Washington Post Magazine Sketches

Page 1

4 DOUBLE PAGE SPREADS For The Washington Post Magazine DATE LAB

pump up the volume, make hipper, more POP,

va voom!


Date Lab

The Rules of #326

7:30 P.M., BLACKSALT, PALISADES Carolyn: Before the date, I’d been asking my clients and students if I should wear this neat, open-back dress that I have, or jeans and a nice shirt. One client said, “Definitely wear the dress.” I got to the restaurant maybe 10 minutes early, sat down and ordered a glass of wine. Then Van came in. He has a friendly face; he’s really clean-cut, well-dressed and fit-looking. But even though he’s tall and strong, he doesn’t look like a big guy. I’m bigger than most girls, so I tend to like guys that have that powerful physical presence. Van: She’s definitely cute, pretty tall and really fit. And she’s a trainer, so

she’s really good putting people at ease. I could feel that right away when we started talking. Carolyn: I can see why we were set up. He’s a terrific athlete, and it seemed like we were in the same place in our lives; we’re both really happy. He has this great job, a great social life. He went through a divorce three years ago, and it was about three years ago that my fiance and I broke up, so I could relate to him trying to find himself again. He didn’t put any walls up. We talked for a while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at

things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on pa-

“Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious.”

your 3 deserted island items

What’s your type?

dating history as a tv show

Go ahead, brag a little

Van

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Caroline

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

6 Style April 27, 2009

➥ Whats next for Van and Carolyn? Van texted Carolyn to meet up one night, but he didn’t get a response. She says she got the next too late, and “it sort of fizzled.” Now she’s seeing someone.


f Attraction Van Naguyen, 37, software developer and Carolyn Evans, 33, fitness professional

per, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world fitness champion, and I could tell she works out. I’m thinking, I think she could take me. It was funny. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about

it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One

guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. \body. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. ❤


DateLab

TheRulesofAttraction Van Naguyen, 37, software developer and Carolyn Evans, 33, fitness professional 7:30 P.M., BLACKSALT, PALISADES Carolyn: Before the date, I’d been asking my clients and students if I should wear this neat, open-back dress that I have, or jeans and a nice shirt. One client said, “Definitely wear the dress.” I got to the restaurant maybe 10 minutes early, sat down and ordered a glass of wine. Then Van came in. He has a friendly face; he’s really clean-cut, well-dressed and fit-looking. But even though he’s tall and strong, he doesn’t look like a big guy. I’m bigger than most girls, so I tend to like guys that have that powerful physical presence. Van: She’s definitely cute, pretty tall and really fit. And she’s a trainer, so she’s really good putting people at ease. I could feel that right away when we started talking.

Carolyn: I can see why we were set up. He’s a terrific athlete, and it seemed like we were in the same place in our lives; we’re both really happy. He has this great job, a great social life. He went through a divorce three years ago, and it was about three years ago that my fiance and I broke up, so I could relate to him trying to find himself again. He didn’t put any walls up. We talked for a while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say


your 3 deserted island items

What’s your type?

dating history as a tv show

Go ahead, brag a little

Van

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Caroline

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world fitness champion, and I could tell she works out. I’m thinking, I think she could take me. It was funny. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an

easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. .” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. .” This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. ❤

“Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious.”

➥ Whats next for Van and Carolyn? Van texted Carolyn to meet up one night, but he didn’t get a response. She says she got the next too late, and “it sort of fizzled.” Now she’s seeing someone.


Date Lab

#326

van Naguyen, 37, software developer and Carolyn Evans, 33, fitness professional 7:30 P.M., BLACKSALT, PALISADES Carolyn: Before the date, I’d been asking my clients and students if I should wear this neat, open-back dress that I have, or jeans and a nice shirt. One client said, “Definitely wear the dress.” I got to the restaurant maybe 10 minutes early, sat down and ordered a glass of wine. Then Van came in. He has a friendly face; he’s really clean-cut, well-dressed and fit-looking. But even though he’s tall and strong, he doesn’t look like a big guy. I’m bigger than most girls, so I tend to like guys that have that powerful physical presence. Van: She’s definitely cute, pretty tall and really fit. And she’s a trainer, so she’s really good putting people at ease. I could feel that right away when we started talking.

Carolyn: I can see why we were set up. He’s a terrific athlete, and it seemed like we were in the same place in our lives; we’re both really happy. He has this great job, a great social life. He went through a divorce three years ago, and it was about three years ago that my fiance and I broke up, so I could relate to him trying to find himself again. He didn’t put any walls up. We talked for a while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything

at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world

your 3 deserted island items

What’s your type?

dating history as a tv show

Go ahead, brag a little

Van

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Caroline

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

6 Style April 27, 2009


fitness champion, and I could tell she works out. I’m thinking, I think she could take me. It was funny. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody.

“Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious.” \body. and people near us kept looking

at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. \body. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody.

\body. and people near us kept looking

at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. body. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This serts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. Lorem ipsum at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. ❤

➥ Whats next for Van and Carolyn?? Van texted Carolyn to meet up one night, but he didn’t get a response. She says she got the next too late, and “it sort of fizzled.” Now she’s seeing someone.


Date Lab

#326

The

Rules A

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Van Naguyen, 37, software developer and Carolyn Evans, 33, fitness professional

7:30 P.M., BLACKSALT, PALISADES Carolyn: Before the date, I’d been asking my clients and students if I should wear this neat, open-back dress that I have, or jeans and a nice shirt. One client said, “Definitely wear the dress.” I got to the restaurant maybe 10 minutes early, sat down and ordered a glass of wine. Then Van came in. He has a friendly face; he’s really clean-cut, well-dressed and fit-looking. But even though he’s tall and strong, he doesn’t look like a big guy. I’m bigger than most girls, so I tend to like guys that have that powerful physical presence. Van: She’s definitely cute, pretty tall and really fit. And she’s a trainer, so she’s really good putting people at ease. I could feel that right away when we started talking. Carolyn: I can see why we were set up. He’s a terrific athlete, and it seemed like we were in the same place in our

lives; we’re both really happy. He has this great job, a great social life. He went through a divorce three years ago, and it was about three years ago that my fiance and I broke up, so I could relate to him trying to find himself again. He didn’t put any walls up. We talked for a while before we ordered anything. Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world while before we ordered anything.

Van: We had a lot in common. Her outlook is “no excuses.” She’s in control of her destiny, and that’s how I look at things. I felt that there was chemistry. Carolyn: Everything was great on paper, but I didn’t feel that attraction. And I don’t think it’s there for him, either. Normally when I wear that dress, men compliment me. He didn’t say anything at all flirtatious. Van: I’m kind of oblivious to things like that. And we were sitting in a

your 3 deserted island items

What’s your type?

dating history as a tv show

Go ahead, brag a little

Van

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Caroline

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

Peros et autet, quam secte doluptat et, velisi tatem quisi. Ciduisi. Tatue eras modiam inim Ilit.

6 Style April 27, 2009


booth. But later we went into the tasting room to take pictures. She’s a world fitness champion, and I could tell she works out. I’m thinking, I think she could take me. It was funny. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy

came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. \body. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.” One guy came over and tried I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. \body. and people near us kept looking at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. One guy came over and tried a forkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. Carolyn: We ordered three desserts, and people neaVan was really cool [about it]. I thought: This is an easygoing guy w ipsum at them. Van and I both said, “You can try some.”: This is an easygoforkful. Van was really cool [about it]. I thought: I thought: This is an easygoing guy who can talk to anybody. ❤



2 PAGE SPREADS For The Washington Post Magazine DINING


by TOM SIETSEMA

{

The Good, the Bad and the Garish

➥ menu items ★★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum

An Asian newcomer along the Potomac offers few charms beyond the view

I

eat more bad food in the course of a year than you do, and I’ve got the notes to prove it. Among the hundreds of restaurant meals I sample every year, only a handful are world-class. Some are near-joy. The majority are fair-to-good, just like the films I watch or the music I hear. Then there’s the category of restaurants that are so brazenly bad, I tend not to tell you about them unless they’re highly publicized or located somewhere significant, why waste your time and this space? After my initial visit to Grace’s Mandarin, which has two siblings in Bowie, I was tempted to strike the Asian fusion restaurant off my to-do list. From start to finish — from a misplaced reservation and a crowded foyer to $16 for ordinary fried rice in a setting that a friend dubbed “fake elegant” — the evening bordered on disaster. Two things encouraged me to make another reservation, to take another taste. Grace’s Mandarin occupies real estate at a significant destination: the National Harbor complex along the water in Prince George’s County. Definitely a noteworthy Zip code. Further, and despite my training, I’m an unabashed optimist. Maybe I hit the place on a bad night? Everyone makes mistakes, after all. But not everyone makes them as often, or as glaringly, as Grace’s Mandarin, I discovered during subsequent visits. “I’m helping out a waiter here tonight,” we’re greeted by a good Samaritan (a.k.a. another server) in a black tunic. “Drinks?” he asks. It takes a while for him to return, which gives us an opportunity to absorb the scenery in the secondfloor dining room, whose tables frame a delicious view of the Potomac River and beyond. Try to get a seat facing a window so you won’t have to contemplate the restaurant’s jumbled interior. Grace’s Mandarin appears to be the work of several decorators who couldn’t agree on a vision but nevertheless forged ahead with their separate notions. There are gold drapes and gold pillars, giant urns here and bird cages there, plus four TVs smack in the middle of a mural at the bar to the side of the main dining room, which in turn is illuminated by enough different sconces and chandeliers to stock a lighting store.

26 Style April 27, 2009

➥ menu items ★★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum

Faccum dolor senis dionsequi tat lum vulpute dolorper.

➥ menu items ★★★★

★ Grace’s Mandarin

The ground floor includes a sushi bar to the right of 188 Waterfront St., the host stand and a long National Harbor table to the left of it, plus a 301-839-3788 33-foot-high Buddha that www.gracesrestaurants.com is visually cut off at the waist by a staircase connecting the floors. A friend whispers his three-word review: “Asian Cheesecake Factory.” That description applies to the food as well as the setting. I play it safe the first dinner and stick with simple stuff. If you’ve ever wondered how anyone could screw up a chicken satay, let my appetizer at Grace’s Mandarin serve as a recipe: The nuggets of chicken taste only of the grill, except when I dunk them in the accompanying peanut sauce (which makes them taste like dessert). Slippery pork dumplings are drowned in a sweet slick of oil, and an $18 shrimp roll named for the restaurant is drenched in what resembles Russian dressing. Further investigation reveals further slapdash food. “Curry” chicken is so devoid of flavor it might as well be tofu, and it comes with tiny crepes that taste of underbaked dough. Two things encouraged me to make another reservation, to take another taste. Grace’s Mandarin occupies real estate at a significant destination: the National Harbor complex along the water in Prince George’s County. Definitely a note-

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum

➥ menu items ★★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum

➥ menu items ★★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum

{

Dining

Ratings Guide: ★ Satisfactory ★ ★ Good ★ ★ ★ Excellent ★ ★ ★ ★ Superlative


worthy Zip code. Further, and despite my training, I’m an unabashed optimist. Maybe I hit the place on a bad night? Everyone makes mistakes, after all. But not everyone makes them as often, or as glaringly, as Grace’s Mandarin, I discovered during subsequent visits. But not everyone makes them as often, or as glaringly, as Grace’s Mandarin, I discovered during subsequent visits. “I’m helping out a waiter here tonight,” we’re greeted by a good Samaritan (a.k.a. another server) in a black tunic. “Drinks?” he asks. It takes a while for him to return, which gives us an opportunity to absorb the scenery in the second-floor dining room, whose tables frame a delicious view of the Potomac River and beyond. n

Sietsema’s Picks Restaurant Name ★ Na feummodolore magna alissequamet nonsenisi ercidunt ad etuerostrud estrud tem in hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.

Restaurant Name ★ ★ Na feummodolore magna alissequamet nonsenisi ercidunt ad etuerostrud estrud tem in hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.

Restaurant Name ★ ★ Na feummodolore magna alissequamet nonsenisi ercidunt ad etuerostrud estrud tem in hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.

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Restaurant Name ★ ★ ★ ★ Na feummodolore magna alissequamet nonsenisi ercidunt ad etuerostrud estrud tem in hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.

Restaurant Name ★ ★ ★ ★ Na feummodolore magna alissequamet nonsenisi ercidunt ad etuerostrud estrud tem in hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.


Dining

by TOM SIETSEMA

The Good, the Bad and the Garish

An Asian newcomer along the Potomac offers few charms beyond the view

z

➥ menu items ★★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud estrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci. ➥ menu items ★★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud estrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci. ➥ menu items ★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud estrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci. ➥ menu items ★★

Some great choices the pasta, etuerostrud estrud tem in nonsenisi ercidunt ad e hendignit venisl ulla feummodo eum iure exerci.

eat more bad food in the course of a year than you do, and I’ve got the notes to prove it. Among the hundreds of restaurant meals I sample every year, only a handful are world-class. Some are near-joy. The majority are fair-to-good, just like the films I watch or the music I hear. Then there’s the category of restaurants that are so brazenly bad, I tend not to tell you about them unless they’re highly publicized or located somewhere significant, why waste your time and this space? After my initial visit to Grace’s Mandarin, which has two siblings in Bowie, I was tempted to strike the Asian fusion restaurant off my to-do list. From start to finish — from a misplaced reservation and a crowded foyer to $16 for ordinary fried rice in a setting that a friend dubbed “fake elegant” — the evening bordered on disaster. Two things encouraged me to make another reservation, to take another taste. Grace’s Mandarin occupies real estate at a significant destination: the National Harbor complex along the water in Prince George’s County. Definitely a noteworthy Zip code. Further, and despite my training, I’m an unabashed optimist. Maybe I hit the place on a bad night? Everyone makes mistakes, after all. But not everyone makes them as often, or as glaringly, as Grace’s Mandarin, I discovered during subsequent visits. “I’m helping out a waiter here tonight,” we’re greeted by a good Samaritan (a.k.a. another server) in a black tunic. “Drinks?” he asks. It takes a while for him to return, which gives us an opportunity to absorb the scenery in the secondfloor dining room, whose tables frame a delicious view of the Potomac River and beyond. Try to get a seat facing a window so you won’t have to contemplate the restaurant’s jumbled interior. Grace’s Mandarin appears to be the work of several decorators who couldn’t agree on a vision but nevertheless forged ahead with their separate notions. There are gold drapes and gold pillars, giant urns here and bird cages there, plus four TVs smack in the middle of a mural at the bar to the side of the main dining room, which in turn is illuminated by enough different sconces and chandeliers to stock a lighting store.

26 Style April 27, 2009

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★ Grace’s Mandarin

The ground floor includes a sushi bar to the right of 188 Waterfront St., the host stand and a long National Harbor table to the left of it, plus a 301-839-3788 33-foot-high Buddha that www.gracesrestaurants.com is visually cut off at the waist by a staircase connecting the floors. A friend whispers his three-word review: “Asian Cheesecake Factory.” That description applies to the food as well as the setting. I play it safe the first dinner and stick with simple stuff. If you’ve ever wondered how anyone could screw up a chicken satay, let my appetizer at Grace’s Mandarin serve as a recipe: The nuggets of chicken taste only of the grill, except when I dunk them in the accompanying peanut sauce (which makes them taste like dessert). Slippery pork dumplings are drowned in a sweet slick of oil, and an $18 shrimp roll named for the restaurant is drenched in what resembles Russian dressing. Further investigation reveals further slapdash food. “Curry” chicken is so devoid of flavor

Ratings Guide: ★ Satisfactory ★ ★ Good ★ ★ ★ Excellent ★ ★ ★ ★ Superlative


it might as well be tofu, and it comes with tiny crepes that taste of underbaked dough. Two things encouraged me to make another reservation, to take another taste. Grace’s Mandarin occupies real estate at a significant destination: the National Harbor complex along the water in Prince George’s County. Definitely a noteworthy Zip code. Further, and despite my training, I’m an unabashed optimist. Maybe I hit the place on a bad night? Everyone makes mistakes, after all. But not everyone makes them as often, or as glaringly, as Grace’s Mandarin, I discovered during subsequent visits. “I’m helping out a waiter here tonight,” we’re greeted by a good Samaritan (a.k.a. another server) in a black tunic. “Drinks?” he asks. It takes a while for him to return, which gives us an opportunity to absorb the scenery in the second-floor dining room, whose tables frame a delicious view of the Potomac River and beyond. n

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