a special thank you to
Jordan Almissis, Audrey Andrews, Dalton Burney, the Chi Omega Tau Chapter, Lily Gisclair, Jessie Gordon, Demi Grauer, Maya Guy, Rod’Kendrick Harrison, Gage Hillman, Mia Hodge, Maggie House, Layton Lawhead, The School of Journalism and New Media, Aetheria Matthews, Chloe Mull, the Ole Miss Student Activities Fee, Alyssa Paranteau, Seija Patrick, Miles Phillips, the Phi Mu Alpha Delta Chapter, Mia Powe, Molly Pugh, Lane Taylor, Dr. Debora Wenger, Anslee Wilson, Ethan Witt, the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council, & every reader, follower, and supporter of Square.
We would be nothing without you and your loyalty.
Thank you.
With love,
letter from the editors
The time I have spent with this team and my co-editor, Elena Ossoski, has inspired me and pushed me to be my best in a way nothing else has. I am incredibly thankful to each of my friends and colleagues for giving me the opportunity to take this path of creativity beside them, to collaborate and explore our shared patriotism through our mutual love of fashion. This exploration of our country’s effect on fashion was not only educational, but transformative for my appreciation of the United States’ vitality in the dialogue of our modern zeitgeist.
. .
So much love and so many long hours have gone into this magazine. To say I am grateful for the dedication of this team, my fellow directors, and my co-editor is an understatement. Elena, I can only hope to continue the excellence you have gracefully built over the past three years. And to our dear readers, I hope the love we at Square poured into American Made shines. We couldn’t do this without your love and support.
It should come as no surprise that being a part of Square Magazine has been the most impactful part of my time at Ole Miss, yet I still feel overwhelmed by the cumulative effect of this irreplaceable experience during the final days before graduation. This year, we explored the Americana phenomenon to pay homage to our country. We explored our country’s beloved traditions and time-honored classics in nostalgic scenes behind the wheel, through a Warhol-worthy lens, and in the colorless vibrancy that can only come from a truly captivating black and white portrait. I am so grateful to have spent my senior year working alongside this team, celebrating how fashion has shaped our country’s society throughout history. It has been a privilege to lead this devoted team with Emma. My heart will forever be with this magazine and our community. It is bittersweet to have Square become a memory of my past, but I know that it will continue to enrich and guide my present and future. Thank you to everyone who loves, reads, and supports the Square family.
square magazine
Mary Hunter Adair Creative Team Alex Arnette Business Team Creative Team Liv Briley Copy Editor Grace Barrett Business Team Olivia Blackwell Editorial TeamART
Mary Hunter Adair
Suzanne Brown
Emma Greene
Annabelle Lawson
Elena Ossoski
DESIGN
Dabney Flynt
Emma Greene
Elena Ossoski
Ryan Strickland
Becca Tyner
Aliza Warner
PHOTOS
Grace Brydge
Ruth Emmerich
Akilah Frye
Emma Greene
Joseph Hogue
Kathryn Hosp
Elena Ossoski
Kaitlyn Steinroeder
visuals
of DECADES DENIM
“DENIM is seen in every SHAPE and FORM of the past while continuing to be REINVENTED. ”
enim has defined American
fashion for nearly two centuries. A sturdy cotton textile characterized by its unique weft, it weaves cultures together across the country. Denim jeans can be found in the wardrobe of almost any American. Previously associated almost exclusively with manual laborers, jeans evolved into a fashion sensation years after their original debut in the 1860s.
The jeans we know today were invented by James W. Davis, a Nebraska tailor hoping to innovate and strengthen the pants he produced for miners. Davis exchanged the typical metal fasteners used in the pockets and fly of his pants for copper rivets. These reinforced the pants at the seams, providing extra longevity for the garment. The redesign was met with great success, leading Davis to pursue a patent. Unable to obtain the funds, Davis turned to businessman Levi Strauss. On May 20, 1873, Davis and Strauss were granted a patent, and the iconic blue jeans we think of today were born.
While denim blue jeans are commonly associated with America, their origins span the globe. The term “jeans” comes from the word “genoese,” used to describe the tough twill trousers worn by merchant sailors from the Italian city Genoa. “Denim” originates from 17th-century NȊmes, France, formerly referred to as serge de NȊmes, a cotton twill cloth consisting of wool and silk.
The denim industry first exploded in the 1950s following the influential careers of young stars like Elvis Presley, Marlon Brando, and James Dean. For the first time since their inception, denim jeans were being worn for style rather than utility. Cult films such as Rebel Without a Cause and The Wild One, starring Dean and Brando respectively, as well as subculture groups like “greasers” catapulted denim jeans into popular culture. Soon, denim and leather would be deemed the nonconformist uniform, provoking controversy and an eventual ban on jeans in many American public schools.
Western films in the early 20th century were some of the first to feature jeans on the big screen. Films starring John Wayne, Gary Cooper, and Clint Eastwood cemented the association between cowboys and jeans for generations to come.
“the American admiration for denim has yet to waver”
Denim first made its way into women’s fashion during World War II. At the onset of the war, women were sent to perform labor-intensive jobs left vacant by the men called to serve. Denim-clad women symbolized by Rosie the Riveter became the face of female wartime efforts. When the war had come to an end and the men had returned home to resume their civilian duties, denim did not disappear from women’s fashion.
Jeans have since remained a staple among individuals who identify with counterculture movements. In the 1960s and 70s, “hippies” and anti-war protesters wore jeans in an attempt to align themselves with the “working class”, quickly followed by feminists who were aiming to dismantle the status quo of gender.
The fabric, originally created for protection and comfort while working, eventually took over runways. In 1976, Calvin Klein was the first to feature jeans on the runway, jumpstarting the designer jean craze of the 1980s. This modish take on denim was interrupted by the very company that put jeans on the map: Levi Strauss & Company. Levi’s revived ring-spun denim with their “Back to Basics” campaign in the 1990s.
Despite the dip in sales following the Levi’s campaign, designer jeans quickly resurfaced due to their advanced of finishing techniques, fabric quality, and garment processes.
Rising popularity of designer denim in the 1980s coincided with the exploration of denim’s capabilities. Denim quietly made its way into the punk, rock, and grunge communities. Acid wash, skinny fit, and distressing were tools used to further selfexpression and remain dissentient.
Today, denim is seen in every shape and form of the past and continuously reinvented by designers and fashion lovers alike. Denim garments are a seadfast reminder of the trend cycle. New denim fads draw inspiration from denim styles from past eras. Washes, hems, lengths, and styles may constantly change, but the American admiration for denim has yet to waver.
EXTRA, EXTRA, EXTRA!
BY BROOKLYN HOFFMANExtravagance comes to mind when thinking of American culture. Americans are known for exceeding what is often considered reasonable or appropriate, embodying extravagance in all that they do. While this can be seen as negative, it also gives life to an entire genre of style. The concept of “go big or go home” is evident in the way many American designers have built empires by embracing their favor of whimsical styles and vibrant colors.
For Americans, the urge to stand out in a crowd is instilled from childhood. In a country of fast-paced media and everchanging popularity among people of influence, the next big thing is always right around the corner.
“...individuality is not only prominent in America but celebrated...”
While other countries, specifically in Europe, have culturally adopted a minimalist elegance as the norm, the United States prides itself on its lack of uniformity, love of color, and celebration of individuality. On the other hand, many European countries have upheld a longstanding reputation within the fashion community through elegance in their collective fashion sense. The social norm in Europe is to appear put together; flashy colors and bold prints are scarce while neutral tones and simple silhouettes prevail.
Comfort is the core of American style. The typical wardrobe for Americans – especially younger generations – includes an array of athletic and loungewear. Retailers have learned to profit from this preference, which has resulted in the wild success of high-quality athleticwear companies in recent years.
In other countries, it is uncommon to see hoodies and sneakers out on the streets, as many may think this relaxed way of dressing in public is distasteful. In the United States, communities embracing “sneakerhead culture” have emerged as both a statement and an identity that pays homage to the laidback streetwear of the 1980s. Not only is loungewear profitable, but a vital part of urban fashion and selfexpression.
“Americans approach fashion in an individualistic manner. ”
The biggest trends here tend to be created by the citizens themselves and continue to evolve daily. The essence of American fashion reflects the country’s ever-changing identity and independence.
Lauren’s Legacy
made in the USA
BY OLIVIA BLACKWELLMade in the USA tags have become a growing symbol of quality, ethics, and sustainability. With increasing awareness about labor practices and environmental impact, American-made clothing holds a distinct appeal. The resurgence of domestic manufacturing in fashion reflects a shift in consumer preferences toward shopping locally and valuing transparency in production. As brands embrace designing and manufacturing on home turf, they are offering a product as well as a narrative of authenticity and social responsibility that resonates with conscientious shoppers. There is a sense of patriotism every time we put on a piece of clothing with a “Made in the USA” tag. The allure of this label has transcended into a prominent selling factor. While advocating for domestically crafted products is not groundbreaking, it continues due to the level of craftsmanship that is perceived to accompany domestically produced clothing. Quality craftsmanship represents an unwavering pursuit of excellence and artistry engrained in the American spirit. It is this dedication that both shapes product design and the rich cultural heritage and pursuit of innovation in every corner of American society.
In the 19th century, access to home sewing machines, paper patterns, and textiles made sewing at home in America more prominent and affordable than ever before. The invention of the sewing machine democratized fashion through mass production, making trends more accessible, and laying the groundwork for modern industry. These technologies also created space for fashion to transition to a form of self-expression and individuality for many creative women who found themselves able to sew in the comfort of their own homes.
With its soft touch and versatility, cotton stands as a cornerstone fabric in American fashion. Beloved for its breathability and comfort, cotton embodies casual style. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, cotton’s significance extends to its historical roots, tracing back to the country’s agrarian past. Today, the fashion industry is re-evaluating cotton’s place
due to its environmental impact. Some sustainability-focused brands are promoting responsibly sourced varieties such as organic and recycled cotton. Despite evolving trends, cotton still seamlessly blends tradition with contemporary style.
While historically associated with Eastern origins, silk’s integration into American fashion reflects a fusion of cultures and global influences. This exquisite fabric has adorned everything from red carpet looks to everyday wear, exuding sophistication and grace. Its natural sheen and lightweight texture make it a coveted choice for evening gowns, scarves, and tailored suits. In an ever-changing landscape, silk endures as a symbol of refinement and time-honored craftsmanship in the diverse palette of American fashion.
Linen, with its breezy sophistication, embodies a relaxed yet refined style. From airy shirts to relaxed trousers and sundresses, linen’s versatility transcends seasons, offering a cool and crisp touch. Rooted in centuries-old traditions, its contemporary revival speaks to a modern ethos of conscious consumption and enduring style.
“linen’s versatility transcends seasons”
“silk endures as a symbol of refinement and time-honored craftsmanship”
Staples The
BY AUDREY COOPERAmerican culture is multifaceted, consisting of not only the many cultures and backgrounds that make up its population, but also the original designs and clothing that have been integrated into society. These staple pieces have been styled by the masses and remained constants in the everchanging fashion zeitgeist. From the infamous blue jeans that highlight individualism to the classic white t-shirt that serves as a blank canvas for expression and creativity, these everyday styles epitomize the American wardrobe.
The motorcycle jacket was originally designed as a rain jacket. Irving Schott, son of a Russian immigrant, created the jacket alongside his brother in New York City’s Lower East Side in 1913. In 1928, Schott developed a revolutionary jacket shape: a closecut leather coat that would not
bunch up or get in the way while driving or riding on a motorcycle. Schott named the jacket “Perfecto” after his favorite cigar and sold the first rendition at a Harley Davidson store in NYC for only five dollars. By the 1950s, the jacket had hit Hollywood, with Marlon Brando wearing a Perfecto jacket in The Wild One. Infamous singers like Michael Jackson and Prince also favored the leather jacket for its bad boy appeal and persona.
The white t-shirt can be traced back to the early 1800s when the English inventor William Cotton invented the commercial knitting machine and brought the shirt to the masses. In America, the shirt became very popular as early as 1901 as an undergarment in a two-piece underwear set. These t-shirts were deemed inappropriate to wear in public, except by laborers and soldiers.
Prior to the washing machine, people wore cotton undergarments in order to protect their nice clothing from the oils and sweat that their skin exuded. This notion was completely altered in the early 1950s following Marlon Brando's award-winning role in A Streetcar Named Desire, and in James Dean’s 1955 Rebel Without A Cause, in which both stars are spotted wearing the classic t-shirt as a regular day-to-day garment paired with pants or a leather jacket. Thanks to Brando and Dean, the shirt became popular among younger populations and would become an emblem for rebellion and nonconformity, catapulting the piece into the modern staple we know, love, and still wear today.
The first pair of aviators were developed to fill a pressing military need. Prior to World War II, military pilots were in desperate need of effective protective eyewear to shield their eyes from the sun. The company Bausch & Lomb worked exclusively with pilots to generate a pair of sunglasses capable of shielding the heavy sun rays found in higher altitudes. In 1937, the aviator style sunglasses became available to the public, marketed
Many historians credit the ancient Sumerians for inventing the first red lipstick by crushing red rocks into a powder to tint the lips red, while others credit the Egyptian elites who created a vibrant red paste for Cleopatra. Regardless of who created the iconic lip color, its visual statement signals many different allures in the women who wore it, whether it be seduction, a declaration of social status, or an indication of confidence.
American women first began wearing the shade notably in 1912 during the march for equal rights. Infamous suffrage leaders like Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Charlotte Perkins Gilman loved the lipstick’s ability to intimidate men, adopting the color as a show of defiance and independence. As the women's suffrage movement spread worldwide, so did the popularity of red lipstick.
The origin of the cowboy boot is deeply rooted in legends and lore; therefore, there is no origin date for these famous boots. Americans headed out west following the end of the Civil War, moving their cattle across the country in military-grade boots. Since these utilitarian boots did not fit the harsh conditions of riding in stirrups for days at a time, one cowboy took his concerns to a shoemaker who designed a functional boot that quickly spread in popularity across the nation. In the 1930s and 40s, the cowboy boot experienced another surge in popularity due to the influence of Hollywood’s Western films. Bootmakers began experimenting with hand tooling, patterned stitching, and colorful designs to enhance the overall style of the boot.
Regardless of the trends that come and go, these pieces remain to be pillars of American style and wardrobes across the world.
The Land of the FASHIONABLE FREE &
BY ABBY FULMARSince declaring independence, America has become synonymous with freedom of expression. The country’s boundarybreaking allegiance to innovation influences individuals around the world to use fashion as a form of communication. When exploring why America differs from countries around the globe, it seems that our country recognizes the importance of expressing one’s individuality through fashion at a very young age. Our youth has a significant impact on the fashion industry’s success in America, but just how have they come to define and establish this country as the land of the fashionable and free?
The desire to express individuality through fashion is an innate trait for many. Rummaging through parents’ closets or dressing up as a favored superhero on Halloween play pivotal roles in finding a sense of style for many American children. Many children express strong sartorial preferences before they have entered grade school. This begs the question: can limiting children’s ability to express themselves impact how their culture is perceived in years to come? It may be that America’s youth is more accustomed to freedom of expression through fashion compared to our neighbors around the globe.
Roughly 20% of U.S. public schools uphold strict uniform requirements. This statistic reflects a harsh contrast to other countries such as South Korea and the United Kingdom, where uniforms are enforced in more than 90% of schools. While many schools in America maintain dress codes, uniforms have disappeared from a large number of elementary and middle schools with the hopes of promoting creativity and self-expression. It can be argued that with the implementation of uniforms, children are stripped of the chance to find their style and explore their likes and dislikes.
The fashion freedom that exists for grade school children in the United States directly correlates to the success of some of America’s most famous brands. While France is closely associated with the house of Chanel, and Italy with Prada, American style is frequently identified on the global scale in relation to massive brands like Ralph Lauren, Gap, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger. These quintessential American names emphasize advertising to youth, a successful strategy that could not be executed if 90% of our children wore uniforms each day.
The brands that define the United States today take pride in being accessible and affordable. When children have the opportunity to choose what they wear daily, they are exposed to different styles and have the chance to embrace their individuality at a much younger age than their international peers.
“For children, creativity is as natural as breathing, until they are cultured out of it.”
Catherine Davis Hayes
Clothing and fashion shape cultural identity. By prioritizing freedom of expression and valuing the perspectives of our youth, Americans have solidified themselves as forward-thinkers, innovators, and disrupters within the fashion industry.
WHERE MUSIC MEETS STYLE
BY AKILAH FRYENatural hairstyles and jewelry shaped like peace signs and flowers became symbols of this era. This style’s popularity continued in the 1970s, proving that freedom and individuality were always in vogue.
The disco and pop styles in both music and fashion of the 1970s represented a flashy and liberating lifestyle. With the disco ball as a symbol of the decade, wardrobes were filled with sequins, glitter, and metallic fabrics. Donna Summer, known as the “Queen of Disco,” had a glamorous aura that exuded through her jumpsuits, high-slit dresses, and layered fabrics. Flared bell-bottom pants, bold, deep V-neck jumpsuits, and figure-hugging wrap dresses popularized by Diane von Furstenburg ruled the disco era along with loud colors and vibrant materials that provided a feeling of liberation.
The 1980s were a diverse era in fashion as music genres like hip-hop, pop, and glam metal contributed to a wide range of trends in America. Edgy glam with lace gloves, bold makeup looks, and layered accessories took center stage with pop icons Madonna and Michael Jackson entrancing the masses.
The rise of hip-hop in the early 1980s, with notable artists like Run-D.M.C. and LL Cool J setting the trends, introduced a bold and self-expressive street style. Gold chains, tracksuits, Kangol berets, and sneakers from massive brands like Adidas were a staple then and still are to this day.
In the same decade, glamorous metal style was influenced by bands like Guns N’ Roses who rebelled against the “typical” looks for bands and incorporated grunge into their style. Teased hair, heavy makeup, leather, and bold prints still resonate with rock artists and their fans today.
American Sweethearts
BY LIV BRILEYSince the dawn of mass media and television, there have been public figures society has held above the rest. The terms “America’s Sweetheart” and “Hollywood Heartthrob” have been used to describe the faces of the zeitgeist in decades past, but there has never been strict criteria to earn these labels. Still, the figures typically crowned as sweethearts and heartthrobs certainly share stereotypical standards of American beauty that coincide with their times in the spotlight.
One of the first women to ever be dubbed “America’s Sweetheart” was Mary Pickford, the undisputed starlet of the silent film era. Pickford encapsulated American beauty ideals of the time and is credited as the first to define the ingénue in cinema. This trope, also referred to as “the girl next door” or the “damsel in distress,” would go on to define many of America’s sweethearts in years to follow.
Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra were among the first men to be renowned for their heartthrob status. Grant was one of Hollywood’s first true leading men, known for his lighthearted approach to acting and his many short-lived marriages. Sinatra shared a similar playful reputation with Grant, with a clean and sophisticated style to match his optimistic charisma.
Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn were both worthy of the sweetheart title, though they encapsulated different beauty and fashion standards of their time. Hepburn’s elegant, refined style was contrasted with Monroe’s bold, sensual tastes. Though both were leading ladies of film, the types of characters they played related greatly to their personal styles and how they were perceived by the public.
&
& Hollywood Heartthrobs
It was in this same time period that stars such as James Dean and Paul Newman rose to fame, again epitomizing the differences in American ideals of the 1950s and 1960s. Newman was the typical “all-American”: clean-shaven, devoted to his family, and a quintessential Hollywood star. Dean, on the other hand, was the poster boy for teenage rebellion. Despite his tragic death at only 24 years old, Dean remained an iconic figure of 1950s counterculture and brought an edge to the heartthrob persona.
Later into the 20th century, stars like Meg Ryan and Julia Roberts earned their sweetheart status due to their wild popularity in the American film industry. Ryan was the ultimate girl-next-door, starring in some of the most beloved romantic comedies of all time. Roberts shared a similar charm and youthful exuberance in her most prominent roles, though her characters tended to be a bit more outspoken than those of sweethearts past.
There was no shortage of heartthrobs at the height of their fame in the 1990s, with George Clooney, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Brad Pitt consuming the screen. The public dubbed each with titles that reflected the stars’ spin on the traditional heartthrob archetype: Clooney representing the sophisticated leading man, DiCaprio the dreamy newcomer, and Pitt the sexy action star. Though each had their own personalities, all maintained the confident charisma necessary to be deemed one of Hollywood’s golden boys.
In modern times, these labels are not as structured and more inclusive. American beauty standards have expanded to represent the diversity of the population, with different backgrounds, races, and body types stepping into the spotlight. Zendaya, Margot Robbie, and Kim Kardashian are some of the biggest names today, but share fewer similarities than those in times past. The title is no longer about a specific standard of beauty, but rather about whose career is making an impact at any given point.
“the title is no longer about a specific standard of beauty”
This extends to the heartthrob category, with stars like Michael B. Jordan, Harry Styles, and Pedro Pascal all redefining what it means to be a leading man. As technology advances and social media allows news to cycle through at rapid speeds, the concept of “America’s Sweetheart” and “Hollywood Heartthrob” have adjusted to include whoever the most viral stars of the moment are in their respective fields rather than a sole idol reigning supreme in the public eye.
“don't pay any attention to what they write about you, just measure it in inches.”
“the best thing about a picture is that it never changes, even when the people in it do. ”
TheEmergenceof inAmerica
The emergence of pop art in America marked the beginning of the artistic evolution beyond the confines of traditional art. The pop art movement acted as a mirror of American society after World War II. The rise of television allowed pop culture to take hold of the masses as they returned to civilian life. Pop art icons Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Keith Haring looked for their inspiration in everyday objects, enhancing them to reflect the optimistic culture that blossomed in 1950s America.
Warhol was the face of pop art in America. He explored the relationship between art and consumerism through his infamous mass-production techniques created in his studio, “The Factory.” Warhol’s factory acted as a home base for many emerging artists. Their collective work was the foundation for the a pop art craze that swept the country.
Warhol’s art was characterized by his bold sense of creativity that redefined consumer culture. He made a name for himself through his use of innovative techniques like silkscreening to explore the influence of celebrity culture, consumerism, and mass media, as well as its impact on contemporary society. Warhol also explored mediums like painting, sculpting, photography, and film to redefine everyday objects, turning them into something of greater value that was worthy of a second glance. His most notable piece is easily the depiction of Campbell’s soup cans. Warhol found his inspiration in the forerunners of the pop art movement. Individuals like Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg showed Warhol what it was like to stretch the boundaries of traditional art and create something his own.
In the 1960s, Roy Lichtenstein joined Warhol in notority as he established his own style of pop art. Lichtenstien’s expertise manifested in comic books. Through the use of bold outlines and bright hues, he made a name for himself in the world of comics, further bolstering pop art’s prominence. His most famous pieces “In the Car” and “Whaam!” are easily recognized by casual viewers today.
Keith Haring took the art early 1980s. He is best kno inspired technique that is Haring’s art emphasized t genre, yet includes elemen which Haring shared his a Haring was able to broadc social and political issues. pieces were “Crack is Wac Fear.” For Haring, art was ensure his voice was hear for bridging the gap bet public which in turn, cr empowerment.
The influence of pop art continue to integrate el commercialism in their have established their p murals, sculptures, and
As consumerism contin art continues to respon work just as Warhol d are heard as they celebr societal norms. Pop art considered “normal” in this day.
All content aims to entertain the Square audience within the realms of fashion, beauty, and lifestyle. While remaining experimental and forward-thinking, we at Square hope to deliver high-quality content, showcasing the best the world of fashion has to offer. As a team and a publication, we value creativity, excellence, and innovation. Our goal is to not to mimic the content of other publications, but rather take note of what those before us have done to create respectable original work that depicts the range of abilities our team holds.
We do not want to merely be a part of the herd. We are selective in what we create and feature to protect our mission, recognizing that the most clickable story or image is not always the most important. We do not want to follow the masses through replication. The most buzzworthy names and styles are not necessarily the most fashionable or intriguing. At Square, our goal is to motivate others to create with content that is as aspirational as it is inspirational.
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f o u r t h e d i t i o n