Capulalpam de Mendez

THIS BEAUTIFUL OAXACAN TOWN IS LINED WITH TREES AND MISTY FORESTS THAT ARE HOME TO EXOTIC BIRDS, WILD BOARS AND JAGUARS.

Around 6500 feet (2000 metres) above sea level, in a valley of the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range, lies one of Mexico’s most treasured yet largely undiscovered gems: the “Magical Town” of Capulálpam de Méndez.

Setting foot in this tiny town, whose permanent population is only around 1,200 people, it immediately feels as if you’ve been let in on a highly prized secret. It is a breathtakingly beautiful spot, surrounded by dense forests spread across the mountainside, which are packed with wondrous creatures and opportunities to explore.

Capulálpam de Méndez, which was founded in 1200, also remains a place where centuries-old traditions live and thrive. It is the home to the Zapotec people, one of numerous ethnic groups found in the country’s most diverse state, Oaxaca.

“Downtown” Capulálpam de Méndez, such as it is, is more reminiscent of a rustic village than an urban centre. A handful of streets

surround the 16 th -century parish church of San Mateo, whose simple limestone façade conceals a lavishly decorated interior. The ceiling of the church is original, while several devotional altarpieces, known as “retablos”, are dotted around, displaying the very best of Mexican baroque art from the 17 th and 18 th centuries. They vary in style from the most sombre to the most lush and reward a visitor’s patience in paying close examination.

Besides the church, the architecture of the town – simple adobe houses with earthen floors, often adorned with mosaics – offers a reminder of traditional Mexican village life. Climb up to the Calvario viewing point to appreciate exactly how the town fits snugly into a broad and spectacular mountain landscape.

Artisans in Capulálpam de Méndez have long produced the type of handicrafts much imitated across the world, including embroidered blouses, tablecloths, bags and other decorated pieces, as well as napkin rings, vases and carved wooden pen holders. As always, the best examples are the authentic pieces on offer right here and the thriving town market is always a hive of activity.

Similarly, inside the kitchens of the town’s simple homes, local cooks have perfected the exquisite gastronomy for which this part of Mexico is particularly known. Be sure to sample the local tlayuda, a tortilla flatbread topped with delicious vegetables and cheese, as well as tasajo, thinly sliced grilled beef.

This is as good a place as any to sample the famous mole sauces – black, red, yellow, green – and also beans with nopal, or enfrijoladas and seasonal mushroom dishes. There are countless types of traditional local breads, including one made with egg yolk. Meanwhile desserts include handmade chocolate delicacies as well as all manner of local fruits and cakes, including the tejocote, the highly sought after Mexican hawthorn, which grows particularly well in mountain regions.

You can wash all this down with a traditional tepache or pericón tea, both of which are flavoursome and invigorating. Atoles is another typical drink from the region: thick, hot and flavoured with anything from fruit to nuts, chilli to cinnamon.

You’ll want to spend some time exploring the verdant forests that surround Capulálpam de Méndez, or delve into the caves, and there are several lodges and campsites deep in the woods that can provide a base close to the most magical parts of the region.

There are countless trails that allow for excellent hiking, as well as the chance for more high octane adventures. Los Molinos Recreation Centre provides all the equipment, safety instruction and guides necessary for visitors to head out mountain biking or even abseiling over the mountainside. There’s a 330 feet (100-metre) long zip line too, which crosses a mountain river 100 feet (30 metres) below.

It’s also possible here to stretch your legs along the 7.5 mile (12km) Cerro Pelado, a path that rises through the forest to a 2 mile (3,100 metres) high summit. The most adventurous will plot a trip to hit the peak at sunrise, when you can greet the new day with the sounds of the forest birds singing in your ears. There are many camping options in the area – so you don’t need to hike through the night.

When adventuring is done for the day, and muscles are weary, help is closely at hand. Capulálpam de Méndez has grown to be regarded as a hotspot for traditional treatments and medicines, designed to harness the generations of knowledge of local doctors in improving personal wellbeing.

The Centre for Traditional Indigenous Medicine in the town, endorsed by Mexico’s Ministry of Health, draws on the richness of the vegetation that grows in the surrounding area – orchids, ferns, mosses, etc – to produce an abundance of natural remedies. The extraordinary wealth of natural resources combines with the wisdom passed down through centuries to treat all manner of contemporary ills and help restore a visitor’s spiritual balance.

At the very least, relax in a temazcal steam bath: the Maya’s fragrant, refreshing practice offers a welcome oasis to grateful travellers.

Capulálpam de Méndez distills everything most sought after in Mexico – a rich and vibrant heritage alongside fresh options for visitors – and was an obvious selection to be the first inclusion from Oaxaca on the country’s much-respected list of “Magical Towns”.