Vinson Massif 16067 ft/ 4897 m Ellsworth Mountain Range
An expedition like no other...
Highest Peak in Antarctica
No compromises... Highest quality all the way
Experienced guides and incredible climber support
MOUNTAIN TRIP INTERNATIONAL VINSON MASSIF Expediton Information
Mountain Trip T. /1 -970-369-1153
www.mountaintrip.com F. / 1-303-496-0998
P.O. Box 658 Ophir, Colorado 81426 Email. / info@mountaintrip.com
Todd Rutledge summits Vinson with picture of wife and sons.
A lifetime ago, a good friend advised me to leave my expectations at the airport as I packed my bags for my second long trip to South America. I can’t think of more sage advice to give the prospective Antarctic traveller. Memories of my first trip to “The Ice” still leave me with tingles and shivers that have nothing to do with the continent’s legendary cold temperatures. Every aspect of the start of that trip, from the raw, frontier feel of Punta Arenas, to loading up in jump seats along the walls of the Russian cargo jet built my anticipation and I can vividly recall the moment I stepped off the loading ramp, lowered from the tail of that amazing aircraft and touched the toe of my boot to the ice rink smooth, blue ice of Antarctica. Our journey continued with flights across untrodden landscapes, and culminated in a clear, windless summit day, but my memory lingering closest to the surface is not that of sharing the summit with my friends, but rather of something that occurred lower on the mountain. What calls me back to the continent is the memory of climbing up a moderately steep snow slope and pausing to look out across the expanding vista below us. We were in the mountains, moving well, and it took me a moment to mentally translate the familiar sight of clouds below me into the reality of what I was gazing at. What I took to be clouds was really ice, endless and stark, stretching to the blue horizon. That moment indelibly etched me with what the Danes call “polarhuller,” a deep absorbing passion for the Antarctic, which keeps calling and calling. It was an easy transition for Mountain Trip to bring our highly refined Arctic expedition skill set to the Antarctic. We brought fresh eyes and tremendous energy to the business of guiding on Vinson Massif, and quickly learned how to set the highest standards for expedition climbing on the mountain. Our commitment to customer service is as boundless as that sea of ice stretching off to the horizon, and while we hope it is considerably warmer and friendlier, we strive for it to be equally as inviting! MOUNTAIN TRIP // VINSON MASSIF
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VINSON Thanks for joining Mountain Trip for the adventure of a lifetime! We want you to be as prepared as possible for your upcoming expedition and hope that the following information will help you toward that goal.
Few places on earth feel as “out there” as Antarctica. There is a tangible feeling of remoteness that increases with each step away from the airstrip. It is a serious, unforgiving environment that is stunningly beautiful, pristine and quintessentially wild. Mountain Trip feels incredibly fortunate to be one of the leaders in guiding climbers to the highest point on this amazing continent. Born of an Alaskan daydream in 1973, Mountain Trip is recognized as being an industry leader in organizing the highest quality expeditions to big remote mountains around the world. Our Arctic heritage prepared our guides for an easy transition to guiding in Antarctica. Our commitment to providing the absolute best customer service from your first contact with us sets us apart in the guiding community and we approach each decision from the standpoint of, “What is the best possible outcome for our climbers?” From our gourmet meals to our use of the highest caliber equipment available, we strive to exceed our climbers’ expectations at every step of the way. A company called Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) controls all travel to Vinson. Mountain Trip has a very close and amiable relationship with ALE in their nearby Salt Lake City office, and with their staff in Punta Arenas and Antarctica. The logistics of organizing an expedition to this most remote continent are incredible and we will ask for your
assistance along the way to help run this trip as smoothly as possible. In the months leading up to your expedition you will need to complete a number of forms and return to us in a timely fashion. In Punta Arenas, one of our first challenges as a team will require us to be as organized as possible in order to get all of our food and equipment weighed and loaded on the Ilyushin aircraft that will fly us to the ice. Once in Antarctica, after the flight of a lifetime, we will all need to work together to unload the airplane in Union Glacier and get our camp established. Shortly thereafter we will again need to load our kit onto an airplane, this time a Twin Otter, which will fly us to Vinson Base Camp. Finally, after landing at Base Camp we’ll get ready to shoulder our packs and begin climbing! We believe that one of the benefits of climbing with Mountain Trip is our commitment to providing you with unlimited, knowledgeable, pre-trip support and advice. An expedition begins long before you start up the trail and your training program and equipment selection are extremely important for an expedition like this. Our office is staffed with Antarctic veterans, and we encourage you to use us as a resource for answering any and all questions.
Vinson Massif // 16,067ft 750 miles from the South Pole 13 miles long and 8 miles wide
Length: 13 - 14 days Clients: 3 - 9 climbers Please refer to our website for trip fees.
MOUNTAIN TRIP // VINSON MASSIF // www.MountainTrip.com
I T I N E R A R Y I don’t want to write about climbing. I don’t want to talk about it. I don’t want to photograph it. I don’t want to think about it. All I want to do, is do it. –Chuck Pratt
Climbing big mountains anywhere in the world is serious business. Adding the harshness of the Antarctic environment, with temperatures that plunge deeply below zero, vicious winds and the need to be extremely self sufficient because rescue services are essentially non-existent, makes for a uniquely serious undertaking. It takes an incredible level of organization to prepare a team for such an endeavor. It is our goal at Mountain Trip to provide you with an experience that you feel ultimately prepared for, and we strive to work so hard at preparing all the necessary logistics that you don’t ever notice the complexity of a given situation. We want all of our team members to feel just that: members of a team of climbers heading to a remote, beautiful place to test themselves on an unforgiving mountain. We are much stronger as a team than as individual climbers. The cold, dry air of Antarctica, combined with the long days of travel to get there often conspires to create health challenges early in an expedition. As a team, we can help one another overcome many such obstacles that we, as individuals, might find overwhelming. Team members are also expected to show up as best prepared for the expedition as possible. Please use the experienced staff in our Colorado office to help ensure that you are ultimately prepared for this climb. In the months prior to your climb, we will provide you with numerous informative emails designed to prepare you in a measured, relaxed atmosphere, as opposed to inundating you with heaps of information that might prove too much to effectively digest. Our guides will pass along tips that they have learned over the years that should help you as you select equipment, photographic equipment and clothing layers. We’ll present a very detailed itinerary of your first days in Punta Arenas and how we will orchestrate getting all of us as well as our heaps of food and supplies to Vinson Base Camp. All of this is part of our ongoing effort to best prepare you for this experience.
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I T I N E R A R Y ARRIVAL IN CHILE Upon arrival in Chile, most travelers will be required to purchase a “Visa on Arrival.” This is a simple process that requires a bit of waiting in line and costs about $150 USD. You will then collect your bags and pass through Chilean Customs.
**DO NOT BRING ANY MEAT PRODUCTS INTO CHILE! They will find them and fine you heavily.
After passing through customs you will re-check your bags for the flight to Punta Arenas and proceed to the appropriate gate for your flight. A representative of Mountain Trip will meet you at the airport in Punta Arenas. Day 1: Arrive Chile and Team Meeting Day 2: Orientation and gear weighing Day 3: Fly to Union Glacier and VBC Day 4: Hike to Camp 1 Day 5: Carry up ridge to High Camp Day 6: Rest Day Day 7: Move up ridge to High Camp Day 8: Summit Day Day 9: Descend to VBC Day 10-15: Contingency days Day 16: Fly to Punta Arenas Day 17: Fly home
DAY 1 Arrival / Team Meeting / Welcome Dinner Team members arrive in Punta Arenas. We will have a team meeting and gear check at the hotel. There are very few gear shops in Punta Arenas, so please make sure that you brought everything on the equipment list and that everything is in good condition and of the highest quality. We’ll discuss all of the following day’s events in detail and probably still have some time to explore the interesting port city of Punta Arenas. That evening we’ll all go out for a welcome dinner at one of several great restaurants. DAY 2 Antarctic Orientation This will be a busy day with an Antarctic orientation presented by the staff of Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions in the morning and gear weighing and sorting in the afternoon. ALE will take all of our gear except what we will wear for the flight the next day, so we need to be organized. DAY 3 Flight to Union Glacier & Vinson Base Camp Weather permitting, we make the 4.5 hour flight to the blue ice runway on the enormous Union Glacier. From there we will fly to Vinson Base Camp (VBC) at 7,000 feet (2134m) in a ski-equipped Twin Otter. At VBC we will spend more time reviewing glacier travel protocols and prepare our sleds with loads for our ascent. DAY 4 Branscomb Glacier We have a couple of options as to where we can camp on the Branscomb Glacier. This decision will be based on how the team is feeling on our first day on the trail. One camp is at the major bend in the glacier (about 9,600ft or 2920m) and the other is just around the corner from the moderately steep headwall at about 10,000 ft (37780m).
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I T I N E R A R Y DAY 5 Moving Up If we were able to put in our camp at 10,000 feet, we’ll carry loads up to high camp at 12,400 feet (37780m) and return to Camp 1 for the night. Otherwise we’ll move to the camp around the corner from the headwall. DAY 6 Climb Up The Ridge The route up to high camp climbs a steep ridge to gain the moderate slopes that lead to the summit of Vinson. The climbing up the ridge is moderately steep and is quite challenging with packs on. This is a long day and probably the most physical day of the expedition. We will be clipped in to fixed lines for almost 2000ft (600m) of climbing. The views back down the Branscomb Glacier can be astounding, so don’t forget to look back over your shoulder on your way up. This stretch presents some avalanche hazard, so we’ll need to hustle through some sections. DAY 7 Rest Day Rest Day. Most climbers will benefit from resting and acclimatizing after the push up the ridge, so we plan for this opportunity in our scheduling. DAY 8 Summit Day! Summit day. From high camp it is about a three mile traverse with 3,600ft (1100m) of elevation gain to the summit. The summit ridge offers fun climbing with sensational views of Ellsworth Range and the Ronne Ice Shelf. After summiting, we’ll spend the night back at high camp before descending the next day.
DAYS 10 -15 Contingency Days Days 10-15: Weather days. You’ve flown a long way and spent a lot of money to get here, these days are insurance so that you get the best possible shot at summiting. We’ll have plenty of delicious meals to keep us busy and the sledding and hiking out of Vinson base camp are phenomenal. We will then fly from VBC to the blue ice strip at the Union Glacier. DAY 16 Fly To Union Glacier Fly to Punta Arenas.
DAY 17 Fly home. This is very optimistic and you should heed our recommendations for booking your return ticket that are outlined in the Travel section of this booklet.
IT IS A SERIOUS, UNFORGIVING ENVIRONMENT. STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL, PRISTINE AND QUINTESSENTIALLY
DAY 9 Back to VBC Return to Vinson base camp.
WILD.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
SO WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? People climb peaks like the seven summits for many reasons. Some just love being in wild places, while others want to challenge themselves mentally and physically, and for many, it is to fulfill a lifelong dream. Climbing big mountains is serious business and every summit attempt requires a very deep sense of commitment and dedication. So please ask yourself, what are your goals on Vinson? Do your best to take an introspective look at the risk vs. reward as you make your decision. Any ascent to altitude at these low latitudes involves a certain amount of risk. Our use of conservative, experience-based decision-making will help minimize those risks and increase your chances for success, but ultimately, big mountains can be unforgiving, require serious commitment and reflection.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
BASE CAMP
We will essentially be camping at two Base Camps, the Union Glacier, which serves as the hub for all flights into and around the Vinson Massif and to the South Pole, and Vinson Base Camp.
I had the best 19 days of my life with your guides! I could not have picked a better bunch of guides and clients to climb with. –Kristina K.
The Union Glacier is an enormous glacier formed by the convergence of two other huge glaciers. This is a much more protected landing area than the former site at Patriot Hills and should allow flights to be quite punctual. The airstrip itself is located rather far from the camping area as the blue ice needed for the Ilushyn cargo jet is several kilometers from the snow required for launching the Twin Otters. We will be transported to camp by ALE and we will have access to comfortable “Weatherport” shelters replete with tables, chairs and full kitchen facilities. We will sleep in our tents at this camp, but eat and lounge in the Weatherports. The glacier around camp is very active and any exploration of the stunning peaks next to camp will only be possible in the company of a Mountain Trip guide. The potential for climbing amongst these peaks is incredible! A short, 25 minute flight in a ski-equipped Twin Otter will land us at Vinson Base Camp. We will again have separate eating and sleeping quarters and will eat very well while camped here. VBC is located on the Branscomb Glacier, which spills down from a col between Vinson and Mount Shinn. There is ample opportunity for side hikes, sledding and skiing, if we should find ourselves with extra time at VBC.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
SAFETY
Experienced Guides
We are a firm believer that guides working in an arctic or antarctic environment should have plenty of experience there before leading an expedition. All our guides have extensive experience bred on Denali that they have honed on Vinson, which enables them to bring a higher level of client care as they are very comfortable operating in cold places. Alpine climbing skills are relatively easy for anyone to learn, but the larger skill set of taking care of your clients, nurturing them and setting your own personal ambition aside to better help the team are, to a large extent, the result of a guide service’s “corporate culture.” Mountain Trip is an industry leader in developing exceptional guides long before we allow them to lead any of our expeditions. Our guides serve lengthy apprenticeships in the mountains working under patient, experienced mentors. We have an almost 100% return rate amongst our guides, and have many guides who have worked for us for 5-10 years or more. Our team of guides is caring and compassionate, yet they know how to get the job done when the situation dictates it.
Medical Training and Protocols
All our guides hold current medical certifications and are well versed in the most current protocols of altitude medicine, administered over by our company physician, Dr. Peter Hackett, perhaps the foremost altitude medicine practitioner in the US, and founder of the Institute for High Altitude Medicine in Telluride, Colorado.
Acclimatization Schedule
We carefully select our camps based on the dynamics of our team so as to maintain a very conservative acclimatization schedule. Encouraging early bookings enable us to get preferential seating on the Twin Otter Aircraft from the Union Glacier Base Camp We average approximately 1000’ (300m) of elevation gain per day, which we feel is an appropriate acclimatization schedule for almost every climber.
The Importance of Communication
On mountain communication is facilitated by our guides, but we cannot stress how important it is that you keep them apprised of how you are feeling on a daily basis. Our guides have deep resources to call upon if they know of a developing situation. Many mountain ailments or minor injuries are easily dealt with in their early stages, but can become serious if not addressed.
Pre-Trip Communication and Training
Our office is staffed by Antarctic veterans. Use us as a resource as you train for your expedition. A Vinson expedition represents a true test to a climber’s ability to manage his or her clothing layers so as to not get too cold or too hot. The technical aspects of the ascent are moderate and we will work with you in the months before your climb to ensure you are comfortable with all necessary skills. Good physical fitness is important and we encourage you to train specifically for this climb. We like to see all our climbers develop safe and self-reliant habits that will last long after our expedition. Contact us for details on what skills to specifically practice before your climb and to provide advice as you assemble your clothing and equipment.
First Aid and Health Checks
An important part of climbing in a remote area like the Ellsworth Mountains is to closely monitor everyone for signs of any potential health problems. Dehydration, coughs, or serious fatigue all can be managed if caught early and treated correctly. We carry wellequipped medical kits complete with pulse oximeters. This latter tool is helpful in distinguishing between certain ailments and an altitude related issue, and is only one part of larger comprehensive program of checking everyone’s health at each step on the hill. As we previously mentioned, communication with the guides is important so that we can help mitigate an arising health problem before it becomes a more serious issue.
Satellite Phones
We have a satellite phone on every expedition. Phones are primarily for emergent use and for communicating daily updates with our office, but are available for personal use as well.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
TEAM RESPONSIBILITY
Team members are ultimately responsible for their own well being. This includes making all necessary preparations to ensure good health and excellent physical conditioning both before and during an expedition. Our guides will oversee and discuss important issues along the way, but you should arrive in Punta Arenas very well prepared. Team members are responsible for understanding the conditions and risks that may exist on the climb and communicating closely with the guides. Over the course of an expedition, it is not unusual to have doubts or a change in focus. You need to keep in close communication with your guides at all times so that we can better help monitor your progress. Before an expedition, team members are responsible for having knowledge of all pre-departure information, preparing themselves to be in a very high level of fitness, and for assembling the appropriate clothing and equipment for the expedition. We will provide detailed guidance, but please contact us with any and all questions. While on the expedition, team members are responsible to listen closely to the guides at all times, maintain basic levels of hygiene and to conduct themselves respectfully with other team members, staff and members of other expeditions. We cannot stress how important open communication between everyone is on this trip. Physical Conditioning
A Vinson expedition is very challenging both physically and mentally. You must be prepared for that reality. Your physical conditioning is one of the few things you have control during your climb. You need to train sufficiently so that you do not worry if you are fit enough while on the expedition. You should know before flying to Punta Arenas that you are in top form and have the requisite abilities to move quickly and safely while on the expedition. If you have questions as to your physical preparedness, you need to begin training harder or skip a year until you feel you are not limited by fitness. We are happy to work closely together to make sure you have a solid training program to meet what Vinson takes, as this is a very important part of this expedition.
Paperwork
We must have your expedition application and initial deposit early in order to confirm your spot on an expedition. It is vital for a well run expedition to know far in advance how many people will be joining us. Early deposits help us get preferential seating on the Twin Otters to VBC. As we get closer to the expedition start, it becomes increasingly difficult to acquire seats on the flight from Punta Arenas. There is separate paperwork required by ALE as part of their contract to operate in Antarctica. We ask that you return this paperwork to us as punctually as possible. Remember that final payment is due at least 120 days before the start of the trip. Please refer to Cancellation and Refund page in your application packet for details on those policies
Insurance Waste Management
All human solid waste is carried out from Vinson Base Camp in barrels. Higher up, we use WAG bags for human waste. Each climber will be responsible for their personal WAG bag. Proper hygiene is critical and we encourage everyone to carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer with them. We encourage everyone to keep the mountain pristine and we strive to set a very positive example for other groups on the mountain in how to manage these issues.
We require all of our climbers to have personal medical and emergency medical/transportation insurance in place before a Vinson expedition. You must have $350,000 USD in evacuation coverage to partake on this expedition. We have found IHI (www.IHI.com) covers both emergency medical and evacuation with few limitations. US and Canadian residents can contact the Mountain Trip office for information on Travelguard policies, which provide the above coverages, as well as trip cancellation insurance. Additionally, a personal medical policy in your home country is highly recommended. We highly encourage trip cancellation insurance to protect against the unfortunate situation where you cannot join the team at the last minute, as this will protect you from the forfeiture of your deposits. Mountain Trip carries commercial liability insurance and fully insures all mountain staff.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
PRICING
NOT
INCLUDED • • • • • • • • • • • •
Unlimited pre-trip access to our office resources Experienced Mountain Trip Guides Airport transfers Up to three nights accommodations to Punta Arenas (shared room) Welcome dinner in Punta Arenas Scheduled flights between Punta Arenas and Union Glacier Scheduled flights between Union Glacier and Vinson Base Camp Weight included in Antarctic flights: 125 lbs (56Kg) total weight per person (including food and group gear) All food while in Antarctica, including gourmet meals at the Union Glacier camp and Vinson Base Camp All group equipment (tents, kitchen, ropes, sleds, med kit, satellite phone for emergency use and for calling in dispatches) Custom expedition dispatch blog for your climb, complete with podcasts from team members in Antarctica Assistance arranging for post-climb activities such as Torres Del Paine tour, penguin tours etc..
• • • •
Visa fee in Chile Flights to and from Punta Arenas Personal clothing and equipment Meals beyond the welcome dinner in Punta Arenas (breakfasts are included with the hotel) Additional nights’ accommodation in Chile Excess weight fees for Antarctic flights Travel and rescue insurance (REQUIRED! Contact us for required coverages and policy options) Costs incurred due to evacuation or unplanned departure from the mountain due to illness or other problems (Hence insurance requirement above) Costs of any additional tours while in Punta Arenas Costs incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Mountain Trip Customary gratuities for guides Costs as a result of force majeure
• • • • • • • •
Loving the live podcast! What a treat to hear the guides and clients as well as a comfort to loved ones at home anxious to hear voices from the “high”. –Daniel F.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
EXPECTATIONS EXPECTATIONS
We believe that successful expeditions are born of teamwork. Anyone can muddle up a hill, with someone holding his hand, tugging on the rope when the going gets tough. We hope to instill a sense in everyone who climbs with us that through active participation, you walk away with a more positive experience. Strive for quality in everything you do on the mountain, from lacing up your boots in the morning, to taking the extra minute to organize your kit in the tent so your smelly socks don’t infringe on your tent mate’s airspace. Climbing Vinson is a lot of hard work and we really feel that if you aim to do your best at every step of the way, you’ll look back at your expedition with a smile and that faraway, southerly glimmer in your eye. You have embarked upon a journey that will test your will, your patience, stamina, endurance and good humor. Antarctica is not a comfortable place. You will, at times, find yourself too hot or too cold, too thirsty or too full, moving too quickly or too slowly. There will be plenty of time to hang out and enjoy your surroundings, but at times you will need to focus all you energies at completing the task at hand. The better prepared you are before you fly on to the glacier, the more fully you will enjoy your climb. There will be opportunities on your expedition to review skills necessary for safely traveling in a glaciated environment and we’ll teach you a trick or two, however we do expect you to come to Antarctica at least moderately proficient in certain skills. Review the following list of skills and take some time before your trip to get outside and practice them. Taking a course that covers these skills is a great idea and even though you can learn a lot of the same skills with a good instructional book and a small hill in the local park; a course can serve as a good reality check for what you will encounter on a longer expedition. If you haven’t spent much time in the mountains and elect not to take a course, remember that keeping a good attitude with a willingness to learn while on your expedition will also go a long way, as your guides are a wealth of knowledge.
REQUIREMENTS KNOTS –Figure
8 on a bite –Clove Hitch –Double Fisherman’s –Water Knot (for webbing)
SNOW SKILLS –Basic
Ice Axe technique (including self arrest) –Crampon skills; French Technique (Alpinists have Great French Technique!) –Plunge stepping down a snow slope THE BASICS –Make
sure you know how to adjust your pack and harness –Practice putting on your crampons while sitting and standing (with your overboots on & off) –Familiarize yourself with how to affix your prussiks or ascenders. RECOMMENDED READING
Glacier Mountaineering by Andy Tyson, 2004 Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills by Steven Cox, Kris Fulsaas, 2003 Knots and Ropes for Climbers by Duane Raleigh, Mike Clelland, 1998 Mountain Trip is an outstanding company and we have always trusted your decisions regarding safety and your experience as climbers to take us to new levels in the challenging, but rewarding, world of adventure. - Alison
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GENERAL INFORMATION
TRAINING
Climbing a high mountain is a serious undertaking, which demands a lot from your body. This experience can only be fully enjoyed if you have prepared for it. Physical fitness is one of the subjective factors of mountaineering over which we can exert a great deal of control. It is especially important for the occasional mountaineer to realize that being fit can make dealing with objective hazards less dangerous. Your physical capacity for mountaineering is determined primarily by your level of aerobic power and physical strength. You must begin training well in advance of your expedition. Plan your training a minimum of six months before your trip. Make up a realistic training schedule for yourself, and stick to it! Do not count on getting into shape over the first days of your expedition. Seasoned mountaineers understand this and try to maintain a continual state of fitness. An unfit climber on an expedition can be a potentially dangerous liability to himself and to the safety and success of the rest of the team members. The fitness level of individual members of an expedition can make or break a climb. Your fitness level can also dictate just how much you will enjoy the experience. If you are over 30 years old and have been living a sedentary life for more than a year, you should have a complete physical before beginning your training program and you should begin your training program 5-6 months in advance of your expedition.
Begin your training program with low key exercise and then gradually build up both distance and intensity. Do not over-train at the start, but give your body and mind time to adjust to the training stress. Long, slow, distance training is one of the safest ways to train. After you have trained yourself so you can climb, hike, cycle, ski or whatever for several hours with minimum of fatigue, you will have the self confidence and body awareness for mountaineering.
You can’t control the weather. You can control your level of fitness. START RIGHT NOW
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GENERAL INFORMATION TRAINING SUNDAY
2-3 hours Long endurance activity with light pack (increase pack weight as your strength improves)
Aerobic Training and Endurance Training
Aerobic conditioning for mountaineering should involve long term, submaximum heart rate (65-85% of max HR) endurance type activities that stress and develop the cardiovascular system. Activities that fall into this category include cycling, running, Nordic skiing, brisk walking, swimming, hiking and mountaineering. To be effective, these endurance activities must be done at a constant heart rate (above 65% of max HR) for at least 30-60+ minutes, three to five days a week. At least one day should include a multi hour effort. Your maximum heart rate (HR) is roughly 220 less your age. Your mountaineering endurance program must eventually reflect the long, continuous hours spent climbing a high mountain. Running a few miles a week will be of little benefit. In preparing to climb a high mountain like Vinson; you should be able to run 6 to 8 miles in under 1 hour or cycle 60 miles in well under 4 hours. This provides a fitness safety margin you will need to have for high altitude mountaineering. Plan on at least 10-12 weeks of training.
Strength Training
MONDAY Rest Day
TUESDAY
60 minutes Endurance Cycle, ski, run, stair climber...
WEDNESDAY
30- 60 minutes Rest, Stretch, Strength
THURSDAY
60+ minutes Strength and Cardio
FRIDAY
30-60+ minutes Cardio
This is important to prepare your body for climbing steep terrain while carSATURDAY rying any sized pack. Strength training can entail working out with weights, 90+ minutes or climbing up hills, mountains, stairs, stair-climbers, etc with a pack. Getting Strength and Cardio used to carrying a medium (30-35lb.) pack is essential for success on Vinson. Begin with a light pack and build up to a weight that is more than our anticipated load. Too often we have seen team members who could run for hours, but could not carry a 30 pound pack for 4 to 5 hrs.. Spend at least one day a week carrying a pack. This will allow you to get used to your pack and fit it to your body.
Suggestions for a Training Schedule
Come up with a realistic training program that you can actually do. Write up a schedule for a few weeks at a time and change it as your body begins to respond to the exercise. Once you have developed a good fitness base and you can work out without too much stress, you should increase this to 5-6 days a week. Do not try to train 7 days a week, as your body needs at least one day of rest. The harder you train before a climb, the more you will be able to enjoy the experience and the greater will be your chances for success. So begin your training now: take it seriously and enjoy yourself on the mountain. So get that pack out and go for a hike! Training can often be achieved doing all the activities you love! The following is an example of an early training week starting 6 months prior to your climb. Exercise time should increase to double this as you get stronger and closer to the expedition departure date. It is important to taper off a harder training schedule to lower the risk of a training related injury. Many of us like to ski fast, bike hard but balance this with the risks of injury. Most of our guides replace traditional training with activities with that they really enjoy, so they can have a lot of fun while training! We are huge fans of the Crossfit Training program (www.crossfit.com) as well as mountain and road biking, skate, cross country and backcountry skiing, rock and alpine climbing.� Write down your Training Schedule and keep notes on your activities. Simply writing down your training schedule for the next few weeks can help you stick to it can really help improve your commitment. Write in a calendar what you will do and compare it to what you have done. Consider these training tips to be a minimum at which you should comfortable before you depart for your climb. The actual climb will be considerably harder in the number of hours and will be closer to your maximum cardiovascular and respiratory rates.
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EQUIPMENT list FOOTWEAR
CLOTHING
Boots fall into two categories, traditional double boots and triple boot systems with integrated gaiters. The goal is to have warm, comfortable feet so try on a variety of boots as they all fit differently and get the pair that fits the best.
Your clothing layers for Vinson basically consist of 5 layers for your torso and 4 for your legs. Additional layers are optional and should be selected based for hygiene or comfort.
MOUNTAINEERING DOUBLE BOOTS:
EXPEDITION PARKA (WITH HOOD): Marmot, Mountain Hardwear and The North Face all make good parkas, but our Guides’ Pick is the Feathered Friends Volant Jacket with Hood. There are some synthetic options such as the Patagonia D.A.S. Parka and the Wild Things Belay Jacket, however; down is recommended, as it is lighter and less bulky. SHELL JACKET: This should be a lightweight, yet functional piece that fits over your fleece layers. It does not need to be the burliest jacket on the market.
** All double boots need Overboots and Gaiters. Triple Boots do not.
Guides’ Pick! The Patagonia Ascensionist Jacket.
Recommended Triple Boots: –LA SPORTIVA “OLYMPUS MONS,” –SCARPA “PHANTOM 8000” Recommended Double Boots: –SCARPA “INVERNO” with High Altitude Liners or (better!) Intuition Liners. –LA SPORTIVA “SPANTIK,” or “BARUNTSE”
TORSO LAYERS
OVERBOOTS: Neoprene overboots such as 40 Below Purple Haze are best. OR and Wild Country insulated Overboots work well if they fit with your crampons and fit snugly. Supergaiters alone are not nearly warm enough for Vinson. GAITERS: These must be full height, such as the Black Diamond GTX Frontpoint Gaiter or Outdoor Re- search “Crocodiles.” Full coverage “Supergaiters” work great as well.
PRIMALOFT (PUFFY) JACKET: Primaloft jackets with windproof, nylon shells are far superior to thick fleece layers. We are fans of puffy jackets, as they are warmer for the weight and compress down much smaller than fleece. Guides’ Pick: Patagonia Micro-Puff Hooded Jacket. VEST: Puffy or down vest adds warmth to a light Expedition Parka. (OPTIONAL- but a nice addition for climbers with lighter expedition parkas) LIGHT-WEIGHT FLEECE: This should be made from 100 weight or Powerstretch fleece. A zip t- neck is good for ventilating.
Guides’ Pick! Do your pants really need gaiters? Some fit snugly enough at the cuff that they do not require gaiters to keep snow out. Give us a call...
Guides’ Pick! Patagonia R1 Flash Top or (better!) R1 Hoody.
BOOTIES: Synthetic or down fill booties. These are great for camp and tent comfort and allow you extra opportunity to dry out your mountain boots. They also help keep feet warm at night. Look for ones with good traction soles.
BASE LAYER: Synthetic or wool Top such as Light or MidWeight Capilene from Patagonia or the Me rino wool pieces from Io- Bio. A top with a “Zip-T” neck is nice for ventilating and you might con- sider a light color for warm days on the lower glacier.
EQUIPMENT list LEGS AND FEET
Consider how your layers will work as a system. Think about how easy or difficult it might be to change layers when the temperatures drop...or rise. How will you negotiate things when “nature calls?”
SHELL PANTS: These should be large enough to go over your base layers and must have side zippers. Again, these do not need to be the burliest Gore-Tex pieces you can find! DOWN or PUFFY PANTS: This layer must have side zippers, so they can be layered over your shell pants for easy and quick layer changes. Guides’ Pick! Patagonia Micro-puff pants SOFT SHELL PANTS: Used to be considered optional, “Soft Shell” layer is now considered standard due to the broad comfort range they provide. Pants made of Schoeller Dynamic or similar fabrics can be worn all the way to High Camp in lieu of less breathable shell pants. Guides’ Pick! Patagonia Alpine Guide Pants. “EXPEDITION WEIGHT” FLEECE PANTS: Light fleece pants to fit uner your soft shell layer. Pants with a smooth outer surface tend to layer more easily than those with a fuzzy surface. Guides’ Pick! Patagonia R1 or Wool 3 pants BASE LAYER PANTS: Synthetic or wool Bottoms such as Light or MidWeight Capilene or Wool 2 from Patagonia. REGULAR UNDERWEAR: Three to four changes should do the trick, although ladies might want a few more. Look for synthetics such as Patagonia Capilene. Ladies might also want a couple synthetic sports bras. SOCKS: 3 - 5 sets of wool or synthetic medium/heavy weight socks. Make certain your sock s fit with your boots! The new system boots don’t need as thick a sock as the boots of old. Guides’ Tip! Save a fresh pair of socks for summit day! You can cache worn socks at Low Camp and take fresh ones up high
HANDS AND FEET
DO NOT SKIMP ON THE QUALITY OF YOUR GLOVES AND MITTENS!!
GLOVES: 1 or 2 pairs of lightweight gloves with some wind protection. We really like the Shoeller fabric versions, as they are robust, yet not too bulky. Guides’ Pick! Outdoor Research “Vert” Gloves INSULATED GLOVES: Warm, insulated gloves with a gauntlet are the workhorse on cold mountains. Guides’ Pick: Black Diamond “Guide Gloves” are bomber and have removable liners for ease of drying. SUMMIT MITTENS: Thick, warm, non-constricting mittens made of pile, Primaloft or down. Guides’ Pick! Outdoor Research Alti Mitts. They aren’t cheap, but are extremely warm (Divide the cost by 10 fingers!). WARM HAT: One warm hat or two hats of different weights. Wool or pile is fine. Your hat must provide ear protection. BUFF: This is the brand name of a lightweight neckgaiter that can also serve as a hat or headband. (Optional)- but the choice of virtually ALL of our guides! FACE MASK: Neoprene or Windstopper. Guides’ Pick! Neoprene ski masks with a light fleece lining SUN HAT: Baseball type or (better!) wide brimmed sun hat for the intense sunshine of the lower mountain. You can combine a baseball hat with a bandana for good sun protection-again, think synthetic. HAND WARMERS: Bring 6+ sets of the disposable versions. Toe warmers work well too and can keep camera batteries warm on summit day. GLACIER or SUN GLASSES: They must provide side protection and filter 100% UVA and UVB rays.
EQUIPMENT list NOSE GUARD: You can purchase one (Beko makes nice ones) or make one out of duct tape, but this will save your nose on sunny days. SKI GOGGLES: For use during storms or really cold spells. UV-protected Amber or Rose lenses work great.
PACKS
EXPEDITION PACK: 5500+ cu in. or 85+ liters, with emphasis on the “+”. You’ll need a large pack in order to carry your gear, plus group food & equipment. The Mountain Hardwear BMG is a nice pack. Guides’ Pick! Osprey Aether 85 Get to know your pack. Train with it! LARGE ZIPPERED DUFFELS: Two large duffels for transporting gear on sleds and for use as gear storage back in Punta Arenas.
SLEEPING GEAR
EXPEDITION SLEEPING BAG: Rated to at least 40 below. Marmot Cwm, and the Mountain Hardwear 5th Dimension are all great bags. Although synthetic bags are getting much better, you should have a compelling reason for choosing one, as they are still substantially heavier than down bags. What ever you choose, be sure it is sized to fit comfortably with your clothes on. Guides’ Pick! Feathered Friends Snowy Owl is the warmest bag we’ve ever snuggled in! COMPRESSION STUFF SACK: There are now numerous “sil-nylon” compression stuff sacks on the market that are very lightweight. These are essential for sleeping bags and one is recommended for your summit clothes, such as your parka, mitts and warmest pants. 2 SLEEPING PADS: You need two pads, with one being a closed cell pad such as a Ridge Rest or a Karrimat. Therm-a-Rest inflatable pads have traditionally been the warmest and most comfortable, however; the new Exped down-filled air mattresses work really well if you practice inflating them before your trip. Guides’ Pick! Exped Downmat 9 paired with a Deluxe Ridge Rest.
TECHNICAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
ICE AXE (with leash): 70-80 cm length works well for Vinson.
Guides’ Pick! Black Diamond Raven Pro CRAMPONS: 12 point crampons that FIT YOUR BOOTS! Step in or straps work equally well, just make sure step-in versions fit with your overboots. As a rule of thumb, aluminum crampons are not suitable for this climb. HARNESS: Your climbing harness will probably need adjustable leg loops. The Black Diamond Blizzard and Couloir are both lightweight and functional. We recommend one with gear loops that are attached to the bottom of the waist belt, as these are much more comfortable under a pack hipbelt. ASCENDER and PRUSSIK: Bring 5 meters of 6 mm cord prussiks cord and a full -handled ascender for use on the fixed lines going up to high camp. Guides’ Pick! The Petzl Ascension has a large, comfortable handle and is a proven winner. CARABINERS: Bring three large locking carabiners and five regular carabiners. Bent-gate biners are very sexy, but are not appropriate for this expedition, so leave them at home with your neon lycra sport-climbing tights. Mark them with colored tape for identification. Guides’ Pick! Black Diamond Neutrinos are very lightweight. PERLON CORD: Two, 20 meter lengths of 5 mm accessory cord in two colors for sled and pack tie offs. SKI POLES: Adjustable, 3-section ski poles work best for traveling. Make certain they have broad, “powder” baskets. Black Diamond Flick Lock poles are recommended, as they are less prone to spontaneously collapsing. Three section poles travel more easily than two section versions, but are slightly less strong.
EQUIPMENT list ESSENTIAL PERSONAL ITEMS
OPTIONAL PERSONAL ITEMS
-STUFF BAGS (for your own items) -(2)ONE QT. WIDE MOUTH WATER BOTTLES -(2) INSULATED COVERS (one for each water bottle) -1 LITER THERMOS -LARGE PLASTIC CUP for eating (2-4 cup measuring bowl or Rubbermaid storage bowl) -INSULATED CUP for hot drinks -LARGE PLASTIC (LEXAN) SPOON -LIP CREAM (with SPF) -SUN CREAM (3-4 ounces in 1 ounce tubes) -TOILET PAPER (1 roll) -TOILET KIT (Tooth brush & paste, floss, Handi-wipes, hand sanitizer- keep it small) -SWISS ARMY KNIFE (optional) -P-BOTTLE (wide mouth collapsible Nalgene work great- they make a 96 ounce version that is HIGHLY recommended! Ladies, look for a funnel adapter and practice before your trip!)
-CAMERA lots of film or extra memory -BOOKS or E-Reader for storm day reading and keeping sane in the event we get stuck at Union waiting for a flight -DIARY & PENCIL -ALTIMETER WATCH -FOOT POWDER -MAPS -BANDANAS -NECK GAITOR -SPARE SUN GLASSES -PERSONAL MUSIC PLAYER(iPOD, MP3, etc)
-PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT (Blister kit, aspirin, antacids, lozenges, Ibuprofen) Please consult us and your physician before bringing any prescription medications. Mountain Trip will have a complete medical kit.
Guides’ Tips: 1. Make sure your gear works for you! Try everything out before you leave home. Vinson base camp is not the place to discover that your boots are too small or that your pack is not the right size. 2. Fly with your boots and glacier glasses in your carry-on. Just in case...
US N O B FEATHERED FRIENDS in
Seattle will give you a 10% discount if you tell them you are joining us on an expedition. www.featheredfriends.com +1-206-262-6292
MOUNTAIN TRIP // VINSON MASSIF
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OUR SOAP BOX Mountain Trip is committed to Low Impact Practices in all aspects of our operations. We travel among some of the most beautiful mountain environments in the world and believe it is our responsibility to protect these places in whatever way we can. We practice the “Leave No Trace” policy in the wilderness to minimize our impact in the pristine mountains where we lead our trips. Perhaps nowhere is this ethic more important than in Antarctica. As mountain guides, we are lucky to be able to travel to remote locations around the globe and visit different peoples and places. While acknowledging that our mere presence in some regions is an impact, we will always do our best to learn about and respect local cultures in all our travels. Moving forward into the second decade of the new millennium, we need to be conscious of the fact that the choices we make affect the footprint that we leave on this planet. We try to do our part to make this world a better place by purchasing healthy expedition food with minimal packaging and packing out our trash on expeditions. We support vendors who practice lower impact policies. Our Mountain Trip T-shirts are made from organic cotton and we utilize a solar powered web service to power our website. Since 2008, we have been purchasing carbon offsets to reduce the impact of our operations. As a company, we invest heavily in our guides and we think that you will notice what a difference this makes on our trips. Mountain Trip has always felt more like a family than a corporation and this is a big reason that so many of our guides and climbers return year after year. A result is that all of our lead guides are among the most experienced and respected in the world and our climbers are among the most satisfied. We encourage you to call our office with any questions or comments. When you call, you will reach someone who has climbed Vinson and can give you advice based on personal experience not based on a informational “cheat sheet.” We love what we do and are excited to share the high mountains with you. Thanks for your trust and we’ll see you in Tierra Del Fuego.
MOUNTAIN TRIP // VINSON MASSIF
// www.MountainTrip.com