gold and silver by jakov đinđić

Elizabete Kotromanić 11/1 HR - 23000 Zadar tel: 385(23) 200 300 fax: 385 (23) 200 333 info@marinadalmacija.hr

VHF 17 44˚03ʹ N 15˚ 18ʹ E

SV.MIHOVIL - ISPOVJEDAONICA GRADA CITY CONFESSIONAL

TURISTIČKO DRUŠTVO LIBURNIJA LIBURNIJA TOURISM SOCIETY

ZADARSKO LJETO ZADAR SUMMER

NICK COLGAN- PRVI “VRTLAR” GARDENA NICK COLGAN - THE FIRST “GARDENER OF THE GARDEN

NOĆ PUNOG MISECA NIGHT OF THE FULL MOON

MILENIJSKI SKOK MILLENNIUM JUMP

PLAŽA SAHARUN BEACH SAHARUN

KUPUJEM DAKLE JESAM I SHOP THEREFORE I AM

VIR OTOK S OTOČIĆEM AN ISLAND WITH ISLANDS

INTERVIEW S NAČELNIKOM OPĆINE VIR KRISTIJANOM KAPOVIĆEM Interview with Vir’s Municipality Chief - Kristijan Kapović

KOLOVOZ/AUGUST 2009

SADRŽAJ

Table of CONTENTS

Broj 12 - No. 12 Kolovoz/August 2009. Nakladnik / Publisher BAŠTINA Agencija za izdavaštvo i distribuciju tiska Glavni urednik / Editor - in - chief Igor Gluić Pomoćnik glavnog urednika / Editor - in - chief assistant Lili Lokin Grafički urednik / Graphic designer Igor Gluić Fotografije / Photography Jakov Đinđić Velid Jakupović Saša Gospić Mladen Mržljaković - Mrlja Arhiv Millennium jump Agencija BAŠTINA Grafičko oblikovanje / Graphic Design INFOGRAFIKA Prijelom / Layout Jakov Đinđić Novinari i suradnici / Journalists and contributors Ante Perković Ivo Petricioli Lili Lokin Juraj Gracin Marketing Kristijan Kotlar Vlatko Perić Prevoditelj / Translator Ivo Milin Distribucija / Distribution TISAK Tisak / Print AKD Zagreb ISSN 1646-7695 Kontakt / Contact Tel / Fax: ++385 23 319 616 E-mail: zlatoisrebro@zlatoisrebro.hr Glavni urednik / Editor - in - chief Mob: ++385 98 273 706 E-mail: urednik@zlatoisrebro.hr Marketing Mob: ++ 385 91 313 2188 E-mail: marketing@zlatoisrebro.hr Tiskano na papiru Garda Cover HI-FI

DOBRODOŠLI D

WELCOME U

o jučer su nam turisti bili samo žilavi i suhonjavi gosti, ljudi izbrazdanih lica, nalik na pejzaže iz kojih su dolazili... Danas nas oblijeću superluksuzne jahte svjetskih probisvjeta kojima je život na ruletu udijelio bogatstvo. Kada su nam blizu vjerujemo kako smo i mi blizu sličnom blagostanju, pa dijeli nas jedne od drugih svega oplata moćnog broda, suncobrani u hotelskim koktelima kojima ne znamo ni ime, i, naravno, par obrijanih lobanja s tamnim naočalima na licu. ... Kada imate novac brinete globalne probleme: suosjećate sa sirotinjom, s globalnim zatopljenjem, muči vas ozon i količina freona u zraku. Nervoznim vas čine bunde od životinjske kože, brine vas količina ugljičnog dioksida iznad Amazone, skakavaci u Kini, El Ninjo na Ekvatoru, kitovi u Japanskom moru, Golfska struja, ledenjaci koji nestaju… Brineći se vi putujete, upoznajete svijet i ljude. Vašim postojanjem i znanost ima razlog da postoji, kultura dobija smisao, umjetnost novac… Zbog vas se prave hoteli, zidaju dvorci, oslikavaju palače… Zbog vas postoji gastronomija i kulinarstvo, zbog vas se tiskaju luksuzne knjige, proizvode parfemi, kreira odjeća, zbog vas se izrađuju skupe kamere i fotoaparati, zbog vas se dizajnira pokućstvo, zbog vas se prozvode avioni, supersonični vlakovi, jahte i luksuzni automobili… Vi ste ti koji mjenjate svijet, čineći ga boljim ili lošijim, ili naprosto, ništa se ne pitajući, uživate u njemu. Vi ste predstavnici onih koji se kunu da ne postoji ljepši zagrljaj od vina i parfema. Kada nemate novca vi ste samo sjena na asfaltu, samo broj pri popisu pučanstva. Zbog vas se raspisuju izbori i množe partije i stranke. U vaše se ime vode ratovi, rađaju velike vođe, zbog vas se osnivaju sindikati, tvornice jeftine robe, državna televizija… Makar ste sjena bez važnosti, uvijek je onih koji se i vama udvaraju, zbog kojih vam se čini da ste barem ponekad važni. Udvaraju vam se političari, vlasnici velikih robnih lanaca, novinski magnati, proizvođači jeftine plastike, bolnice i sirotišta… Zbog vas postoje trgovački predstavnici za jeftine lonce, mrežni marketing, lanci sreće, državna lutrija, kladionice, glazbena estrada, gostione s narodnom muzikom i jakim pićima. Zbog vas su izmislili JMBG i OIB. Da niste bez važnosti uvjeravaju vas i vaši najmiliji svakoga jutra dok pognutih leđa krećete na posao u još jedan dan borbe za opstanak, da zaradite i sebi i njima za kruh, barem do večeri. Samo oni u vama vide Boga, Hranitelja i Spasitelja. Ako vam se za života posrećilo, svoju teško stečenu imovinu lukavo ste pretvorili u trajnu vrijednost, i u vitrini kuhinje od panela čuvate za potomke lonce od Zeptera kao svoju jedinu, teškom mukom otplaćenu ostavštinu. Još jedno ljeto, u kojem su uživali i jedni i drugi, polako curi svom kraju. Oni koji imaju traže na karti novu destinaciju, oni koji nemaju veselo zbrajaju sitniš.

ntil yesterday tourists to us were just resistant and meager guests, people with furrowed faces, resembling the landscapes from which they came. Today, super luxurious yachts jet around us, on them international vagabonds whose roulette table lives bestowed them wealth. When they are near us we believe that even we are close to such prosperity, dividing us are just a few payments for a powerful boat, little umbrellas in hotel cocktails of which we don’t even know the name, and, of course, a couple of shaved heads with dark sunglasses on their faces. When you have money you care about global problems: you sympathize with the poor, global warming, the ozone layer and amounts of freon in the air bother you. Leather coats make you nervous, the amount of carbon dioxide over the Amazon River worries you, or locusts in China, El Nińo near the equator, whales in Japanese waters, the Gulf Stream and disappearing icebergs... Worrisome, you begin to travel, getting to know the world and new people. Your being and intellect has a reason for existing, culture now has a purpose, art, money. Because of you hotels are built, mansions are constructed, palaces are painted. Gastronomy and cuisine exists because of you, fancy books are printed for you, clothes and perfume produced just for you, expensive cameras and video cameras designed for you, furniture designed for you, because of you airplanes, supersonic trains, yachts and luxurious cars are produced. You are the one that changes the world, for the better or for the worse, or simply, with no questions asked, you just enjoy it. You are the spokesperson for those that believe there is no greater embrace than that of wine and perfume. When you don’t have money you are but a shadow on the asphalt, just a number in the overall census. Because of you elections are announced and political parties multiply. In your name wars are fought, great leaders are born, because of you labor unions are created, as are factories with cheap goods, state television. At least you are a shadow of no importance, as there are always those that want to court you, and because of this at times you feel like you are of importance. You are wooed by politicians, owners of chain stores, media magnates, manufacturers of cheap plastic, hospitals and orphanages. You are responsible for the existence of commercial representatives of cheap pots and pans, network marketing, chain letters, state lotteries, betting shops, the musical stage, restaurants with folk music and strong booze. Because of you they invented personal id’s and social security numbers. To prove that you really are of value they convince you and your loved ones every morning, with your bent and aching backs, to get to work for another daily battle of survival, to earn enough to buy bread for them and yourself, to last at least until nightfall. Only in you do they see God, a breadwinner and saviour. If life bestows luck upon you, your hard earned assets can be transformed into something of lasting value, and in your paneled kitchen cupboards you safeguard Zepter brand pots and pans for your descendents as your only, hard earned and paid off legacy. One more summer, in which both of you enjoyed yourselves, is coming to a close. Those that have are looking for a new destination on their maps, and for those that don’t – they rejoice counting loose change.

SV. MIHOVIL ISPOVJEDAONICA GRADA CITY CONFESSIONAL Piše / Text by ANTE PERKOVIĆ Fotografije / Photos by JAKOV ĐINĐIĆ ZLATO I SREBRO

edan od znamenita četiri zadarska kantuna drži crkva, vjerojatno još od ranokršćanskih vremena. Od prvog spominjanja, 1139., nosi ime Sv. Mihovila i to skoro da je jedino što se nije promijenilo. Mijenjala se crkva - u 14. stoljeću ju je iz romaničke u gotičku pregradio majstor Pavao iz Sulmone, a pet stoljeća kasnije prošla je kroz još jednu značajnu dogradnju. Bila je jedna od šest zbornih gradskih crkava, župna crkva do izgradnje Sv. Šime, sjedište brojnih bratovština... Mijenjao se i grad, često naglo i dramatično, kako se već ruža vjetrova povijesti tog časa namjestila. Tako je, prije 202 godine, Sv. Mihovil ponuđen franjevcima trećoredcima, čiji je prijašnji samostan u gradu ukinut. Bila je to jedna od onih ‘uzmi ili ostavi’ ponuda s okusom ultimatuma, pa je jedan pustinjački, pokornički red, nemajući izbora, pronašao dom u samom srcu grada. Ušiven u gusto tkivo stambenih zgrada na hrptu Poluotoka, s pročeljem koje je nemoguće sagledati iz mreže uskih ulica, Mihovil je svoju prisutnost diskretno utemeljio na djelima, a ne na liku. Ne znam puno crkava na čijem dovratku gosti iz kafića preko puta, u nedostatku slobodnih stolova, mirno, nikom ne smetajući ispijaju kavu. A pritom ne govorimo o nekoj zapuštenoj sakralnoj kulisi, već o djelatnom, živom samostanu uvijek otvorenih vrata, s tri mise dnevno i velikim protokom ljudi. - Sv. Mihovil ima reputaciju ispovjedaonice grada i Nadbiskupije – kaže nam gvardijan samostana fra Antun Badurina, izdanak paške obitelji koja se cijela posvetila vjeri i duhu Njegov je najstariji brat bio pokojni šibenski biskup Srećko Badurina, drugi brat mu je također fratar, a dvije sestre koludrice. – Uvijek smo otvoreni ljudima, ispovijedi se nekad provlače kroz cijeli dan, od jutra do večeri. Nije lako biti uvijek na raspolaganju, ali ljude treba saslušati, njima je uvijek teže nego nama.

f the four corners of Zadar’s famous „Four Corners“ crosswalk, one of them is supported by a church, more than likely dating back to early Christianity. This church has carried the name of St. Mihovil (Michael) since its first mention back in 1139, and it is probably the only aspect of the church that has never changed. The church itself has seen transformation – 14th century renovations saw the church change from Roman to Gothic style at the hands of foreman Pavao from Sulmona, five centuries later the church underwent further important additions. It was one of six city churches, parish church until the construction of St. Simon, and headquarters for several guilds. The city itself changed, often abruptly and dramatically, as the wind rose of history blew. 202 years ago St. Mihovil was offered to Third Order Franciscans whose former monastery in the city was abolished. It was a „take it or leave it offer“ with the flavor of an ultimatum, this is how one reclusive and penitent order, without a choice, found its home in the heart of the city. Sewn into the thick fibre of residential buildings, on the peninsula’s backbone, with a facade unable to be seen from the web of city streets, St. Mihovil made its presence known through its deeds and not by its appearance. I don’t know of many churches where guests from a cafe across a narrow street quietly drink their coffee in its doorway due to the absence of empty tables. While doing so we don’t mention abandoned sacral scenery, yet we do mention its activity, its always open doors and three daily masses and huge influx of worshippers. St. Mihovil holds a reputation as confessional of the city and archbishop’s office – monastery superior Father Antun Badurina tells us, offspring of a Pag family which dedicated itself in its entirety to faith and spirituality. His oldest brother is the late bishop of Šibenik, Srečko Badurina, his second brother is also a monk, and he has two sisters who are nuns. We are always open to people, confession at times lasts the entire day, from

Usmjerenost puku kod franjevaca trećoredaca ima duboke korijene. Od samih početaka njeguju glagoljicu i bogoslužje na staroslavenskom jeziku, što su im kao povlasticu priznali i Venecija i Vatikan (mise na staroslavenskom u Mihovilu su dočekale i kasno 20. stoljeće, tradicija se održavala jednom mjesečno sve do 90-ih). Nije

nevažna ni činjenica da su trećoredci domicilna zadarska zajednica, prvi put spomenuta u povijesnim dokumentima još 1251. Prvi samostan, Sv. Ivan, osnovali su 1439. u kasnije porušenoj Varoši izvan gradskih zidina, a danas na području grada i županije djeluju u Sv. Ivanu na Relji i Sv. Mihovilu, te na Školjiću kod Preka i Dugom otoku, u Zaglavu. Služili su kao kapelani galijama, u zatvorima, hospitalima, skrbili za oboljele od kuge, odgajali generacije redovnika, intelektualaca i duhovnika, isticali se pokorništvom i nesebičnim djelima milosrđa...

morning until night. Its not easy always being available, however, people need to be heard, its always harder for them than it is for us. Orientation of the common people toward the Third Order Franciscans has deep roots. From their beginning they have nurtured the glagolitic script and have held liturgy in the old Slavic tongue, Venice and the Vatican allowed them this benefit as a privilege (mass held in the old Slavic language in St. Mihovil lasted until the late 20th century, the tradition was kept up once a month until the 1990’s).

Not insignificant is the fact that the Third Order Franciscans are a domiciliary Zadar community, they were first mentioned in historical documents dating as early as 1251. The first monastery, St. Ivan, was founded in 1439 in the later destroyed Varoš neighborhood located outside of the city walls. They are presently active within the city and county in St. Ivan on the Relja and St. Mihovil in the city, on Školjić near Preko and in Zaglava on Dugi Otok. They have served as chaplains on galleys, in prisons and hospitals, they also cared for those sick with the plague. They raised generations of friars, intellectuals and men of the cloth, they espoused penitent and unselfish acts of charity. Over time the needs of the people have changed, but they have always remained at their disposal. St. Mihovil is not your typical monastery. This is pointed out by the monastery superior, he remarks that the only one similar to the Zadar monastery is the

Ljudske su se potrebe mijenjale, a oni uvijek bili na raspolaganju. Sv. Mihovil nije tipičan samostan. To ističe i njegov gvardijan, napominjući da je jedini donekle sličan ovom zadarskom onaj u gradu Krku, također ustupljen franjevcima kao zamjenski dom. No, baš takav Mihovil čuva povijesni kontinuitet i središte je Zadarsko-splitske provincije. U njemu je trenutno smješteno šestoro braće i tri sestre u odvojenom krilu, a radovi na obnovi i rekonstrukciji dvorišta samostana dodatno pridonose dojmu prometnosti tog malog prostora duha. Samostan ima i neveliku, ali vrijednu zbirku umjetnina, u čijem se postavu ističe veliko oslikano drveno raspelo iz 13. stoljeća, klasično djelo hrvatske sakralne umjetnosti, inače ostavština bratovštine Gospe od sniga. Kad ne putuje po izložbama u zemlji i inozemstvu, križ visi u zraku ispod svoda svetišta crkve i gleda prema koru, u najstarije ispravne orgulje u Zadru, iz 17. stoljeća. Ono što se danas može zateći u crkvi i zbirci Sv. Mihovila tek je mali, sačuvani dio puno većeg umjetničkog blaga koje je u protekla dva stoljeća nestalo ili promijenilo adresu. Svako vrijeme nosi svoje, reklo bi se. A o ovom našem, čudnom i brzom, koje živo vijori prostrto između četiri kantuna, fra Antun Badurina kaže: - Gradovi su se nekad prepoznavali i dičili svojim katedralama, gradili bi ih i dovršavali desetljećima, čak i generacijama. Danas su glavna mjesta ponosa i utjecaja banke i stadioni. Komunikacija se umnožila, ali u tom množenju i degradirala, ljudi se sve više otuđuju, kontakti su površni. To je otklon od Boga, a kad otkloniš Boga nestaju granice, nema sigurnosti. Ljudi se hvataju materijalnog kad izgube potrebu za duhovnim. A Isus je rekao: ‘Gdje ti je blago, tu ti je i srce’.

Na zaklonjenom, sjenovitom pročelju Sv. Mihovila ističe se kameni reljef tri muška lika, antički fragment po dobrom zadarskom običaju uklopljen u vanjsku, gotičku vizuru crkve. Koga predstavljaju ta trojica iz vječne sjene, ne zna se, ali ih se po sili uloge na pročelju crkve počelo tretirati kao svece. Makar ne izgledaju baš svetački...

one in the city of Krka which was also given to the Franciscans as a substitute home. Mihovil preserves historical continuity and it is the center of the Zadar-Split province. Currently situated within its walls are six brothers and three sisters in separate wings, work on the renovation and reconstruction of the courtyard adds a bit of extra traffic to this small spiritual space. The monastery has a small, yet valuable, art collection; the collection includes a large illustrated wooden crucifix dating to the 13th century and is a classic work of Croatian sacral art, the piece is an inheritance from the guild „Gospe od Sniga“ (St. Mary of Snow). When its not traveling in domestic and international exhibitions, the cross hangs in the air beneath the vaulted arch of the sanctuary facing the choir which is situated near the oldest functioning organ in Zadar, the organ dates to the 17th century. What can be found in the the church and collection of St. Mihovil is only a small, preserved portion of a larger artistic collection, which over the last two centuries has disappeared or changed address. It can be said that every era carries with it its own consequences. And in our strange and fast-tempoed time where life streams between the „Four Corners“ father Antun Badurina says: „At one time cities recognized and took pride in their cathedrals, building them and taking decades to finish them, sometime even generations. Today our main areas of pride and influence are banks and stadiums. Communication has multiplied and from this multiplication it has degraded, people find themselves more and more alienated, human contact is superficial at best. That is a deviation from God, when you deviate from God boundaries disappear, there is no security. People cling to the material when they lose the need for the spiritual. And Jesus said: „Your treasure is where your heart is found“.“

On the concealed and shadowed facade of Sv. Mihovil there is a stone relief depicting three male figures, the antique fragment, according to Zadar tradition, was incorporated into the church’s Gothic appearance. Just who the mysterious and shadowed threesome represent is unknown, however, by the strength of their role on the facade of the church they are regarded as saints. Even though they do not appear to be too saintly...

TROJICA U SJENI THE SHADOWED THREESOME

fra ANTUN BADURINA GVARDIJAN SAMOSTANA MONASTERY FATHER SUPERIOR

Sv. Mihovil ima reputaciju ispovjedaonice grada i Nadbiskupije – kaže nam gvardijan samostana fra ANTUN BADURINA, izdanak paške obitelji koja se cijela posvetila vjeri i duhu Njegov je najstariji brat bio pokojni šibenski biskup Srećko Badurina, drugi brat mu je također fratar, a dvije sestre koludrice. – Uvijek smo otvoreni ljudima, ispovijedi se nekad provlače kroz cijeli dan, od jutra do večeri. Nije lako biti uvijek na raspolaganju, ali ljude treba saslušati, njima je uvijek teže nego nama. St. Mihovil holds a reputation as confessional of the city and archbishop’s office – tells us monastery superior Father Antun Badurina, offspring of a Pag family which dedicated itself in its entirety to faith and spirituality. His oldest brother is the late bishop of Šibenik, Srečko Badurina, his second brother is also a monk, and he has two sisters who are nuns. We are always open to people, confession at times lasts the entire day, from morning until night. Its not easy always being available, however, people need to be heard, its always harder for them than it is for us.

TURISTIČKO DRUŠTVO LIBURNIJA Liburnija Tourism Society Piše / Text by Juraj Gracin Fotografije / Photos by Arhiv ZLATO I SREBRO

rupa uglednih zadarskih građana: Alfons knez Borelli, dr. Luka Jelić, Petar Andrović, Lavoslav Golf, Osvald Battali, Kosta Neumayer, Rikard Kotolić, Ludovik Kočevar, Ferdinana Tepper i Marko Nizeteo, organizirala je 24. srpnja 1899. utemeljiteljsku skupštinu Planinarskog turističkog društva LIBURNIJA. Deset dana prije skupštine austrijske su vlasti odobrile pravila u kojima je pisalo da se društvo LIBURNIJA utemeljuje sa svrhom da istraži prirodne ljepote „kraljevine Dalmacije“, kako bi one bile pristupačne poglavito stranim posjetiteljima. Navedeni zadarski uglednici odmah su se nakon organiziranja dali na posao, da bi, uz prirodne ljepote Zadra, njegove okolice i cijele Dalmacije, afirmirali i povijesno nasljeđe svoga kraja. U taj su projekt svoje djelatnosti nešto poslije usmjerili i mnoge druge Zadrane: Hubert Borelli, Kazimir Abelić, dr. Radoslav Papafava, Josip Pedišić, Emanuel Nikolić, te uz njih i lijep broj drugih. Planinarsko turističko društvo Liburnija počelo je raditi sa šezdesetak članova, osam godina poslije društvo je imalo skoro dvjesto članova, a broj se vremenom samo povećavao. Društvo je već u početku imalo, kako je danas uobičajeno reći, status dioničarskog društva, jer su osnivači akciju poduprli kupnjom dionica (svaka je dionica zapadala 5 austrijskih kruna).

group of renowned Zadar citizens: Prince Alfons Borelli, Dr. Luka Jelić, Petar Andrović, Lavoslav Golf, Osvald Battali, Kosta Neumayer, Rikard Kotolić, Ludovik Kočevar, Ferdinana Tepper and Marko Nizeteo, organized the founding assembly of the LIBURNIJA Alpine Tourism Society on the 24th of July, 1899. Ten days prior to the assembly, the Austrian government approved the rules on which the LIBURNIJA society was founded, their aim was to explore the natural beauty of the “Dalmatian Kingdom”, as they would be accessible mainly to foreign visitors. After formation, the above mentioned citizens of note immediately set to work to affirm the historical inheritance of their region, aside from the natural beauty of Zadar, surrounding regions and all of Dalmatia. As the project expanded, many other Zadar citizens focused their energies on the society’s activities, including Hubert Borelli, Kazimir Abelić, Dr. Radoslav Papafava, Josip Pedišić, Emanuel Nikolić, as well as countless others. The Liburnija Alpine Tourism Society began work with approximately sixty members, eight years later the society numbered almost 200 members, and those numbers rose with time. At their start the society had, as is commonly said today, a shareholders status, because the founders of this action supported

Već u svojim počecima LIBURNIJA je za članove uz fizičke osobe imala i pravne. Od ovih potonjih prva je pristupnicu potpisala dubrovačka općina. No unatoč suvislo razrađenoj organizaciji društvu nisu cvjetale ruže pri vlasti, tako da se i sam Dalmatinski sabor oglušio na njegovu molbu za novčanu pomoć. PT društvo LIBURNIJA s vremenom se ipak uspjevalo nametnuti kako svojim otvorenim djelatnostima, tako i promidžbom. Mnogo je polagalo na izletničke aktivnosti i na uređenje turističkih planinarskih domova (na Pašmanu i na Ugljanu, naprimjer). Posebno je pak zanimljivo da je na skrb preuzelo tvrđavu sv. Lovrijenca u Dubrovniku, koju je kasnije predalo dubrovačkom društvu za promidžbu dubrovačkih interesa. U promidžbene je svrhe zadarska LIBURNIJA već početkom XX stoljeća počela izdavati razne publikacije i na nekoliko evropskih jezika. Zahvaljujući upornosti svojih djelatnika te pomoći dalmatinskog namjesnika Nike Nardellija, društvo je uspjelo potaknuti i organizirati stvaranje Pokrajinskog saveza za promicanje saobraćaja stranaca u kraljevini Dalmaciji. Taj je savez, sa sjedištem u Zadru, okupio mnoge dalmatinske kulturne i društvene djelatnike, pa je u značajnoj mjeri pridonio razvoju turističke djelatnosti i stvaranju raznih udruga za sveopći gospodarski napredak južne Hrvatske. Za talijanske okupacije Zadra Planinarsko turističko društvo LIBURNIJA svoj rad nastavlja u Splitu pod imenom DINARA, do čega je došlo sjedinjenjem LIBURNIJE s Planinarskim društvom MOSOR iz Poljica. LIBURNIJA se pak u Zadru održala i nakon II svjetskog rata, te i danas djeluje kao turističko društvo.

the purchasing of shares (each share cost 5 Austrian Krunas). Early LIBURNIJA memberships included not only physical members but legal members as well. Of the latter, the first to sign an application form was Dubrovačka County. In spite of their highly developed organization, roses did not bloom for the society at the hands of state authorities, so much so that even the Dalmatian congress went deaf when appeals for financial aid would arrive. The LIBURNIJA Alpine Society succeeded over time through open activity and self promotion. It placed great importance on excursion activities and adaptation of touristic alpine housing (on Pašman and Ugljan for example). It is especially interesting to note that the society assumed responsibility for Fort Lovrijenac in Dubrovnik, later on they turned it over to the Dubrovnik society for the promotion of Dubrovnik’s interests. For promotional purposes, Zadar LIBURNIJA began publishing various publications in several European languages at the beginning of the 20th century. Thanks to the hard work of its members and Dalmatian regent Niko Nardelli, the society was able to reach out and organize the creation of a provincial alliance for the advancement of foreign presence in the Kingdom of Dalmatia. This alliance, based in Zadar, gathered many Dalmatian cultural and social workers, with their efforts they influenced progress in tourist activity and the creation of various associations for the general economic development of southern Croatia. During the period of Italian occupation, the Zadar Touristic Alpine Society LIBURNIJA continued their work in Split under the moniker DINARA, which led to LIBURNIJA’s integration with the MOSOR Alpine Society from Poljica. LIBURNIJA continued their work in Zadar even after World War II, to this day they are still active as a touristic society.

Sveci

Saints

Povijest History Riznice

Treasury

Vjera Faith

Zadarsko ljeto Zadar Summer Kavane

Coffe Hauses

Događanja

Events

Cruzeri

Cruise Ships

Ulice

Streets

Mitovi Myths

Artisti Artists

Atrakcije

Attractions

I Zadar je, posljednjih godina, sve više takav grad, mediteranski bučan, vedar i naglašen, s događajima i pričama koje vrebaju iza svakog kantuna. Naravno, govorimo o ljetu, o sezonskoj bajci koja ima svoj početak, kulminaciju i kraj, ali čiji se utjecaj polako i sigurno širi prema onim sporim, pustim i hladnim mjesecima. Na dobro se lako naviknuti, jednako kao što je lako zaboraviti loše. I grad ne smije biti grad samo za potrebe turizma, ili jest ili nije, a Zadar se, čini se, konačno oslobodio malomišćanskih okova, otpustio kočnice i prigrlio zdravi hedonizam. And over the last several years Zadar is more and more like those types of cities, Mediterranean and boisterous, bright and accentuated, with happenings and stories lurking around every corner. Of course we are talking about the summer, about the seasonal fairytale that has its own beginning, culmination and ending, but its reach and influence is silently spreading to those slower, desolated and colder months. It’s easy to become accustomed to something good, as easy as it is to forget the bad. A city shouldn’t be a city just for the needs of tourism, either it is or it isn’t, and Zadar, it seems, is finally freeing itself of its small town shackles, it’s easing off the brakes and embracing a bit of healthy hedonism

Ni slavni tenor Jose Carreras nije odolio ĹĄarmu zadarskih ulica. Za svoj koncert izabrao je ulicu koja spaja Kalelargu i zadarski Forum s rivom Not even the famed tenor Jose Carreras could resist the charm of Zadarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s streets. For his concert he chose the street that intersects the Kalelarga and the Zadar Forum with the waterfront.

Zadarsko ljeto Zadar Summer

Ulica, ogledalo grada The Street, Mirror of the City Piše / Text by ANTE PERKOVIĆ Fotografije / Photos by MLADEN MRŽLJAKOVIĆ MRLJA SAŠA GOSPIĆ

no što je društvu obitelj, gradu je ulica – osnovna stanica, temeljno tkivo iz kojeg se množi i grana sve ostalo. Ulica grad čini gradom, ona će o njemu, u par koraka, reći više od svih knjiga. Kao malo što drugo stvoreno čovjekovom rukom, proteže se i kroz prostor i kroz vrijeme. Uzmimo Kalelargu za primjer: u prostoru nevelika, prolazi središtem Poluotoka, od Narodnog trga do Trga Sv. Stošije, ne hvata ni kilometar. Ali, u vremenu zahvaća skoro cijelu povijest zapadne civilizacije, od Rimljana do nas i još puno, puno dalje. I svo to vrijeme smjerno čini jednu jedinu stvar – zrcali život. Ma što grad krio iza vrata i zidova, kakve god elitne institucije razvijao i njegovao, ulica ga uvijek najbolje određuje i prezentira. Male, uplašene i zaostale sredine ulice se boje, negiraju je, najrađe bi je zatvorili za sve osim najnužnijeg prometa. Njima je sve što se događa tamo potencijalna opasnost, jer je otvoreno, javno, ne pretvara se i laže. S druge strane, gradovi čije ulice dišu punim plućima, pulsiraju životom, bojama, glasovima – sretni su, otvoreni i privlačni. Iz njih ljudi ne bježe, nego im se rado i često vraćaju. I Zadar je, posljednjih godina, sve više takav grad, mediteranski bučan, vedar i naglašen, s događajima i pričama koje vrebaju iza svakog kantuna. Naravno, govorimo o ljetu, o sezonskoj bajci koja ima svoj početak, kulminaciju i kraj, ali čiji se utjecaj polako i sigurno širi prema onim sporim, pustim i hladnim mjesecima. Na dobro se lako naviknuti, jednako kao što je lako zaboraviti loše. I grad ne smije biti grad samo za potrebe turizma, ili jest ili nije, a Zadar se, čini se, konačno oslobodio malomišćanskih okova, otpustio kočnice i prigrlio zdravi hedonizam. Pustio smijeh i sreću na svoje predugo uspavane ulice. Posljednji dan srpnja ove godine, drugi i zaključni dan

hat what society is to the family, streets are to a city its primary feature, the fabric from which its branches and everything else multiplies. City streets are what make a city, in just a few steps a street will reveal a city more than any book can. Like little else created by human hands they weave through space and time. Let’s look at the Kalelarga as an example, it isn’t very large and it passes across the center of the city peninsula from the Narodni Trg (People’s Square) to the St. Stošija Square, not even a kilometer in length. However, in a moment’s embrace it captures almost the entire history of western civilization, from the Romans to the present and so much more. And across all that time its primary function is to reflect life. Whatever a city hides behind its doors and walls, whatever type of elite institution it developed or nurtured, the street is always best when it comes to determination and presentation. Small, frightened and backward areas fear the street, and would like to close them off to everything but the most necessary of traffic. For them, everything that happens there is a potential threat, because everything is open, public, they don’t change, they lie. On the other hand, cities whose streets breathe with powerful lungs, pulsate with life, colors, voices – they are happy, open and appealing. People don’t flee from them, often returning enthusiastically and frequently. And over the last several years Zadar is more and more like those types of cities, Mediterranean and boisterous, bright and accentuated, with happenings and stories lurking around every corner. Of course we are talking about the summer, about the seasonal fairytale that has its own beginning, culmination and ending, but its reach and influence is silently spreading to those slower, desolated and colder months. It’s easy to become accustomed to something good, as easy as it is to forget the bad. A city shouldn’t be a city just for the needs of tourism, either it is or

Kalelargarta, festivala ulične umjetnosti i performansa. Večer topla, zrak gust kao med, grad živ, prepun pokreta, jezika, osmijeha, muzike... Na Trgu svira puhački kvartet saksofoniste Gordana Tudora, jednog od naših najistaknutijih mladih glazbenika. Poznate melodije iz filmova i crtića, rasplesana djeca i nasmijani roditelji. Ulaz u Kalelargu gotovo je zakrčen, ali sve ipak teče, bez žurbe i nervoze. Poslije kazališta izbijamo u izvedbenu aleju. Na lijevoj strani, modna revija na pravom travnjaku. Desno velika, oslikana platna, između stupova postavljeni okviri za sliku, mala, ali značajna intervencija u prostoru, podsjetnik koliko je sitna razlika između obične šetnje i performansa. Pogotovo kod nas, u Dalmaciji, gdje smo svi pomalo glumci, pripovjedači, vječno u potrazi za publikom. I samo nas smiješni malograđanski moral spriječava da se izrazimo do kraja. A barem ulica podnosi sve, tamo je najlakše shvatiti koliko si dobar i vrijedan nečije pažnje. Konačno, sve što je danas u muzejima, krenulo je s ulice. Nema drugog puta, nema drugačije umjetnosti. Tu, otvorena i slobodna, ona nas dotiče puno slobodnije, radi veću razliku. I zbog grada samog i zbog svih njegovih gostiju, ono što ljeti čine Kalelargart, Zadar Snova, Millenium Jump, Noć punog miseca, Glazbena jutra u Stomorici... svi programi koji javne prostore pretvaraju u pozornice, presudno je i vrijedno svake podrške. Na glavnoj pozornici Kalelargarta, na sjeveroistočnom kutu Foruma – kulminacija. Ulični teatar, plesačice, hodači na štulama, žongleri vatrom i visoko gore, uz zvonik

it isn’t, and Zadar, it seems, is finally freeing itself of its small town shackles, it’s easing off the brakes and embracing a bit of healthy hedonism. Allowing smiles and felicity to walk its much too long sleeping streets. The last day of July this year is the second and final day of Kalelargart, a festival of street art and performance. The evening is warm, the air thick as honey, the city is alive, full of movement, languages, smiles and music. On the main square the Gordon Tudor Saxophone Quartet is playing, he is one of our most revered young musicians. Well known melodies from films and cartoons, dancing children and laughing parents. The entrance to the Kalelarga (main street) is jammed, but everything is flowing without haste or anxiety. Passing the theater, we break through to performance alley. To the left is a fashion show on a real grassplot. To the right is a large, painted canvas, between columns are frames for the pictures, a small, yet important intervention into space, a reminder of just how small a difference there is between a normal walk and performance. Especially here in Dalmatia, where every single one of us is a bit of an actor, a storyteller, in an eternal search for an audience. Only our comical small town morals prevent us from expressing ourselves fully. At least the streets can withstand it all, there it is, easy to recognize how good you are and worthy of someone’s attention. Finally, everything that today

Katedrale, bijeli anđeo. Predstava je, jasno, dvostruka; ogleda se i u licima promatrača, tamo ostvaruje paralelnu radnju. Francuska gospođa ljutito doziva supruga koji je s kamerom zapeo kod štanda mađioničara Rica, dva mlada Engleza posebno zabavlja svaki prolazak konobara s punim pladnjem kroz uličnu scenu, suosjećaju i navijaju za njega, mala rumena Čehinja povlači mamu prema šećernoj vuni... Gledati svoj grad očima stranca zna biti neprocjenjivo. Njihov pogled možda ne hvata duboko, ali često primjeti ono što je starosjediocima, zbog prevelike izloženosti, počelo izmicati. U to ime, i u čast probuđenih zadarskih ulica, donosimo nekoliko impresija namjernika, prijatelja, slučajnih i namjernih turista. Tko zna, možda nam pomognu da se opet zaljubimo u svoj grad. Tricia Deering, novinarka (Wisconsin, USA): Zadar mi izgleda kao mjesto u kojem sirene izranjanju poslije ponoći. Dolutaju iz mora, legnu na kamenu obalu i sunčaju se pod zvijezdama. Kažu da Eskimi imaju stotine riječi za bijelu boju. Pitam se imaju li Hrvati isto toliko za plavu? Kako bi inače opisali to more? Zadarske su ulice popločane glatkim bijelim kamenjem. Po njima ne hodaš, nego kliziš. Te kamene ploče isporučuju te iz koraka u korak, kao da imaš svo vrijeme ovog svijeta i kao da je taj trenutak jedino što vrijedi. (original: Zadar to me seemed to be the place where mermaids would surface after midnight. They would slink in from the sea, lie on the rocky shore, basking in starlight. Apparently, the Eskimos have 100s of words for the color ‘white’. I wondered, does Croatian have 100s of words for the color ‘blue’? How else could you describe that sea? The streets of Zadar are paved with polished white stones. One does not walk on those stones; one glides. Those stones deliver you from step to step, as if you had all the time in the world, and as if that moment were all the mattered.) Daniel Kovač, pisac i glazbenik (Beograd, Srbija): U Zadru sam bio samo jednom, davno, bio sam jako mali pa se ne sjećam detalja. A onda ove godine dobih poziv da sudjelujem u Glazbenim jutrima u Stomorici. Svo vrijeme sam bio okružen jako finim ljudima i bučnom gitarskom muzikom. Uske ulice starog grada su jako dobar pratilac finih pijanstava i druženja, lijepo hvataju tijelo dok se pomiče iz jednog lokala u drugi, već izgubljeno u meandrima. Pijanstvo u uskim ulicama Varoša čista je poezija. David Pando Junquero, poduzetnik (Barcelona, Španjolska): Nisam namjeravao posjetiti Zadar, ali je put niz obalu od Pule prema jugu jednostavno bio predug, morao sam negdje stati. O gradu nisam znao ništa, bila je to čista slučajnost. Na kraju, taj dan proveden u Zadru ostao mi je u najljepšem sjećanju. Toliko prekrasnih stvari za vidjeti, toliko povijesti na jednom mjestu i još taj čudesni zalazak sunca! Uživao sam u istraživanju uskih ulica, dvorišta, bedema... Vaš je grad predivna tajna.

is found in museums, had its beginnings in the streets. There is no other way, there is no other art form. Open and free, the street nudges us to be more open, to be different. And because of the city itself and because of all its guests, that what makes Kalelargart, Zadar Snova, Millennium Jump, The Night of the Full Moon, Musical Mornings in Stomorica…all the programs that transform public spaces into stages, crucial and worthy of all support. On Kalelargart’s main stage, located on the northeast section of the Forum, is the culmination. Street theater, dancers, stilt walkers and fire jugglers, up high near the cathedral’s bell tower is a white angel. The performance is two-fold: reflected in the faces of onlookers, a second parallel performance is being carried out. A French woman angrily summons her husband who got stuck with his camera at magician Rico’s stand, two young Englishmen are entertained by every passing of a waiter with a full tray of drinks through this street scene, they feel for him and cheer him on, a small, red faced Czech girl drags her mother towards a stand with cotton candy. Viewing your city through the eyes of a foreigner can be priceless. Their gaze might not reach very deep, but they often notice that which passes native residents by, often because of overexposure. In the name of and in the honor of our awakening Zadar streets, we bring you the impressions of chance travelers, friends, accidental and intentional tourists. And who knows, maybe they will help us fall in love with our city once again. Tricia Deering, journalist (Wisconsin, USA): Zadar to me seemed to be the place where mermaids would surface after midnight. They would slink in from the sea, lie on the rocky shore, basking in starlight. Apparently, the Eskimos have hundreds of words for the color “white”. I wondered, does Croatian have hundreds of words for the color “blue”? How else could you describe that sea? The streets of Zadar are paved with polished white stones. One does not walk on those stones; one glides. Those stones deliver you from step to step, as if you had all the time in the world, and as if that moment were all the mattered. Daniel Kovač, writer and musician (Belgrade, Serbia) I visited Zadar one time before, a long time ago, I was really young and don’t remember the details. And this year I received a call to participate in the “Music Mornings in Stomorica”. The entire time I have been surrounded by nice people and loud guitar driven music. Old narrow city streets are a good companion for fine intoxication and socializing, they catch bodies nicely moving from locale to locale, already lost in a meander. Drunkenness in the narrow streets of Varoš is pure poetry. David Pando Junquero, businessman (Barcelona, Spain) I did not intend to visit Zadar, but the road along the coastline from Pula towards the south was just too long, I had to stop somewhere. I didn’t know anything about the city, it was a total coincidence. In the end, the day I spent in Zadar is one of my fondest memories. So many beautiful things to see, so much history in one place, and on top of that was that marvelous sunset. I took delight in exploring the narrow streets, courtyards, the city walls… Your city is a beautiful secret.

Klemen Lah, doktor književnosti i vanjski suradnik Filozofskog fakulteta u Zadru (Ljubljana, Slovenija):

Vidi čudo! Stranac u Zadru nikad se ne izgubi, uvijek ga sretnu samo sretni ljudi. Ulice su mu poznate kao vlastito lice kroz grad ne nose ga noge, nego bile ptice. Volim biti stranac, stranac u Zadru... Vidi čudo! Zadrani ne rode se nikada u svom gradu, nego tamo negdje... dalje, na Zapadu. Tristo puta reinkarnirane vraća ih dugi put, njih, koji su dugo tražili ljubav - uzalud. Volim biti stranac, stranac u Zadru... Vidi čudo! I mene, kojim nosim svaki kamen grada, Zadar nije upoznao do sada. Za njega nisam ni izgubljeni sin, jedino me voli, ako dugo nisam s njim. Volim biti stranac, stranac u Zadru... Vidi čudo! Zadar najviše voli one koje više nema, za njih je možda i ova poema, za one koji su skužili u čemu je stvar, Zadar nije da se živi, Zadar je za-dar. Volim biti stranac, stranac u Zadru...

Klemen Lah, doctor of literature and freelance associate to the Zadar faculty of philosophy (Ljubljana, Slovenia):

See the wonder! A foreigner in Zadar never loses his way, always greeted by friendly people along the way. The streets are known to him like the lines of his face he is not carried through the city by his legs, but by white birds. I love being a foreigner, a foreigner in Zadar… See the wonder! Zadar man is never born in his city, somewhere further away…in the west. Three hundred times reincarnated on their long road back, those that have searched long for love – in vain. I love being a foreigner, a foreigner in Zadar… See the wonder! And for myself who carries every stone of the city, Zadar never met me until now. I am not even a lost son to him, he loves me equally, even if I have not been with him for a long time. I love being a foreigner, a foreigner in Zadar… See the wonder! Zadar loves the most those that are no longer here, maybe this poem is for them, for the ones that understood what it’s about, Zadar is not for living, Zadar is a gift. I love being a foreigner, a foreigner in Zadar…

Nick Colgan Prvi ‘vrtlar’ Gardena i Garden Festivala

THE FIRST „GARDENER“ OF THE GARDEN AND GARDEN FESTIVAL Piše / Text by ANTE PERKOVIĆ Fotografije / Photos by JAKOV ĐINĐIĆ

‘ ije bilo vremena za razmišljanje, imalo smo samo deset dana da odlučimo’, prisjetio se kasnog listopada 2003. i svog prvog susreta s prostorom koji će kasnije postati Garden i nepovratno promijeniti turističku sliku Zadra, njegov vlasnik Nick Colgan. Potom je pogledao današnji Garden u srpanjskoj jutarnjoj siesti i sa smješkom rekao: ‘Tko zna, da smo mogli duže razmišljati... možda ništa od ovog ne bi bilo.’ Priča o tome kako je Zadar dobio najbolji lounge bar na ovoj strani Jadrana, prestižni glazbeni festival, turistički brand po kojem se grad prepoznaje u svijetu, ali i – ne manje važno - nove stanovnike iz Britanije, puna je sretnih podudarnosti. Nick Colgan, iskusni profesionalac u glazbenoj industriji, baš je negdje u vrijeme svog prvog ljetnog odmora kod prijatelja u Ražancu, u ljeto 2003., odlučio prestati ići na turneje s UB40, s kojima je, kao tour manager, proputovao cijeli svijet. Tražio je novi poslovni izazov, s partnerom Jamesom Jimmyem Brownom, bubnjarem UB40, razmišljao o otvaranju kluba u Španjolskoj, a ni ideja o preseljenju cijele obitelji iz okolice Birminghama u neku gostoljubiviju klimu nije mu bila strana. Uspomene s idiličnog odmora u Ražancu bile su još vrlo svježe kad je stigao prijateljev poziv: prostor nekadašnje bašte hotela Beograd, mjesta kultnih zadarskih plesnjaka koje je godinama propadalo, nudio se u koncesiju. ‘Prostor je bio zapušten, kao i cijeli ovaj dio grada, ali je imao strašan potencijal, to je bilo odmah očito. Odluka je pala, a poslije se sve događalo vrlo brzo. Bilo je nekih pravnih, birokratskih problema, ali to se brzo riješilo. Supruga i ja smo došli još jednom temeljito sve pogledati, u travnju 2004. su počeli radovi i Garden je otvoren u srpnju’, kaže Nick. Obitelj Colgan, Nick, Charlotte i njihovo dvoje djece, u početku se skrasila u Ražancu, da bi kasnije kupili kuću u Petrčanima. Voditi posao u stranoj zemlji je jedno, ali preseliti cijeli život ovdje, i to iz Engleske, u koju smo uglavnom navikli ispraćati svoje sugrađane u potrazi za boljim životom? Nickovo jednostavno objašnjenje govori nam koliko smo malo svjesni blagodati kojima raspolažemo: ‘Odrastao sam u Birminghamu, u obitelji irskih emigranata. Zajednica je tad bila vrlo povezana, svi su se poznavali i međusobno si pomagali, ali se to s vremenom sasvim izgubilo. Ljudi su se strašno otuđili, nismo znali ni ime svog prvog susjeda. Željeli smo bolje okružje za svoju djecu, mjesto gdje mogu bezbrižno i sigurno odrastati, biti samostalni, a ne da ih supruga i ja vodimo svuda. Ovdje je zajednica još uvijek jaka, ljudi su upućeni jedni na druge, do te mjere da ljudi znaju što radim prije mene (smijeh). I škole su puno bolje nego u Britaniji, moja djeca uživaju ići u školu, to valjda dovoljno govori. Bilo im je teško u početku, dok nisu savladala jezik, ali su se brzo prilagodili. Jasno, nedostaju im obitelj i rođaci, makar ih sada možda i više viđaju nego prije –

„ here was no time to think, we only had ten days to decide“, remembers owner Nick Colgan back to late October in 2003 and his first encounter with the space that would go on to become the Garden and which would forever change the touristic landscape of Zadar. With a smile on his face and gazing over today’s Garden on a July morning siesta, he said: „Who knows, if we had longer to think things over...maybe none of this would have come to pass.“ The story about how Zadar got the best lounge bar on this side of the Adriatic, a prestigious music festival, a touristic brand by which the city is now known all around the world, and – not any the less important – new residents from Britain, is a story full of fortunate coincidences. Nick Colgan, an experienced music industry professional, on vacation visiting a friend in Ražanac, Croatia in the summer of 2003, decided to stop touring with UB40, with whom he toured the world over as tour manager. He was looking for a new business challenge, with his partner and UB40 drummer James (Jimmy) Brown he thought about opening a club in Spain, and picking up and moving his entire family from the neighborhoods Birmingham to a more hospitable climate was not alien to him. Memories of his idyllic vacation in Ražanac were still fresh when he received a phone call from his friend: a prime location in the garden of the former Hotel Beograd, a cult place for Zadar dancing, in decay and seeing better days, was being offered for concession. „The location was neglected, as was this entire section of the city, but it had great potential, that was immediately evident. We made the decision and after that everything came about quite quickly. There were some legal and bureaucratic problems, but they were taken care of quickly as well. My wife and I came one more time to look things over thoroughly. In April of 2004 we began working and the Garden officially opened in July“, says Nick. Family Colgan, Nick, Charlotte and their two children, at first settled in Ražanac, later on purchasing a home in Petrčane. Running a business in a foreign country is one thing, but moving an entire family from England to Croatia, to a country where we have become accustomed to seeing off fellow citizens in search of a better life, is another. Nick’s simple explanation speaks loudly about the riches that we have at hand: „I grew up in Birmingham, in a family of Irish immigrants. Our community was tight knit, everyone knew each other and we helped each other out, over time that disappeared. People became really alienated, we didn’t even know the name of our immediate neighbor. We wanted a better surrounding for our children, a place where they can grow up carefree and safe, where they can be independent, and not a place where my wife and I have to take them everywhere. Here the community is still quite strong, people are familiar with one another, so much so that they often know what I’m doing before I

kad živiš na tako lijepom mjestu, češće te i posjećuju.’ Koncepcija lounge bara s prvoklasnom glazbom, smještajem i ponudom od zadarskog je Gardena vrlo brzo stvorila prepoznatljivo i popularno mjesto, gradsku palubu za uživanje čiji se dobar glas svijetom širio u koncentričnim krugovima. No, Colgani nisu stali na tome. ‘Htio sam organizirati festival, veliki glazbeni događaj’, prisjeća se Nick. ‘Svi su mislili da sam potpuno poludio. Na Piniju sam naletio slučajno, šećući psa, zaljubio se u prostor i tamo smo 2006. organizirali prvi Garden Festival. Potrošili smo silne novce i doveli jedva 300 ljudi iz Britanije. Ali, tako to ide, kod svakog ozbiljnijeg projekta računaš pet

do (laughs). The schools are much better than back in Britain, my children enjoy going to school, I think that speaks for itself. In the beginning it was tough on them, that is until they got control of the language, they adapted very quickly. Of course they miss their family and cousins, although they might see them even more now than they did before – when you live in such a nice place they visit more frequently.“ The concept of a lounge bar with first class music, great location and offerings quickly established the Garden as an identifiable and popular place to be, a city deck for pleasure and enjoyment whose reputation has spread across the world in concentric circles. But the Colgans didn’t stop at just that. „I wanted to organize a festival, a large musical spectacle“ adds Nick. „Everyone thought I was out of my mind. While walking my dog I accidently came across Pinija

godina unaprijed. Ljudi koji žele brzi obrat novca nikad nisu dugoročno uspješni, treba vremena, puno rada i investicija da stvoriš nešto vrijedno. Priznajem, pokolebao me je početni neuspjeh, ali onda su počele pristizati reakcije: utjecajni ljudi iz glazbene industrije i novinari koje cijenimo bili su oduševljeni idejom i lokacijom. To mi je vratilo vjeru da ipak imamo nešto posebno.’ I zaista, Garden Festival je u budućim izdanjima bujao i po posjećenosti i po ugledu, postao ‘najbolje čuvana tajna’, festival o kojem svi pričaju. Prošle je godine više od tri tisuće Britanaca okupiralo Petrčane, što je, po Nickovim riječima, bilo čak tisuću gostiju više od onoga što organizacija i mjesto

and I fell in love with the location and that is where we organized the first Garden Festival in 2006. We spent a lot of money and hardly attracted 300 people from Britain. But that’s how it goes with any serious project, you have to think five years ahead. People that want fast profits are never successful in the long run. It takes time, lots of work and investments to create something of value. I’ll admit, my initial failure wavered me a bit, but then the reactions started coming in: influential people from the music industry and journalists that we respected were enthusiastic about our idea and the location of the event. That restored my faith and proved that

realno mogu podnijeti. ‘To je krivi put’, nastavlja, ‘nije dobro za festival da se gosti ne osjećaju dobro ili da u restoranima u mjestu satima čekaju stol za večeru. A opet, događaj mora rasti, dosegnuti svoje potencijale. Zato smo ove godine napravili nešto što nam je donijelo veliki publicitet – festival koji traje dva mjeseca, cijelu sezonu, što nitko u svijetu ne radi. Sam Garden Festival zauzeo je dva vikenda i tjedan između njih na početku srpnja, a ostale vikende bukiraju promoteri koji su se zainteresirali za prostor i žele raditi s nama. Za ovogodišnji festival ograničili smo kapacitete na 2000 posjetitelja i prodali ulaznice u čak 26 zemalja. Garden Festival nije britanski festival, to je hrvatski festival: lokalni ljudi, lokalna ekonomija, lokalni običaji, sve nam je to jako važno. Svi mještani Petrčana imaju slobodan ulaz na poprište festivala, bez sinergije s mjestom festival ne bi funkcionirao. Drago mi je da smo srušili i predodžbu u Britancima kao neodgojenim, nasilnim huliganima, naši su gosti dobri i pristojni ljudi, mladi profesionalci koji nisu zainteresirani isključivo za 24-satni party, nego i za sve ostalo što grad i regija mogu ponuditi.’ A grad i regija, srećom, kvalitetno surađuju i prepoznaju dobre ideje koje vrijedi podržati. Rezultati su i više nego opipljivi: zadarska je zračna luka jedna od najzaposlenijih na obali, letovi su krcati, Petrčane za vrijeme održavanja festivala višestruko podižu prihode od turizma, a Zadar, još donedavno

we were on to something special.“ Future Garden Festivals grew in attendance and in appearance, becoming a „best kept secret“ and a festival that everyone was talking about. Last year more than three thousand Britons occupied Petrčane, which was, according to Nick, about one thousand guests more than the local area can actually handle. „That’s a bad road“, he adds, „it’s not good for the festival when your guests don’t feel okay or if they have to wait hours for a table at a restaurant. But then again, the event has to grow, it has to reach its potential. That’s why this year we did something that brought us a lot of publicity – we made it so that the festival lasts for two months, for the entire season, no one in the world does this. The Garden Festival itself took up two weekends and the week in between at the beginning of July, the remaining weekends were booked by promoters interested in the location and who wanted to work with us. For this year’s festival we limited the capacity to 2000 guests and sold tickets in 26 countries. The Garden Festival is not a British festival, it’s a Croatian festival. Local people, local economy, local traditions, all of that is important to us. All the residents of Petrčane have free access to the festival, without the local synergy the festival wouldn’t function. I’m glad that we knocked down the notion of British people as ill-mannered, violent hooligans; our guests are good, well mannered people, young professionals that are not interested only in 24 hour parties, but in everything else the city and region have to offer.“ The city and region, fortunately, properly cooperate and recognize good ideas worth supporting. Results are more than tangible: the Zadar airport is one of the most busy on the coast, flights are jam packed, Petrčane’s tourism revenue during the festival increased exponentially, while Zadar, until very recently unattractive to even Croatian’s themselves not to mention foreigners, became a magnet for young, dynamic and modern tourists from all over the world. „Zadar is perfect, the city and region have lots of potential to become a large tourist attraction, even on global levels“, believes Nick. „You just need to be smart and not allow growth to endanger the spirit and atmosphere. A desire of ours here in the Zadar Garden is to open a recording studio where, for 6 months of the year, international musicians can record their material, while during the rest of the year the British organization „Access to Music“ would conduct courses, seminars and workshops for Zadar citizens that want to work with music in any form. Access to Music is supported by many famous musicians, in England there are over 17,000 students, we are interested in – in cooperation with the city – opening such avenues for that type of education here.“

neprivlačan čak i Hrvatima, kamoli strancima, postaje magnet za mlade, dinamične, moderne turiste iz svih krajeva svijeta. ‘Zadar je savršen, grad i regija stvarno imaju potencijal postati velika turistička atrakcija, i to na svjetskoj razini’, uvjeren je Nick. ‘Samo treba biti pametan, ne dopustiti da razvoj ugrozi duh i atmosferu. Želja nam je ovdje, u zadarskom Gardenu, otvoriti glazbeni studio u kojem bi 6 mjeseci godišnje svjetski glazbenici snimali svoje materijale, dok bi ostatak godine britanska organizacija Access To Music održavala tečaje, seminare i radionice za Zadrane koji se žele profesionalno baviti glazbom u bilo kom smislu. Access To Music podržavaju brojni slavni glazbenici, u Engleskoj imaju preko 17 tisuća polaznika, htjeli bismo – u suradnji s gradom – i ovdje otvoriti mogućnost takve edukacije.’ Na osobnoj razini, Nick Colgan kaže da mu je ponekad još uvijek teško vjerovati da zaista živi na tako lijepom mjestu, s morem ispod prozora. Kćer mu ove jeseni kreće u gimnaziju, a 11-ogodišnji sin je ‘više Dalmatinac nego Englez’. ‘Znate kad smo znali da smo ga izgubili?’, smije se Nick. ‘Išli smo u Zagreb na utakmicu Hrvatska-Engleska, on je bio u engleskom dresu i Engleska je izgubila 2-1. Sutradan je u školu išao s kockastom majicom.’

On a personal level, Nick Colgan says that at times he still finds it hard to believe that he lives in such a beautiful place, with the sea right under his window. This fall his daughter will begin attending secondary school, and his 11 year old son is „more Dalmatian than English“. „Do you know how we found out that we lost?“ laughs Nick. „We went to Zagreb to watch Croatia vs. England, he was wearing an England jersey and England lost 2-1. The next day he went to school wearing a checkered jersey.“

Na osobnoj razini, Nick Colgan kaže da mu je ponekad još uvijek teško vjerovati da zaista živi na tako lijepom mjestu, s morem ispod prozora. Kćer mu ove jeseni kreće u gimnaziju, a 11-ogodišnji sin je ‘više Dalmatinac nego Englez’. ‘Znate kad smo znali da smo ga izgubili?’, smije se Nick. ‘Išli smo u Zagreb na utakmicu Hrvatska-Engleska, on je bio u engleskom dresu i Engleska je izgubila 2-1. Sutradan je u školu išao s kockastom majicom.’ On a personal level, Nick Colgan says that at times he still finds it hard to believe that he lives in such a beautiful place, with the sea right under his window. This fall his daughter will begin attending secondary school, and his 11 year old son is „more Dalmatian than English“. „Do you know how we found out that we lost?“ laughs Nick. „We went to Zagreb to watch Croatia vs. England, he was wearing an England jersey and England lost 2-1. The next day he went to school wearing a checkered jersey.“

Night of the full moon

N Ä&#x2020;

punog miseca

Piše / Text by LILI LOKIN Fotografije / Photos by Saša Gospić, Mladen Mržljaković Mrlja Jakov Đinđić ZLATO I SREBRO

plendid ideas unchain social potential and human creation. This happened on the “Night of the Full Moon” festival of culture, food and traditions of the Zadar region. That night of magnificent moon light, similar to a frozen bird’s eye keeping vigil over the sumptuous display of customs and traditions on the Zadar waterfront. Extinguished public lighting, boats stranded on stone slabs, illuminated by lanterns and drenched with Dalmatian song, folk costumes, decorations and handicrafts, rustic stands with abundant displays of traditional and ecological products, decorated bundles of lavender, rosemary and other coastal plants, all around are fanning scents and flavors of domestic cuisine. On wooden signs above every stand is the name of the represented place, all of them mutually competing with one another with the contents and beauty of their stories. Strolling from one stand to the next and between island ships, slowly, because there is no other way due to large amounts of visitors, you make your way from the global village to our local one, enlivened in its specificity. The only global fact remaining is the moon. That is the title which woke vampires and werewolves until the appearance of this manifestation, over a short time it has become one of the most important city brands, proving its value year in and year out. This cultural happening from a sociological point of view is a simultaneous step forward and a return to our roots. This embracing of our roots that founded this manifestation of authentic culture and tradition is the first touristic and cultural manifestation to abandon universal trash only to find its identity in local values. Positive recognition of these intentions is evident in the strong response of local residents and foreign tourists. From the stages of folk entertainment there are no advertisements for international brands of soda, whose packaging starts decomposing only by the time the third generation of those drinking from it appear, or fast food and faces smeared with ketchup, plastic masses surrendered to the mercy or to the merciless genius of the commercial mind, there are no blinking lights, whistles, neon and multi colored balloons, show business

obra ideja oslobađa društveni potencijal i ljudsku kreaciju. To se dogodilo i sa „Noći punog miseca“, festivalom kulture, hrane i običaja zadarskog kraja. Te noći velika svijetla luna, poput zaleđenog ptičjeg oka, bdije nad raskošnom predstavom običaja i tradicije na zadarskoj rivi. Ugašena javna rasvjeta, brodovi nasukani na kamenim pločama, osvijetljeni feralima i obliveni dalmatinskom pjesmom, narodne nošnje, ukrasi i zanati, rustikalni štandovi s obiljem tradicijskih i ekoloških proizvoda, ukrašeni snopovima lavande, ružmarina i ostalog bilja priobalnog kaja, posvuda mirisi i okusi domaće kuhinje u punoj lepezi ponude. Na drvenim tabelama iznad svakog štanda ime je mjesta koje se na njemu predstavlja a međusobno se natječu sadržajem i ljepotom svoje priče. Šetnjom od jednog do drugog i među otočkim brodovima, polako (jer se drugačije i ne može radi obilja posjetitelja) sporo se vraćamo iz globalnog sela u naše lokalno, oživljeno u svojoj posebnosti. Jedina globalna činjenica ostaje mjesec. Tako je naslov pod kojim su se do pojave ovog događaja budili jedino vampiri i vukodlaci, postao jedan od značajnih gradskih brendova i iz godine u godinu to dosljedno potvrđuje. Ovo je kulturno događanje, sociološki gledano, bilo i korak naprijed i povratak korijenima istovremeno. Povratak korijenima objašnjiv je samim utemeljenjem ovakve manifestacije u autentičnoj kulturi i tradiciji, a iskorak je u tome što je to prva takva turističko-kulturna manifestacija koja je napustila univerzalni trash i izraz potražila u lokalnim vrijednostima. Da je namjera odmah prepoznata i dobro vrijednovana dokazuje silan odaziv domaćeg stanovništva i stranih gostiju. Time su s pozornice pučke zabave nestale svjetske marke gaziranih pića, njihova ambalaža razgradiva tek u trećem pokoljenju onih koji su iz nje pili, fast food i lica umazana ajvarom, plastična masa prepuštena na milost i nemilost geniju komercijalnog uma, bljeskalice, zviždaljke, neon i šareni baloni, estradni cirkusanti i uglavnom loša glazba.

Neosporno je da se ideja o oživljavanju autentičnih vrijednosti poklopila s općim trendom i oduševljenjem za etno i eko ali to ne umanjuje vrijednost realizacije. Noć punog mjeseca vratila je digniti gradskoj manifestaciji i sve zajedno podigla na jednu višu razinu na kojoj pušu neki ugodniji vjetrovi poput spasonosnog meštrala ljeti u zadarskom kanalu. Ne rashladi a osvježi.

clowns and usual bad music. It is indisputable that ideas for the revival of authentic values overlaps with universal trends and enthusiasm for everything and anything ethno or ecological, but that in no way lessens the value of this project. The Night of the Full Moon has returned the dignity to city manifestations, lifting it to a higher level where pleasant winds blow, winds similar to the life saving “meštral” (mistral) wind in the Zadar canal. It doesn’t cool but it does refresh. I spoke with Neven Stojaković, a man with a marvelous imagination, a man capable of transforming a boring space into a stage of hilarious happenings.

Razgovarala sam s Nevenom Stojakovićem čovjekom čudesne imaginacije, spodobnog preobraziti jedan dosadan prostor u pozornicu urnebesnog zbivanja. Tko je pokrenuo projekt Noć Punog mjeseca? Projekt sam ja pokrenuo, a na ideju me potaknuo prof. Ivo Bavčević koji neke svoje zamisli nije uspio na vrijeme ispričati mom ocu koji je i sam sudjelovao u stvaranju nekih fešti u svoje vrijeme, npr. Kualjske ribarske noći pa je mene počastio svojim lucidnim zamislima. Njegov pun misec posložio sam sa ostalim kockicama koje su bile potrebne za

Who initiated the “Night of the Full Moon” project? I started the project, the idea was influenced by professor Ivo Bačević, he didn’t succeed in telling my father, who, in his time, also participated in organizing local festivals such as the Kali Fisherman Nights, about some ideas that he possessed. I added his ideas about the full moon to the ones I already had and which

pravu stvar. Sve sam to ispričao Dubravku Milinu-Kvisku i dalje smo zajedno to prezentirali tadašnjem dir. TZ grada, a ostalo se uglavnom zna.

were important in the organization of something real. All of this I told to Dubravko (Kvisko) Milin and together we presented our plans at the facility occupied by the Zadar Tourist Association, and the rest is pretty much well known.

Zašto ime Noć punog mjeseca? Dali je to tek dosjetka ili ima neko dublje značenje? Šjor Ivo Bavčević je prvi spomenuo pun mjesec kao izazov, a meni je to bila polazna točka za razradu koncepcije. Sama činjenica da priroda diktira datum manifestacije već je dovoljno intrigantna. Nadalje vezujemo se na povijest pa je idealna prilika da eliminiramo sve što je novo i trendovski, samim time i javnu rasvjetu koja je nadopunjena mjesečevim svijetlom.

Why the name, “Night of the Full Moon”? Is it just a name or does it hold some deeper meaning? Mr. Ivo Bavčević first mentioned the full moon as a challenge of sorts, for me it was the starting point for concept development. The pure fact that nature alone dictates the day of the event is intriguing in itself. Going even further and tying it to history gave us an idyllic opportunity to eliminate everything trendy and new, including all public lighting which is supplemented by natural moon light.

S kojom je namjerom pokrenut projekt? Upravo nekakav bunt prema načinu na koji se to odvijalo zadnjih desetak godina prije Miseca. Bio sam siguran da postoji način da se kao podneblje kvalitetnije predstavimo domaćim i stranim turistima. Nije trebalo biti posebno pametan da bi se spoznalo što se događa oko nas na

With what intention was the project started? As a type of rebellion against the way things developed in the ten years before the “Full Moon”. I was convinced that there was a quality way to present this climate to domestic and foreign tourists. You don’t have to be overly intelligent to realize what’s

turističkom mediteranu, te da su pljeskavice, ćevapi i Milo Hrnić poražavajući sastojci recepta kojeg je zgazilo vrijeme. Mi smo prvi grad u Dalmaciji koji je, bar na jedno večer, u trenutku kada predstavljamo ono što jesmo ili smo to barem nekada bili, internom uredbom zabranili mljeveno meso i ćevape na jednoj manifestaciji.

happening within our touristic reach, where hamburgers, sausages and Milo Hrnić (singer) comprise a devastating recipe which was crushing time.We were the first Dalmatian city, at least for one night, in a moment when we were presenting our true selves or what we once were, to ban ground meat dishes for a specific event.

Koliko je ta ideja zaživjela i kako se razvila? Našli smo se na pravom mjestu, u pravo vrijeme i s pravom idejom. Prva Noć je protekla fenomenalno, izazvala je veliko oduševljenje prisutnih. Već sutradan preslušavajući medije znao sam kako projekt ima budućnost. Vremenom se ideja razrađivala i nadopunjavala, ali je zadržala početnu koncepciju, sličicu iz povijesti kada je Zadar bio grad gospode koji je živio u sretnoj simbiozi sa otocima i zaleđem! Težaci i ribari su trgovali svojim proizvodima u gradu, žene iz Preka su dolazile na vesla u grad po šporku gospodsku robu, prale je, sušile i opet na vesla vraćale natrag u grad.

How has the idea caught on, and how has it developed? We found ourselves in the right place, in the right time and with the right idea. The first “Night of the Full Moon” was phenomenal, and it brought out great enthusiasm from all those that attended. Listening to media reports the next day I knew the project had a future. Over time the idea has expanded, there is more in the offering, however, the initial concept has been kept intact, a historical picture of when Zadar was a city of noblemen living in a happy symbiosis with the islands and the inlands. Land workers and fishermen traded their goods in the city, women from Preko came by row boat for soiled noble laundry, they would wash it, dry it and once again bring it to the city by row boat.

Kao svaki projekt vjerovatno je i ovaj Vaš nailazio na poteškoće u realizaciji? Ništa nije lako, ali svaki se trud isplati. Paralelno sa manifestacijom nastalo je i društvo Propela, u početku isključivo zbog opstanka karnevala u Zadru, a vremenom se društvo involviralo i u ostale aktivnosti u gradu. Igor Bačić, Mladen Masar, Eloiza Dušević, Dubravko Milin – Kvisko, Elvira Košuta i ja sačinjavamo kičmu društva Propela. Ja ih jednostavno moram spomenuti jer bez njih ne bi bilo ni svih tih projekata. Teško je danas pronaći ljude na koje se možeš osloniti i kojima možeš vjerovati a to su upravo oni. Zajedno, svatko u svom segmentu, od početka realiziramo, kako sve ostale, tako i projekt Noć punog miseca. U početku je bilo najteže animirati male turističke zajednice iz Županije ali vremenom su i oni shvatili važnost sudjelovanja na ovakvom predstavljanju najvećih bisera iz riznice zadarskog podneblja. Danas tih problema nema ali uvijek poteškoće postoje. Vremenom je manifestacija postala toliko posjećena da se pojavio veliki broj onih koji su po svaku cijenu željeli na rivi imati ugostiteljski štand i lako zaraditi novce, a da pritom ni po kojim kriterijima tamo nisu pripadali. Taj rat u sjeni

As every project has problems, what type of barriers arose in the process of realization? Nothing is easy, but every effort pays off. Parallel to the manifestation was the founding of the Propela Society, it was formed exclusively to deal with the survival of Carnival in Zadar, over time the society evolved and dealt with other city activities. Igor Bačić, Mladen Masar, Eloiza Dušević, Dubravko Milin (Kvisko), Elvira Košuta and I makeup the backbone of the Propela Society. I am forced to mention them all because without them none of these projects could have been realized. These days it is hard to find people you can count on and who you can believe in, and they are that type of people. Together from the beginning we accomplished every project, each in their own segment, including the “Night of the Full Moon”. In the beginning it was hard to get all the local county tourist associations animated, with time they understood the importance of participating in such an event, participating in the largest pearl of the Zadar region treasury. Those problems no longer exist but there are always other problems to deal with. The event has become so large and so attended that there was a large number of people that would do anything to have their own food stand on the waterfront to make easy money, even if they didn’t fit into the character of the event

traje godinama jer neki ljudi jednostavno ne mogu shvatiti ideju i suštinu ovog projekta koji je globalno i dugoročno komercijalan za naš grad, ali ne i parcijalno i jednokratno za bilo kojeg pojedinca. Apsolutno ništa na rivi te večeri ne smije podsjećati na današnje vrijeme. Nema suncobrana, reklamnih panoa, mljevenog mesa, plastičnih stolica, kokica, gumenih bombona, ni šećerne vune. Taj rat mi kao organizatori dobivamo i da se od početka nismo držali postavljenih pravila, Noć punog miseca danas ne bi bila najveća atrakcija koju pohodi preko 70.000 posjetitelja već bi se opet lagano pretvorila u otrcanu feštu lakih nota i ćevapa od koje smo pobjegli glavom bez obzira. Ja kao kreativna osoba i nemirni duh, naravno, nikad nisam zadovoljan. Težim boljem i drugačijem. Iako naizgled sve izgleda savršeno, ja sam siguran da Noć može biti još bolja i atraktivnija i tu dolazimo do drugog problema, a to ima jednostavno ime: Financiranje projekta. U okvirima zadanih sredstava, uvijek se trudimo otići korak dalje ali i uz najbolju volju to je jednostavno nemoguće jer smo limitirani sredstvima. Vremenom će i naša energija okopniti a pitanje je hoće li se naći dovoljan broj ljudi istog razmišljanja

by any type of standard. This war in the shadows is yearly as some people just refuse to understand the nature of this event, it provides global and long term commercial benefits to our city, and is not for the short term benefit of certain individuals. Absolutely nothing on the waterfront that evening is to remind us of modern times. There are no large sun umbrellas, no advertisements, ground meat, plastic tables, pop corn, sweets or cotton candy. As organizers we have fought this war since the event’s inception, and if we didn’t keep to the initial rules and ideas, the “Night of the Full Moon” would not be what it has become, and that is the largest attraction with over 70,000 visitors. If we had allowed everything it would have become the very thing we were running away from, a banal easy music and hamburger festival. As a creative person and restless soul, I’m never satisfied. I aim for better and different. Even though everything may appear perfect, I am positive the festival can be even better and more attractive, and here we are faced with other problems, and those problems have one name: Project Funding. Within the framework of allocated funds we always try to go one step further, but even with the best intentions it just isn’t possible to do so with limited funds. Time will eat up our energy and there is the question of whether or not we will be able to

koji će moći ako ne boljom onda bar jednakom kvalitetom nastaviti raditi ovakve i slične projekte. Ako u TZ grada ne «progledaju» i ne shvate vrijednost ove manifestacije, morat ćemo, iako nerado, pribjeći sponzorima i tada to više neće biti ista priča.

find the proper amount of people that think the same way, or better, to continue quality work on these types and similar projects. If the Zadar Tourism Association does not begin to realize the value of these manifestations we will have no recourse but to embrace more sponsors, and when it comes to that the story will not be the same anymore.

Suradnja s lokalnim vlastima Dobra. Grad podržava projekt u svakom pogledu i sve gradske institucije surađuju sa nama. Pored gradskih odjela ( komunalci, javne površine, javna rasvjeta i dr.) koji su neizbježni u ovako velikom projektu, a na tako malom prostoru, posebno moram istaknuti tvrtke u vlasništvu grada kao što su Čistoća i Nasadi koji fenomenalno obavljaju sve zadatke. Pored njih u našoj organizaciji su angažirani i mali brodovi koji revno cijelu noć sakupljaju otpatke koji završe u moru. Tu je još i odlična suradnja sa Policijom, Elektrom, vatrogascima, Lučkom upravom i Lučkom kapetanijom. Postoji cijela brigada ljudi koji s nama brinu da sve prođe u najboljem mogućem redu.

What about cooperation with local authorities? It’s good. The city supports the project in every aspect and all city institutions cooperate with us. Alongside city departments (communal, public spaces, public lighting, etc...) which are indispensable in regards to these types of projects, and on such a small location I have to especially point out city owned companies such as the Sanitation Department and City Parks Department, who do their job phenomenally well. Next to their hard work are the small boats organized by us to constantly gather any garbage that might end up in the sea. There is also our excellent collaboration with the Police and Fire Departments, The Electric Company, and the Port Authority. In all an entire brigade to insure and worry about that everything comes off in the best possible fashion.

Noć punog mjeseca je danas prepoznatljiv brend. Koliko je vezan za Zadar a koliko mobilnog karaktera (mogućnost da se preseli u neki drugi grad)? Mislim da je svima jasno da je ljeto u Zadru već nezamislivo bez ove manifestacije, iako bi se formula uspjeha mogla primijeniti bilo gdje u Dalmaciji jer bliža povijest ovih prostora

The Night of the Full Moon is now a recognizable brand. How much is it tied to Zadar? How mobile is it in character? Is there a possibility to move the event to another city? I think it is obvious to everyone that summer in Zadar is inconceivable without this manifestation, even though the same formula for success

je vrlo slična, ako ne i ista. Iako je to projekt društva Propela, zaštićen u Zavodu za zaštitu autorskih prava u Zagrebu, teško da Noć punog miseca može napustiti Zadarsku rivu. Tu se ideja rodila i tu joj je mjesto, unatoč problemima sa TZ grada koja je doživljava kao «usvojeno dijete». Siguran sam da će u budućnosti i oni shvatiti koliko je važnije imati svoje, originalne i autentične projekte od kupovine gotovih programa. Naravno da nisam protiv uvoznih programa jer je nemoguće osmisliti i bazirati jedno ljeto isključivo na svom proizvodu ali vrednovanje projekata je nesrazmjerno. Evo samo jedan mali primjer. Nakon nedavnog spektakla na Forumu, svi smo bili svjedoci, za moj pojam, neprimjerenog i potpuno nepotrebnog vatrometa. Jose Carreras, koji je «vatromet» u svom fahu, ne zaslužuje taj, u najmanju ruku, malograđanski čin. U trenutku kada se borimo za svaku kunu da uopće realiziramo jedan mali dio ideja koje nam se roje u glavama, nije moralno ni etično tako olako i apsolutno bespotrebno spržiti tisuće kuna i pretvori ih u pepeo koji simbolično padne u vodu i more! Kakva je suradnja s drugim regijama i županijama, i koliki je njihov interes za sudjelovanjem na ovoj manifestaciji? Ova manifestacija od samog početka ugošćuje razne zanimljive udruge, folklorne skupine i povijesne zanimljivosti iz cijele zemlje. Prodefiliralo je zadarskom rivom stotine gostiju i skupina. Nadamo da ćemo jednog dana ugostiti i Rapske streličare i Morešku ali s ovim sredstvima to je trenutno nemoguće. Što se tiče izlagača koji dolaze izvan naše regije tu već imamo malih problema sa kapacitetom prostora u koji ih primamo. Interes je ogroman a prezentacije starih obrta i zanata, suvenira i delikatesa dobro su došli. Naravno da radimo i selekciju među njima kako bi zadržali razinu i kvalitetu ponude. Iako nam je primarna prezentacija zadarske regije, na ovaj način upoznajemo naše goste i s onim krajevima Hrvatske u kojima još nisu bili. Kakav je odaziv sudionika (mjesta, pojedinaca i sela) i kakva su iskustva u suradnji s njima? Stankovci, Paljuv, Radovin, Debeljak, Lišane Ostrovičke, Benkovac, Škabrnja, Polača, Popovići, Raštane, Poličnik, Nadin, Vukšić, Galovac, Novigrad, Posedarje, Vinjerac, Lovinac, Vir, Vrsi, Nin, Privlaka, Petrčane, Kožino, Bibinje, Sukošan, Turanj, Dobropoljana, Pašman, Tkon, Kukljica, Kali, Preko, Ugljan, Sali, Iž, Silba, Vela Rava, Pag, Diklo….možda sam nekoga i propustio. Odaziv je odličan, ali kako je datum punog mjeseca gotovo uvijek različit tako se ponekad preklopimo s feštama ili svetkovinama pojedinih mjesta pa oni te godine izostanu.

could be applied anywhere in Dalmatia, because the close history of the entire area is very similar, if not the same. The project is an idea of the Propela Association and is protected by the institution for author’s rights located in Zagreb, so it would be pretty hard for this event to leave the Zadar waterfront. The idea was born here and this is its home, and in spite of our problems with the Zadar Tourist Association which looks on the project as an “adopted child”. I am positive that one day they will understand just how important it is to have your own original and authentic event, instead of the ready to go store bought programs. I am not saying that I am against foreign programs, it would be impossible to base a whole summer solely on domestic projects, however the value between such events is incalculable. Here is just a small example. After the recent spectacle on the Forum we were witness to, in my opinion, an unsuitable and totally needless fireworks display. Jose Carerras brought enough “fireworks” to our city, and he did not deserve that small town performance. At a time when we are fighting for every “kuna” (Croatian currency) to realize even the smallest idea that pops into our head, it is immoral and unethical to absolutely burn thousands of kunas, turning them into ash, symbolically falling into water and our sea! How is your relationship with other regions and counties, and what is their interest in such a manifestation? Since its inception this event has hosted many interesting associations, folk groups and historical curiosities from throughout the country. Hundreds of guests and groups have marched up and down the Zadar waterfront. We hope to one day be host to the archers of Rab and the Moreška sword dancers, but at this time funding prohibits this. In regards to the exhibitors that come from outside of our region, there arises a small problem due to the capacity of the space available to them. Interest is great and the presentation of old crafts and trades, souvenirs and delicacies are more than welcome. Of course we pick and choose among them to insure that the high level and quality stay the same. Even though we primarily present the Zadar region, in this way we let our guests get to know other Croatian regions in which they have not been. What is the response of those that have participated (places, individuals, villages) and what is it like working with them? Stankovci, Paljuv, Radovin, Debeljak, Lišane Ostrovičke, Benkovac, Škabrnja, Polača, Popovići, Raštane, Poličnik, Nadin, Vukšić, Galovac, Novigrad, Posedarje, Vinjerac, Lovinac, Vir, Vrsi, Nin, Privlaka, Petrčane, Kožino, Bibinje, Sukošan, Turanj, Dobropoljana, Pašman, Tkon, Kukljica, Kali, Preko, Ugljan, Sali, Iž, Silba, Vela Rava, Pag, Diklo…maybe I left someone out.

Suradnja je izvrsna, svi oni se trude na najbolji mogući način predstaviti svoje mjesto. Kroz kulturu, gastronomiju i običaje. Dolaze sa svojim KUD-ovima, donose prave male etno muzeje, dekoriraju štandove sa voćem i povrćem, na licu mjesta pripremaju vrhunska i često zaboravljena jela. Svi su toliko srdačni i ljubazni i uživaju od prvog do zadnjeg trenutka. Hrana je toliko raznovrsna da mnogi gosti moraju dobro promisliti što će odabrati te večeri. U početku se hrana uglavnom dijelila besplatno i morali smo ih uvjeravati da to ne rade jer bi za pola sata ostali bez svega, što nije dobro za festival. Danas, koliko god dobro da se pripreme i kakve god da su cijene uvijek redovno u kasnim satima ostanu bez ičega. Traži se dagnja ili puž više jer svake godine manifestacija započinje sve ranije popodne i sve više ljudi hrli na rivu. Nitko od njih ne plaća nikakvu kotizaciju za štandove jer samim time što su došli u svom najboljem izdanju, oni su i preplatili svoje sudjelovanje što je nama kao organizatorima najveća nagrada. Zadrani, domaći i strani turisti oduševljeni su bogatstvom ponude i odlaze prepuni dojmova i krcatih kartica u svojim foto aparatima. Kakvi su daljnji planovi? Prostora, naravno, uvijek ima, ideje su već u glavama samo ih treba pustiti da izađu vani. Čak i nakon 9 godina organizacija jednog ovakvog projekta, onaj slijedeći zahtjeva vrijeme, rad i strpljenje. Da bi tih desetak sati sve bilo na svom mjestu, potreban je višemjesečni rad. Promidžba, mediji, press- konferencije, kontakti sa svim sudionicima, telefoni, faksevi, mailovi, dozvole, osiguranje, toaleti, struja, štandovi, rasvjeta, podvodna rasvjeta, čistoća, sastanci, dogovori, policija, saobraćaj, parkinzi, program, klape, voditelji, inspicijenti, pozornice, scenografija, ozvučenje, brodovi, vremenska prognoza, reprezentacija, vip gosti, strani i domaći novinari, magarci, koze, kokoške i ne znam što još sve, ali sve to treba dogovoriti i primjereno posložiti. Svi problemi nestanu kada se pojavi mjesec jer tada znamo da je sve u redu. Priča o mjesecu, priča je o zadarskoj povijesti, priča o bogatstvu naše ponude, priča o vlajima i bodulima, priča o Hitchkoku i potrazi za njegovom kćerkom iz navodne veze sa misterioznom sobaricom iz hotela Zagreb,……sve je to Noć punog miseca u Zadru. Dogodine je deseta godina i ideja ne nedostaje a hoće li se ostvariti ovisi samo o tome koliko ćemo razumijevanja imati u TZ grada. Nadamo se da će ovo naše dite Zadarsko dostojno proslaviti svoj deseti rođendan.

The response is phenomenal, how every Full Moon festival falls on a different date sometimes we overlap with other festivals or other church holidays of individual villages, in that case they do not participate. Cooperation is outstanding, everyone tries their hardest to present their area in the best possible way - through culture, food and tradition. They arrive with their folklore groups, they bring along small ethno museums, they decorate their stands with fruits and vegetables, and they prepare excellent and often forgotten delicacies. They are all very kind and friendly and they enjoy themselves from beginning to end. The food is so diverse that many guests have to choose wisely. In the beginning the food was free, we had to convince them not to do this because all the supplies would disappear in a half hour, which in no way is good for a festival. Even today, no matter how much they prepare and no matter how much they charge, by the end of the evening they run out of everything. They always look for more mussels or snails because every year the festival begins earlier and earlier, which means there are more and more people descending to the waterfront. No one pays a participation fee for their stands, they more than pay for their place through their exhaustive preparation, in fact in that way they have overpaid which for us as organizers is the greatest reward. Local residents, domestic and foreign tourists are delighted with the rich offering and they leave overfilled with positive impressions and cameras filled with pictures. What are your further plans? There is always space to improve, ideas are in our heads and we just have to let them out. Even after 9 years of organizing this type of project, the next one always requires time, hard work and patience. For those ten hours to go off as planned several months of hard work is needed. Promotion, media, press conferences, contact with all the participants, telephone calls, faxes, e-mails, permits, insurance, portable toilets, electricity, stands, lighting, underwater lighting, sanitation, meetings, agreements, police, traffic, parking, program, singing groups, hosts, stages, stage sets, sound systems, boats, weather forecast, representations, V.I.P. guests, foreign and domestic journalists, donkeys, goats, chickens and who knows what else, all of that has to be organized and agreed upon. All problems fade away when the full moon appears, only then do we know that everything is ok. The story of the moon is the story of Zadar’s history, a story about the riches that we offer, a story about inland and island people, a story about Hitchcock and his search for his daughter from a supposed affair with a mysterious cleaning woman from Hotel Zagreb,….all of that is The Night of the Full Moon in Zadar. Next year is the tenth year and ideas are never ending, their realization depends on how much understanding we will get from Zadar’s Tourism Association. We all hope that our child of Zadar will celebrate its tenth birthday with dignity.

MILLENNIUM JUMP Piše / Text by IGOR GLUIĆ Fotografije / Photos by Arhiva MILLENNIUM JUMP ZLATO I SREBRO

Neno, od kuda ideja da tisuću - dvije ljudi u jednom trenutku zajedno, držeći se za ruke, skoči u more? Jednu zimsku večer... (Sve bajke započinju ovim riječima. op.u) u vrijeme kada se na rivi može sresti tek poneki zalutali stranac, pas bez uzice i prof. Pavuša Vežić, šetali smo moj prijatelj Mladen Masar-Sarma i ja, razmišljajući kako poboljšati priču oko Noći punog miseca. Nezgodne proporcije rive koje su nam stalno stvarale problem u jednom trenutku su u našoj glavi postale pravo blago, ali za posve drugu stvar. Za ludost kasnije nazvanu Millennium jump.

Neno, how did you come upon the idea to have over a thousand people, holding hands, jump into the sea at the same time? One winter evening...(all fairy tales begin this way - editor), at a time when on the Riva waterfront there are few foreigners, Pavuša Vežić, a dog not on a leash, I was walking with my friend Mladen Masar-Sarma, thinking about how the story around the Night of the Full Moon could be enriched. The awkward proportions of the waterfront that always seemed to cause problems turned in a split second, in our minds, into a real treasure, but for a totally different purpose.

Tu večer nam se sve otvorilo u glavama, smislili smo način kako tih 1100 metara staviti u funkciju najjednostavnije i najblesavije manifestacije u povijesti. Bila je to jedna inspirirajuća noć u kojoj nam je samo nedostajao Lobel (pok. Lobel Nižić, glumac Kazališta lutaka i dobri duh svake akcije u Zadru. Op.u), jer tko zna kako bi sve to završilo. Uglavnom narednih mjeseci ideja se razradila, stavili smo sve na papir i potpuno uvjereni u uspjeh krenuli u polaganu realizaciju.

The madness that would go on to be called The Millennium Jump. That evening everything became clear in our heads, we came up with a way to put that 1100 meters into function for the simplest and silliest event in history. That was one inspirational night; the only thing missing was Lobel (the late Lobel Nižić, puppet theater actor and soulful friend to all Zadar manifestations - editor). Who knows how things might have ended up? The next several months the idea was developed, we put everything down on paper and totally convinced of our success we proceeded with realization of our plans.

Sjećam se tog vremena. Zar se nije pričalo kako će to biti Jump for Guinnes? Točno. Prva ideja je uistinu bila da se projekt zove Jump for Guinness, i to nas je dugo držalo. Bili smo uvjereni kako ćemo lakoćom privoliti ekipu oko Guinnessa da nas uvrsti u tu čarobnu knjigu. Putem interneta uspostavili smo kontakt, TZ županije uplatila je potrebnih 600 USD, ispunili smo sve formulare za prijavu i konačno na tastaturi kliknuli Send! Odgovor smo čekali dugo, predugo. Vrijeme je prolazilo, već je bio svibanj i onda me jednog dana nazvao Sarma i glasom

I remember that time period. Wasn’t there some talk that it was going to be called Jump for Guinness? Exactly. The initial idea was for the project to be called Jump for Guinness, that held us for a long time. We were convinced that we would be able to entice the Guinness team to find a place for us in their magical book. We made contact with them across the Internet, the Zadar Tourist Association paid the required 600 dollars, we filled out all the needed applications and clicked send on the keyboard. We waited a long time for an answer, too long. Time was running out, it was already May, one day my friend

punim nevjerice promrmljao: « Frend, odjebali su nas!» Nisam mogao vjerovati, nije mi bilo jasno o kakvim se to kriterijima sada radi, Sarma je odmah odustao što se kasnije pokazalo ispravnim, ali ja jednostavno to nisam mogao prihvatiti. Odlučio sam opet poslati još sadržajniji i detaljniji dopis sa 3D simulacijama i fotografijama. I opet smo čekali…i čekali…i čekali…sve dok i sam nisam shvatio kako to više nema smisla. Promijenio sam ime u Millennium jump i tako je ostalo.

Sarma called and mumbled unbelievably: “they fucked us over my friend!” I couldn’t believe it, I wasn’t sure about what types of criteria were at work, Sarma immediately backed off which later on proved to be for the best, but I just couldn’t accept it. I decided to send an even more detailed plan with 3-D simulations and photographs. And again we waited...and waited....and waited....until I realized that there was no sense in waiting anymore. I changed the name to Millennium Jump and that’s been the name ever since.

Je li im danas žao, ili je to samo naš uvjetni refleks kojim se branimo? Neposredno nakon što je prvi Jump eksplodirao na Zadarskoj rivi i nakon što su snimke u 24 sata obišle svijet, kontaktirali su nas iz Guinnessa i ponudili suradnju.

Are they sorry today, or is that just our knee jerk reflex to defend them? Immediately after the first explosive jump on the Zadar Riva, and after footage shot around the world in the next 24 hours, the Guinness people contacted us and offered to work with us.

Nije moguće! Je, je, ali tada smo se mi njima zahvalili i odlučili dalje nastaviti sami. Shvatili smo dugoročnu važnost Jumpa, kao jedinstvenog projekta, u odnosu « na ono malo punata» koliko nosi pojavljivanje sitnim slovima u Guinnessovoj knjizi rekorda.

That’s not possible! Yes, yes, but then we thanked them for their interest and decided to continue on our own. We understood the long term importance of the Jump as a unique project in regards to what our appearance in small type in Guinness’ book of records would be. How has the entire project further developed? The initial and fundamental idea was in the words of Enio Meštrović: “Total lunacy!” The second aspect was the ecological character of the project. Alongside the need to point out the phenomenon of dangerous algae in the Adriatic, we wanted to mark the end of the large scale project undertaken by the City of Zadar, and the Croatian

Kako se cijela stvar dalje razvijala? Prva i osnovna ideja je bila, što bi Enio Meštrović rekao: «Totalna zajebancija!» Drugi aspekt je ekološki karakter projekta. Pored potrebe da se naglasi problem pojave opasnih algi u Jadranu htjeli smo i obilježiti završetak radova na velikom projektu Grada Zadra, tvrtke Odvodnja i Hrvatskih voda, koji je kružnim

kanalizacijskim prstenom oko grada omogućio potpuno čisto more u cijeloj okolici grada. Taj podatak nam donosi činjenicu da je Zadar jedini veći grad u Dalmaciji a i šire, gdje je u samom centru moguće kupanje, a to, moramo priznati, nije mala stvar. Humanitarni karakter je treći i ništa manje bitan segment. Naime, svi koji sudjeluju u skokovima participiraju sa 20,00 kn pa je u tri godine sakupljeno je 72.200,00 kn. Tim je sredstvima, na našu inicijativu, pokrenuta posebna škola plivanja za djecu s poteškoćama u razvoju dječjeg vrtića Latica. Danas, tri godine kasnije, preko trideset malih ljudi koji su imali strah od vode i mora, naučilo je plivati i bit ćemo najsretniji kada oni uskoro budu mogli sudjelovati u našim skokovima na rivi. Pa to je nalik na pravu urbano osvještenu bajku? Vratit ću se, za trenutak, na početak svega. Dvije tisuće i pete, dvije godine prije nego smo se uopće obratili Guinnessu, Sarma, Kvisko i ja pripremili smo sve materijale i sazvali sastanak u TZ grada svih institucija koje su trebale biti uključene u projekt. Puna soba ljudi: predstavnici turizma, grada, policije, lučke uprave, odvodnje, čini mi se kako je i portir bio unutra, itd. Krenem ja sa prezentacijom, nisam došao ni do pola, kada me je prekinuo Grgo Peronja, direktor Odvodnje, ovim riječima: « Sve je to lipo, ali ti Neno sigurno ne znaš da na rivi trenutno još postoje 5 kanalizacijskih ispusta i da bi neki zadarski novinar jedva dočekao da u sutrašnjim novinama ispiše naslov, «Milenijski skok u govna!» Sve je stalo, osjećao sam se kao da me velika ledena kugla pogodila ravno u čelo! Ostali smo bez teksta. Počeli su padati prijedlozi i ideje da se skače, više nemam pojma, oko Borika i sl., ili npr. zamoliti stanare na poluotoku da taj dan ne idu na wc. Ipak, znao sam da moramo sve staviti u ladicu i čekati još dvije godine da se završi projekt pročišćavanja mora. Tako je i bilo. Radili smo mnoge druge stvari, Jump je čekao modru dubinu.

Water Works and Sewage Treatment companies. The circling canalization ring around the city peninsula allowed for cleaner sea waters in the immediate city regions. This particularity points out the fact that Zadar is the only larger city in Dalmatia and wider area where swimming in the immediate city vicinity is possible, and we have to admit that something like that is no small feat. The humanitarian character is the third and no less important segment. Everyone that participates in the jump pays a small fee of 20 Kunas and in three years we have raised 72,200 Kunas. These funds, on our initiative, were used to start a special swimming school for children with special developmental problems in the Latica day care center. Three years later over 30 young people with fear of water and the sea have learned how to swim, and we’ll be even happier when one day they will be able to participate in one of our future jumps. That resembles a real, true to form urban fairytale? I’m going to return, just for a moment, to when it all began. In 2005, two years before we even contacted Guiness, Sarma, Kvisko (Dubravko Milin) and I prepared all the needed material and arranged a meeting at the Zadar Tourist Association for all the institutions that were to be a part of the project. A room filled with people: tourism representatives, city officials, the police, harbor management, the sanitation department, I believe even the porter was inside, etc... I started with the presentation, I didn’t get even halfway through when I was interrupted by Grgo Peronja, the managing director of the Water Sewage Treatment company: “that’s all very nice, but Neno surely you know that on the city waterfront there are currently 5 sewer drainpipes, and that every local journalist would hardly wait to put the following headline in the next day’s paper, “Millennium Jump into shit!” Everything came to a halt, I felt like I got hit in the forehead

Znači tek kada je gradski drek krenuo u suprotnom pravcu od rive vi ste opet krenuli? Sve je u početku bilo toliko ružičasto da je bilo samo pitanje trenutka gdje će sve zapeti a zapelo je. Početkom 2007. pokazali smo projekt tadašnjem ministru turizma Božidaru Kalmeti, doministru Zdenku Mičiću i gradonačelniku Živku Kolegi. Svima je to bilo onako simpatično, ali mislim da su istog trenutka kada smo izašli iz prostorije na sve zaboravili. Bili smo u potrazi za novcima, obišli sve potencijalne sponzore u zemlji ali ništa, nitko se nije ni približno zainteresirao. Kako smo upravo tih dana dobili i ranije spomenutu pedalu od Guinnessa, ostali smo sami na svijetu, a datum Skoka se neumoljivo približavao. Čak su mi i najbliži suradnici posustajali, ali ja sam toliko vjerovao u sve da nije bilo govora o povlačenju. Krenuli smo na blef, pa što bude. Kampanja je bila odlična, svi su govorili samo o Jumpu i kada smo krenuli sa prijavama uslijedio je novi šok. Nakon 7 dana prijavilo se tek 300-tinjak ljudi. Dva dana prije skoka na koji nam je najavilo dolazak 20 najjačih medija u zemlji, nedostajalo nam je 1200 ljudi. To jutro, dan prije svega, prvi put sam se zapitao jesmo li normalni kad smo očekivali da ćemo uspjeti natjerati 1500 ljudi da bez razloga skaču u more?! Pojačali smo reklamu a ja sam već ozbiljno razmišljao pozvati u pomoć vojsku, škole, policiju, vatrogasce..., bilo koga da spasi stvar. Ne znam ni sam kako smo dočekali večer, valjda smo bili prezauzeti ostalim pripremama pa nismo više razmišljali o tome, ali točno se sjećam trenutka kada mi je, dok smo oko 23 sata rukom ispisivali brojeve po rivi, zazvonio mobitel, i kada mi je Goga (Gordana Štorić) vrišteći javila s Trga kako se te večeri prijavilo preko 1000 ljudi. Zadrani, što nam to radite?! Bio je to trenutak neopisive sreće.

with a big ball of ice! We were without words. Suggestions and ideas for the jump to be made in other locations like Borik and the like, or to ask residents of the city to not go to the bathroom the day of the jump. In the end I knew that I had to put everything back in the drawer and on hold, and wait another two years for the water treatment project to be completed. And that’s what we did. We worked on many other things, The Jump waited in the dark blue depths. So that means that only when the city waste started flowing away from the waterfront did you start anew? In the beginning everything was rose-colored and it what just a question of when something would hamper us, and hamper us it did. At the beginning of 2007 we presented our project to the then Minister of Tourism, Božidar Kalmeta, Deputy Minister Zdenko Mičić and Mayor Živko Kolega. They all seemed to like the plan, however, I believe that once we left the room they forgot all about it. We were looking for funding, we visited every potential sponsor in the country and came up empty, no one was really interested. About the same time we also got shafted by Guinness, we were alone in the world, and the day of the Jump was relentlessly getting closer. Even some of my closest associates got tired of it all, but I believed in the project so much I didn’t want to hear a word about calling it off. We called everyone’s bluff and let the chips fall as they would. The drive was great, everyone was talking about the Jump and when we began with the sign-ups a new shock set in. After 7 days only 300 or so people had signed up. Two days

I, na što je nalikovao taj prvi Millennium jump? Na nešto veličanstveno, svi su skakali: I zadrani, i turisti, i poznati i nepoznati, svi su tog popodneva bili isti, onako goli u mudantama, bez maski, bez obilježja, bez premišljanja, sa celulitom i ožiljcima, svi su bili sretni kao mala djeca, držali su se za ruke čekajući upute. Čak i oni koji su komentirali da što će oni plaćati ulaz na rivu, da jesmo li mi normalni, da kakve su to pizdarije, da što to nama treba i zašto bez veze trošimo lovu, da zašto i kome prodajemo maglu itd, itd, čak su se i oni držali za ruke jer su taj dan bili očišćeni od svega, taj dan nisu mislili ni o čemu, bili su jedno, bili su trijezni a opijeni. Bili su sretni da sudjeluju u nečem što ih je ispunilo od glave do pete, onom vrstom osjećanja na koje su zaboravili da u njima još postoji. Sve što se dogodilo tog popodneva smo predvidjeli osim tog trenutka ushita koji nas je sve skupa preplavio i podsjetio koliko u stvari vrijedimo i koliki nam je talog svakodnevnice na duši. Bio je to jedan od najljepših dana u mom životu. Sponzori koji su do tada sve promatrali iza ugla, osjetili su svoj trenutak? Nakon što je Zadar sa Jumpom preplavio sve medije, i nakon što se zavrtio na preko 300 svjetskih portala i dvadesetak svjetskih TV kuća, posve je razumljivo da su se malo ozbiljnije zainteresirali i oni, a to nam je uvelike olakšalo organizaciju. Silvija Surać, naša vrijedna »trčizaparamakoka» povezala nas je sa tvrtkom DM koja je prva prepoznala Jump i sa kojom imamo izvrsnu suradnju.

before the event, with 20 of the largest media outlets arriving, we were 1200 people short. That morning, just a day before it all, I began to question myself and our intentions of gathering 1500 people to jump in the water for no rhyme or reason. We stepped up the advertising and I was seriously beginning to think about seeking the help of the army, schools, police, fire department…, anyone that could help save the event. I don’t even remember how we awaited the night, I guess we were too caught up in the preparations that we didn’t even think about it, but I remember the exact moment, around eleven at night, when we were still writing the position numbers on the waterfront and my cell phone rang, it was Goga (Gordana Štorić) calling from the town square, yelling into the phone she told how over 1000 people had signed up that night. Zadar, what are you doing to us?! It was a moment of indescribable happiness. What did that first Millennium Jump resemble? It was something majestic, everyone jumped: local Zadar people, tourist, the famous and non-famous, that afternoon everyone was the same, naked aside from their bathing suits, without any masks, labels, indecision, with all their cellulite and scars, everyone was happy like little children, holding hands waiting for instructions. Even those that said: we were crazy for charging entrance to the waterfront, we

Naravno da bih bio sretniji da se ovaj naš projekt zove «Zadar Millennium jump» a ne «DM Millennium jump», ali vremena nisu takva, i bez sponzora se jednostavno ne može. Grad Zadar je ove godine pripomogao i spasio projekt, jer po Turističkoj zajednici grada sve se moglo urušiti kao kula od karata. Iako su prvu godinu oni podnijeli najveći teret financiranja upravo mi je neugodno i spomenuti koliko su participirali ove godine. Ali valjda će se i to promijeniti, ako ni zbog čega onda zbog onog trenutka ushita i zbog onih klinaca iz Latice koji strpljivo čekaju u redu za naučiti plivati. Sretni smo da projekt ide dalje, da su ga ljudi prihvatili. Dokaz tome je i zajednički stav svih Zadarskih medija, koji su kao jedan bili dio svega, da bez razmišljanja prihvate projekt kao »naš zadarski». Kako razmišljaš sada, na kraju početaka, o svemu? Jump je vremenom postao naš mali turistički tetris koji će nam donijeti još toliko osmjeha na licima. Svi mi koji živimo u ovom

weren’t normal, what type of bullshit was going on, why was this needed and why were we wasting money, why were we pulling the wool over people’s eyes etc…, even they were holding hands because that day they were cleansed of everything, they weren’t thinking of anything else, they were united, and sober but drunk with delight. They were happy to have participated in something that fulfilled them from head to toe, the type of feeling that many forgot still existed. Everything that happened that afternoon we envisioned, everything except for the moment of rapture that washed over us all, reminding us just how valuable we are and how much the dregs of everyday life hold down our spirit. It was one of the most beautiful days of my life. All the sponsors that were hiding around the corner finally saw their chance? After Zadar flooded the media following the Jump, and after the event ended up on over 300 international Internet

gradu kao da još nismo u dovoljnoj mjeri svjesni ni što su to zapravo Nikine Orgulje i Sunce, i kakav je to Perpetum mobile taj genijalac napravio. Pa ta naša Gradska knjižnica, pa nova dvorana i bazen, pa sutra Luka Gaženica. Nama se u Zadru događaju čudesne priče i svi mi, po navici, mislimo kako je to normalno, ali dragi moji, to nije normalno! To su svjetske stvari i to što se događaju u našem dvorištu ne znači da nisu vrijedne pažnje. Valja se osvrnuti, napraviti nešto dobro nekome do sebe, i unatoč sivim naslovnicama jutarnjih novinskih izdanja, osjećat će mo se jedinstveno, vjerujte mi.

portals and over 20 international television stations, it’s quite understandable that they started to take a more serious interest, which in turn made organizing the event much easier. Silvija Surać, our faithful “runaroundformoneygirl” connected us the DM company, they were the first ones to recognize our project and we have an outstanding relationship with them. Of course, I would be even happier if our project was called “Zadar Millennium Jump” and not “DM Millennium Jump”, however, this is not that type of time, without sponsors nothing can be done. This year the City of Zadar helped out and saved the project, they did so because everything could have collapsed like a house of cards thanks to the Zadar Tourist Association. Even though they financed the majority of the first jump, it’s kind of embarrassing for me to mention how much they helped out this year. That will probably change over time, if not for anything else than for the moment of sheer delight and because of the kids from Latica patiently waiting in line to learn how to swim. We are content that the project is continuing, that the people have accepted it. The proof of that is the joint position adopted by the Zadar media, they were a part of everything, and without any thought accepted our project as being “Zadar’s”.

Želio si nešto dodati, na kraju? Igor, Ella, Silvija, Sarma, Kvisko, Elvira, Goga, Sanja i još mnogi drugi koji su skupa s nama radili na ovom projektu, skupa samnom, Millennium Jump smo posvetili čovjeku koji bi se, radeći na njemu, veselio kao dijete sladoledu – našem dragom Lobelu Nižiću.

What do you think about it all know, at the end of the beginning? The Jump, over time, has become our small touristic tetris which will only bring more smiles to people’s faces. All of us that live in this city are still not fully aware of the value of Nikola Bašić’s Sea Organ and Tribute to the Sun, and what type of Perpetuum mobile (perpetual motion) this genius created…or the value of our City Library, our new arena and swimming pool, and our future port in Gaženica. For those of us here in Zadar miraculous stories are taking place, and all of us, by habit, are acting like everything is normal, but my dear friends, it is not normal! These are worldly happenings, just because something is taking place locally does not mean it should not merit attention. It’s worth looking around, to do something for those around you, and in spite of all the morning newspaper headlines we would all feel more unique, believe me. Would you like to add something in the end? Igor, Ella, Silvija, Sarma, Kvisko, Elvira, Goga, Sanja and the many others that helped and worked on the project, along with me, dedicated The Millennium Jump to the one person, if he got a chance to work on it, that would have been as happy as a kid with ice cream – our dear Lobel Nižić.

Na izložbi upriličenoj za NOĆ PUNOG MISECA, autor Jerolim Vulić izložio je na gradskom bedemu i ovu fotografiju. Jednu od najmoćnijih fotografija zadarske fotografske scene, od pojave braće Brkan do danas. For an exhibition intended for THE NIGHT OF THE FULL MOON, author Jerolim Vulić displayed this photograph on the city ramparts. It is one of the most powerful photographs of the Zadar photography scene since the arrival of the Brkan brothers.

Dr. ZVONIMIR VRANČIĆ Gradonačelnik Zadra MAYOR OF THE CITY OF ZADAR

oš do prije desetak godina Zadar se doživljavao kao tranzitni dio regije. Turizam se dešavao okolo u regiji, u gradu je bio tek simbolički prisutan. Zadar je ljeti bio gotovo pust grad s nešto malo šušura oko podneva i u večernjim satima. Turisti su se slijevali u grad, ali tek kao u povijesno središte regije. Obilazili su se muzeji i zbirke, restorani... Malo gužve na Kalelargi, i to je bilo sve. I kako se desio ovaj turistički bum, jer činjenica je da je Zadar ovoga ljeta bio top destinacija u Evropi? Bilo bi prepotentno kazati kako smo sve to isplanirali, ali, ipak, ovo što se ovo ljeto desilo rezultat je niza organiziranih detalja. Ispred svega, Zadar je konačno i na primjeren način prometno povezan s Evropom. Bez prometne infrastrukture sve bi bilo upitno. Može li se kazati kako je sve počelo s Morskim orguljama? Orgulje i Sunce arhitekta Nike Bašića su fenomen ovog grada i kao brand svakako jedan od najvećih turističkih mamaca. Posjetici našeg grada, bilo turisti bilo da se radi o poslovnim ljudima, naprosto žele biti sudionici dnevnog pulsa tih fenomena. Ali, želim nešto istaknuti. Odluka gradskih vlasti od početka je bila da ukupna gradska jezgra djeluje kao jedinstvena turistička destinacija. Željeli smo, i mislim kako smo to postigli, da dešavanja u gradu ne budu konzumnog tipa, kao npr. organizirati festivale i prodavati karte. U tom slučaju turist je samo broj na sjedištu. Mi smo se odlučili na oblik turističke ponude u kojoj će posjetioci, odnosno gosti našeg grada biti i sudionici i konzumenti ljetnih predstava.

Until ten or so years ago Zadar was perceived as a

transit portion of the entire region. Tourism happened on its outskirts, within the confines of the city it was only symbolically represented. Zadar was for the most part a ghost town during summer months, with tourist action happening only around noon and in the evening hours. Tourists poured into the city, but only as visitors of a historical point in the region. They visited museums, collections, restaurants...a small crowd would gather on the Kalelarga and that would be the end of it all. And just how did this touristic boom come about, it’s a fact that this year Zadar is Europe’s top destination? It would be a little conceited to say that we planned everything, however, what happened this summer is a direct result of a series of well organized details. Before all, Zadar is finally properly connected to Europe transport wise. Without out transport infrastructure such success would be questionable. Would you say that everything began with the Sea Organ? Architect Niko Bašić’s Sea Organ and Tribute to the Sun are a city phenomenon, as a brand they are definitely one of the largest lures for tourists. Visitors to our city, be they tourists or businessmen, want to be a part of general pulse of such a phenomenon. However, I would like to emphasize that the city administration intended for the entire city core to function as a unique tourist destination. We wanted the city experience to be something more than the typical

U tom smislu valja promatrati i golemi uspjeh Noći punog miseca. Na desetke tisuća ljudi slije se u grad tih desetak sati. Naši organizatori, ujedno i autori projekta, postavljaju kulisu i sadržaj preko seoskih etno štandova, ali turisti i domaći posjetioci sami oblikuju razinu svoje zabave. Turizam prodaju autohtone vrijednosti; turisti ih žele vidjeti i u njima aktivno sudjelovati. Millenijum Jump još je ljepši primjer. Grad daje rivu i more, naravno i organizaciju, ali gosti su sudionici tog veselja. Oni ne kupuju akreditaciju kako bi promatrali tuđe veselje, već ga sami kreiraju i sudjeluju u njemu. Pribrojimo tu Varoške fešte koje se u ljetnim mjesecima održavaju svakoga petka, i još mnoštvo toga. Stoga mislim kako je turistički bum koji je Zadar napravio u svojoj urbanoj jezgri proizvod ukupne sinergije puno različitih činjenica. Kako je to u drugim gradovima na Jadranu? Nije primjereno da s ovog mjesta komentiram druge gradove, ali evidentno je kako jedino ljetne zabave u Zadru ne tretiraju turiste kao konzumente već kao one koji čine sadržaj tih zabava. To daje poseban šarm. Naposlijetku ljeto je, i u svakom od nas još živi dijete željno zabave. Naš stari grad kroz te fešte postaje pozornica tog oslobođenog djetinjstva. U zadnjih par godina Zadar je ugostio velike svjetske estradne zvijezde. Ove je godine gost bio slavni tenor Jose Carreras. Naravno kako nam fokus nije isključivo na pučkoj zabavi. Mi smo grad velike tradicije, gusto premrežene u svoj povijesti različitim vrijednostima. Ne dolaze svi naši gosti u povijesnu jezgru samo kako bi uživali u pečenim srdelama. Grad raspolaže s veličanstvenim muzejskim zbirkama, spomenimo samo Stalnu izložbu crkvene umjetnosti.

consumer variety (organizing festivals and selling tickets), and I believe that we achieved this. In those cases tourists are little more than a number on a seat. We decided on a touristic offering for visitors, in other words guests of our city, that would make them participants and consumers of summer events. In that sense it is worth pointing out the enormous success of the „Night of the Full Moon“ festival. Tens of thousands of people poured into the city for those ten hours the festival lasted. The organizers of the project, who are also its author, set the stage and substance of the festival with rustic and ethno-stands, however it is up to our foreign and domestic guests to shape the level of their experience. Through tourism we sell autochthonal values; tourists want to experience them and actively participate in them. The „Millennium Jump“ is an even better example. The city makes the waterfront, sea and entire organization available, but our guests are the main participants in the enjoyment. They don’t by tickets to view someone else’s fun, they create their own entertainment and participate in it. We can add the Varoš neighborhood celebration which during summer months is held every Friday evening, and so much more. So I would say that the touristic boom that Zadar experienced in its urban center is the result of the combined synergy of various influences. How is that in other cities along the Adriatic? It would not be suitable for my position to comment on other cities, however, it is evident that Zadar’s summer events are the only ones that don’t treat their tourists as consumers, but as a key ingredient to the event’s fun. That gives everything a special charm. Ultimately, summer for all of us is a living child yearning for amusement. Through these events our old city becomes the stage for liberated youth.

To nam sugerira i njegovanje drugih sadržaja za naše goste. Carreras je vrhunski brand te činjenice. Ne zaboravimo Glazbene večeri u Donatu koje desetljećima njeguju svoju publiku, Kazališno ljeto, mnoštvo jazz koncerata vrhunske kvalitete. S veseljem smo prihvatili i Garden fest, itd. Sve je to suprotni pol onoga o čemu sam na početku govorio. Nastojimo što raznovrsnijom ponudom učiniti boravak svakom našem gostu u našem gradu nezaboravnim. Mi smo maleni mediteranski gradić u kojem su ulice njegov krvožilni sustav, i red je da na ulicama pulsira svakovrsna zabava: ulični performeri, glazbenici sa svih strana svijeta, mađioničari, glumci, plesači, itd., ali i pučke zabave narodnog veselja, ali i neupitne artističke vrijednosti novoga doba. Jedan od detalja koji se nameće je i sigurnost u gradu. Toliko svijeta na rivi da se čini kako će se polutok nagnuti i potonuti u more, a niti jednog ekscesa. To je činjenica koja nas čini osobito ponosnim. Zadar je izuzetno siguran grad. Primjerice, kada se na Noći punog miseca u malenu gradsku jezgru slije na desetke tisuća ljudi, kada je prava umjetnost, kako i sami kažete, stići s Foruma na rivu, jedva da se zabilježi neki sporadični eksces. Mislim kako je naš grad, po pitanju sigurnosti, bez premca. Naši gosti to znaju, pa je i to još jedan značajan detalj koji se ugradio u sliku našeg grada, praveći od njega jedan od najpoželjnijih turističkih brandova u ovom dijelu Evrope.

In the past several years Zadar has played host to international show business stars. This year, Zadar’s guest was the famed tenor Jose Carreras. Our focus is not entirely based on grass-roots, folk entertainment. We are a city of great tradition, thickly intertwined in a history of diverse values. Not all of our guests come to the city to enjoy grilled sardines. The city is represented by magnificent museum collections, I would like to mention the permanent exhibit of ecclesiastical artwork. This allows us to suggest and nurture other items of interest for our guests. There is no denying that Carreras is a brand name. Let’s not forget the „Musical Evenings in St. Donat“ which has entertained its audience for decades, the Summer Theater Festival, and many high quality jazz concerts. With great enthusiasm we embraced the Garden Festival. All of what I have listed is opposite to what I mentioned in the beginning. We strive to offer a diverse product that will make the stay of everyone of this city’s guests unforgettable. We are a small Mediterranean city whose streets are its lifeline, and the pulse of all types of entertainment should fill the streets: street performers, musicians from all corners of the world, magicians, actors, dancers, etc., as well as folk entertainment for popular amusement, and all the artistic values of a new age. One item of detail that imposes itself is safety within the city. So many people on the waterfront makes it seem that the peninsula is going to tip over and sink into the sea, and yet not one excess to report. That is one fact that makes us especially proud. Zadar is an exceptionally safe city. For example, when tens of thousands of people came to the city during the „Night of the Full Moon“, when making your way from the Forum to the waterfront is a work of art in itself, there was hardly the occasional excess to report. I believe that our city, with regards to safety, is without rival. Our guests know this, and that is one more important detail painted into the picture of our city, making it one of the most desirable brands in this part of Europe.

Millenijum Jump još je ljepši primjer. Grad daje rivu i more, naravno i organizaciju, ali gosti su sudionici tog veselja. Oni ne kupuju akreditaciju kako bi promatrali tuđe veselje, već ga sami kreiraju i sudjeluju u njemu. The „Millennium Jump“ is an even better example. The city makes the waterfront, sea and entire organization available, but our guests are the main participants in the enjoyment. They don’t by tickets to view someone else’s fun, they create their own entertainment and participate in it.

PROTECTED NATURE RESERVES OF THE ZADAR REGION

soline

uvala / bay pantera

otok / island ugljan

otok / island rivanj

zadar

otok / island zverinac

ZAŠTIĆENI DIJELOVI PRIRODE NA PODRUČJU ZADARSKE ŽUPANIJE

SJEVEROZAPADNI DIO DUGOG OTOKA NORTHWESTERN SECTION OF DUGI OTOK

svjetionik / lighthouse veli rat

veli rat

verunić

uvala / bay saharun

SJEVEROZAPADNI DIO

udesna plaža SAHARUN koja se nalazi na sjeverozapadnom djelu Dugog otoka, u blizini svjetionika Veli Rat, proglašena je zaštićenom prirodnom cjelinom još prije prije 42 godine, dok cijeli krajnji sjeverozapad Dugog otoka, danas pod zaštitom Javne ustanove Zadarske županije, ide u red najzanimljivijih i najljepših predjela zadarskog arhipelaga. Ta činjenica proizlazi ponajprije iz svojstva obale koja je na tom području razvedena i raščlanjena kao rijetko gdje, tvoreći jedinstvenu panoramu uvala, zaljeva, poluotoka i uskih prevlaka. Osobita ljepota ovog područja projecira se kroz sliku vegetacije. Tu su zastupljene karakteristične zajednice mediteranskog raslinja: gariga, borovih šumaraka (alepski i crni bor), i makije.

DUGOG OTOKA

Svi koji smo barem jednom prošetali dalmatinskom obalom znamo štošta o mediteranskom raslinju, ali zgodan je odgovor što je to makija. Na pitanje postavljeno jednom prirodoslovcu: Što je, uopće, makija (?), odnosno što je određuje kao neprohodni gustiš, dobio sam čudesan odgovor, otprilike ovako: Makija je prostor gdje se odigrava najveća borba za samoodržanje, u prirodi. Niti jedna biljna zajednica, od njih desetak koje je tvore, ne dozvoljava ostalima da izrastu iznad drugih. Ta žilava borba da se ne dozvoli niti jednoj zajednici da nadvisi ostale, da se izbori za više sunca i da ojača korjenje, jer se zna kako je to početak kraja drugih u zajednici. Upravo očaj i žilavost samoodržanja čini makiju ovakvom kakvu je vidimo! Razvedenost kopna Sjeverozapadnog djela Dugog otoka nasavlja se i pod morem brojnim plićacima, grebenima, itd., koji uvjetuju specifičnu i iznimno bogatu biocenozu (ihtiofaunu, školjke, itd.). Obzirom da je uvala Saharun otvorena južnom vjetru, akumulira sav otpad i nanose trava s otvorenog mora, kao i drugi otpad ljudskog nemara. Nekontrolirano sidrenje brodica i jahti u samoj uvali dodatno je negativno djelovalo na ekološku ravnotežu. Stoga je Javna ustanova za upravljanje zaštićenim dijelovima prirode na području Zadarske županije organizirala kartiranje morske bioraznolikosti te izvršila ispitivanje ugroženosti vrsta izloženih teroru nekontroliranog sidrenja. Kako bi se smanjilo onečišćenje i uveo red postavljeno je 30 bova na za to najprikladnijim mjestima. Unutar područja cijelog sjeverozapadnog dijela Dugog otoka svi su lokaliteti obuhvaćeni hrvatskom ekološkom mrežom, a uspostava ekološke mreže jedan je od preduvjeta ulaska Hrvatske u EU. Prioritetno područje unutar ukupnog akvatorija je veličanstvena pješčana Uvala - Saharun.

marvelous beach located on the northwestern side of Dugi Otok, in the near vicinity of the Veli Rat lighthouse, was already designated a protected nature reserve 42 years ago. The entire uttermost northwestern portion of Dugi Otok is one of the most interesting and beautiful areas of the Zadar archipelago. This fact emerges firstly from the island’s attributes which are separated and divided like nowhere else, composing a unique panorama of inlet, bay, peninsula and narrow isthmus. The remarkable beauty of this area is projected through a picture of vegetation. Represented are characteristic Mediterranean communities of garrigue, Aleppo and Black Pine groves, and „makija“ (dense underbrush). Anyone that has walked the Dalmatian coast at least once is familiar with underbrush, but regarding the question, put to a natural scientist, of what makes up underbrush, or in other words what determines such an impenetrable brush – I received the following answer: Underbrush is the area where nature’s greatest battles for self-preservation take place. Not one of the herbal communities, of the ten or so that form it, allows varieties to outgrow one another. The one that would succeed in reaching higher levels would receive greater sunlight, which in turn would lead to it having stronger roots which would mean the beginning of the end for the other communities. Desperation and resilience of self preservation make underbrush appear exactly as we see it. Impenetrable thickness as the location of self-preservation’s most tenacious battles. The separated land of the island’s northwestern area continues underwater with numerous shoals, reefs, etc., which creates conditions for a specific and exceptionally valuable biocoenosis (ichthyofauna, bivalvia, etc.). Taking into consideration that Saharun Bay is open to southern winds, waste, including sea grass and that of human negligence, accumulates here. The uncontrolled anchoring of boats and yachts has had adverse effects on the ecological balance of the bay. Therefore, public institutions for the management of protected nature reserves in Zadar County have organized the mapping of the areas maritime bio-diversity, they also concluded research regarding endangered species exposed to widespread and uncontrolled anchoring. To reduce pollution and contamination 30 buoys were placed in the most suitable places. Within the entire northwestern portion of Dugi Otok, all localities have been included in the Croatian ecological network. The implementation of such an ecological network is one of the prerequisites for Croatia’s entrance into the European Union. An area of high priority within the entire maritime zone is the majestic, sandy bay of Saharun.

NORTHWESTERN

SECTION OF DUGI OTOK

Čudesna plaža koja se nalazi na sjeverozapadnom djelu Dugog otoka, u blizini svjetionika Veli Rat, proglašena je zaštićenom prirodnom cjelinom još prije prije 42 godine. A magical beach located in the northwestern section of Dugi Otok, in the immediate vicinity of the Veli Rat lighthouse, it was designated a protected nature reserve 42 years ago.

Pla탑a Beach

SAHARUN

K U P U J E M I

S h o p

D A K L E

T h e r e f o r e

J E S A M I

A m

Piše / Text by LILI LOKIN Fotografija/ Photo DUANE HANSON - Woman with a shopping cart

mali KUPCI ili sitni LOPOVI SMALLTIME SHOPPERS OR PETTY THIEVES

U vrijeme kad se još živjelo u zemlji radnika i seljaka, putovali

smo autobusima klimatiziranih propuhom. Nisu nam dijelili bombone; na sjedalima su bile zaljepljene žvake. Ako ste bili student, kondukter bi vam se prijekorno obratio: - Zašto si zalijepio/la žvaku na sjedalo, jel’ tako i kući radiš? - Ali nisam ja, bila je tu... - Da,da, znam ja takve kao što si ti, sve bi upropastili, k’o da im je ćaćino. - Ali nisam ja... Bezuspješno ste se branili. I prije nego ste se raskomotili u svom uskom sjedalu, deklarirani ste kao destruktivac lošeg odgoja i loših higijenskih navika. Sanjali ste tada neki uređeni sustav u kojem bi se znao red, u kojem bi vam se ljubazno obraćali, u kojem bi postojala pravila ponašanja i sankcije za zagađivače okoliša, u kojem vas ne bi proizvoljno optuživali. I, danas, evo nas pod nebom punim kumulusa, gdje se visoko nad našom glavom, poput objave s neba, izdiže logotip trgovačkog centra - savršeno uređenog sustava novog doba. Nakon što ste prošli pored rampe s natpisom «samo za velike kupce» pitajući se o kakvim se točno mjerama radi, i parkirali se na mjestu s oznakom „za male kupce“, ulazite u hram. Ali već na samom ulazu službenica traži deponiranje vaše torbice jer je veća od 20 cm. Uz dužno poštovanje njenom mjeračkom oku i munjevitoj procjeni veličine vaše opreme, ipak ste zbunjeni. Objašnjavate kako u torbicu više ništa ne stane, jedva ste strpali novčanik s osobnim dokumentima i mobitel, i ne biste se od toga odvajali. Takva su pravila - odvraća ona. I odjednom shvaćate. Vi ustvari niste mali kupac već, ni manje ni više - nego potencijalni lopov. Trgovački sustav štiti se od vas u savršenom stilu svoje discount filozofije u kojoj je sve sniženo: i kvaliteta proizvoda, i cijene, i vrijednost ljudi.

In a time when we still lived in a land of day laborers and peasants, we

traveled in buses that were naturally air conditioned. We weren’t given any candy as there was gum already stuck to the seats. If you were a student the conductor would address you scoldingly: - Why did you stick the gum to the seat, is that what you do at home?

- -

But I didn’t, it was already there... Yeah right, I know your type, you would ruin everything, like it was your father’s - But I didn’t... Self defense was impossible. Before you could even get comfortable in the narrow seat, you were branded destructive, of having a bad upbringing and of having even worse hygiene. You could only dream about a more ordered system where there was real law and order, where you were addressed in a more kindly manner, where there were rules of behavior and true sanctions for the real polluters of the environment, a system where you wouldn’t be falsely accused. And here we are now, under a sky filled with cumulous clouds, where high above our heads, like a declaration from the heavens, a shopping center logo reaches for the sky – the perfect and orderly system of a new age. After you have passed the checkpoint labeled „only for major wholesale customers“ – while asking yourself just what types of purchases make someone a major customer, you park your car in the area sectioned off for „small retail customers“ and enter the temple. At the very entrance a female clerk instructs you to hand over your purse as it is larger than 20 cm. With respect to her keen eye and lightning quick ability to scan the size of your belongings you are still quite confused. Trying to explain that nothing more can fit in your handbag besides a wallet and cell phone and that you don’t want to part with it will only get you a sharp answer: -Those are the rules. In a flash you understand. In truth you are not a small retail customer but a potential thief – nothing more and nothing less. The modern commercial system protects itself in perfect style with its discount philosophy where everything is reduced: including the quality

Poput Big Brothera oduzima vam i dio moralne odgovornosti za vlastite postupke, tutorski skrbeći o vašim osobnim stvarima i nepriličnim iskušenjima. Ne, vi niste onaj mezimac kojemu se slatko obraćaju njihove reklamne novine, pored računa, još jedini punjači vašeg poštanskog sandučića. Možete pri tom ispuniti neki listić kao prigovor i protest za kojeg ne znate ni gdje ni kome ide. Onom kondukteru još ste i imali priliku odvratiti pokoju u obranu osobne časti. Bio je to, kakav takav, ipak osoban odnos. Sada ste suočeni s bezličnim sistemom gdje su moćnici nevidljivi, a njihovi službenici potpuno nemoćni. I jedino što vam preostaje je da napustite hram zajedno sa svojom torbicom ili da je deponirate i potom kao disciplinirani kupac obranite svoju nevinost koju ni jednog trenutka niste sami doveli u pitanje. To je učinilo nepovjerenje istih onih koji su vas zvali na sva propagandna zvona.

of products, prices and the intrinsic value of human beings. Like Big Brother, they strip you of a portion of your moral responsibility for personal actions, tutorially watching over your personal belongings and your inappropriate temptations. No, you are not the favorite target of the sweet promises in their advertisements that, along with bills, gets stuffed into your mailbox. If you want you can fill out a small form objecting and protesting to this treatment, but who knows where to or to whom these forms actually go. At least with the conductor you had an opportunity, no matter how fruitless, to defend your personal honor. It was, if nothing less, some type of personal relationship. Now you are engaged with a faceless system where the powerful are invisible, and their employees totally powerless. The only choice you have left with is to leave the temple with your belongings or choose to hand over your personal items like a disciplined little shopper and defend your own innocence for which you never doubted up until that moment. The distrust created by the same ones that summoned you with their chimes of propaganda.

Kultura obilja CULTURE OF ABUNDANCE

I odjednom, eto vas s velikom košarom na kotačićima koju punite stvarima. Hrpa teško razgradive ambalaže obećava dodatni posao selekcije smeća. Jinglovi i reklamne poruke koje vrijeđaju i najskromniji IQ zvone vam u ušima. Upornošću vode koja dubi kamen, vaše dijete ponavlja prvu naučenu riječ – kupi! Nalazite se usred potrošačkog raja. Vi ste protagonist novog duha vremena – konzumerizma. Nekad davno stari je Grk mudrovao i trgovao na gradskom trgu Životni mu je stil bio umjerenost. Dio je to mediteranske i naše tradicije u kojoj su gradska središta bili prostori kulturnog identiteta, mjesta javnog značaja. Novo vrijeme svojom nadirućom bujicom odvlači život iz centra u prostore suburbanih „shopping centara“, mjesta privatnog kapitala kojemu je grad samo teren, životni stil potrošnja. To su artificijelna, bezpovijesna mjesta univerzalne kulture obilja. Tu se na produženom boravku okupljaju cijele obitelji koje uz šoping prakse i navike vežu zabavu i užitak.

And just like that, there you are with your basket on wheels filling it with all sorts of things. A mass of environmentally non-friendly packaging adds to the process of garbage selection. Jingles and advertisements, that insult even those with the lowest IQ’s, buzz in our ears. With the persistence of water that hollows stone, your child repeats its first learned word – buy. You find yourself in the middle of consumer heaven. You are the protagonist of a new age spirit – consumerism. In times long since past an elder Greek man theorized and did business on the main city square. His life style was one of moderation. A part of this is Mediterranean and our tradition which dictated that city centers be spaces of cultural identity, and places of public importance. The progress of a new age floods our world, taking us from life in city centers to life in the suburban spaces of „shopping centers“, places of private capital where the city is nothing more than terrain, where consumption is a lifestyle. These are artificial places without history, universal points of cultural abundance. This is where families gather during extended breaks, alongside the practice and habits of shopping they associate fun and enjoyment.

stres i terapija STRESS AND THERAPY

Ova nova stilizacija života uključuje još radoholičarski stres, elitni dodatak identitetu, i potom, - kao odgovor na stres novu društvenu modu – psihoterapiju. Biti prezaposlen i nemati vremena dio je imidža i pozicije, pokazatelj uspjeha. Jer danas, za razliku od nekih drugih vremena, najviše rade oni najuspješniji. Odavno nema dokone aristokracije koja živi od preopterećene i potplaćene radne snage (osim ako stvari ne pogledamo globalno i vidimo kako zapadna kultura brandova uvelike živi na radnoj snazi nekih drugih kultura). Brojna literatura psiholoških savjeta i poduka kako ne biti gubitnik a biti uspješan, zadovoljan i samopouzdan, zauzima golem kapacitet knjižarskih polica. Slijedeći jednake obrasce umnažanja kao i bilo koja druga roba na tržištu, i ova je marka čovjekoljublja pronašla svoj put do potrošača. Psihološki savjeti dostupni su i jeftini, i moguće ih je pronaći u svim medijima, časopisima, višetiražnim izdanjima uvozne literature koja bi s pozicije razvijene tržišne kulture u kojoj je nastala kao reakcija i potreba, trebala pomoći i nama, ljudima s tvrdog tranzicijskog tla. Pomaže li socijalno ugroženim slojevima izgovaranje pozitivnih izjava pred ogledalom, koje prema naputcima literature, liče na riječi bogova: Uspješan sam, nezavisan i bogat! Privlačim božanski prosperitet! Sve što dotaknem pretvara se u uspjeh! itd, itd? I hoće li već sutra novi vrijednosni val zapljusnuti naše obale pa ćemo se još jednom morati mentalno preobratiti, a onda zanosom preobraćenika prionuti uz nove ideje iz velike marketinške radionice vrijednosnih poruka. Hoće li se društvo u kojem je sve potrošna roba i samo potrošiti ostaje nam vidjeti. Za sada, iako nije baština zadarske regije, ova konzumentska kultura nadiruća je i sveprisutna stvarnost svake regije, planetarna radijacija kojoj više nijedan prostor ne može pobjeći.

This new stylized lifestyle includes the stress of the workaholic, an elite accessory to identity, its an answer to the stress of the new social fashion – psychotherapy. Being overworked and without free time is a part of image and position, it’s an indicator of success. Because today, in a time much different, the ones that work the most are the most successful. For a long time there has not been an idle aristocracy living off of an overworked and underpaid workforce (unless we look at the global picture and see how the brands of western culture largely live off of the work force of a foreign culture). There is countless literature filled with psychological tips, on how not to be a loser and how to be successful, content and selfconfident, that take up a large amount of space on bookstore shelves. Similar forms multiplied, like any other product on the market, and this is how philanthropists found their path to a consumer’s heart. Psychological advice is widely available and dirt cheap, they can be found in all forms of media, magazines, multiple editions of imported literature, whose position of broad market oriented culture as recreation and need, is aimed at helping people like us, people from hard transitional lands. Does it help the socially endangered to stand in front of a mirror reciting positive declarations, which according to instructions, resembles the words of the gods: - I’m successful, independent and rich! - I attract divine prosperity! - Everything I touch is a successful achievement! Etc, etc? Will tomorrow bring a new wave of values crashing into our coastline, and will we have to mentally convert once again? And with the enthusiam of new converts adhere to new ideas from the large, marketing workshops of valuable messages? And will this society, where everything is disposable and just for consumption, remain? We will see. For now, even though it’s not a legacy of the Zadar region, this consumerist culture is an advancing and omnipresent reality of every region, planetary radiation that not a single space can escape from.

MUNICIPALITY OF VIR

VIR

OTOK S OTOČIĆEM AN ISLAND WITH ISLANDS

općina vir

VIR

OTOK S OTOČIĆEM AN ISLAND WITH ISLANDS Piše / Text by LILI LOKIN Fotografije / Photos by Jakov Đinđić ZLATO I SREBRO Velid Jakupović ORTOFOTO Arhiv općine Vir

ir je posljednjih godina medijski prisutan spornim imidžem mjesta prekomjerne, loše, i često bespravne gradnje. Oni koji su ga ranije posjetili pamte ga po uistinu zastrašujućoj brzini rasta vikend naselja, velebnim zdanjima povremeno nalik srednjovjekovnim utvrdama s kulama, u kojima bi mogli zamisliti zatočenu djevu ili novovjeki crtani lik Barbie Matovilke. Putujući prema Viru s takvom poputninom za očekivati je totalni nered i graditeljski kaos, ali ono što nas tamo dočekuje ipak je različito od ovakve predstave. Cesta koja se s mosta nastavlja i prostire otokom dijeli ga poput razdjeljka, a s jedne i druge strane mreža ulica i stambenih blokova vrlo je uredno počešljana. Ukupna vizura graditeljski je ujednačena, ne bitno različita od ostalih priobalnih mjesta. Vrtovi su zasađeni mediteranskim raslinjem, visokim bujnim oleandrima, lavandom, ružmarinom... S balkona se slijevaju pelargonije, surfinije, cvjetaju ruže, bugenvilije; duž prostrane šetnice dugačak je red tamarisa, pod borovima spasonosni hlad u ljetnim mjesecima. More u svim rasponima modrih nijansi okružuje razvedenu obalu s brojnim uvalama i uvalicama i lijepim, mjestimično gotovo djevičanskim plažama.

ver the last several years the image of Vir in the media has been that of a place overrun with abundant and low quality construction, often without the corresponding permits. Those that visited the area remember a frightfully quick rise in the number of weekend communities, large buildings similar to medieval fortresses with towers, in which one could imagine a girl being held captive or a new age cartoon character like Rapunzel Barbie. Traveling to Vir with such a picture in mind one would expect total disorder and architectural chaos, however, waiting to greet us was a totally different picture. The road that continues after the bridge spans the island and splits off into several directions, an intertwined network of streets and residential blocks combs both sides of the island. The entire architectural aspect is well balanced, and not overly different to other coastal locations. Gardens are planted with Mediterranean vegetation, tall and luxurious oleander, lavender and rosemary. Pouring over balcony fences are geraniums, surfinia petunias, blossoming roses, bougainvillea…tamarisk trees line a spacious walking path, while under pine trees life saving shade can be found during summer months. The sea, in all its deep blue nuances, surrounds the separated coastline with numerous bays and inlets and beautiful, and in some places, pristine, virgin beaches.

Gradnja, turizam i procvat Fenomen vikend kuća i doseljavanja na Vir ipak se ne može izbjeći jer je upravo taj proces odredio otočke prioritete i djelatnosti, a moglo bi se reći i oživio cijelo mjesto. Ono danas broji oko 9200 objekata. Razlog tog visokog broja objekata krije se u svojevremeno vrlo povoljnoj cijeni zemljišta i činjenici da građevinska dozvola nije bila uvjet. Tako su kupci iz raznih krajeva bivše Jugoslavije došli na otok, a u vrijeme kada se ta država raspadala u svim svojim tragičnim okolnostima. Mnogi su upravo na Viru našli sklonište i svoj novi dom sklanjajući se pred ratnim razaranjima. Intenzivna gradnja i novi priliv stanovništva otvorili su nove potrebe i mogućnosti poslovanja i zapošljavanja. Stanovništvo više ne napušta otok već ostaje uposleno u raznim obrtničkim i uslužnim djelatnostima koja prate rast i razvoj Vira. Turizam je ponajviše doprinosio buđenju mjesta. Vir je danas življi i naseljeniji nego ikad. Stalno prebivalište na njemu ima oko 2500 ljudi dok se ljeti taj broj popne na 50 000. Tad nastaje „ambijent gužve i slobode“ u kojem „život buja do besvijesti“, kad je Vir „ grad i selo i ljudski konglomerat i pustinja“ kako je to lijepo izjavila za Virski list osječka etnomuzikologinja Miroslava Hadžihusejnović Valašek koja je, poput mnogih uglednika iz zemlje upravo na Viru pronašla mjesto za odmor i ljetovanje.

Krš, bura, loza i ovce Vir je kraški otok položen u more podno Velebita. S Velebita se spušta bura, sjeverni vjetar koji je neizostavan dio virske priče. Poznavajući njenu silinu i snagu stanovništvo na otoku kuće je smještalo u smjeru istok – zapad a prozori nikad nisu bili na sjevernoj strani. Ljudi su naučili živjeti s burom, upoznali joj ćud, o čemu govore i pučke izjave: “Utorkova bura osam dana dura“ ili „Sveti Bene bobe bere“ ( u proljeće o Sv. Bernardu kad naraste bob obično zapuše jaka bura). Pučko iskustvo također govori o tri velike i devet malih bura koje pušu od ožujka do svibnja. Bura je utjecala i na izgled samog otoka; jedan je od razloga krškog tla jer sa sobom nosi veliku posolicu i uništava raslinje. Za zaštitu vinograda od bure na sjevernoj se strani sadila trstika i tamaris. Vinogradarstvo je bilo razvijena kultura dok su se masline sadile kao pojedinačni slučajevi u vinogradima ili pokoja u dvorištima zaštićenim visokim zidom. Trava za ispašu je radi bure slana ali i zdrava a to je utjecalo na izvrsnu kvalitetu ovčjeg sira. Na Viru je svojevremeno nastala prva sirana (prije nego na Pagu), a Virani tvrde da je njihov sir tada bio bolji od paškog koji je s vremenom postao jedan od najsnažnijih hrvatskih brendova.

Construction, Tourism and Progress The phenomenon of weekend houses and immigration to Vir cannot be avoided because it was in fact this process that determined island priorities and activities, and it could be said that it breathed life into the area. Today there are 6300 weekend houses. The reason for such a high number hides in the one time overly favorable prices of land parcels and the fact that construction permits were not conditional. That is how land purchasers from all areas of the former Yugoslavia came to the island, in a time when that “country” fell apart in all of its tragic circumstances. Many found shelter and new homes on Vir by isolating themselves from war’s destruction. Intensive construction and a new influx of inhabitants created new needs and opportunities for business and employment. Residents no longer left the island, they remained there, employed by various small businesses and catering services which followed the growth and development of Vir. Tourism played a large part in the island’s awakening. Today, Vir is livelier and more populated than ever. Permanent residents total about 2500, this number shoots up to 50,000 during summer months. At that point the “ambiance of crowds and freedom”, in which “life swells to epic proportions”, takes hold. When Vir, a “city, village, human conglomerate, desert” as beautifully described by Miroslav Hadžihusejnović of the local newspaper Virski List, became a place where many notable people found a place for their rest and summer relaxation.

Karst, Gale Winds, Grapevines and Sheep Vir is a karst island situated in the sea beneath the Velebit Mountains. Gale winds called the bura descend from the Velebit, a northern wind that is unavoidable part of Vir’s story. Knowing the wind’s strength and intensity, island residents situated their homes in the east and west and windows were never placed on their northern face. People learned to live with the bura winds, they learned its nature, detailed in folk sayings: “Tuesday’s bura eight days will last” or “St. Bernard will gather fava beans” (during the springtime, around the holiday of St. Bernard, strong bura winds blow as fava beans are sprouting). Folk experience speaks of three large and nine small bura winds that blow from March until May. These winds effected the island’s appearance, one of the reasons for the karst terrain is that the bura carries with it a high salt content which destroys vegetation. To protect vineyards from the bura’s onslaught, reed patches and tamarisk trees were planted. Wine making was a highly developed culture of the area, olive trees were planted individually and sparsely near vineyards, sometimes they were planted in courtyards protected by high walls. Grass for grazing was salty thanks to the bura winds, even so, the grass was healthy and had great effect on the outstanding quality of cheese made from sheep’s milk. At one time Vir had its own cheese factory (even before the island of Pag), and residents of Vir claim that their cheese was even better than the cheese from Pag, which with time became one of Croatia’s strongest brands of cheese.

Stočarstvo i vinogradarstvo osnovne su tradicijske djelatnosti stanovništva otoka. Iako otočani, ribarstvom se nisu bavili. To bi se donekle moglo pojasniti ravnokotarskim porijeklom stanovništva. U drugoj polovici 19 st., kada uvjeti života postaju sve teži i siromašniji, velik broj mladih, radno sposobnih ljudi, odlazi s otoka u potrazi za boljom zaradom.Odlaze s prtljagom u sprti (košara izvana presvučena platnom i obojana uljenom bojom), ukrcavaju se na brodove kao pomorci, mnogi zauvijek ostaju u stranim zemljama poput Amerike, Kanade, Argentine, Čilea… Nakon drugog svjetskog rata svaka kuća ima po najmanje jednog pomorca. Iako danas primjer krškog otoka Vir je nekada bio potpuno prekriven šumom hrasta crnike. Šuma je krčena radi ispaše, a najintenzivnije početkom 20 st. kada je gotovo potpuno nestala. Od pedesetih godina 20 st. počinje pošumljavanje otoka borovima, a kako slabi stočarstvo i nestaje stoke samoniklo se obnavlja i crnika. Pod kamenom, skriveno i zakulisno, buja na Viru raznolik i opasan životinjski svijet. Izgradnja kuća potjerala je plahe zečeve a izgradnja mosta na otok je dovela čagljeve. Kad se prvi pojavio organizirana je hajka. Vrlo su štetni a u večernjim zimskim satima u nekim se dijelovima otoka može čuti njihovo neugodno glasanje. Sa zapuštanjem polja nestala su i velika jata jarebica ali su zato ostale – zmije. Nekada su se lovile za potrebe farmacije.U tu svrhu na Vir su dolazili iskusni i opremljeni svojim „čarobnim“ štapovima, lovci na zmije iz Bokanjca. Nad Virom se viđaju i orlovi a u ranojesenskim danima u predjelu luke pojavljuju se „Božji pivci“ ptice šarenog perja.

Stock farming and wine production are the basic traditional activities of island residents. Even though they were islanders, the residents of Vir were not in the fishing industry. This can be explained to some extent to the Ravni Kotari (flat lands district) origins of the island’s population. In the second half of the 19th century, when life’s conditions were harder and impoverished, a large number of young, able bodied men left the island in search of better earnings. They left with their belongings in a basket wrapped in canvas and painted with oil colors, they loaded onto ships as sailors, many of them remained forever in foreign lands such as America, Canada, Argentina, and Chile. After the Second World War, every household had at least one man out to sea. Even though modern day Vir is an example of karstic island, the area was once totally covered by Holm Oak trees. The forest was cleared to make way for grazing land, the most intensive clearing took place at the beginning of the 20th century when they nearly disappeared completely. During the 1950’s a concerted effort to afforest the island with pine trees began, as stock farming eased off and as livestock slowly disappeared the Holm Oak began growing on its own once again. Hidden under the rocks of Vir is a diverse and dangerous animal world. Housing construction chased away timid rabbits, while construction of the bridge brought jackals to the island. When they first arrived hunts were organized. They cause lots of damage and on winter nights, in some sections of the island, their unpleasant howls can be heard. Neglected fields caused the disappearance of large flocks of partridges, however, snakes remained. At one time they were hunted for pharmaceutical purposes. For this cause, experienced snake hunters from Bokanjac, equipped with their “magical” sticks, came to Vir. At times eagles are seen flying over the island, in the early days of autumn “God’s roosters”, birds with colorful feathers, make an appearance.

Prva naselja

The First Settlement

Prvi tragovi života na Viru nalaze se na položaju Brižine, pripadaju jednom prolaznom naselju iz doba ranog paleolitika, dok je prvo stalno naselje locirano je na položaju Križine, blizu Torova. Kao i većina mjesta ovog kraja, u 9 st. prije Krista Vir je naseljen Liburnima. Njihovo prisustvo prepoznatljivo je po ostacima grobnih humaka (kamenje slagano na gomilu), i Gradina (obrambenih zidina) Zidine su zaklanjale kućerke sa zemljanim podom, glinenim ognjištem i krovovima prekrivenim slamom, trstikom ili granjem. Liburni su vrlo prisutni u mediteranskoj razmjeni, plovili su i trgovali s drugim narodima, imali svoja uporišta i predstavništva. Tome svjedoče i bogati podmorski arheološki lokaliteti oko Vira od kojih je najznačajniji onaj kod otoka Mauna s grčko-italskim amforama (3. ili 4. st. prije K.). Virski ribar, Šime Kapović pedesetih je godina 20 st. mrežom podigao s morskog dna do sada najstariju pronađenu amforu na ovom dijelu Jadrana. Područje Liburna su u svojoj povijesnoj osvajačkoj misiji zaposjeli Rimljani negdje u 3 st. prije K. Nakon dugotrajnih međusobnih ratova Liburni su svladani a Rim je brzo proširio svoj utjecaj i kulturu pretvarajući gradove u lijepa i elegantna civilizacijska središta. Jedno takvo središte šireg područja kojem pripada Vir bio je grad Aenona (Nin), malo dalje još bogatiji Jader (Zadar). Vir je u to doba cestom (Via Communis) povezan s Ninom. Ostaci rimskih naselja na Viru nisu pronađeni.

Vir’s earliest traces of life are found in the Brižina section of the island, they belong to an early Paleolithic age nomadic settlement, the first continuous settlement is located in the section of the island known as Križina, near Torovi. As in most areas of the region, Vir was settled by Liburnians in the 9th century B.C. Their presence is identified by the remains of burial mounds (large heaps of stones), forts (defensive walls) blocked dilapidated houses with earthen floors, clay hearths and roofs made of straw, reeds or branches. Liburnians are extremely present in Mediterranean barter system, they sailed and traded with other peoples, and they had their own home base and representative body. Testifying to this fact are the rich underwater archaeological localities surrounding Vir, the most important being near the island of Maun where Greek-Italian amphoras, dating back to the 3rd or 4th century B.C., were found. In the 1950’s, a local Vir fisherman by the name of Šime Kapović lifted from the ocean floor, with his fishing net, the oldest known amphora in this portion of the Adriatic. In their historical conquering missions, the Romans conquered Liburnian lands sometime in the 3rd century B.C.. After long lasting warfare the Liburnians were conquered, Rome quickly expanded their influence and culture, transforming cities into beautiful and elegant centers of civilization. One of these centers, in the wider area that fell under Vir’s jurisdiction, was the city Aenona

crkva ivana glavosjeka na mjesnom groblju The Church of St. John the head-cutter at the local cemetery

(modern day Nin), a little farther away was the affluent Jader (modern day Zadar). In this age, Vir was connected by road (Via Communis) with Nin. Remnants of Roman settlements have not been found on Vir. They were more than likely settled away from the Liburnian population. In this region there is great change in historical periods and peoples. In the age when barbarians destroyed Roman fortifications and buried the foundations of an entire civilization, when Rome lost its dominant role of world leader, when new clans settled Europe, the fate of Vir was closely tied to that of Nin. Nin’s residents took refuge on Vir, throughout its history Vir will often play the role of sanctuary and shelter. With the arrival of new peoples comes the arrival of Croatians, neighboring Nin, during the 7th century, becomes their first capital which signals the beginnings of Croatia’s most celebrated era in its history. Croatians blended in with the remaining Liburnian population, assimilating them soon after. This is symbolically and realistically evident in the old Croatian church of St. Juraj in Bandira, it was raised alongside already existing Liburnian structures.

Vjerojatno je i dalje bio naseljen Liburnskim stanovništvom. Na ovom se području smjenjuju mnoga povijesna vremena i narodi. U vrijeme kad barbari ruše rimske utvrde potkopavajući temelje cijele jedne civilizacije, kada Rim gubi primat gospodara svijeta, kada nova plemena naseljavaju Europu, sudbina Vira usko je vezana uz Nin. Ninjani se tada sklanjaju u Vir, a tu ulogu pribježišta i skloništa Vir će često igrati tijekom svoje povijesti. S novim narodima dolaze i Hrvati, u 7. st. Susjedni Nin postaje njihovom prvom prijestolnicom čime započinje razdoblje njegove najslavnije povijesti. Hrvati su se pomiješali s liburnskim stanovništvom koje su ovdje zatekli i uskoro ga potpuno asimilirali. Simbolički i stvarno to je vidljivo u izgradnji starohrvatske crkvice Sv. Juraj na Bandiri, podignute uz već postojeću liburnsku gradinu.

The First Mention of a Name

Prvi spomen imena

Originating from the age of Croatian rulers is the first written mention of the island Vir. King Petar Krešimir IV (the Great), who held court in Nin, issued a deed of donation in 1609 to St. Krševan in Zadar, it was composed in his Nin palace, the text contains the following passage: “Being that the almighty God extended our kingdom over land and sea, we have resolved wholeheartedly to honor the monastery of St. Krševan the Martyr (in Zadar) with possessions and lands. By the actions of our predecessors, the most eminent of Croatian kings, who also donated the very same monastery possessions and lands, and we shall not deviate from their paths, we present and donate this for you blessed Krševan and for the salvation of our souls and for the souls of the deceased, and for you sir Petar, the valued abbot of that sacred place, we bestow our royal island which extends into our Dalmatian sea, it goes by the name of Maun and stretches to the eastern side of the island called Vir in the Croatian language.”

Iz doba hrvatskih narodnih vladara potječe i prvi pisani spomen otoka Vira. Kralj Petar Krešimir IV (Veliki) koji je stolovao u Ninu izdaje 1069. godine darovnicu samostanu sv. Krševana u Zadru, sastavljenu u njegovom ninskom dvoru, u kojoj između ostalog stoji: „I budući da je svemogući Bog naše kraljevstvo na kopnu i po moru rasprostranio, odlučismo i spremna srca ustanovismo da ćemo samostan sv. Mučenika Krševana (u Zadru) počastiti posjedima i zemljama. Nađosmo također u djelima predšasnika naših, preuzvišenih naime kraljeva hrvatskih, da su i oni taj samostan darivali mnogim posjedima i zemljama, a mi, ne hoteći ničime odstupiti od staze pređa naših dajemo i darivamo za spas duše moje i svih mojih pokojnika tebi, blaženi Krševane, i po tebi gospodinu Petru, vrijednom opatu tvoga svetoga dvora naš vlastiti kraljevski otok koji se prostire

The first name of Vir was Uera, more than likely originating from the old Mediterranean/pre-Roman name of Ura, later on this name transformed into Veru which meant pasture. The later Italian name Puntadura came about with the joining of the Italian word punta, the Italian adverb de and the name Ura.

u našem dalmatinskom moru, a zove se Maun, kojem se s istočne strane stere otok, koji se u hrvatskom jeziku zove Vir.“ Prvo ime Vira je Ueru, nastalo najvjerojatnije od staromediteranskog, predrimskog imena Ura, koje se kasnije transformira u Veru što bi značilo pašnjak. Kasniji talijanski naziv Puntadura nastao je spajanjem tal. riječi punta, tal. priloga de i imena Ura.

Combat near Vir In immediate proximity to Vir is the island of Školjić. Separating the two is sandy terrain and shoals, judging historical sources a battle between Croatians and Mongol conquerors took place here in 1242. At this point in time, Croatia was in a private union with Hungary, the Croatian-Hungarian king of that time was Bela IV of the Arpadović dynasty. Simultaneously, the Mongols of Northern China began their lightning quick and forceful conquering invasion of Europe. Descendants of Genghis Khan, founder of the largest continental empire, left ruins, plague and famine in their wake. In succession, they ravaged Russian principalities, Poland, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Northern Croatia – destroying Zagreb and forcing Bela IV to flee towards Dalmatia. There he took refuge in fortified cities that the Mongols were unable to conquer. The perfectly organized Mongol army planted panic and fear among the population. Facing fast Mongol horses, people took shelter at higher elevations, in caves and in pits. Toma Arhiđakon of Split described the Mongols in the following way: “these people were smaller in stature with broad chests. Their image was ghastly, beardless and flat faced, blunt nosed and with small eyes set off far from one another. Their clothes were unnatural, made from folded leather resembling crust. They do not worry much about nourishment, as if they feed off of barbarity and cruelty, they do not eat bread their food is meat, and their drink of choice is horse milk and blood”. After the news of the death of their leader Ögedei (son of Genghis Khan) spread, the Mongols withdrew from European soil, on their journey they did not neglect devastating a few more lands, and just then, before their return to the north, the battle near Vir took place, here the Mongols were defeated by Croatian warriors. King Bela IV, who in the meantime was recovering from a dire defeat, with the help of the Frankopan Princes of Krk organized an ambush by land and by sea, on terrain that was known and closer to the Croatians. Mongol warriors were ill-prepared for the sandy and shallow terrain they encountered near Vir, they were weak in open maritime battles and lost their battle with Croatian ships and heavily armed and armor clad Croatian knights. This defeat signaled the end of their conquest and soon thereafter they entirely disappeared from European soil. The city of Pag participated in this battle by supplying their ships, for the help, refuge and shelter the citizens of Pag offered Bela IV repaid them in kind with a declaration declaring Pag a liberated royal city.

Bitka kod Vira U neposrednoj blizini Vira leži pripadajući mu otočić Školjić. Dijeli ih pjeskovit teren i pličina gdje se po svemu sudeći odigrala bitka između Hrvata i mongolskih osvajača 1242. godine. Hrvatska je tada već u personalnoj uniji s Ugarskom, a tadašnji kralj Hrvatsko-Ugarske unije je Bela IV iz dinastije Arpadovića. Istovremeno, Mongoli iz sjeverne Kine započinju munjevit i silan osvajački pohod na Europu. Nasljednici Đingis kana, utemeljitelja najvećeg kopnenog carstva, za sobom su ostavljali samo ruševine, kugu i glad. Redom su poharali ruske kneževine, Poljsku, Češku, Ugarsku i sjevernu Hrvatsku - razrušivši Zagreb i prisilivši Belu IV na bijeg prema Dalmaciji. Tu se skrivao u utvrđenim gradovima koje Mongoli nisu mogli osvojiti. Mongolska, savršeno organizirana, vojska sijala je paniku i strah među stanovništvom. Pred mongolskim brzim konjanicima narod se skrivao po visinama, spiljama i pećinama. Toma Arhiđakon - splićanin, ovako ih opisuje: „Ti su ljudi maleni ali prsa su im široka. Spodoba njihova je grozna, golobrado lice i plosnato, nos tup a male oči razdaleko jedno od drugoga. Odijelo im je neprirodno, a sastavljeno je od složene kože te nalikuje ljuskama… Ne brinu se mnogo za svoju hranu, kao da žive od same okrutnosti, ne jedu kruha hrana im je meso, a piće konjsko mlijeko i krv“. Nakon vijesti o smrti svoga vladara Ogotaja (sina Đingis kana) Mongoli se povlače s Europskog tla, pri čemu ne propuštaju opustošiti još poneke zemlje, i baš tada, pri povratku prema sjeveru odigrala se bitka kod Vira u kojoj su Mongoli poraženi od hrvatskih ratnika. Kralj Bela IV koji se u međuvremenu oporavio od teškog poraza, uz pomoć krčkih knezova Frankopana organizirao je zasjede na kopnu i moru, na terenima koji su Hrvatima bili poznatiji i bliži. Mongolski ratnici, nespremni za pjeskovito i usko tlo na kojem su se našli kod Vira i nejaki u otvorenim pomorskim sukobima izgubili su bitku s hrvatskim brodovljem i teško naoružanim i oklopljenim hrvatskim vitezovima. Tim porazom označen je kraj njihove osvajačke misije pa uskoro posve nestaju s europskog tla. Sa svojim je brodovima u ovoj bitci sudjelovao i grad Pag, pa se za pomoć, utočište i sklonište koje su mu pažani pružili Bela IV uskoro odužuje poveljom kojom Pag proglašava slobodnim kraljevskim gradom.

Malena kućica, skrivena iza gustog raslinja, zaslužuje biti zabilježena. Ona je prva vikendica izgrađena na cijelom otoku Viru. Nalazi se u neposrednoj blizini središta mjesta i u nekoliko je navrata mjenjala vlasnike. This small house, hidden behind thick greenery, deserves to be noticed. It is the first weekend house ever built on Vir. It is located near the area’s center and has changed owners several times.

BISKUPLJAČA

VELIKA SLATINA LOZICE

OTOK VIR Island Vir

Lighthouse

SVJETIONIK

TOROVI

PEDINKA

Pod krilima venecijanskog lava

Under the wings of a Venetian lion Along the Adriatic coast there was a rise in the strength of the major maritime and merchant trading powers of the time period, a new city would soon usher in a several century rule over Dalmatia, its name was Venice. By force, and sometimes through fraud, or with the help of crusaders whose combative talents used for conquering were repaid with guarantee of safe transport to the Holy Lands, Venice masterfully ruled over maritime routes and numerous coastal cities. Before attacking Zadar in 1313, Venetian soldiers selected Vir as their resting place. Staying there for a total of eight days were 1000 gendarme, 1000 infantrymen with long spears and 1000 archers. With this act Vir was also conquered. After affiliating with Venice the island was leased by large estate owner Grgur Mrganić for a period of 10 years. The island was leased often by

Na obali Jadrana, za cijelo vrijeme raste i jača pomorska i trgovačka velesila onog doba, grad koji će uskoro uvesti svoju višestoljetnu upravu nad Dalmacijom – Venecija. Silom, ponekad i prijevarom, sama ili uz pomoć križara koji joj borbenom pomoći pri osvajanjima plaćaju usluge prijevoza prema Svetoj zemlji, suvereno je zavladala morskim putevima i brojnim priobalnim gradovima. Pri napadu na Zadar,1313. venecijanski vojnici odabiru Vir za svoje odmorište. Na njemu je osam dana ostalo 1000 oružnika, 1000 pješaka s dugim kopljima i 1000 strijelaca. Time je Vir ujedno i osvojen. Nakon pripojenja Veneciji otok je zakupio veleposjednik Grgur Mrganić na 10 godina. Otok je često u zakupu veleposjedničkih

OPĆINA VIR BOBOVIK

LUČICA

UVALA ŽITNA

Žitna Bay

VIRIĆ ili ŠKOLJIĆ

Vir Village

SELO VIR RADOVANJICA KAŠTELINA

LUKA MILKOVANJICA

PREZIDA

RT KOZJAK

The Bridge

MOST

large estate owners from Zadar and Nin, on Vir they kept livestock tended to by island peasants. Dating to the age of Venetian rule is the Kaštelina fortification, more than likely it served for defense against Uskoci (Croatian Hapsburg soldiers) and the Turks, who erupted into the region in the 15th century. Kaštelina had two towers, on its northern face is a preserved Venetian symbol – a Venetian lion, carved into stone above the entrance door of the northern tower are three stone crests belonging to three Venetian families: Molin, Michiel and Grisogono. Surrounded by shallow shoals, Vir was a good defensive position. The Turks never were able to set foot on its soil and during times of Turkish attacks it often served as a place of refuge for the population of Zadar and Nin. The island population in that period predominantly moved away. Their origins are unknown, the current population began settling the area at the beginning of the 17th century.

obitelji iz Zadra i Nina koje su na njemu uglavnom držali stoku koju su čuvali virski seljaci. Iz doba venecijanske vlasti datira i utvrda zvana Kaštelina koja je najvjerojatnije služila za obranu od Uskoka i Turaka koji u 15. st. provaljuju u ove krajeve. Kaštelina je imala dvije kule. Na sjevernoj je sačuvan venecijanski simbol – krilati lav, isklesan u kamenu a iznad ulaznih vrata južne kule tri kamena grba koja su pripadala mletačkim obiteljima: Molin, Michiel i Grisogono. Okružen plićakom Vir je bio dobro zaštićen položaj. Turci nikad nisu stupili na njegovo tlo a za vrijeme turskih napada često je služio kao sklonište stanovništvu Zadra i Nina. Virsko je stanovništvo u to vrijeme mahom iseljeno. Njegovo porijeklo nije poznato, sadašnje se stanovništvo počinje naseljavati početkom 17 st.

Island owners Gospodari otoka Polovicom 17. st. Vir dobiva svog prvog gospodara (vlasnika). 1634. mletački dužd otok dodjeljuje obitelji Crnica uz obavezu plaćanja 200 dukata godišnje. Vuk Crnica bio je zapovjednik brodovlja u velebitskom kanalu i uspješno je ratovao na strani Venecije protiv Uskoka i Turaka, pa mu je Vir dodijeljen kao nagrada i zasluga, uz titulu grofa i upravitelja (guvernera).Već nakon nekoliko godina Vuk Crnica otkupljuje otok. Prodana su sva zemljišta, zemlju su i dalje obrađivali težaci koji su je plaćali 1/6 proizvodnje vina 1/4 proizvodnje žitarica godišnje. Obitelj Crnica je bila vojnička obitelj porijeklom iz crnogorskog primorja (najvjerojatnije Boka kotorska). Iz tog su kraja zajedno s njim došli koloni koji su naselili otok. Crnice su na Viru izgradili svoju palaču uz more (na mjestu današnje općine Vir), za razliku od ostalog stanovništva koje je kuće gradilo podalje od mora. Po nekim navodima grob Vuka Crnice pronađen je u blizini grobljanske crkve sv. Ivana koju je on dao obnoviti u 17. st. U drugoj polovici 19. st. novi vlasnik otoka je obitelj Bakmaz. Po nekim navodima dobiven je na kartama u igri s Crnicom, po drugima je obitelj Bakmaz jednostavno otkupila otok od Crnice. Tada je provedeno nova uknjižba nekretnina kojom su čak i kuće mještana pripale vlasniku otoka, čime su oni ponovo postali klasični kmetovi (bez prava vlasništva). Jedino njihovo vlasništvo bila je knjižica s popisom godišnjih obveza prema gospodaru. Nju od 1881. ne potpisuje više Bakmaz već Obradović, obitelj za koju se udala Bakmazova kćer, nasljednica.

Otkup Austrijska vlast koja je nakon pada Venecije ustoličila svoju upravu u Dalmaciji donosi 1903. odluku o ukidanju kmetstva. Već tada počinju pregovori mještana s Bakmazovim potomcima o kupnji otoka, od strane 89 obitelji. 1908. ostvaruje se san virskih mještana i težaka. Zemlja koju su stoljećima mukotrpno obrađivali i plaćali njenim prihodima postaje njihov vlastiti posjed. 13. kolovoza 1908. Augusta Obradović, rođena Bakmaz prodala je otok. Otkupile su ga 89 obitelji s Vira za cijenu od 12.000 kruna, ukupno za 1/89 dio. Prošle je godine proslavljena 100godišnjica otkupa pa se od tada i virska noć vezuje uz taj datum. Pregovore o kupnji vodili su Virani preko zastupnika Ante Vučetića - Jurina i Mate Subotića - Blažova. Vjerojatno je pri tome došlo do nesporazuma jer su prema raspoloživim dokumentima mještani morali doplatiti još 12.000 kruna, s napomenom:“ Pojili Vučetić i Subotić Mate bili 12.000 od svih nas“. Kako god, Vir je postao otok svojih stanovnika. Diobu na 89 dijelova su proveli sami Virani, točnije komisija za diobu, uz pomoć žice i kurdele i trajala je četiri godine. 70-ak godina kasnije dioba je uvedena u katastar a uknjižba je izvršena 2000 godine.

Sometime in the middle of the 17th century Vir received its first owner. In 1634, a Venetian Doge allocated the island to the Crnic family for a yearly sum of 200 gold coins. Vuk Crnic was the commanding officer of a shipping fleet located in the Velebit canal and successfully waged war for the Venetians against the Uskoci (Croatian soldiers) and the Turks. Vir was awarded to him as reward for his service, along with the titles earl and governor. After several years Vuk Crnic purchased the island. Sold were all plots of land, the land was still maintained by day laborers paid with 1/6th of the entire wind production and ¼ of the yearly grain production. The Crnic’s were a military family from the Montenegrin coastline, most likely from Boka Kotorska. From this region an entire colony made the move along with the Crnic family and settled the island. The Crnic family built their palace along the sea, on the exact location of the present day municipality offices of Vir, opposite to the remaining population which built their houses away from the sea. According to some claims the grave of Vuk Crnic was found in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery church of St. John, Crnic ordered the church’s renovation in the 17th century. The second half of the 19th century saw the island with a new owner – the Bakmaz family. According to some sources the Bakmaz family won the island in a card game with the Crnic’s, according to others the island was purchased from the Crnić’s. At that time a new land registration was recorded in which the ownership of the homes of local residents went to the island owner, and once again the local population became classic serfs, without the right of ownership. The only thing in their ownership was the library with the inventory of yearly obligations to their master. From 1881 onwards the surname Bakmaz is no longer signed, its place taken by Obradović, the family into which Bakmaz’s daughter and inheritrix married.

Acquisition Austrian authorities, after the fall of Venice, installed their government in Dalmatia in 1903 and abolished serfdom. At that time discussion between local residents and Bakmaz’s descendents began regarding purchase of the island by a group of 89 families. In 1908, the long held dream of local Vir residents and laborers was realized. The land which for centuries they painstakingly maintained became their personal property at last. On the 13th of August, 1908, Augusta Obradović, born Bakmaz, sold the island. The island was purchased by 89 Vir families for a total of 12,000 krunas each, the price for a 1/89th ownership. Last year the 100 year anniversary of the island’s purchase was celebrated, and from now on this date will be tied to the annual Vir festival celebration. Purchase negotiations for Vir’s residents were led by representative Ante Vučetić-Jurina and Mate Subotić-Blažova. According to available documents there must have been some sort of misunderstanding as residents had to pay an extra 12,000 krunas with the observation: “ “Vučetić and Subotić Mate ate up 12,000 from all of us”. However it came about, Vir became the island of its inhabitants. Partitioning the island into 89 sections was done by the residents themselves, or to be more precise a commission for land partition, with the help of wire and lanyards the process lasted four years. Seventy years later, in the year 2000, the partitioning was finally entered into the municipal land registry.

Religious life Vjerski život Porijeklo Virana vezano je uglavnom za Ravne kotare i Crnogorsko primorje odakle dolaze s obitelji Crnica. Svojedobno su svi prešli na katoličanstvo a Crnice su obnavljale i gradile crkve na Viru. Najstarija crkva na otoku je sv. Jurja na čijim je temeljima kasnije izgrađena župna crkva sv. Jurja 1845. Njen zvonik podignut od virskog kamena simbol je mjesta. Od njegova dva zvona jedno je zaduženo za objavu smrti i pogrebe, zove se stoga „Mrtvo zvono“. Vjerovalo se da za vrijeme zvonjave duša pokojnika razgovara s Bogom, a razgovor duže traje što se duže zvoni. Glavni svetac zaštitnik Virana je sv. Ivan. Na blagdan sv. Ivana Glavosjeka 29. 08. održava se tradicionalna virska fešta. Po pučkoj predaji fešta je nekada bila u mjesecu travnju, na dan sv. Jurja, ali kako u to doba janjci još nisu stasali i vina nema dovoljno, cijelo je dešavanje prebačeno u vrijeme većeg obilja. U neposrednoj blizini palače Crnica nalazila se nekad crkvica sv. Nikole, izgrađena negdje u 12. ili 13. st. koju je Vuk Crnica obnovio i pretvorio u obiteljsku kapelicu. Vuk Crnica obnovio, po nekim tumačenjima i sagradio, crkvu sv Ivana Krstitelja na groblju, iznad ulaznih vrata uklesani su njegovi inicijali i grb. Pred oltarom ove crkve nalaze se dvije grobnice a predaja govori da su u njima pokopani vriski svećenici. Također po predaji, do drugog svjetskog rata svake je godine 1. svibnja polazila procesija od župne crkve sv. Jurja iz sela do crkve

The origins of Vir’s inhabitants are tied directly to the Ravni Kotari (flat lands district) and the Montenegrin coastline, the latter from which the Crnic family came. Over time they made the move over to Catholicism, the Crnic family restored and built churches on Vir. The oldest church on the island is St. George, on its foundations the parish church of St. George was built in 1845. The church tower was built with Vir stone and is the symbol of the area. Of its two bells, one is responsible for death announcements and for funerals, for this reason it is called “Mrtvo Zvono” (The Death Bell). It was believed that during the moments the bell rang the soul of the deceased was conversing with God, the longer the bells rang the longer the conversation was said to be. The main patron saint of Vir is St. John. On the holiday of St. John the Baptist, on the 29th of August, the traditional festival of Vir is held. According to folk traditions the festival used to be held in April, on St. George’s day, due to the fact that at that time of the year lambs were not yet mature and wine quantities were sparse, the festival was then moved to a time of the year when supplies were greater. In the immediate vicinity of the Crnić palace was the one time church of St. Nicholas built sometime in the 12th or 13th centuries, Vuk Crnic restored and transformed it into a family chapel. Vuk Crnic restored and, according to some sources, built the church of St. John the Baptist near the cemetery, above the entrance doorway are his chiseled initials and family crest. In front of the church’s altar are two graves, legends say that two Vir priests are buried within. Also according to tradition and up until the Second World War, every year on the 1st of May a procession from the parish church of St.George in the village to the church of St. John located near the cemetery. The purpose of the procession was to deliver a statue to the parish church, for the next month the

sv. Ivana na groblju po kip koji bi se prenio u župnu crkvu i pred njim bi se cijeli mjesec molila krunica. Posljednji dan svibnja ponovo bi se procesijom vratio u crkvu sv. Ivana. Na sjevernoj strani otoka nalaze se ostaci crkvice sv. Martina po kojoj se taj lokalitet naziva Smratine. Po nekim drugim tumačenjima naziv je dobio po riječi smratine (groblje) koje se nalazilo oko crkvice. Sve do nedavno prilikom oranja tu su se iskapale ljudske kosti. Po nekim vjerovanjima bilo je to groblje prvih hrvatskih doseljenika na otok, po drugim, tu su se pokapali gusari poginuli u napadima na brodove. ... Vir je danas otok razapet između predrasuda i realnog stanja, između dinaridskog mentaliteta i mora kojim je okružen; naposlijetko mostom je razapet na kopno koje mu je odredilo najnoviju prošlost, tvori snažnu turističku sadašnjost, a u perspektivi obećava vizure nove urbane cjeline zadarske regije.

rosary would be said before the statue. On the last day of May the procession would return the statue to the church of St. John. On the northern face of the island are the remains of the church of St. Martin after which the locality was named Smratine. Other sources claim that the name came about from the word “smratine” (graveyard), as a graveyard was located near the church. Up until recent years, during times of ploughing, human bones were often unearthed. Some believe that these are the graves of the island’s first Croatian immigrants, while others claim that buried here are the remains of pirates that died in various ship attacks. ... Today, Vir is an island crucified and stretched out between prejudices and actual conditions, between a Dinarid mentality and the sea that surrounds it; and finally by a bridge which is stretched over two tracts of land and which has determined the areas recent history, producing a forceful touristic reality, and in the promising vista of its perspective is a new urban entity of the Zadar region.

NEDILJKO ČEPIĆ SVJETIONIČAR U MIROVINI RETIRED LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER

Godine 1968., dok su studenti u Evropi palili ulice i ratovali na barikadama, Nediljko Čepić se odlučio na osamu svjetioničarskog zvanja. Napušta posao u Rijeci i odlazi na svjetionik na otočić Sušac, u trokut daleko od rodnog Vira, na razmeđu Korčule, Visa i Lastova.

The year 1968, while students across Europe set fire to the streets and battled behind barricades, Nediljko Čepić opted for the solitude of a lighthouse keeper’s calling. He left his job in Rijeka and set out for the lighthouse on Sušac island, located in a triangle far away from his Vir birthplace, on the dividing line between Korčula, Vis and Lastovo.

Bila su to vremena – priča Nediljko – kada su svjetioničari još nosili uniforme, kada smo dobijali sve od robe, osim čarapa i donjeg rublja. Četiri sam godine proveo na Sušcu. Brat Joso me zvao k sebi u pomorce, ali nisam htio. Želio sam „na tvrdo“. Ni „na tvrdom“ nije bilo lako, ali ono što je bilo izvjesno je to što smo s mirovinom na svjetioniku mogli računati na stan. Nevolja je što sam u mirovinu otišao u svojoj zemlji, u Hrvatskoj, i ništa od stana. Da nam je država samo malo zakasnila danas bih imao stan.

That was still when – says Nediljko – lighthouse keepers still wore uniforms. We were given everything except for socks and underwear. I spent four years on Sušac. My brother Joso invited me to be a sailor, but I didn’t want to go. I wanted to be on „something firm“. Not that being on „something firm“ was easy, but with certainty we were able to count on having an apartment when we went into retirement. It’s troublesome that I went into retirement in my own country, in Croatia, there was no apartment. If our country came along just a little later, today I would have an apartment.

Kakav je bio svjetioničarski posao? Lijep, ako ne gledate ružno. Problemi nastaju kada djeca krenu u školu. Bez djece to je jedan, s djecom drugi posao. Dok su djeca mala dobro je. Na Sušcu sam bio četiri godine, nakon toga sam otišao na Senjska vrata – Svjetionik Prvić Stražica. Tamo je bilo najteže. Ne samo zbog bure koja je bila strašna. Jedne nam je zime pukla gusterna pod burom. Ušlo je more i voda se usmrdila. Puno veći problem nam je pričinjavala blizina Golog otoka. Kažnjenici su stalno bježali i morali smo uvjek biti na oprezu. Bježali su plivajući na plinskim bocama. Jedan nam je i brod ukrao. Srećom našli smo ga, na Krku. Tu ste dobili dijete? Djecu sam dobio dok sam bio na Grujici i Susku. Kada su djeca stasala za školu tražio sam premještaj i dobio, na moju sreću, Veli Rat na Dugom otoku. Plovput kao naša Firma želio je svima s takvim problemima izići u susret, ali nije se moglo baš svima. Ja sam imao sreće i djeca su mi krenula u školu na Dugom otoku, a kada su krenula u srednju dobio sam Puntamiku u Zadru. Ne mogu se požaliti. Kako to da niste radili na Viru? Bilo me strah poskoka kojih je u to doba bilo koliko hoćeš. Bio sam par puta na zamjeni, ali dici nisam dao da iziđu van iz kuće. Stupu smo natapali u naftu i palili je ukrug svjetionika sve u strahu od zmija. Danas sam u penziji, i što radim (?): Pravim i krpam mriže, prijateljima za kilo-dva ribe.

What kind of job was the lighthouse keeper’s? Quite nice, if you don’t look at the ugly parts. Problems arise when kids start attending school. Without kids it’s one type of job, with kids it’s another. When children are still young it’s ok. I spent four years on Sušac, after that I went to Senjska Vrata and the lighthouse Prvić Stražica. Working there was the toughest. Not just because of the bura (gale) winds which were ferocious. One winter our cistern broke because of the winds. Seawater seeped in and the water stunk real bad. A larger problem was the close proximity to Goli Otok (Barren Island). Prisoners held on the island were always escaping and we always had to be on guard. They would escape swimming on gas cylinders. One of them even stole a boat. By sheer luck we found it on Krk. Your children were born there? My children were born in Grujica and Sušac. When it was time for them to go to school I sought a transfer and got one, with luck I was sent to Veli Rat on Dugi Otok. Our company, Plovput, went out of their way to help those with similar problems, but they couldn’t satisfy everyone. I was lucky and my children began attending school on Dugi Otok, and when they started middle-school I got transferred to Puntamika in Zadar. I can’t complain. How is it that you never worked on Vir? I was afraid of viper snakes which at that time were all over the place. I worked there a couple of times as a substitute, while there I never allowed my children to leave the house. We doused the columns with gas and set them afire in a ring around the lighthouse because of how scared we were of the snakes. Today I am retired, and what do I do (?): I weave and fix fishing nets for friends for a kilogram or two of fresh fish.

U dvorištu obitekjske kuće Šime Radovića (Šavar), na otoku Viru nalazi se jedinstveno stablo. Smokva stara oko 200 godina s krošnjom promjera 17 metara In the garden of Šime Radović’s (Šavar) family house, located on the island of Vir, is a unique tree. A fig tree approximately 200 years old with a crown 17 meters in diameter.

SPAVALICA TONČI LIVERIĆ PRVI PROFESIONALNI RIBAR S OTOKA VIRA VIR’S FIRST PROFESSIONAL FISHERMAN

The fisherman that was our host on the boat we were using to visit Vir and photograph the island coast, decided to tell us his unique life story. I am Vir’s first professional fisherman – began Tonči Liverić, known to everyone on Vir as Spavalica (Sleepyhead). My grandfather was the one that earned the nickname Spavalica, afterwards it was passed on to my father, and today I am Spavalica. That’s the way it is. As a poor youth my grandfather used to watch over farm animals belonging to the villagers. After doing that he would go to school and fall asleep in his seat, and because of that they called him Spavalica. As a young man he went to America to make some money. He dug the Panama Canal. When he returned he built the largest house on Vir. He didn’t stay very long and set off for Canada. Bad luck was very often a co-passenger for people in those days, and my grandfather had the worst of it. When they set off for Povljana on Pag by boat (just a few miles away – editor) the boat capsized even though the sea was calm. My grandmother, uncle, my grandfather’s brother’s wife and three children drowned. All together six people drowned. My grandfather stayed in Vir for only one more year because he had to find a new wife. He needed to find someone who would take care of his kids while he was in Canada. In Canada he found work as a doorman in a whore house. As everything that a man could need was at arm’s length, my grandfather was able to save a lot of money and returned to Vir a rich man. My father, a crazy man, had five children with my mother, after that he left her and never returned. That’s the short history of Spavalica. Besides these six boats I also had a small plane, and my runway was like the one in Zemunik, it ran across the street. Dropulić destroyed my hangar; the plane I gave to Vrbovec, and I don’t have anything else on that side anymore. Just these six boats and my restaurant „Kod Spavalice“ (At Sleepyhead’s). In just a few sentences a life history as thick as a large cinematic synopsis.

Ribar koji nam je bio domaćin na brodu kojim smo obilazili Vir snimajući obalu otoka, ispričao nam je svoju neobičnu životnu priču. Ja sam prvi profesionalni ribar u Viru – započeo je priču Tonči Liverić, svima na Viru poznat kao Spavalica. Djed mi je zaradio nadimak Spavalica, poslije su i oca tako zvali, danas mene. To je tako. Djed je kao siromašan dječak čuvao blago (stoku) mještanima. Kada bi nakon toga došao u školu zaspao bi u klupi, pa su ga nazvali spavalicom. Već kao mladić djed je otišao u Ameriku, trbuhom za kruhom. Kopao je Panamski kanal. Kada se vratio najveću je kuću u Viru napravio. Nije ga dugo držalo mjesto i krenuo je za Kanadu. Nesreća je bila čest suputnik ljudima toga doba, mom djedu najteži. Kada su krenuli za Povljanu na Pagu brodićem (par milja razdaljine op.u.), po mirnom moru brodić se prevrnuo. Utopila se moja baka, stric, od djedova brata žena i još troje. Ukupno se šestoro njih utopilo. Djed je ostao još godinu u Viru jer je morao naći novu ženu. Trebao je netko brinuti o djeci dok je on u Kanadi. U Kanadi se zaposlio kao portir u javnoj kući. Kako mu je sve što čovjek treba bilo pri ruci, ušparao je djed puno para i bogat se vratio u Vir. Moj otac, lud čovjek, napravio petoro djece i otišao od majke da se više nikad ne vrati. Eto, to je ukratko povjest Spavalica. Osim ovih šest brodova imao sam i svoju letjelicu, a pista mi je, kao i ona u Zemuniku, išla preko ceste. Dropulićka mi srušila hangar; letjelicu sam dao u Vrbovac, pa više nemam ništa na toj strani. Samo ovih šest brodova i restoran „Kod Spavalice“. U par rečenica rečeno, a životopis gust kao sinopsis velike filmske priče.

KRISTIJAN KAPOVIĆ NAČELNIK OPĆINE VIR CHIEF OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF VIR

ada bi smo pravili neku top ljestvicu po pitanju medijskih kontraverzi u odnosu na načelnike općina zadarske Županije, Kristijan Kapović bi se sigurno našao u play offu. Međutim, kada iskoraknemo iz medija u realnu stvarnost stvari stoje drugačije. Pripremajući napis o Viru danima sam razgovarao s ekipom ljudi koji predstavljaju dio čelne administracije Općine Vir i kao nigdje drugdje susreo ljude otvorene svim pitanjima i konstruktivnoj komunikaciji. Snimili smo tisuće fotografija Vira: iz zraka, s mora i kopna, i nigdje nismo ugledali zamršeni čvor poludjele izgradnje. Naprotiv, pravilan raster ulica upućivao nas je više na prigradski urbanizam nekog većeg grada nego na malo mjesto koje su mediji proglasili laureatom divlje izgradnje. Oduvjek se govorilo: Kada netko o tebi loše misli valja se zapitati o tome. Kada više ljudi misli o tebi loše, već je manje razloga za brigu. A kada su svi protiv tebe, znači da si na dobrom putu. Svaki grad i svako mjesto u Dalmaciji, danas, ima manje-više slična turistička naselja kao i Vir. Specifičnost Vira je samo u tom što nema jedno ili dva takva naselja, već deset i više, pa je možda i tu razlog nesmiljene kampanje koja je proteklih godina medijskim crnilom bojalo otok Vir i njegove čelne ljude. Na licu mjesta, izvan stranica dnevnog tiska, rekoh, stvari stoje posve drugačije.

f we would set out to create a who’s who list top ranking, with regards to media controversy, of the municipality leaders of the Zadar region, Kristijan Kapović, without a doubt, would find himself in the playoffs. On the other hand, when we step away from the media glare into reality, the situation is quite different. While preparing our piece on Vir I spoke for days with teams of people representing a portion of Vir’s ruling administration, and like nowhere else I met people open to all questions and constructive communication. We took over a thousand pictures of Vir: aerial, from the sea and from the ground and nowhere did we witness a tangled knot of construction gone mad. Quite the contrary, the proper layout of streets reminded us more of suburban city planning of some larger city instead of a small place the media labeled as being overrun with uncontrolled construction. It has always been said: When someone thinks badly of you it is worthwhile to ask why. When a larger group of people think badly of you, that is a lesser reason for worry. And when everyone is lined up against you, that is a sign that you are on the right path. Today, every city and locality in Dalmatia have similar touristic communities like that of Vir. What is specific to Vir is the fact that it does not have just one or two of these types of communities, in fact it has over ten, and maybe here lies the reason for the merciless media campaign of the last several years that has tried to paint the island of Vir, and its leaders, with a black tinted brush. Standing in heart of the area, outside of the pages of our daily newspapers, it can be said that reality is totally different.

Gospodine Kapović, čini se kao da pomalo jenjava medijska stigmatizacija Vira? Mislim kako ničim nismo zaslužili takvu razinu medijske kampanje, ali na sreću, sve je to već iza nas. Konačno su nas počeli doživljavati kao „normalno“ mjesto, sa svim kvalitetama i manama kakva, uostalom, sva mjesta na Jadranu imaju. Postavili smo temelje za snažan razvoj otoka i trudimo se razvijati našu Općinu u pravcu urbane cjeline.

Mr. Kapović, it seems like the media stigma surrounding Vir has eased up? There was no reason whatsoever for such a media fuss, but luckily, all that is now behind us. They have finally begun to

Kakve je posljedice ostavila ona silna buka oko rušenja, koja je mjesecima punila naslovnice dnevnika? Negativne, s obzirom na to da je srušeno 100 objekata, ali iz lošega je izašlo i nešto dobroga Virani su, da se malo našalim, konačno shvatili da postoji Država. Znate, specifičnost Vira je u tome da je otok u potpunosti u vlasništvu mještana. Nema niti jednog pedlja zemlje koji je u vlasništvu države, i Virani su se uistinu ponašali kao da država ne postoji. Kao, sve je to naše i nitko nama neće govoriti šta da radimo s ovim ili onim što je naše. Intervencijom, država je unijela red u proces razmišljanja pojedinca. Oni su naprosto shvatili kako se moraju mijenjati i da postoje određena pravila koja moraju poštivati. To se odnosi na stalne i privremene stanovnike Vira.

accept us as a „normal“ locality, with all the qualities and faults of every locality on the Adriatic. We have laid the groundwork for strong island development and we are trying evolve our municipality in the direction of an urban entity. What have been the after effects of all the noise regarding demolition that graced the covers of our local newspapers for months on end? Quite negative if you take into account that over 100 structures were demolished, but from the bad came a little bit of good, for the first time Vir’s citizens, if I can joke a bit, understood that our government actually exists. The specific quality of Vir lies in the fact that the island, in its entirety, is owned by local residents. There isn’t one inch of land that is owned by the state, and Vir’s citizens, for the most part, acted as if the government did not exist. Like, all of this is ours and no one is going to tell us what we can and can’t do with what is ours. The government’s intervention has brought a sense of order and stability to the thinking process of certain individuals. They finally realized they needed to change and that there existed rules they had to respect. This refers to full-time and part-time residents of Vir.

Koliko je, uopće, srušeno objekata? Od predviđenih 500-tinjak srušeno je oko 100 objekata. Od toga, u stvari, 50 izgrađenih i 50 objekata započete gradnje. Ostalih 400 našlo je svoje mjesto u novom prostornom planu Vira. Virani s ponosom ističu kako je Vir u cijelosti njihov, a premrežen je naseljima koja su sada u tuđem privatnom vlasništvu? Vir je previše vremena bio izložen snažnom medijskom pritisku. Unatrag desetak godina jedva da je što pozitivnog napisano o našem otoku. Ovdje se trebala graditi nuklearka, nakon toga termoelektrana pa se prijetilo rušenjem tisuća objekata i mještani su, jednako kao što bi sve obiteljske zajednice to učinile, počeli razmišljati na slijedeći način: Prodajmo što imamo, Vir je ionako na pragu uništenja. Ako se ne pobrinemo sami za sebe, nitko drugi neće! Takvo je razmišljanje imalo za posljedicu da se zemlja prodavala za neprimjereno malu cijenu što je rezultiralo velikim brojem objekata. Kada je ova garnitura izvršne vlasti došla na čelo Vira, kao misiju stavili smo ispred sebe zadaću: Privoliti mještane da počnu cjeniti svoj otok, svoju imovinu, i konačno, sebe same. Rezultat toga je da je nakadašnjih 10 € za kvadratni metar građevinske parcele sada naraslo na gotovo 200 €, u prvom redu do mora.

How many structures were demolished in total? Of the 500 or so that were to be demolished, about 100 ended up being knocked down in the end. From that total, 50 structures were fully completed and 50 were in the early phases of construction. The remaining 400 found their place in Vir’s new urban plans. Residents of Vir take pride in pointing out that Vir is theirs in its entirety, while the island is covered in communities in the private ownership of foreigners. Vir was exposed to media pressure for far too long. Going back ten years you would be hard pressed to find a positive article written about our island. A nuclear power plant was to be built here, after that there was talk about the construction of a thermoelectric power plant, then there came the threats of demolition of thousands of structures, all of this forced residents, as any family community would, to think in the following way: Let’s sell what we have, Vir is on the threshold of being leveled. If we don’t take care of ourselves, no one else will! That type of thinking had tragic consequences, one of them being the selling of land for inappropriately low prices which resulted in greater construction. When the current executive leadership took control of Vir, we set for ourselves a mission: to persuade residents to value their island, their property, and finally, themselves. The result of all that was the one time price of 10€ per square meter of building parcel jumping to 200€ per square meter directly on the sea.

Primjetno je već i letimičnim razgledavanjem otoka da su gotovo sve prometnice asfaltirane, da su naselja pod javnom rasvjetom, da se polažu vodovodne i kanalizacijske cijevi. Utisak je da se puno napravilo na infrastrukturi otoka? Do 2003. godine (kada je koalicija SDP-HSS-HSLS došla na vlast. op.u.) ukupna prometna infrastruktura bila je dugačka dvadesetak kilometara. Naselja su bila bez ikakve infrastrukture (neuređene plaže, prometnice, ne postojanje javne rasvjete) Danas, šest godina poslije, na Viru je pod asfaltom oko 250 kilometara novih prometnica, a svih 25 naselja je povezano prometnicama s centrom Vira. Samo smo ove godine postavili deset kilometara javne rasjvete i započeli projekt vodovodne mreže i kanalizacijskog sustava. Ne zaboravite da je kompletan Vir trenutno na crnim jamama i bunarima. Već 2010. očekujemo prve priključke na novi sustav.

A quick glance over the island reveals that practically all roads have been paved, communities have public lighting, and that water and sewer pipes are being installed. The impression received is that much has been done with regards to the island’s infrastructure. Until 2003 (when the SDP-HSS-HSLS political coalition took office – editor) the road infrastructure totaled about 20 kilometers. Communities were without infrastructure of any

To iziskuje nemala sredstva? U pravu ste, ulaganja su velika. Procjena Hrvatskih voda iz

sort (undeveloped beaches, roads, non-existent public lighting). Today, six years later, Vir has over 250 kilometers of paved roads, all 25 communities are connected to the road leading to Vir’s center. This year alone over 10 kilometers of public lighting was installed, and work on the construction of a waterworks and sewage systems has commenced. By 2010 we expect the first connections to the new system.

2003. godine je da sustav vodovoda i kanalizacije na Viru, za postojeće stanje 9 000 objekata, odnosno za sustav s maksimalnim opterećenjem 62 000 korisnika, košta otprilike nešto manje od 500 milijuna kuna. Sa zadovoljstvom mogu konstatirati kako u posljednje vrijeme imamo i sve bolji odnos s institucijama države. Utisak mi je da je došlo do zamora, i medija i određenih struktura, i da je nastupilo vrijeme konstruktivne suradnje, u pravcu zajedničkog dobra. Najnovija prometna i vodovodna infrastruktura koja ide prema Viru pokazatelj je nove razine te suradnje.

Tell us what the large amounts of tourists blanketing the island means to Vir. Present day Vir numbers approximately 2,500 residents out of season. In tourist communities over 9000 residential structures, with 12,000 apartments, have been built, this means that during the summer tourist season there are over 50,000 people living on Vir. That total makes us the fourth ranked tourist destination in Zadar County. Taking first place, of course, is Zadar, followed by Biograd and Pag, and in fourth place is us – the island of Vir. And don’t let it slip your mind that Vir does not have even one organized tourist complex. Just apartments and summer houses.

Kažite nam što za Vir znači toliko mnoštvo turista koji doslovno prekriju mjesto? Vir danas, izvan turističke sezone, broji oko 2.500 stanovnika. Kako je u turističkim naseljima izgrađeno otprilike 9.000 novih stambenih objekata s približno 12.000 stanova to znači kako je u turističkoj sezoni Vir mjesto s približno 50.000 stanovnika. To nas čini četvrtom turističkom destinacijom unutar zadarske Županije. Na prvom mjestu je, naravno, Zadar, zatim Biograd, pa Pag, i na četvrtom mjestu smo mi – otok VIR. A nemojte smetnuti s uma kako otok Vir nema niti jedan organizirani turistički objekt. Samo apartmane i vikendice.

In what direction will you develop Vir? You mentioned at the beginning of our conversation that Vir will develop into an urban entity?

U kojem će te se pravcu razvijati Vir? Spomenuli ste u početko ovog razgovora kako će te se razvijate u pravcu urbane cjeline? Imamo već gotove projekte za razvoj Vira u slijedećih nekoliko godina. Prije nego nešto kažem o tome, dozvolite mi da se vratim na detalj koji sam spomenuo na početku našeg razgovora: Ono o vraćanju svijesti pojedinaca o sebi samima i o otoku kojeg posjeduju. E, vidite, to je ono što nas ispunja zadovoljstvom, ali nosi svoju cijenu. Bilo koja općina u sastavu zadarske Županije kada želi ići u investiciju, bilo vlastitu bilo s koncesionarima, otkupljuje zemlju od države uz simbolične cijene. Mi ovdje na Viru taj kvadratni metar u posjedu „danas osvještenog Viranina“, plaćamo od 25 do 100 €, ovisno o lokaciji. Još do jučer mogli smo dobiti cijenu daleko manju od navedene, danas teško. Unatoč toga, otkupili smo u općinsko vlasništvo oko 5 hektara, odnosno 50 000 m2, zemljišta za potrebe razvoja otoka.

We already have finalized plans for the development of Vir over the next several years. Before I say something about that, allow me to backtrack to one item I mentioned at the beginning of our conversation. That about returning awareness to individuals themselves and about the island they possess. That is what fills us with satisfaction, but it also comes with a price. Every municipality within the system of Zadar county, when it wants to invest, whether it be local or with concessioners, can buy land from the government for a symbolic price. We here on Vir, for that square meter of land, in the private ownership of „today’s aware citizens“, pay 25 to 100€, depending upon location. At one time we were able to get prices much lower than the above mentioned, now it is very difficult. In spite of this, we as a municipality have purchased over 5 hectares, around 50,000 m2, of land needed for the further development of the island.

Što će te graditi na tom prostoru? Na prostoru koji smo otkupili već se završava ambulanta i dječji vrtić, otkupljeno je zemljište za izgradnju nove osnovne škole sa sportskom dvoranom. Prostor mjesnog groblja će se proširiti te dobiti novu kapelicu i mrtvačnicu. Sportsko-rekreacijski centar s velikim igralištem, atletskom stazom, tenis centrom te drugim igralištima za različite sportove s pratećim objektima isto tako će biti lociran na zemljištu koje smo otkupili. Da bi doskočili velikom trošku otkupa zemljišta veliki dio investicija u budućnosti desiti će se na pomorskom dobru. Izgradit će se tri Marine s oko 900 vezova, sportsko – rekreacijski centar s otvorenim bazenom i privezište u Radovanjici za male brodove. Već smo uredili šetnice i plaže. Trebate znati da je Vir mlado mjesto, puno mlađe od mnogih mjesta zadarske županije, i s dosta posebnosti koje ga razlikuju od ostalih mjesta. Gotovo svaka kuća u Viru dala je jednog pomorca, svaka treća svjetioničara, a povijest nam je odredilo ratarstvo i stočarstvo. Nemamo nikakvu ribarsku tradiciju, naše je stanovništvo dinarskog mentaliteta. Vidjeli ste i sami, i crkva nam je više od kilometra udaljena od mora. Jedinstveni smo kao otočko mjesto koje nikada nije imalo veću luku ili rivu za privez brodova. Danas, u mnogočemu, krećemo od početka tako da se veselimo marini koja će dati jednu posve novu vizuru našem mjestu, jednako kao i privezište za male brodove. Naravno, po naravi stvari to će povući i razne druge sadržaje i tu vidimo novu profilaciju Vira kao turističku i nautičku destinaciju koja bi bila zamašnjak turističkog razvoja regije. Ekipa ljudi koja čini Poglavarstvo Općine Vir generacijski je prilično bliska? To nam u mnogome olakšava komunikaciju. Sličnih smo svjetonazora i sinergija zajedništva donosi dobre rezultate. Svi smo Virani i snažno osjećamo svoje mjesto. Mislim kako je to vidljivo u svakom potezu koji činimo, na svakom pedlju otoka.

What do you plan to build? On land that we have purchased, construction of a medical clinic and day-care center are nearing completion, other purchased lands are reserved for the construction of a new elementary school with accompanying sports facility. The local cemetery will expand and will receive a small chapel and mortuary. A large sports and recreation center with large playing field, running tracks, tennis court and other facilities for various sports will also be located on parcels of land that we have purchased. To solve the problem of great expense regarding land purchases, a large portion of future investments will be located on maritime domain. Three marinas with over 900 berths are planned for construction, as is a sports and recreation center with an open air pool and loading berth for small boats in Radovanjica. We have already developed walking paths and beaches. You have to understand that Vir is a young destination, much younger than most places in Zadar county, and with special qualities that differentiate it from other places. Practically every household has produced one sailor, every third a lighthouse keeper, and our history was determined by war and stock farming. We don’t have any kind of fishing tradition, our community has the Dinaric mentality. You have witnessed it yourself, even our church is located more than a kilometer from the sea. As an island location we are unique in the fact that we have never had a large port or pier for docking boats. Today, in many areas, we are starting from the beginning, in this sense we rejoice at the idea of the marina that is going to give our island a new look, likewise the loading berth for smaller boats. Of course all of this will bring other services as well, and here is where we see a new proliferation of Vir as a tourist and nautical destination which will be a driving force in touristic development of the region. The team of people that make up the Municipality of Vir’s ruling body are generationally pretty close. In many aspects this makes communication all the more easier. We have a similar world view and the synergy of our partnership has brought about excellent results. We are all residents of Vir and we strongly feel our place. I think that is evident in every move we make, on every inch of the island.

More u svim rasponima modrih nijansi okružuje razvedenu obalu Vira s brojnim uvalama i uvalicama i lijepim, mjestimično gotovo djevičanskim plažama. The sea, in all its deep blue nuances, surrounds the separated coastline with numerous bays, inlets and beautiful, and in some places, pristine, virgin beaches.

9/6/09

8:10:21 PM

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