No 2 MUUSE MAGAZINE
Heidi Paula × MUUSE
MUUSE is an international fashion label that produces capsule collections with some of the best design talents around the world, to bring visionary fashion to your wardrobe. MUUSE Editions are available on www.muuse.com and at selected retailers.
No 2 MUUSE MAGAZINE
OUR THANKS TO Walter van Beirendonck
Marie Hindkær Wolthers
Mark Bertelsen
Trine Hyldtoft
Charlie Bredal
Magnus Klar
Uffe Buchard
Gorjan Lauseger
Bo Egestrøm
Sara Maino
Eloise Florio
Lasse Pedersen
Justin French
Anne Staunsager
Dorothea Gundtoft
Oliver Stalmans
Gitte Guldhammer
Sabrina Szinay
Fritz Hansen
Anti Wendel
MUUSE
CONTACT MUUSE
Editors Gitte Jonsdatter Natasha Skou Creative Director Katarina Dahlström Contributor Isabella Hemmersbach Writer Melissa McKenna Graphic Designer Christy Chen
Sankt Getruds Stræde 6E København 1129 Denmark press@muuse.com www.muuse.com
COVER Photographer Oliver Stalmans Styling Dorothea Gundtoft Clothing Jacket from the VOID collection by Yvonne Laufer
Contents
From Dream to Reality 03 Catching Up with ECE GÖZEN
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All About MUUSE 06 Starting the Fashion Engine 08 MUUSE & Fashion Scout From Catwalk to Boutique
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SASHA NASSAR'S Arab Spring 1 1 MARIE HINDKÆR WOLTHERS Blames It on Fashion
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Stylish Creatives 20 Ground Control 26 OLIVER STALMANS on Connecting with People
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A Moment with WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
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Upcoming MUUSE Editions 34 Developing PLAN# with DANIEL SILVERSTAIN
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Future Style Scouting Global Talent in London
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Nocturnal Events 44
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Creative Direction Uffe Buchard Photography Bo Egestrøm Make-up Anne Staunsager Model Charlie Bredal, UNIQUE Models VOID Silk Dress Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE
From Dream to Reality Sara Maino Senior Fashion Editor, Vogue Italia & Editor, Vogue Talents
INTRO
Sara Maino on what brings MUUSE and VOGUE Talents together.
visibility - young talents need support throughout their journey, to give them the help they need to foster them and promote their growth. Vogue Talents is core to this designer support system in the truest sense. Just one of the protagonists, we work together with the designers, the readers, the talent scouts, and the industry. We aim to help bring the together to a constellation of partners who can supply everything a designer needs - from production, to sales, to promotion. As part of the constellation of designer support, MUUSE is a perfect partner for Vogue Talents. The MUUSE team picks up after the catwalk show lights go off, and helps designers get down to the business of developing and producing commercially sellable collections. This bringing together of materials experts, tailors and marketing expertise to collaborate makes MUUSE one of the key partners in our goal to discover great talent - and bring those designers from vision to commercial reality.
Fashion is all about creativity and innovation - and for us the future is in emerging designers. Supporting young talents is for us a labor of love - but also a necessity for the future of our industry. We believe so strongly in this, that we invest time in keeping our eyes on what is going on globally to discover and promote the best emerging talent. From Asia, to Europe, Scandinavia and Latin America - we're pleased to be in a position to make the best designers visible to the world, through Vogue Talents, which has become the international online space to discover the best of emerging talent.
About Vogue Talents Vogue Italia is the premiere go-to space for discovering new fashion talents. Together with AltaRoma, Vogue Italia promotes Who is on Next?, a scouting project – this year in its 9th edition, and in 2008 a section dedicated to menswear was launched. The MUUSE × VOGUE Talents Young Vision Competition is currently in it's 3rd edition.
Fostering talent in a meaningful way is a much bigger matter than just publishing their collections however! Success is not just a matter of
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MUUSE NO 2
Catching Up with
MUUSE × VOGUE TALENTS
ECE GÖZEN
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Ece Gözen of Istanbul won the 2013 MUUSE × VOGUE Talents Young Vision Award. Her MUUSE Edition collection DIVIDE has just hit stores this fall. Elisa Pervinca Bellini of VOGUE Italia caught up with Ece about her inspiration and future plans.
What's the concept of your collection? For the most part, what inspires me is Escher’s work on the mathematical structure of the Universe, and his skillful combination of this with art. I translate these ideas into fashion, by combining various textures and geometrical forms inspired by some of the more well-known works of Escher.
What do you think of this type of award? It means a lot to me, since it is the very first award I have received on an international platform. Winning an award in an international contest will surely be a milestone in my career. Thanks to MUUSE and Vogue Italia, I have made the initial step on the path of becoming a brand. Soon, my capsule collection, with the label Ece Gözen by MUUSE, will be produced and sold. It is an exciting collaboration. What are your future projects? I'm very excited about my future and it’s going quite well right now. The MUUSE × VOGUE Talents award widened my press coverage both locally and internationally. I continue to work hard for a catwalk show in an important fashion week. This will be an amazing road, and the future seems so bright for me!
MUUSE × VOGUE TALENTS
Why did you decide to participate in the contest? In October, I got an e-mail from the MUUSE × Vogue Talents team, inviting me to join the competition. They had seen my work and asked me to take part. Although it was the last three days to enter the competition, I jumped at the chance. The opportunity to win a global award was very exciting.
Who is your muse? I imagine a very confident women, who is open to what is new, hiding her femininity behind a sporty look. I design for women who are inspiring and mysterious. For example, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Alice Dellal, and Cara Delevingne. Reprinted with permission of Vogue Talents
Ece Gözen Ece Gözen won the MUUSE × VOGUE Talents Young Vision Award in 2012, for her collection "Illusional Harmony." She defines her style as "Sport-Couture," designing for a confident and mysterious woman who hides her feminity behind a sportive shell. Shop the Ece Gözen × MUUSE DIVIDE collection on www.muuse.com
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All About
MUUSE
SCOUTING Together with tastemakers in fashion capitals from Tokyo to London, we search the planet to find a small number of
PRODUCING Our team of materials experts and tailors works with designers to develop high quality collections made to last. Pieces are produced in small editions from 1 - 100.
ABOUT MUUSE
international talents to support each year.
SELLING Designer pieces are for sale in our webshop, and at select retailers. Visit www.MUUSE.com for stock lists or to buy direct from MUUSE.
CONNECTING We are at the center of a conversation about new fashion. Read about up & coming fashion on www.MUUSE.com, subscribe to our newsletter, and follow us on social media channels.
Single Thread Silk Blouse Hellen van Rees Ă— MUUSE
MUUSE NO 2
Starting the Fashion Engine Justin French Fashion Editor
INTERVIEW
Justin French, Fashion Editor XXY Magazine, spoke with Gitte Jonsdatter and David Dencker, Co-founders of MUUSE.
What sort of qualities in a designer does MUUSE look for? We look for designers with an original personal vision, who can express it well at every level - from the concept, to the visual storytelling of their editorial down to the details of finish. We love designers who show us something new, whose vision of style is entirely their own.
limited edition MUUSE pieces in the future. In terms of collaborating with young designers is it a 50/50 process or are the results primarily a direct reflection of their sensibility? Great clothing starts with design vision, but there is also a lot of technical expertise that goes into it. The designer brings the point of view and design direction, and our tailors work with them to be sure the pieces fit well, that they accommodate how people move. Our production manager advises on what textiles will last, and what printing and finishing techniques will ensure the pieces wear well. It's hard to put a precise percentage on it - but every piece is a design journey the team takes together. The important thing is that the designer is fully along for the entire journey, so if production requires a change, the designer is part of the decision.
What is your opinion regarding the rapid pace of production and expectation in the fashion industry today? The speed of production in 'Fast Fashion' is dizzying. Producing clothing that is only intended to last a few months is indefensible. People criticize the companies that do this for being wasteful - but obviously a lot of us are shopping there, or they would not be in business. Ironically, all this buying and discarding is not necessarily less expensive in the long run - you've just spent a lot of time shopping - and created a lot of landfill along the way. Elizabeth Cline described the situation really well in her book Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. This should be required reading for anyone who buys clothing.
What sort of reading material would we find on your coffee table? We're a pretty eclectic bunch. At our office you'll find everything from catalogues of every type of zipper on the market to A magazine, to guides to e-commerce. The Antwerp Royal Academy's annual magazine, DANSK and The Gentlewoman are a few favorites that tend to be on top of the stacks.
Do you think fashion’s current pace is sustainable? We see a lot of talk about thoughtful consumption, about buying less, and about supporting small brands. It's a really nice idea, though we fear there are more good intentions than action. Ultimately, someone has to figure out how to produce quality clothing in a cost efficient way - and we as consumers have to acknowledge what it costs, and pay what the clothing is worth.
What sort of exciting things can we expect to see further down the pipeline from MUUSE? We're focusing on sales right now - building partnerships with some great online and offline retailers, some specialty fashion fairs, so we can get out to a much larger audience. We're also getting involved in some international competitions as sponsors and partners - so working a bit closer with the fashion media.
Do you believe your approach will have the opportunity to encourage consumers to appreciate and demand quality over quantity? That's certainly our goal. We're producing in small editions and hold our producers to high quality standards, so that the pieces will last as long as someone is willing to take care of them. We imagine a trade of collectible,
This year you'll see a lot more MUUSE Edition collections coming out - and selling in more places!
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OUR GIFT TO YOU With your first order on MUUSE.com, please enjoy a designer scarf from our shop as our gift. Just add the scarf to your order, and use the promo code DANSK upon checkout.
MUUSE & Fashion Scout
From Catwalk to Boutique
MUUSE × FASHION SCOUT
MUUSE & Fashion Scout team up to present new ready-to-order collections for buyers at fashion weeks in London and Paris.
This year, MUUSE and Fashion Scout have teamed up to present a designer award that is unique in the industry. The MUUSE × Fashion Scout Award brings one talented designer collection to London and Paris Fashion Weeks. MUUSE sponsors the development of the capsule collection, and Fashion Scout showcases this collection to press and buyers.
We cannot think of a better way to help buyers and press meet the new generation of talent - and order new designer collections they can confidently stock immediately, with production quality that luxury labels could envy.
Find MUUSE at Fashion Scout London 13 - 17 September, Paris 24 September - 2 October
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SASHA NASSAR'S Arab Spring
MUUSE × FASHION SCOUT
The MUUSE × Fashion Scout Award winner challenges limits with a thought-provoking collection.
Photograph by Patrice Stable. Lace sponsored by Sophie Hallette.
Sasha Nassar, winner of the MUUSE × Fashion Scout Award at London Graduate Fashion Week‘s International Show spoke with MUUSE about her graduate collection – pieces that captured the judges group as a rare mix of garments that are both beautifully designed and also thought-provoking.
this. I realized that now is the time to take responsibility and begin this journey. I started to feel inside of me that it’s time for the Arab women to have an “Arab Spring” of their own and that means no longer being ashamed of our bodies, our heritage, our tastes and culture. I march into this progress without apology, standing tall with a vision that carries new values that the world of fashion can embrace. In this collection we see a sheer Burka with Islamic patterns that becomes a western evening dress. This is an example of the revolution that the Arab Spring demanded, while still keeping our culture and history.
What was the inspiration behind your collection? I grew up in a multicultural family, a mixture of Jewish and Arab nationalities. During my studies at Marangoni, while trying to fulfill my long life dream, the world was in turmoil around the Arab Spring. My Arab “brothers and sisters” were calling out for a change, an opportunity for new beginnings and progress.
Read the full interview and more information about the MUUSE × Fashion Scout prize on www.muuse.com
This part of my journey required me to ask myself why am I doing all of
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MUUSE NO 2
MARIE HINDKÆR WOLTHERS Blames It on Fashion
We asked Marie Hindkær Wolthers, blogger and editor of Luelle Magazine, to style her favourite MUUSE pieces designed by Yvonne Laufer and Mary Patton. These collections will be in stores this September. Photography & Creative Direction Katarina Dahlström Styling Marie Hindkær Wolthers Hair & Make-up Line Ahnstrøm, United Makeup Academy
Signature Wool Blazer & Signature Wool Pants Yvonne Laufer Ă— MUUSE
Signature Wool Blazer Yvonne Laufer Ă— MUUSE
Limit Silk Shirt & Signature Wool Pants Yvonne Laufer Ă— MUUSE
Voyager Jersey Dress Mary Patton Ă— MUUSE
“You don't need to be trendy to be stylish.”
Limit Silk Shirt Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE Voyager Stretch Cotton Skirt Mary Patton × MUUSE
“Fashion is … heritage and a tradition.”
Signature Wool Pants Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE
Voyager Stretch Cotton Skirt Mary Patton × MUUSE Limit Silk Shirt Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE
STYLISH
CREATIVES
MARIE HINDKÆR WOLTHERS Blogger and Editor
DOROTHEA GUNDTOFT Stylist, Author and Co-founder of N° Magazine
ELOISE FLORIO Stylist and Designer
MUUSE met up with three of Scandinavia's most stylish, creative women to hear what's on their minds, read what's on their coffee tables - and see what's in their wardrobes. Photography Katarina Dahlström
MARIE HINDKÆR WOLTHERS Blogger, Blameitonfashion.com Editor, Luellemag.com
Who or what inspires you the most? I get most of my inspiration from browsing through tons of catwalk looks every season. Usually it’s the details that attract my attention, as opposed to an entire look. What people don't know about you is... that I used to dye my hair red – the horror of being a teenager! Preferred social media?
Easy! Instagram.
Your own style in three words? Simple/ Effortless/ Scandi-chic.
How has the fashion industry changed because of online? It is more accessible now than before the global advent of online shopping. Especially with all the fashion blogs, there is a broad appeal beyond traditional fashion outlets – the print magazines.
Where and when did you learn your sense of style? I’ve always been interested in fashion. It probably comes from my parents interest in art specifically, and the notion that aesthetics are important in general.
What triggers your interest when looking at new designer collections? I always look for exciting details, sculptural silhouettes, interesting juxtapositions, tactile quality and the mix of fabrics.
Trend vs. Style? You don’t need to be trendy to be stylish and being trendy doesn’t necessarily mean that you are stylish. A trend is a contemporary, passing thing whereas style remains a cultivated and permanent set of personal ideas that direct you. Real style is timeless.
Old or new fashion? I never shop vintage – simply because I don’t have the patience or desire for it. However fashion is more than the current trend, it is a heritage and a tradition and I love to study fashion history. I’m particularly fascinated by the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent.
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1. Complex Glitter Dress, Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE So simple, so beautiful. I love how the drape takes it from plain to interesting.
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STYLE ICONS
Luna Wool Coat, Mary Patton × MUUSE
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simple tee and the matching blazer. 4. Voyager Jersey Dress, Mary Patton × MUUSE Knee-length is the new short – and this dress is an instant favourite. Wear it with heels when drinks are on the menu or style it with loafers for a day at work.
2. Limit Silk Shirt, Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE Shirts are an important part of my wardrobe and this one will for sure become a new favourite of mine.
5. Luna Wool Coat, Mary Patton × MUUSE The voluminous shape, the ¾ sleeves, the mix of fabrics – what’s not to love about this coat?
3. Signature Wool Pants, Yvonne Laufer × MUUSE A twisted classic, which looks great with a silk shirt and heels as well as worn with a
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DOROTHEA GUNDTOFT Stylist, Author and Co-founder of N° Magazine
Your own style in three words? Elegant/ Business/ Eccentric.
share with friends without needing to talk. How has the fashion industry changed because of online media? The future is online, this is why I started the first tablet only lifestyle magazine in Scandinavia that is also published in English, called N° Magazine.
Trend vs. Style? Always style. A trend fades and where does that leave your personality? One should find themselves in literature, movies, music and art, and wear what reflects ones thoughts and aspirations.
What triggers your interest when looking at new talent? If I can see that a designer thinks about their design and there has been put effort and thought into the references then I am keen to know more. I need to see intelligent design, not some clown costume or dull materials.
STYLE ICONS
Who or what inspires you? I am inspired by strong women such as Diana Vreeland, or Anna Wintour, who manages to be at the top surrounded by powerful men but are the women deciding what goes and what does not. I am also inspired by movies like The Leopard by Luchino Visconti, Basic Instinct from 1992, interviews where Woody Allen talks about Ingmar Bergman, the artist Leigh Ledare, Helmut Newton women...On my wall I have an image of Iris Apfel in Italy by a lemon tree. I wouldnt mind being like that in my seventies! Or Zelda Kaplan dying at a fashion show.
What do you think is the most important thing(s) to become a successful designer in the fashion industry? Great design, style and PR. Old or new? Hard one. I can't choose because all new things come from the old. We mold it into new things. We take designers from the 1930's and reuse their shapes today. The future is very exciting, but the old things have history which is hard to beat.
What people don't know about me is... I studied electronic music and play the synthesizer. Preferred social media to use? Instagram because it is like a visual diary of your everyday life that you
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1. Voyager Stretch Cotton Skirt, Mary Patton × MUUSE This skirt is great because it's minimal but still values design and function. The lines are graphical and architectural which are good for business meetings while still being fashion forward.
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it's too hot for layering. Finally summer clothing that is not romantic! 4. Woven Silk Dress, Hellen van Rees × MUUSE Toned down dress for everyday use. It's very basic and easy going, but the print is still hi tech and abstract. It reminds me of Berlin, and is a great everyday office dress.
2. Voyager Stretch Cotton Blazer, Mary Patton × MUUSE I love this jacket because of the different elements combined together. You can see straight away that this is special and not something bought on the high street. I prefer to have pieces that not everyone wears, and this would be great with a dress, or as a full set with the skirt. It is the future power dressing.
5. La-Dune-du-Pilat Cotton Dress, David Vallance × MUUSE I really like shirts that have a masculine side. Structured clothes that are linear and simple are great to wear when you are busy and can't think, this piece has an extra dimension since it is open at the back. I would wear this out for a cocktail, since I like the surprise element, it looks simple on the front but on the other side very sensual.
3. PLAN #5 Silk Dress, Daniel Silverstain × MUUSE Very clean cut and a classic that you can wear for meetings or in the summer when
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1. Dorothea wears Tailor-made Solid Wool Jacket by Ece Gรถzen. 2. Tailor-made Mint Lasercut Dress by Wali Mohammed Barrech. 3. Tailor-made Cube Wool Skirt by Ece Gรถzen.
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ELOISE FLORIO Stylist and Designer
Your own style in three words? Modern/ Contemporary/ Classics.
old news, but style is based on classics and they will never die. How has the fashion industry changed because of online media? Fashion today is just much more accessible, mainly because of bloggers, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and so on. Social media has given us the ability to reach a much larger audience to read our news and give us feedback. So yes, online media has changed the fashion industry; It has given the industry a playground in which to be even more successful. The mysterious and exclusive fashion industry has opened the doors and made people feel connected. And people want to feel connected.
Something people don't know about me is... That I will not return to this planet again. Who or what inspires you? People who you can see have a culture within their own fashion and dare to express themselves without any influence from the 'trendy part' of the fashion industry. Music, art and the history of fashion all have a big impact in my inspiration research. Some of my biggest inspirations are: American artist Georgia O'Keeffe, American-Greek singer Maria Callas and Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
What triggers your interest when looking at new talent? When I can sense the classic elements in an innovative design. What do you think is the most important thing(s) to become a successful designer in the fashion industry? Besides being a really good designer with talent, a designer has to be equally good at understanding the business of the fashion industry.
What is your opinion on trend vs. style? Yves Saint Laurent once said "Fashion fades, but style is eternal" and I agree. Looking at trends is like reading the news and news soon becomes
Which do you prefer: old or new fashion? I prefer old fashion, but transforming it into something new.
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STYLE ICONS
What is your preferred social media to use? At the moment I prefer Instagram; It's a raw and quick media to use and it's amazing to see that others from all over the world are interested in following your work.
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1. Dark Glow Woolen Skirt, Heidi Paula × MUUSE 2. Sky Viscose Dress, Abigail Stewart × MUUSE 3. Anatomic Silk Dress, Caterina Ciuffoletti × MUUSE 4. Dimensional Jersey Top, Natsumi Zama × MUUSE 5. Surface Silk Boucle Dress, Yusuke Maegawa × MUUSE
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GROUND CONTROL Photographer Oliver Stalmans, Tomorrow Management Styling Dorothea Gundtoft Make-up & Hair Sidsel Marie Bøg, Tomorrow Management Model Cecilie D, Scoop Models Retouching Oliver Stalmans
Mig Metallic Sleeveless Coat Mary Patton Give in Lace Top Heidi Paula Ă— MUUSE
PLAN #5 Silk Dress Daniel Silverstain Ă— MUUSE Asymmetric Black Skirt Daniel Silverstain Mondrian Wool Vest Daniel Silverstain
VOID Connect Dress Yvonne Laufer
OLIVER STALMANS on Connecting with People
I think working from the heart is the only source worth working for - that's where your inner genius gets the chance to shine. Of course you also have to be talented at what you do as well as lucky in the sense you are able to meet the right people at the right time.
Any new special projects in the making? At the moment I am possibly planing an exhibition in Milan which would be awesome to do and on a more personal photography plan I am starting a project that portrays people who are sick with incurable diseases, together with their family members. This is a very tough yet beautiful thing to be part of.
How did you get into fashion? It actually happened pretty naturally, I started out shooting a lot of different images while finishing high school. At that time I shot a lot of still life documentary and portraits of friends and people I met who I thought had a good expression to capture on film, after that I got an opportunity to shoot backstage during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Since then I have developed my photography within fashion and portrait as a profession however I still shoot other stuff for my personal satisfaction.
INTERVIEW
What are your future goals? My future goals are within photography and my ongoing development as a human being.
Who or what is your source of inspiration? I never really looked at any specific beings as a exclusive inspiration source, I find my inspiration from my surroundings (family, friends, random people etc.) Inspiration for me is in the everyday things that I can transform into creative, individual statements. When I travel I sense different cultures and energies which is very beneficial for my ongoing flow of ideas and stories - however I highly appreciate and respect photographers like Herb Ritts, Helmut Newton, Avedon among others for their timeless captures of various people. What do you think is particular about your work/your vision? As I almost on all my shoots both work as the photographer and "creative director/ concept" I think what intriques the audience is that there is a red thread in my work, a strong personal aesthetic and an authenticity in the picture that comes from developing a connection with the people I work with. What is the most important thing(s) for becoming a success in the fashion industry? I think whether you are a banker, doctor or fashion photographer success comes if you work hard and work from what you as an individual are passionate about.
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A Moment with
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
INTERVIEW
An embodiment of the spirit of a genius designer who can beat the odds to establish a highly successful international brand, Walter van Bierendonck has become a name synonymous with great European independent fashion. He found a few minutes in his busy schedule to catch up with MUUSE's Gitte Jonsdatter.
You beat the odds to establish a great, independent label. Can you talk a bit about what it took to get where you are now? It was a huge fight, my whole career. And still I'm fighting to stay independent and keep my freedom. A lot of ups and downs, a kind of rollercoaster-career. I re-started from scratch a few times, but I never lost my belief in myself and fashion. Over the last few years I created a kind of frame, which gives me the possibility to create my collections in perfect freedom. Freedom to design and draw the complete collection all by myself, and freedom to come up every season with a collection that can surprise buyers and press. And, also very important, a collection which I show on the catwalk, BUT which is also completely produced and delivered to a selective series of stores all over the world!
is a phase, or is society at large becoming more educated, more thoughtful about fashion? I'm also surprised by the huge attention AND visitors that fashion exhibitions get these days. But I'm also happy with that evolution, it shows respect to the creativity of fashion designers, and pulls fashion up from a consumption-product to a cultural level, situating ourselves between other art disciplines. It illustrates also the strong link fashion has with our contemporary world. What can we can expect to see next from you? I will present my new collection my HOME sweet HOME in a few weeks in Paris, and I'm intensively working as curator on two important exhibitions: 'Happy Birthday Dear Academie' is about 350 years of Antwerp Academy and the other is about 50 years of the fashion department, in MOMU, it is opening 7th of September in Antwerp.
Your works have long been included in exhibits, publications and more artistic contexts - it seems like increasingly Fashion is being understood as culture, with big exhibits at the V&A and the Met. Do you think this
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GET PINK Quick. What designer's hand-made piece is featured on the cover of this edition of MUUSE Magazine?
Email the answer to us at contest@muuse.com before November 1, 2013 and you'll be entered to win this MUUSE Editions jacket by the same designer.
Upcoming
MUUSE EDITIONS
TIME
MUUSE EDITIONS
Sara Lundberg Ă— MUUSE
Sara Lundberg’s MUUSE Editions collection TIME was inspired by the Big Bang theory and the events leading to the early development and expansion of the Universe.
graphic collection of multi-colored styles reminiscent of outer space and its celestial bodies. Designer Profile Swedish designer Sara Lundberg's graduate collection Framing Forest won acclaim in the Swedish fashion press on her 2012 graduation.
Sara develops her designs as an arrow for time passing, and in this collection investigates ways of communicating the metaphysical through clothing. With her signature bold prints and exaggerated fits, Sara has created a
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ALL.THAT.BUZZ
MUUSE EDITIONS
Magnea Einarsdottir × MUUSE
Magnea Einarsdóttir’s MUUSE Editions collection ALL.THAT.BUZZ was inspired by Richard Avedon’s 1981 photograph Ronald Fischer, Beekeeper. While looking at images of beekeepers and the protective clothing they wear Magnea developed a collection that plays with contrasting unusual materials and colours. Fusing simple, minimalist shapes with detailed knits and laser cut leather, Magnea stays true to her signature aesthetic of
focusing on the textiles with delicate designs that are simple but detailed. Designer Profile Icelandic designer Magnea Einarsdottir combines her passion for knitting with Scandinavian heritage by bringing a modern twist to traditional themes. Her work is delicate, simple but detailed.
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SQUID CUT
MUUSE EDITIONS
Lilia Yip × MUUSE
Lilia Yip’s MUUSE Editions collection SQUID CUT was inspired by the lovelife of the common squid. For her collection, Lilia uses conceptual pattern cuts that are inspired by the shape and behavior of these amazing cephalopods. Lilia’s muse was an intelligent woman who has an inquisitive mind, a big heart and balances the wearable, the surreal and the conceptual. A collection of asymmetric cuts, Lilia uses her artful understanding of how
to make fabric in a garment drape, flow and move with the body. Designer Profile RCA graduate Lilia Yip is always ready to challenge, in a quiet way, preconceived notions of what fashion should be.
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ABSTRACTED ESSENTIALS
MUUSE EDITIONS
Mina Lundgren × MUUSE
Mina Lundgren’s MUUSE Editions collection Abstracted Essentials approaches the body as a unit, singling out different body shapes and abstracting them into geometric blocks. Abstraction can be defined as “the art of drawing essentials from an entity”: this is precisely what Mina achieves with this collection.
female figure, and in doing so creates a collection of simplistic silhouettes with subtle, yet powerful distinctions in form. Designer Profile Mina's work investigates the possibilities of abstraction as a uniting factor for different aesthetics and expressions. Working in a geometric language, she believes in the power of subtle distinctions in form language.
Mina uses her signature aesthetic to emphasize the essential features of the
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THREEFOLD
MUUSE EDITIONS
Hellen van Rees × MUUSE
Hellen van Rees’ MUUSE Editions collection Threefold was inspired by three-dimensional art installations, and uses the number three as a common element throughout.
are kept to minimal, elegant silhouettes with surprising, edgy proportions. Designer Profile Dutch designer Hellen van Rees has received widespread praise in fashion press for her investigation and re-interpretation of Chanel's classic style, and the exquisite handcraft techniques she brings to her couture pieces.
To create the optical-illusion that her designs have 3D pieces attached and are made from woven tweed fabric, Hellen uses the digital prints to create a trompe l’oeil effect. A collection in service to print and textile, the designs
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Developing PLAN# with
DANIEL SILVERSTAIN
Photography & Creative Direction Katarina Dahlstrรถm Make-up & hair Pil Gad, United Makeup Academy Model Malene Blond, Unique Models
DESIGNER COLLABORATION
Like most creative processes, realizing a MUUSE Editions collection is 10% inspiration and 90% perspiration. Rikke, the MUUSE Production Manager and Daniel talk about what it took to develop Sliverstain's collection PLAN#, which was launched in spring/summer 2013.
Daniel The grid is an important part of PLAN#. To begin with we were working on making the lines cut from self fabric as a individual pattern piece, as this was the way I created my own collection. Through the development process the MUUSE team advised another solution to make the pieces production ready. In collaboration with the the team and the supplier, I decided to use ribbons to create the same effect.
Daniel My moodboard and loose sketches were a start - Living in NY, I draw a lot of inspiration and energy from the city, and so it's natural the grid forms a basis for my designs. When I designed each garment in this collection, I treated it as though I were designing a city. Rikke We loved the moodboard - and our sales team felt it would do well in spring/summer 2013. We began by sourcing the material. There were challenges finding the right colored denims. Denims are often very casual and we where looking for something more modern and classy. Ultimately we settled on a dark blue and white denim and silk.
Rikke Developing final flat sketches and patterns is where our pattern-makers came in: being able to look at a pattern and know how it will hang on a body is a technical skill and craft that takes years of training, so the pattern-maker contributes a lot with that part. For Daniel's collection the detail to the construction of the silk pieces are extremely important because of the layering.
The silk finisher we work with in France creates the most amazing touch to the fabric surface - nearly powder soft - so it was natural to suggest silk for the tops and dresses, and this worked well for Daniel's concept. The contrast between the sexy denim and the soft silk, gives the collection an edge.
Next came fitting samples. These we had to adjust a lot - not just the pattern, but also all the details like trim. The original trim was too heavy for the silk, and ruined the draping, we had to work with Daniel to select a much lighter, thinner trim. At the end the result is so light and beautiful.
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MUUSE NO 2
Future Style
Scouting Global Talent in London
INTERVIEW
With over 40 schools and 4 days of back-to-back shows, London Graduate Fashion Week is the world's largest emerging talent show - and a peek into the future of British Fashion. This year saw an international influx, as MUUSE teamed up with Vogue Talents to select and invite a set of schools from outside of the UK to compete in the International Catwalk Show Competition.
easier, or harder for up & coming designers? Changes in the industry mean a young designer must be able to multitask, be totally digital and grab every opportunity for mentoring, business advice, learning-on-the-job. Was there anything particularly exciting about this year's Graduate Fashion Week you'd like to mention? This year, GFW is particularly exciting because of the involvement of directional, inspiring talents such as Henry Holland, Todd Lynn, Mary Katrantzou; the support from ShowStudio, and the London College of Fashion; and the major International Catwalk Show, featuring graduates from 16 countries.
During three heady days of non-stop catwalk shows, MUUSE's Gitte Jonsdatter caught up with Fashion doyenne and Trustee of Graduate Fashion Week Hilary Alexander between shows: What made you want to be a part of Graduate Fashion Week? GFW is important. Because it is the world's largest launching pad for BA fashion graduates in the world, from all over the world. The future of fashion starts at GFW. I have been involved since the first GFW at the Business Design Centre in Islington, 22 years ago, firstly as Fashion Editor/ Director of The Daily Telegraph, and since my retirement from the DT two years ago, as a GFW Trustee. Because it is exciting and because I share the hopes and dreams of the students who desperately hope their graduate collections will look fabulous, will embody their creative vision, and will help them get a job. What do you think these young designers need most to succeed? A young designer needs determination, passion, enthusiasm, willingness to work hard, patience, thoughtfulness, creativity and 100 percent self-belief. Do you see changes happening in the industry that will make things
About Hilary Alexander Fashion Director of the Daily Telegraph, and long-time doyenne of the Fashion Community in London, Hilary Alexander is a visiting professor at University of the Arts London, and a Trustee of Graduate Fashion Week.
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Nocturnal Events AMG is Photographer Anti Wendel, Pho.Agcy.Birgitta Martin Art director Magnus Klahr Stylist Gorjan Lauseger
Dress and jacket by Jantine van Peski
Opposite page: Dress by Abigail Stewart, Top by Heidi Paula by MUUSE This page: Dress and shoes by Wali Mohammed Barrech
This page: Gloves by Jantine van Peski, Jacket by Ece Gรถzen Opposite page: Dress by Abigail Stewart, Bracelet by Wali Mohammed Barrech
This page: Dress by Caterina Ciuffoletti Opposite page: Jacket and trousers by Anne Remien, Shoes by Wali Mohammed Barrech
Hair Lasse Pedersen & Sabrina Szinay, Agentur CPH Make up Gitte Guldhammer, Agentur CPH Photographer assist Mark Bertelsen Model Trine Hyldtoft, Scoop Models
Opposite page: Dress by Lulu Liu, shoes by Wali Mohammed Barrech
Thanks to: Scoop Models Agentur Cph Fritz Hansen Showroom Phase One The Lab
MUUSE is an international fashion label that produces collections with some of the best design talents around the world, to bring visionary fashion to your wardrobe. Based in Copenhagen, we collaborate each season with respected scouts and tastemakers in fashion capitals from Tokyo to London, to select a small number of international talents. We believe the future of fashion is designer pieces in small editions, made to last. Muuse Editions are available at selected retailers and on www.muuse.com
Enquiries sales@muuse.com press@muuse.com
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