Nichebox: D. Pace

NICHEBOX

INTERVIEW WITH DINO PACE, CEO NICHEBOX

EXPORT MAGAZINE: When was your company started? DINO PACE: In 2018, from an entrepreneurial idea of mine and of Yulia Coulon, our Marketing Director, with the participation of some partner friends - and a private Swiss equity firm - who, by financing this project, allowed us to make acquisitions and build up an organization that can, year after year, operate professionally.

EM: One of the sectors you addressed is that of artistic perfumery, why? DP: We made some considerations on this section of the market. There is a great deal of creativity and often some brands lack the capital, or the structure or the managerial knowledge: these properties, if put alongside creativity, can mean that a specific brand is successful on the market. Even brands of larger dimensions can need a time around and strengthen their reason d’être, evolving while respecting tradition.

a Precise mission: To Be a cenTre of eXceLLence for The Brands of arTisTic PerfumerY, sKincare and BodYcare

From the very beginning our strategy has been to make up a portfolio with complementary brands, each with their own visibility and without overlaying one another. It is important that each brand is interesting and that it can be worked reasoning with a logic of medium to long term. We do not consider ourselves ‘private equitiers’, we do not operate like traditional financial investors that aim to obtain results in the short term, we are aware that our brands can stay “on the back stove” for several years and come out when the market conditions allow. For example, as well as perfumes, we are exploring the world of luxury skincare and body care.

EM: How is the company structured? DP: Nichebox has a direct presence in various territories, to operate locally on various markets; in the UK, where there is our head office, in France, Italy, Russia, the Middle East and the USA, with the perspective of opening in the Far East as well.

EM: You came into being already with an international character…. DP: Absolutely yes. It is a pure coincidence that we are Italian entrepreneurs and that the holding company is Italian. Operations are carried out on several fronts, it

starts from London and continues in Paris, Milan and Miami. Italy, which we consider an important market, represents 8% of our turnover, showing how the global turnover is well distributed over the geographical areas.

EM: What are the advantages? DP: A strong multinational and multicultural character represents a very great strength. Our collaborators belong to a wide variety of nationalities, on the various continents.

EM: Tell us about your brands, starting from Clive Christian. DP: The story of Clive Christian is fascinating, of how we can, respecting the identity of the brand, with a strong imprinting of history and tradition, give a contemporary and fresh touch. In one year - in the period of the forced idleness for the world – we completed a relaunch strategy by acting on some weak points at the financial and distribution level. Now the brand is travelling with doubledigit growth, and the sell-out is excellent. Last year we grew by 35-38% on the main markets; this year by 15%. These are record results and I mention the United States as an example of a performance well beyond expectations, even though we decided to end some commercial relations. We also started to operate with some independent stores, which represent the real culture of artistic perfumery and can influence the market. The brand is growing considerably in the Middle East, in Russia, despite the current situation; Asia and Latin America are launching positive signals towards artistic perfumery and we will certainly benefit from this in the near future. For example we have strong requests for the brand from China. In Europe, we have decided to work more in depth on the right positioning and we hope that this strategy will soon prove us right. We are moving on new projects in other categories of goods: the brand has granted a licence to a third company for the design and production of bespoke furniture. This new partner is investing enormously in the United States, where it already has a showroom of more than 1000 square metres in Chicago and will open one in September in Los Angeles with the perspective of opening a third one in New York by the end of the year and another two in Miami and Dallas in 2023. There will then be a subsequent opening in the Middle East. In their showrooms our perfumes will be showcased and sold to high-net-worth individuals who are searching for something unique to wear on their skin.

EM: 2022 is an important year for Clive Christian… DP: It is the year in which it celebrates the 150th anniversary of the Crown Perfumery Company, established in 1872 by Sir Walter Thompson. It also coincides with the new phase of development of our company; to underline the importance of this date, we are organizing a special and very important event in early November in London, with all our partners. We will have extraordinary experiences together, set in the historical period. Naturally with the participation of our brand ambassador Victoria Christian, and of Clive Christian himself.

EM: Can you remind our readers of how ‘The Crown Collection’ started… DP: Clive Christian founded his company in 1999, taking over ‘The Crown Perfumery’. The original creator of the brand was Walter Thomson who, in 1872, was the personal perfumer of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert; Thomson, a corset manufacturer, created smelling salts as women, because their corsets were too tight often fainted. From salts scented with lavender, Thomson started to create fragrances at artisan level, commissioned for the bride and groom, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. This was how “1872” started, the main ingredient of which was orange blossom. When Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria, to thank Walter Thompson for his services, offered him the perpetual right to reproduce the effigies of the crown on the Perfumes he created. This is how the Crown Perfumery came into being with the typical crown cap. The Crown Perfumery expanded in both hemispheres; famous characters such as Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin were regular clients of the brand. This Collection is linked with a fantastic archive, with many product names, formulas and ideas we can still draw on. A priceless capital.

EM: Liquides Imaginaires is another very particular brand… DP: This fascinating brand has accompanied us since the beginning of our activity. The fragrances have a very strong personality. Philippe Di Méo is making a journey of creativity that goes from identifying the story, which is not an olfactory story but a real narrative which can be sparked off by his imagination or by personal experiences in Philippe’s own life. The fragrance is a medium which can unlock the doors of an imaginary, evocative and experiential world. Symbolism and spirituality are the guiding thread that is found in cultures all over the world and in the use of certain ingredients. This lets the brand be distinguished by features that are evocative on all markets, as it speaks a universal language, which each person can interpret in their own way. The elements that form the mix of this brand means that it cannot be duplicated. Its success is acclaimed from East to West and the main market, although it is growing everywhere, is Russia. The fragrances vary from some more persistent ones and others that are lighter; in Japan they prefer the fragrance called “Phantasma”. It is a real pleasure to work and discuss with Philippe who, as well as being the Creative Director and founder of the brand, is also our partner.

EM: What have you added to your portfolio? DP: We wanted to include a brand of Italian tradition in our portfolio. We turned to a brand which about 30 years ago had a very strong identity on the Italian market: Hanorah. We benefited from the experience of Hanorah in terms of product and R & D, to launch a new concept, which could be appetizing at international level. This has led to ORA, which is a spin-off of Hanorah. The innovation consists of two elements: there are no prepacked products to buy

but, mixing a booster with a cream and an essence for your skin type, you can customise your skin care regime directly on the palm of your hand, having up to 7 different products; and then you can adapt your skin care regime to the changing needs of your skin, simply choosing a different booster. Less waste, no fuss, only what you need! We have signed a partnership for the Middle East with Al Tayer for the launch of the brand in the whole region, at its own points of sale and in various department stores. It is a real partnership where both our structures are committed to promoting the sell-out of this new concept of making cosmetics to a maximum.

EM: Last, but not least, Acque d’Italia… DP: Here too we are dealing with an existing brand which was distributed in the masstige channel. We have revolutionized it completely: a new logo – a blue seahorse – the label in relief, the experience during use. The packaging is made of recycled plastic. The inspiration comes from the Roman thermal baths, the names of the fragrances are in Latin. The products, very pleasant and moisturizing, come in 5 scents. The colour that characterizes the line, blue, recalls the purity and the freshness of the waters of the Mediterranean. It is inspired by a real Italianess and ensures pleasant sensations of well-being. As it is a medium-high level line of body care, in Italy it will not be sold in more than 200 doors, and it will also follow this type of distribution abroad.

CLIVE CHRISTIAN

The Clive Christian brand, acquired by Nichebox in 2019, is synonymous with timeless classics made without compromise. Composed of exquisite ingredients, with intense and complex formulations and the ultimate craftsmanship. Blending royal British history with visionary flair to stand outside time. For highly expressive, uniquely personal perfumes of pure perfume pleasure: the ultimate form of self-expression. They are unique in having the reproduction of the British crown as their cap, a privilege received from thee heirs of Queen ACQUE DI ITALIA Victoria and Prince Albert, for whom the This is a new Italian body brand inspired original founder created fragrances. by the bathing ritual in Ancient Rome. It brings together a celebration of tradition, elegance and well-being, and unlocks a new world that enchants the senses in an aromatic cloud. Acque di Italia nurtures both the body and mind through a range of products and fragrances. The ancient Romans escaped to the tranquillity of thermal baths, discovering the power of self-care, pampering and inner peace to create moments of calm. Acque di Italia has as its mission the recreation of the same feelings inspired by moments of serenity. Nichebox acquired this brand in 2020.

LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES

The French brand of Liquides Imaginaires, acquired by Nichebox in 2018, creates fragrances with great symbolic power. These unique, challenging and complex fragrances go beyond perfume. They are composed, like poems, to evoke various mental states, desires and feelings in the wearer, unlocking their imagination, awakening heir spirit, and taking hem to a realm beyond the ordinary. They are volatile bodies that take the wearer beyond the material world. Liquides Imaginaires transform imagination into liquid matter.

Claudia Stagno

ORA

Ora is the bespoke Italian skincare range that offers solutions for all skin types and concerns. This totally personalized skincare system is designed to meet all the needs of the skin, each and every day. The products are completely clean and kind and are made in Italy without parabens, allergens, silicones, alcohol or mineral oils, but powerful active ingredients are used that deliver real results. Ora was acquired by Nichebox in 2020.