Fashion Is Political

For a long time, fashion has been associated with personal expression, serving as a means to present one’s personality and interests to the world. However, fashion has not always received full credit for the ways in which it can express one’s political beliefs and intelligence. Protest and fashion have worked together for over a hundred years (at least!). Suffragettes wore hyper-feminine clothing to make the point that one did and should not have to wear typically masculine clothing to be perceived as a strong person. The Black Panther Party for Self Defence in the 60’s created a uniform for themselves—they made the black beret synonymous with their activism. For as long as Pride Month has continued, the LGBTQ+ community has expressed their cause by wearing different variations of the rainbow. More recently, female voters in the 2016 American Presidential Election wore pantsuits when they casted their vote for Hillary Clinton. The above examples illustrate how fashion has been employed to convey identity and political matters. However, using fashion as a form of protest is not always effective. So, when does it miss the mark?

In any form of activism, it is important that all sides of the issue are considered before wearing a politically-charged garment. The Safety Pin movement following Donald Trump’s election was one that fell flat. Individuals wanted to mark themselves as an ally or “safe” to those in marginalized groups. While the original intent was sincere, being an ally calls for much more than putting on a pin. Fashion and politics work well together when the political protest is backed with action, thus producing a real impact in the lives of those being protested for. This is where the Safety Pin movement faltered—there was no real action, and many felt that it was a way displace guilty feelings. Fashion that is paired with real-world action is what creates results. In the Black Lives Matter (BLM) protests, protestors oftentimes wore black shirts adorned with the names of those who had been killed by acts of police brutality. These shirts have and continue to produce a greater support for the movement because they raise the names of those who were unjustly silenced. Personal style has also been deemed important to the movement, showcasing that no matter how people of colour choose to represent themselves, it is beautiful and worthy. As of late, casual style has also seen a great increase in t-shirts with political slogans. Brands ranging from high fashion—such as Dior’s “We Should All Be Feminists” shirt—to everyday wear—such as the slogan “Girls Support Girls”—can be found throughout the fashion world. However, this increase is dangerous as the line between political movement and aesthetics becomes increasingly permeable. While many stores that sell shirts with feminist slogans send the proceeds to where it matters, many brands are only catching onto a “trend,” rendering the meaning of these slogans hollow.

An example of this hollowing occurs when a consumer buys a “Girls Support Girls” shirt made in a sweatshop via child labour. By buying a shirt made in this way, the consumer is subscribing to selective feminism because they are not truly supporting women from all walks of life. However, this does not mean that all shirts with feminist or political slogans should be shied away from; many companies succeed in selling political garments to empower individuals. Bulletin, located both online and in New York City, donates 10% of profits to Planned Parenthood NYC. They also host events where women can hear panelists discuss sexuality, relationships, and self-love. This creates an opportunity to build a community where female entrepreneurs can sell their wares. Fashion has never been just about the fabric. Fashion is and has always been about expression, whether of personality or politics. In terms of politics, fashion has the potential to start important conversations around timely political issues, serving as a visual representation of one’s beliefs. Though fashion may be an easy way to support a political standpoint, the actions beyond the garment are the ones that ring louder and farther than any piece of clothing can.

By Cassanda Littlewood | Photography by Morgan Chin-Yee