October 2014 by Mountain Home

as FR the E wi E nd

My Brew Heaven

In the Finger Lakes, hop bines join grape vines as the new crop on the block By Alison Fromme Big Woods and Bow Hunting Cooking with Cooperstown Brewhaha in Wellsboro

www.mountainhomemag.com

Volume 9 Issue 10

My Brew Heaven

By Alison Fromme In the Finger Lakes, hop bines join grape vines as the new crop on the block.

6 Mood Swing

Fall is big news hereabouts, so we asked some of our favorite photographers to get us in the autumn mood.

27 Wells-brew-o House

By Rebecca Hazen Local beer aficionado joins local restaurateur, and the rest is beer history.

35 Good for What Ales You

By Cornelius Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Donnell Cooperstown brew turns a Belgian classic into a taste of the region.

Cover by Tucker Worthington; Cover photo by Elizabeth Young (This page, from top): by Elizabeth Young; by Jan Keck; by Rebecca Hazen; and by Edwin Johnson. 3

A Perfect Perspective By Jeremy C. Bechtel Hunting turkeys, bagging a memory.

A Book Worth Hunting For By Roger Kingsley The talent for Bowhunting Fortests & Deep Woods.

Mother Earth By Gayle Morrow The last salad of summer.

Back of the Mountain By Jo Swenson Upon reflection.

w w w. m o u n ta i n h o m e m ag . co m

Editors & Publishers Teresa Banik Capuzzo Michael Capuzzo Associate Publishers Dawn Bilder George Bochetto, Esq. D e s i g n & P h o t o g r ap h y Elizabeth Young, Editor Tucker Worthington, Cover Design Contributing Writers Angela Cannon-Crothers, Patricia Brown Davis, Alison Fromme, Holly Howell, George Jansson, McKennaugh Kelley, Roger Kingsley, Adam Mahonske, Cindy Davis Meixel, Fred Metarko, Dave Milano, Gayle Morrow, Cornelius O’Donnell, Roger Neumann, Gregg Rinkus, Linda Roller, Kathleen Thompson, Joyce M. Tice C o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r ap h e r s Mia Lisa Anderson, Bill Crowell, Bruce Dart, Ann Kamzelski, Ken Meyer, Tina Tolins, Sarah Wagaman, Curt Weinhold, Terry Wild S a l e s R ep r e s e n t a t i v e s Brian Earle Michael Banik Linda Roller Administrative Assistant Amy Packard T h e B ea g l e Cosmo (1996-2014) Yogi (Assistant)

ABOUT US: Mountain Home is the award-winning regional magazine of PA and NY with more than 100,000 readers. The magazine has been published monthly, since 2005, by Beagle Media, LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, 16901, and online at www.mountainhomego.com. Copyright © 2010 Beagle Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E-mail story ideas to editorial@mountainhomemag.com, or call (570) 724-3838. TO ADVERTISE: E-mail info@mountainhomemag.com, or call us at (570) 724-3838. AWARDS: Mountain Home has won 63 international and statewide journalism awards from the Pennsylvania NewsMedia Association and the International Regional Magazine Association for excellence in writing, photography, and design. DISTRIBUTION: Mountain Home is available “Free as the Wind” at hundreds of locations in Tioga, Potter, Bradford, Lycoming, Union, and Clinton counties in PA and Steuben, Chemung, Schuyler, Yates, Seneca, Tioga, and Ontario counties in NY. SUBSCRIPTIONS: For a one-year subscription (12 issues), send $24.95, payable to Beagle Media LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, PA 16901 or visit www.mountainhomego.com.

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Elizabeth Young

Chris Hansen in the Climbing Bines Craft Ale hopyard.

Elizabeth Young

My Brew Heaven In the Finger Lakes, Hops Bines Join Grape Vines as the New Crop on the Block

By Alison Fromme

irst, Chris Hansen established eight of the new plants, among the vegetables already growing in his garden. But he couldn’t stop there, so the following year he added a few more. Today, the veggie garden is gone, and 1,500 plants tower sixteen feet tall during the height of summer. The plant is hops, an integral component of most beer, and the place is Climbing Bines Craft Ale Company, in Penn Yan, New York. Like Hansen’s hopyard, the Finger Lakes beer scene just can’t help growing. About seventy-five craft breweries have sprouted in the region since 2011, and more are expected to open next year. When Chris planted his first hops, he was home brewing with his buddies, attempting to recreate the types of brews that he enjoyed while living out west in Colorado. They brewed for their own enjoyment, but the opportunity to go big in his hometown could not be ignored. See My Brew Heaven on page 8 7

My Brew Heaven continued from page 7

Scott Walker, 570-295-1083

Chris’s late grandfather had farmed almost 300 scenic acres along the west side of Seneca Lake for sixty years, since he arrived in the United States from Denmark in 1905. During that time, Chris’s father dropped out of high school to help the family farm succeed. Times change, of course, and today most of the acreage is leased to other farmers. Just a few years ago, Chris and two high school classmates, Brian Karweck and Matt Klehamer, reconnected and re-imagined fifteen of those historic acres into something new: a brewery so dedicated to the concept of “local” that they’d grow some of the ingredients themselves. The land, just off Route 14, now supports one and a half acres of various varieties of hops that sway in the summer breeze like shape-shifting green walls along narrow corridors. The hops bines—not vines—twist their way up giant trellises of local black locust trees. Their whole stems wrap around the supports, and this feat earns them a botanical distinction from vines that use tiny grabbing tendrils to grow upward. The prize of these plants is camouflaged among their big leaves flapping and fluttering: small, soft, green cones. Humble, decidedly reserved flowers that hide an amazingly fragrant substance within. When plucked and split, hops flowers release sticky yellow lupulin, the coveted floral bitterness that beer drinkers love in their IPAs and other brews. A substance that has flavored and preserved beer for perhaps a thousand years. The desire for beer, for beer with character, and beer brewed locally, is not new. Genesee Beer has been brewing in Rochester since 1878. Rohrbachs Brewing Company, specializing in craft brews, opened there in 1991. Ithaca Beer Company began in 1998. Nationally, more than 2,500 breweries are in operation, and another 1,500 are in the planning stages. Most are small

WELCOME TO

The Valley (Sayre, Athens, & Waverly)

Randy Lacey

This couple brought fresh hops to Hopshire Farm and Brewery hop drop for CoHOPeration 2014.

craft breweries, each annually producing less than six million barrels of beer made from traditional barley malts and not cheaper corn or rice. The regional beer stein is frothing over, so to speak, with new business ventures. What’s behind this expansion? Consumers now demand full-flavored beers. Craft brewers connect with consumers and popular culture in a way that conventional brands don’t. “Millennial” consumers reject mass-produced products. More and more people want to buy local products that support small, independent, local businesses. Industry analysts cite these factors for craft beer’s rapid growth, according to the New York State Department of Labor. Another catalyst for the boom is on the law books: the 2013 New York State Farm Brewery Act, which eased some regulations required for new businesses licensed as “farm breweries.” The law’s roots can be traced back in part to thenhome brewer Randy Lacey of Freeville, New York. He had learned to brew with his son at about the same time he and his wife were considering their post-retirement plans. They had enjoyed visiting breweries of all sorts during See My Brew Heaven on page 11 9

Elizabeth Young

When plucked and split, hops flowers release sticky yellow lupulin, the coveted floral bitterness that beer drinkers love in their IPAs and other brews.

My Brew Heaven continued from page 9

their travels around the country. Why not here? Perhaps they could expand into the commercial realm? Conventionally, breweries operating in New York operate under Liquor Authority licenses, require additional permits for serving beer or food, pay various taxes, and are restricted to land zoned for industrial uses. But Randy knew the history of the Finger Lakes wine culture: the 1976 Farm Winery Act propelled the wine industry here from just a handful of producers to the robust network of hundreds today,

thanks to the unique benefits offered to grape growers. Why not create a similar opportunity for brewers? About seven years ago, Randy began playing with the language of the Farm Winery Act, replacing the word “winery” with “brewery,” and “grapes” with “grains” or “hops.” Soon, he connected with people who had envisioned a similar future for local brewing, people from the Northeast Hops Alliance, the state Brewers Association, and Cornell Cooperative Extension. Together, they revised the language of the law, found

sponsors in the legislature, gained Governor Cuomo’s support, and made the law a reality. By 2013, the NYS Farm Brewery Law was enacted. The same year, Randy opened Hopshire Farm and Brewery with his family, just northeast of Ithaca on Route 13, growing hops, brewing beer on Sundays for visitor enjoyment, and dreaming up new recipes, like Beehave, a blonde ale made with local honey. Each year, Hopshire hosts a CoHOPeration event, where about thirty people bring their fresh See My Brew Heaven on page 12

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the vast beauty,

At bevy of brews at Climbing Bines. My Brew Heaven continued from page 11

homegrown hops to be combined into a community fresh hop ale. This year’s ale was released on September 20, and the contributors returned to enjoy it. The Farm Brewery Act passed at the right moment for Garry Sperrick, who recently opened Abandon Brewing Company in Penn Yan. Some of the land was previously classified as “abandoned acres,” says Garry, and thus was the inspiration for the name. He had grown grapes and apples for years, and he wanted to take advantage of his beautiful location overlooking Keuka Lake. But he didn’t want to be “winery number eighty” in Yates County. Perhaps a brewery would work, he thought. With a taste for beer but no background in brewing, he hired an experienced brewer who had interned in Belgium and worked for a bigger beer company. Now, he’s created a variety of beers, from a traditionally light German wheat beer, to a hefty Belgian Quad that rings in at 9.2 percent alcohol, to a Double

IPA brewed with Cascade, Chinook, Columbus, and Centennial hops. Garry put his professional engineering and automation experience to work in designing a geothermal system for heating and cooling, and also to hook up the brewing system itself. The guts of the brewing operate below the wide, worn floorboards of the red restored early 1800s barn. Beer made here is now available in seventy regional locations. Randy, of Hopshire Farms, says the new law helps “Farm Breweries” like Hopshire, Abandon Brewing, and Climbing Bines because it allows them to sell beer by the glass, offer their products at events like farmers markets, operate on land zoned for farming, and exempts them from paying certain fees. In exchange for these benefits and others, brewers must use at least 20 percent New York State-grown hops and other ingredients, a percentage that ratchets up to 90 percent by the year 2024. Meeting these requirements

is not easy, according to Randy, and he’s not necessarily convinced that consumers will seek out breweries that specifically use local ingredients. Local hops cost about three times as much as those from the Pacific Northwest, and local grains about twice as much as conventional grain. Back in 1879, central New York produced twenty million pounds of hops annually, and dried them in special barn-like, cupola-topped hop houses to cure, package, and store the fragrant flowers, which are related to marijuana. Special picking outings were even a summer highlight for young people hoping to meet someone special at a “hop.” But by 1900, the hops heyday was over. The plant grew more easily in the wet Pacific Northwest, while insects and molds plagued crops here. Then, prohibition whacked the final whisper of the hops crop off its roots.

For decades, hops were history— until 1999. That year, Pedersen Farms in Seneca Castle resurrected the local hops tradition, growing fourteen varieties, including a rare local heirloom variety from the 1800s. The Ithaca Beer Company bought the first batch, and in 2004 created a beer with 100 percent New York State hops. Today, Pedersen Farms sells to brewers across the Northeast and Pennsylvania. Pedersen Farms is just one of 125 growers in the state that tend about 250 acres of hops today, increasing at a rate of about seventy-five acres per year. But growing hops is not a simple operation, according to Steve Miller, Cornell Cooperative Extension hops expert. To start a hopyard, $12,000 to $15,000 is required per acre. A full harvest of 900-1,000 pounds cannot be expected for two or three years. Most people starting out today are already farming fruits or vegetables, See My Brew Heaven on page 14

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Marty Lacey adds honey to the boil of Hopshire’s 100% New York beer Beehave.

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and have some of the tractors and sprayers required. New York State growers have invested an estimated $2 million in hops production in the state over the last two years. “It’s just like any crop,” says Steve. “Pests, disease, insects, and weeds can all cause problems.” Mowing, spraying, and irrigation are needed for optimal growth, and coolers are needed to preserve the flowers after picking. “It’s not for everyone,” he says. The owners of Climbing Bines have accepted the challenge. “We’re in the business of making hops happen,” 14

says Brian. “We know that’s what will separate us from everyone else around.” Even when the going gets tough, and bines show brown stress, Brian says they’d rather salvage the imperfect but still usable flowers than use more chemicals. “The lake is right there. Our kids play here. We’re not spraying aggressively.” The path from plant to pint is not straightforward. “Wet hop” brews made from green flowers just hours after picking are unique and seasonal, like the community ale at Hopshire. But for most brewing, processed flowers are best

for ease and consistency. During harvest at Climbing Bines, the entire perennial plant is lopped off near the base, leaving just a small portion to regrow the following year. Handpicking the flowers is not financially feasible, since a half acre might have 450 plants, requiring 450 person-hours to pluck each one bare. Instead, the plants are loaded up and trucked to Pedersen Farms where a stationary harvester strips the bines and then separates the flowers from the leaves and other material with a system of belts and blowers. There, the hops

Randy Lacey

Courtney and Sam Lacey mash in the grain at Hopshire.

are dried, crushed, and pelletized before they are vacuum-sealed for long-term storage. Just two or three companies in the state have such equipment. Climbing Bines has experimented with a small operation in their pole barn to do these steps on a small scale. Dry hops released out of a bag dangling from the ceiling fall into a machine that pulverizes the flowers into flakes. Then, a retrofitted wood pelletizer melds the resinous substance into hard bits. But this system won’t stay in place for long. The three owners are starting up Finger Lakes Hops Processing, a separate company. A commercial harvester is already ordered and en route from Poland. “The realities of being a farm and a brewery hit us,” says Brian. Now, people are calling Climbing Bines for advice on growing hops and brewing beer. “But there’s only so much you can learn before you have to just do it,” he says. Not all beers require hops—but

hops are seriously hyped these days. It’s perhaps the ingredient in beer that sets craft brews apart from massproduced commercial varieties. Some say that hops offer a chance for brewing creativity. Fresh, dried whole leaf, or pellets? How much? Which varieties? But the main ingredient in beer is grain, whether it’s barley, spelt, or rye (or even corn or rice in some national brands) that’s been malted, or allowed to germinate. While a pound or two of hops per barrel of beer is added at the fermenting stage, the whole brew begins with perhaps fifty or seventy-five pounds of grain. The regional supply of malted barley and other grains is not keeping up with demand, according to local experts. Even so, Chris, Brian, and Matt at Climbing Bines are attempting to take “local” to a new level with their “four mile brews.” Some Climbing Bines creations are made with 100 percent estate-grown

hops and grains from Martens Farm and Lakeview Organic Grain, literally four miles down the road. Brian says he prefers to buy grain direct from farmers, and then send it to a malter, where the grain germinates before it is dried. Local grains tend to have less sugar than Midwest commercial sources, which affects brewing. “Some brewers complain about it, but I think as a brewer you just make a beer that fits with it,” says Brian, who hopes to experiment with buckwheat grain in the future. The brewing happens in the back of the main building, which is split between brewery and tasting room. Before the operation opened, the building was an old, decrepit tractor shed. Now, Chris jokes that the brewing equipment is just a “glorified threebarrel home brew set-up.” And, it’s operated between Chris’s full time job teaching middle school math and Matt’s work in landscaping, while assistants fill See My Brew Heaven on page 16

My Brew Heaven continued from page 15

in the gaps. In the tight quarters, a semi-automated system keeps everything on track. First, malted grains are soaked in hot water and stirred in a caldron with a hand-carved mash paddle, to release sugars. The liquid, known as sweet wort, moves into a brew kettle for boiling before it’s transferred into one of the seven barrel fermenters, along with hops and yeast, which eat up the sugars, release carbon dioxide, and make alcohol. Fermenting temperatures are tightly controlled here, unlike a home brew system, where fluctuations can cause headaches. Brewers adjust temperatures depending on their desires for fuller or lighter body, or high or low alcohol. “To be a good brewer, you have to either be an artist with engineering tendencies or an engineer with artistic tendencies,” says Brian. The fermenter is where the fun, mystical essence of beer emerges. Simple ingredients become something amazing. And yet, he says, “it’s just beer.” They are continually experimenting and taking notes. The point is not to create the same beer again and again. The goal is variety and serendipity, like when a near miss in one batch became a tasty and popular seasonal Spicy Apple Pie. Once the beer is ready, visitors can enjoy it in the tasting room, where Brian’s carpentry craftsmanship emerges in the details. Fire-singed beams support the bar, beams that remained after Chris’s grandfather’s house burned on the property. Stones in the base of the wall were collected from the surrounding fields. Original wood-burned designs adorn the beer taps. Eight or so beers are available for tasting, but don’t expect to see the same beers every time you visit. One day you might find an Imperial IPA, another day might feature a Raspberry Hefe, or Ivan’s Red, a malty tribute to Chris’s grandfather. “We’re a different kind of brewery,” says Brian. “Newness is what people are after.” And newness—with at least twelve new breweries expected to open in 2015—is what the Finger Lakes beer scene offers. Alison Fromme is an award-winning writer in Ithaca.

Many small brewers don’t bottle. For a taste, you’ve got to go to the source. Here’s how: The first annual Finger Lakes Beer Festival is at Watkins Glen International on Oct 25, 2014: http:// fingerlakesbeertrail.com/content/finger-lakes-beer-festival For a Beer Trail map: http://fingerlakesbeertrail.com

Trail Highlights Abandon Brewing Company

2994 Merritt Hill Road Penn Yan, NY 14527 (585) 209-3276

Bacchus Brewing Company 15 Ellis Drive Dryden, NY 13053 (607) 844-8474

Birdland Brewing Company

1015 Kendall Street Horseheads, NY 14845 (607) 769-2337

Bottomless Brewing (Opening Soon) 3543 East Lake Road Geneva, NY 14456

CB Craft Brewers

300 Village Square Boulevard Honeoye Falls, NY 14472 (585) 624-4386

Climbing Bines Craft Ale Co.

511 Hansen Point Penn Yan, NY 14527 (607) 745-0221

Cortland Beer Company

16 Court Street Cortland, NY 13045 (607) 662-4389

Crafty Ales & Lagers 2 Exchange Street Phelps, NY 14532 (315) 332-1606

Eastwood Brewing Company (Formerly Fairport Brewing Company) 99 South Main Street Fairport, NY 14450

Finger Lakes Beer Company 8462 State Route 54 Hammondsport, NY 14840 (607) 569-3311

GAEL Brewing Company

(Opening Soon) 4180 State Route 14 Geneva, NY 14456

Glass Factory Brew House at White Springs Winery 4200 Route 14 Geneva, NY 14456 (315) 781-9463

Griffen Hill Farm Brewery

(Opening Soon) 3949 Griffin Road Onondaga, NY 13215

Grist Iron Brewing Company (Opening Soon) 4874 Route 414 Burdett, NY 14818 (607) 731-2109

Heavily Brewing Company

(Opening Soon) 2471 Hayes Road Montour Falls, NY 14865 (607) 535-2739 See Trail Highlights on page 56 17

Ervins Strauhmanis

A Perfect Perspective Hunting Turkeys, Bagging a Memory By Jeremy C. Bechtel

y morning was not going at all as planned. It was the first Saturday of fall turkey season, and whatever could go wrong was going wrong. My alarm had failed to go off, and in my hurry to get out into the woods I didn’t eat breakfast, only got about a half of a cup of coffee, forgot one of my turkey calls, had to go back to the house to get my wallet (since I realized I needed gas in the truck), and, last but not least, I dribbled gas down my left pant leg at the gas station. I was fast becoming discouraged and was thinking of just calling it good by returning to bed, but I knew I would regret that. I finally parked the truck along Asaph Run, about an hour and a half after light, and started up the hill on foot. It still gets me how quickly the forest transforms my thinking and attitude. As I left the truck I was still cursing to myself about all of my mistakes that morning. But in less than five minutes that was all gone, and I was consumed by my surroundings. The morning had started out with temperatures in the mid forties, and, even though the valleys were clear, the ridge tops were fogged in. I thought 18

hard about where I wanted to set up, and Hoadley Hollow came to mind. I set my course up and over the ridge, trying not to work up too much of a sweat. As I gained elevation, each step I took was a step toward tranquility. Once up on the ridge I could only see about forty yards around me, and I felt like I was in another world. The leaves were wet, so I was able to steal along the forest floor like a thief. In the haze I saw three doe feeding ahead of me, so I stopped behind a deadfall and watched as they interacted with one another. After a short time they moved away, still unaware of my presence. I soon found “my tree” and sat down. The area was full of turkey scratching, and I was hopeful I would get a glimpse of them. Two gray squirrels started chasing each other up and down what seemed like every tree in the hollow, including the one I had my back against. At one point I looked up to see one of them staring intently at me from about seven feet above my head. On another occasion, one of them scampered across my foot while in hot pursuit of the other one. A ruffed grouse kept a distance of fifteen yards. At first it strutted around and voiced its dislike for me with a

repeated “putt-putt,” but after a bit of time passed it finally found a dry spot under a nearby hemlock and settled in for a nap. The squirrels finally quieted down. As I sat immersed in serenity, my back against that old oak tree, I watched as a ray of light broke through the wall of gray mist and allowed in the sun’s brilliance. It was just one small spot of golden warmth at first but it soon engulfed everything around me in its glow. As each new ray of light emerged it brought with it a thousand blue, green, and white sparkles making a natural kaleidoscope. I could feel the warmth of each ray as they hit me one by one. Before I knew it a transformation had taken place. Bright sunlight wiped away every shadow, and shimmering beauty exposed the face of the mountain. I never did see a turkey that morning, but what I did see will be with me for the rest of my life. Mountain Home contributor Jeremy C. Bechtel is a forest ranger, outdoor enthusiast, husband, and father from Wellsboro, Pennsylvania.

Elizabeth Young

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O U T D O O R S

A Book Worth Hunting For The Talent for Bowhunting Forests & Deep Woods

ftentimes, the directions we take during the course of our lives are influenced by someone close to us, who recognizes a talent that we possess but shrug aside. Greg Miller of Bloomer, Wisconsin, is a perfect example. His good friend Pat Durkin knew Miller well for his prowess as a big woods buck hunter. Durkin, a former Deer & Deer Hunting Magazine editor, suggested to Miller that he should consider writing a book focused entirely on bow hunting whitetails in forests and deep woods. And so...he did! When Miller’s book finally came off the press with a 2004 copyright, Durkin told Miller, “There’s a lot of good stuff in this book, Greg.” While Durkin’s analysis of the 240-page hardcover may sound

By Roger Kingsley a bit ordinary, that “good stuff” was penned by an extraordinary deer hunter who had devoted a huge part of his life attempting to conquer the extreme challenges associated with hunting deep woods bucks...primarily with a bow. Before you even crack open the cover of Bow Hunting Forests & Deep Woods, I’m telling you right now you’re going to want some tools at your disposal—such as a highlighter, or a pen and a plain piece of paper for a bookmark. That’s because each chapter of this book is at full draw with tips and take-home messages, so neon ink to light up sentences or a piece of paper to jot down notes and page numbers will save the “good stuff” for easy reference. What I loved most about Miller’s book was the mellow way he combined

personal experiences with discoveries exposed through sheer determination. Miller inserted those experiences in the right place at the right time throughout the inside spread of each chapter. Unlike some deer stands that I’ve occupied over the years, there are no dull moments in the chapters of this unique book. While I’ve had the opportunity to hunt big woods bucks in states other than Pennsylvania, most of my forty-plus years of deer hunting have been limited to farmland deer. However, in this neck of the northeast, one would not have to travel far at all to hunt a state forest or sizeable state game land that represents a mirror image of what Miller describes as deep woods. But don’t let the habitat that forms the basis of this book scare you from See A Book Worth Hunting For on page 22

A Book Worth Hunting For continued from page 21

reading it. Miller points out in the introduction that the challenges associated with hunting this type of country “ain’t for everyone.” However, I sincerely believe that the insights you gather from the text will encourage you to work harder at your own style of deer hunting...whatever it may be. Many of us have our own preferred strategies that we deploy in the deer woods to up the odds of tagging the best buck possible. Whether it’s rattling, grunting, decoying, hunting thick cover, rub lines or trails, Miller discusses these subjects and more. We all know how valuable experience is in shaping our lives. Success oftentimes comes from experiencing failures whether great or small, and Miller isn’t bashful about relating such episodes to encourage hunters to pick themselves up and keep going. After reading Miller’s book, it’s obvious that his relentless scouting and deep understanding of forest and deep woods whitetails have been his key to tagging many mature specimens. But, he’s quick to acknowledge the close family members and friends whose skills helped shape his life not only as a deer hunter, but as an archer and whitetail educator as well. If you like deer hunting books, you’ll want to add this to your bookshelf, coffee table, or deer camp. What’s more, your purchase of the book supports the Bow Hunting Preservation Alliance—a strong advocate of the bow hunting industry, bow hunting organizations, and conservation. A hunter and photographer, Keystone Award-winning writer Roger Kingsley’s articles and photos have also appeared in Deer & Deer Hunting, and Pennsylvania Game News, among others. 22

WELCOME TO

WELLSBORO

Mother Earth

The Last Salad of Summer

Nate Steiner

By Gayle Morrow

just made my last summer bowl of potato salad. I tend to regard it as a warm season dish as it brings to mind family reunions and the lingering light of a July evening. I make it once in a while throughout the winter, just to fool myself into thinking there’s not snow on the ground and zero degrees on the thermometer. The formula for this batch was newly dug potatoes and onions, celery right out of the garden, too, fresh-from-the-chickens boiled eggs that, thank you poultry gods, peeled easily and smoothly, a little bit of this year’s zucchini relish, salt, pepper, celery seed, and a dressing of mayo, Miracle Whip, a little sugar, and a little vinegar. Potato salad is truly a study in nuances. Everybody has his or her favorite version, starting with the most appropriate potato. I must confess I haven’t figured out yet what that is. My Aunt Edna made the best potato salad ever—she often served it in one of those big Pyrex bowls that all moms had in those days—and it graced the table for our family picnics at Colton Point and summer suppers in her dining room. Her potato options were probably limited to reds or whites from her own garden; it’s not likely she had fingerlings or Yukon golds or blues to choose from. Some potatoes hold their shape and texture better than others. You can’t always predict which ones will turn to mush in the bowl,

and, anyway, there are varied preferences for potato salad consistency. I don’t know if the age of the tuber has any bearing on its ability to hold its shape or accept flavors. And that’s the other big enigma of potato salad—the seasonings. Mayonnaise or Miracle Whip? Salt and pepper only? What about pickles? Are parsley and paprika suitable garnishes? When I worked down at Pag-Omar Farms Market outside Wellsboro, we put dill in our potato salad. An elderly lady came in one day and was contemplating a purchase. She asked me when we had made this batch, and I guess that information passed muster because then she asked me about the ingredients. When I told her about the dill she backed away from the deli case like I had sworn at her. “Maybe some other time,” she said, heading for the door. Like other potato salad aficionados, she probably knew what she wanted as the presenting flavor. I do, too, but I seldom know why I am successful or not. Sometimes, though, I do put dill in, and it’s very nice. Keystone State Press Award-winning columnist Gayle Morrow, former editor of The Wellsboro Gazette, cooks locally—and organically—at the West End Market Café.

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Jan Keck

Mood Swing

all is big news hereabouts, so we asked some of our favorite photographers to get us in the autumn mood. Trailing the scent of home-pressed cider and freshly trod leaves, the world comes to the Pennsylvania-New York borderland. Who can blame â&#x20AC;&#x2122;em? Nature works scenic wonders around our farmhouses, ponds, and barns, working without apparent effort except for the breath of fog. Mountains bejeweled in reds and golds; hickory nuts piled under big old trees; roads diverging in a yellow wood, all of them charmingly the hiking path not taken. Not yet, anyway. ~ Michael Capuzzo See Mood Swing on page 28 27

Jan Keck

Mia Lisa Anderson

Mood Swing continued from page 27

See Mood Swing on page 30

Ann Kamzelski

Sarah Wagaman

Suzan Richar

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Mood Swing continued from page 29

See Mood Swing on page 32 30

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Mood Swing continued from page 30

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See Mood Swing on page 44

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SCENIC EXCURSIONS, DININg & ThEMED TRAINS

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Rebecca Hazen

At the Wellsboro House: Restaurateur Chris Kozuhowski (left) and head brewer Rob Kathcart always have four of their craft brews on tap.

Wells-brew-o House

Local Beer Aficionado Joins Local Restaurateur, and the Rest is Beer History By Rebecca Hazen

imited quantity, high variety, and consistently awesome. This is the mission that Rob Kathcart and Chris Kozuhowski came up with when they teamed up to make Wellsboro House, a restaurant on Charleston Street, into the Wellsboro House Restaurant and Brewery. Ko z u h ow s k i , t h e ow n e r o f Wellsboro House, had been friends with Kathcart, who is a Wellsboro native and schoolteacher for Southern Tioga School District, for twenty-five years. Teacher by day, Kathcart was a home brewer by night. When asked why he wanted to become a brewer, Kathcart was quick to answer, “Because I love beer!”

“My wife and I, about four years ago, decided to try making beer and wine at home,” Kathcart said. “We started going full force, and we made all types—beer, wine, meads, and ciders. I built a wine and a beer cellar, and for about a year we bought no commercial brands of beer.” So it seemed natural that a partnership developed when Kathcart decided to bring some of his home brews to the Wellsboro House. “I did it with no intentions whatsoever. I said, ‘Hey, you’ve got a great beer selection, why don’t you try what I am doing?’” “We had a taste test session and decided to just brew some beer here,” Kozuhowski said.

And so, the Wellsboro House Restaurant and Brewery was born. Kathcart and Kozuhowski have been brewing at the restaurant for the past two years, with the brewery title becoming official in the past year. So, just what does Kathcart do as head brewer? “Hopefully make damn good beer!” And, true to his word, Kathcart and Kozuhowski take pride in what they are doing. A customer may not see the same varieties from one weekend to the next, and that is because they brew small batches and are constantly rotating their selection. See Wells-brew-o House on page 36

Wells-brew-o House continued from page 35

It’s been trial and error, with some not-so-good-tasting beers being nixed early on, but, thanks to some mentoring from head brewer Bill Moore at Lancaster Brewing Company in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, it’s been smooth sailing. “Bill Moore is one of the top brewers on the east coast, and he told us that we would learn it all on the job. So far it seems to be working,” Kathcart said. According to Kathcart, the base recipe and steps for making different types of beer are all the same. The process starts with mixing various malts, barleys, and grains. Those are ground up and soaked for about an hour in 164-degree water. Boiling the mixture converts the starches into fermentable sugars. The sugar water is brought back to a boil, and hops and any other ingredients are put in. This is boiled again for another hour and cooled down to about eighty degrees. At this point the yeast is added. “The yeast is the most important ingredient. Yeast is what makes each beer different in terms of flavor and taste,” Kathcart said. After the beer is cooled down, it is put into the fermenter. Most beers take just a little over two weeks to ferment. A couple of days before the beer is kegged, the temperature is dropped to about forty degrees. This helps settle out a lot of the solids. Then it is kegged, carbonated, and put on tap. At Wellsboro House Restaurant and Brewery, the one craft brew that is always on tap is the Wynken, Blynken and Nod Out IPA. You can even buy a t-shirt emblazoned with its design. As the fall season progresses, customers will enjoy sipping on pumpkin flavors. Come winter, there will be stouts. Lemon grass arrives in the spring and fruit flavors in the summer. The Brewery always tries to have four of their own beers on tap at all times. But perhaps the most important thing about the craft brews is that they won’t taste like anything anyone has ever tasted before. “No clone beers here,” Kozuhowski said. “We make it our own,” Kathcart added. “We’re not trying to make something similar to a Guinness or a Bass Ale.” Just a few weeks prior, a woman from Philadelphia, who frequently travels to Belgium for work, came to the Brewery. She told Kathcart and Kozuhowski that she always hesitates to order a Belgian-style beer back home, because she has tasted the real deal. “She had ours, and she said it was one of the best ones she’s had at a craft brewery. She was thoroughly impressed,” Kozuhowski said. “Breweries are a destination, and now we’re known as one,” Kathcart said. “This is how it was in America up until the prohibition. Your beer was always made locally. That is starting to make a comeback now. The craft brewery industry is tremendously growing. I think people appreciate that. You know the people that made your beer and they made it right here.” See Wells-brew-o House on page 40

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Wells-brew-o House continued from page 36

More Brew for You Yorkholo Brewing Company & Restaurant: Located in Mansfield, Yorkholo brews twenty to thirty different beers throughout the year, and the selection is always changing. Look for year-round brews such as Bungy Blonde Ale and Pine Creek Raspberry Wit. Yorkholo, pronounced “York Hollow,” derives its name from the once local York family dairy farm. Bullfrog Brewery: Located in Williamsport, the Bullfrog Brewery has won awards for their brews, including medals at the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup. Check out their flavors, including Billtown Blonde, Smoked Cherry Hefe, and Grape Wheat. Really like a flavor? You can take some home with you in a half-gallon or gallon growler. Market Street Brewing Co. & Restaurant: The only brewery in Corning, New York, also houses a restaurant. Drink one of the six beers on tap, such as Mad Bug Beer and Wrought Iron Red Ale, as you’re sitting at the bar made of cherry, walnut, and mahogany wood. Join the Mug Club and enjoy discounted beers and four growler fills throughout the year. Horseheads Brewing Inc.: The master brewer of this company received his education from the Siebel Institute in Chicago. Horseheads Brewing Inc. has won a trophy for Best Craft Brewery in New York State. Shop around the retail store for brews such as Chemung Canal Towpath Ale, Brickyard Red Ale, and Hot-Jala Heim Beer with Bite, as well as pint glasses and mugs. Riepstine’s Pub: This Williamsport spot, open for just over a year, is a traditional pub, and the pub’s motto is “Where it is all about the beer.” That doesn’t mean that you won’t find delicious fare made from local ingredients, though. And instead of TVs or Wi-Fi, you’ll find good conversation. Twelve craft brews are on tap, including yearround flavors Alpha Deuce IPA, Arch Street Wheat, Round Hills Red Ale, and Jaysburg Porter. Former Mountain Home editor Rebecca Hazen is a Civil War reenactor and Keystone Award-winning writer. 40

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Sarah Wagaman

Mood Swing continued from page 33

DRINK

Local Flavor: The Belgian classic waterzooi, simmered in a Cooperstown ale.

Frank Wouters

FOOD

Good for What Ales You

Local Brew Turns a Belgian Classic into a Taste of the Region By Cornelius O'Donnell

ou’ve probably heard of Cream Ale, a brew made by the folks at Genesee. But what about heavy cream with ale (or a hoppy beer)? I was delighted to find a recipe for a stew/soup that is wildly popular in Belgium but virtually unknown here. It’s called waterzooi, and Belgian cooks make it with seafood sometimes, or chicken at other trips to the stove.

(If I had been asked to write a segment for Agatha Christie’s famous Belgian detective Hercule Poirot on Masterpiece Theatre, I’d certainly have included a tête-à-tête with Miss Lemon and Captain Hastings over a steaming soup plate of this national dish.) By the way, the name is loosely translated as “a simmering, watery thing,” and derives from the Dutch word zooien (to boil). Well, we’ve

banished the “vater” and the usual broth and used a Cooperstown-made ale. Although the recipe I’ve enjoyed is a Belgian classic, it isn’t well known over here. Who knows why? It is relatively easy to make and, as in Belgium, you can vary the ingredients. It is light enough for the warmer days we sometimes have in autumn, and a tasty way to ward off winter’s chill. See Good for What Ales You on page 48 47

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Good for What Ales You continued from page 47

Here’s the Story Back in the very early ’90s there was a British publication similar to Country Living filled with profiles of people living the rural life. It combined decorating and gardening tips as well as favorite foods. The exact name of the magazine escapes me, but you get the idea. The publishers decided to create an American version with similar editorial features. The new venture didn’t last long, but in an early copy, I came upon a profile of the Littlefields, an American couple who had lived in Belgium and decided to brew Belgian-style 48

ales in the States, specifically in Cooperstown, New York. Wendy Littlefield’s favorite recipe using the ales was included, and, though waterzooi is a dish you’ll find in any book on Belgian cooking, this is one of only a few versions that contains ale. The brew replaces the more usual chicken broth, although you could include a bit of each. It is mighty good. You may also substitute a dry white wine if you choose. As I said, it is very flexible as to ingredients. I’m told that families in that country cherish their version. It is a chicken dish that I made many years ago and

loved. Then I lost the recipe. Sound familiar? Perhaps the prayers to St. Anthony worked, as I obviously found the lost recipe. In making it a couple of times I changed some of the ingredients slightly but remained largely faithful to the original. Carrots, celery, cream, and leeks seem to be a must. Chicken Waterzooi Let me make it clear at the outset that chicken waterzooi has nothing whatsoever to do with silly stunts at Sea World. (Sorry, I couldn’t help myself.) It has a great, interesting taste. The way this dish is put together brings out the flavor of each ingredient. Wendy used chicken breasts and of course you can, too, but I think the thighs have more flavor and are less likely to get overcooked. If you can’t find the peppercorns called for in the recipe below, just use a little less of freshly ground white pepper. This makes six servings Feel free to add one or two additional pieces of chicken and note that I’ve made this with an eightounce package of pre-cut mushrooms. The mushrooms are my idea and may be omitted. I might add that you can use a julienne of celery root—a delicious idea. Traditionally this dish is served with boiled or steamed potatoes. You can get this effect by tossing in some small potatoes or even fingerlings into the dish when you add the ale. Or you could serve it with roasted potatoes if you like. Golly, this is truly a fun recipe. And add more ale or cream if the liquid level is low. Remember, this is a soupy stew. Hint: be sure to slice the leek(s) and then put the slices into a colander and rinse very well with warm water to remove any sand. You want no gritty surprises when you dig into the stew. I speak from experience.

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4 stalks celery, cut in little (1 to 1 1/2-inch) narrow sticks 4 medium carrots cut in small cubes or 1/4-inch rounds 6 boneless, skinless, chicken thighs (or breast halves) 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 fat shallots, peeled and minced 1/4 pounds mushrooms, regular or a mix of your favorites, stems trimmed or removed, sliced 1/4-inch thick 2 large leeks, white and tender green, thinly sliced and then cleaned (see above) under warm water 1 fat clove of garlic, minced Fresh-snipped thyme leaves to taste (about 3/4 Tbsp.) See Good for What Ales You on page 50 49

Good for What Ales You continued from page 49

1 Tbsp. crushed rainbow peppercorns 12 oz. Belgian ale 3 c. half and half Salt and a bit more pepper to taste

Steam celery and carrots for 5 minutes and set aside. Heat oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a deep skillet that will hold the chicken in one layer. Use medium heat. Sauté the chicken until golden and the juices run clear when the meat is pricked with the tip of a sharp knife—about 5 minutes per side. Remove the chicken to a cutting board, preferably one with a well to catch the juices. Cool slightly and then cut the meat into large bite-sized pieces and cover with foil to keep warm. Add remaining butter to the pan and lightly sauté the shallots, mushrooms, leeks, garlic, and thyme for 5 minutes.

Add the ale and peppercorns, scraping the pan to incorporate any browned bits. Increase the heat and simmer about 15 minutes, until the liquid is reduced by half. Reduce the heat, add the half and half, and simmer 10 additional minutes or until the sauce thickens. Add the chicken and any escaped juices, the celery, and the carrots; heat through and taste for salt and pepper. Serve immediately in wide soup bowls or soup plates. A few thyme leaves and a dash of chopped parsley are fun on top. Note: you could make the recipe in advance and refrigerate the steamed vegetables and the chicken. Make the base, thicken it, and refrigerate. For serving, bring all the ingredients to room temperature. Reheat the liquids and then slip in the chicken and steamed vegetables to warm; gently reheat to serving

temperature (do not go above a bare simmer). I do think the dish is best made shortly before serving. To Drink? I’d serve more of the Belgianstyle brews such as Ommegang, or their Hennepin or Rare Vos that are brewed in Cooperstown. I’d also recommend one of the imported Chimay ales. They come with different alcohol contents so check the labels. All are delicious. Check out our local breweries and perhaps use one of their hoppy ales like my favorite IPA. And be sure to raise a glass to Hercule Poiret. Of course, I played detective to get the recipe back—but that’s another story. Enjoy the stew and the brew. Chef, teacher, and author Cornelius O’Donnell lives in Elmira, New York.

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