Jewellery Focus February 2012 by Designed by Arthouse Publishing

February 2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

THE NEW

SOHO COLLECTION

chamilia.com

Spring Fair show issue: a full exhibitor list and floor plan to help you plan your visit The latest in anodised aluminium jewellery designs, functioning as wearable works of art

Retail management systems to help organise and streamline your business operations

CONTENTS

Jewellery FOCUS

February 2012 FEATURES Unknown beryls: splinters of the rainbow

31 24 24

Andreas Mitchell distills gem theory and commercial practice into practical information for buying and selling heliodor and morganite

Spring Fair 2012 show guide

Plan your visit to the Jewellery Show at the NEC using this handy floor plan and exhibitor list

It’s a celebration!

Lindsey Straughton of the British Jewellers’ Association, which has just entered its 125th year, highlights a selection of Spring Fair Design Quarter exhibitors

All systems go

Up-to-date retail management systems can be the key to streamlining and organising business operations, as Naida Ally discovers

The bold and the beautiful

The latest anodised aluminium jewellery designs available to stock as bright and colourful, wearable works of art

Focus on fashion jewellery

Naida Ally examines some of the most recent jewellery collections that have been designed to help customers keep up with fashion trends, without breaking the bank

REGULARS Editor’s letter

Roundup 10 The latest news from the industry

Janet Fitch

With the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the London Olympics on the horizon, 2012 is set to be a key year for the vintage trend, predicts Janet

Keith Fisher

Trends in timepieces

Michael Hoare

A bumper selection of new products and services available from the industry, many of which will be exhibited at this year’s Spring Fair Having approached the recentlyreleased Portas Review as a slight sceptic, Michael explains why he was pleasantly surprised by what he read

Designer of the month

This month Keith focuses his attention on a ladies’ watch line that has been turning heads thanks to its innovative designs, affordable pricing, and ingenious brand name

Ones to watch

Taking stock

Louise Hoffman speaks with Kristina Charrington, to find out about the roots of her career; her work ethic; and her favourite aspects of jewellery design

74 68

Selling 72

Brad Huisken of IAS Training introduces a four-phase concept, which acts as the foundation on which to build an understanding of specific sales techniques

How do they do that?

Syreeta Tranfield

Industry data

Voice on the highstreet

In part two of their explanation of the processes involved in fashion jewellery testing, Ben Halmshaw and Tatiana Abbey discuss the tests for colour fastness and fibre composition

Speaking to Eddie Prentice of Adaptive, Syreeta finds out more about the function of websites as ‘shop windows’, which are often the first port of call for consumers

Shaun Bell of Joshua James Jewellery, Hessle, East Yorkshire

EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter T

he February issue of Jewellery Focus is always special for two reasons: firstly, it is the Spring Fair show issue, providing you with a floor plan, exhibitor list and details on highlights of the event, including a selection of products and services set to be exhibited, to help you plan your visit to the NEC this month; and secondly, it is Jewellery Focus’s anniversary! Yes – this year we celebrate six years of delivering news, trends, advice and stock ideas to jewellery retailers and designers across the UK. Since our last anniversary, we have as always sought to evolve and improve upon our offering for you, our loyal readers. I think the main developments for the past year have got to be our achievement of Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) Supporter status; our brand new Jewellery Focus logo and redesigned front cover; and the launch of our new website, which is updated daily with news and the latest metal prices, as well as a digital edition of the most recent magazine (www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk). And the developments continue – in January we began our Twitter feed (follow us @Jewellery_Focus for the latest industry news updates!), and our circulation figure has increased to an impressive 8,050 copies as of this month! The industry has seen huge change too, with the meteoric rise of the Shamballa bracelet; the emergence of new, inspired and motivated designers; continued efforts in the fair trading arena; advancements in technology that have resulted in new routes to market and improved ways of marketing products; and a host of awards won by businesses, industry representatives and designers alike. (And yes – I am deliberately ignoring the negative aspects of the past 12 months in this particular letter.) As ever, I welcome feedback, so please do drop me a line (louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk) if you have any thoughts about the magazine or the industry that you would like to pass on. Your letter may even be printed in the magazine as a result. In the meantime, I wish you all a successful month ahead, and an enjoyable and productive visit to the Jewellery Show at Spring Fair.

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Naida Ally

naida@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Design/Production Editor Tracy Jarvis tracy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Assistant Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Deputy Group Advertisement Manager Julie-Ann Kwok julie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Senior Sales Executive Duncan Robinson duncan@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers: Andreas Mitchell, Ben Halmshaw, Brad Huisken, Janet Fitch, Keith Fisher, Lindsey Straughton, Michael Hoare, Syreeta Tranfield, Tatiana Abbey In support of:

Jewellery Focus

This month’s cover features CHAMILIA

“Founded in New York City in 2002, Chamilia was launched on the premise of putting jewellery design into the hands of the consumer. Now with over two years of trading under its belt in the UK and Europe, Chamilia continues to grow through the retail partnerships it has nurtured,” says the company. With four new range launches every year, Chamilia is continually innovating in the category, with new ranges that include 14 carat gold, .925 sterling silver, Swarovski Elements and Italian Murano glass. The company also has an exclusive Disney Collection. This month’s Jewellery Focus cover features the new SoHo Collection. Information: 0844 811 2142 or chamiliauk@chamilia.com

ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by:

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

ROUNDUP

And briefly Argos achieves RJC certification

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Argos, the multichannel retailer, has achieved certification by meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. “Argos is delighted to become an officially certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, and we believe this reflects our commitment to the principles and guidelines set out by the RJC,” said Mark Steel, Argos’s trading manager for jewellery and watches.

Pandora to close 100 accounts

Pandora recently announced the closure of another 100 accounts in Australia and New Zealand. The decision was announced by Karin Adcock, president of Pandora Australia, who explained that Pandora was looking to continue to grow its brand and needed to change its distribution strategy. The accounts to be closed will be able to sell its products until 31 March, after which point Pandora “will be looking to open more fullybranded concept stores, which it intends to become franchise stores.” This follows a similar announcement almost a year ago, in which it said 100 accounts would be closed “in an attempt to have greater control over the retail experience of the customer buying their product.”

Wirral resident named ‘Jeweller of the Nile’

Pete Seeger marked his 60th birthday by raising money for cancer. The jeweller, who lives in Meols, originally pledged to raise £5,000 by taking part in a 200mile cycle along the Nile, but finished the journey as Clatterbridge Cancer Research’s fundraiser of the year, after having raised £14,800. Pete said that he received tremendous support from the local rugby community, as well as his boss, Haywood Milton, and work colleagues at the Milton’s Jewellers stores in Chester, Birkenhead and Liverpool, who all sponsored the cycle. “I got involved in working for Clatterbridge Cancer Research because my former wife was diagnosed with cancer. She was successfully treated but I stayed involved in raising money for research because so many people are touched by the disease.”

Dreyfuss Group appoints new manager Watch company the Dreyfuss Group recently announced the appointment of Philip Poole, who will take on the role of sales and marketing manager for the Dreyfuss & Co brand. Philip is a former Dreyfuss Group employee and has worked in the watch industry for over 20 years. Previous employers include the Seiko Corporation and the Swatch Group, where he held the position of brand director, initially for the Tissot brand and latterly for the company’s eponymous Swatch brand. Dreyfuss Group UK sales director Thomas Tope commented: “We are delighted to welcome Philip back to the company. He has exceptional experience in sales strategy development and implementation and is well accustomed to managing agency brands so will be a perfect fit for this newly created role.”

Industry reacts to Portas Review

Following the publication of the Portas Review at the end of last year, jewellery industry insiders have displayed mixed reactions, paving the way for an on-going and lengthy debate. The report, which concerned the future of high street retail, addressed a number of issues, including town planning; car parking; high street management and business improvement districts; and business rates help for new retail businesses. The British Retail Consortium (BRC) director general Stephen Robertson said: “The report sets out some practical ways to address problems faced by the UK’s high streets, many of which go back much further than the economic difficulties of the last few years. We welcome the central thrust of Mary Portas’s recommendations for the high street – that they respond to changing customer demands – but we’re concerned a couple of proposals are at odds with this and have the potential to make development more difficult.” Barry Knight, head of retail at chartered accountant Grant Thornton UK, commented: “The creation of town teams and business improvement districts is all well and good, but the question is, who is going to pay for them?” adding: “The increasing number of large supermarkets and their increased push into non-food, combined with internet shopping, are major drivers in the decline of the high street. Mary Portas offers no discussion around how or if anything can be done about the impact of these trends. To ensure that high streets do not fall into terminal decline, we need to ensure that no properties are empty, regardless of the financial cost and the need to change usage legislation.” “Retailers are being squeezed by increased rates and reduced traffic, and something needs to be done to help our high streets,” said Rupert Eastell, head of retail at chartered accountant Baker Tilly. “Regardless of whether you love her or hate her, Mary Portas’s report should stimulate debate about the future of the British high street, and if it leads to just one high street making changes for the better, it will be a success. Portas makes sensible and deliverable recommendations in her report, but change is not down to her. If anything, it is clear that councils, community partnerships, local chambers of commerce and businesses must work together, take an honest look at their local high street, and make the tough decisions about the changes necessary for positive momentum.” Dr Neil Bentley, CBI deputy director general, added: “Retail represents about 10 per cent of our economy, and the high street is a vital part of this. The Portas Review makes some sensible suggestions about how we can inject life back into town centres, including increased use of business improvement districts and relaxing planning restrictions on the high street – in particular on change of use. More importantly, she recognises the growing burden business rates are placing on companies right across the country at a critical time.” For further discussion on the Portas Review, turn to page 63, and if you have a view to share on the subject, please email the editor at louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

New logo to commemorate 125 years for the BJA

To mark the British Jewellers’ Association’s (BJA) 125th anniversary in 2012, a commemorative logo has been produced, designed to “reflect both the contemporary approach of the BJA’s lead in key industry issues and its rich heritage.” The logo, which will feature in all BJA publicity materials, demonstrates “a subtle yet distinctive blend of old and new.” Lindsey Straughton, PR and marketing manager of the BJA, said: “We are all delighted that the new logo encapsulates the true essence of the BJA. The new design lends itself to many formats and will feature prominently during 2012 in our stationery, promotional work, website and exhibitions.” In addition to the new logo, the BJA will unveil a series of 125th anniversary celebrations for 2012 over the coming weeks. These will include a BJA member awards programme, the production of a commemorative handbook, a specially commissioned work in silver, and a nationwide launch of the BJA member forums.

Olympic hopeful supports Charms UK

Olympic hopeful for the GB synchronised swimming team, Anya Tarasuik, recently showed her support for Charms UK at the launch of its latest collection, Candy Bling. The British professional synchronised swimmer lit the blue touch paper to launch the new season collection. Charms UK will also be unveiling an Olympic-themed range of jewellery at this year’s Spring Fair, as part of the Candy Bling collection. The collection features the “latest must-have accessories from Charms UK,” and includes over 200 bracelets, necklaces and earrings created with coloured crystal, pearl and sterling silver.

ROUNDUP

Celebrity endorsement

Annoushka founders awarded MBEs

Husband and wife team John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas have both been awarded MBEs for their contribution to the British jewellery industry. Jewellery designer Annoushka Ducas and her husband, luxury entrepreneur John Ayton, founded Annoushka in 2009, having previously co-founded Links of London, which was then sold to Follie Follie in 2006. John also invested in the Bremont Watch Company, where he later became chairman. He is also director of Walpole, an organisation aimed at serving and promoting British luxury brands, and founder of Walpole Brands of Tomorrow, which mentors and supports the best of emerging British talent in the luxury sector. Both John and Annoushka were also seed investors in Boticca.com, which offers a marketplace to young and upcoming jewellery and accessories designers. In addition, Annoushka oversees an annual design project with students at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, and has recently established her ‘Art at Annoushka’ initiative, which sees her collaborate with “creative forces at the forefront of the contemporary art scene.” Speaking of the honour, Annoushka Ducas said: “It’s marvellous to be awarded an MBE simultaneously with John in recognition of our achievements, it has been a fantastic journey that feels like it has only just begun!”

The Goldsmith’s Company Assay Office celebrates five years in Hatton Garden

The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office recently celebrated the fifth anniversary of its Greville Street sub-office in the heart of Hatton Garden. Champagne, Assay Office chocolate coins and specially-baked gold, glittery commemorative cupcakes in leopard print cases were served to those who joined the celebrations. The deputy warden, who visited on the day, said: “I would like to thank all of our customers for supporting us over the last five years, especially those who came to help us celebrate on this special occasion. It is hard to believe that we have been in Hatton Garden for five years already. From the wonderful feedback we have received, it has been clear that opening this office is one of the best decisions the Goldsmiths’ Company has ever taken. Here’s to the next five years!”

Mastercut design competition

To celebrate the Royal Diamond Jubilee in 2012, Mastercut Diamond is launching its Jubilee Diamond Design competition at the Jewellery Show in Birmingham. The competition’s goal is to foster creative talent, with entrants encouraged to create an innovative piece of diamond jewellery, which will contain 20 Mastercut diamonds valued at over £20,000. The competition will be judged by Jean-Paul Tolkowsky of Mastercut Diamond, and the winning design will be manufactured by Mastercut Diamond. The piece will then be exhibited during London Jewellery Week, at the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Business Conference in June, the CMJ Summer Trade event in August and the IJL Show in London in September, as well as touring the country to be exhibited at selected Mastercut Diamond stockists. Submitted entries must be original designs, which have not previously been put on display or commercialised. Diamonds must be an indispensable part of the jewellery design, and the competition is open to professional and non-professional designers, students, graduates, teachers, jewellers and goldsmiths based in the UK. For more information about the competition, visit www.masterjewellers.co.uk Entries can be submitted via email to mastercut@masterjewellers.co.uk, and the competition closes on 30 March.

Mastercut Diamond

Mastercut Diamond Vintage Collection ring

Lauren Pope, Glam Rock Watches Lauren Pope of The Only Way Is Essex has appeared at an exclusive event at concept fashion jewellery store ‘boutique.Goldsmiths’ in Westfield Stratford City for watch brand Glam Rock Watches. Having recently launched in the UK, the brand has reported a “huge stateside following,” including Britney Spears, Kim Kardashian, Fergie and 50 Cent. The event celebrated the new South Beach collection from the brand, which features a range of interchangeable luxury fashion watches with ‘just click’ technology. Lauren wore the Limited Edition SOBE GR32199D style from the collection, available from Goldsmiths.

ROUNDUP

Diamond market

Uncertainties continued in the rough diamond market at the beginning of December, whereas trading in polished diamonds was stable, with reports per one carat up 1.9 per cent to 98.26 in the RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI). In the wake of Global Witness leaving the Kimberley Process (KP), ZimbabweanChinese firm Anjin is reported to have sold an estimated 500,000 carats of KP approved Marange rough diamonds. Mid-December saw diamond markets reasonably quiet, with retailers expecting a last minute boost in Christmas sales. Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery set record prices at Christie’s, with the collection selling for $137 million (£88 million) including a 33.19 carat, D, potentially flawless rectangular diamond sold for $8.8 million – $265,697 per carat (£5.7 million – £172,207). The United States’ October polished diamond imports were down five per cent to $1.8 billion (£1.1 billion); Israel’s November polished exports were down 19 per cent to $449 million (£291 million); and Botswana’s October diamond exports were reportedly down 23 per cent to $289 million (£187 million). The Diamond Trading Company (DTC) announced a reduction in the London diamond supply and selected 72 sightholders for 122 sights during 2012 to 2015; 66 sights in London, 21 in Botswana, 13 in Namibia, 10 in South Africa and two in Canada. Polished trading was quiet as Belgian and American dealers closed for the holiday. Russian miner ALROSA is reportedly planning $300 million (£194 million) of rough sales to Gokhran in 2012. The end of the month saw US company comScore report that online sales were up 15 per cent to $35 billion (£22.6 million) in November and December. Source: Rapaport TradeWire

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

Catherine Jones passes away, aged 95

Catherine Jones, founder of Catherine Jones Jewellery Limited in Cambridge, sadly passed away on the 21 December 2011. Born on the 16 October 1916 in India, Catherine had been involved in the jewellery industry for nearly 50 years, after starting her business in 1964. With the launch of its online store, Catherine Jones Jewellery achieved a worldwide customer base beyond Cambridge, extending to Australia, Hong Kong, Tokyo, the USA, Norway, Switzerland and France. Mathew Burkitt, Catherine’s grandson and finance director of the business, said: “We have learned that her life touched many thousands of people. She will be sorely missed, but her legacy continues through her creation, Catherine Jones Jewellery, and through the Catherine Jones Foundation, which builds schools in her native India.” Catherine’s funeral took place on Tuesday 3 January 2012, where her family were joined by friends and jewellery makers whom she had worked with over the years. Anne Plenderleith said: “The loss of such an amazing person is heartbreaking. She will be remembered always by everyone she came in contact with through her long life with love and many happy memories of her kindness and humour and incredible taste.”

Charles Green Live Project winners

Students on the BA Jewellery and Silversmithing Design for Industry course at the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University, recently took part in the Charles Green design competition. Now in its fourth year, the brief this time was to create a bespoke pendant incorporating a selected coloured cabochon cut stone. This year’s prize of £250 and a week’s work experience at Charles Green went to Faye Wilson, for her birdcage design. The design was chosen as the winning piece because of Faye’s “excellent use of CAD, a high degree of finishing and [because the design] fitted the brief perfectly.” Ilona White, Gayle Anderson and Natalie Baxter were awarded the second, third, and special commendation prizes respectively. The awards were presented at a festive reception at the School of Jewellery in Birmingham, where nearly £1,000 was raised for Acorns Children’s Hospice as the pieces were auctioned off. Tom Green commented: “This year’s pieces have been the strongest yet and every piece in its own way was a deserved winner.”

Popularity peak for pre-owned watches

Online retailer Watchfinder has reported that like-for-like sales of pre-owned watches have risen by 39 per cent following the recent WF&Co rebranding. The figures, which relate to sales in September, October and November, follow a year of internal investment which has seen the number of staff grow to over 40; the introduction of the WF&Co group; a re-designed website; and a magazine. Managing director Stuart Hennell explained: “To generate this volume of sales growth in what can only be described as challenging trading conditions is pleasing, but it’s in line with our expectations.” The growth has been, in part, attributed to the increasing popularity of pre-owned watches. As consumers think more about luxury spending, an item which is of similar quality to a new watch, costs less, and has the potential to appreciate in value has obvious appeal. Co-founder Matthew Bowling added: “We’re trying to change the way people think about pre-owned watches, and as buyers see how favourably our products compare to the brand new alternative, we expect the market to continue to grow.”

ROUNDUP

CMJ to award Best Jewellery Collection at the Jewellery Show 2012

And briefly Jochi Nyman passes away, aged 76

A much loved and respected figure in Hatton Garden has passed away at the age of 76. Jochi Nyman, a familiar face in the Garden, came to England in 1939, aged four, along with his twin sister Hanna, from Germany as one of the Kindertransport Children. His older brothers John and Herbert were already established in the UK jewellery trade, and Jochi followed them into the business at the age of 16 as a watchmaker’s apprentice. He went on to open up his own business, J Nyman Limited, selling out in the 1990s. A daily visitor to Hatton Garden, up until only a month before his death, he was known to many for his kind and generous nature and his readiness to give advice and encouragement to all.

UK and Ireland’s jewellery buying group, the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), has announced it will once again present the award for Best Jewellery Collection at the Jewellery Show 2012. The award will be judged by all CMJ member retailers who visit the show, with voting based on design quality, innovation, commercial appeal and price. The winner will receive a trophy to display for the duration of the show, as well as the chance to showcase the winning collection at a subsequent CMJ buying meeting. Commenting on the award, CMJ chief executive Willie Hamilton said: “This award looks at the overall package for a successful collection – not only original jewellery design and excellent craftsmanship, but also the commercial appeal and retail price point. At the CMJ, we support our buyers and retailers alike – with this award we are giving CMJ backing to the winning brand, while letting retailers know that the collection is strong across the board so that they can buy with confidence.”

HMRC launches new service

A new way of resolving disputes between small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) was launched on 9 January 2012. The Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) is a pilot for SMEs and uses independent HMRC facilitators to resolve disputes between HMRC and customers during a compliance check, but before a decision or assessment has been made. HMRC’s Jim Stevenson, assistant director, local compliance, said: “ADR will help SMEs resolve disputes without having to go to a tribunal – saving them both time and money.” ADR does not affect existing processes or review and appeal rights, and covers both VAT and direct taxes. For more information, visit www.hmrc.gov.uk/adr/intro-note.pdf

Tresor Paris bracelet designed for Kelly Rowland

Jewellery brand Tresor Paris was recently asked to design a bracelet for Kelly Rowland, following the success of its X Factor bracelets. The solo artist was seen wearing the Arc-en-ciel bracelet, which included a personalised silver ‘K’ charm, at the Mayfair One for One club. Tresor Paris will also be prevalent in her new music video for the single Here I Am, following the artist’s request to have her dancers wear the bracelets.

Weston Beamor announces awards shortlist

Three female students have been shortlisted to win the prestigious design competition staged annually by the Birmingham casting house Weston Beamor, in conjunction with the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University (BCU). The winner of the competition will be announced on Tuesday 7 February at 2.30pm on the Weston Beamor stand (Hall 17, Stand P44-Q45) at the Jewellery Show, Birmingham. The shortlisted three – Hannah Kimber, Sophie Newman and Sophie Symes – will join fellow students and university staff and directors of Weston Beamor, to discover who has won the first prize of £500 and the opportunity to have a week’s work experience within the firm. The second and third place students will receive £250 and £150 respectively.

Dear Editor, At a time like this, when retailers need support from their suppliers – who have relied upon us to be the face of their bran d on the high street – the support seems conspicuous by its absence. As a retailer jeweller we have comm itted to playing our part in building awareness and giving ethos to the brands, by givin g them exposure in prime window space and showing and telling using well trained and infor med staff, and in often expensive retai l space. We offer the clients the opportunity to touch and feel the product, and willingly offer advice and act as their after-sales service departme nt too. It is therefore galling to say the least, at a time when high street shopping as we know it is under threat, that some brands/d istributors of watches and jewellery are likely to bring about a more rapid demise to high street shopping as we know it by their hunger for numbers on a spreadsheet. Respect for our loyalty and the impo rtant part we have played as retailers would be appreciated, but to me they sadly appea r to sell their soul for the sake of addin g the exciting numbers that Amazon and/or TV shopp ing channels add to their yearly ‘stats ’. Little thought seems to be given to their brand integ rity, which appears to be undermin ed and eroded by aggressive marketing and promotion s by companies hell bent on brand collecting as a means of driving traffic to their sites. I can see a time – unless these suppl iers get a grip on their brands and the way they [deliver them] to market – when many jewellers like us will start to quest ion whether we are prepared to be the face of such bran ds. Yes, sometimes value for money does mean having the opportunity to consu lt with an informed, customer-friendly, train ed staff member, who can champion the brand and give an opportunity to the customer to touch and feel the product. But that exper ience has a cost to the retailer: time, investment and a fixed cost commitment to a brand. Brands should act responsibly in an industry that has backed them from their fledgling days as suppliers. Control your bran ds responsibly and support those who have supported you, otherwise potentially risk losing the trust of your retailers and the prime shop windows they have afforded you to showcase your brands. That space is valuable and I need a return on our capital investment. [When I] informed some suppliers that I was not happy and asked them what they were doing to police the manner in which their brand was being used, some appeared not have any control, while some, alas, chose to make excuses and bury their head in the sand. As a result, I simply de-li sted many of them. I am an open-minded retailer and invite suppliers to enter into this deba te. I will look forward to reading their comments for the interest of fellow readers throu gh this journal. Suppliers and distributors – there has never been a time when we need your support more.

Keith Peters Managing director of the Jewellers Guild Ltd

Dates for your diary... 299– 31 January 102012 Printor Eurexpo 16 Lyons, France

www.printor.fr

26 10 – 1327 28 February 2012

30 31 Chic The Ricoh Arena, Coventry 6

The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International 19 NEC, Birmingham 20 21 22

29 January – 1 February 2012 www.chicuk.com

12 5 – 9 February 13 201214

www.thejewelleryshow.com

Inhorgenta 4 New Munich3Trade Fair Centre Munich, Germany

www.inhorgenta.com

29 5 12

TRENDS

A year for nostalgia With the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the London Olympics on the horizon, 2012 is set to be a key year for the vintage trend, predicts Janet Fitch

ebruary is the time when we find out what the future of fashion looks like, with the world’s autumn/winter shows taking place this month. Early sightings of spring merchandise are already appearing in stores, with the sales finally trickling to an end. Gone are the greys and navy blues, and in come the brightest of brights – especially tangerine and all shades of orange. What’s interesting, though, is that the colour has been around for a few seasons, as have Breton stripes, sports influences and coloured skinny jeans. Maybe the fast turnover of trends is slowing down, as consumers avoid impulse spending and opt for longevity? The trend that doesn’t go away, and seems to grow season by season, is for all things vintage. And 2012 is a key year for this trend – last year’s Royal Wedding was a foretaste of what’s to come, with the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, followed by the Olympics, creating a tidal wave of nostalgia. The Victoria and Albert Museum kicks it all off this month with an exhibition of photographs of the Queen by Cecil Beaton. The exhibition is sponsored by Garrard, which has been associated with the Royal Family ever since its first royal commission in 1735. Garrard was appointed Crown Jeweller to Queen Victoria in 1843, and has since served six successive sovereigns. (Queen Elizabeth II by Cecil Beaton: A Diamond Jubilee Celebration, from the 8 February to the 22 April 2012. A travelling version of the exhibition starts in September in Dundee, moving on to Leeds, Norwich and Newcastle.)

‘I Know the Queen’ Vintage and recycling are creating a stir in the jewellery trade, resulting in a crop of collections that fuse actual vintage pieces, or recreate a vintage look, with a contemporary twist. The newly launched and aptly named ‘I Know the Queen’ label is English inspired, and each piece is hand-crafted from a mix of antique and new components, family heirlooms, trinkets and royal and historical treasures mixed with industrial and contemporary metalwork. (www.iknowthequeen.com)

Victoria and Albert Museum

Cecil Beaton, Queen Elizabeth II, 1968 © V&A Images

Cecil Beaton, Princess Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace, March 1945 © V&A Images

Cecil Beaton, Queen Elizabeth II in Coronation Robes, June 1953 © V&A Images

Cecil Beaton, Queen Elizabeth II with Prince Andrew, 1960 © V&A Images

TRENDS

Beaut Jewellery

Jewellery as worn by the Duchess of Cambridge has undoubted extra cachet, and Beaut Jewellery is justifiably proud of the fact that she wore the company’s delicate Ava earrings – from the Vintage Collection – at a formal dinner in St James’s Palace. Beaut’s jewellery is especially suited to bridal wear and can be seen at Gray’s Antique Mews, South Molton Lane, London. (www.beautjewellery.com) Jessica de Lotz graduated in 2008 in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martin’s, and went on to win a Coutts Young Jeweller of the Year award, and a Goldsmiths’ Precious Metal Bursary and Goldsmiths’ travel scholarship. Her enjoyment of childhood trips to car boot sales with her grandmother inspires her distinctive antique style, like bespoke wax seal crest and monogram jewellery, composed of clients’ key memories, family history and heritage. Her latest collection, Gladys-Joyce Bowden, is based on a cache of ephemera found from Gladys’s 21st birthday in 1931, including filigree keys, a chiming doorbell, and miniature wax seal good luck amulets. (www.jessicadelotz.co.uk)

Jessica de Lotz

Zara Taylor The passion for vintage style jewellery is particularly noticeable among the young, and Zara Taylor has a growing celebrity following for her jewellery, handmade in London using vintage jewellery, findings and stones from retro eras. Jessie J, Fearne Cotton, Taylor Swift, and Made in Chelsea girls Cheska Hull and Millie Mackintosh, as well as X Factor judge Kelly Rowland have all been spotted wearing her designs, including the best-selling ‘peace’ chain pendant. Other bestsellers include the My Dear Watson magnifying glass pendant and the Mr Bones ring, and other long pendants with a harmonica, or compass or globe. The jewellery has been selling online, but the collections, featuring hundreds of original designs, are now available wholesale through Stroom Fashion. (www.zarataylor.co.uk)

Watch this space

Seks

appeal

Keith Fisher focuses his attention on a ladies’ watch line that has been turning heads thanks to its innovative designs, affordable pricing, and ingenious brand name

Let me inter rupt this history lesson with my wholehearted congratulations to the company’s marketing people – the name ‘Seksy’ is a stroke of genius

odie is a fashion journalist who I have known for a very long time, and every time we meet up she gives me grief. “All you ever write about is men’s watches,” she says. “There’s a lot of demand now from the ladies!” “OK,” I reply, “tell me more.” “Seksy watches have become very popular. They are superbly crafted, so innovative in design and they look great on a night out,” she announces. “So there you are – your next column, Fish.” Your wish is my command Jodie! But first, the background; and I am grateful to fellow watch enthusiast Martyn for filling me in with good, solid detail. The Seksy brand is presented to us by Sekonda, which was established in 1966 as part of the Time Products Limited Company – a group that sourced from Moscow in the 1930s with the founding of the First State Watch Factory in the then communist Russia. Created under the orders of Stalin, the First State Watch Factory was the first Soviet attempt at manufacturing watch movements and watches. These watches were used by the Soviet armed forces, and one particular model – the ‘Navigator’ watch – was worn by Yuri Gagarin on his historic first manned space flight.

Watch this space

Founded in the United Kingdom in the 60s, Sekonda’s high-quality, reliable watches were relatively cheap and soon became very successful. The brand did face problems, however – it always had a reputation for conservative tradition associated with its name due to its Russian background. So in 2004 Sekonda watches added the stylish and contemporary ladies’ Seksy watch line to its range, aimed at the teenage-to-35 age group. Seksy allowed Sekonda to innovate and follow the latest fashion trends. The initial Seksy watch range consisted of 11 watch models, and with some excellent marketing campaigns and some very clever and innovative designs, a number of these watches quickly became best sellers. In fact, the success of the Seksy watch brand prompted Sekonda to expand the line to around 30 models within a year! And let me interrupt this history lesson with my wholehearted congratulations to the company’s marketing people – the name ‘Seksy’ is a stroke of genius. Not only did it take off in the ladies’ market, but the success reverberated all down the line. In short, Sekonda is now ‘cool’ with both genders. Let me bring in Jodie: “A very popular Seksy watch line is the Hidden Hearts ladies’ model – a polished, chrome-plated bracelet comprising interlinked heart shapes, a mother of pearl dial and Swarovski Elements set in the case and dial. “Also sought-after is the Eclipse – a Swarovskistone-set, chrome-plated quartz watch. Others include the Seksy Curve and Seksy Electra.”

“ They are fabulous value… and it means that women can afford more than one to go with different outfits”

Of course one of the benefits of the Seksy range is that they are so affordable, with prices starting from £49.99. “They are fabulous value,” affirms Jodie. “And it means that women can afford more than one to go with different outfits.” It must be said here and now that Sekonda’s main line of watches consists of numerous gold and chrome-plated dress watches for men (and women), with almost every style imaginable. The more I think about the ingenuity behind the name ‘Seksy’, the more it makes me jealous. I just wish I could dream up something like that.

NEW TIMEPIECES

Strongly associated with sports and cycling, Festina is the ‘official timekeeper’ for various major cycling races like the Tour De France, Giro d’Italia and the Vuelta. The brand’s watches are internationally successful – an achievement that it attributes to its high quality, modern designs and good value for money. This model, with black PVD plating, is the official chronograph for the Vuelta, the Spanish cycling tour. Information: 0207 405 5523, sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk or www.festina.com RRP: £169 Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand N14/P15

“Sold in over 20 countries, Avalanche is now a big name in the UK market,” explains LBS. The popular timepieces are complemented with promotional packaging and comprehensive after-sales information for retailer and consumer alike. With five ranges to choose from – Alpha, Alpine, Extreme, Mini and Pure – these high fashion colourful watches are “essential for every retail jeweller,” and are available for both gents and ladies. Information: 01992 470 369 or www.lbslondon.co.uk RRP: From £40

Ones

to watch

a.b.art says that its dramatic and stylish larger watches are much in demand. “It isn’t just the men folk who are raving about the Swiss-made chunky faces – fashion conscious girls like to wear them too!” the brand adds. The O, OA and OC Series are the “leaders of the pack, but for those girls who do want to be square in 2012, it looks as though the iconic E and ES series would fit the bill, and they come in a great selection of cool colours.” Information: 01422 317 539, sales@abart-uk.com or www.abart-uk.com RRP: £182 (ES 104, pictured)

Created by Appleson Agencies, Vibe-Watch, the “original, fully interchangeable timepiece,” taps into the huge demand for trendy, brightly coloured fashion watches, while additionally offering the consumer a choice of colours in all components. Simply clip together (without the need for tools) to create something personal and exclusive. The range now has 30 masculine and feminine colours in most components, creating millions of possible design combinations. All Vibe-Watch components are offered in two sizes (large and small), so fashion conscious children or ladies with smaller wrist sizes can also create something personal, fashionable, unisex and exclusive. Information: applesonagencies@live.co.uk RRP: From £29.99 Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand J45

Heliodor and morganite

Unknown beryls: splinters of the rainbow Focusing on lesser known beryls, Andreas Mitchell distills gem theory and commercial practice into practical information for buying and selling these stunning gemstones

hereas emerald and aquamarine are the well known greens and blues of the beryl family, there are lesser appreciated siblings that really deserve more attention. Striking and reasonably priced, heliodor (yellow) and morganite (pink) languish in the shadow of their pricey cousins, forgotten by the jeweller and unknown to the consumer. These are the missing colours from the beryl rainbow; splinters fallen out and lain in a dusty corner. Today customers are looking for a combination of value, uniqueness and impact and these beryls deliver all three. The UK jewellery sector may be missing a trick in continuing to ignore them.

Background

Beryl is the world’s major source of the element beryllium, which is widely used as an alloy in many metals. Beryllium is rare and valuable, and beryl crystals are mostly mined on an industrial scale that makes their use as a gemstone seem incidental. The varied colour palette of beryl gemstones is

derived from metallic trace elements. Iron gives the blue and yellow of aquamarine and heliodor; chromium and vanadium induce green in emerald; while manganese causes red or pink in morganite. These elements which cause colour are known as ‘chromophores’. With the exception of emerald, most gemstone beryls form in a mineral-rich soup which solidifies into a rock called pegmatite. This type of rock is notable for producing large, well-formed crystals of very good clarity. For example, heliodor has been found in clean, metre-long crystals, and although morganite never reaches this size it is often unincluded. Beryl crystals form as hexagonal columns and the practical effect of this habit, their clarity and size, is that they are a versatile stone that can be cut into a wider range of styles than most other gemstones, with the possible exception of quartz.

Heliodor: gift of the sun

The word ‘heliodor’ is derived from ancient Greek and translates as “gift of the sun”. Heliodor is much rarer than aquamarine and is usually found in the same locations. It was reportedly first identified in Namibia in 1910, but had been mined in the Ukraine since at least the 16th century, albiet probably without the knowledge that it was beryl. As a commodity, heliodor has never been sufficiently available to have jewellery lines developed around it, or to reach a wider circulation. However, it is readily available from gemstone suppliers and has several advantages over comparable looking stones: it looks similar to yellow crysoberyl, but comes in much bigger sizes and better clarity; although having a lesser lustre, it can be comparable

Heliodor and morganite

Left: Superb unheated heliodor cushion cut. Photograph by Andreas Mitchell Below: Heat treated heliodor in white gold setting. Photograph by Aleksey Gnilenkov

Far left: Unheated heliodor round in 9ct gold. Photograph by Christina Rutz Left: Natural unfaceted heliodor crystal in pendant setting. Photograph by Shehal Joseph, Pure Passion Jewellery

“ Today customers are looking for a combination of value, uniqueness and impact and these beryls deliver all three”

in colour and is far less expensive than imperial topaz or yellow sapphire; and while citrine quartz is inexpensive and comes in many yellow hues, it is not as hard wearing as beryl, and the hard watery colours seldom match the velvety saturation of heliodor. The best stones are canary or bright golden yellow, while more often there is a tinge of green in stones, which mellows colour to lemon or honey shades. Yellow-greenish beryl – the colour of golden olive oil – is sometimes referred to as ‘aquamarine crysolite’, but is just an intermediate colour between heliodor and aquamarine. There has been confusion over the use of the term ‘golden beryl’ as distinct from heliodor. This is mostly euphemistic marketing of heated material and it is just regular heliodor. There is also confusion over the use of Davidsonite, after Thomas Davidson who actually found heliodor in a quarry near Aberdeen in the 19th century before it was scientifically classified. Heliodor can come as cat’s eye and very rarely star gemstones, which are caused by a profusion of aligned microscopic tubes in the material similar to ‘rain’ in aquamarine. There is a misconception that heliodor contains uranium oxide and can be lightly radioactive. This may be technically true of a very few stones, but the vast majority of material on the market today does not contain appreciable uranium and is certainly not dangerous. Any beryl where the chromophore is iron is somewhere on the yellow-green-blue continuum and can have its colours manipulated by heating and irradiation. As a general rule, heating drives iron chromophores towards blue, and radiation towards yellow. Therefore yellow-greenish beryl

is commonly heated to increase value of material creating aquamarine, while yellow beryl is often irradiated to gain more intense hues. The results of radiation on heliodor can be very striking, and these stones are the majority of supply in markets such as Bangkok. As with aquamarine, it is important to note that both heating and irradiation can occur naturally while still in the ground. This said, good untreated heliodor is available, and this will often have a lighter, more lemony hue. At temperatures below 200°C its colour is fixed and will not alter. Heliodor offers the jewellery designer summery colours which are a natural complement to silver. This stone looks best in more angular cuts such as baguettes, emerald, kites and trillions, and will therefore pair well with more softened, organic lines in jewellery design. Being generally free from inclusions it is a robust stone to design with and lends itself well to large settings. Conversely, colour intensity is not dependent on size, so small, high-impact stones also work well. Heliodor is relatively unaffected by varying lighting conditions and shows well in daylight and artificial light. The colour will hold its own against nearby colours, which makes it very easy to display, and a striking accessory to matched clothing.

Morganite: petrified candyfloss

First identified in Madagascar in 1910, morganite was named after the steel tycoon and rail magnate J P Morgan in acknowledgment of his support of the American Museum of Natural History, and was also subsequently discovered in the Pala Pegmatites of California. During the 1920s and 30s morganite piqued American public interest as an ‘American gemstone’, and its use became quite common in Art Deco jewellery, spearheaded by Tiffany’s. Since then it has largely been unappreciated by all but mineral collectors. Morganite is often found in large crystals that are free from inclusions. The largest of these ever found was the ‘Rose of Maine’ in 1989, which measured nine inches long and one foot wide. Much scarcer than heliodor, it forms exclusively in rare, lithium-cesium-rich pegmatites, and due to its rarity and beauty morganite is of fairly high commercial value. Today most material comes from Brazil, but some of the best quality comes from Orissa in India, and Pakistan. A uniquely feminine stone, the ideal colour of morganite is candyfloss pink. Peach, apricot and orange type hues are commonplace, while some material can tend toward violet. This is a pastel gemstone where colour is a function of stone size. The greater the thickness of stone at the viewing angle, the more colour will be apparent. A good morganite is delicate, subtle, soft and understated in appearance. Unlike heliodor it naturally partners well with hard lines and geometric jewellery designs, which are softened by its feminine palette. It looks best with silver or white gold and is perhaps best worn near the skin where the similar hues can complement each other. In order to get the maximum effect from morganite, careful attention to cut quality is essential as a stone with incorrect proportions or substandard polish will quickly leak life and colour. Its delicate colour is also very sensitive to lighting conditions. Displaying at its best in daylight, it seldom performs well under incandescent or LED lights. Morganite usually comes out of the ground peach to orange-brown and is then exposed to prolonged sunlight wherein it undergoes a conversion towards pink. Once this transition is complete the resulting colour is permanent under normal conditions. Such natural stones are ideal, but can be hard to source. Most morganites on the market

Heliodor and morganite

are treated by radiation, heating, or both. Colourless beryl (see goshenite below) can be irradiated to become brownish-orange, and brownish orange morganite may transition to pink at temperatures around 400°C. It is therefore likely that much material has undergone at least one and possibly both of these transformations. In my opinion, heat treatment often leaves a perceptible grey mask in the hue of a stone quite similar to that often found in heated aquamarine. Disclosure of treatment is not expected for heated material and can be assumed. Irradiated material should be disclosed but seldom is as the value of the product warrants little risk to vendors in non-disclosure and it is in the stone cutters’ interest to obfuscate the issue. Importantly there is no residual radiation in such processes. Compared to other gemstones in this colour-space, morganite has a great deal going for it. The colour of pink tourmaline is nearly always more saturated and less delicate. Pink diamonds, sapphire and topaz are all more expensive. Kunzite (spodumene) is far too soft to be a versatile stone in jewellery design or to be worn everyday. Morganite has the brightest lustre of all the beryls so scintillates brightly and will be well matched with pavé diamonds and other lighter coloured stones.

Left: Radiation treated morganite brilliant round, 11.8cts. Photograph by Andreas Mitchell Below: Morganite oval in silver with amethyst and diamond. Photograph by Aleksey Gnilenkov

More splinters

No discussion of lesser known beryl gemstones would be complete without discussing goshenite and red beryl. The former is colourless beryl which is occasionally cut, and is very inexpensive. There is not much to recommend it over quartz except hardness, and it is less spectacular than white topaz. It was originally identified as beryl in America and was reportedly used to make lenses for eyeglasses, but this claim cannot be substantiated. Goshenite is sometimes called ‘the mother’ from which all coloured beryls have sprung. This is inaccurate, however, because while it is perfectly possible to induce colour into goshenite, it is conversely possible to take coloured Above left: Goshenite crystals from Brazil. Photograph by Zdjeca Piotr Menduki Above right: Natural red beryl (bixbite) in host rock. Photograph by Rob Lavinsky Left: A crystal of morganite rough howing the distinctive pink after exposure to sunlight. Photograph by Gery Parent

Heliodor and morganite

priced according to demand. The price stones and render them colourless. of morganite and heliodor should not This is because the absence of hue rise exponentially with increasing size as can be due to the interaction of an large, clean rough is readily available. impurity with the crystal lattice, not As a general rule, faceted morganite the lack of one. By manipulation of will be half to two-thirds of the price the lattice with radiation or heating of the equivalent quality aquamarine, such an impurity can give colour or and heliodor one-third to a half by the take it away. In practice, goshenite is same comparison. Thus for a middling only ever altered to induce colour and to good stone, such as may be used in increase its value. Its main importance cocktail jewellery, one could expect to is thus an inexpensive material out pay between £60 and £90 per carat for of which to create other beryls, but Spectacular morganite ring the former and between £30 and £70 per not all goshenite can be successfully in white gold and green tourmaline. Photograph by Aleksey Gnilenkov carat for the latter. manipulated in this way. Red beryl was formerly known Final word as red emerald or bixbite after its “Despite a lack of consumer Possibly the two most under-appreciated discoverer Maynard Bixby. It is the awareness, with such reasonable stones used in jewellery, heliodor and rarest gemstone beryl, prized by prices morganite and heliodor morganite should reasonably command collectors, and is found in only one jewellery can sell itself by more attention. They have all the good place in the world – the Thomas virtue of sumptuous colour” aspects of the beryl family – versatility, Mountains in western Utah, USA. hardness, clarity and unique colours The colour is strong red or raspberry. – while delivering great value for Crystals suffer from a similar money. In the right setting both stones can be remarkable structural weakness to that of emerald, making them rare to performers, offering a real chance to differentiate for those find in sizes over two carats. In fact it is so rare that according jewellery makers and retailers who are seeking notice in a to the mining company there is only one red beryl for 7,000 crowded market. to 8,000 cut rubies and 150,000 diamonds in the world. The Despite a lack of consumer awareness, with such reasonable mining company has stated that it is no longer economic to prices morganite and heliodor jewellery can sell itself by virtue mine this material and has stopped, so when current inventory of sumptuous colour. For those who are willing to explore is gone it will no longer be available. beyond emerald and aquamarine, the myriad delights of the Price beryl rainbow are unlikely to disappoint the adventurous and Heliodor and morganite are slow moving, and unlike much more likely to be a pleasant surprise. emerald, prices for these gemstones have long been stable. Andreas Mitchell holds a degree in Gemmology, an FGA, and has been There has been little appreciation of wholesale prices for involved with gemstones most of his life. He is currently director of over a decade so this makes them a comparative bargain UK Geminvestments Ltd, a specialist supplier of wholesale beryl gem today. As with all gemstones, natural untreated stones with materials. He travels widely to mines and gemstone markets around good colour will attract a premium, while stones at the top the world and is interested in promoting clear practical information end are objects of art rather than a commodity and are about gemstones. You can find out more at

Spring Fair 2012

Show business With a new watch area and collaborations with key brands and buying groups, the organisers of the Jewellery Show at Spring Fair are anticipating another strong year

uilding on the success of the Jewellery Show 2011, which drew a 10 per cent rise in footfall, the show organisers are expecting the event to continue its upward trajectory for 2012. A total of just under 400 jewellery designers, suppliers and manufacturers in the industry – plus hundreds more brands – will exhibit at the NEC from 5 to 9 February, including Charms UK, Chamilia, Flash Jordan, Joseph Lamsin Jewellery, Mishca Jewels, Muru, Nova Silver, PH Wedding Rings, Silver Fantasies and Tresor Paris. The organisers are also proud to welcome Swarovski, which has selected the Jewellery Show 2012 as its first UK exhibition launch platform for several years, and Spinning Jewelry, Ken Carr London and Breuning, which have returned to the exhibition after a few years’ absence. One of the most significant new developments for the event is the launch of Time – a dedicated watch area within the Jewellery Show. Watch makers already signed up to join Time include long-standing exhibitor Condor Group – owner of the Royal London, Cannibal Watches and Time Co brands – as well as Revue Thommen, Alessandro Baldieri, Kennett, Storm Watches, Festina, Oozoo, Danish Designs, and many more.

A total of just under 400 jewellery designers, suppliers and manufacturers in the industry – plus hundreds more brands – will exhibit at the NEC from 5 to 9 February

The Catwalk Café, at the heart of Halls 17 and 18, will showcase the very latest jewellery trends at the daily catwalk shows, and host exclusive seminars provided by industry experts, with presentation topics including celebrity style; the rising price of metals and how to innovate in times of change; the future of retail; and win-win on the web. Elsewhere at the event, the Design Quarter will boast a stunning selection of jewellery from 30 British and international designer-makers. The Design Quarter Gems area will also make a reappearance, with sponsor the Houlden Group selecting its Houlden Group Designer of Excellence for an award to be presented on Monday 6 February at 4pm in the Catwalk Café. Some of the most exciting and talented designers in the UK will present their latest collections to the

For more information please contact 0844 588 8071 or , or log on to to attend the event. You can also follow the Jewellery Show on Twitter, LinkedIn and Facebook.

trade under the Design Quarter Gems umbrella, including Rachel Galley, Aradia Nista, Babette Wasserman, Cindy Dennis Mangan, William Cheshire, Leyla Abdollahi and the winner of the inaugural Houlden Group Designer of Excellence Award in 2011, SHO Fine Jewellery. Also taking place at the Catwalk Café, the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) will once again present its award for the Best Jewellery Collection at the Jewellery Show. This follows on from the successful launch of the award at the 2011 show, which was won by IBB Amsterdam fine jewellery brand Tirisi. The award will be judged by all CMJ member retailers who visit the show, and they will vote based on design quality, innovation, commercial appeal and price. The winner will receive a trophy to display for the duration of the show, as well as the chance to showcase the winning collection at a subsequent CMJ buying meeting. Key jewellery trade bodies including the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), which celebrates its 125th anniversary in 2012; the British Jewellery Giftware and Finishing Federation (BJGF); and the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) will also be present at the Jewellery Show.

, where you can also register

Spring Fair 2012

Exhibitor list A A Jewel Veronika Ab Aagaard A/S Adele Marie AG & Sons (UK) Ltd Alexander Davis Alexis Dove Alice Menter Almost Perfect Amara Amara Amber Centre Amber Hall Jewellery Amilo Limited Amore & Baci Anchorcert Independent Diamond Certification Andea Jewellery Annagee Anne Reeves Jewellery Annie Mundy Jewellery Antonio ben Chimol Apple Display & Shopfitting Ltd Aradia Nista Arbro Ltd Argenta A’Ora Ltd Arran Bay Azteca Trdg Azuni Ltd

17Q10 18L28-M29 18D46-E41 18D60 DQ46 18DQ33 18DQ35 18C42 18E18 18H74 18A08 18C60 18B10-C11 18K58 18G15 18H43 18E16 18G25 18G60 17S75 18DQ50 18L02 18D45 18D59 18E61 18D34

B B K Jewelry Babette Wasserman London Balagan Ltd Banyan Jewellery Bass Premier Company Bassano Collection Group Srl Benor Bering Time Ltd BJA BKT (Rings) Ltd BQ Watches Bransom Retail Systems Ltd Brave Designs Breeze International Breuning GmbH Brown & Newirth Ltd Bulatti Bullion Lab Burkmar Jewellery By Elise Byzantium Collection

17W07 18QD41-49 18K28-L29 18B47 17R15 17U14 18B31 18H42 18H35 17R13 17S42-T43 17R58 1800 18H63 17U30-V31 17R28-S29 18B04 17T63 18DQ31 18C04 18A05

C C L Edwards & Sons Ltd Calista Cavendish French Ceylon Gems Charles Green Charmian Beaton Charms UK Chavin Jewellery Chenz Designs Chrysalis By Silver Wilow Cinderela B Cindy Dennis Mangan CJW Jewellery Clarity & Success Software Ltd Clarke Manufacturing Clogau Gold Ltd CME Leicester Limited CMJ

18L30-M31 18L75 18C05 17U45 17V15 18E67 17R42 18DQ10 18D57 18L42-M43 18D38 18DQ48 17V04 18L60 17P12 17R28 18K12-L13 17S59

Coeur De Lion Schmuckdesign Gmbh 18G28-H29 Condor Group Ltd 18J30-K31 Contor Aichinger 18G58 Cookson Precious Metals 17Q60 Corona 17R04-S05 Creaquest 18C61 Cudworth Enterprises 18B43 Curteis Ltd 17P59 D D Scott-Walker Dabbah Ltd Daisy Jewellery Dan Jewellers Daniel Gallie Dansk Smykkekunst DanskSmykkekunst De Facto Asia De Mexico Deakin & Francis Ltd Delcam International Plc Di Perle Gmbh Divine DMJ DMJ DMJ Dolphin Minerals Domino Donald Clarke Import/Export Dower & Hall Dwarka Gem and Jewellers DWJ

18N05 18H01 17Q42-R43 17W04-X05 18DQ27 18A14-B15 18A14-B15 18B60 18G06 18H59 17U75 17V54 180000 17T30-U31 17S28-T29 17T28-U29 18B74-C75 17P44-Q45 17N04-P05 18DQ01 17V02 17T01

E Earth Works ED Erfurt Design Eliash Jewellery Elran Ltd Eltikki Designer Jewellery Emeraldcroft Diamonds Eon Tech Euro Pearls

18E75 18M59 18C43 18E28-G29 18C64 17T44 17V70 18M28-N29

F F.A. OR. Fashion Italy Ferrara GiFè Gioielli Festina Filigree Street Ltd Finer Packaging Fire Fossil Flash Jordan Fleet

18M20 17T07 17N14-P15 18M56 17Q74 18E10 DQ56 17V49

G G J I S Ltd G Mckenzie & Co Gecko Gemex Gemma J Gemvine Ltd Gemvision Europe Gift Time Products Gina Stewart Cox Global Soul GOLD & SILVER API GROUP Gold Pack Packaging Ltd Gold Star Powders Golden Wings Srl Goldmajor Ltd Gracie J

17N60 18L12-M13 18K30-L31 17S04-T05 18G11 17U05 18N59 18C74 18A23 18D40 17U14 17R60 17S61 17U14 18M14-N15 18H61

H H A Light Findings Ltd 18B58 H S Walsh & Sons Ltd 17U60-V61 Hallmark Design & Shopfitting Ltd 17P61 Hamilton & Young 18C18 Han-Goldwyn Ltd 17Q14 Hanron Jewellery Ltd 17R12 Happy Dragon 18D76 Harrison Bros & Howson 18L74 Hazel Atkinson 18DQ19 Hean Studio Ltd 17N58 Henderson (J & K) Enterprises Ltd 18J04-K05 Henderson (J & K) Enterprises Ltd 18H04-J05 Henig Diamonds 17S30-T31 Herbert Marx 17T13 Hewitt Jlry Eqpmt 17T75 Hockley Mint Ltd 17Q30-R31 Hot Diamonds Group 18L45 House Of Panache 17S15 Hundred Islands Ltd 18A27 Hundred Islands Ltd (Philippines) 18A27 Huw Davis Ltd 18H70 HW Tankel (Scotland) Ltd 17Q13 I IAR Istanbul Gold Refinery 17T48 IBB Amsterdam BV 17V40 Icon Watches 18H44 ICY Jlry Design 17T10 IDJC - London 17R15 Inch Of Gold Ltd 18M12 Inferno Jewellery Ltd 18B01 Inna 18C08 Intelligent Retail 18M58 Intercontinental One 18J32 International Bullion 17R30-S31 International Collection (Uk) Ltd 18C28-E29 International Packaging Corp Uk 17R61 it DIAMONDS 18D43 it DIAMONDS 18D43 Iwm Designs Limited 17P75 J Jackie Brazil Ltd Jax Jewellery Ltd Jaykom Products JCI Jewellery Jeremy Hoye Jersey Pearl Jessica Flinn Jewel Pak International Jewel Pak International Jewel World Limited Jewellery Focus Jewelmaster Jo For Girls Joias Jos von Arx Joseph & Pearce Ltd Joseph Lamsin Jewellery Jsn Jewellery Julia Burness Just Brothers & Co Juvi Designs

18H60 18D39 17S60 18K42-L43 18DQ21 17S44 18D63 18M65 18M65 18B42 17T09 17Q75 18G07 17T58-U59 18G08 17S12 18DQ03 17P04-Q05 18DQ02 18M60-N61 18D67

K K & R Jewellery 17U01 Kali Ma Designs Ltd 18K61 Karma 18G14-H15 Kate Dumbleton 18DQ26 Ken Carr London 17S13 Kestrel Manufacturing Jewellery Ltd 17N44-P45 Kimberley Selwood 18DQ04 Kissika 1.8E+40 Kit Heath Ltd 18J28-K29

Spring Fair 2012

Kleshna Handel Kokkino Kristal Diamonds Ltd Kristina Broderick Jewellery Kutuu

18E35 18DQ11 17T04 18B06 18E12

L L M Jewellery Ltd 17V01 Lambretta Watches 18J47 Laroche Intâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;l 17T45 Lavan 18DQ24 LBJ Jewellery 18C14 Lemon Citrine 18D41 Leslie Donn Ltd 17P01 Leyla Abdollahi 18DQ54 Lily & Lotty 18D43 Lily Charmed 18E09 Linda Macdonald 18DQ16 Li-Ren Stone & Pearl Jewellery 18H45 Little Pinkies 18C06 Lola Rose Jewellery Ltd 18G30 London Pearl Company 17V08 Lotusfeet 18C10 Lucet Mundi 17U42-V43 Lucky Eyes 18B44 Lucrative Commercial Pvt Ltd/Tudi Billo 18A55 Lucy Q Designs 18DQ18 Luke Stockley Ltd 17S09 Luna Tree Jewellery 18D55 Luxor Gioielli 17U09 M Magnetic Jewellers.Com Magpie (Europe) Ltd/GemTAGS Mara Hotung Jewels Mark Milton Ltd Martick Jewellery Masha of Sweden Massart Mayer Design Ltd Mccourts Jewellery Midhaven Ltd Midland Displays Ltd Mireya (UK) Ltd Miss Katie Cupcake Missoma Modern Primatives Mounirs Design Mss Watch Co. Muru MW Edelsteine N NAG Nannapas Neilson Photography Nelson Jewellery Arts Co. Ltd. Newcom Distributors Ltd Nhan Nguyen Jewellers Nick Hubbard Nico London Noble Gift Packaging Nomination Nova Silver NTR Metals UK Ltd

18B09 17R74 18DQ32 17Q04-R05 18D30 18C35 18A31 18E06 17R48 18C01 17P74 17S06 18G09 17S33 18H75 18DQ13 18J43 18C30 17V44

17T49 18C32 17U58 17W05 18K15 17W13 18DQ12 18D32 17S74 18K14 18G44 17P68

O Oceanic Jewellers Ltd OOZOO Timepieces Ortak Jewellery Otis Jaxon

18K60 18J59 17N12-P13 18000

P P H Wedding Rings Pandora Jewellery Uk Ltd Paradise Jewellery PD Kundanwala Jewellers Peace is of Bianca Peace Of Mind Pearce Displays Ltd Pearls Of The Orient Perfection Jewellery Ltd Phantasya Collection Gmbh Phuze Jewellery Ping Ping Jewellery Ltd Pip Portley Planet Gold Ltd Pollards inc Cool Case Pomegranate Posh Jewellery - Mexican Silver Potters (London) Ltd Prabhu Enterprises Ltd Pranda Uk Ltd Prince Electronics Ltd Priory Products Pursuit Software Ltd R R E Morrish R.M. Shah Ltd. Rachel Entwistle Rachel Galley Retail Systems Richard Cooper Bronze Ltd Ritone (UK) Robinson & Stirling Ltd Rockshop Wholesale Ltd Rodgers & Rodgers Rodney Holman Rofin-Baasel UK Ltd Rowell Trading Company Russell J Lord

17Q12 17P14-Q15 18A42 17W11 18C09 18A28-B29 17Q61 1.8E+16 17R02 18B30-C31 18D74 18G04 18L15 17S01 17N68 18E13 18C46 18M74-N75 17U54 17U28-V29 18J14 18B58 17P60

17T12 17T47 DQ06 18DQ51 17N74 18A35 17W01 18A07 18A60-B61 18C40 18H02 18M75 17V45 17S43

S S K Diamonds 17Q09 Safdar Hussain Enterprises 18B07A Safeguard Independent Jewellery Valuation Service 18K58 Samuel Jones Pearls 18N13 Sana Gems and Jewellery 18B07 Sara Preisler 18DQ05 Scala Gioielli srl 17U13 Sea Gems Ltd 18K04-L05 Sellmoor Ltd 18K44 Sheila Fleet 18DQ34 SHO Fine Jewellery 18DQ52-59 Signature Engraving Systems Uk Ltd 17U61 Silver Cherry Ltd 18C45 Silver Service 18G42 Silver Willow 18L42-M43 Silverline-Sphere of Life 18H13 Silvex Images India Pvt Ltd 18C63 Simon Carter Limited 18G12 Simon Kemp Jewellers 18D61 Simply Marbleous 18A58 Since 1853 Ltd 18K33 Siren Silver Ltd 18A30 Skulls and Orchids DQ23A So Jewellery 18H31 Solitaire Gemological Laboratories Ltd 17S48 Sonya Bennett 18DQ25 Soup Dragon 18A44 Spinning Jewelry A/S 18B28-C29 Spoke 925 18J61

Stack Ring Co Storm Storm Strom Brothers Ltd Stubbs & Co Studex Uk Ltd Suchak & Suchak Sue Arnold Jewellery Suree Collection SuShilla Sutton Tools Svane & Luhrs Swarovski UK

18L42-M43 18H30-J31 18H30-J31 18C59 17T42-U43 17U50 18C02 18E14 18A17 18DQ28 17T60 17N08-P09 18L44-M45

T T&J (UK) Co Ltd 17R07 T.H. March 17S58 Talbots (Birmingham) Ltd 17R75 Tara Kirkpatrick/Anthony Blakeney/ Collette Waudby 18DQ07 Tatty Devine 18A25 TBR Sales 17V06 Technical Lamps 17T61 Thai Design Distributors Ltd 18L58 Thammarat Trading Ltd 18B51 The Birmingham Assay Office 18K58 The Laboratory At The Birmingham Assay Office 18K58 The Opal People 17U44 The Paula Bolton Collection Ltd 18G62 Ti Sento 17V40 Tianguis Jackson 18M04 Time Accessories 18H56 Time-iT Ltd 18H12 Timesource Ltd 18H14 TJW Diamonds Ltd 17R13 Town Talk Polish Co Ltd 18M61 TR-Designs 18B36 Treasure House Ltd 17T14-U15 Tregawne 18M44 Tresor Paris 17U04-V05 Trollbeads 18J74-K75 Turquoise Jewellery 18L61 U Unique Jewelry Ltd

17N14-P15

V Valentina Jewellery Ltd Vibe (Appleson Agencies Ltd) Vimal Arts and Crafts Virk International Vista Jewelry Ltd Viventy Jewels Vizati

18A06 18J45 18A51 17V50 17T06 18J75 18H05

W Waxing Poetic Wedds & Co Weston Beamor Ltd William Cheshire

18C47 17R14 17P44-Q45 18DQ53 X

Xmc International

17R44-S45 Z

Zarafa Designs Zelda Wong Zen Diamond Zilver Designs Ltd

18D68 18DQ36 17S02 18A04-B03

Spring Fair 2012

It’s a

celebration

Lindsey Straughton highlights the creativity of today’s jewellery designermakers, choosing a selection of Design Quarter exhibitors, all of whom are supported by the British Jewellers’ Association in this, its 125th year

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SHO Fine Jewellery: Hall 18, Design Quarter 52-59 Sarah Ho will show new designs for the ‘Coin’ diffusion line, inspired by Chinese coins, in 18 carat yellow or white gold with diamonds, as well as other, very colourful styles. www.shojewellery.com

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Mounir: Hall 18, Design Quarter 13

he British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) is celebrating its 125th year in 2012. It was back in 1887 when a group of jewellery and silverware producers from Birmingham got together and wrote to fellow members of their industry to call a meeting of the trade. This meeting addressed the various problems of the time: the prevalence of crime and insolvencies; the lack of training; and the poor state of business – problems which still sound remarkably pertinent today! However one of the major differences 125 years on is the growing number of designers in our trade – an area the BJA has attempted to nurture in recent times and is proud to count as a third of its membership. Here are some examples of BJA designer craft members exhibiting in the Design Quarter at the Spring Fair Jewellery Show for 2012…

The Mounir spring/ summer 2012 collection experiments with colours and shapes of ethically sourced stones. These chandelier earrings were designed and hand crafted by highly skilled craftsmen in the London studio. www.mounir.co.uk

Sheila Fleet: Hall 18, Design Quarter 34  Sheila has designed a modern silver ring with CZ for the Wild Grasses Collection, incorporating her signature enameled look. www.sheilafleet.co.uk

Alice Menter: Hall 18, Design Quarter 35

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Cindy Dennis Mangan: Hall 18, Design Quarter 48

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Alice’s debut collection transformed materials such as nuts, washers and zips – not usually synonymous with high-end jewellery design. The wing nuts are gold- and silver-plated, and combined with plated hexagonal nuts to create striking designs. www.alicementer.co.uk

Cindy has been selected to exhibit as a ‘Houlden Group Gems’ 2012 debut designer. Her awardwinning ‘The Princess and the Python’ range, in sterling silver and gold vermeil, will include a number of new pieces launching at the show, including the statement Python bangle collection. www.cindydennismangan.com

Spring Fair 2012

Chavin: Hall 18,  Design Quarter 10

This large rose gold vermeil jaguar bangle with rubies is part of the ever-growing range of Peruvian-inspired jewellery designed by Anna De Costa for Chavin. www.chavinjewellery.com

Hazel Atkinson Jewellery: �

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Hall 18, Design Quarter 19

Alexis Dove: Hall 18, Design Quarter 33

For colourful impact, check out Hazel’s new collection of anodised aluminium jewellery – ‘Natural Selection’. www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk

Rachel Entwistle: Hall 18, Design Quarter 06

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Kokkino: Hall 18, 

Rachel’s latest ranges are quirky representations of the natural world and its creatures, with a twist. These intricately detailed and embellished black rhodium Long Spider earrings, decorated with pyrite and onyx, are strikingly feminine but also deliciously quirky. www.rachelentwistle.co.uk

Additional pieces have been added to the popular sterling silver Shimmer Collection, with its ‘dip in gold’ effect to give the two tone look. www.kokkino.co.uk

Sushilla: Hall 18, Design Quarter 28 

First time exhibitor at the Jewellery Show, but already very popular with the trendy London retailers, Sushilla presents her new collection, Esme. Affordable colour is her forte, and stones in these rings include iolite, chrysoprase, fluorite and rose quartz. www.sushilla.co.uk

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Sonya Bennett Jewellery: Hall 18, Design Quarter 25 This striking sterling silver and 18 carat gold tawny owl speaks of intelligence, poise, knowledge and of course wisdom, and will complement any look associated with the strong nature trend. www.sonyabennettjewellery.com

Design Quarter 11

Lewes retailer Alexis can design with the added advantage of immediate feedback from her customers. These keenly priced, on-trend ‘Blossom’ rabbit studs, available in silver and in gold vermeil, are surely a winner! www.alexisdove.com

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Alexander Davis: Hall 18, Design Quarter 46 The Typhoon Palace collection is a collaboration between Alexander Davis and Amber Atherton of MyFlashTrash. The pieces imagine a fantasy palace lost deep within the Asian jungle, and this Typhoon Palace tower ring in sterling silver plated with gunmetal rhodium and rose gold is set with peridot, tourmaline and smoky quartz. www.rowandavis.com

In association with:

Please visit the BJA stand (Hall 18, Stand H35) to find out more about its plans for the year’s celebratory programme, and vote on its commemorative 125th silver desk accessory design.

TAKING STOCK

Takin Taking

stock

Gaventa London’s jewellery �

Nova Silver has been manufacturing its own jewellery for around six years, and 

supplies many different retailers, from major internet stores to small independent jewellers and gift shops. Following the success of its Silver Kitten, Bemine semi-precious stone and multiple amber ranges, it has introduced a stylish and contemporary Stainless Steel range, brand new for 2012. The range features both classic and modern earrings, necklaces, bangles and bracelets at very reasonable prices. In addition to this, Nova Silver is introducing some new designs to the already popular Amber Art, and some classic design semi-precious stones to the Bemine range. Information: 01603 305 799, sales@novasilver.co.uk or www.novasilver.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand G44

collections for 2012 offer bracelets, necklaces and earrings, from fashionable ‘mix and match’ items to the new Czarina range, which uses cz and Austrian crystals to make stunning statement pieces. Gaventa says that its wide selection of brooch designs are perennially popular – pictured are just two of the new designs for 2012; a crystal butterfly and a sweet bee brooch. Every brooch comes in its own elegant presentation box, making it “the perfect gift,” says Gaventa. Information: 01707 654 820 or sales@gaventadistribution.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 5, Stand J05

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XMC International Ltd is a specialist manufacturer of finished mounts in 18 carat gold and platinum. Its extensive range of semiset and plain mounts caters for a large variety of stone sizes, to suit a wide range of preferences. Additionally, it provides a large collection of eternity rings coming in different widths and stone sizes. The company’s ever-growing range now includes a large variety of earrings and pendants to complement its existing designs. Information: 0121 523 1028 Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand R44/S45

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Luxury jeweller Tresor Paris will debut over 200 new designs at the Spring Fair Jewellery Show this February. Having seen outstanding success in 2011, Tresor Paris will be expanding its range to include pendants and watches as well as bringing in more items featuring pavé set crystals, gold and diamonds, with individual retailers also receiving bespoke pieces. The brand is now focused on creating spectacular items using more precious materials and will be launching a selection of limited edition designs to run alongside its signature pieces. Information: 0203 355 4030 Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand U04-V05

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“Following the success of Merii and Cai Jewels, Pranda is about to romance you with its latest collection – Blossom Copenhagen,” says the company. The Danish designed jewellery brand features Italian leather wristwear with beautifully crafted charms. Blossom offers a complete jewellery collection “inspired by the passion and beauty of nature, love and life.” It is available in sterling silver and silver with gold plate. Information: 0208 783 2043 or prandabrands@pranda.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand U28-V29

TAKING STOCK

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Lavan Designer Jewellery is launching its new unique jewellery collection of gold and silver, with a new range of white, grey and peacock pearls and vibrant opals for Spring Fair 2012. Each piece of jewellery is handcrafted at Lavan studios in Buckingham, UK. “Lavan prides itself on quality, customer service, and fast delivery,” the company adds. Information: 01280 815 499 or www.lavanjewellery.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand DQ24

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Svane & Lührs says that its hand-sewn, sheep leather strap (pictured) is the “must-have bracelet this spring,” for both ladies and gentlemen with style and class. With many different colours of leather and over 450 charms to choose from, the bracelet “is a timeless piece of jewellery,” the company enthuses. The ‘It’ bracelets are finished with a silver magnetic lock or goldplated silver, and exclusively accompanied by a smooth leather pouch. Information: 0191 214 7074 or sales@km-jewellery.com Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand N08-P09

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PH Wedding Rings will be introducing its new 2012 range at the NEC. One of the ranges combines high-grade Argentium silver with a choice of nine carat yellow, red or white inlays. “Initial pre-sales have exceeded all expectations due to the very reasonable selling prices,” says PH. It will also be presenting a new range of high-tech rings with “extraordinary effects”. In addition, the company has a vastly extended range of plain rings, enabling customers to order almost any ring in any carat and width. Information: 0208 203 1919, sales@phrings.com or www.phrings.com Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand Q12

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Reading-based Gift Time Products has added some new models to its already successful range of animal sound alarm clocks, with the ‘revving’ motorbike, sports cars and loud train alarm clocks, as well as a skull and crossbones version that screeches at you to get up! “All clocks have superb quality metal cases and sell really well, and our unique ‘dead stock policy’ ensures risk free purchasing!” the company adds. Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.gift-time-products.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand C74 and Hall 5, Stand G74

3D CAD is now playing a massive part in the design and manufacture of jewellery display and shopfitting, and J M Pearce Display is using a combination of 3D inventor, AutoCAD and large format CNC machine centres, allowing it to design, prototype and manufacture with great ease and quality control. With over 30 years in the trade, Pearce Displays says it is “blending knowledge and experience with technology and ingenuity.” Information: 01484 605 458 or www.pearcedisplays.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand Q61

“If you happen to flick though the glossy celebrity magazines, there’s one common fashion trend that becomes very apparent – Shamballa bracelets,” says Appleson Agencies Ltd. Created to represent and symbolise Tibetan spiritualism, they are worn by Justin Bieber, Nicole Scherzinger, JLS and many more. Vibe Jewellery offers the ‘designer look’ at a fraction of the price. With one, three, five or nine sparkling spheres each set with 100 Austrian crystals, the bracelets are available in 10 colours. Vibe creator John Appleson says: “Our company has always been at the forefront of making popular trends available at affordable prices, and this stunning range is no exception.” Information: 0113 294 1269 or applesonagencies@live.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand J45

TAKING STOCK

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Charms UK says that its Candy Bling bracelets are the latest must-have accessory. The Candy Bling collection includes over 200 bracelets, necklaces and earrings created with coloured crystal, pearl and sterling silver. Charms UK will be exhibiting at Spring Fair, where it will be launching various new designs. The new brochure is also now available. Information: 0117 968 3979 or sales@charmsonline.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand R42

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The Birmingham Assay Office offers an increasing range of commercial, independent, professional services to help jewellery retailers, manufacturers and distributors differentiate their product offering and give their customers a unique experience. At the same time, the organisation strives to maintain high levels of consumer confidence in the UK jewellery industry. Among the new additions to its service range for the coming season is the Diamond Jubilee Mark, which is an additional commemorative hallmark that can be applied from now until the end of 1 October 2012. Point of sale retail packs are also available. Information: 0121 236 6951 or www.theassayoffice.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand K58

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Valentina says it is looking forward to an exciting 2012, having formed a new alliance with industry professional Gaventa London. Due to be showcasing more than 10 new collections at Spring Fair, it will also unveil a new catalogue, along with packaging and point of sale material. Drawing on past decades “but without being retrospective,” new ranges include Bohemia – an eclectic mix of chilled-out jewellery, which features clusters of genuine Murano glass beads in vibrant tones; Enchanted, which sees the revival of Valentina’s Murano glass hearts in ‘delicious’ colours; and Timeless, which offers classic pieces in warm, contemporary tones and vibrant, fresh combinations. Information 01707 654 820 or sales@gaventadistribution.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand A06

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ED Erfurt Design’s eye-catching silver collection, ED-Unique, consists of rings and pendants set with aquamarine, ruby or opal semi-precious stones. EDClassic is a basic collection of sets with amethyst, peridot, moonstone and topaz. The new collection ED-Funtasya, with stacking rings and matching combination-pendants, gives the customer the possibility to create a personal piece of jewellery. As a new brand, ED introduces its Plata Pa’ti collection, defined by clear, geometrical shapes in silver. Information: www.erfurt-design.de Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand M59

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 Speaking of its new product, the Just Look Mini Microscope,

The Bug Store says: “At the London jewellery fair, even the other exhibitors were investing in one, as a useful tool to check tricky-to-see hallmarks or to sell on a retail basis,” adding: “The special crystal optics and high intensity LED light give you the ‘wow’ factor like you’ve never seen before!” A full CD catalogue is available on request or a price-free version can be downloaded from the website. Trade price lists are sent on request. Information: 0118 947 1405, www.gift-time-products.co.uk or www.justlookmicroscope.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand C74 and Hall 5, Stand G74

The Sterling Silver Echo collection from Curteis comprises two necklace styles, matching bracelet and earrings. The company says that this dainty twig collection “captures one of nature’s treasures and is intricately detailed, creating inspirational beauty.” Each piece of this collection is partnered with delicate lavender Swarovski pearls. All pieces are hand-assembled and finished to a high quality. Information: 0800 195 6771 or www.curteis.com Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand P59

TAKING STOCK

This year Thai Design Distributors 

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Hanron Jewellery explains that it “holds one of the largest and most varied, dynamic ranges in the UK,” with innovative, fashionable and contemporary designs that “reflect the latest trends throughout our diverse range, all bearing the distinction and high standards you have come to expect from Hanron Jewellery. We are constantly adding new lines to our already extensive gold, diamond and silver range. We are also major distributors for the extremely fashionable Tresor Paris range.” Hanron Jewellery will be exhibiting at the Jewellery Show at the NEC in Birmingham, where you can pick up its new catalogue. Information: 0207 831 6170 Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand R12

launches several new design collections. Its Apple Blossom collection, which incorporates silver and 18 carat gold plating, has proved especially popular. As a manufacturer with almost 40 years of experience in the jewellery trade, Thai Design continues to supply to wholesalers, retailers and exclusively to designers who have their own brand name, and says that “quick delivery, superb production quality and efficient customer service ensures the stability and growth of this family business.” Information: 0208 903 0233 or info@thaidesignuk.com Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand L58

The RingCube from Sutton Tools 

offers a new approach to ring engraving. Guided by easy-to-use, touch-screen software, you can achieve “amazing results in five easy steps with just 30 minutes of training!” Ideal for personalising wedding jewellery or gifts, the RingCube engraves fonts and symbols onto rings or bracelets in just a few minutes. “The compact RingCube can fit comfortably in your showroom ensuring maximum impact. You can offer customers free engraving or increase profits by charging for an added value service,” says Sutton Tools. Information: 0121 236 7139, info@suttontools.co.uk or www.suttontools.co.uk Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand T60 DWJ Ltd is a family business with 35 years �

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“The name Lucet Mundi has become synonymous with luxury, elegance and success,” says the company. The packaging, teamed with an attractive gift bag, provides an added purchasing incentive. As it branches out into innovatively designed and trendsetting items, the focus “to provide perfection at all times, fuels us in maintaining top quality service and merchandise,” the company adds. Information: 0844 736 5707 or www.lucetmundi.com Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand U42-V43

of experience in wholesale jewellery and scrap buying. As a buyer of precious metals it provides a fast, friendly service and has on-site melt, assay and X-ray gun equipment. DWJ pays “top prices and premiums on gold coins and investment bars,” and offers immediate payment on clean live scrap. With a showroom in the Jewellery Quarter, it holds a large range of ready stock of 9 and 18 carat gold, platinum and silver jewellery, and loose diamonds from small to large of different grades and shapes. The company also has an on-site workshop, conducting jewellery repairs, setting, mounting and polishing. Information: 0121 236 7051 or sales@dwjewellery.com Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand T01

Pomegranate explains that its flowing, frame-set �

necklace with pearl, crystal and chalcedony “taps perfectly into this season’s aquatic trend.” Delicately beaded to give subtle, shimmering movement and with a versatile length, its “casual elegance will carry you right through the spring and into summer.” The piece (pictured) is made in sterling silver, with an 18 carat gold plate. Handmade in India, Pomegranate’s jewellery designs are based on simple, organic shapes, and ancient or tribal forms. Information: 0207 937 9735 Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand E13

TAKING STOCK

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Based in Hatton Garden, Villa Marts is a wholesale diamond supplier as well as a jewellery manufacturer. Its platinum, diamond micro-claw solitaire engagement ring for ladies (pictured) is one of a collection of semi-set wedding rings available in its wedding and engagement ring collection. Information: 0207 417 0260 or www.villamarts.co.uk

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For those in need of wrapping paper, in-store gift wrap specialist Something Classy has introduced a service to supply premium quality, 22-gram, customprint bespoke tissue and gift wrap in small quantities. Available as both sheets and on-counter rolls, the company can produce as little as six reams of tissue or four counter-rolls of gift wrap, giving retailers an opportunity to make a cost-effective statement with their brand in time for spring. Information: 01543 480 914 or sales@somethingclassy.co.uk

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Pure Attraction is Ntinga Ltd’s stylish 

“Considering these difficult economic times leads us to the conclusion that we all have to work harder and concentrate even more on providing a good service and having the right product for our customers,” says Mayanna. “We believe that we have the right product and we will continue to have the very best quality of Baltic amber set in gold or in silver, made to the very best designs by the most experienced craftspeople. In 2012 we will have an exciting new range of amber jewellery designs.” Information: 01494 524 124 or anna@mayanna.com

range of silver magnetic mesh-style bracelets. The collection is complete with point of sale pouches and consumer leaflets. The bracelets are available in plating of five different colours and three widths. Matching accessories are also available with the collection. Ntinga also manufactures semi-precious gem set rings, earrings and bracelets, set with amethyst, blue topaz and various other gems. Diamond eternity rings complete the ranges and are made from platinum, gold and palladium, in ultra fine designs. Follow Ntinga on Facebook/pure-attraction. Information: 0208 959 6550

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Chamilia UK introduces the new SoHo Collection, which it describes as “artistic and contemporary with a unique mix of materials.” Inspired by the famously hip neighbourhood in Manhattan and the clean lines and shapes found in industrial areas, it features beads in new materials like sterling mesh and unique art glass in dramatic designs and colours. “Capture the vibrancy of the city with the SoHo Collection’s edgy yet feminine look.” Information: 0844 811 2142 or chamiliauk@chamilia.com

TAKING STOCK

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“With its 45 years of experience, �

Dexter manufactures classic signet rings of the finest quality,” says the company, and its traditional die-stamped signet rings are “manufactured to the highest standard, which customers of Dexter’s have come to expect.” Available plain, un-engraved or traditionally deepengraved, its four classic shapes are produced from Dexter’s own exclusive dies. The rings come in an assortment of head sizes, shapes, and weights, in silver and 9, 14 and 18 carat yellow, white and red gold. All plain signets are made up to order and ready for same-day dispatch. Information: 01580 241 680 or www.dexterrings.com/trade

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Lawson Ward & Gammage offers a selection of gold and platinum gents’ wedding bands, made with “a combination of classic quality and contemporary looks.” The company’s collections include wedding rings for men that demonstrate “superb design and top quality manufacture,” and are available in many different carats, including the increasingly popular platinum and palladium. Based in one of the oldest workshops in central London, it continues to make in-demand products, and having taken on two new goldsmiths last year, Lawson Ward & Gammage will “continue the traditions of quality and attention to service well into the future.” Information: 0207 253 4146 or info@lwandg.com

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Jep Pads Limited is a UK-based manufacturing business, which provides “high quality, highly durable products and service to enhance jewellery displays.” Family-run for over 30 years, it offers “exceptional customer service and inspiring, cost-effective display solutions.” Formerly known as Jep Pads Displays, the company is in the process of relocating to new premises in the first quarter of 2012. Jep Pads products include traditional displays as well as modern, bespoke and cutting edge designs in a wide array of colours and finishes. The re-covering service also provides an option for customers to revamp existing displays. Information: 0161 429 7462 or www.jeppads.co.uk

The latest Mishca Jewels Desire collection showcases a selection of the brand’s eye-catching new signature statement pieces, with unique designs of sterling silver, gold and rose gold vermeil gem-encrusted cocktail rings; intricate Medialuna pendants and earrings; and striking Hidden Desire statement cuffs. Featured in the image is the Medialuna pendant in rhodium-plated sterling silver, set with aquamarine and amethyst gemstones. Information: 0207 193 1995, info@mishca.co.uk or www.mishca.co.uk

Retail management systems

All systems

GO!

Naida Ally investigates the importance of up-to-date retail management systems when it comes to streamlining business operations

eeping up-to-date with the latest that retail management and POS systems have to offer is important in any sector, but various technological advancements are enabling retailers to organise, automate and synchronise their processes, allowing a smoother selling experience for customers, staff and business owners alike. The right technology can aid customer relations, as well as assisting with issues such as inventory monitoring and control, staff productivity and streamlining and simplifying operations. Even the smallest of developments in technology can make a world of difference, and therefore it is vital to keep systems updated, as Beaverbrooks discovered in 2007 when the decision was made to replace its point of sale

systems, which had been in place since 2001. The retailer needed an EPoS system that could cope with the intricacies of the jewellery sector, and an EPoS technology able to cater for deposits, special orders and repairs. Head of IT Patrick Walker explains: “We want[ed] to improve the buying experience for our customers by having plenty of payment options within the store. For example, each store has four EPoS terminals, two static units and two wireless units. We also have two wireless chip and PIN devices across the four units, as well as one chip and PIN connected to a wired till.” With this in mind, Beaverbrooks named the solution Liquid POS, as it wanted to create fluidity around the customer experience. Patrick adds: “We don’t want customers to feel that they have to come to the till to complete their purchase. We needed technology to fit in with our business model. For example, our sales assistants bring jewellery to the customers, and also show shoppers our products via the mobile handheld devices. Alongside this, staff need to be better informed, so we wanted to ensure we had realtime sales information.” The project team involved seven

people from Beaverbrooks, including two developers, one systems engineer, two support desk workers, one project delivery manager and Patrick himself. Datacash took care of the EFT (electronic funds transfer) payment processing, while Vodat International was responsible for the network. Patrick explains: “Vodat has invested in its network service and we’ve built a key relationship with the business. It was an easier decision to develop our own EPoS technology when we knew we had tried and tested partners who we could rely upon to support us as we looked to take the business to the next level.” Once the company decided to develop its own EPoS technology solution, it then spent 18 months developing the system, before beginning the rollout in April 2010 in a pilot at its Blackpool store. The system has provided Beaverbrooks with a host of benefits, as Patrick illustrates: “Previously the technology used to poll overnight so there was no live sales data. The new POS delivers real-time sales statistics for the business. This means area managers, the executive team and directors can get a real-time view of the business.

Retail management systems

“Having real-time sales data has taken the business to the next level. We’re now looking at providing the business with real-time stock visibility. In our business it’s very difficult to hold all our ring stock in all sizes in all branches. However, by having better visibility across the company we’ll be able to improve even more on our service delivery.

“ Technology like this would not be possible without our new EPoS system”

“We’re also hoping to be able to spot new opportunities in areas such as mobility,” he adds. “We have netbooks in the store environment, but going forward we’ll look to see how we can bring galaxy tablets and iPads into the business. We’re also looking into the possibilities of emailing our customers receipts and sending out SMS messaging for special orders or repairs. Our secure network will play a central role in ensuring we can communicate these messages across the business.” The most immediate change is the forthcoming introduction of an electronic gift card into the business.

Patrick says: “This is a major initiative for our business and will be a key revenue stream; technology like this would not be possible without our new EPoS system.” Developing a retail management system from in-house from scratch is, thankfully, not the only option available to retailers, as there is a plethora of off-the-shelf and tailored solutions available from retail management system suppliers. Magpie Europe Ltd is one such company, and managing director David Steeples provides the lowdown on its Ethos stock management system – a fully functional jewellery software and associated point of sale hardware: “Ethos has been developed with the help of jewellers who know what they want. Our aim has been to keep it simple and user-friendly, so jewellers can concentrate on selling products. “By helping the jeweller to identify what their customers want, and which items are more profitable, the customer relationship module will help build better relationships with the customers and bring more feet through the door. By stocking more profitable items and eliminating slow moving or dead stock – as highlighted by Ethos – [retailers can] keep tight control over supplier debt, re-ordering and stock holding.”

The company, which also manufactures GemTAGS jewellery labels, offers through its Ethos product a stock, point of sale and accounting software system developed specially for the retail jewellery industry. It can be used in either single- or multi-store businesses, and offers security, total accuracy at point of sale and faster and easier stocktaking. By using the new Elo 15E1 touch-screen system with GemTAGS thermal receipt printers, labelling printers and barcode scanners, Magpie offers a compact, fully functional, affordable system. David adds: “By offering a twomonth, no obligation, free trial, we are sure that the retail jeweller will find this ideal for their needs.” Obviously, retail management needs vary from company to company, and a technological overhaul requires a significant amount of time and investment. Clarity & Success Software’s Karen Russell highlights the importance of a dialogue between retailers and system designers. For the company’s most recent update, the 2.7, it took customer feedback into account as always and made changes accordingly. The newer version enables “new multiple credit items,” which “allow[s] you to credit a number of items off the same receipt.”

“By helping the jeweller to identify what their customers want, and which items are more profitable, the customer relationship module will help… bring more feet through the door”

Magpie Europe

Retail management systems

Clarity & Success Other features tailored to improve the customer experience both in-store and beyond include the option of automatic emails, where orders or repairs are followed up by the system; ‘wish lists’, where customers can browse the system, identifying desired items to add to their personal list for gifts; and images at the point of sale (POS) screen, providing a screenshot of the item being sold. Karen explains: “Different jewellers will use more functions than others. Our system is tailored in a package approach, so Clarity satisfies them all.” Its easy to use system benefits from annual software updates, with a multitude of new features added on to each update to make life easier for customers. In addition to those previously discussed, more facilities are available from the POS screen. Details of the article on-screen now include its reference number, as well as its barcode number. When searching for a product, a picture overview can be seen. A new ‘more’ button gives the facilities to print a credit note, see full daily sales statistics and make till settings. Many more supplier-detailed databases with images are available from Clarity & Success, making it easier for the jeweller to order and enter stock with just a few clicks. Clarity maintains and updates these databases on customers’ systems so that “jewellers can be jewellers, not data loaders.” “It remains a proud boast by Clarity that it continues to replace other jewellery-specific software systems,” says Karen. “The reason is that it is a very good, true Windows system; is kept fresh by annual updates; and Clarity makes sure [its] support services are first class. We like our

customers to be so pleased that they become our sales force.” Also staying ahead of the game is Pursuit Software, which specialises in management systems for the jewellery sector. Soon to be unveiling its new, online targeted sales generator, as well as other system enhancements, Pursuit has also revealed that it is close to launching an entirely new product, which it believes has the power to “fundamentally transform the way

Pursuit

in which retail jewellers organise their businesses.” The new package of enhancements expands on the functions built into its current sales, stock management and business analysis systems, used by a number of multiple-outlet and independent jewellery retailers. An area of focus concerns marketing campaigns and online sales functions, and Pursuit’s new features for targeted promotions and postal marketing are designed to “enhance campaign performance tracking and ease of linkage to prospect customer databases obtained from third party sources.” Other new facilities include additions to the range of overall and product-specific sales reports, stock and order monitoring functions, website sales and stock administration features. As part of its customer support services, the full range of developments is provided free of charge to existing users. Mike Burns, managing director of Pursuit Software, explains: “System development is a continuous process. We have an active user group and encourage

Retail management systems

customer feedback and suggestions. The latest series of enhancements are spearheaded by tools to help boost sales through targeted promotions, including customer mailings, with particular emphasis on campaign tracking and analysis. “We have the extra advantage of an extremely robust technology platform that has infinite capacity for growth. The new features and functions seamlessly integrate with any existing Pursuit system. They are quickly installed and ready to run, which means a system that’s 10 years old is as up-to-date and efficient as a totally new customer installation that might only have gone live for the first time yesterday. “The upgrades we periodically introduce are made available free to all users. The inherent flexibility of our technology equally applies to the ease with which special features can be tailored to the requirements of individual customers when they first change over to Pursuit.” The second quarter of 2012 will see Pursuit unveil its new, “groundbreaking innovation, calculated to

“Reluctance to change has been forcibly overcome by the imperatives imposed by the most fiercely competitive overall retail environment there has ever been” revolutionise the world of jewellery retailing.” Conceding that this is an extremely bold claim, Mike states: “Technology does not stand still, and the jewellery industry was one of the last to embrace computer systems. But it is catching up; reluctance to change has been forcibly overcome by the imperatives imposed by the most fiercely competitive overall retail environment there has ever been. When it comes to receptiveness to IT, owners and staff across the industry have undergone a culture shift. We believe the industry is ready to advance to another level – and Pursuit aims to be the software house that takes it there.

“Claiming that we are on the verge of launching a revolution may come across as overstatement, but we are not guilty of hyperbole. Make no mistake – what we will be revealing constitutes nothing less than a new business model for jewellery retailing.” All in all, implementing a new system can be a daunting – from the early research stages, right through to the application and training. However, it is arguably now a necessity for all retailers in order to fulfil their businesses’ potential, by keeping customers happy, optimising stock rotation and ultimately, increasing turnover and success. Supplier listing

Clarity & Success Software Ltd (Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand L60): 01785 255 557 or Magpie Europe Ltd (Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand R74): 0870 295 4054 or Pursuit Software Ltd (Spring Fair: Hall 17, Stand P60): 01603 263 800 or Vodat International: 0161 406 1820 or

Comment

High jinks on the high street This month, Michael Hoare takes the recently-released Portas Review as his focus for comment…

n unpredictable trading Christmas was preceded by the publication of the much anticipated Portas Review, as an “independent review into the future of our high streets,” and written by one of the UK’s most ‘visible’ observers of the retail scene – Mary Portas. It has generated reactions ranging from the banal and dismissive to the considered and the constructive. But now, with Christmas behind us, and the instant pundits having had their say, it is time to revisit the report’s recommendations and examine their value. Firstly, some politicians with headlines in mind have urged the Government to bring forward its response and take urgent action to counter the high street crisis, but I council caution. Knee jerk reactions are not the answer – we didn’t get into this mess overnight, and we won’t fix it with a magic bullet or quick fix. What we will find in Portas’s 50 pages is a prescription containing a bit of nasty tasting medicine for each of the vested interests locked into the never ending high street struggle – for example planners, politicians, landlords and retailers. As with all medicine, the trick is to cure the disease without killing the patient. Coming to the report as a slight sceptic, eager to find fault with her recommendations, I found my initial doubts allayed by detailed reading of the background material; a reluctance to apportion blame for the mess we’re in. While most of the comments I have read from the likes of the British Council of Shopping Centres, the Association of Convenience Stores, the British Property Federation, and CBRE (the commercial property and real estate services sector’s retail consultancy) broadly welcome the measures, others have proved less magnanimous. Stuart Rose, appearing happy with the status quo, said: “You can’t defy gravity,” and that Mary Portas is trying to push water uphill. Others were less temperate; Lord Wolfson, of Next, called the proposal to introduce exceptional signoff for out-of-town developments by the Secretary of State “just insane”. As I have previously opined in this column, my ‘wish list’ contains a restoration of the link between business rates and local services; a fair and transparent planning regime; and meaningful power in the hands of local government. The Portas Review has dealt with these and more. A robust ‘town centre first’ planning policy is to be welcomed, because, as it stands, about 80 per cent of future development is planned for out-of-town. Business rates are one of the biggest barriers to entry and growth on the high street, and therefore the

“ Tempting as it might be to try and dismiss the Portas Review as window dressing, it contains some joined-up thinking” Portas proposals are to be applauded; but the challenge will be for government and councils to find suitable funding models. Similarly, more free parking is a laudable aim, with plugging the gap in council finances the potential stumbling block! Addressing the restrictive aspects of the ‘Use Class’ system, making it easier to change the uses of high street properties, will free up space for more appropriate occupiers, including residential users; and may even help ease the housing shortage. Exploring disincentives to prevent landlords leaving units vacant seems an appropriate measure; and a stronger community voice in the planning system has to be a good thing. Overall, the Portas Review attempts to take an holistic view of the high street’s troubles; acknowledging its societal and community role in providing an expression of and focus for local identity, and not just its economic impact. As stated in the foreword, “this may sound hopelessly idealistic. But those who see high streets purely as a commercial retail mix need to think again.” Such sentiments appear to fit right in with the notional concept of ‘big society’ and as such should have resonance in Westminster right now. However, governments of every stripe display an alarming tendency to do either one of two things with ideas that challenge the orthodoxy: kick them into the long grass, or bury them in platitudes and forget them. And either way they end up gathering dust on a shelf somewhere! Or, they adopt the fun, sexy, headlinegrabbing short-term expedients and ignore the difficult and tedious bits – the ‘initiative lite’ approach – and the whole thing goes off half cocked! Personally, I believe this report deserves better. Tempting as it might be to try and dismiss the Portas Review as window dressing, it contains some joined-up thinking; involves all parties in the venture; and doesn’t succumb to the blame culture or populism. It won’t be easy to convince those obsessed with growth at all costs, but hey, just because a thing’s difficult, doesn’t make it impossible! The Portas Review is available in its entirety at: www.maryportas.com/news/2011/12/12/the-portas-review/

Anodised aluminium

®®Hazel Atkinson is a leading practitioner in the production of beautiful and very wearable anodised aluminium jewellery. Her award-winning, contemporary designs can be seen in over 200 shops and galleries in the UK alone, and are an excellent choice for buyers who are looking for hand-crafted, design-led product that is exclusively made in the UK. Information: 0115 958 6183 or www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk

The bold and the beautiful Intensely colourful and vibrant, anodised aluminium jewellery designs make excellent statement pieces and are works of art in their own right. Here are some of the collections that are currently available to stock… ±±Carole Allen has produced a range of jewellery that combines aluminium with sterling silver. The hand-painted and dyed anodised aluminium has been engraved and textured before being formed into cuffs, rings, pendants and earrings. As well as the bright, luminous colours, Carole has recently introduced a range of pewter and bronze coloured jewellery, which appeals to customers who prefer their jewellery to be understated. Each piece is unique and the artist takes her influence from the flowers and seashells of Cornwall, where she has her studio. Information: 01209 715 605, contact@caroleallenjewellery.co.uk or www.caroleallenjewellery.co.uk

Anodised aluminium

¯¯Penny Warren has been producing beautiful hand-made jewellery in anodised aluminium for over 10 years. A wide variety of colourful finishes available in nine different ranges offer customers a choice of bold, vibrant and complementary accessories, all finished to a high degree and at an affordable price. The recently introduced Polka Dot range (pictured) has proved extremely popular at retail events. By subscribing to her mailing list, buyers can also be kept up to date with exciting new additions to the catalogue planned for 2012.  Information: 01273 674 511, penny@pennywarrenjewellery.co.uk or www.pennywarrenjewellery.co.uk

Michael Peckitt has built a worldwide reputation for his “wearable art”. He supplies the Royal Academy of Arts, the Hayward Gallery, Aberdeen Art Gallery, the Philadelphia Museum of Art USA, the Miro Foundation Barcelona, the Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam, the National Museum of Wales and many others in the UK. “Anodised aluminium jewellery is my dynamic wearable,” he says. “I do not work to pattern; I am a fine artist.” On the homepage of Michael’s website, you will see some of the processes he uses to make the jewellery (click on WOW factory). He adds: “The bangles undergo a process that gives most of them a very special quality; if you look into the bangle beneath direct light you can see that I make this light refract within the surface of the piece, so that as the bangle is moved the light runs up and down inside it giving my jewellery a unique attractiveness.” Information: 01242 520 695 or www.michaelpeckitt.com

¯¯Alice Gow Designs’ bold jewellery features textured, coloured aluminium and silver. The anodised aluminium designs display simplicity and elegance and are grouped into three ranges: Revolve, Linear and Petaliform. Inspired by strong geometric forms – from a strip of colour, to interlocking concentric dishes, to more intricate pieces based on Islamic architectural motifs – Alice’s work combines a sense of playfulness with sophistication. A range of necklaces, earrings, brooches and rings all come in a wide spectrum of colours, from vibrant purples to icy blues. Information: 07747 035 865, alice@alicegowdesigns.com or www.alicegowdesigns.com

¯¯Midastouch Jewels has recently launched a new range of jewellery using anodised aluminium. The series features attractive line drawing designs on bangles, necklaces, earrings and rings. Some items have resulted from a collaboration between From Within ink drawing designer Sheba Plumpton, and Patsy Tyldesley, jewellery designermaker. Patsy offers limited runs of each design to help buyers looking for something individual. The company will be showing at the British Craft Trade Fair in April (stand 143). Information: 01492 583 646 or www.midas-jewels.co.uk

Designer

Affordable elegance

Louise Hoffman speaks with Kristina Charrington, to find out about the roots of her career; her work ethic; and her favourite aspects of jewellery design Did you always want to be a jewellery designer? How did you enter the career, and can you tell us about your progression since those early days?

I was inspired to be creative from the very earliest age, and encouraged by my artistic Danish mother. I think the cosmopolitan life I have led helped inspire me to design jewellery which is perhaps a little different from predictable styles, and which has proved popular with my international client base. Design is a subjective process and having such a wide artistic reference has made my outlook much more open. I look at a stone as a possibility – a way of turning something from the earth into something that speaks in a very personal and emotional way to the person who wears it, and loves it. I look at two strong women who have served as great influences on me: Joan Bernstein of Browns in South Molton Street, London, and Annabel Astor of Jones in Beauchamp Place, Knightsbridge. After school I worked in France, Spain and New York. On my return to England I worked with the aforementioned legend Joan Bernstein. Working at Browns gave me an understanding of the basics of retailing. It was not only a good eye and an unerring sense of style that counted, but also sound knowledge of buying, selling and stock control. Later, I started as a junior at Annabel Jones Jewellers, where I learned PR, technical work such as pearl stringing, and also selling and buying the exquisite jewellery. Many years later I was allowed to design pieces – it was a true apprenticeship, which is the best way to learn a craft. This was without doubt the perfect training for me, and was enhanced by several gemmology courses. Wonderful as it was working with Annabel, I still longed to be able to develop my own range of jewellery and create

individual pieces in my own distinctive style. It was a great challenge but I decided to start really small, reducing the risk so that I could concentrate my energies on the creative process. I began with a small amount of stock, and initially invited friends and family to come to shows – at first in my own home in west London. Word of mouth really is a very effective way of launching such a business and the client base steadily grew.

“I look at a stone as a possibility – a way of turning something from the earth into something that speaks in a very personal and emotional way to the person who wears it” I started attending trade shows and charity events, always within the correct target market for my jewellery, which was a useful way of getting direct feedback about my designs from potential customers (after all, friends and family are always kind!) and also of building my client list in a cost effective way. There is nothing like meeting your clients in person to start building a rapport, and so many people I met at shows went on to become regular and valued customers. I have always been a great believer in value for money. Pieces of jewellery should be worn, enjoyed and not left in the safe. I like re-designing estate pieces; taking something old which has been neglected and bringing it to life and daily use again. Fashion is so much more informal today that heirloom pieces are often just not worn. I am happy to remodel these pieces – this may involve breaking them down and, after extensive discussion with the client, using

Designer

Do you think your website, which allows customers to select the stones and metals used in most of the pieces, has been of direct benefit to your business?

The ‘KCollection’ website is my shop window and it has become a more and more useful way of communicating. Future and current clients enjoy browsing my website; I have all my current and past collections on the site, so there is a huge range of jewellery to study. I do sell a certain amount of stock direct from the website, which is easy for both my customer and myself. I still have a stand at several charity shows around the country, and I also print a colour brochure which has my latest ‘KCollection’ professionally photographed. From both the website and the mailing I get many calls for appointments to discuss my designs. The mailing list is kept up to date and is the backbone of my business; I have built this up over my 20 years of selling and I think it is extremely important.

What are your hopes and plans for the long-term future of your business?

One day, I would like to find someone who would like to take on ‘KCollection’ – someone who has the same ethos that I do. I have built a successful business and I know that it can continue succeeding. It is run with low overheads, and this has no doubt helped me weather past and present recessions. I have loved every minute of creating my business – I have worked with expert craftsmen; I have met fascinating people; and I have created affordable jewellery with elegance. It is a very rewarding way of life! the stones in a more contemporary way that will suit that individual client’s lifestyle. Special commissions are challenging but I enjoy doing them as my design skills are put to the test, and it is key to listen to what the client is looking for rather than following my own train of thought exclusively. I am lucky to have several excellent workshops which I work with closely, and they advise me on the intricacies of assembling items. Of course one of my favourite commissions is engagement rings; there is nothing quite like working with two very happy people in my studio, discussing their ideas for a piece that will be worn forever and is a symbol of their commitment.

Which materials do you most enjoy working with and why?

My jewellery is mostly made in nine carat gold with semiprecious stones. I also use sterling silver with 18 carat gold, which brightens up the silver. When my clients have loose stones I can set these in my ‘KC’ pieces, which is a cost effective way of using stones. Of the loose stones I have been given to work with, my favourite are perhaps some of the rubies and sapphires, rather than the large diamonds, as I feel they have more character.

I believe you have produced jewellery for some famous faces?

My special commission work has meant that I have met some famous people. These are my clients and they trust me so I am unable to name them – it would be a betrayal of the confidentiality which I value so highly. I learn a lot about my clients’ lives in order to design a piece that will fit into their lifestyle. I do get a thrill out of seeing my pieces photographed on my clients in magazines – there is no better endorsement as it proves how much they love and wear the jewellery. It is also a pleasant surprise to see pieces that I designed perhaps 20 years ago – vintage Kristina Charrington!

Affordable trends 1

Focus on

fashion jewellery

Naida Ally examines trends in fashion jewellery, and some of the collections that are currently available to stock

hile investing in precious metals and stones will always be à la mode, Ashish Kohli, managing director of Amber Jewellery, points out: “Women of all ages and styles are picking up pieces from affordable fashion ranges, as the selection is so strong that there’s something to suit them all. The quality has gone up while the price has reduced, so more and more people are choosing to accessorise with fashion jewellery.” 2012 has so far demonstrated that the popularity of fashion or costume jewellery is in no way waning, with whispers from the industry identifying a number of trends, including bright colours; bold, chunky items; blues and greens; beads; and textured materials. According to Amber Jewellery, fashion jewellery is set to take centre stage in 2012 as consumers tighten their purse strings and retailers stock fast-moving, cost-effective items in order to please them. High-end catwalk looks create the inspiration for accessory trends this spring/summer, so retailers looking to maximise sales should offer Louis Vuitton-inspired pastel toned beads and lace-effect pieces. Other popular looks derived from the runways include shoulder-length tassel earrings, feathereffect or bold statement necklaces and

oversized cocktail rings in coral and turquoise shades. Amber Jewellery has created its spring/summer range with these trends in mind and its latest collection combines designer-inspired pieces with affordable materials to “capture the vibe of expensive on-trend looks, while continuing to supply them to retailers at a fraction of the price.” The company will be showcasing its largest ever range at this year’s Spring Fair event, and the products can be ordered on the day as well as online and can be supplied quickly and efficiently to traders. Also present at this year’s Spring Fair is The Balagan Group, which will be showcasing its new Wrap and Stack bracelets. The fashion-focused, highquality branded jewellery company supplies the bracelets in single, triple or five wrap lengths (which also double as a necklace or even belt – if you’re on the skinny side!). Balagan offers pearl wraps in soft summer pastel colours; semi-precious stone wraps in bold atmospheric colours; and crystal wraps. The bracelets “are seriously comfortable, stylish and easy to wear, either singularly or stacked up for a statement look.” They are supplied with unique branded packaging and point of sale material.

Designer costume jewellery brand Bulatti, now in its 27th year, will be showcasing a new, “stunning range that will appeal to the more discerning customer who demands quality, style and original design in their choice of jewellery” at the Spring Fair. “With the enormous amount of fashion and costume jewellery flooding the market, it is refreshing to find a brand that offers a range that puts the emphasis on producing unique pieces of jewellery that will be worn and admired for years to come, rather than a cheaper, throwaway piece of jewellery that will only last for the season,” says Lorraine Thomas of Bulatti. Bulatti uses Swarovski crystals and Swarovski pearls alongside mother of pearl and gems and components from all over the world. By keeping the design and manufacture process in-house, Bulatti says “it ensures that quality is maintained.” Each piece is supplied with beautiful packaging, guarantee certificates and detachable extension chains, and is marked with a Bulatti tag. 1) Amber Jewellery (Spring Fair: Hall 19, Stand G46-H48): 0161 736 9966 2) The Balagan Group (Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand K28-L29): 0845 260 0925 3) Bulatti (Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand B04): 01245 360 949

SELLING

The circle of the sale This month Brad Huisken of IAS Training introduces a four-phase concept, which acts as the foundation on which to build an understanding of specific sales techniques

Sa lespeople n eed to know t h a t there a re s p e ci fi c i ssu es t ha t mu s t b e a d dres sed, a n d there i s a n a r t a nd s c i ence to the s e l l in g proces s

here are certain practical steps, which a salesperson must follow, in order to maximise every selling opportunity. In future articles I will detail more specifically the exact strategies and techniques that a professional jewellery salesperson must introduce into his or her sales presentations. However, to begin with, I believe salespeople need to know that there are specific issues that must be addressed, and there is an art and science to the selling process. The art and science of selling has been misconstrued for years, encouraging people to believe that selling is the act of forcing things on people that they don’t necessarily want or need. This is false. As a result of your sales presentation, contrary to what others may tell you, you want the customer to say the three magic words: “I’ll take it.” The emphasis shouldn’t and can’t be placed on the actual ‘closing of the sale’ or ‘closing techniques’. It is far less pushy and aggressive, and certainly more customer service driven, when a salesperson can get the customer to say, through an excellent presentation: “I’ll take it.” It is unfortunate that there are more than just a few of the overly aggressive, unprofessional salespeople left in the world. We are in the jewellery business to develop working relationships that will serve us, both now and well into the future. The days of the jewellery sales clerk are dead and gone – we need to be professional salespeople in the business of delivering jewellery to the public, demonstrating value and integrity in order to gain their trust. In each and every selling situation, a professional salesperson is, or should be, working to develop an ‘everybody wins’ environment. When a customer comes into a jewellery store, they are not necessarily looking for jewellery; they are looking for a place and a

person from which to buy the jewellery. There are a multitude of places where the customer can buy jewellery. The customer can buy from a catalogue, the internet, television shopping channels, department stores, chain stores, speciality jewellery stores, and independents. The only way to set each company apart from the rest is through improved customer-driven strategies and techniques. I contend that if I was to stand outside of any jewellery store and ask a customer: “Why do you buy from this particular store?” and their answer is: “Because of the merchandise,” then that store is in trouble. Should the customer respond: “Because of the people that work in the store,” then that particular store is going to have a very long and successful existence. The strategies and techniques that we will discuss in future articles, if put to use, will make your staff true, professional salespeople. My definition of a true sales professional is: “One that causes the exchange of ownership of a product or service based on the prospect’s wants and needs, with integrity!” In an emotionally-driven industry such as jewellery, the name of the game is to get your prospects to talk to you, trust you, and confide in you their wants, needs and desires. Then it is up to you to demonstrate with integrity the very best products or services to fit their wants, needs and desires. Proceeding in the presentation prior to finding out this important information is where many fall back on the pushy and aggressive techniques. A professional knows that he or she needs to build a strong client base of repeat and referral customers. None of us can survive and reach higher levels of achievement with a continually shifting group of all-new prospects. The following four phases are what I call, ‘the circle of the sale’. Future articles will detail the specific techniques. Keep in

SELLING

mind: they are all user-friendly and geared toward providing outstanding customer service.

The circle of the sale 1. Initial contact 2. Needs assessment 3. Demonstrating 4. Closing the sale and adding on Imagine these four segments being in a circle – the circle of the sale has no beginning and no true end. As a sales professional you can’t dictate the selling process – the customer does! Every customer is different. Should a customer come into the store and walk up to the display case and state: “That piece is gorgeous. Can I look at it?” you certainly wouldn’t want to try starting with small talk; you would want to show the merchandise. In this case, you would be starting in the ‘demonstrating’ step. In another situation, a lady walks into the store and says: “My sister was here last week and bought the most incredible pair of earrings

I have ever seen.” In this situation, I would start in ‘closing’, because trust and value have already been established – trust is the sister and the value is the incredible earrings. I would start the selling process by saying: “Would you like a pair just like them?” She may answer “yes” or “no, I want some even bigger.” In this situation, you have already closed the sale; you are simply determining the details of the purchase. In either case, you will still need to ask questions to find out some information that will allow you to have a meaningful, non-business conversation with the customer. Ask questions to determine more specifically the emotional reason behind the purchase; what the appropriate add-on items may be; and so on. The name of the game today is different than in the near past; the industry has changed and will continue to change. I can assure you that a relationship selling process is what the customer wants, needs, and is hoping for. Customer loyalty isn’t dead; your ability to build a relationship will prove it time and time again.

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker Brad Huisken is president of IAS Training. He authored the book and his new book He developed the PMSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSMC Professional Sales Management Course, the Train the Trainer Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers. He and his staff of trained professionals also conduct in-house training and consulting all over the world on an ongoing basis. In addition he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information on IAS Training, contact IAS Training on 001 303 936 9353, or

How do they do that?

Colour and fibre testing

Tatiana Abbey and Dr Ben Halmshaw – two of the expert chemists working for the Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay Office – explain how they test for colour fastness and fibre composition

ontinuing high precious metal prices and the recent success of non-precious jewellery brands have led many traditional fine jewellers to stock ranges of costume jewellery that they would not have contemplated a decade ago. While the selling and promotion of such products is second nature, retailers need to be aware of the raft of health and product safety requirements associated with this sector. EU legislation has proliferated in the past five years, placing more demands on the costume jewellery and fashion accessory supply chain. The Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay Office has developed its portfolio accordingly and now offers a range of tests to ensure that non-precious-metal jewellery and accessories are safe, fit for purpose and compliant with EU legislation. This affects fabrics and leather as well as those relating to metals.

Colour fastness

A certain level of colour fastness is an obvious requirement for a product to be fit for purpose, as drastic colour loss during wearing or washing is clearly unacceptable and will lead to customer dissatisfaction. However, leaching of dyes or migration of pigments can also cause health problems, so although there are no specific regulatory tests for colour fastness, there is a product safety aspect to this sector of testing. The most commonly applied colour fastness tests for textiles simulate wear and use conditions and subject the article to the effects of washing, rubbing, perspiration and saliva (required for children’s items). The Laboratory offers a range of UKAS accredited tests, in accordance with international ISO standard ISO 105, to assess colour fastness. These can be loosely grouped as subjecting articles to wet and dry rub, perspiration and water. Wet and dry rub tests replicate the impact of fabric or leather rubbing against other fabrics in a wet or dry condition. The Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay Office has also developed a unique test based on the same ISO standard to assess dyed beads. The perspiration test checks the level of colour released as a result of perspiration, while the freshwater and seawater tests check for colour released by their respective substances. The procedures required by ISO 105 are straightforward, but control and

Focus on the expertS Dr Ben Halmshaw BSc

Dr Halmshaw has a degree in chemistry and a PhD in colour and polymer chemistry. He has invaluable experience after 12 years’ involvement in the research, development, testing and analysis of chemicals and products for the textile, leather and paper industries.

Tatiana Abbey

Tatiana Abbey is a professionally qualified chemist with almost 20 years’ experience in the chemical, cosmetic and textile industries. Her experience focuses on the chemical testing of textile materials for qualitative and quantitative analysis of fibres, dyes and finishes.

careful application of the method are crucial for an accurate, consistent result, and as ever the interpretation of the final outcome requires experience and expertise. The majority of the tests require that the test samples are first ‘conditioned’ at a set temperature and humidity for a specific time period, before undergoing clearly defined steps. For example, after conditioning, wet rub test samples have to be weighed and then soaked in de-ionised water until they achieve 95 to 100 per cent take-up and weigh 1.9 to 2 times their original weight. The sample is then attached

EU legislation has proliferated in the past five years, placing more demands on the costume jewellery and fashion accessory supply chain

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. For more information visit



How do they do that?

A certain level of colour fastness is an obvious requirement for a product to be fit for purpose… however, leaching of dyes or migration of pigments can also cause health problems to a piece of equipment known as a crock meter, which automatically passes the samples backwards and forwards across a second piece of fabric, using controlled pressure and speed. The passing will be done across warp and weft a set number of times before the sample is removed, dried and conditioned for a further four hours. The second piece of fabric is then assessed for evidence of colour transfer. A similarly controlled procedure is followed for water and perspiration tests and then the sample is checked against the original to assess any loss of colour. Assessing colour is a highly skilled task that is learned by experience, but there are certain parameters that are essential. The natural disposition of the expert to assess colour is fundamental. One in 12 males and one in 250 females are ‘colour defective’ – ie are not able to distinguish between all colours clearly and consistently. Colour vision is affected by age, stress, medication, prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light and conditions such as diabetes. Other factors which affect the way humans see colours include the light source and level, surrounding colours and viewing geometry – ie the angle between the line of vision and the article to be inspected. It is therefore important that the assessment of the sample is done under controlled criteria, usually delivered by a specialised lighting cabinet where the primary and secondary light source and viewing geometry are fixed. Samples need to be presented at the same orientation, side by side, and the assessor should wear a white lab coat to maintain a constant standard. Colours are described according to their ‘hue, value and chroma’, and it is important that these descriptors are clearly defined in order to communicate results consistently. Again, the judgement of the expert is paramount.

Fibre composition

Another aspect is fibre composition. The Textile Products Regulation 1986 requires most textile products that are offered at any level of the supply chain in the UK to carry an indication of the fibres they contain. These include single textile fibres such as polyester, cotton or wool etc, and their blends. It is important at this point to define what constitutes a textile product so as to determine whether the regulation is applicable: • Raw, semi-worked or made-up products, which are exclusively composed of textile fibres.

• Products containing at least 80 per cent by weight of textile fibres. • Textile parts of furniture, umbrellas, sunshades, carpets, mattresses, camping goods, warm linings of footwear, gloves, mittens (provided such parts and linings contain not less than 80 per cent by weight of textile fibres). • Textiles incorporated in, and forming an integral part of, other products where the textile parts are specified. The accuracy of this analysis is imperative as mislabelling or creating a false description of the textile may mean the customer is overpaying, or in the case of those with allergies to certain fibres, subjecting themselves to a possible health hazard. Fibre composition is a lengthy procedure, composed of physical, chemical and microscopic techniques. Fibres may be examined in raw fibre form or taken from yarn or fabric. The identification of fibres is carried out using a combination of microscopical examination, solubility in solvents, burning characteristics, and Micro-Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy. Due to the complexity of some textile products made from different fibre mixtures and the great number of natural and man-made fibres which have unique characteristics, there are several methods employed to cover this analysis. The Directive 96/73/EC amended by Directives 2006/2/EC, 2007/4/EC and 2009/122/ EC is intended to be the standard method for the quantitative analysis of binary textile fibre mixtures. The Directive 73/44/EEC is intended to be the standard method for the quantitative analysis of ternary mixtures. There are however some exemptions to the regulations, such as textile products intended for export to any destination other than a member state, and certain products do not require to be individually marked – for example, a pack of handkerchiefs requires only a single indication giving fibre content details. In addition to this, some textile products are generally exempt from compulsory labelling or marking.

If you want to know more about the legislation affecting costume jewellery and fashion accessories, don’t miss the Birmingham Assay Office seminar at the Jewellery Show at the NEC. Chief executive Michael Allchin will deliver a broad overview of relevant regulations and how to ensure you comply. The seminar takes place in Hall 20 on Tuesday 7 February at 3.30pm,

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Industry

Online opportunities Syreeta Tranfield speaks to Eddie Prentice about the function of websites as ‘shop windows’, which are often the first place consumers visit when trying to find out about products and services

nline jewellery retailing has really taken off – look at the success of sites such as www.astleyclarke.com – and even for the most traditional retailers, an online presence can have a fantastic effect on in-store sales. Eddie Prentice, of digital marketing agency Adaptive, regularly provides IJL seminars which are always packed, showing there is a definite thirst for online information. But who can benefit the most from having a presence online, and where do you start? I put some questions to Eddie to find out his thoughts…

Why should jewellery businesses focus on online strategies?

Retailers need to be seen where their customers are looking. The high street is still very important, but most purchases – whether bought on or offline – now start with an online search. This is not just about transacting online, it’s about being visible in search engines, advertising products you sell and then building confidence in your brand once shoppers arrive at your site. Price is important, but trust in the jewellery sector is critical. A poor website or poor online marketing can lose you sales.

Which types of company – in particular jewellery businesses – are likely to be successful online, and why is this? Bigger players do well because they have a wider choice of product and, sometimes, better pricing or offers. This is the same in most markets – not just jewellery. There is room for smaller retailers, manufacturers or designers who build up a loyal following. The companies that succeed will get the basics right. It’s about identifying who your target consumer is and offering jewellery that the consumer wants to wear. What has changed online is that you need to be able to gain visibility; blogging, tweeting and using Facebook will give a distinct advantage.

What are your top tips for building a successful ecommerce website?

Understand one thing – there are no prizes for being different in terms of page layouts and navigational structure. Certain things just work and some things just don’t. The big retailers like John Lewis are pretty good at this, so look at what they’re doing and learn. The first thing to remember is that not everyone is ready to buy; if a consumer has found your site on Google they are probably visiting at least three

or four other sites and they may just be doing a bit of window shopping. So one of the conversion goals of your website should be to capture data, not just focus on sales. Email remains one of the most successful marketing tools available to an ecommerce business, so build up your lists. For the future, integrating social networking into ecommerce is becoming critical – that may just be reviews on your site or inviting people to share their jewellery purchase with friends on Facebook. The key message today is that the views of your peers are more valued than the marketing message of the brand. Good product photography is an absolute must, as is smart imaging (zoom or enlarge). If you can justify the cost, lifestyle shots also make a difference. Trust is critical in jewellery, so ‘trust icons’ like Verisign, or being a member of a trade association or local institution carry weight, as does the endorsement of celebrities or authority figures. Lots of detail in product descriptions also builds confidence. Make it easy for your consumer to get through the purchasing process. It’s amazing how many poor sites there are out there. Persuasive copy with colour contrasted action buttons positioned in the natural eyepath help to reduce site abandonment.

What would work well for a jewellery retailer or designer in terms of a social media strategy?

To an extent it depends on your target audience demographics. Not everyone’s customers are going to be spending time tweeting or on Facebook. But one thing every online retailer should have is a blog. The main message I would get across is to be yourself – if you don’t come across as authentic it could actually damage your cause. Facebook is becoming an increasingly important market for retailers, so think about creating a customised look with tabs for competitions or special events. Promotions and competitions to generate ‘Likes’ are seen by many as a stepping stone to expanding your email address list and driving traffic to your website. Twitter is a bit of a phenomenon and can be used to expand awareness and aid customer service. As with everything in social media, be patient with this and be yourself. Start by following those you relate to and then start to share interesting content. If you persist in the right way it creates a momentum of its own.

There will be more information at IJL this year on multimedia marketing and online retailing. You can also follow developments at , , and

Industry Data

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: November 2011

Metal Prices £/Unit

Nov 11

Dec 11

Jan 12

% Change

In November 2011, compared to the same month in 2010, all retail sales volumes increased by 0.7 per cent, with sales values increasing by 4.6 per cent. Across the same period, prices are estimated to have increased by 3.6 per cent. In comparison to October 2011, retail sales volumes in November 2011 decreased by 0.4 per cent and sales values decreased by 0.1 per cent. Non-store retailing sales volumes increased in November 2011 compared to November 2010 by 18.9 per cent. The predominantly food and predominantly non-food sectors saw sales volumes decrease by 0.6 and 0.7 per cent respectively. Non-seasonally adjusted volume data displayed that small stores provided the most upward pressure, witnessing an increase of 4.5 per cent, whereas large stores decreased by 0.1 per cent over the same period. Non-seasonally adjusted value data demonstrated that small stores value sales grew by 7.8 per cent, while large stores increased by 3.6 per cent. The average weekly spend on online retailing has increased to £787.9 million, up from £546.4 million in October. In November 2011 an estimated £29.1 billion was spent in the retail sector, compared to £26.9 billion in October 2011 and £27.8 billion in November 2010. The monthly all retail sales value and volume index numbers for the November trading periods in the years 2006 to 2011 (see graph below), shows the volume series as reasonably flat, with the value series increasing from 2009, Source: ONS partly attributed to estimated price increases.

Sterling Silver £/Kg

633.89

619.92

564.70

Minus 9%

Gold £/g

35.34

35.65

33.67

Minus 6%

Palladium £/g

13.14

13.33

13.35

No Change

Platinum £/g

32.68

31.52

29.86

-5%

Rhodium £/g

33.75

32.92

28.56

-13%

Iridium £/g

21.98

22.33

22.64

Plus 1%

Ruthenium £/g

2.63

2.43

2.30

Minus 5%

Scrap Metal £/Unit

Nov 11

Dec 11

Jan 12

% Change

Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg

595.17

582.06

530.21

Minus 9%

9ct Gold Scrap £/g

12.79

12.90

12.18

Minus 6%

14ct Gold Scrap £/g

19.95

20.13

19.01

Minus 6%

18ct Gold Scrap £/g

25.57

25.80

24.37

Minus 6%

22ct Gold Scrap £/g

31.24

31.52

29.76

Minus 6%

Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g

26.39

25.45

24.11

Minus 5%

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,796

1,168

1,239

898

790

0.10 Carat

1,725

1,100

1,663

985

739

0.25 Carat

2,787

1,540

2,329

1,309

893

0.50 Carat

8,335

3,423

4,837

2,977

2,530

0.75 Carat

9,341

5,605

6,108

4,168

3,305

1.00 Carat

16,491

8,730

11,000

7,067

4,573

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 3rd January 2012 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5587

Industry Data

Hallmark figures - Dec 2011

Hallmark figures - Quarter 4 2011

Month Dec 10

Month Dec 11

Variance

707 766 720,399 36 721,908

1,352 1,378 502,571 43 505,344

645 612 -217,828 7 -216,564

91.2 79.9 -30.2 19.4 -30

13 1 19,268 74,000 14,291 351,188 458,761

65 3 18,368 64,253 5,537 282,141 370,367

52 2 -900 -9,747 -8,754 -69,047 -88,394

400 200 -4.7 -13.2 -61.3 -19.7 -19.3

13 15,063 7 2 15,085

5 14,146 11 4 14,166

-8 -917 4 2 -919

-61.5 -6.1 57.1 100 -6.1

0 5,534 287 5,821

-9 965 180 1,136

-100 21.1 168.2 24.2

895,698

-304,741

-25.4

Silver 958 925 800 Gold

999 958 925 800

3,627 5,734 2,638,100 109 2,647,570

4,631 1,836 1,671,634 72 1,678,173

1,004 -3,898 -966,466 -37 -969,397

27.7 -68 -36.6 -33.9 -36.6

51 2 82,003 316,889 79,737 1,577,631 2,056,313

96 11 67,351 238,977 18,778 987,678 1,312,891

45 9 -14,652 -77,912 -60,959 -589,953 -743,422

88.2 450 -17.9 -24.6 -76.5 -37.4 -36.2

83 61,850 78 30 62,041

14 53,934 67 6 54,021

-69 -7,916 -11 -24 -8,020

-83.1 -12.8 -14.1 -80 -12.9

0 16,662 2,329 18,991

-13 -3,949 2,170 -1,792

-100 -19.2 1,364.8 -8.6

3,064,076

-1,722,631

-36

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375

Platinum

999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

9 4,569 107 4,685 1,200,439

Hallmarking volumes have continued to feel the effect of the continuing high precious metal prices throughout 2011. The total number of units hallmarked by the four UK assay offices in the year totalled 10,681,714 compared to 14,841,840 in 2010, a reduction of 26.8 per cent. All categories of metal have been affected, with gold down 24.1 per cent, silver down 29.4 per cent, platinum down 10.3 per cent and palladium down 6.7 per cent. For the third year running more silver articles were hallmarked than gold, but the increase in the price of silver throughout 2011 has also taken its toll on the number of silver units being submitted for hallmarking. The shift within the jewellery industry towards fashion branded products, many containing little if any precious metal, and more silver jewellery being made under the hallmarking weight of 7.78 grams has also affected the total number of units being handled by the UK assay offices. Source: Birmingham Assay Office

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Hallmark figures - Annual 2011 Year Dec 10

Year Dec 11

Variance

9,914 17,666 8,572,076 1,445 8,601,101

15,844 6,288 6,048,635 285 6,071,052

5,930 -11,378 -2,523,441 -1,160 -2,530,049

59.8 -64.4 -29.4 -80.3 -29.4

475 24 345,462 1,064,203 250,026 4,200,147 5,860,337

630 47 314,456 869,397 115,799 3,145,104 4,445,433

155 23 -31,006 -194,806 -134,227 -1,055,043 -1,414,904

32.6 95.8 -9 -18.3 -53.7 -25.1 -24.1

482 265,469 275 64 266,290

122 238,452 158 38 238,770

-360 -27,017 -117 -26 -27,520

-74.7 -10.2 -42.5 -40.6 -10.3

295 113,483 334 114,112

509 98,650 7,300 106,459

214 -14,833 6,966 -7,653

72.5 -13.1 2,085.6 -6.7

14,841,840

10,861,714

-3,980,126

-26.8

Silver 999 958 925 800 Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum 999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 500

Stay informed... for daily metal prices

13 20,611 159 20,783 4,786,707

Total

950

Visit

Variance

Silver 999

Total

Quarter Dec 10 Quarter Dec 11

Total

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BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

CAD/CAM

Totally Wholesale Burhouse Beads is the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest wholesale supplier of gemstones, jewellery findings and components. Specialising in fresh water pearls and high quality bead strings. We also offer a full range of associated hardware and tools.

Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696 Email: sales@burhousebeads.com

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“Can you afford to leave one out of your mailing?” RESTRINGING

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Repair Services SIGNET RINGS

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bqw rolex specialist

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Your Views

Voice

onthe

highstreet

Shaun Bell of Joshua James Jewellery, Hessle, East Yorkshire

How did you get into the jewellery business?

I worked in the jewellery industry for six years prior to launching Joshua James Jewellery, but I originally trained as an accountant. I knew from leaving school that I wanted to work for myself, which is why I decided to study accountancy. When the opportunity arose to do something I was passionate about, the financial background helped me greatly in running my own business.

How many people work in your store?

Joshua James now employs 12 people, including my parents!

What’s the price range of the items you sell?

We sell a very wide range of high fashion designer jewellery, which retails anywhere from £10 to £10,000.

Do you have an online presence?

The opening of the store in Hessle and the launch of www.joshuajamesjewellery.co.uk happened on the same day. The store was opened in Hessle because there was little competition for the brands I wanted to sell. Opening in Hessle has allowed us to have the pick of the brands and was a strategic move to develop the brands we could sell online. This was followed by www.jjweddingrings.co.uk in mid-2010, and the most recent addition, www.watchdepot.co.uk, was launched in May. The Watch Depot is probably the area with the biggest growth at the moment. We have 28 brands there, and this is set to rise to 100 by the end of next year.

What sector of the jewellery market are you most passionate about and why?

I’m genuinely passionate about all of it, which I think you have to be if you are to enjoy any success. That’s why we put in so many hours – the other week I came in on Monday morning and didn’t go home until Tuesday evening! I guess the thing that really motivates me is keeping ahead of the current trends and spotting what people are wearing. The popularity of beads and charms at the moment is a great example; it has sheltered a lot of jewellery retailers from the effects of the recession.

What is selling well at the moment?

We are official stockists of Nomination jewellery, platinum stockists of the entire Trollbeads collection and official UK stockists of the full collection of Thomas Sabo jewellery and charms. These always perform well. In addition, we’ve brought in a host of pieces from Chamilia, which have been particularly popular thanks to their distinctive and adaptable styles. We have a number of Tresor Paris pieces, including crystal bracelets and rings in a variety of colours, along with a collection of crystal and magnetite necklaces. These are firm favourites among X Factor stars and have made a dramatic early impact. In fact, the first order sold out within four days! The wristwatch is enjoying something of a renaissance and we’ve certainly benefitted from that both in our store and online. Michael Kors is very big, providing a fresh challenge to the likes of Diesel and DKNY, while there is a much more widespread appeal for the elegance, class and technical perfection of a Skagen, Dreyfuss or Rotary.

How has the industry changed since you started out?

The charm phenomenon has been hugely significant, which is indicative of an increased dependency on branding. The other major development has been the inevitable growth of the online store.

What, in your opinion, is the main problem faced by jewellery retailers today?

Themselves! There is a determined and inexplicable reticence, in some quarters, to embrace the new technology and trends that are revolutionising our industry. The fact that we happen to be in the midst of a long-term economic downturn makes such resistance even more baffling. For us, 2012 is shaping up to be an exciting year. We’re currently working on the re-design of the Joshua James website and mobile site, which will be launched shortly, and we’re beginning a complete refit of our store in the coming months. In general, we’ll be looking to increase our portfolio and push brand awareness. We certainly don’t want to modify our buying in a way that would restrict our growth and development.