki griddle.
In tweet form... Radisson Royal Hotel could be a popular dining, drinking and partying spot. Three F&B with spectacular views. Order Icho’s duck smoke pot. Follow us at @WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi 60 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
Location: Grosvenor House Dubai, Tower Two, Dubai Marina, Dubai Tel: (04) 3176000 Web: grosvenorhouse-dubai.com Open: daily 5pm to midnight Cuisine type: Mediterranean/Asian/ international Must eat: spicy sambal prawn Bill for two: Dhs645 without alcohol menu, whilst nothing to rave about, boasts a couple of stand out dishes – and quite a few forgettable ones – that slip down nicely with a beverage or two.
In tweet form... Siddharta Lounge by Buddha Bar offers a menu of high-end bar nibbles with a few tasty gems thrown in and is ideal for an evening of drinks with your pals. Follow us at @WhatsOnDubai and @WhatsOnAbuDhabi
Icho
Opening a restaurant spread over three vast floors in the upper reaches of a Sheikh Zayed Road hotel is ambitious, and potentially dangerous. Just because you’ve built it doesn’t mean they will come, contrary to what Shoeless Joe whispered to big Kev Costner in Field Of Dreams. But Radisson Blu, the brand that has recently taken over what was the JAL hotel, has done just that. The result, Icho, is nothing if not impressive. The 51st floor is a sultry, if currently a bit empty, lounge bar with spectacular views of the city; the 50th is dedicated to teppanyaki; and the 49th is the main restaurant. Its minimalist, almost brutalist, design is right up our street, but without the required throng of diners it feels cold and echoey. People will remedy that, but will they come?
NEED TO KNOW
A garlicky rice dish was nice, but the mistreatment of such a fine cut of meat was disappointing. As was a dish of udon noodles in a flavoursome broth – ruined by what should have been excellent shrimp tempura, but was, thanks to its soupy bath, soggy and tasteless. We also drank a pretty dreadful pinot grigio, but there was a saving grace. The signature smoke pot contained supple slices of duck so infused with BBQ we could almost smell the smoke wafting into our nostrils. Outstanding. With the garlic rice as a side and three portions of refreshing mochi ice cream to finish off, you would leave happy. Icho! Excuse us.
NEED TO KNOW Location: Radisson Royal Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai Tel: (04) 3080000 Web: radissonblu.com Open: 6pm to 3am Cuisine type: Japanese Must eat: duck smoke pot Bill for two: Dhs780 without alcohol
THE CHEF
POTATOES STUFFED WITH STILTON, LEEK AND MUSHROOMS (SERVES FOUR)
INGREDIENTS Sea salt, pepper, four large baking potatoes, 50g of butter (plus an extra knob), 100g button mushrooms (quartered), one large leek (sliced), 100g cream cheese (room temperature), 100g to 175g Stilton cheese METHOD Heat the oven to 200˚C. Lightly sprinkle the baking tray with sea salt. Prick the potatoes and place on the tray. Bake for 75 to 90 minutes until cooked through. Meanwhile, melt the knob of butter in a large pan and, once sizzling, add the mushrooms and fry for one to two minutes until they begin to soften and colour. Stir in the leek and continue to cook for a further two minutes until tender, then season with salt and pepper. Halve the potatoes, scooping out the flesh into a bowl and saving the skins. Fork lightly to a crumbly texture, season and stir in the 50g of butter and the cream cheese, before folding in the leek and the mushrooms. Fill the skins with the mixture, place the potatoes back on the tray and crumble the Stilton over the top. Bake in the oven until the cheese has melted.
This month, Gary Rhodes, our columnist, chef, TV personality and the man behind Dubai’s Rhodes Mezzanine and Rhodes Twenty10, provides you with a quick meat-free supper dish
This month, I’ve chosen a vegetarian dish. I’ve never been one of those chefs who dislikes cooking for vegetarians, and any chef or restaurant that doesn’t cater to them is being foolish. A lot of great dishes can be created without using meat – including these very simple stuffed potatoes. Anyone can enjoy it, of course, and because it doesn’t require many ingredients, it’s easy and extremely versatile – you could have it for lunch, as a snack or for dinner. This is a simple dish, but just that little bit different. It’s not hard to prepare for several people, or too much effort to make for just one or two. I pop the potatoes in the oven – remembering to prick the skins to let the steam out and prevent the potatoes from splitting, of course – and head off for a quick shower. When I come back, they’re ready to go. The only difference when I cook it at home is that my wife doesn’t like blue cheese, so I have to use something else. If you’re not a Stilton fan, there are plenty of blue cheeses out there, and a nice Gorgonzola works particularly well.
“THIS IS A SIMPLE DISH, BUT JUST THAT LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. IT'S NOT HARD TO PREPARE FOR SEVERAL PEOPLE” If you don’t like blue cheese at all, like my wife, grated Gruyere or a good cheddar or Lancashire could replace the Stilton. These types of textures and strength of flavours would work really well. You don’t have to stick stringently to the recipe with this dish. If you were going to eat it as a side for a larger meal, the lighter cheeses
would also be preferable to the strong blue cheese. The potatoes would also go well with a salad on the side, perhaps, with a few grapes, apple and celery sticks – the traditional accompaniments for cheese. This is one of my go to dishes when I don’t want to spend hours cooking dinner, and I hope it now becomes one of yours.
NEXT MONTH: DUCK, BACON AND ONION QUICHE NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 63
EATING OUT
Capital menus Seek out these three menus – all new to the capital this month
Tim Hortons Dubai is overrun with coffee shops chains – from Starbucks to Costa and beyond. So it’s peculiar that Canadian coffee shop and café Tim Hortons has gathered quite a cult following since its recent arrival on Sheikh Zayed Road. But we have been assured by a friendly Canadian of our acquaintance that ‘Timmy’s’, as it’s affectionately known in the land of Bryan Adams, makes a habit of inspiringdevotion from its many patrons. Why? Timbits. Timmy’s sells coffee, baked goods, sarnies, wraps and soups, which are all reliable and wallet-friendly lunchtime staples, but it’s the café’s
Indo Thai
EVERYONE'S TALKING ABOUT
trademarked mini doughnuts that have earned Tim Hortons its reputation. We tried some Timbits, and we have to admit, we’re fans. Nice work, Tim.
Tim Hortons, Sheikh Zayed Road, opposite Financial Centre metro station, Dubai, daily 7am to 11pm. Tel: (800) 8467. timhortons.com
NEW LUNCH
Try out the new lunch menu at Radisson Royal’s Thai fusion restaurant FOOD: There’s a choice of two courses (starter/main or main/dessert) or three courses (starter/main/dessert), and quite a range of options, too. From the list of six starters and three soups, we tried a wonderful tom yum goong with just the right amount of lemongrass and some simple and succulent chicken wrapped in pandan leaves. Of the eight mains, we took the waiter’s advice and ordered a fish pathori, which despite a green coconut sauce was surprisingly bland, and lemongrass grilled chicken, which also lacked flavour. Dessert was sago (a Vietnamese porridge), which used a surprising, and delightful, home-made peanut ice cream along with tapioca filling. 64 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
ATMOSPHERE: Dimly lit, even at lunchtime, Indo Thai is not the most inviting of restaurants, but a table by the window offers a bit of daylight and a view of Sheikh Zayed Road. PRICE: Two courses Dhs99, three courses Dhs129 WHAT’S ON SAYS: Ideal for a quick, cheap business lunch. Indo Thai, Radisson Royal Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, daily 1pm to 3pm, two courses Dhs99, three courses Dhs129. Tel: (04) 3080000. radissonblu.com
BBQ Al Qasr
Blue Grill
Mezzaluna
CUISINE: Barbecue MENU: Celebrate the cooler weather in this magical and recently reopened, setting, best experienced in a romantic cabana mere metres from the shoreline. Honey BBQ glazed organic wings (Dhs80) kick things off nicely, followed by apple wood-smoked veal spare ribs and sticky chipotle honey sauce (Dhs160), resplendent with numerous sides. Leave room for dessert: the caramel vacherin (Dhs60) is a meringue-dripping caramel fudge ice cream mountain peak. Not an everyday expense, but the view alone provides ample compensation. PRICE: Dhs600 for two without alcohol, or choose from three different four-course set menus (Dhs450, Dhs550 or Dhs650).
CUISINE: Steak MENU: Saadiyat might be about to stake its claim as the capital’s new culinary centre, but our favourite Abu Dhabi steakhouse keeps the flag flying for Yas. Start with the grandiosely presented half dozen oysters on the half shell (Dhs75). Big guns come out at this juncture: the imposing butcher’s platter (Dhs255) shows scant regard for trifling details such as daily allowances, serving up (deep breath, try not to have a coronary) juicy tenderloin and rib-eye steak, lamb chops, chicken breast and chorizo, plus sides. You’re pretty much guaranteed to go home full. PRICE: Dhs750 for two without alcohol.
CUISINE: Italian MENU: Recipes passed down through generations are part and parcel of Italian cooking’s enduring charm, a tradition kept alive and well at Mezzaluna. The standout dish is the pizzoccheri (Dhs90), a temptingly dark green buckwheat pasta creation allegedly based (they always are) on a recipe by restaurant manager Luigi Sacchet’s grandmother. Deep-sea scallops (Dhs115) with juniper berries offer a fruity take on the classic starter. PRICE: Dhs540 for two without alcohol, or choose from three different fourcourse set menus (Dhs450, Dhs550 or Dhs650).
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, 6.30pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6907999. emiratespalace.com
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Yas Island Rotana, Golf Abu Dhabi, lunch 12.30pm to 3pm, Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Mon to Sat 7pm dinner 7pm to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6564000. rotana.com emiratespalace.com
WHAT’S ON AWARDS 2011: VOTE NOW! The biggest and most prestigious food and drink awards of the year are upon us again. Who’ll win? You decide… Every year since 2001, we, the UAE’s biggest-selling entertainment magazine, have given you, the people, the chance to choose your favourite Dubai restaurants. This year marks the decade anniversary of the What’s On Awards, and we promise to celebrate the occasion in style with the best awards yet. But first, you have to do your job and vote. You will find voting cards in the nominated restaurants, so next time you dine at your favourite Italian, Japanese or European, make sure you fill in the card. It will take less than a minute, and for a few seconds of your time you could be rewarded with a getaway to the beautiful Seychelles. And it is stunning – we’ve been there many times and never grow sick of the pristine beaches, clear, warm waters of the Indian Ocean and some of the friendliest people on this fine earth. If you don’t have time to fill in the voting card, you can vote online at whatsonawards.com. We know that you’re up to the task, because more than two million of you lovely people have voted since the first What’s On Awards. It is you who make our awards special – the deciding factor in the only people’s choice awards in the UAE. Last year, Zuma was the only restaurant to take home two awards, but with La Petite Maison winning the Best Newcomer award – chosen by us, Team What’s On – and former Verre chef Scott Price, who recently launched his own restaurant Table 9 with cohort Nick Alvis, winning our new Chef Of The Year award, competition will be fierce in 2011. This year’s award ceremony promises to be the grandest to date. Held alfresco at Dubai Media City Amphitheatre, the scene of last year’s successful event, it will be one of the social events of the year. And you can attend on November 27, with tickets available for Dhs475 at the new What's On box office online. So press your finest suit or cocktail dress, polish your heals (ladies only, of course), fold your pocket squares, pre-knot your ties and come and enjoy our favourite night of the year – the What’s On Awards.
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NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 65
WIN! DINNER FOR FOUR AT NA3NA3
menu
The latest openings, insider info, events, recommendations, giveaways and more
WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT, ALFIE? NEW OPENING
Luxury men’s fashion is what normally springs to mind when one thinks of the Alfred Dunhill brand, which is why we are quietly excited by the news that Alfie’s, Dunhill’s restaurant and lounge concept – already popular in Shanghai and Hong Kong – will be opening beside Dunhill’s Emirates Towers branch in January. Alfie’s, The Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers. dunhill.com
HEALTHY CHEF
In the UAE, it is all too easy to eat badly. So if you’re a calorie counter, your toned stomach will growl with delight at the news that Madinat Jumeirah has appointed chef Gabi Kurz as its new “well-being” chef to devise healthy dining menus across the resort’s restaurants and Talise spa. Madinat Jumeirah, Jumeirah, Dubai. jumeirah.com
Mirchi
NEW Opening an Indian restaurant OPENING in an already crowded UAE market might not seem the greatest of ideas, but as Mirchi is opening its fourth branch, we’ll take it they know something we don’t. Besides, we love Indian cuisine. Arabian Centre, Al Khawaneej Road, Dubai. Tel: (04) 2393330. mirchidubai.com
Faulty Towers
If you haven’t seen John Cleese’s 1970s comedy Fawlty Towers, you haven’t lived. Forget Little Britain or Gavin & Stacey; Fawlty Towers is the greatest British comedy show ever. Things didn’t always go well in the hotel restaurant for the show’s star, Basil Fawlty, but Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience [their spelling], coming to the UAE for seven shows, is sure to be an amusing night out. Two hours of entertainment accompanied by a slap up three-course meal. Just don’t mention the war. We mentioned it once, but we think we got away with it. Nov 1 to 6, Arabian Courtyard Hotel, Al Fahidi Street, Dubai, 1pm or 7pm, Dhs395 for a dinner show, Dhs295 for lunch show. Tel: (04) 3519111. arabiancourtyard.com
Verre today, gone tomorrow Gordon Ramsay’s Verre is out – and Table 9 is in
NEW OPENING
Gordon Ramsay’s Dubai restaurant is no more – after more than a decade, Verre at Hilton Dubai Creek closed on October 28. But don’t fear, diners of Dubai, we don’t need Gordon – not when we have his former protégés Scott Price and Nick Alvis, and their new restaurant, Table 9 By Nick And Scott. Promising to be a cooler and altogether livelier and more modern affair than the formal fine dining Verre once offered, Scott and Nick are promising to breathe new life into the UAE dining scene with Table 9. With a menu of small plates for casual diners, tasting menus for those looking for something a bit grander, sommelier Rahul Dua offering 50 wines served by the glass, and a tie up with Mojo Gallery and local ceramic artist Homa Farley, Table 9 could be exactly what Dubai needs – a restaurant imagined right here, rather than by an international brand. “We’re really trying to make things local. We have a local gallery supplying art, and a local ceramic artist making crockery. We didn’t want to bring in stuff from outside because Dubai has lots to offer and we want to show it off,” says Scott. That’s certainly enough to excite us, and we’ll be booking a table as soon as it opens on November 9 (see what they did there?).
Truffle season Autumn in Italy means one thing – truffle season. But you don’t need to jump on a plane to be able to enjoy them. Jones The Grocer has rolled out a truffle-focused dinner menu (Dhs139). While Sloane’s at Grosvenor House Dubai will dedicate a month of brunches to truffles (Dhs220). Also on our radar is new chef Daniele Capobianco's arrival at Radisson Blu’s Certo. Capobianco is from truffle-rich Umbria, so it’ll be worth a visit for his truffle-inspired menu. Finally, Giorgio Locatelli recently paid a visit to Atlantis, creating numerous truffle dishes for Ronda Locatelli's November menu. Jones The Grocer, various locations, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Tel: (04) 3466886. jonesthegrocer.com Sloane’s, Grosvenor House Dubai, Tower One, Dubai Marina, Fri 1pm to 4pm, Dhs220 without alcohol. Tel: (04) 3998888. grosvenorhouse-dubai.com Nov 13 to 26, Certo, Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City, Dubai, 12.30pm to 3.30pm and 7pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (04) 366 9111. radissonblu.com Ronda Locatelli, Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, daily noon to 3pm, Sun to Fri 3pm to 6pm, Sat to Wed 6pm to 10.30pm, Thurs and Fri 6pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (04) 4262626. atlantisthepalm.com 66 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
For a chance to win dinner for four at the fantastic new Thursday seafood night on the terrace at The Address Dubai Mall’s Arabic restaurant Na3Na3, simply e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with Na3Na3 in the subject line and tell us… Where are Australians famous for chucking some shrimps? a) on the barbie b) on the ken c) in a Le Creuset pot
New Abu Dhabi Brunches Roll up, roll up, new brunches for all. Competition for your custom on a Friday lunchtime in Abu Dhabi has stepped up a notch with a whole host of new contenders vying for your time and hard earned dirhams. The Crowne Plaza’s Spaccanapoli (from Dhs115) goes head-to-head with Filini at the Radisson Blu Hotel (Dhs190) in the all-you-can-eat Italian buffet category, while the Yas Island Rotana throws Indian a la carte restaurant Rangoli (Dhs159) and Blue Grill’s AAA meat-fest into the ring (Dhs175). Le Royal Méridien’s multi-restaurant brunch, meanwhile, offers an international spread of cuisine from BBQ restaurant Al Fanr, Italian restaurant Amalfi and Japanese-Asian noodle spot Soba (Dhs209). And, finally, Le Deck at the much-talked-about Monte Carlo Beach Club is offering its Monte Carlo Tapas brunch featuring both buffet and a la carte “international tapas” dishes. Spaccanopoli, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, noon to 4pm, Dhs115 without alcohol. Tel: (02) 6166261. ichotelsgroup.com Filini, Radisson Blu Hotel, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs190.Tel: (02) 6562000. radissonblu.com Yas Island Rotana, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, noon to 3pm Rangoli, Dhs159, Blue Grill Dhs175. Tel: (02) 6564000. rotana.com Le Royal Méridien, Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Khalifa Street, Abu Dhabi, noon to 4pm, Dhs209. Tel: (02) 6742020. leroyalmeridienabudhabi.com Le Deck, Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 1pm to 4pm, Dhs445, Dhs265 without alcohol. (02) 6563500. montecarlobeachclub.ae
HAPPY NATIONAL DAY!
The UAE celebrates its 40th birthday on December 2. Commemorate National Day with a visit to one of these Emirati dining establishments
AL-FANAR
MEZLAI
Celebrate in grand style at Emirates Palace’s high-end Emirati restaurant with local specialities and delicacies such as shark soup. Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Thurs 1pm to 10.30pm, Fri 7pm to 10pm, brunch 2pm to 5pm. Tel: (02) 6907999. kempinski.com
EMIRATI N MORE
Put your National Day feast in the hands of brothers Khalid and Faisal Al Romaithi. They are on a mission to bring Emirati cuisine to the masses. Cassells Hotel, Al Barsha, Dubai, noon to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm. Tel: (04) 4084777
NEW The recently opened OPENING Al-Fanar promises Emirati fine dining at its 15,000sqft restaurant at Dubai Festival City. Al-Fanar, Dubai Festival City, Dubai, Sun to Weds 11am to midnight, Thurs to Sat 10am to 1am. Tel: (04) 2329966
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The new Friday Brunch. A weekend to remember.
Flavours on Two restaurant brings you a special leisure brunch. Come and enjoy the music in a relaxed atmosphere amongst friends. Our chefs have created a lavish spread of sumptuous irresistible choices by blending the best of east and west. Seafood variety from the seven seas. Fine sushi selection. Cosmopolitan buffet blending east and west cuisine……..and more to come
“Chill out and enjoy the music”. Fridays from 12:30 to 16:00 hours. Last call beverages 15:30 hours. Starting from the 7th of October 2011. Special discount for table of 4 For more information please call 00 971 (0) 4 312 2201 or visit www.rotanatimes.com P.O. Box 30430 Dubai U.A.E T : 00 971 (0) 4 312 2201 | F: 00 971 (0) 4 312 2207 fb.towers@rotana.com
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 67
WIN! WIN! WIN! Do you and your friends want to come to our party?
To enter this fantastic competition, just e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with WHAT’S ON AWARDS in the subject line and the correct answer to the question
WIN! A TABLE FOR TEN AT THE WHAT’S ON AWARDS One lucky winner and nine of their friends will be joining the elite of Dubai’s entertainment scene at this month’s What’s On Awards. Taking place under the stars at the stunning Media City Amphitheatre on November 27, the evening will include live music, fantastic food and a host of hotly contested categories being fought out. Tickets are available for Dhs475 per person, so this fantastic prize is worth a whopping Dhs4,750. If you’d like the chance to dress up, mingle with the city’s great and good, and dance into the night – and take nine friends along for fun – simply tell us… Which of the following is not a category in the What’s On Awards? To buy tickets a) Best Newcomer for the What’s On b) Favourite European Restaurant Awards visit whatsonboxoffice.com c) The Tastiest Sarnie We Ate All Year 68 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
COURTESY OF THE ARTIST NABIL SAFWAT AND TOTAL ARTS, THE COURTYARD
ARTS
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Open for business Off the wall Fair trade The Art Insider Five to see
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ARTS
Open for business Al Quoz isn’t Dubai’s only premier art destination – DIFC, the city’s business district, is home to a burgeoning art scene of its own. Here are six good reasons to visit... THE EMPTY QUARTER GALLERY
One of the region’s few dedicated photography galleries, Empty Quarter specialises in a rolling international exhibition programme of established, archive and up-and-coming photographic artists. Plus there’s a great on-site bookshop, too. www.theemptyquarter.com
THE FARJAM COLLECTION
This extensive private collection features premium displays of the best of the region’s recent and historical art and collectibles. It also offers a comprehensive education programme and lectures relating to current exhibitions. The summer art camps for kids come highly recommended. www.farjamcollection.org
AYYAM GALLERY DIFC
The second Dubai outpost of one of Syria’s most acclaimed contemporary art galleries mines the same rich seam as its Al Quoz predecessor – highly regarded group and solo shows from leading Syrian artists. www.ayyamgallery.com
OPERA GALLERY
A truly international gallery (there are Operas in the world’s leading art capitals) – expect to see anything from the latest 'big thing' from the Far East to retrospectives of 20th century heavyweights from Picasso to Warhol. www.operagallery.com
ART SAWA
Champions of art and artists from the Middle East and Sub-Continent, Sawa works hard 72 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
AYYAM GALLERY DIFC
to curate an original exhibition programme that draws on leading regional talent. Its great space works particularly well with installations and sculpture. www.artsawa.com
XVA GALLERY
Earlier this year, what is arguably Bastakiya’s foremost contemporary art gallery expanded its scope to DIFC. Now showing programmes across both galleries, its heavy-hitters are showcased in this exciting new space. A welcome addition to DIFC’s art gang. xvagallery.com
AND FOR A LITTLE EXTRA SPICE...
Art Nights at DIFC offer an evening of all things art and culture across DIFC’s Gate Village as the area’s galleries (which also include the longstanding ArtSpace and esteemed Cuadro Fine Art galleries) throw open their doors after hours. Dedicated events, installations and ‘happenings’ also mark the Nights as ones to remember, as anyone who saw local light installation artist James Clar’s piece for Art Dubai open last month will attest. Now quarterly events, look out for the next one in January – it promises to be a night to remember.
Off the wall Italian Luxury Interiors takes place at Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah this month. Exhibitors and Italian mosaic specialists Fantini Mosaici reveal the tricks of the trade
Mosaic has a strong tradition in art, as well as design. Is your work more art or design? We hand-make pieces of art, we look more into the details of the aesthetic, beauty and quality of our products. Every work is unique, in its material and design. That said, every piece of work we do should represent design at its most functional and most beautiful. In short, it is both. Bespoke design is only available to the lucky few – what’s in it for the rest of us? Luxury today is a quality that lasts over time; excellence that can be only be achieved if mastered into perfection. There is a limit to what technology can do, but no limit to artisans who pride themselves on techniques passed down through generations and who devoted their life to perfection of their craftsmanship. This should be appreciated highly. You’re currently working on the interiors for Palazzo Versace – any secrets you can share? The secrets are in the hands of our artisans, they have the key to make any project authentic. It is the human team that adds the secrets. All the designs of this promising hotel are inspired by Greek Mythology. Nov 27 to 30. fantinimosaici.it
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VOTE BEFORE NOV. 9 AT WHATSONAWARDS.COM AND YOU COULD WIN A SEYCHELLES GETAWAY FOR TICKET SALES, VISIT WHATSONBOXOFFICE.COM The UAE’s best-selling entertainment magazine brings you the Emirates’ longest-running and most prestigious restaurant and entertainment awards. Terms & conditions apply.
ARTS
Fair trade
The third outing for the capital’s very own art fair hasn’t just grown up – it’s outgrown its previous home. Formerly gracing the golden environs of Emirate’s Palace, this year Abu Dhabi Art sets up shop on Saadiyat Island’s Cultural District – soon-to-be home to the Middle East’s very own Guggenheim and Louvre galleries. Building on last year’s success, the fair’s focus remains on galleries representing art from the MENA region alongside a sprinkling of Western contemporary art heavy-hitters (including London’s White Cube). With special sections dedicated to up-and-coming galleries and artists, a dedicated design sector and a full programme of events, it promises to be an excellent day out for the region’s art lovers. Nov 16 to 19, Saadiyat Island Cultural District, Abu Dhabi. abudhabiartfair.ae
News Flash The Dunes are Alive...Again
A Night at the Museum
When it comes to musicals it seems as though, for UAE audiences at least, the oldies are definitely the best if news that Popular Productions’ staging of that Rogers and Hammerstein classic, The Sound Of Music, is returning to Dubai for its second outing in less than 12 months is anything to go by. On show at the Madinat Theatre for just nine performances, if you missed it last time, now’s your chance. Nov 12, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, Dhs175, Tel: 08004669. soundofmusicdubai.com
It won’t come as a surprise to anyone to hear that a new gallery is opening in Al Serkal Avenue – the Al Quoz industrial compound has long been a focus of the city’s independent art scene. But a museum? That’s definitely a first. The Salsali Private Museum opens its doors on November 13 to showcase the private collection of Iranian-born collector Ramin Salsali. Featuring mainly contemporary Middle Eastern art and artists, Salsali’s aim is to shine a light on the cultural treasures of the region. Bring it on, we say. salsalipm.com
Turtle Power Illustrator Suzie Keeble will be launching her new children’s book Tina the Turtle (written by Grace Todino-Gonqeut) at the Majlis Gallery accompanied by a live sea turtle, courtesy of the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Programme. The three-hour Turtle Saturday event kicks off at 10am sharp on November 19. With a competition to name the turtle and the chance to win a signed copy of the book, this is one day out your kids won’t want to miss. themajlisgallery.com
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THE ART INSIDER
Five minutes with... Installation artist Ergin Çavusoglu
Art historian, dedicated collector and managing director of Dubai’s Meem Gallery, Charles Pocock knows the UAE art scene like the back of a Picasso. Do you have an art question for Charles? E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae Abu Dhabi Art, the leading art fair in the region, returns on this month, and I for one am excited – as everybody should be. It will be held at a new venue on Saadiyat Island, the UAE Pavilion from the Shanghai Expo 2010 designed by Foster + Partners. And the roster of galleries exhibiting is seriously impressive, including international names such as Gagosian, White Cube, Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac and Lisson Gallery. From the MENA region there is Kamel Mennour, Galerie Sfeir-Semler, Meem Gallery, Gallery IVDE and Third Line. The list of exhibiting artists features such luminaries as Jeff Koons, Ai Weiwei, Dia Al Azzawi, Adel Abdessemed, Martin Creed and Anish Kapoor. As well as sprinkling some stardust on the UAE art scene, education is an integral factor at the fair and there will be talks, discussions and events with leading international 76 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
artists, gallerists, collectors and curators, including Larry Gagosian, Jeff Koons and Sarah Morris. Themes will include the impact of the UAE Venice Biennale Pavilion, and Abu Dhabi Art Talk: From Local Art Scene to Global Art World. A series titled Abu Dhabi Art Conversations will consist of moderated discussions with leading art world professionals, and confirmed speakers include David Zwirner, Dia Azzawi, Adel Abdessemed, Mahmoud Obaidi, Ramin and Rokni Haerizadeh. These speakers will share insight into their creative and professional processes, discuss their careers and formative backgrounds, present current bodies of work, and introduce new projects and ventures. There will be educational workshops for all ages, a dedicated art space for children aged between two and 12, and the return of the Abu Dhabi Art Library, with books on loan from the private collection of the Al Noor Library. It is clear that Abu Dhabi Art has made a commitment to quality, from the galleries exhibiting and the work they contain to the education programme’s lectures, and workshops catering to all. The fair is giving the audience what it thirst for – high culture in a format all can enjoy, participate in, learn from and be inspired by. Just what the UAE needs right now.
Your new work is called Dust Breeding – what does it mean? The work is primarily based on sculptural models I created as a response to a site where I filmed a video installation project entitled Silent Glide. The location was the largest cement factory in Turkey called Nuh (Noah). The sense of entrapment while being on the site when filming the project is translated literally in the context of the perspective and the way the audiences at The Pavilion will interact with it. How do you think Dubai audiences will relate to the work? The surrounding cityscape of Dubai resonates directly in the structural aspect of the work. I would call the work site-specific both in the way it looks as well as in the ways it mirrors the fabric of the city. You were born in Bulgaria of Turkish heritage and are based in London – how has that influenced you? I was born and grew up in Bulgaria as part of the Turkish minority during the Communist regime. I’ve since lived and studied in Istanbul and London. Relating to my own past inevitably the ideas of mobility and liminality* are often prevalent in my practice. Describe Dust Breeding in three words Non-existing sculpture. * In case you left your dictionary at home, this refers to a state of living between two different existential planes. Yes, we had to look it up too… Until Dec 3, The Pavilion, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 4477025. pavilion.ae
Under the Patronage of His Highness General Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces TDIC presents
EMIRATI EXPRESSIONS 19 October 2011 – 28 January 2012 Manarat Al Saadiyat Saadiyat, Abu Dhabi
SAVE THE DATE Artscape Emirati, 29 November 2011
saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae
ARTS
Five to see
ÅSEASONAL LANDSCAPE AND WONDERING IN NATURE
It’s the Emirates as you’ve never seen the. The landscapes of the UAE get a European-style makeover in this exhibition of paintings by Nabil Safwat, whose brushworks combines something of the stylistic sensibilities of the likes of Impressionist greats, Monet and Turner. Intriguing stuff. Until Nov 15, Total Arts, The Courtyard, Al Quoz 3, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3475050. courtyard-uae.com
ÉDISCONNECTED
This Third Line gallery spin-off continues to impress as it goes about its mission to champion up-and-coming local talent in its latest exhibition. Disconnected is a series of works by Pakistani photographer Izdeyar Setna that investigates the recent social and political upheavals in the city of Karachi through a series of disturbingly simple, yet dramatic, portraits. Nov 10 to 12, January, Projects, The Third Line, Al Quoz 3, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 3411367. thethirdline.com
ÑNOTHING, NOBODY
Large-scale ink paintings on paper and video installations form the basis of this solo show by Iraqi artist Sadik Kwaish Alfraji. His anonymous everyman figure illustrates the artist’s philosophical musings on life and the plight of humanity in a manner that is both thought provoking and quietly beautiful. Until Dec 15, Ayyam Gallery DIFC, Building 3, Gate Village, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 4392395. ayyamgallery.com 78 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
ÅMIND’S EYE
Mixing elements of high Ottoman and traditional Turkish folk art with influences from Western greats from Manet to Matisse, Turkish artist Selma Gürbüz’s first solo show in the region is nothing if not ambitious. Featuring works on canvas alongside more delicate inks on paper, Gürbüz’s finely detailed and lyrical work makes this one cross-cultural melting pot worth seeing. Until Dec 7, Lawri Shabibi Gallery, Unit 21, Al Serkal Avenue, Al Quoz, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 3469906. lawrishabibi.com
ÇEMIRATI EXPRESSIONS
This major exhibition of UAE art and artists continues on Abu Dhabi’s Saadiyat Island. If you can, coincide your visit with something from the extensive programme, workshops, or talks that run throughout the month. For something really special, Artscape Emirati will be presented on November 29 as part of the National Day celebrations and promises an evening of music, poetry performance art and interactive family workshops. Until Jan 28, Manarat Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, free. artsabudhabi.ae
CASEMATE.COM
SHOPPING
p82 Which craft? p85 The perfect fit p86 Shop talk NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 81
SHOPPING
Which craft?
In a land of big brands and shiny shops, the UAE is in need of a handmade touch and some home-spun charm. With the rise of website Etsy.com where crafty types can sell their wares (and comedy spin-off, Regretsy), crafts have gone from granny territory to hipster hobby. So we’ve shunned the malls and met the experts to bring you the best classes, shops, stalls, markets and more
GETTING STARTED You’ll need a basic level of skill before you start your first project, as well as some materials and equipment. The best place to start is an education centre where instructors will either provide everything you need or give you a shopping list.
from beginner's crochet and an introduction to machine sewing to hand embroidery, clubs for knitters and a quilting clinic. Buy a sewing machine and you'll get a course free of charge. Town Centre, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3422237. mycraftland.com
CRAFT LAND A haven for all things material, Craft Land is packed with a rainbow of ribbons, rolls of hand-dyed fabric, yarns, buttons, zippers, accessories and just about everything you need to start your new career as a crafter. Sewing machines are available to buy, and there’s a technician in-store should you need repairs to your machine, but if you’re taking part in one of the many workshops then you can hire one. Classes range
CREATIVE HANDS If you need stickers, stencils, stamps, and, above all, card, then Creative Hands is the shop for you. Offering everything you could possibly require for card making and decoupage, the shop is packed with inspiration, with owner Annais at the helm, and the heart, of the paper crafting community. Green Community, Dubai. Tel: (04) 8849343. creativehandsdubai.com
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PAPER LANE A go-to store if you’re keen to start scrapbooking (the art of preserving photos, letters and 2D souvenirs to the uninitiated), this charming store is full of the paper, card, books, ink, stamps, paint and tools needed for your new hobby. Paper Lane also runs three-hour workshops on Saturdays (normally around Dhs175 per session) to get you started and meet other crafters. Town Centre, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3443633. dubaiscrapbookstore.com DUCTAC Well-known for its drama classes, you can also learn textile collage, mosaic, henna crafts, jewellery design and sculpture at DUCTAC. The four-session pottery on the wheel course costs Dhs600 and takes place on
Wednesday evenings and Saturday mornings. Mall Of The Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3414777. ductac.org TASHKEEL Primarily a gallery with studios for artists, Tashkeel also runs a number of courses. Many are designbased, with classes in calligraphy, laser cutting, screen-printing and fashion design. Our pick of the upcoming semester is a six-week workshop on large-scale modern sculpture (starting November 14) where, during three-hour sessions, creative types of all abilities can learn about the art form and create an installation up to seven feet tall. Materials and lunch are provided and it costs Dhs2,460 for nonmembers. Nal Al Sheba, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3363313. tashkeel.org
« �o To Market » The UAEʼs crafting community is thriving, which means some fantastic markets for one-off gifts and inspiration, or opportunities for selling your wares
how to make an…
iPad cover
1
Arte
You need: two sheets of laminate fabric 12" x 10", fusible batting and lining 13" x 10", magnetic clasps, two strips of belting, two buttons, plus sewing tools.
The region’s largest group for artists and crafters sets up shop twice a month at Festival Centre and Times Square Mall, with everything from glass painting to photography for sale. If you’d like to book a table, e-mail contact@arte.ae. November 4, Festival City, Dubai, noon to 9pm and November 11, Times Square Mall, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, noon to 7pm. Tel: (04) 3418020. arte.ae
Finish one edge of each belting strip, attach magnetic clip and sew on button.
Attach magnetic clips to one laminate sheet. Fuse batting and lining, sew to laminate at short sides. Include belting, in the seam of one set.
Dubai Flea Market
Yes, there are a lot of people desperately selling assorted tat before they move or leave Dubai, but the flea market is home to local artisans and their creations, too. From home-made cards to one-off necklaces, this is an ideal spot to pick up a well-priced present. Re-opening on November 5, entry costs Dhs3 while the Uptown Mirdif event on November 11 is free. It costs from Dhs230 for a table to sell your crafts or junk, and you can apply online. Safa Park and Uptown Mirdif, Dubai. Tel: (055) 4526030. dubai-fleamarket.com
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Covent Garden Market
We still can’t quite figure out (or forgive) the name, but there’s no denying that The Walk comes alive when the market reopens each autumn. Every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday stalls sell unique souvenirs, quirky fashions (think ballet flats with Audrey Hepburn’s face on them), vintage pieces and home accessories. To lease a stall, fill out the application form online. The Walk, JBR, Dubai Marina, Dubai, Wed and Thurs 5pm to midnight, Fri and Sat 10am to 9pm. Tel: (050) 4250543. coventgardenmarket.ae
SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
The perfect fit Sick of scouring the malls only to find the high street stores just aren’t catering to your body type? Always wearing flip-flops because your feet are too big for brogues or ballerinas? Fret not, shops and chains are starting to do their bit to clothe and shod anyone who isn’t a sample size
THE DILEMMA: Curves ahead As the catwalk starts to embrace models who are more bountiful than bony, chains like New Look, H&M, Monsoon, Evans at Debenhams and Marks & Spencer are catering for sizes up to a UK 22 and beyond, often with dedicated plus-size lines. For more formalwear, there are a couple of stores on hand to help.
MARINA RINALDI
When this high-end Italian fashion house began its biz within the MaxMara group in 1980, it was deemed revolutionary – introducing clothes in larger sizes using luxurious fabrics, rather than stretch cotton. While there's plenty of choice, Marina Rinaldi is best for evening gowns and glam separates. Sizes: US14-24/UK16-26 BurJuman, Bur Dubai. Tel: (04) 3596670. marinarinaldi.com
ULLA POPKEN
Dating back to 1880, the small family-run business started out as a maternity store until the staff realised they were no longer selling to mums to be. Instead, plus size women were shopping in their droves. Today its website has online shopping, blogs, stories and trends, while the store has also designed a range of shoes and boots with a wider fit. Sizes: US10-36/UK12-38 The Dubai Mall, Downtown, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3253144. ullapopken.com
THE DILEMMA: Unfortunate feet While many take great delight in splashing out on a new pair of pumps, for some each shopping trip is just another fruitless search for something in their size. Sales are a great place to find very small or large shoes, so check out factory sales and Dubai Outlet Mall. Of course, if you have very tiny tootsies, then shop in the kids’ department and save yourself some dirhams.
ITALIAN SHOE FACTORY
The Italian Shoe Factory creates footwear that is designed by you and customised to fit your foot, so you can pick the materials, shape and sole – you can even copy a coveted designer style. Prices start from Dhs800, so while more expensive than a pair from the high street, these will last years longer and you can order everything from Choo-a-like stilettos to chunky winter boots in durable leather. Al Quoz, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3404076. italianshoefactory.com
PAYLESS SHOES
Ignore the bright lights and less than seductive shopping experience – there are some bargains to be had at Payless; we’ve spotted heels in a ladies size 43 for less than Dhs100, so frequent trips can pay off. A big fave in the States and Canada, North American expats were practically sprinting it into this store when it opened last year. Mirdif City Centre, Mirdif, Dubai. Tel: (04) 6023000. payless.com
THE DILEMMA: Big and tall men
THE DILEMMA: Struggling with swimwear
Whether you’re naturally very tall and broad or have gained a few kilos and those tight tees just aren't working any more, men larger than an XL are well-catered for. Of course, a tailormade suit is the backbone (try Whistle & Flute in Satwa on (04) 3429229), but there are plenty of stores for casualwear, too.
Bikini and swimsuit shopping can be nightmare at the best of times, but if you’re plus-size, top heavy or a larger chap then it’s downright distressing. In a land where we can rarely escape the beach, luckily some companies are keeping them buoyant.
TOMMY BAHAMA
DEBENHAMS
This all-American store offers a multitude of choices for the big and tall. Designs tend to be more print-based, with floral shirts abundant, but basic T-shirts and shorts are available too. Souk Madinat Jumeirah and Mall Of The Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3414747. tommybahama.com
BIG & TALL SHOP
This place does what it says on the tin; you’ll find racks and rails full of formal, casual and everyday clothing up to size XXXXXXL. The Walk, JBR, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 4389529. bigtallstores.com
The Mall Of The Emirates branch has an extensive swimwear department, with sizes up to a UK 20 and cup size GG. Being a British store it is, however, seasonal so you’ll be luckier during spring and summer so buy in bulk then. The Dubai Mall store, unfortunately, isn’t so well-stocked. Mall Of The Emirates, Barsha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3407575. debenhams.com
EVANS
Another British store, concessions of Evans can be found in Debenhams and it carries a number of swimwear designs each summer. As it’s very much a plus size store, the styles veer towards the granny-ish, but for a basic black cossie you might get lucky. Mall Of The Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3407575. evans.co.uk
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talk
The hottest news from the region’s stores with Deputy Editor Helen Spearman
Wardrobe woes
THIS MONTH WE’RE BUYING… NOTEBOOKS
Overpowering air con versus sunshine outside makes for a very confusing wardrobe. Are there any A/W key pieces that can transcend both? Kaylie, Dubai Annah Cuthbert, Fashion And Beauty Assistant, Emirates Woman: Leave the faux furs and chunky cable knits for the much cooler climates and opt for cotton cardigans or silk pashminas to wrap around your shoulders whilst in our chilly malls. These pieces will also be light enough to pop in your bag whilst out of the fierce breeze. Zara and H&M always have a varied selection, but for something a little more luxe invest in this silk shawl in one of this season’s hottest hues, chartreuse, by Amanda Wakley at net-a-porter.com.
HOW TO...
IRON A SHIRT
Spread the collar out face down. Iron the back first, then the front and use the tip of the iron on the points.
Lay the sleeve flat on the board and iron from the shoulder to the cuff. Repeat on reverse.
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T-shirt dresses are back and better; perfect for a hot night out with heels or a casual lunch with flats, we love this breezy cloud-print design (approx. Dhs1,780) by Holly Fulton, which is exclusive to The Outnet. theoutnet.com
We know it only costs Dhs5 for a wash and press, but if you're on the run or take pride in looking after your shirts then it's time to learn how to iron. Check labels for instructions and temperature settings.
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TREND ALERT
Moleskines have dominated desks and bookshelves for decades, making casual scribblers feel like Hemingway. They’re a classic. But sometimes those fourhour meetings need some livening up, which is why this month we’re treating ourselves to these novelty notebooks. World notebook, Little Luxuries, Town Centre, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai, Dhs70 for three. Tel: (04) 3494755. littleluxuries.ae. Video notebook, Harvest Home Group, Dhs85, Jumeirah Centre, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3420225. harvesthomegroup.com
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Iron the front, starting at the shoulder and moving down. Next iron the back in the same way.
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Iron the body starting from one front panel, then do the back and finish with the remaining front panel.
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Keep the fabric damp with a spray bottle full of water. Iron the cuffs by pressing inside first, then the outside.
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Use the tip to iron between the buttons.
SHOPPING
BRING THE BLING
The ever-glamorous annual Jewellery Show is highrolling into Dubai this month, bringing exclusive international brands, blinding gems and next season’s trends. From semiprecious stones to the kind of jewels Kate Winslet chucked off the Titanic, there’s a wealth of pieces on show and for sale, plus a competition for aspiring designers, with What’s On taking a place on the judging panel (bribes in the form of diamonds considered). Nov 10 to 13, Dubai World Trade Centre, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai. jewelleryshow.com
WIN! PHONE CASES
We love these silicone covers from CaseMate that turn your smartphone into a monster or animal. If you'd like to win one, simply e-mail winwithwhatson@ motivate.ae with CASE in the subject line and tell us which company makes iPhones. You could have a new pet penguin to play with. Virgin Megastore, iStyle, Sharaf DG and Emax, Dhs95, case-mate.com
News flash LK Bennett has opened in Dubai just in time
for the party season. Home to grown-up, high quality designs, the shoe store has also branched out into accessories and ready to wear clothing, all with a sophisticated, quintessentially English edge. The Duchess of Cambridge is rarely seen without her LKB nude pumps, and if it’s good enough for K Middy… LK Bennett, Mirdif City Centre, Mirdif, Dubai. lkbennett.com
On the radar
Following in the fashionable footsteps of Victor + Rolf, Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld, Commes des Garcons and, umm, Madonna, Versace is producing a collection for high-street giants H&M. Out this month, the line promises to continue the brand’s vibrant colour palette, with tropical prints and gold-studded accessories. Better start queuing now; we’re predicting more lines than Donatella’s face. From Nov, H&M, various branches. hm.com
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MIND & BODY
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Five of the best... Posing a problem 10 spa sins Body talk NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 89
MIND & BODY
Five of the best… foot treatments Go on, sit down, take a load off and indulge your aching feet with our favourite treats for your tootsies WHAT? The new glam pedi WHERE? N.Bar Alexander McQueen sent models down the runway with metallic talons and Katy Perry’s fingers look like they’ve been dipped in mercury, so it’s no surprise that the UAE has embraced the trend of bling, almost robotic, nail art. A new technique by Minx uses stickers rather than polish to create long-lasting designs, from snakeskin silver to tiny flags, with heat lamps bonding the decal onto your nails. Manicures will last up to a week, while pedis stay pristine for a month, leaving nails looking a little bit fembot and very, very cool. N.Bar, Emirates Towers, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, from Dhs175. Tel: (04) 3301001. thegroomingco.com WHAT? The foot contouring treatment WHERE? Zayna Spa Organic moor mud is the key to this tootsy revitaliser, though thankfully not quite on a rainy-weekend-at-Glastonbury-Festival level of gunk. A brief aromatherapy soak is followed by a pleasingly sandpaper-ish scrub and feet/lower leg massage. Then the mud is generously slapped on, cocooned in plastic wraps and left for a short period to work its magic, designed to relieve aches and pains, while increasing circulation. Removed with relaxing warm towels, a concluding tension relief gel mini-massage really gets between shins and calves and at deep niggles buried beneath the surface. Grand Millennium Al Wahda, Hazza Bin Zayed Street, Abu Dhabi, Dhs310 for 45 minutes. Tel: (02) 4439999. millenniumhotels.com
FISHO@Wild Wadi Water Park
Anantara Spa
SensAsia Express Urban Spa
WHAT? The wacky feet nibbling experience WHERE? FISHO@Wild Wadi Water Park If you’re up for something unusual this weekend, FISHO offers a pedicure guaranteed to make you chuckle. A social experience lasting 20 minutes, you’ll never look at a fishbowl the same way again. The only place in Dubai that offers a fish pedi, this alternative treatment engages the services of the toothless Garra Rufa fish, who gently exfoliate feet while giving you a micro-massage to improve your blood circulation, leaving your tootsies baby soft. Gasp, giggle and relax. FISHO, Wild Wadi Water Park, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, Dhs50 for 20 minutes. Tel: (04) 3484444. jumeirah.com
WHAT? The relaxing reflexology massage WHERE? Anantara Spa WHAT? The quick fix for aching feet A relatively new addition to Anantara’s WHERE? SensAsia Express grandiose offerings, foot reflexology is Urban Spa designed to reach corresponding organs in Appropriately positioned in a mall – a serial the upper body via specific points on the feet. offender for soreness – a mere half hour After a salts and oils-filled foot bath, followed in the spa will get you ready for more shoe by some bone-clicking stretches, your soles, shopping. Flee from the food court and toes and upper feet are manipulated with seek sanctuary with the Stilletto Worthy deep-reaching finger and thumb impressions. treatment, which starts with hot towels to It’s occasionally uncomfortable and certainly cleanse and relax everything below the knee before a therapist exfoliates rough skin. You’re tests involuntary jerking reflexes (albeit not so intrusively that a quick doze is impossible). then treated to a detoxifying mask that does Once the post-treatment haze has subsided, its thing during a mini massage to boost circulation. You’ll be skipping to Kurt Geiger however, a genuine rush of renewed energy courses through your body. in no time. Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, SensAsia Express Urban Spa, Mall Of The Dhs500 for 60 minutes. Tel: (02) 6909000. Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai, Dhs155 for 30 emiratespalace.com minutes. Tel: (04) 3549228. sensasiaspas.com NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 91
Posing a problem
MIND & BODY
If you spend most of the day at your desk, you could be sitting your way to ill health. So how can you offset those sedentary hours and correct your imperfect posture?
THE EXPERT R
JULIE MEE
Sick of our aching back, we team up with Julie Meers of wellbeing, sports and physiotherapy centre, Body Balancer to find out how to fix our posture problems
Whenever a new fad diet or ‘allergy’ comes onto the scene, the naysayers are quick to argue that our ancestors didn’t have a weight problem. And they have a point. Past generations earned their wage with farming, manual labour and production, burning up the calories and staying strong. Us? We’re pale-faced, inflexible, flabby desk dwellers who only stand up to get another can of Coke – and we’ll normally ask someone else to do that if we can. The result isn’t just the regional obesity problem, but also the pain and discomfort that comes from working at a computer, not to mention the spreading epidemic of ‘text neck’ that occurs from too much time spent hunched over your smartphone. Away from work you should be aiming for 10,000 steps or five miles per day (get a pedometer and don’t stop pounding the pavements, malls or corridors until you reach it), watching your calorie intake and doing resistance training to stay strong. If five miles a day seems ambitious, just try to walk a little more ach day. As far as work is concerned, we wouldn’t encourage you to ditch that cushy desk job, but there are some simple adjustments
you can make to your posture and working environment to improve those eight hours you spend aldesko.
3 Improper monitor position The upper most part of the monitor screen should be eye level and monitor distance should be a minimum of one arm length, with fingers extended, from your body.
1 Lack of breaks Take two types of breaks throughout the day, a micro of a few seconds, taking your hands 4 Resting the arm or wrist on a hard off the keyboard, squeezing your fingers in a surface whilst typing first motion and then going back to typing, The wrist should not be extended in an upward and a macro where every half hour you get up position while typing. You can buy cushions and from your seat, walk around and have a glass supports to keep wrists elevated. of water, which helps keep muscles hydrated. 5 Bizarre leg positioning 2 Mouse and keyboard height Sit properly. Crossed legs, legs folded, If positioned too high there’s too much static legs flopped over the chair arm and other load on the shoulder and neck muscles, which crazy combos are not good news. Your ear, can be painful. When typing in the correct shoulder, elbow and hip should all come into position your elbows should be directly under a straight vertical line with your feet firmly your shoulders in a 90-degree angle. The mouse planted on the floor or a foot rest. should not be too wide or too close to the bodybalancers.com keyboard and your arm should be relaxed.
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MIND & BODY
10 spa sins From five-star hotels to dusty back streets, spas across the UAE are casually committing crimes against clients. Here’s our top ten rants... OVERLY HONEST THERAPISTS We’re there for a nice massage, not to have our lumps, bumps, milky-white pallor and assorted other flaws pointed out, thank you very much. A quick poll produced the following quotes: “I think your skin is too small for your body”, “You are very sexy, just like my son” and the seemingly innocent “How many babies have you had?” which was delivered with a pat on the stomach during a fairly harrowing waxing session.
CHEESY MUSIC Please press pause on the panpipe interpretations of Abba and Celine Dion; some simple classical will suffice. Even worse is the whale music and tropical waterfalls that make you need the toilet for 90 minutes.
BEING ABANDONED There’s nothing so disconcerting as being parked under a steam machine or daubed in a mask, only to hear the click of a closing
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door and footsteps down the corridor. You wait, and wait, and wait, and sweat, willing the therapist to return. And when they do and ask is everything is OK, you inevitably reply with a sweet smile and a word of thanks.
certain members of Team What’s On would rather be dipped in hot wax that negotiate the minefield of an all-male massage.
THE UP-SELL
Do you put on the paper pants or not? Is it ok to fall asleep? What should you wear in the steam room? Can you yelp with pain if it hurts? What if you need the bathroom halfway through? It’s questions like these that keep wannabe spa-goers away. Be concise.
There’s a bright light in your eyes, your skin is being examined, and you’re feeling pretty vulnerable. Then you’re told what ‘essential’ products you can’t live without, only to emerge from the room to pay and they’re sitting on the reception desk waiting to be purchased and you feel cheap for turning them down.
UNCLEAR INSTRUCTIONS
HIPPY DIPPY TREATMENTS
No, we don’t want to leave our worries in the worry basket, THE EXPENSIVE spend Dhs500 for someone to ADD-ON hover their hands over our body, Would you like a ‘quick’ facial be told our aura is grey and the while the barber does his thing? only way to fix it is another hour Sure, sounds nice. An hour and on the massage bed, or have Dhs150 later, your haircut is our favourite colour dictate the long-finished and an army of hot essential oil; just get those knots towel wielding have assaulted out, please. you. And your speedy snip isn’t such a bargain. Be upfront about PAPERY PANTS times and prices, please. Those skimpy knickers are not flattering, they never fit POINTY FINGERS and we’re sure the therapists A deep massage is a wonderful don’t enjoy seeing us in them thing, but the only souvenir either. Much better to opt for from a spa should be a sense of stretchy knit styles that keep relaxation (and maybe a craftily everything… secure. swiped dental kit), not bruises. And keep those nails short, too.
MAN ON MAN Sure, some legal constraints mean you must be treated by a therapist of the same sex but 94 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
Do you have a spa gripe? Tweet it with #uaeSpaGripe
and soul News, reviews, events and more from the world of well-being
Beauty dilemma
THE WONDER FACIAL
Q. I have a bad habit of falling asleep in my make-up and my skin is suffering. Any advice? A. If you must nod off without a sweep of the cleansing wipe, at least use skin-friendly make-up. Many big brands now offer mineral-based lines but Bare Minerals (available from Sephora) doesn’t use harsh chemicals, and even the eyeshadows and mascara uses botanical ingredients. Snooze away.
GRAND PRIX PAMPERING Have a good look in the mirror. Look a bit peaky? Eyes a little tired? Thought so. Well, this is the month to pep up your peepers with a whopping 50 per cent off the 80-minute Age Support facial with Cure Sheer Eye treatment that features amino acids, A, C and E vitamins and a super hydrating eye mask. You’ll leave looking fresh and years younger – expect compliments. Until Dec 31, The Spa, The Address Dubai Mall, Downtown, Dubai, Dhs300. Tel: (04) 4388025. theaddress.com
Shangri-La’s spa has raced away with the F1 theme this month with a special massage to measure your body’s torque. An expert will assess you for tension levels then customise the treatment to leave you refuelled and ready to go. Chi, The Spa at Shangri-La, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi, Dhs700 for 90 minutes. Tel: (02) 5098900. shangri-la.com
Essential buy
It’s time to upgrade your tweezers with this wild pair from celeb and make-up artist fave, Tweezerman (Dhs135). Expertly angled to catch even the finest hair, they’re a modern take on the iconic shape. Beyond Beauty, Harvey Nichols, Mall Of The Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 4098888. harveynichols.com
Nail it
A new boutique nail salon has opened in Abu Dhabi. Boasting a wall of polishes from the likes of OPI and Essie, Nail It offers natural nail care, enhancements, hand and foot massages, reflexology and more from 10am to 10pm. Nail It, Corniche Khalidiya, intersection of Zayed the First & 32 St, Burooj Tower, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6505560. nailitspa.com
THREE TO TRY… YOGA YOGATHON
To mark World Diabetes Day on November 14, Dubai Ladies’ Club is holding a 90-minute yoga session on the lawns, suitable for women of all levels. By gently stimulating internal organs, yoga can help stabilise blood glucose levels, which can be beneficial to diabetics and help prevent the disease. Nov 14, Dubai Ladies Club, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai, 9.30am to 11am, free. Tel: (04) 3499922. dubailiadiesclub.com
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MOON GLOW YOGA
End your day the charitable way with an evening yoga class where all proceedings go to help labourers and domestic workers. From dusk, renowned instructor Debra Kochanczyk will take you through 108 salutations at the candlelit, lakeside spot, with tiki torches guiding the way, with prizes, surprises and an open-air community meditation. Nov 17, Hilton, Corniche Road, Abu Dhabi, 6.30pm, Dhs100. Tel: (02) 6811900. hilton.com
FULL MOON YOGA
With stars overhead, waves crashing on the private beach and classical music playing softly, this is the ultimate yoga experience. Perhaps not suitable for beginners, this full moon class is taught by an experienced guru. Nov 11, Talise Spa, Madinat Jumeirah, Al Sufouh, Dubai, 6.30pm, Dhs99. Tel: (04) 3666818. jumeirah.com
SPORT & OUTDOOR
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Falconry Sport talk
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SPORT & OUTDOOR
Falconry With UAE National Day approaching, we decided to get in touch with our adopted country’s roots and send our intrepid staffer, Matt, out to the desert to learn how to master the most traditional of Emirati sports… falconry Let’s face it, your average Bedouin never had to tackle the checkout line at Spinneys – when it came to food, they had to catch their own, or train their birds to do it for them. Thankfully, the most trouble your average punter has these days is sneaking that 11th item in the ten-or-less queue, but those ancient skills are still very much alive today. Falconry is still a major sport in the UAE, and revered by Emiratis, and the lovely people at Shaheen xtreme falconry kindly agreed to show me how to do it. Bird handling? Should be a piece of cake. LEARNING ABOUT THE BIRD “The most important thing to understand is that falcons have no sense of loyalty,” explains Pete, Managing Director at Shaheen. The falcons, he explains, don’t care about their owners – all they want is food, and they know you have it. Given their potential ferocity and speed – falcons can travel up to a whopping 320kmph – this seems like a fairly intimidating prospect. Yeah, about that cake… As well as speed, falcons also clock up some other crazy digits – price, for one. The birds I was introduced to (I said hi, they didn’t say much back) carried a hefty price tag, with one costing Dhs50,000 alone. Wow – I wasn’t sure what I found more intimating, that or their claws. OK, it was their claws – but the handlers insisted that the birds weren’t out to hurt me – but there had to be a level of respect. FLYING TO GLOVE With a one-year-old falcon, Bear, on her arm, trainer Louise, shows me how to remove the bird’s hood. I then go stand down wind from her kitted up with a special glove and a piece 100 WHAT’S ON OCTOBER 2011
“The most important thing to remember is falcons have no sense of loyalty” of, what I’m told is, quail clasped between my fingers. As I stretch my arm out with the bait easily visible Bear takes flight, lands on my hand and proceeds to rip the quail to pieces – awesome. THE LURE This is the bit I was most excited – and nervous – about. The lure is a length of rope with a dead quail attract to the end. It is swung around like a lasso in order to attached the bird’s attention while it is flying, and then laid on the ground so the falcon can swoop in and nab it, the flyer’s job is to make the bird work for its ‘kill’ by pulling the lure away just as it is about to snag the bait. Pete shows me the technique and talks me through the process, warning me to always keep my eyes on the bird at all times. As I mimic his
demonstration, the bird circles above and the adrenaline begins pumping. Bear then changes direction and swoops down for the kill. I manage to hoist the bait away at the last second, but there is no time to take the plaudits as Bear circles back for round two. VERDICT Having never so much as held a bird of prey before, to be that close to such intimidating creatures was actually a lot scarier than I thought it would be – but it was thrilling at the same time. Whilst flying the falcons I was completely in awe of them – it’s certainly quite a buzz watching and handling them. I wonder how good they are with shopping lists? Royal Shaheen Events, Dhs200 to 400. Tel: (04) 4356550. shaheenxtreme.com
When you want a soul soothing, heart warming, tummy filling, thirst quenching, good time. Boardwalk.
Join us at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club. For reservations, please call 04 295 6000 or email creekdining@dubaigolf.com
round-up News, events and your questions answered from the world of sport
F1 CHARITY FOOTBALL MATCH Sure, Michael Schumacher, Fernando Alonso and Sebastian Vettel are pretty good behind the wheel of a car, but the burning question still remains: how good are they on a football pitch? Pretty good, as it turns out. If you don’t believe us then head on over to see a team made up of Formula One drivers take on sporting professionals and VIPs from across the region in this one-off friendly match. Entrance is free, and there will be big screens showing the match outside the stadium. Nov 9, Mohammed bin Zayed Stadium, Al Jazira Sports Club, Abu Dhabi, 7pm, free. Tel: (02) 4454455. nazionalepiloti.it
MMA TOURNAMENT Fight sports such as MMA have taken off big time in the UAE. Here at What’s On we like to keep things civil, but if you’re one of those musclestacked guys that we see at the gym kitted out in Tap Out T-shirts, then the news that gym-based MMA league Top Fight is being set up across the UAE will be right up your street. The winning gym will receive Dhs15,000 and all the bragging rights it can dish out. The fearful need not apply. Nov TBC. Chi @ The Lodge, Al Nasr Leisure Land, Oud Metha, Dubai, Dhs1,750 to Dhs5,000. Tel: (02) 5534224. adfc.ae
STICK THE BOOT IN
We were is still aching days after testing out the Health Club at Sheraton Abu Dhabi’s new Sculpt Fit boot camp, which has just launched with personal trainer Wolfgang Tresize. The Australian bodybuilder is also running Sculpt Punch kickboxing classes and one-hour, one-to-one personal training sessions. Sheraton Abu Dhabi, Corniche Road, Abu Dhabi, Dhs85 per session, Dhs935 for 12 sessions. Tel: (02) 6773333. sheraton.com
ADNIC Yas Run After the dust has settled following the global spectacle of the Formula One circus, the Yas Marina Circuit hosts a more local affair with the Yas Run. This charity fun-run is broken down into four different categories from 1km runs to a 10km team relay, as competitors race around the track under the bright racecourse lights – with the proceeds going to various heart disease projects. Nov 26, West entrance, Yas Marina circuit, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs50 to Dhs600. Tel: (02) 4460384. adnicyasrun.ae
GLOBAL CHAMPIONS TOUR Horse fans can stop chomping at the bit as the ninth and final stop of the Global Champions Tour rears its head in Abu Dhabi. The international show jumping competition features the top 40 riders in the world competing against Australia’s Edwina Alexander, the rider currently leading the field. Nov 24 to 26, Al Forsan International Sports Resort, Khalifa City, Abu Dhabi, Dhs50. Tel: (02) 5568555. globalchampionstour.com
Al Ain Karting If the Grand Prix didn’t satisfy your yearning for high-octane racing, then don't miss the Rotax Max Challenge grand finals. The Al Ain Raceway hosts 216 of the best semi-professional kart drivers from around the world as they compete in various classes at the final showcase of the season. Nov 19 to 26, Al Ain Raceway, Al Ain, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (03) 7686662. maxchallenge-rotax.com
MR FITNESS In his seven years as a personal trainer, James Houghton has helped everyone from West End actresses to the Arabian Gulf rugby sevens team lose the pounds and keep in shape I’ve heard people talk about cheat days. What are these? How do I incorporate them into my regimen? Larry, Dubai Marina I would recommend a cheat meal as opposed to a cheat day. Based on one week’s worth of eating, if you are allowed to cheat ten per cent of the time, and you eat five times per day (35 meals 102 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
per week), then you can cheat at three and a half meals over the course of the week. Without going into the science of it, cheat meals can actually speed up your metabolism, which is why it is important to incorporate them into your regimen. Decide what your cheat meal is going to be, sit down at the table and eat it. When you leave the table your cheat meal is finished. You stop eating. It does not mean snacking later. Have your cheat meal later in the day as it will give you less opportunity to cheat throughout the day, plus a morning cheat meal can make you feel sluggish. Rice or potatoes are better options than products containing wheat or gluten. Do you have a fitness question for James? E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae
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The Bolton wanderer Artist of the month Club diary Nightlife news
NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 105
GETTY
MUSIC AND NIGHTLIFE
The Bolton Wanderer
Multiple Grammy-award winning Michael Bolton is coming to Dubai armed with his greatest hits including When A Man Loves A Woman. Watch out ladies... Welcome back to the UAE. As this is your third time over here, are you getting familiar with the Emirates now? I’ve been here a few times, but I wouldn’t ask me to give you street directions. I am normally only here for a couple of days. Has the region left any lasting impressions? I am always treated very well here and I feel very accepted and appreciated, the people who I have met have always been very gracious – plus the hotels are far from shabby. When you’re constantly travelling, it is wonderful to have people look after you to the extent that they do here. But for me, the most important thing is how the people respond to you. I don’t care how beautiful a place is – if you don’t feel welcome then you just want to leave. I’ve only had good experiences in Dubai.
If you find yourself with half a day free, what will you do? The one thing I would love to do is play some golf. I always hear that the courses here are phenomenal, and I haven’t been able to play them yet. So our tickets are in our hand, our taxi is booked, what can we expect from the gig? You’ve got to bring the greatest hits. I don’t want to be that guy who doesn’t play the big tracks. People come to my shows to hear When A Man Loves A Woman, How Am I Supposed To Live Without You? – songs that they relate to. People go through the most important experiences in their lives to music – they may have proposed to a certain song, a song might have been on the radio when they were kids, or newlywed or even going through hardship. No matter how excited you are about your new projects, you have to remember that the big songs can really mean a lot to people and I feel it’s my duty to sing them. Do you have new projects on the go right now? I released my new album, Gems: The Duet Collection, earlier this year. It’s a compilation of duets with artists all from over the world, including people like Delta Goodrem,
Helene Fisher and Paula Fernandez. They are all pretty amazing women and I had to consciously stop myself from looking at them when we were singing, as they are so beautiful that I’d get distracted and forget the words. Have you ever been starstruck? I remember I was writing a song with Bob Dylan, and I was a big of his when I was younger. We were sitting there chatting and I was thinking, “Oh my God, I can’t believe I’m sitting here writing with Bob Dylan!” I was pretty star-struck then. The Jack Sparrow video you did earlier this year with The Lonely Island guys has exploded on YouTube – what has the response been like? [Laughs] Well, I’ve found myself getting highfived by a lot of college students – which has been great, as it is a market I’ve never really tapped into before. Working with those guys was so much fun, but after dressing up as Erin Brockovich I did learn that I make one scary looking woman. Did it make you miss your old curls? The exact opposite. Nov 24, Madinat Arena, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 7pm, Dhs350. Tel: (050) 3439139. mpremiere.com/michael-bolton-in-dubai NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 107
MUSIC AND NIGHTLIFE
SHOT ON THE LOCATION AT MERCATO
ST ARFTTI HE O TH MON
Rohit Iyengar You’ve probably seen it by now – if you have, you’re in good company – schoolboy Rohit Iyengar’s quirky ode to the shopping malls of Dubai (The Malls Of Dubai) amassed an incredible 150,000 views and rising on YouTube in just six weeks, turning him from mere Raffles International school kid into a local Internet sensation and the talk of the Emirates. “It’s kind of strange when people at school started coming up to me singing,” says Rohit who writes, performs, films and edits all of the videos released on his YouTube channel under the moniker of SPR Productions. “But everyone has been really supportive.” 108 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
It has to be said, Rohit’s choice of subject – shopping malls (“I’m in Dubai. I’m going to the mall. There’s so many to choose from, I don’t know where to go”) – is a little, well, ‘out there’. “Every so often there are moments when a random idea pops up in my head,” explains the singer. “Then I’ll think about directions to take it, either by brainstorming on the PC or simply playing away on an instrument – I play the keyboards, guitar and drums. If what I visualize seems to be going in a positive direction, I’ll decide to work on it. The Malls Of Dubai song and video was a similar train of thought. Also, no one has ever made a song about the malls in Dubai before so it was an original idea.”
However, what is most impressive is how Rohit doesn’t see his recent success as an ending point, but more an opportunity to build on. “It’s great having people take notice, I just hope to carry on going,” he says. “SPR Productions is something I started in late 2009 making short films and music and I’ll continue producing new original and cover songs. I’ve uploaded four videos since The Malls Of Dubai already. One of the projects I’m working on now is a Hindi version of Danza Kuduro by Don Omar and Lucenzo.” facebook.com/SPRProductions youtube.com/SPRProductionsYT
CLUB DIARY This month's clubbing highlights
11 Desyn Masiello @ Ill Communications
3
DJ Spen @ MustHaveSoul
3
WEEKLY
Aperitivo @ Media One Kick back poolside with laid-back and down-tempo post-office sounds from rotating resident DJs, plus drinks deals. Media One Hotel, Media City, Dubai, 5pm to 9pm, free. Tel: (04) 4271000. mediaonehotel. com WEEKLY
Audio Tonic @ Sea Lounge The residents warm you up for the weekend with alfresco house delights. Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 8pm to 2pm, free. Tel: (056) 6037275. audiotonic.net WHAT’S ON PICK
DJ Spen @ MustHaveSoul Turntable legend and Baltimore label Code Red representative blesses MHS’s second birthday party. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 7pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. djspen.com
London-born Desyn Masiello is back in full solo effect after a spell as one third of DJ collective SOS. After spending most of the year playing in the Americas, he makes a relatively rare trip east... You played Dubai last year. Are you excited to be back, especially considering your wife has family here? I love playing Dubai, and having family here makes it even more special. The crowds are always really up for it and the clubs have great sound. There's such a great mix of cultures as well, which is what house music is about, bringing people together from different races and cultures. What can we expect to hear? The last 20 years, all I've done is look for records and amass a collection of over 20,000 vinyls, and endless music in digital form, too. That's the ongoing evolution, not to get stuck in the current trends, but to spread the magic vibes by mixing the old and the new together. Magical music isn't found easily, it is dotted around the
Ele:mental @ Pearls Bar House and soul with DJs from Boogie Box and Optidelic Sessions. Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 10pm to 3am, free. Tel: (02) 509855. shangri-la.com
WEEKLY
Residents @ MustHaveSoul A revolving cast of MHS’s finest DJs keep the tempo up in Abu Dhabi. Sea Lounge, Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (02) 6563500. musthavesoul.com
Moonlight Dance Pool Party @ Ryders Lounge Water-based party antics with DJs Dave Zobhaa and Sjoni. Abu Dhabi City Golf Club, 19th and 24th Street, Al Mushrif, Abu Dhabi, 8pm to 3am, Dhs100 including one drink, free before 10pm. Tel: (050) 2641834. adcitygolf.ae
Sis @ Ill Communications Get Physical label-approved Berlin-based DJ and producer hits Dubai. Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, Dhs130, Dhs100 before midnight, ladies free until 11pm. Tel: (050) 7258277. facebook.com/sisofficial
Smokingroove @ Relax@12 The house pioneers get busy in suitably suave surrounds. Aloft, Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, Abu Dhabi, 5pm to 3am, free. Tel: (02) 6545138. smokingroove.com
Sunset Sessions presents Fresh Tonic @ Audio Tonic Newest Audio Tonic resident Rich Showell debuts on the decks, plus veterans Julian Jinx and Raxon. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. audiotonic.net
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Caribbean Beach Bacchanal @ Caribbean Vybez Red Rat, Kes and Tessane Chin and more play live on the beach with Caribbean DJs and bands. Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa, Jebel Ali, Dubai, noon to 11.30pm, Dhs150 to Dhs500. Tel: (050) 4360891. jebelali-international.com
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history of dance music like needles in a haystack. Do you still DJ vinyl wherever possible then? I only play with vinyl or CDs, but I don't travel with my vinyl. Since I lost my records on Aero Mexico and never got them back a few years ago I promised myself to always keep them safe at home. You’ve spent much of 2011 touring North and South America. Are you back home much? I'm still based in the UK but the last two years I've been there no more than three or four months in total. I tend to accept the offers to play no matter where they are.
WEEKLY
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MoFunk @ Republique
Urban Education @ Pearls Bar Rone Jaxx and Cliff Townley drop hip hop gems from Run-DMC to Warren G. Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 3am, free. Tel: (02) 509855. shangri-la.com
The US and South America are going strong for house music right now. What made you decide to refocus your efforts on your solo career again? I went from a ten-year 'career' DJing on my own to my bedroom wall with a poster of loads of people raving in front of the decks to a six-year solo career around the world, then joined SOS and spent four years touring the world together. Now it's time to do something new again. Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, Dhs130, Dhs100 before midnight, ladies free until 11pm. Tel: (050) 7258277. desynmasiello.com
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WEEKLY
Eclectic Circle @ MustHaveSoul From funk to Motown, the MHS crew’s residents – including What’s On Ed Mark Evans – pick the choicest classics and obscurities. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. musthavesoul. com
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WEEKLY
Just Sundays @ Cavalli Club Sleek commercial tracks from DJ Enzo Mirak. Fairmont Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 11.30pm to 3am, free. Tel: (04) 3329260. cavalliclubdubai.com
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Housexy @ Pearls Bar Ministry Of Sound present the slinkiest house tunes, deep disco and 2011 tracks (also Nov 17 and 24).
WIN!
If you and a friend would like to win free tickets, welcome drinks and a meet and greet with Mark Ronson then e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with RONSON in the subject line and the correct answer to this question... Which of the following people is not related to Mark Ronson? A) Samantha Ronson B) Charlotte Ronson C) Lily Allen
Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 3am, free. Tel: (02) 509855. shangri-la.com Judge Jules @ N’dulge The all-conquering bespectacled DJ legend detonates his Judgement Night in Dubai. Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, DhsTBC. (04) 4260561. judgejules.net Natalie Brogan @ Relax@12 Our What's On Abu Dhabi columnist lines up choice house cuts. Aloft, Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, Abu Dhabi, 5pm to 3am, free. Tel: (02) 6545138. facebook.com/djnataliebrogan Big Race Weekend @ MustHaveSoul Dan Chadwick and Melohman, plus a special guest TBA, provide Formula 1-celebrating beats. Sea Lounge, Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (02) 6563500. musthavesoul.com
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F1 Party @ Audio Tonic/MustHaveSoul Two of the UAE’s top promoters come together for high-octane house thrills, with a special guest TBC. Sea Lounge, Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (02) 6563500. musthavesoul.com Mark Ronson Touching down in the capital, superstar DJ Mark Ronson takes over the Allure decks. Expect a raft of remixes from the celeb spinner. Allure by Cipriani, Yas Marina Yacht Club, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 11pm to 4am, Dhs350. Tel: (050) 5969543. markronson.co.uk
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See You Next Tuesday @ Republique New monthly ladies’ night launch, soundtracked by indie, disco and electro bangers. The Address, The Dubai Mall, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, free. Tel: (050) 4880876. clubrepublique.com
17
DJ Sabrina @ Pink Paw Party The German model-turned-DJ cues up her blend of soul, funk, house and tech-trance. Tamanya Terrace, Radisson Blu Dubai Media City, Media City, Dubai, 5pm to 2am, free. (04) 3669111. myspace.com/djsabrinat
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GETTY IMAGE S
Groove Armada
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Mark Ronson @ Allure
Gyptian @ Chi @ The Lodge The Jamaican reggae star behind hit single Hold Yuh plays live in Dubai. Oud Metha, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, DhsTBC. Tel: (04) 3379470. gyptian.com Nacho Marco @ Audio Tonic Spanish sounds from the Valencia DJ, returning after a storming set in Dubai last year, having just released a remix on Audio Tonic Records. Nov 17, Sea Lounge, Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, 8pm to 2pm, free. Tel: (056) 6037275. Nov 18, 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. myspace.com/nachomarco
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Sandance @ Nasimi Beach The second Sandance in as many months welcomes Irish stars The Script (live), plus Groove Armada presenting their Red Light decks and FX show, Sneaky Sound System, Pete Murray (live) and Funkagenda.See p35. Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, 2pm to 2am, Dhs200 to Dhs350. Tel: (055) 2004321. atlantisthepalm.com
11 Till Von Sein @ Audio Tonic Berlin tastemaker Till Von Sein makes his UAE debut this month, touring in support of last month's release of latest album, #LTD. His appearance in Dubai also coincides with a remix release on Audio Tonic's new label. To celebrate the fledgling imprint, Audio Tonic driving force Mr Mr selects the labels that have most inspired him... For quality and consistency: Freerange Founded by Jimpster and Tom Roberts, this label has been around since 1996 and they have always stayed true to quality deep house. They've consistently shone through as a label that harnesses the most cutting-edge names. For über-cool beats: Get Physical A household name among the cooler cats. These guys release really, really good music, with DJ T at the helm and some of the most cutting-edge European names on the roster. They satisfy a big niche. For mass market: Defected, Hed Kandi and Ministry Of Sound I can’t say that I would play the music that is released on these labels – there are exceptions – but you've got to hand it to them that they have achieved a lot with compilation CDs, merch and club tours.
For new trends: Hot Creations and Crosstown Rebels The music being released on these labels is hot property right now. The slower, sexy, lower-slung sound is back and the likes of Jamie Jones, Seth Troxler, Maceo Plex and Lee Foss are at the forefront. For cross-genre appeal: Urban\\ Torque London-based Urban\\Torque not only release quality house from the likes of Tom Middleton, Hernan Cattaneo, Tiger Stripes and Milton Jackson, but now a wide style of electronica, chill-out and live electronic sounds. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. audiotonic.net
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CLUB DIARY
24
17 Boddhi Satva @ MustHaveSoul
Taio Cruz @ La Freaq
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Taio Cruz @ La Freaq Chart-topping hits from the smooth British urban-pop star. N’dulge, Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, Dhs100, ladies free before 11pm. Tel: (04) 4260561. taiocruzmusic.co.uk
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DJ Swerve @ Ministry Of Sound R&B Anthems The Kiss FM man is joined by Radio 1's DJ Schooly. Sensation, Crowne Plaza Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, Dhs100, ladies free before 11.30pm. Tel: (04) 3311111. ichotelsgroup.com Florian Kruse @ Audio Tonic A special set to celebrate the release of Kruse’s Audio Tonic Records EP 87 Columbia Road. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. myspace.com/ floriankruse
Loaded @ Casa Latina Indie tunes fit for all-night dancing. Ibis Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Al Barsha, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, free. Tel: (055) 8825675. facebook.com/seeyounextfriday Step On @ Catwalk It’s an indie overload, as Rude Larry and ME return for more guitar-driven indie antics. Golden Tulip, Al Barsha, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, free. (050) 4649360. www.facebook. com/StepOnDubai
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MoFunk @ Republique Get hip and loose with DJ Schooly and guests for a night of funk, soul and disco. The Address Dubai Mall, Dubai, 6pm to 3am, free. Tel: (050) 4880876. clubrepublique.com
Dec 1
Joey Negro @ Stereo Sushi Brit pioneer brings international house in Stereo Sushi’s Japanese-themed arena. N’dulge, Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, Dhs100, ladies free before 11pm. Tel: (04) 4260561. facebook.com/ndulgedubai
Currently signed to house kingpin Louie Vega's label, Vega Records, Central African Republic-raised DJ/ producer Boddhi Satva has already rocked crowds from Angola to Canada. He adds Dubai to that list with a debut set at MHS… Have you visited the UAE before? Back in 1997, for a two-week holiday. I went to Abu Dhabi, Sharjah and Dubai. I had a great time. It’s changed since then I’m pretty sure. I truly look forward to visiting Dubai again and
sharing a musical journey. What’s the craziest country you’ve played? Angola. They had to give me security to get through the crowd at the end of my set. That’s probably the most recognisable moment of craziness so far. You currently live in Brussels. What’s the Belgian house scene like? There is no scene. For mainstream techno and stuff, this is a paradise; Belgium brings those acts all the time. But for what I’m doing? That’s another question. I practically never play here. You call your sound ‘ancestral soul’. Can you explain the term? The two most noticeable elements of ancestral soul are Afrocentric rhythms and electronic patterns, plus soul and R&B. It’s a mixture of all those elements but with a strong connection with my ancestry. I try to pay respect to my ancestors every time I do what I do. Is your debut album coming soon? Yeah. The album is called Invocation. It basically took me ten years. I can’t say any release date but the album is being released first of all in Africa as a double album, then for the rest of the world a single album. Have you noticed increased interest in your music since Louie Vega took you under his wing? Oh, hell yeah. Louie has been an amazing supporter of what I’m doing and has definitely affected my reach to the world. I’m blessed and thankful for that, definitely. 360º, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 7pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405. boddhisatva.com
30 Michael Canitrot @ Yacht Club Michael Canitrot has made a name for himself in his native France with cult club night So, Happy In Paris? He launches his new album of the same name in Abu Dhabi Can you tell us about the album? It’s a great club mix including my singles You And I and When You Got Love, and collaborations with Axwell, Fedde Le Grand and Cassius. I also included a bonus DVD with clips from our best parties in 2010 and my mix on the top of the Eiffel Tower. You’ve played at The Yacht Club before. How was that? The Yacht Club has a fantastic
112 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
crowd. For me, it’s one of the best clubs in the Middle East and I can’t wait to rock it again. How does the UAE compare to Paris’ famed club scene? Here in the UAE it’s new and fresh. The energy is great and the clubbers are more curious. You’ve been the Cannes Film Festival’s official DJ. Will you be checking out some movies in gold class while you’re over here? I am a huge fan of cinema, it inspires me when I’m in the studio, but I don’t have time to go to the movies. I try to catch up with the classics and new releases during long flights. InterContinental Abu Dhabi, Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, 9pm to 1am, free. Tel: (02) 6666888. michaelcanitrot.com
news
The gigs, tunes, news, reviews and giveaways to keep your social life buzzing
EVENT OF THE MONTH APERITIVO
Sophie EllisBextor British songstress Sophie Ellis-Bextor will have the Burj Khalifa as her backdrop as she makes her UAE debut this month, playing a one-off gig at Burj Park. After tunes such as Murder on the Dancefloor and Take Me Home, plus the providing the vocals on club smash Groovejet, the sometime-DJ will be backed by a full band and a host of local talent. Nov 24, Burj Park, Downtown, Dubai, 8pm to 2am, Dhs199. Tel: (050) 5655427. sophieellisbextor.net
There are few better ways to get your weekend off to a winner than an ice-cold bevvie by the pool. Actually, we can’t think of a better way. Peroni, DJs playing the best downtempo soul and funk, Dhs25 drinks and free entry seal the deal for us. Be there, or risk ruining your whole weekend. M-Dek, Media One, Media City, Dubai, 5pm to 9pm, free. Tel: (04) 427100. rivieraperoninights.com
Live. Local. Loud.
There are few better settings for live music in Dubai than the rooftop at Wafi, and this is the perfect place to go to check out the very best of the city’s live music scene. Every Friday sees a different bill of local artists playing everything from soul to hard rock. This month sees artists such as Fatiniza (below), The Bluelight Collective and Behold the Locus to name just a few. Fri, Wafi Rooftop, Wafi Mall, Oud Metha, Dubai, 7.30pm to 11pm, free. Tel: (04) 3244100. wafi.com
NEWS FLASH!
Ah, the cooler months are here again, which can only mean one thing: get your dancing feet over to 360°as soon quick as they can carry you. To celebrate in style, we’ve teamed up with musical masters MustHaveSoul to offer you a VIP table (including a bottle and mixers) on a Saturday or Thursday, where you can party under the stars to eclectic beats. For your chance to win, simply e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with ‘MHS’ in the subject line and the answer to this question: In which body of water is 360°situated? a) The Arabian Gulf b) The North Sea c) The Mediterranean
THREE TO TRY With more new dance floors, bars and nights than you can shake a glowstick at, we’ve picked our top three to try
SIDDHARTA LOUNGE
Siddharta might be a mouthful after a martini or two, but it’s guaranteed to attract Dubai prettiest people with cocktails, alfresco mingling and sophisticated nibbles. From the stylish folks behind Buddha Bar, the marina’s latest opening is set to be the glammest hangout in the hood. Grosvenor House, Tower Two, Dubai Marina, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 3998888. grosvenorhouse-dubai.com
BREEZE LOUNGE JAZZY NIGHTS OUT
Swish resto-bar Ember is made even more enjoyable by the introduction of jazz duo The Rome ‘antiques. The piano and voice duo perform standards from the 1920s through to the 1950s, covering swing, samba and bossa nova every Thursday night, where you can also tuck into meaty dishes and unlimited drinks. Thurs, Ember Grill & Lounge, Address Dubai Mall, Dubai, 8pm to 11.30pm, free, Dhs245 for food and unlimited house beverages,. Tel: (04) 8883828. theaddress.com
Opening mid-November, Cirque du Soir is taking over 400 Club’s subterranean location at The Fairmont. The London outpost is a celeb-magnet, and Dubai is set to be no different, with a cast of magicians, stilt-walkers, dancers, drummers and contortionists keeping the crowd entertained, all in decadent surrounds. Fairmont, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3324900. cirquedusoir.com 114 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
WIN! A VIP TABLE AT MUSTHAVESOUL
A breath of fresh air at Emirates Palace every Thursday evening, Breeze Lounge is a chic chill-out spot nestled between the poolside and the beach. Think after work drinks, people watching, yacht envy and sand between your toes. But with Tori Burch sandals rather than your tatty old flip-flops. Thurs, Emirates Palace, The Corniche, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 11pm, free. Tel: (02) 6909000. emiratespalace.com
RARE
No doubt hoping to tap into the population of Tecom, Barsha, JLT and The Greens (and offer a more sophisticated post-bar option to Rock Bottom), Rare is a sultry, baroque-style club-lounge that promises ‘to take you back in time’. Providing you’re still of drinking age when the time machine comes to a stop you can enjoy the cocktail menu, with Voodoo on a Friday being the most popular among the fashionable set. Tues to Sun, Media Rotana, Tecom, Dubai, 7pm to 3am, free. Tel: (055) 5057580. raretheplace.com
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p118 Concierge’s choice: Beirut p120 Gourmet traveller p123 Thesiger’s footsteps p124 Travel news NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 117
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Concierge’s choice: Firas Musharafieh, head concierge at luxe hotel Le Gray in Beirut, gives us the Insider’s guide to exploring the city
RESTAURANTS Tawlet A different producer or cook prepares typical food from their region daily at Tawlet. It’s a unique and is only open for lunch, and a must-visit for any foodie in Beirut. The Sunday buffet is especially popular. Tawlet, Ashrafieh, Mar Mkhael, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 1448129. tawlet.com Al Mayass This restaurant, set in an old house with charming décor and super friendly service, offers hard to find Lebanese and Armenian dishes. Al Mayass, Ashrafieh, Trabaud Street, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 1215046. almayass.com
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Momo at the Souks Part of the worldwide food family that includes London’s Sketch and Dubai’s outpost in Harvey Nichols, Momo offers a taste like no other. Whether you are there to enjoy the famous couscous or to have a drink in the lounge, this is an essential stop-off for anyone desiring a successful night out in Beirut. Down Town, Beirut Souks, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 1999767. momo-at-the-souk.com SHOPPING Hamra Street Hamra Street boasts a good number of shops selling goods from clothing, accessories, souvenirs and antiques. It is quite a traditional area and a must for visitors it Beirut. It was referred to as Beirut’s “Champs Elysées” back in 1975. If you feel the need to stop for a quick bite to eat, you should head to Café Hamra for the salad bar, sandwiches, fattoush and haloumi.
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Beirut Souk el Tayeb Farmers’ Market The farmers’ market at Beirut Souks is a fantastic place to pick up local specialities from a display of fresh produce and home-made gourmet treats prepared by villagers. Beirut Souks, Trablos Street, Beirut, Sat 9am to 2pm. soukeltayeb.com Burj Hammoud This area is located just east of Beirut River. Arax Street is a very good starting point as it is famous for having numerous clothing shops and a gold market. Because many Armenians live in that area, you will notice lots of shops with signs written in Armenian. Beirut Central District A perfect place for and anyone who likes to fill their wardrobe with labels. Visit standalone stores from the likes of Chanel and Bottega Venetta, as well as exploring the many independent boutiques and delightful pavement cafés. A fashionista’s paradise.
BARS & CLUBS Music Hall A place like no other, this old music theatre has been transformed into one of Beirut’s most famous nightspots where acts range from Arabic to rock to Cuban, with a DJ playing in between sets of live music. Music Hall is truly special and guaranteed to impress, with people making friends with the party at the next table and dancing until the early hours. Down Town, Starco Center, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 1361236 Centrale Centrale offers an intimate view of old Beirut through the retractable roof, but its main attraction is the bunker-eqsue bar suspended over the dining room reached by an elevator complete with leather seats. The music starts with jazz and blues then, as the bar fills up, turns into a more energetic electro lounge mix that will carry you through the night. Ashrafieh, Mar Maroun Street, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 1575858. centralerestaurant.com
NEED TO KNOW HOW TO GET THERE
Fly Dubai flies direct from Dubai to Beirut daily from around Dhs800 flydubai.com Etihad Airways flies direct from Abu Dhabi to Beirut from around Dhs1,190 etihadairways.com
WHERE TO STAY Le Gray legray.com
The Riviera rivierahotel.com.lb NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 119
TRAVEL MYU MYU is a super-trendy restaurant housed in a former factory with an industrial chic interior. The atmosphere is calm during the cocktail and early dinner hours, but later on, full on dancing between tables for the rest of the night. Ashrafieh, Gouraud Street, Beirut. Tel: (+961) 3334476 EXCURSIONS Historical Down Town The ongoing Heritage Trail project aims to gather the most important archaeological and historical sites of downtown Beirut along a single route. Certified tour guides are available should you wish to enjoy the three-hour trail and discover everything the city centre has to offer. The path will take you across the millennia from Phoenician
city-wall remains to Roman ruins, along with Ottoman serails, medieval constructions, and turn-of-the-century Franco-Levantine buildings, topped by an extensive collection of religious places of worship symbolizing the rich past of this renovated city. Byblos This charming UNESCOWorld Heritage seaside town (located 40km or 45 minutes north of Beirut) is of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on Earth. With 7,000
years of history, Byblos has much to offer the curious visitor. Spend half a day discovering its vast archaeological dig, Phoenician port, Roman necropolis, Crusaders’ fortress, and more, witnessing the rich past of this Mediterranean port. Baalbek The 5,000-year-old Roman Heliopolis (city of the sun) about 85km or two hoursaway is of the largest sanctuaries every built across the Empire. It also includes some of its best-preserved temples, such as that of Bacchus, and the remains of one of its largest, such Jupiter.’s Anjar, a small Omeyyade city
built during the Arab conquest in the 7th century AD displays more Oriental architecture. As it was designed on the model of a Roman town, you can walk the main cardo maximus and decumanus maximus streets crossing in a middle piazza. Creative Lebanon Le Gray offers a three-night package (in an executive suite with dinner, wine, champagne reception and airport transfers) that includes a full-day tour of Beirut’s art district. You’ll meet artists, see them at work, visit galleries and get a glimpse at the artisan life in the city. $1,635 for two, including taxes. legray.com
Gourmet traveller Food and travel are abiding passions for Middle East chairman of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants judging panel, James Brennan. Enjoy the first of his new monthly columns devoted to discovering the diverse array of foodie treats in the region It’s a common gripe among older generations of Beirutis that the city is losing its soul. The sanitised glass and sandstone portals of the new Downtown souks are often bemoaned as nice, but desperately short of atmosphere. All conflicts aside, far too many of the old boltholes have been swept away by the trendy-brush, as a hop over the old Green Line to Gemmayze confirms. But then there’s Le Chef. Most of the restaurants and bars along Rue Gourard are as cool as a corpse. But stuck in the middle of all that hipness, battered and brazen, is one of Beirut’s best restaurants. Le Chef has been around since 120 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
1967, and it looks like it. Barely anything has changed. The dark wood finishes have all but finished. The walls are stained autumnal by decades of cigarette smoke. The tables are covered with plastic sheeting. Bottles of booze and pickles line its crumbling edges. But something else hits you as you walk in. “Welcome!” comes the cry, followed by “welcome, welcome, welcome!” The man doing the bawling is Charbel Basile, whose words are more welcoming than his facial expression. Perhaps that’s because he’s been yelling the same words to his guests for nearly 20 years. But you didn’t
come here for a smile, did you? You came for some of that retro Beirut atmosphere, not to mention the great home cooked food. And it is great. So great in fact that the infamous chef/writer/traveller Anthony Bourdain has been here twice. “He sat over there, he had the fried kibbe, fatteh and hummus,” Charbel will be only too pleased to tell you. “And he drank arak,” he’ll add as he tosses a menu on your table. Le Chef has a list of plats du jour that ranges from molokhiyeh (chicken
stew) to white cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and ground lamb in a casserole sauce. Go for Bourdain’s fried kibbe and you’ll be in for a surprise. Rather than the teardrop shaped balls of ground lamb and pine nuts, this one is flattened and slathered in a thick, white herby sauce. It’s proper Lebanese food, not the stuff you’re used to finding on restaurant mezze tables. Nostalgia food for many an exiled Beiruti, not to mention the old men who come here daily to chow down, chat, drink and smoke the walls brown. Join them. You’ll be guaranteed the warmest – and most repetitive – of welcomes.
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THESIGER’S footsteps
This month, three men will retrace the 1,500km journey through the Empty Quarter as taken by legendary adventurer Wilfred Thesiger in the 1940s. Before setting out on the 45-day trek, we spoke to UAE-based adventurer Adrian Hayes about the journey
Wilfred Thesiger TELL US ABOUT THE ROUTE… We’ll be retracing Wilfred Thesiger’s first crossing of the Empty Quarter by travelling from Salalah in Oman to Liwa and on to Al Ain, before heading down to the coast at Abu Dhabi. The objective of the project – and accompanying book – is to look back at Thesiger’s travels, and the culture and heritage of the Bedu people in our modern day country.
WILL THERE BE A SUPPORT CREW? Myself, Saeed [Rashed Al Mesafry] and Ghafan [Mohammed Al Jabry] will be travelling by foot and camel carrying our food and water and moving from settlement to settlement to re-stock as Thesiger did 60 years ago, so we won’t be using any support as far as physically possible. WHAT IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG? Due to safety stipulations, I will take one Thuraya satellite phone, which will be stuffed into the bottom of our bags and only used in case of an emergency. I don’t plan on using it. HOW MUCH GEAR WILL YOU BE CARRYING? Very little – we’ll be travelling as if it were the 1940s with a dishdasha,
shemagh, sandals, blankets, compass, knife, first aid kit and that’s about it.
to the political realities of 2011, we won’t be going into present day Saudi Arabia.
ANY POINTERS FOR US? Always to tell someone intelligent where you are going. Apart from that, WHEN DID TRAINING START? ARE YOU TAKING ANY walking through the desert Two years ago, but the ‘LUXURIES’? is notoriously difficult, serious stuff started from the Luxuries? They don’t because expensive hiking beginning of September. It’s exist on such journeys! boots are total useless been all about re-learning A notebook, an old copy when full of sand. The only to ride a camel. I enjoy it, of Arabian Sands and solution is sealed gaiters and even if it does, literally, get to a camera. Frankly, I’m tape or sandals. Otherwise, be a pain in the butt after a looking forward to almost it’s the basics of having couple of hours. two months away from any enough water, proper communications, smart clothing and hat, sunscreen OUCH. SO WHAT WILL YOU BE phones, clutter and all the and communication EATING AND DRINKING? rest of the mayhem that we equipment. As Thesiger did in the live with every day. footstepsofthesiger.com 1940s – dates, gers (bread dough), rice, a bit of honey WHAT PHYSICAL CHANGES and that’s it. When we reach ARE YOU ANTICIPATING? settlements, we’ll take the I guess like most of my trips hospitality offered to us I’ll lose a good few kilos, there as he did. hence the pre-trek bulking up. It’s a bit of a yo-yo affair, HOW CLOSELY WILL YOU because once you return BE FOLLOWING THESIGER’S ten to 14kgs lighter and FOOTSTEPS? quickly regain not just your As close as possible to his original weight but most of Adrian Hayes first crossing except, due the bulk-up weight too.
SOME TITLES TO HELP YOU BRUSH UP ON THESIGER… Wilfred Thesiger: The Life of the Great Explorer (Dhs165) This authorised biography was written with Thesiger’s support before the great man died in 2003.
Arabian Sands (Dhs120) Written in 1959, read the memoirs of Thesiger after he became the first European to cross the great, barren Empty Quarter.
Crossing the Sands (Dhs185) As an outstanding photographer, the wonderful prose of this book is highlighted with stunning images.
A Life in Pictures (Dhs145) A collection of over 200 photographs – many of them previously unpublished – chart Thesiger’s distinguished career.
All books are available from the Arabian Gallery, which this month celebrates its 25th birthday. Arabian Gallery, Garhoud Road, Garhoud, Dubai. booksarabia.com
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extra
Advice, deals and other tasty travel tidbits
Travels with… James Sinclair One of the perks of being in a successful rock band is the travel opportunities. James Sinclair, of UAE rockers Juliana Down, steps from behind the drum kit tp tell us a tale or two from the road Had you done much travelling before joining Juliana Down? I toured with various bands a few years ago and in the last couple of years I have flown all over the world. What is the best holiday you have ever been on? When I was 17, I travelled around Europe with some friends over the summer. We got into quite a few ‘interesting situations’ but it was all
good, character building stuff. I don’t think the warrant for my arrest is still valid... What has been your biggest travel disaster? I wouldn’t call it a ‘disaster’ but being stuck on a Greyhound bus on an overnight trip through California with two guys who were clearly armed and dangerous was not ideal. If you can advise people to visit one destination, where would it be? France. The country has everything, mountains, beaches, countryside... and also the French, but you can’t have everything. What are your tips for surviving a long stopover? I usually find it is a good time to start a holiday romance. What do you never travel without? My BlackBerry. I like to view my roaming charges as my contribution to Dubai’s economy. Juliana Down’s latest single Your Time Is Now, is the official anthem for the Dubai Rugby Sevens. julianadown.net
Enjoy one of these local breaks this Eid BEACH RETREAT Fujairah's Radisson Blu Resort has the longest private beach in the emirate. Its Eid package includes dinner and breakfast. Nov 3 to 9, Radisson Blu Resort, Fujairah, Dhs1,330 per night. Tel: (09) 204 3111. radissonblu. com/resort-fujairah DESERT GETAWAY The Tilal Liwa Hotel on the edge of the Rub Al Khali is offering stays for Dhs599 per night, and you can enjoy a seafood dinner and barbecue. Nov 3 to 12, Desert Hideaway Resort Tilal Liwa Hotel, Abu Dhabi, Dhs599 per night. Tel: (02) 8012222. 124 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
WATER SPORTS Danat Jebel Dhanna Resort is offering a Dhs899 Eid package, inclusive of a brunch and barbecue dinner. Nov 3 to 12, Danat Jebel Dhanna Resort, Abu Dhabi, Dhs899. Tel: (02) 8012222. danathotels.com TRAVEL APP OF THE MONTH: TRIPPY This little darling uses the knowledge of your friends on social networking sites to suggest places to visit while you’re planning your trip, rather than having to sift through thousands of internet pages and guide books. You can also book your hotel via the app. Available for: iPhone, iPad Price: Free trippy.com
THE STAMP COLLECTOR Open Skies editor and passport stamp collector Conor Purcell answers your travel dilemmas I’m looking to take a city break no more than three hours from the UAE. Can you suggest anywhere more interesting than the obvious weekend in Muscat? Greg, Al Barsha One word: Djibouti. Despite it being five times smaller than the emirate of Abu Dhabi and bordered by Somalia to the south, it’s one of the safest, and most interesting, countries in Africa. The capital, Djiboutiville, is a rugged Wild West sort of place – populated by merchants from around the Horn, French Foreign Legion and the odd backpacker. The coastline is dotted with islands, perfect for diving – there are plenty of whale sharks to be seen this time of year, too. This is one of the most geologically volatile places on earth – lava caves dot the landscape, steam rises from cracks in the ground and packs of wild baboons roam the lunar-esque, charred mountains. Lac Assal is completely otherworldly; a deep blue lake bordered by sharp, dark mountains that crash into bright white salt flats. This is the lowest point in Africa, a place where even Wilfred Thesiger found it hard to survive. Go with a guide (I recommend Max at Dolphin Tours, dolphinexcursions.free. fr) and soak up the area’s raw beauty. Back in town, check out one of the many excellent Yemeni or Ethiopian restaurants. I loved the rooftop restaurant La Fontaine Terrace on Rue du Ethiopia. The only five-star accommodation is the soulless (and expensive) Djibouti Palace Kempinski. Better to stay in the centre of town; both the Residence De L’Europe and the Hotel Menelik are reasonably priced.
THE WOODEN SPOON’S Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens
GALA DINNER
Celebrating the career of
Ian Bell
With Special guest Tim Bresnan At the Crowne Plza, SZR, Dubai At 7pm, 2nd November 2011 Call: 050 4258625
With
Phil Vickery, Doddie Weir & Rod Woodward at the Crowne Plaza, SZR, Dubai 7pm 24th November 2011
We will be joined this year by Phil ‘’raging bull’ Vickery and George ‘’Doddie’’ Weir at the Wooden Spoon’s Dubai Sevens Gala Dinner. To add to the fun of the night comedian Rod Woodward will be with us and the night will end with DJ and dancing. If you would like to be part of the fun then contact David Skidmore for more details T: 050 425 8625 e: david@eventoursports.com
reserved seating area For more details contact David Skidmore david@eventoursports.com 0504258625
WIN! WIN! WIN! A pair of prizes to get your heart racing
WIN! A MEAL FOR SIX IN THE PRIVATE DINING ROOM AT CARNEVALE Treat yourself and five pals to a delicious three-course dinner (with wine pairing) in the private dining room of Carnevale. One of Jumeirah Beach Hotel’s signature restaurants, the winner can enjoy Italian dishes such as braised veal shank with saffron risotto, homemade tagliolino with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, and Valrhona chocolate fondant, all in the elegant, exclusive dining area. For your chance to win, you’ll have to get this question right… Which of the following is not a classic Italian dish? a) Tiramisu b) Risotto c) Spicy beef stir-fry
To enter either of these fantastic competitions, just e-mail winwithwhatson@motivate.ae with the name of the prize in the subject line and the correct answer to the relevant question
WIN! A TWO-NIGHT BREAK AT THE WESTIN ABU DHABI GOLF RESORT & SPA Whether you’re a golfer or prefer to be pampered, this five-star mini-break will be a welcome weekend. We have a two-night stay at the brand new Westin Abu Dhabi, including breakfast both mornings, plus dinner and either a round of golf or a spa treatment for two people. The golf club is home to a PGA 27hole championship course, while the Heavenly Spa is nestled in the resort’s lush gardens and offers a vast selection of relaxing treatments. For your chance to win a weekend for two, simply tell us… What does PGA stand for? a) Pretty good aim b) Professional Golfer’s Association c) Premier Gymnasts of America NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 127
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THE HOTLIST Key New entry Non-mover Up
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THE HOT LIST BRUNCHES
OUR PICK OF THE BRUNCH BUNCH
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The Fairmont oozes class and this is no exception. One look at the champagne tells you who brunches here.
Also taking in Frankie's Italian Restaurant & Grill, there are an impressive 200-plus dishes to whet your appetite.
Amongst the capital's most sophisticated hotels, with plenty of bars and restaurants to elongate your afternoon.
Starting the weekend in grand fashion in a lovely setting.
Fill your glasses with champers (Dhs449 for unlimited Moët and Chandon), Dhs299 with wine and beer, or Dhs249 with soft drinks.
Splendid food, indulgent drinks and a setting to match.
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (02) 6543333. fairmont.com
Redefining brunch, this Friday 'brunner' features relaxing tunes from a resident P&C DJ.
Hot grills, live sushi station and a mojito bar.
The hotel paradise that is Shangri-La, which revels in wonderful views of the Grand Mosque.
A post-Thursday recovery without the need to get out of bed too early.
Dhs349, including house beverages, sparkling wine and champagne.
A pearl in Abu Dhabi's oyster of brunch options.
Shangri-La, Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 1pm to 4pm. Tel: (02) 5098888. shangri-la.com
A What's On fave; expect style and good times at this Emirates Palace highlight.
Pick either Friday or Saturday for a choice of Michelin star quality set or a la carte menu.
Emirates Palace. Need we say more?
Sampling one of our favourite restaurants on a relative budget.
Dhs325 including half a bottle of Laurent Perrier champagne or Dhs199 with tea.
Bite-sized tastes of our Hot List-topping restaurant.
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, Friday and Saturday noon to 3pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. hakkasan.com
Relaxed, with a a great bar to boot.
No low-rank international buffets here. Just loads of quality Asianinspired a la carte dishes.
With the lovely terrace coming back into play, it's easy to lose hours here.
Late risers in need of an overdue Friday recovery session, or the preface to a proper Yacht Club night out.
Dhs200 with unlimited champagne. Charge your glasses.
Unlimited champers should have you setting sail for the Yacht Club.
InterContinental Hotel, Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, 2pm to 6pm. Tel: (02) 6666888. ichotelsgroup. com
Swish, airy and modern, this is Indian dining brought bang up to date.
Biryanis, kebabs, plus plentiful selections for meat-shunning brunchers.
It's barely necessary to leave the Souk: it's a one-stop destination whether you're shopping, dining or even clubbing.
Enjoying some of the best spicy cuisine the capital has to offer.
At Dhs475, it's one of Abu Dhabi's priciest brunches. Freeflowing Lanson champagne makes that outlay worthwhile.
Is there a better Indian on Abu Dhabi's main island? We think not.
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 3pm. Tel: (02) 5581769. soukqaryatalberi. com
Yacht Club
5 Ushna
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InterContinental Hotel Doubling its helpings, the Selection brunch has expanded to include Saturdays. The buffet is ambitious, taking in Oriental cuisine, hauls of seafood, a carving station, live cooking stations and extensive salad and dessert options. After several of hours gorging, a trip to the InterCon’s inviting beach should help you lounge it off. Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs230 with unlimited drinks. Tel: (02) 6666888. ichotelsgroup.com PRICE
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With a live band and freeflowing bubbly, things perhaps unsurprisingly kick up a gear as the night goes on.
A massive international buffet from roasts to Chinese.
A brunch to immerse yourself in. Want dessert? Venture towards Cloud Nine Cigar Bar next door.
Dessert and cocktail fans, with top ranges of both sweet treats.
Dhs225, including unlimited bubbly.
Value for money, variety and fun for all the family.
Sheraton Abu Dhabi, Corniche Road, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 3.30pm. Tel: (02) 6773333. sheraton.com
An easy-going weekend choice, with separate brunches on consecutive days each weekend.
International buffet on Friday; Global Brunch, with the best of Chinese and Vietnamese, on Saturdays.
The spacious allday restaurant has expansive shoreline views, plus more than enough entertainment across the Shangri-La.
Families through to party people. This brunch doesn't discriminate.
Dhs260 with wine and beer on Fridays, Dhs240 with a glass of bubbly or Dhs190 with wine and beer on Saturdays.
Something for everybody at one of What's On's favourite hotels.
Shangri-La, Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (02) 5098888. shangri-la.com
Up tempo, thanks to the South American sounds of the Madeira Latino Band.
The infamous Chamas speciality – meat, and lots of it – is tempered by a truly extensive salad bar.
The InterCon is chock with some of our favourite bars and restaurants, and afternoon beach access is thrown in as part of the price.
Carnivores with appetites as big as their plates. Taking in stunning 360degree views of the city.
Dhs295 including free-flowing caipirinhas.
For meaty treats, look no further than Chamas.
InterContinental Hotel, Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, noon to 3pm. Tel: (02) 6666888. ichotelsgroup. com
Chilled out, airy and fairly family friendly
Proudly Italian, but bang up to date: pizza, pasta, antipasto and quality desserts
The Shams Pool Bar is a great place to retreat for alfresco cocktails postbrunch
Sampling the best restaurant in Yas Island’s least pretentious hotel
Dhs145 with soft drinks, Dhs190 with alcohol
As welcoming as a homecooked meal.
Radisson Blu Yas Island, Golf Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (02) 6562000. radissonblu. com
Kick back early on, as this brunch begins relaxed, although proceedings can turn livelier.
Enough seafood selections to sink a trawler.
Get in a (sedate) spin at this revolving restaurant.
Taking in stunning 360degree views of the city.
Dhs220 with unlimited red or white wine.
Remember where you're sitting, this isn't regular terra firma.
Le Royal Meridien, Khalifa Street, Abu Dhabi, noon to 3pm. Tel: (02) 6742020. leroyalmeridien. com
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@MUSTHAVESOUL
FACEBOOK.COM/MUSTHAVESOUL
INFO@MUSTHAVESOUL.COM
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BIG RACE WEEKEND WITH SPECIAL GUEST DJ’S ON FRIDAY 11 & SUNDAY 13 NOVEMBER IN ASSOCIATION WITH
THE HOT LIST
THE FINEST FOR BEVERAGES AND BITES
BARS
Left Bank
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A chilled out alfresco bar with a discerning clientele.
Overlooking Monte Carlo Beach Club's infinity pool and mere yards from a boardwalk straight down to the sandy shores of Saadiyat Island.
Watching the sun go down and lounging until the early hours with a cocktail. Or, on weekend nights, catching the best in house music.
It's possible to limit the wallet damage if you choose wisely, although cash flashers won't need to look too hard for eyewatering drinks menu options.
The lap of luxury Monaco style, without leaving the Emirates.
Monte Carlo Beach Club, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Wed 4pm to midnight, Thu to Sat 4pm to 3am. Tel: (02) 6563500. montecarlobeachclub.ae
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This desirable brickwalled hangout, away from the hectic city centre is nicely understated.
Yas Island's main plaza of hotels holds a plethora of bars and restaurants.
Finding life away from the city centre, without breaking the bank.
Excellent value for money for these quietly sophisticated surrounds.
Y is Yas Island’s best bar none.
Yas Island Rotana, Yas Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2.30am. Tel: (02) 6564000. rotana.com
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Transporting the Northern European bar vibe halfway across the world, with much success.
Chamas and the Yacht Club are just two reasons to make a night of it at the InterCon.
Top grub and beverages with your mates. Unlimited mussels for Dhs120 on Tuesdays is a steal.
Good things come at a price, so don’t turn up at Belgian Café with chump change only.
Try the sublime Belgian waffles, a tiny slice of Brussels exported with expertise.
InterContinental Hotel, Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, 5pm to 1am. Tel: (02) 6666888. ichotelsgroup.com
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Brauhaus foregoes German beer hall vibes for something altogether more intimate.
Though the bar has plentiful charm itself, with Prego's, Rodeo Grill and Trader Vic's, you won't need to leave Beach Rotana.
Live music and games add to the fun. Say no more.
Some of the speciality beers will leave your wallet lighter, but there are good drinks deals to be had, too.
Tankards at the ready: this is German pub craft at its most authentic.
Beach Rotana, Tourist Club Area, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6979000. rotana.com
Bustling yet not uncomfortably busy, with a constant flow of interesting revellers.
The Souk has the lot, including great views across the water.
Starting or finishing the night in the company of an unpretentious crowd.
If you're on a budget, cocktails aren't the greatest idea, but Left Bank is generally very affordable.
Get back out on one of the capital's best terraces now that temperatures are dipping.
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Wed 7pm to 1am, Thurs and Fri 7pm to 2am. Tel: (02) 5581680. emiratesleisureretail. com
Sea Lounge
Y Bar
Belgian Cafe
Brauhaus
5
Left Bank
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BARS
HOT ON THE HEEneLPlSaza
Crow 11 Heroes, ay’s, Hilton 12 Hemingw ont Bab Al Bahr irm Fa n, eo el éridien 13 Cham s Arms, Le M 14 Captain’ Le Royal Méridien lly’s, 15 PJ O’Rei
Étoiles
15 PJ O’REILLY’S
Stills
Le Royal Méridien If you’re in search of fun without any frills, then Irish pub PJ O’Reilly’s is most certainly the place to find it. The bar is home to plenty of entertainment during October, including the PJ’s In The Pool parties every Saturday, its Heaven And Hell Halloween bash on Oct 28 and regular screenings of all the big games. Sheikh Khalifa Street, Abu Dhabi, noon to 2am. Tel: (02) 6742020. starwoodhotels.com
PRICE WHAT’S ON ATMOSPHERE FOOD ATMOSPHERE LOCATIONINFOLOCATION BEST FOR BEST FOR PRICE SAYS...
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Yacht Club
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Relax@12
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The Yacht Club takes things easy early evening, cranking the pace up later at night.
With regular DJs, you can dance off a belly-swelling meal at any of the InterCon's restaurants.
The fairer members of the species, on Wednesday ladies' nights, gobbling unlimited sushi on Tuesdays, or all the dim sum you can eat every Sunday.
A touch above average, so don't get too carried away – unless it's ladies' night, of course.
A reliable favourite on the capital's nightlife landscape.
InterContinental Hotel, Bainouna Street, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Wed noon to 1am, Thurs noon to 3am, Fri 2pm to 3am, Sat 5pm to 1am. Tel: (02) 6666888. ichotelsgroup.com
Chilled and classy, but without any of the look-at-me attitudes on show at certain other bar-slash-clubs inthe city.
Atop Aloft, among the city's hippest hotels. Head for the rooftop terrace now that outdoor nights no longer equal melting.
Chilling on the terrace and checking out top name DJs at the weekends.
Cheaper than you might imagine from Relax's inviting interior.
House beats and demure socialising are what makes Relax a top night out.
Aloft, Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, Khaleej Al Arabi Street, Abu Dhabi, 5pm to 2am. Tel: (02) 6545000. aloftabudhabi..com
Upmarket sports bar with Formula 1 themes and motor sport memorabilia aplenty. After renovations, it's now boasting extra big screens and a VIP cocktail lounge.
A short drag from the Marina Circuit, a stroll to Cipriani, and only a twominute cab ride from the hospitality hub of Yas Island.
Catching the big match or race on television in comfort.
The drink prices are are more than palatable.
Near the front of the grid though it could stay open a touch later come the weekend.
Yas Marina, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Wed 11.30am to midnight, Thurs to Sat 11.30am to 1am. Tel: (02) 5650101. starsnbars.ae
Spacious bar and plush furniture equals a swish vibe. When the DJs lift the tempo later, things can get a little rowdier.
It's only a few steps from all the restaurants and bars a reveller could ever need around Yas Island.
Grabbing a bite to eat on your night out: the snack menu is chock with bar food tempters.
Very reasonable all things considered.
Whether lounging early evening, or kicking the pace up later, Stills excels.
Crowne Plaza Yas Island, Yas Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, noon to 1am. Tel: (02) 6210000. ichotelsgroup.com
A British bar vibe with a media twist, thanks to its proximity to TwoFour54.
Visit one of the Park Rotana's plentiful restaurants while you're there. It's not five-star for nothing.
Taking advantage of generous happy hours and regular internationallythemed nights.
Not quite a steal, but then you wouldn't want somewhere that was suspiciously cheap.
Western expats can temporarily banish homesickness for their fondly missed local.
Park Rotana, Al Matar, Abu Dhabi, noon to 2.30am. Tel: (02) 6573333. rotana.com
136 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 136
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s OVER S s
THE HOT LIST RESTAURANTS
THE ELITE OF THE EATING OUT SCENE
MPW Steakhouse & Grill
1
Hakkasan
2
MPW Steakhouse & Grill
3
Pearls & Caviar
4
Bord Eau
5
Le Deck
Hakkasan
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Diners of exquisite taste from all walks of life relax in Hakkasan's cleverlydesigned dining areas.
Thoughtful layout of Oriental wooden paneldivided alcoves; mazy and luxurious.
This is modern Asian cooking at its peak, which is why Hakkasan currently holds three What's On Awards.
A Michelinstarred restaurant in the world’s most expensive hotel.
Pricey, but not eye-wateringly so. You won't be dining here every day, though, unless you own a wing of Emirates Palace.
Spellbinding décor and the most alluring dim sum that’s ever passed our lips; we adore Hakkasan.
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. hakkasan.com
Marco Pierre White has combined European homeliness with forwardthinking modernity.
Full of unique character, including features – such as a small wall fire – that work against all odds in Abu Dhabi.
What’s On’s favourite steakhouse, and for good reason. Brilliance with beef.
The Fairmont is custom-made for an underone-roof experience post-MPW.
The four-course beef tasting menu (Dhs489 with wine, until December) is worth every fil.
MPW deserves a foodie knighthood for steak served with undeniable British finesse.
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 1am. Tel: (02) 6543333. fairmont.com
A romantic retreat, swathed in low-level lighting, perfect for keeping refined company.
Expect black and white themes, as per P&C's name, representing the eponymous foodstuffs.
Exquisite caviar and freshly hooked seafood head up an imaginative menu.
There are countless delights to explore throughout Shangri-La and the nearby souk.
Those without weighty wallets can flip past the caviar. Other than that, you get what you pay for.
Two-toned delicacies with contemporary class throughout.
Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 6.30pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 5098888. shangri-la.com
Refined, classy, elegant. What else would you expect from the city's best French restaurant?
Stately traditional Gallic sophistication, from the paintings to the tables.
A recentlyupdated menu of the finest French classics available in Abu Dhabi, lent imaginative contemporary twists.
Wherever you go in ShangriLa – from restaurants to rooms – the attention to detail is stunning.
High end. Four figures isn't difficult. Worth the financial pain, though, as is a wonderful wine list.
If you find a finer French menu than Bord Eau boasts, you're probably in Paris.
Shangri-La, Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 11:30pm. Tel: (02) 5098888. shangri-la.com
Quiet and refined, as you might hope from the exclusive Monte Carlo Beach Club.
Full of seafaring touches such as fisherman’s lanterns and large, striking fish skeleton models.
Mediterranean, although with the occasional geographical anomaly, such as the wonton chicken soup.
The brand new and very alluring Monte Carlo Beach Club on Saadiyat Island
Easily Dhs1,000 for two with steak, even without wine, although lighter options can halve bills.
All-day dining gets a real makeover . See our review on p58.
Monte Carlo Beach Club, SaadiyatIsland, Abu Dhabi, 7am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6563500.monte carlobeachclub. ae
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sa 11 Momba ri Qaryat Al Be Rotana l, Yas Island 12 Blue Gril Yas Viceroy 13 Angar, Bab Al Bahr , Fairmont 14 Frankie’s Radisson Blu i, 15 Filin
Ushna
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Cipriani
7 Etoiles
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Yas Island Rotana The chink of cutlery on china and the babble of quiet conversation keep the atmosphere at Yas Island’s finest outlet wonderfully intimate. Steak served with an eye for fine presentation is the speciality; vegetarians may as well run along elsewhere. See our verdict on the new menu on page 64. Yas Island Rotana, Golf Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Mon to Sat 7pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6564000. rotana.com PRICE
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Possibly the Abu Dhabi restaurant to be seen at, while checking out fellow well-todo diners.
Clean, modern lines and effortlessly sophisticated.
The very peak of Italian fine dining.
The most iconic sights of Marina Circuit and Yas Viceroy are literally just out the window.
With wine for two, you shouldn't be surprised to crash through the four-figure barrier.
A lovely lunch option that transforms into a highly desirable dinner destination come evening.
Cipriani Abu Dhabi, Building 1, Yas Yacht Club, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, noon to midnight. Tel: (02) 6575400. cipriani.com
There's a nightclub in the next room, yet you would scarcely guess from the refined mood in the restaurant.
Slightly less decadent than the Emirates Palace as a whole, the splendid lighting and dimmed tones keep it as cosy as possible.
Expertly arranged fine dining. Don't pig out on the mains though, as the souffle is delicious.
A restaurant and bar/nightclub all in one, this is an entire evening out through a solitary door.
Reflective of the quality on offer. This is Emirates Palace after all.
Dine, dance and drink in luxury, all without leaving the premises.
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. etoilesuae.com
In two words, hopelessly romantic
Not applicable here, unless you count an openair cabana as being inside.
As the title suggests, barbecue, yet cooked with flair and imagination, served a la carte.
Utterly magical, on the shoreline behind the imposing Emirates Palace, gazing across the water towards the marina.
Around Dhs600 for two without alcohol – and you’ll be full until the following day.
Now summer’s over, this is our new favourite alfresco spot.
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, 6.30pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (02) 6907999. emiratespalace. com
A contemporary update on the traditional Indian dining experience.
Clean lines and soothingly subtle colours.
North Indian cuisine customised to your spice preference. The butter chicken is an obvious choice but a real highlight.
The Souk Shangri-La and nearby Fairmont will keep you comfortably occupied for hours.
Dhs400 to Dhs500 for two, which is a steal for such top notch dining.
Our favourite Indian in Abu Dhabi.
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 12.30pm to midnight. Tel: (02) 5581769. cplmg.com
Meat skewerwielding waiters line up to slice off succulent cuts, all soundtracked by Latino music.
Multiple dining levels, a sizeable salad bar and a separate bar ensure plenty to keep the eyes occupied.
Finest in beef, chicken and lamb. Mondays, 6pm to 8pm, sip unlimited Brazilian wine with churrascaria, for Dhs255.
The nearby Belgian Café is perfect for a few post-meat brews to wash it all down.
Dhs225 for as much meat as you can handle. Skip lunch beforehand.
The Favourite Americas Restaurant at the What’s On Awards is still a character-filled top draw.
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to midnight. Tel: (02) 5581868. mobasagrille.ae
BBQ at Al Qasr
9
Filini
12 BLUE GRILL
140 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 140
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THE DADDIES OF THE HEALTH AND LEISURE SCENE
THE HOT LIST SPAS
Chi, The Spa
THERAPISTS
1
The Lounge
2
Anantara Spa
3 4 5
Zayna Spa
THE SPA
Anantara Spa
PRICE
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Predominantly male, reflecting The Lounge's gents-only service. Their professionalism is unrivalled, though permeated by real friendliness.
Everything a modern gent needs, from an invigorating Moroccan bath to haircuts/styling, shaves, bronzing and more.
The villa layout means minimum traipsing between treatment rooms. And, sidestepping usual Abu Dhabi problems, parking is an entirely painless process.
When the service is this good, price is only really a secondary concern, so don't expect to cheap out here.
An essential grooming stopoff for any man who wants to feel and look his best.
Al Khaleej Al Arabi Street, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Thurs 11am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 6677377. thelounge.ae
The ultimate spa experience from the predominantly Thai staff.
A revamped range includes the liferestoring Signature Massage, plus grandly titled options like the Marma Abhyanga Massage.
With a dedicated entrance to the west of the main Palace, Anantara is one of the city's most opulent and sprawling spas.
Between Dhs700 and Dhs1,650 will be winging its way from your purse or wallet.
The most luxurious pamper that Abu Dhabi has to offer.
Emirates Palace, West Corniche, Abu Dhabi, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 6909000. emiratespalace.com
Amongst the most friendly and skilled as in Abu Dhabi.
Standard treatments are complemented by the likes of exfoliating sand baths and waterbased Vichy spas.
Escaping from the city, the relaxing sight of the dunes of the Liwa Desert make the journey into the wilderness extra worthwhile.
Costly, but it's hard to put a price on such expertise in such a glorious location.
The jewel in this desert retreat's crown.
Qasr Al Sarab, Liwa Desert, Abu Dhabi, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 8862088. qasralsarab. anantara.com
Sweet and cheerful, you’ll relax from the second you stroll through the door.
From Filipino hilot massages to caviar facials, Chi's line in thoughtful quality demands repeat visits to navigate the full menu.
Far removed from the outside world, Chi is as peaceful as a temple in the Himalayas.
You’re undoubtedly getting what you pay for, just don't head here with pocket change.
Chi has one of the greatest Jacuzzis in Abu Dhabi.
Shangri-La, Qaryat Al Beri, Between The Bridges, Abu Dhabi, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 5098888. shangri-la.com
Attentive, eager to please and happy to recommend post-treatment products.
A menu you could get lost in. Try the green coffee body wrap and scrub for Zayna's ultimate detoxing pampering.
Individual changing in each treatment room ensures ultimate privacy and gets our thumbs up.
Above average, reflecting the standard of Zayna overall.
The relaxation room is right up there with Abu Dhabi's finest.
Grand Millenium Al Wahda, Hazza Bin Zayed Street, Abu Dhabi, 9am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 4439999. milleniumhotels. com
Anantara Spa, Qasr Al Sarab
Chi, The Spa
MENU
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NOVEMBER 2011 WHAT’S ON 143
SPAS
HOT ON THEealthHClEubE&LSpSa, Hilton
H ’s Spa, 11 Hiltonia Luxury Men 12 Man/Age a Mall Marin t Spa, Touris olistic Day 13 Crystal H ub Area Cl a Wellness Sp & 14 Sharanis ealth Club H ul So & 15 Body Beach Hotel Spa, Al Raha
13 HILTONIA HEALTH
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Eden Spa
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Personable. Ask for 'firm', however, and there's no messing around.
Candle wax massages to detox specialities. Try one of Zen's specials, the Rose Hydrating Body Treatment.
Soft lighting and relaxing fragrance from the steps down to Zen onwards. The wide range of facilities include tranquility suites for couples.
This is a five-star hotel, yet you won't find yourself ridiculously out of pocket for the vast majority of treatments.
A subterranean sanctuary to steal you away from the city.
Beach Rotana, Tourist Club Area, Abu Dhabi, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 6979000. rotana.com
Very pleasant, polite and exceedingly professional.
Luxurious and expansive. The hammams are something of a speciality.
Running water features trickle throughout the spa, immediately relaxing almost every sinew of your being.
Value for money is all relative: ESPA is expensive, admittedly, but it's also worth the outlay.
A spa adjacent to a Formula One circuit is about as glamorous as they come.
Yas Viceroy, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 9am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6560862. theyashotel.com
This ladies-only spa staff will analyse your skin before selecting a tailor-made treatment
The Clarins facial is our recommendation. Varied full body treatments, plus waxing, hairstyling, Hypoxi and personal training are also available.
You'll need to navigate through the cosmetic-filled displays of Paris Gallery, but the treatment rooms are pure relaxtion.
A little above mid-range. Some longer treatments clock in nearer four figures, though, if you have cash to flash.
Ladies in search of serenity will find it here in every sense.
Paris Gallery, Khalidiyah, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Thurs 11am to 9pm, Fri 3pm to 9pm. Tel: (02) 6678880. parisgallery. com
Friendly beyond the call of duty and brilliant at teasing away tension.
Imaginative and spanning a plethora of treatments.
The dimmed changing room lights set the scene for a spa that thinks about your relaxation at every juncture.
Somewhere around the upper end of mid-range.
The Spa is sufficient reason alone to visit the Radisson Blu.
Radisson Blu, Golf Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 6562000. radissonblu.com
You may even make a new friend before the treatment is over. That's how chatty Eden's staff are.
All the necessary options you would expect, plus notable facilities such as hammams.
Eden is a scaleddown paradise, if you disregard the leisure centreesque changing areas, anyway.
Around mid-range for the most part.
Wind down in the aquamedic pool afterwards to complete a soothing visit.
Le Méridien, Tourist Club Area, Abu Dhabi, 9am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6446666. starwoodhotels.com
Zen Spa
7 ESPA
8
Serenity Spa
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The Spa
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Eden Spa
ESPA
Hilton Rejuvenate at the end of a stressful week with a soothing honey and milk bath at the Hiltonia Health Club and Spa. Try the Cleopatra Hydro bath and soothing massage for a deliciously tranquil treat. Hiltonia Health Club & Spa at Hilton Abu Dhabi. Tel: (02) 6811900. hilton.com/ abudhabi
144 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
PRICE
OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 144
BACKCHAT WITH ANTHEA AYACHE
day from under their gel coating, it means some life changing event has prevented me from hitting my local nail bar. As I scanned the salon, teeming with women being treated to a realm of different therapies, I wondered if all these ladies preening themselves had also been affected by the UAE’s love for spas and all things beauty. Now don’t get me wrong, I haven’t turned into a spa junkie by any stretch of the imagination. But I spend a lot more time having beauty treatments than I would have dreamt of back home in the UK. I sought reassurance from the girls in my life. Were As I sat in the beauty salon working my way my trips to the salon for ‘everlasting’ polish, through a rainbow of coloured fake nails conditioning hair treatments and leg waxing, with the ultimate goal of choosing this week’s normal? I soon discovered not only was my en vogue shade, I had a sudden flash back to indulgent behaviour standard and expected life before I moved to the UAE. An existence but, actually, I was cast into the category of that seems so long ago it’s like drifting into ‘spa novice’. the realms of the dark ages. A period of my What is it about the UAE that draws us life when – gasp – the words ‘mani-pedi’ into the dimly lit passages of hotel spas with used to only surface for landmark occasions the scent of lemongrass and soothing music such as weddings or interviews. piped in from the Orient? Is it the multitude Now if my real nails get to see the light of of nationalities that work there, bringing
Is the UAE’s preoccupation with spas and beauty treatments out of proportion compared to the rest of the world? Radio 2 newsreader Anthea Ayache reckons so, but she’s also lapping up every minute of it…
NEXT MONTH: YOUR FESTIVE SEASON SORTED, THE WORLD TENNIS CHAMPIONSHIP AND NEW RESTAURANTS GALORE 146 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2011
with them such a rich melange of wellness disciplines and traditional therapies that’s it’s difficult to resist their appeal? Combine the abundance and availability of treatments in Abu Dhabi – from Ayurveda to Zen – with the fast-paced lives of us city dwellers and it should come as no surprise that so many of us flock towards these establishments. And the fact that spas across the capital and beyond offer treatments for men and women alike is testimony to the acceptance of wellbeing as part of daily lives. If you accept that we’re living in a society where pampered pet parlours are sprouting up faster than you can say ‘deep-tissue massage’, then the occasional seaweed wrap can’t be too indulgent. On that note, I’m off to find my fluffy robe and slippers, brew a cup of fresh ginger tea and sift through the UAE’s holistic offerings for my next escape from the hectic pace of the newsroom. Novice? Me? I think not. Anthea Ayache is senior news presenter with Radio 2
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