Myanmore Magazine - No.34/August 2019 by MYANMORE

No. 34 /August 2019 It’s free!

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HISTORY OF A ROCKSTAR R ZARNI Q&A WITH NATALIE JOHNSTON RANGOON RHYTHM: KULTÜRESHOCK TAKING THE SLOW ROAD FROM MANDALAY TO BAGAN MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

No. 33 /July 2019

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson

Editor

Min Ye Kyaw

Editorial Assistant Min Pyae Sone

Cover Photo

Zwe Wint Htet

Photography Djavanshir. N Khiri Travel

Contributors Kyi Sin Susan Bailey Tom Sanders

Illustration

Ben Hopkins

14 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 8 Cinema 10

Interns

T Nang Seng Myat Yuwati Nyi

Art & Production Aye Myo Htay Phyo Thu Kyaw

Publisher

MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

The Teashop 12 Cover Story

R Zarni: History of a rockstar 14

Printer

Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No. 00296/00371

Feature

CafĂŠ Maymyo: From seed to cup with love 18

Sales & Advertising

sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Travel E-visa 20

Taking the slow road from Mandalay to Bagan 22

Q&A

Natalie Johnston 25

About Myanmore

Eat & Drink Nga Pichat 26 New openings 27

Disclaimer Sports 34 Tech Talk 35

Arts 32 Rangoon Rhythm 33

Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

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MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

What's on An Evening of German Classics 15th August

Trekking to cave & waterfall in Anesakhan 16th to 18th August

An Evening of German Classics showcases the Festival Artists of the Music Society of Myanmar’s Festival and Competition 2019 and the rich tradition of classical music originating from Germany, featuring the music of Bach, Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms and Schumann. Admission is free, with a suggested donation of 10,000 MMK . Goethe-Institut Myanmar - Corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road and Nat Mauk Street, Bahan Township, Yangon | 7:30 pm - 9 pm

AI: Race or Craze 15th August

LinkedIn Local goes to Mandalay to support LEARN and Manchester Metropolitan University (MMU) for an evening of conversation, sharing and networking. Limited places available on a first-come-first served basis. To secure your place, email to hello@ mylearnglobal.com or alvin@thenucreatives. com. Fee: 10,000MMK covers three-course lunch and refreshments . Mandalay Hilton - No. 1, Junction of 26th and 66th Street, Chan Aye Tharzan Township, Mandalay | 11 am - 1:30 pm

Myanmar FoodBev & Myanmar Retail Sourcing Expo 2019 15th to 17th August

The 6th edition of Myanmar FoodBev and the 4th edition of Myanmar Retail Sourcing Expo still keep the positioning as a platform to showcase the latest of food & beverage products as well as retail business technology, solution, equipment and also sourcing opportunity of retail products. The exhibition aims to connect international suppliers to Myanmar supermarkets, hypermarkets, retailers, importers, distributors, hoteliers, restaurants and cafes operators. In this edition, more than 60 companies and brands from Myanmar and international including Hong Kong, Korea, Malaysia, Thailand and Saudi Arabia have taken part to deliver their food & beverage and retail products to serve fast growing market in Myanmar.

Explore some caves and waterfalls in highland at Anisakhan near Pyin Oo Lwin. It will be a great adventure to trek around villages and experience natural cave & waterfall on a perfect weekend. Full package price is 150,000 Kyats per person. For more information please contact 09 798 000989.

Entrepreneurs’ Guide Presentation & Networking cocktail 22nd August

To celebrate the launch of the first edition of their Entrepreneurs’ Guide to Myanmar, Dr. Aung Thura, President of MYEA and Mr. Nicolas Delange, Chair of CCIFM’s Young Entrepreneurs Committee will present you the outlines. This event is a great opportunity to meet and network with successful entrepreneurs in Myanmar and ask all your questions during an informal networking session. No entrance fees, food & drinks at your own charge. The Penthouse - No.271-273, Bargayar Road, Park side one building, 8th floor, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 8 pm

Anesakhan - On Mandalay-Lashio Road, Near Pyin Oo Lwin, Mandalay

Teacher 2 Teacher Fall 2019

MSMFC 2019 Gala Concert: Colors of Myanmar

Join educators from around the city to this annual social event. Teacher 2 Teacher aims to connect international teachers to one another in a relaxed and social atmosphere. RedDot Brewhouse is pleased to host this event and has offered an exclusive deal for Teacher 2 Teacher.

17th August

The Music Society of Myanmar’s Festival and Competition 2019 Gala Concert is a culmination of an exciting 9 days of musical activities. This promises to be a sterling venue to house a concert that will not just be excellent music, but a celebration of collaborations of international classical artists with Myanmar traditional music from various ethnicities. The repertoire spans time and genres, from classical to jazz, Western and Chinese instruments, all beautifully aligning with music of Myanmar. Come and celebrate the diversity of Myanmar’s music with the combined talents of more than 20 artistes from half a dozen countries, and the best of Myanmar’s musical talents. Admission is free, with a suggested donation of 10,000 MMK.

30th August

Reddot Brewhouse - No.61, Sayar San Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 8 pm

Myanmar International Travel Mart 2019 31st August

The 6th Myanmar International Travel Mart in Yangon. For more information please contact 09 513 56 57, 09 200 56 48. Sedona Hotel - No.1, 1 Industrial Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | 9 am - 6 pm

Rosewood Hotel - No.14, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 5 pm - 7 pm

5th MCE-023 Cosplay Festival 18th August

For the people who love animes, mangas and cosplays, Myanmar Cosplay Event organizes the 5th MCE-023 event on the 18th of August. Not only cosplayers but also audience can participate in the contest. Pre ticket price 5,000 kyats and you can buy it at Kira Kira, Character Accessories and Stuff. Excel Treasure Hotel - No.520, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Shwe Gone Dine, Bahan Township, Yangon | 10 am - 5 pm

Tatmadaw Hall - U Wisara Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 9:30 am - 5 pm

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Promotions Unlimited Thursdays at Prime Rib

Friday Promotion at Ember

Every Thursday we have SMOKED BEEF BABY BACK RIBS PROMOTION at Prime Rib. UNLIMITED RIBS & FREE FLOW BEER Ks19800. Reservations are highly recommended. CALL Now to reserve, or take a chance. For reservations call 09264655551.

1 for 1 Myanmar Premium Beers from 6pm to 9pm. Time to celebrate the end of the week with some drinks. Ember will be holding a Friday Promotion of 1 for 1 Myanmar Premium Beers all night long. What better way to pre-drink before a crazy night out.

Prime Rib - Urban Asia Center, Corner of Maha Bandoola Road and 48th Street, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 9 pm

Ember Restaurant - Corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road and Kan Bae Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 9 pm

Sushi Tei Myanmar - No. 126, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 10 am - 10 pm

Friday Ladies night

Pasta promotion at Babett

At Knob N‘ Knockers Bar & Grill the only place you can dine and enjoy cocktails. Dance away, sing karaoke (open concept) and smoke shisha. Enjoy Free cocktails 6.00PM-9.00 PM every Friday for the Month of August. Try our own special Cocktail “Don’t Call Me Baby” served with a special glass.

Celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival at Sedona Hotel Yangon

Salmon Festival at Sushi Tei Myanmar Serving the freshest Salmon Sashimi in Town! Air Flown every week from Norway. You will not disappoint once you get the taste of freshness of the sea! Sushi Tei Myanmar is having a 20% Discount on all Salmon Items for the month of August. For reservation please contact No: 09 44411 5662, 01 526 526.

From August to September, Babett Eatery & Bar will gratify your pasta cravings with mind-blowing recipes, starring one of the world’s top favorite starchy foods. Catering to an array of palates, Babett Yangon will serve pasta in nine styles starting at 12,000 MMK. Babett - No.5, Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 7 am - 12 am

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Knob N’ Konckers Bar & Grill - Pearl Condo, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yagon | 6 pm - 9 pm

The tradition of sharing begins at Sedona. Gift your family and friends with our flavourful and luxurious mooncakes. Avail of our early bird discount of 15% on any order of mooncake box and a 20% discount for 100 boxes or more until 1 September 2019. A variety of flavors and packages are available. Available until 13 September 2019. Sedona Hotel - Corner of Set Mhu 1 Road and Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | All Day

Cinema

Ready or Not .

Now Showing The Divine Fury Action, Adventure

A champion-fighter Park Yonghu abandoned his Christian faith after his father’s death in an accident. Everything is wish-fulfilled until unpredictable wounds appear along with pain leading him to meet with a local priest Father Ahn to help him find a solution. Yong-hu unfortunately, finds himself in the middle of the battle against the evil forces seeking to destroy the human world. Cast: Park Seo Joon, Ahn Sung Ki, Woo Do Hwan,

Coming Line Walker 2: Invisible Spy Biography, Drama, Sport

Out of the overpopulated downtown in Hong Kong, the steps of the ‘INVISIBLE’ spy just began. ‘Hands-on’ the mysterious case

after Yiu’s taken captive for being involved as a hacker, the other two police officers are suspected by Cheng of the Security Wing. Cheng and the Inspector Ching together, began investigating for suspicious clues, while Yip the Superintendent is attentively watched by the Commisioner who doubts his actions. The whole setting remains puzzled then,who is the invisible Spy? Cast: Louis Koo, Nick Cheung, Francis Ng

Brian Banks

Biography, Drama, Sport

An All-American High School Football star called Brian Banks was wrongly accused for a crime he did not admit and is sentenced for a decade in the prison in which he is challenged by the wretched prisoners. Lacking evidence, he spent a decade of lifesacrificed unjustly for the broken justice system. Fortune dived in after being released and with

the support of Justin Brooks and the California Innocence Project, together Banks fights to reclaim his life and continue attaining his goals of playing in the NFL. Cast: Aldis Hodge, Greg Kinnear, Sherri Shepherd & more.

Dora and the Lost City of Gold Adventure, Family

Dora being raised up in the jungle with her parents exploring the jungle due to their tasks and projects then all of a sudden, the adventure begins when she started highschool in the big city where she met with this ragtag team, including Boots- who later become her friends solved the mystery of the lost civilization as Dora and the team helped her out saving her parents.

The Angry Birds movie 2

Animation, Adventure, Comedy

Here in the Angry Birds movie 2, the Red, Chuck, Bomb together with the Green Pig’s crew joined to battle against these invaderseagles whose camp is located in the land covered in snow. These invaders are planning to destroy fowls’ lives with their newly-invented explosive dynamite. Throughout the adventure, the two herds plan to destroy the eagles’ wicked strategies. The journey and the mission has bound the birds and pigs to unite. Cast: Awkwafina, Dove Cameron, Bill Hader & more.

Cast: Isabela Moner, Q’orianka Kilcher, Benicio Del Toro & more.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Ready or Not

Horror, Mystery, Thriller

A young beautiful woman called Samara Weaving, when she joins the peculiar family of his new husband, just lost her happiness based on the time-honored tradition practised by the family. Nights become longer as her hope happening to be a dying gasp but did it turn out that way? Cast: Samara Weaving, Andie MacDowell, Mark O’Brien & more.

Angel Has Fallen

Animation, Adventure, Comedy

Stuck under custody, Mike Banning the Secret Service Agent responsible for the assasination case of the death of U.S. President Allan Trumbull. Banning then successfully escaped from the captors with his aim to find the real threat to the president. To uncover the truth, Banning work on to evade the FBI and his agency by initially clearing his name and saving the country from the forthcoming danger.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Cast: Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Piper Perabo & more

Kyee Myat Thaw Myanmar Historical, Traditional

Dating back to Pagan Dynasty during the 9th century, generations throughout the years had begun to unite as one big country. The movie is about the Royal Family and their beliefs of offering Golden Sacrifices for Buddha with all parts of the movie focused setting being on Pagan, Shwe Dagon, Mahar Myat Mot Ni, Kyite Htee Yoe and Inlay Phaun Daw Oo. Kyee Myat Thaw Myanmar also features Myanmar Traditionally Inherited artistic skills of the locals. Followed by second section about the revolution of Buddhism by the two great Kings: King Anawrahta and Kyan Sitthar. Coming to cinema in 3D format and starring famous actors of Myanmar. Cast: Naing Nine, Ye Aung, Htike San Mose, Wah So Moe Oo and more.

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins

Speedy Energy Demand: BOOSTING electricity rates Never before has triggered us until the official announcement by the Ministry of Electricity and Energy together with the government about almost-doubled increase in charges for ELECTRICITY consumption just ALARMED the whole nation. Having been claimed exact and average figures, charges will be rising up to 6,050 kyats every 100 units for households from the past rate which was 3,500 kyats for 100 units. Automatically, individuals are fully aware of saving energy, so better start using energy EFFICIENTLY. More units equals MORE CHARGES.

Within 5 years, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re up for 5G Warp speed of pre 5G will be landing soon! ZTE and its head operator Mr. Yan has publicly confirmed about developing 5G networks in Myanmar in collaboration with Oredoo and waiting for the right time and successful factors as support for this very aim. Further discussions with the local network operators are in favor. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more? HD videos, VR/ AR playing within milliseconds, the 5G network will win championship over Wifi Booster. Hopefully, the costs of 1GB convert to most friendly prices. Interesting news for IT trackers, ZTE now has a massive plan in place of Cultivating Local Talent in Myanmartargeting new candidates who have high potential and quality for the expected value of technology development at ZTE.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Bagan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site Bagan, our beautiful ancient city began its civilization in the late 9th century and now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Reputation has grown since the date of the inscription 6th July, 2019 which is the greatest privilege to have as the citizens of Myanmar. Positively affected, yet the situation has somehow shocked the local vendors and tourism-targeted hotels quoting, “The title and honor achievement is not expected to offer negative impacts to us.” As a response, Minister of Religion and Tradition department said, “Bagan- being ‘World Heritage Sit e’ and under the title, we are responsible to carry out rules that are standardized internationally for sustainable tourism and business within Bagan zone and areas close to Bagan.”

Plastic Waste Polluting Ayeyarwaddy or does the myth comes to reality? Ayeyarwaddy River is quite popular as Myanmar’s strength or ‘elephant river’ has ever been flowing through Myanmar from the north to the south bank. Once in every 40 years, this Ayeyarwaddy River is estimated to be flooding and this would cause the surrounding areas to risk. To be fully aware, “We are directly related to the conditions.” Stated with facts, about 90 tonnes of plastic waste a day has polluted the southern end of Ayeyarwaddy River, 1 foot rising at Bhamo and 1 ½ feet to be rising at Shwegu within these two days. Department of Environmental Conservation Director General U Hla Maung Thein concluded that we are all responsible to take action in maintaining disposal system and reducing plastic waste.

Growing Thilawa Business District If there can likely be positive result from progressively improvement livelihood of 9000 employees working at the site, Thilawa authorities have discussed in advance to layout a Shopping Center for the district. This plan is set with the purpose of providing only facilities and renting office rooms and showrooms through inviting both local and international business companies to expand their business. ThiLaWa is expecting better outcomes with profits for all the stockholders and employees to benefit from the business. .

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Cover Story

Words by Tom Sanders. Photos by Zwe Wint Htet.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

R ZARNI: HISTORY OF A ROCKSTAR Wearing a black t shirt encrusted with a colorful sequined tiger, arms covered in sleeve tattoos, and hands bedecked with gold rings and silver bracelets, R Zarni is quiet and demure - a rockstar in the Myanmar tradition. Growing up in Yangon’s Tamwe township, he has had a long journey to the heights of fame and success. Even today, he is one of Myanmar’s most recognizable faces, a symbol of rock and roll in a time when the country was first opened to western culture, and a beloved singers across every age and class. Despite speaking little English, the rockstar is the very picture of friendliness. Softly spoken, he is happy to pose for photos both with us and with the slightly starstruck bar staff at the hotel in which we meet him. R Zarni is accompanied and assisted by his wife Onee, an ex-model who runs the The Lace fabric shop, and she often answers questions, prompts him with details and steers the conversation. One gets the sense that their partnership runs deep. R Zarni didn’t always want to be a singer. It started as little more than a hobby, until a series of victories in local competitions made him realize that this could be a viable way of life. At that time, he was signing Bon Jovi, Metallica and Guns N Roses - American bands that were surging in popularity - as the excesses of eighties music excess thrilled Burmese audiences with hints of a world outside of the then isolated Myanmar. So unsure was R Zarni about his future that at one point he almost became a sailor. He had the papers in order, his registration number and was ready to go, but at the last moment hesitated before stepping onto the boat - a loss for the Burmese tradition of seamanship, but a boon for his many fans.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

R Zarni’s extensive catalogue includes both covers of English and Chinese songs, alongside a smorgasbord of original material. For the singer, it is his original music that defines him. He has written an incredible number (thousands), finding inspiration through his songwriter friends and extended jam sessions with his band. R Zarni claims that a single jam session can generate two or even three songs, which might go some way to explaining his prolific output and range of styles and materials. Perhaps the headiest heights for R Zarni were around 2011, and when I ask him about his greatest and most memorable shows, it is this period he refers to. When he played a one man show in Myanmar’s Thuwunna Stadium in Yangon, the crowd was packed with fans ranging from kids to middle aged women, and there was no bigger star in Myanmar than this homegrown rockstar. Most of his live performances are highly polished and expertly delivered affairs, his virtuoso voice always on key. Even today, the singer smiles as he tells me that he can still hit the high notes, an impressive feat for a man with his age and vocal range.

As he looks to the future, R Zarni sees room for more shows, more music and evolution as an artist. He believes that his prolific nature is key to his success, opening that anyone can find something in his catalogue to connect to especially on the oldest and most universal topic - romantic love. Whether you are heart-swollen with new love, cut up over a recent breakup, or resigned to a “forever alone” life of cigarettes, instant noodles and warm Bawdar beer, there’s something in his lyrics for you. A family man, the singer has two sons, and is keen to emphasize his hopes for them. If they wish to become singers, he says, he will support them with all

the resources he has available. There’s a note in his voice that suggests that he hopes that they will choose a similar path to his own, although when he is asked what advice he would offer the younger generation of aspiring Myanmar musicians, his reply is a little more conservative. “Young people should know, don’t be too rash. You’re supposed to learn when you’re supposed to learn. Don’t be foolish and give up on your studies. This isn’t like other countries. This is Myanmar. Have something to fall back on.” It’s a surprisingly wise take from a man who is no longer as young as he once was, and a worldly attitude from a rockstar with a reputation for partying.

R Zarni has certainly mellowed out since his young, rockstar days. Asked what he thinks of the current state of rock and roll in Myanmar, he grows pensive. “Most people have a lot on their minds right now. The old generation and young generation, both are struggling in many ways. It can be hard to reach out to more people. In that sense it’s harder than older times. People are struggling with other issues.” Asked what he is most proud of in his long career, R Zarni points to his loyal fan base, who run the gamut from younger rockers to middle-aged women, where his boyish good looks and singing skills have found an adoring audience.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Cover Story

R Zarni can be a little cagey about some topics. When asked about his biggest fear, he replies with a demure “nothing”, and when asked which band he would most like to play a show with, his answer is a diplomatic “any band.” Die hard fans of the singer will know that he has dealt with both ups and downs in his life, and an instinctive sense of privacy may be the reason for these careful answers. R Zarni has also been active outside of his music. Most recently, he hosted Enslaved, an MTV EXIT special focusing on human trafficking, which continues to plague Myanmar and the S.E. Asian diaspora. By connecting real life stories to his audience, and discussing how young and vulnerable people can help protect themselves and their families from trafficking, the singer is clearly looking to give back to the people who have made him a star. I ask R Zarni where in his catalogue new fans should start to get into his music, and he wife answers with a quick smile. Easy, with Kabar Thar (Son of the Earth), his newest album. It’s been a long and winding road for a man who once planned to live out his days as a seaman, but R Zarni’s path has not yet come to an end. Kabar Thar is available now online and in stores across Myanmar.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Feature

Cafe Maymyo - a cozy place for a good cuppa.

CAFÉ MAYMYO: FROM SEED TO CUP WITH LOVE Words & photos by Susan Bailey ‘I love coffee and I love my hometown’ says Ye Naing, the founder of Cafe Maymyo. His face lights up when discussing anything related to coffee or to Pyin Oo Lwin and his cafe is a true labor of love.

dominated by big names like Sitthar and Genius. But Ye Naing has a different perspective. His goal is not to be the biggest, not to be the most famous yet to share his two passions with local residents and foreign visitors.

It would seem the young entrepreneur faces an uphill battle, as his small-scale business tries to carve a niche in the coffee market

Has spent some year in Mandalay and Yangon for education and work, Ye Naing returned to his native Pyin Oo Lwin in 2016

to his aging mother. As he was happy to be back home but, saddened with the changes he saw in town. The climate was warmer, the leafy trees that once filled the streets had been cut down and many of the beautiful colonial buildings had been replaced with large, concrete monstrosities. Too many people were on their phones or inside their houses and too few people were gathering at

tea shops to chat with friends. Ye Naing began dreaming of his own cafe where students, families and groups of friends could come to relax and talk. And, as a coffee lover, he wanted to use this cafe to introduce the local residents to the true taste of high-quality, locally grown coffee. Rather than buying it from one of the larger producers in town, Ye Naing wanted to grow his own.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

“I WANT TO CONTROL THE QUALITY SO THAT I AM CERTAIN MY CUSTOMERS ARE BEING SERVED THE BEST COFFEE”, HE EXPLAINED. Luckily, Ye Naing’s uncle had a farm on the road leading to Mogok. It was only 12-acres, the perfect size for starting a small coffee plantation, and he managed to convince his uncle to switch crops. While the plants were maturing, Ye Naing worked on setting up the production facility in nearby Anisakhan and hiring a team to handle each step of the process. Within 2 years, Ye Naing was brewing his first cup of self-grown coffee and named it ‘Cafe Maymyo’ in honor of its origin. With the coffee production up and running, Ye Naing turned his efforts to open the cafe he had envisioned years earlier. In August 2018 he found a two-story building located near the center of town, did a bit of redecorating and launched Cafe Maymyo’s first actual cafe. The space, which seats around 20 guests, is inviting with warm lighting, comfortable seating and soft instrumental music playing in the background. A couple of baristas work behind the bar, serving up a full range of espresso-based drinks and fresh juices and a small food menu of sweet and savory items is on offer.

While the delicious farm-to-cup coffee is certainly the highlight of any visit to Cafe Maymyo, the friendly service and atmosphere are also worth noting. The pride that the owner shows in his brand has spread to the staff, who take their brewing seriously. Case in point – on a recent visit, the rain kept away the customers but the baristas were constantly at work practicing latte art and discussing best techniques. When looking back on what he has accomplished, Ye Naing takes very little credit. ‘My uncle’s support has been so important to the growth of Cafe Maymyo. He let me take over his farming land and he gave me encouragement to follow this dream’, Ye Naing remarks. He is also quick to praise his team of employees and his family and friends who have backed his dreams from the start. Looking ahead, ‘I have a vision to not only promote local, high-quality coffee but to also impact my hometown. I want the residents to value and be proud of the products from Pyin Oo Lwin. And I want to encourage other SMEs (Small and Medium Enterpris-

Ye Naing pouring the perfect cup. es) in the community,’ Ye Naing articulates. To accomplish this, he is trying to market his Pyin Oo Lwin-grown coffee beyond the city limitsand, thus far, he has agreements with cafes and hotels in Mandalay, Yangon and Taunggyi to sell his beans. Ye Naing also has plans to arrange special event nights at Cafe Maymyo for young entrepreneurs so that they can share ideas and learn from other community business leaders.

Hopefully Ye Naing’s spirit of entrepreneurship catches on. Cafe Maymyo may not have a huge marketing budget or global brand recognition of Starbucks but what it does have in endless quantities is passion. And perhaps passion is the secret ingredient that makes Cafe Maymyo’s coffee taste so damn good! Address: Block 7, Near YMBA Hall, Pyin Oo Lwin Tel: 09 777 663152 Hours: 9 am – 9 pm

Hand sorting coffee beans by quality.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Travel

Photo: Yangon International Airport official web

VISA TO MYANMAR IS BECOMING EVEN EASIER

pplying for visa is often a nightmare with queues in embassies and rude officials. Myanmar stands out. Since 2012, a number of positive changes have been implemented and as people often say, “this is the most friendly immigration I have ever met!” The basic rule is that any foreign national who wishes to enter Myanmar must obtain a visa unless they are a citizen of one of the eligible visa exempt countries. The government has worked hard on Improvements to make both entry and exit convenient. A large number of countries have for several years been allowed to apply for Business Visa On Arrival by just presenting an invitation letter from a local company together with the business license. Making it very smooth for business people to fly in with short notice. To boost tourism, all ASEAN (except Malaysia) including Japan, South Korea, Macao, Hong Kong no longer require visa (visa exception). Tourist from India and China are eligible for Tourist visa-on-arrival and starting from 01 October 2019, it will also applies to tourists from Italy, Spain, Australia, Switzerland, Germany and Russia!

E-visa for a smoother application If you are not eligible for a visa exemption, then applying online for an e-visa is by far the most convenient. Over the years many e-visa services have appeared, most either fake or much more expensive. There is only one official you should use, the E-Visa web portal by the Ministry of Labour, Immigration, and Population -- www.evisa.moip.gov.mm. Applying online is easy and convenient. In a few days you get the approved visa over email and you just need to print it out and show to the immigration officer. That’s it! Online you can apply for three options; Tourist US$ 50, Tourist Express (24 hour processing time) US$ 56, and Business US$ 70. For business e-visa you need a slight different invitation letter template compared to visa-onarrival but templates are available for download. The application process for an e-visa beats standing in the queue on arrival and much better than spending time visiting an embassy before departure! The length of stay varies with different Visas as normally. Tourist Visa grant you a stay ofby 28 days the Business Visa offers 70 days. Do note that if Words Tomwhile Sanders. Photos by Zwe Wint Htet. you engage in any violations of Myanmar Law, your Visa will be terminated and you will be sent back home. Find more information on the process and eligibility on www.evisa.moip. gov.mm.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Travel

TAKING THE SLOW ROAD FROM MANDALAY TO BAGAN A glance at Ayeyarwaddy river.

ike the Nile in Egypt, the Irrawaddy River is an important gift to the people of Myanmar that gave rise to the ancient royal capital of Mandalay and Bagan. However, traveling to this region in the country’s central dry zone is not just about the ancient cities, but also discovering village life and learning about the people of these communities that have followed the same traditions for centuries. Many visitors to the region choose to fly, or take a luxury cruise between the two royal capitals, but we decided to travel overland, by a motor car which gives us the opportunity to truly explore the internal attractions. During the journey we not only get to visit ancient temples and cruise down the Irrawaddy, but we did also learn about an endemic tortoise species, fascinat-

ing local people, and a forgotten pottery town that was once the gateway for the British annexation of Burma. Visiting Minzontaung Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the star tortoise which is indigenous to the dry zone, was now a major site to the visitors to learn more about this endangered tortoise species. At the entrance of the Sanctuary, we saw a breeding center where we helped feed the lovely tortoises and saw how they are kept, before their reintroduction into the wild. To complete the tour and to understand how the whole system works, the friendly staff from the sanctuary took us to the baby tortoise pens for a glimpse of these tiny creatures. After the Sanctuary we continued our journey through rural Myanmar to Yandabo village, which

makes a living from producing beautiful red earthenware pots. A remote village with only 200 houses, Yandabo also has an intriguing history. In 1826, under a tree on the banks of the Irrawaddy, the Treaty of Yandabo was signed, which ended the First Anglo-Burmese War. With the British in Yandabo – which was only 80 km from the capital Ava (Inwa) – the Burmese were forced to accept the British terms, leading to a long period of colonial rule. The best part of our stay at Yandabo was the Yandabo Home, a small boutique hotel that lies on the quiet banks of the Irrawaddy. From there, we easily walked around the villagers’ houses and watched them patiently making the pots and firing them in their kilns. In the late afternoon, we took a 15-minute boat ride to

visit Pan Nyo village and observe flocks after flocks of buffaloes returning from the fields descending into the Ayeyarwaddy River for a nice cool bath. Then, walked into the Panyo village along the banks of the Irrawaddy River and enjoyed the stunning sunset from a hill overlooking the mighty River. The next morning, we continued to Pakkoku and visited the local market, a slipper factory, and explored where the famed Pakkoku blankets are made. A private boat will then be waiting at the jetty in Pakkoku for a leisurely trip down the Irrawaddy, with lunch served on board. Along the way, we visited a Kyaukgu Umin temple, a place that rarely sees foreign visitors. After the temple visit, we continued the cruise to Bagan, where the famous plain of ancient temples and stupas awaits us.

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Top Things to do in Bagan: Bagan, Myanmar – a home to over 2,200 temples is now more than a major tourist attraction and an oldest archaeological zone since it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site by the UN at the Azerbaijani capital Baku last month. Here is the list of top things to do in and around Bagan by Myanmore; Yandabo home outdoor.

On the war from Inle Lake.

Minzontaung tortoise.

don’t forget your camera!

4. Swe daw lay su (Four Tooth Relics) – Finish in one day to make your wishes come true

There is nothing like watching the sunset over the pagodas in Bagan, but it can be tricky to find a nice elevated spot for doing it. Due to the severe earthquake a few months ago, the only two places you can now watch the sunset and sunrise are Shwe Gon Char pagoda and Nan Myint Tower (Bagan Viewing Tower) next to Aureum Palace Hotels & Resorts.

Take the opportunity to discover one of Bagan’s famous legends as you pass the tracks of King Anawrahta and his precious white elephant. The tale has it that the King was given a replica of Lord Buddha’s tooth, which he placed on the back of a sacred elephant before he set him free. This elephant stopped at four places around Bagan on which later the King had stupas built. The four places are Shwezigon, Tant Kyi Taung, Tu Yin Taung and Lawka Nandar. It is believed by the local Burmese that visiting and paying homage at all four of these places in one day makes your wish come true.

2. Learn how lacquerware is made

5. Climb the 777 stairs of Mt Popa (Taung Kalat)

There are many lacquerware “fac tories” and shops in Bagan with varying quality and price levels. One of our favourites is Maung Aung Myin Art Gallery Bagan, go and see the whole process and learn about a craft that has been passed on in generations. Other great places to visit are Golden Bagan, Bagan House, and Jasmine Family Lacquerware workshops.

A well visited place by locals and tourists. The Buddhist monastery is situated on top of a rock pedestal (Taung Kalat) and the foot of Mount Popa and gives you a great view over the area. Don’t have open pockets with food or loose things as the monkeys tend to try and grab things, luckily there are salespersons and stair cleaners with slingshots fencing them off. Cleaners will ask for a tip for keeping the stairs clear of monkey poop and other trash, but are also frequently seen throwing trash off the fence, but at least the stairs are clean.Please write to us about your experiences in and around Bagan via info@myanmore.com, and we’ll make sure to add the good stuff!

1. Watch the Sunset

3. Rent an E-bike and be your own guide Go to the nearest (or cheapest) E-bike rental place. The price for one bike for a full day was 8,000 MMK for us. Drive around on small sand roads and explore the less visited pagodas in between your stops at the most famous ones like Ananda Temple, Dhammayangyi Temple, Gawdawpalin Temple, Shwesandaw Pagoda, Shwezigon Pagoda and Thatbyinnyu Pagoda. Don’t forget to ask for a helmet and check so the head and tail lights are working before taking off with your E-bike. And most importantly,

Kyi Sin is the Sales & Communications of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has shared his experience travelling within Myanmar in a monthly column. Khiri Travel 01 375 577 kyisin@khiri.com khiri.com

Yandabo & Panyo villages. MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Expat Corner

Q&A:

NATHALIE JOHNSTON 24

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Nathalie Johnston, is a Yangon resident, art curator, and Director & Founder of Myanm/art—a pioneering art gallery representing the ‘newer breed’ of contemporary artists. In this interview, Nathalie elaborates on her perspective and experience working in and among the Myanmar art scene.rainy season. Photo by Zwe Wint Htet.

Before Myanm/art what other projects are you involved in?

What did you envision for Myanm/art?

I first came to Yangon in ‘97 with my family. That’s what first sparked my interest in the country and its politics. I had, since the age of 12, an interest in researching and understanding the news about Myanmar. I came back in 2009 as I was doing a thesis in Performance Art and I met Moe Satt and the people behind Beyond Pressure, a performance art festival.

Could we crowdfund and create a space that was free from ‘scrutiny.’ A gallery space that was free-of-charge for artists, so they didn’t have to pay per day to use it. Somewhere they could create and experiment with little pressure to sell; somewhere with a resource center so we could hold educational workshops. Lastly, somewhere that supported the community that I knew. When you look at some artists, you’d have to go to their houses and look at their laptops to see what they’ve made. Mostly because there are no galleries in Yangon that will showcase their work. They owners would think the artists’ works aren’t conservative enough, or traditional enough to sell to tourists. I felt Yangon needed a space where these artists could be themselves and try new things. Now we have this new place and we’ve made a lot of investment. I think the artists are also ready for something a bit more serious and to be taken seriously—and also to be a network point for international curators and researchers.

Later on, I met with people from New Zero Art Space and others. I started a blog called Myanm/art, my first project where I wrote about exhibitions and the people that I met. I partnered with Mrat Lunn Htwann —a performance artist—to support others. We founded 7000Padauk, a threemonth project at an old small house on Strand Road in Kyee Myin Daing. Around the same time, I started MARCA (Myanmar Art Resource Center and Archive) which was supposed to be a digital library but ended up being a physical one instead. With that established, we started the Mobile Library with Khin Zaw Latt from KZL gallery and independent artist Zoncy. Then Ivan Pun, one of the sons of FMI Chairman Serge Pun, was going to open a gallery, TS1, on the riverfront in 2013 so he invited me to be this fancy gallery director at an old warehouse in Latha Township. But sadly after one year, we were closed down and I was an independent curator for a while. People then started telling I should have my own space, so I opened Myanm/ art in April 2016. Here we are, three and a half years later—in a different location.

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Describe your passion to art in and out of Myanmar. It started when I was very young. I’m very lucky to have parents who let me become whatever I wanted to be—with the exception of getting good grades, of course. Their rules were: “As long as you get a college degree, we don’t care what it’s in.” I majored in Studio Arts, I was an artist myself and an art educator for many years. To always promote art, something I’ve noticed worldwide is that there’s this serious neglect for the power and potential

to change society. I was hard on myself when it came to my own art. I was better at writing about other people’s art. I was more interested in that, it was a way I could sort of spread the love. That, together with my appreciation for this country, just came together really well. I made great friends, this is what fueled my passion. I could live here, and I could still be involved in the art scene. It’s been almost a decade since I came here, I still feel the same about what I do. Other than art, what hobbies do you have? Almost all of my hobbies involve something to do with art. I guess I like reading, karaoke, meeting new people, museums, archiving, photography—I have an old darkroom photography habit that I haven’t employed in years. Describe the Myanmar Art Scene. In my mind, the Myanmar Art Scene has so many layers, facets, and directions. I only cover one portion of that. Generally speaking, it’s much larger than what most people think. It’s a lot; the number of artists, the number of galleries and studios. It’s also incredibly varied—kind of like parallel railroad tracks: you have a very strong conservative painting tradition on one track and then you have what we call “the contemporary” today. These two ‘tracks’ tend to run alongside one another, sometimes they interact but there’s very little ‘crossover’. Institutions, until recently, solely supported the painters and the traditional artists. Myanmar has a great multi-national group of artists who come from all over—especially from Yangon but not everyone is from Yangon.

I’m particularly excited about the younger generation, who have grown up in a much more different time than the previous one. Who is your favorite artist? The first one I can think of is Hannah Höch, a German collage artist who used photo collage. I love her work and how it intimate yet challenging it is, politically; how she used photography—a semi-new medium at the time. For me, she kind of changed the game and she was able to bring the two mediums together; visual art and photography. My taste in art isn’t necessarily being attracted to beautiful things, I like a little bit of violence in my art. For me, art must reflect real life. There are so few artists that tell about the pain that life brings. What do you enjoy most about working at Myanm/art? I feel grounded here, I have a sense of control. I always get to meet and interact with new, creative people who want to learn more about Myanmar art. Working with artists is my favorite thing to do, in general. In terms of this space, it still feels useful and as soon as it stops being useful for the Yangon art scene, I will close it. Plans for the future? Myanmar is an uncertain place so I never plan too far in advance. Myanm/art Address: G-42 Urban Asia Centre, 48th Street (Middle block), Botataung Township, Yangon Tel: 09 42106 6342

Eat & Drink

NGA PICHAT: SOMETHING’S FISHY— IN A GOOD WAY!

ays after its opening, we went to Nga Pichat—where they cook with nga pi (fish paste) galore. The English has Black Pudding, the French has Escargot, the Scottish has Haggis, and we have Nga Pi. Nga Pi or Burmese fish paste can be pretty much found in your local market. Its meaning is “Crushed Fish” and that is what they do with the fish or prawn. The paste is preserved in a form of a patte and fermented for a few months; like every other great cooking ingredient, the more it ages, the better it tastes. The fish paste is either diluted and then boiled to get a runnier texture or it can be cooked with meat or in a soup—just like the food we’re going to taste today! The location was a real gem, just a quick dash from the Mawtin bus gate; or if you’re traveling by car, the shop can be seen just before you enter 8th street off of Strand Road. You could tell the place was new, as suggested by the pre-occupied waiting area in the front. However, we were lucky since we got a place for two at the heart of the restaurant. Their menu, even thought it was really hard to read, was really cool idea. It came in the form of a scroll—I get the feeling they’re going a little overboard. Nevertheless, with our eyes squinted, we ordered our dishes: the Century Egg Salad, the Chicken with Nga Pichat, and the Carp Mote Ti—of course, with a fresh heap of chilli fish paste. Having been to a lot of Burmese eateries over the years, I must say that the best thing about most places is they provide the rice buffet. What’s worse than having all those curries to eat but not enough rice? If when you order some more; you end up chipping

Chicken with Nga Pichat (4,500 Kyats) .

away from your dinner budget. Props to Nga Pichat for this kind gesture. First to come were our side dishes (which are free)—some pickled vegetables and a potato curry which was amazing, plus a tray with crunchy veggies and some fish paste dipping sauce calls Nga Pi Yay. Service is expected to be fast at most places in Yangon, however with plates dropping and elbows flying at this restaurant, it was a really opportunity to get a neck workout. Our main dishes, the Chicken with Nga Pichat (4,500 Kyats) and the Century Egg Salad 1500

Kyats, made their debut on the table—and later in our stomachs. Although, they were served in miniature sizes contrasting with the price, the dishes were average without us having to complain about anything. For a second time, I would like to stress more about the potato curry and we recommend you order seconds.The fish paste dip, according to my Burmese counterpart, was, “The best Nga Pi I’ve ever tasted.” The Carp Mote Ti (2,500 Kyats), which must have silently crept onto our table was savory, light, refreshing and with cilantro. The broth had actual sautéed fish chunks in it and they tasted like—I never thought I’d have to say this but—

Address: No. 572, Corner of Lann Thit Street and Strand Road, Lanmadaw Township, Yangon Tel: 09 965 069934 Hours: Mon - Fri 10:30am - 8:30pm, Sat - Sun 10:30am 9:00pm

chicken. It was different from the usual Mote Ti, which are most of the time heavy in MSG and fish sauce. It isn’t our proudest achievement, but we actually had more than 6 servings of rice combined and our curries were depleting. So, we did what any other food reviewer might do, which was to order another dish—the Beef with Nga Pichat (5,500 Kyats). However, it wasn’t as good as we expected it to be. With the richness of the beef and heavy taste of the fish paste, it was too overpowering. Overall, Nga Pichat is a place that deserves to be visited often. May it be for lunch or a big family feast, it does its price range justice. There are three levels of spiciness, all of which are guaranteed to taste good. So pop in sometimes, and let your Nga Pi saga continues..

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

What’s new this month? Tha Gyi Thamee Tha Gyi Thamee is a upscale Burmese restaurant serving plain and simple Ah Nyar cuisine. Notable dishes are Ah Nyar Fried Chicken, Fried Mutton, and Pathein Fried Sausage. There are also noodle dishes as Nan Gyi Thoke, and deserts like Creamy Chai Tea. 57(B), Thar Yar Shwe Pyi Aye Street, Yankin Township, Yangon , 09 954 268585 Opening hours: 9 am – 7 pm

Boiling Shrimp Myanmar The Boiling Shrimp has seafood dishes in red paste which is hot and spicy. They have 3 special fried dishes along with lucky bonus (a giant bucket of shrimps) for every promotion. Coming to you in Sanchaung Tsp, gather your friends and stay alert. Sa - 7, Sanchaung Street, Sanchaung Township, Yangon 09 699953330 11 am – 11 pm

NooDi (new outlet) Customize your bowl with starch gravy, chicken soup or salad with three different types of noodles and 11 other toppings only at Noodi, now at Tamwe Township.

War Lone Gyee Shan Cuisine War Long Gyee or Big Bamboo Stick is a place where you can get shan foods along with their hand-made noodles rolled with a big bamboo stick. Not just shan noodles, they also have a wide range of shan food such as fried and steam dumplings. Address: 11 S Race Course St, Yangon , 092017326 Opening hours: 6pm - 9 pm

No. 28B, South Race Course Road, Near Race Course Condominium, Tamwe Township, Yangon 09 890522079 10 am – 7 pm

TEA Bar TEA BAR serves a satisfying flavor of the traditional milk tea along with Myanmar cakes and buns. No.(9), Paw San Hmwe Street, Thingangyun Township, Yangon 09 965 115441

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Eat & Drink

EC Cookery’s spacious front yard.

Sponsored

KNOB N’ KNOCKERS: EMPHASIZING GERMAN & ITALIAN CUISINES

stablished in Singapore back in 2010, Knob N’ Knockers is a newly-opened, one-stopservice bar/restaurant where you can hang out with your friends, significant others, and maybe even co-workers. Residing its storefront at the very inviting Pearl Condo building with many eateries varying from Korean to Japanese, Knob N’ Knockers attracts passersby with a big bright neon sign bearing its witty name.

Five years ago, Simon Lachmandas saw the lack of German and Italian restaurants, as opposed to the plethora of fast food places and Asian restaurants. The concept behind the Knob N’ Knockers brand is to offer the people of Yangon a chance to taste authentic German or Italian cuisine or maybe something in between without the price that comes with it. “Its purpose is not only providing a decent dining service with good and rich food, but also

a potential night-life scene,” says Simon. Many bars in Yangon are subject being just a stop-in to dine and drink, after which customers tend to go on to a place where they can pre-occupy themselves with good live music and so on. Introducing an option for a night of singing until the morning, Knob N’ Knockers is featuring its karaoke area just above the huge dining area.

Not only just karaoke, there are also plans for various comedy events where many internationally known stand-up comedians will entertain and make people laugh. Wine, beer, and fine liquors are all available in its Old West-style bar with its fancy blue neon light strips running along the top with crystal-clear glasses arranged in an orderly fashion.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Neon Lights at the Knob N’Knockers Bar The “Don’t Call Me Baby” Speaking of crystal clear glasses, Knob N’ Knockers’ signature cocktail, the ‘Don’t Call Me Baby,’ is set to delight because it’s made with a mixture of Scottish specialty Hendrick’s Gin, some sour mix, and a healthy slash of cucumber. It’s not just the drink that’ll surprise you, the drink comes in a special type of container.

which is personally vetted and maintained by Simon. A dish to remember, the signature Pork Knuckle will be a meal fit for at least 4 people. First stewed for 2 hours, and cooled before it enters the oven; finally cooked for 20 minutes at 180 degrees. To give the Pork Knuckle that satisfying crisp, it is then cooked for another 15 minutes.

Gastronomy at Knob N’ Knockers is set to please even the pickiest of eaters with its big menu,

It’s totally worth the wait, but if you’re keen on having a fast lunch, there are plenty of other

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

options. Such as the Chicken Schnitzel—a great option for those who don’t eat pork—one that can also be enjoyed to the fullest. It is made with chicken breast breaded and then fried in butter. If all this food talk made you hungry, why not pop in at Knob N’ Knockers to see what it’s all about. Enjoy their drinks, socialize and maybe even showcase your favorite dance moves -- only at Knob N’ Knockers.

Address: Tower D, G-12, Pearl Condo, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Tel: 09 699 849777 Hours: 11 am – 2 am

Arts

The End is the Beginning (Courtesy of the Artist)

KAUNG SU:

THE BIRTH & DEATH OF CIVILIZATION In about 3200 BC, civilizations developed in the region where southwest Asia joins northeast Africa. From that point onwards, establishments have existed and many have fallen. This is only one of the many subjects that experimental artist Kaung Su explores with a sense of concealed radicalism. Min Pyae Sone meets him at his studio to talk about his motif and outlook for ‘the bigger picture’. What Kaung Su calls the ‘Genesis’ of humanity began when human beings started to grow crops. The process of agriculture marks the start and the beginning of growth in civilization. From Mesopotamia to the Roman Empire, every one of these great civilizations began with a settlement in which fertile land and a body of water played a role; but a select few have withstood the test of time. Why? Kaung Su’s latest exhibition explains, questions, and portrays this topic. “It’s more of a look into both the past and the future; a ‘warning,’ than a statement,’’ he says, going for the intricate cycle of overambitiousness that human beings have utilized over and over again in the past.

The Tower of Babel, may it be myth or reality, was the topic of the discussion. It can sometimes be ambiguous, but it represented the epitome of human overambition; in exchange, the people of Babel and their civilization were disbanded. ‘’My works are containers loaded with depictions of the celestial hierarchy, a history of mankind, and a devastated environment. At the same time, they are tied to distant cosmic history and have multiple meanings. The depth image of the impact crater refers to the fate of humankind and the randomness of evolution. I am trying to recreate a memory of cosmic catastrophe.’’

In his mixed-medium (all sorts of materials or mediums) heavy canvases, most of which he implements less oil or acrylic paint, Kaung Su uses animal bones. The reason is understandable; the animal bones that are ground up and smeared across huge canvases indicate “fossilization.” Everyone will eventually become fossils, and this is how Kaung Su expresses it.

on it. According to Kaung Su, the maturity of an artist is a key factor in the overall quality of the artist and how they perform.

Kaung Su is the first neon light artist in Myanmar and a conceptual artist by nature. His style is very expressive, free, and to be frank, ‘mature.’ In a world where the amount of time for an issue to go viral and become stale is very very short, it isn’t very wise to base your entire motif

Kaung Su has participated and has been featured in many exhibitions. He has an upcoming exhibition, in September, on the topic discussed in this article.

In his neon light set-up, “Earth’s Pay,” featured in his solo exhibition Infinity Rising, Kaung Su tells us these works are, and his own words: “[a] celebration of our outrageous fortune in existing at all.”

Follow Myanm/art on Facebook to stay up-to-date with his latest works.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Music

Photo by Djavanshir.N

RANGOON RHYTHM:

KULTÜRESHOCK The rock and metal scene is close to non-existent in Yangon if we’re not counting the mainstream wave of what people perceive as “rock.” Despite many other extraordinary bands in Myanmar, what is Kultüreshock? Min Pyae Sone sits down with the lead vocalist Sküm to get to know who they are and what they represent. Kultüreshock is a Myanmar political punk band which stands against, as vocalist and punk veteran Sküm tell me, “the injustice, hypocrisy and atrocities of the system, authority and conformity in general on behalf of the oppressed have-nots both nationally and internationally.” Formed in 2009 and amidst the many line-up changes throughout its history, Kultüreshock is still rocking at many underground gigs, festivals and putting out many records. They play a fusion of hardcore punk and extreme metal subgenres of punk called crust punk, adopting a unique style of drumming known as d-beat—much like the legendary

hardcore punk band Discharge, for whom the style’s named to be. The current line-up is Sküm on vocals, Poeni Crash on guitars, Pyae Sone Aung on bass, and Lukas Frohofer on drums. However, Lukas, the drummer is away for now, they currently have to rely on their friends who play drums. Has released a demo called Extreme Punk Terror! in 2012 and a self-titled debut album in 2016, they’re currently writing new songs and working together on recording the second album to release before the end of 2020.

“We’re not so pleased with the current situation of Myanmar punk scene and movement altogether,” Skum says. As he has been in the scene for a long time, Skum is known for his criticism of Myanmar’s punk scene, and a very keen contributor to many other bands which he deems are true to their own values. “But tattoos and all-black outfits alone don’t make you part of the culture.” Skum goes on to add, “Most of those so-called punk kids here focus only on fashion and dressing up like punks rather than divulging themselves on music, culture, and ideology as they should.’’

“They’re just happy to dress up in punk fashion and care for nothing else at all.” For the time being, Kultüreshock’s going to keep playing gigs, record new songs and put out more records. “We’re totally not about money and fame as it’s never our intention of becoming rock stars, spreading the messages through our songs is all that mattered to us,” he ended the conversation. To keep up to date with Kultüreshock and their gigs, stay tuned to their Facebook.

Facebook MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Sports

Photo: Nway Nway Zaw Win (Facebook).

NWAY NWAY ZAW WIN

ONE MEDAL AT A TIME Karate or Karate Do is a martial art first introduced to Myanmar when the Japanese military had combat training to armed forces in Myanmar. Later in 1989, the Myanmar Karate Federation was officially established and recognized by the International Olympic Committee. Karate is certainly something that takes time to master unless you’re Nway Nway Zaw Win. Yuwati Nyi sat down with her to talk about her life and how she has become a kick-ass in an art of self-defence. Ever since fifth-grade, Nway Nway Zaw Win would come train at the Aung San Win karate hall every summer until the eighth grade when she joined track and field. In 2010, she became a part of the national squad as she was shortlisted and joined the team in 2011 to win a bronze medal in the 2013 SEA games. In 2016, she got married to one of her fellow national karate players and soon after, gave birth to her son. Entering this new stage in her life, she decided to put her efforts elsewhere. This was until she returned to the scene in 2018, consecutively joining a training camp and winning gold once again at the Thailand Open Karate Championships in 2019. She still continues to this day at the same Aung San Win Stadium where it all started. It was not difficult to balance her work and training, as sports

have become her way of life. She works as a Sports Officer of Karate in the Ministry of Health and Sports in Mandalay and her husband, a trainer in Mandalay. Her job grants her ‘on-duty’ so that she could take leaves from work to train for camp. Taking care of her one year and eight-month-old child, whom she had brought back to Yangon, may the only trouble she has with her vocation. Nevertheless, her family does help her take care of the child. However, it is evident that she is a caring mother as she still finds time to take care of her child. Truth be told, it wasn’t always sure for Nway Nway Zaw Win on whether she would actually return to karate when she gave birth. She recounts that there were people who told her: “What use would karate be? It would be best if you quit. You already have a child, it’s time to give your

time to your family.” During her maternity leave, she took time to think about this. She didn’t have injuries, the federation needed her, and there was no one in the national team to replace her for her weight class. As a mother, she decided to see how much she can achieve and decided to challenge herself. She planned to play karate till her knees hurt to the point she couldn’t play anymore; till there was no way for her to continue competing. Nway Nway Zaw Win also talked about how she has a very supportive family. Amongst all the negativity, her parents and husband told her to keep going as long as she can and as long as she is happy. However, situations can be uncalled for and she has been thinking about quitting in the coming year after competing in

the upcoming November 2019 SEA games. “It is still hasn’t been decided. The federation will most likely still need her after this year and you can’t tell what is going to happen,” she shares. She also encourages the next generation of karate selection players, to try their best. “There are some players but the numbers are not enough to actually advance to the international games,” she states. She ends the interview by expressing how she wants the younger generation to try hard enough to compete chest-tochest internationally. “The road does not stop there, this was just one of the many goals they had yet to achieve,” she added.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

OMNI Creative Filter System by Lensbaby Introduced ahead for obsessed photographers, Omni Creative Filter System comes in three options by Lensbaby. The three options are also called crystal wands to create unique effects by distorting the light as it passes through the lens. The crystal wands have the supports with magnetic force and can be positioned and moved around the groove of magnetic mounts in 360 degrees. In Omni Kit are: Crystal Seahorse, Stretch Glass and Rainbow Film. The product is now introduced for the customers to get ready for the whole package at the end of July available through shipping worldwide. The price is set to US$ 99.95 followed by the Crystal Expansion pack that costs US$ 49.95. Bravia X9500G SONY The latest model of SONY smart TV 2019, is invented with stunning features. This 4K Ultra HD Smart TV has the only Picture Processor named X1TM Ultimate and object -based Super Resolution embracing the thrills you’ll only get at home like you’re in a cinema- Dolby’s now at your home. Pixar and other Animated movies can be best viewed through this spectacular 3840x2160 resolution pixels. Over 20 languages are available and displayed. Every movement is also shown in X-Motion Clarity. A new feature will be its Dual Database processing, check out more in Sony’s official webstore.

TECH TALK Our roundup of some of the best tech to enhance your daily life in Myanmar. Expensify- Expense Reports

Globally recognised application of finance, ‘Expensify’ is a beneficial app in which one can track the receipts and manage expenses; updating the information just by uploading the photo of your receipts. The GPS tracking system also consists as an important function of showing exact business locations to continue the work despite the country or city. Expensify is called a virtual accountant by Wall Street Journal for its precise automation software and abilities. Travelling for business around the world, Expensify, is ready to be installed. Win Mobile

Apple Air-pods - Generation 2

Where to buy

The same as the Generation 1, Apple air-pod Gen 2 has come out months ago with a newcustomised design H1 chip which is allowed for advanced efficiency, giving rapid access to phone calls up to 50 percent. Another advantage is having longer battery life extending to 3 hrs when making calls. The latest generation is paired up with Qi charging case framing the ‘neat’ feature for both the Iphone itself and the pods; enabling you to go for optional wireless charging cases. The case is price-tagged: US$40 as an additional cost for the airpods. Either Gamers and Musicians would love this generation for its upgraded latency.

Established in 2012, Win Mobile has its sales and services stores opened up in many junction malls situated in Yangon. What’s next -- WIN Mobile has launched its first application from which the customer can first check out the new arrivals, updates and promotions before visiting the store for last decisions. Contact and software repair services are also performed by reaching the customers’ positive satisfaction level. Keeping pace with technology, Win Mobile application is what you got. Wattpad

Win Mobile Shan Kone Street, Sanchaung Township,Yangon Unique No 261 Pansodan Road (Upper Block), Kyauktada Township, Yangon Royal Digital Camera Shop No. 212, 37th Street (Upper Block), Kyauktada Township, Yangon Sony Showroom by TMW Enterprise Limited No. 04-020, Junction City 4th Floor, corner of Bogyoke Rd & Shwedagon Pagoda Rd, Pabedan Township, Yangon Apple Villa No. 52 Kyun Taw Road, Sanchaung Township, Yangon

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019

Well-known as the world’s social storytelling platform, Wattpad as it says: “Where stories live”, here you can get a part of you into a completely different world where you meet with those exciting people like you; Storytellers or novelists. Are you into original stories with unique life backgrounds? Or, maybe you can share your own story with this huge community who might want to know you more. The Kissing Booth on Netflix can be first read inside Wattpad app that has created a big family of 70 million readers.

MYANMORE magazine #34 August 2019