Myanmore Magazine - No.35/September 2019 by MYANMORE

No. 35 /September 2019 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free!

A PASSION FOR EDUCATION PYIT THIRI THAW

WOMEN OF VISIONS GALA 2019 FUN FESTIVALS AND LONG PUBLIC HOLIDAYS COMING UP! Q&A WITH EDWIN BRIELS

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

No. 35 /September 2019

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson

Editor

Min Ye Kyaw

Editorial Assistant Min Pyae Sone

Cover Photo

Gerhard Jörén

Photography

Htun Photography Khiri Travel Zwe Wint Htet

Contributors

Christian Gilberti Cliff Lonsdale Edwin Briels Nay Thiha Tom Sanders

Illustration

Ben Hopkins

Interns

T Nang Seng Myat

What’s On 6 Cinema 8

Art & Production Aye Myo Htay Phyo Thu Kyaw

The Teashop 10

Publisher

Cover Story

MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

Pyit Thiri Thaw 12

Feature

The Women of Vision Gala 18 Whatever Happened to the Carriages of the Burmese Kings? 22 The Art of Healing 24

Travel

Fun festivals and long public holidays coming up! 26

Expat Corner Edwin Briels 28

Printer

Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No. 00296/00371

Sales & Advertising

sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Eat & Drink The Able 30

Sports 33

New openings 31

Rangoon Rhythm 34

Arts 32

Tech Talk 36

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

Disclaimer

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

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MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

What's on Myanmar Connect 2019

17th & 18th September Myanmar Connect is the only conference to connect the entire telecoms industry within the whole nation. Explore developments and challenges faced by the telecoms community in Myanmar’s continued journey towards a digital future. Learn from the disruptors and understand the factors influencing market dynamics in Myanmar. For more information and reservation please contact info@ capacitymedia.com. Pan Pacific Yangon - Corner of Shwe Dagon Pagoda Road and Bogyoke Road, Pabedan Township, Yangon | 8 am - 3:45 pm

Wine Expo Myanmar 2019

26th September Myanmar’s Inaugural Wine Expo is poised to become the country’s most important wine event. Asia Expo Services is pleased to present a powerful platform for business, networking and learning, taking place over two days at the prestigious Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire Hotel. Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire - Corner of Myittar & Tha Khin Phoe Hla Gyi Road, South Okkalapa Township, Yangon | 10 am - 9 pm

Aqua Fisheries Myanmar 2019 26th to 28th September

The 6th Edition will be back in 2019 with its mission of promoting trade activities between International enterprises with Local companies in Myanmar. The show is organized by Minh Vi Exhibition with support from the Ministry of Livestock Fisheries and Rural Development Myanmar Fisheries Federation. Rose Garden Hotel - 171, Upper Pansodan Street, Near Kandawgyi Lake, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon | 9 am - 5 pm

Joint European Chambers Networking - 4th Edition 24th September

Alongside with The British Chamber of Commerce, CCI France Myanmar, EuroCham Myanmar, Chamber of Commerce Italia Myanmar, Myanmar Norway Business Council and SwedCham, the German Myanmar Business Chamber (GMBC) host the fourth edition of the Joint European Chambers Networking. Join like a professional from the seven European Chambers for an evening of networking and business mingling to expand your business network. Enjoy the free flow of wine & beer with live cooking stations and pass around canapes. You can register through info@gm-bc.com or through your respective chambers. Cost to Members: US$ 20 and Cost to Non-Members: US$ 30.

Myanmar’s Pride 4th to 6th October

Myanmar’s Pride Event is bearing the mission to proudly introduce and exhibit Myanmar’s natural resources, culture and locals products in one place and aim to pass on the cultural heritage to younger generations. The event will be organize as free entrance fees for local people of Myanmar and ticket price for the foreign visitors as 5 USD per pax (within event days). The Secretariat - Thein Phyu Road (Middle Block), Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 2 pm - 8 pm

Rosewood Yangon - No.14, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 8:30 pm

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Promotions this month Penne For your thoughts at Babett Yangon Babett Eatery & Bar will gratify your pasta cravings with mind-blowing recipes, starring one of the world’s top favorite starchy foods. Catering to an array of palates, Babett Yangon will serve pasta in nine styles starting at 12,000 MMK. Reservations are encouraged to avoid disappointment. Make your reservations at 01 243 639. Babett Yangon - No.5, Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 7 am 12 am

Wednesday Ladies Night at Ember Don't miss your chance to catch Lady Night promotion at Ember Japanese restaurant. For every lady, there is a 25% off for Freixenet Rose OR Freixenet Brut in every WEDNESDAY night. So tell your friends and will see you soon at Ember. Ember Restaurant - Corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road and Kan Bae Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | From 5:30 pm

50% Italian Cuisine Discount at The Ritz Yangon Imagine getting 50% off on some of the best Italian food in town from 1st to 30th September. The Ritz is welcoming customers to their beautifully decorated two-story restaurant for a lovely time with a lovely price tag. Come and enjoy the Ritz, only pay for the 50% charges for food. (Drinks are not included in 50% off promotion.) The RITZ Yangon - No.61, University Avenue Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 11 am - 11 pm

French Inspiration at Strand Café and Sarkies Bar This September, exclusively available in The Strand Café, Executive Chef Patrick Périé has curated a 3-course menu for just $19++ bringing to you flavours from Burgundy, Provence and Alsace regions of France with his “Flavours of France” set menu. At Sarkies Bar enjoy a selection of two handcrafted cocktails, the ‘Gavotte’ and ‘The Immortal Peugeot’ exploring the suave French brandy Cognac and the herbal French liqueurs Pernod and Bénédictine to create these French-inspired cocktails. The Strand Hotel - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Family Fun Getaway Package at Sedona Hotel Create wonderful memories with your loved ones with our Family Fun Package!Starting from MMK 274,350 or 177 USD NETT, enjoy a fun staycation in a Premier Room inclusive of buffet breakfast, lunch or brunch (Sat &Sun) or dinner at D’Cuisine. For more information please contact to 01 860 53 77. Sedona Hotel - No.1, Set Mhu 1 Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | All Day

Unlimited Saturdays at Prime Rib

Set Lunch at Knob N' Knocker – 5,500 MMK

8 hour SMOKED POINT END BEEF BRISKET will be served unlimited every Saturday evening with free flow beer from 6pm until 9pm at Prime Rib for Ks25000 per person. Reservations are highly recommended. so CALL Now to reserve, or take a chance. For reservations call 09264655551.

1. Fish Goujons served with French Fries and Tartar Sauce 2. Grilled Chicken Chop served with mashed potato 3. Slow Cooked Traditional Mutton Curry 4. Carbonara served with Bacon, Ham and Mushroom cream sauce Comes with a Applestrudel and a soft drink or coffee.

Prime Rib - Urban Asia Center, Ground Floor, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 9 pm

Knob N' Knocker - Pearl Condo, Kabaraye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 11:30 am - 3 pm

For more promotions, please check www.myanmore.com/promotions MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Cinema

Now Showing Angel Has Fallen Action

When there is an assassination attempt on U.S. President Allan Trumbull, his trusted confidant, Secret Service Agent Mike Banning, is wrongfully accused and taken into custody. After escaping from capture, he becomes a man on the run and must evade his own agency and outsmart the FBI in order to find the real threat to the President. Desperate to uncover the truth, Banning turns to unlikely allies to help clear his name, keep his family from harm and save the country from imminent danger. Cast: Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Piper Perabo & more.

Coming It Chapter Two Horror

Evil resurfaces in Derry as director Andy Muschietti reunites the Losers Club in a return to where it all began with "IT Chapter Two," the conclusion to the highest-grossing horror film of all time. Twenty-seven years after the Losers Club defeated Pennywise, he has

returned to terrorize the town of Derry once more. Now adults, the Losers have long since gone their separate ways. However, kids are disappearing again, so Mike, the only one of the group to remain in their hometown, calls the others home. Damaged by the experiences of their past, they must each conquer their deepest fears to destroy Pennywise once and for allâ&#x20AC;Ś putting them directly in the path of the clown that has become deadlier than ever.

York Times Best Sellers list. Theodore "Theo" Decker was 13 years old when his mother was killed in a bombing at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The tragedy changes the course of his life, sending him on a stirring odyssey of grief and guilt, reinvention and redemption, and even love. Through it all, he holds on to one tangible piece of hope from that terrible day...a painting of a tiny bird chained to its perch. The Goldfinch.

Cast: James McAvoy, Jessica Chastain, Jay Ryan, Bill Hader, Isaiah Mustafa, James Ransone & more.

Cast: Ansel Elgort, Oakes Fegley, Aneurin Barnard, Finn Wolfhard, Sarah Paulson, Luke Wilson & more.

HUSTLERS

Ad Astra

Hustlers follows a crew of savvy former strip club employees who band together to turn the tables on their Wall Street clients.

Astronaut Roy McBride travels to the outer edges of the solar system to find his missing father and unravel a mystery that threatens the survival of our planet. His journey will uncover secrets that challenge the nature of human existence and our place in the cosmos.

Comedy, Crime, Drama

Cast: Constance Wu , Jennifer Lopez, Cardi B, Mercedes Ruehl, Lili Reinhart, Keke Palmer & more.

The Goldfinch Drama

"The Goldfinch" is the film adaptation of Donna Tartt's globally acclaimed bestseller of the same name, which won the 2014 Pulitzer Prize for Fiction and spent more than 30 weeks on The New

Adventure, Drama, Mystery

Cast: Brad Pitt, Tommy Lee Jones, Ruth Negga, Donald Sutherland, Jamie Kennedy, John Ortiz & more.

Rambo: Last Blood

Action, Adventure, Thriller

first movie, First Blood, Sylvester Stallone is back as one of the greatest action heroes of all time, John Rambo. Now, Rambo must confront his past and unearth his ruthless combat skills to exact revenge in a final mission. A deadly journey of vengeance, RAMBO: LAST BLOOD marks the last chapter of the legendary series. Cast: Sylvester Stallone, Paz Vega, JoaquiÂn Cosio, Oscar Jaenada, Sergio Peris-Mencheta, Yvette Monreal & more.

21 Bridges

Action, Crime, Drama

The film follows an embattled NYPD detective Chadwick Boseman, who is thrust into a citywide manhunt for a pair of cop killers after uncovering a massive and unexpected conspiracy. As the night unfolds, lines become blurred on who he is pursuing, and who is in pursuit of him. When the search intensifies, extreme measures are taken to prevent the killers from escaping Manhattan as the authorities close all 21 BRIDGES to prevent any entry or exit from the iconic island. Cast: Chadwick Boseman, Stephan James, Sienna Miller, Taylor Kitsch, J.K. Simmons, Jamie Neumann & more.

Almost four decades after the

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Judy

Biography, Drama, History

Winter 1968 and showbiz legend Judy Garland arrives in Swinging London to perform a five-week sold-out run at The Talk of the Town. It is 30 years since she shot to global stardom in The Wizard of Oz, but if her voice has weakened, its dramatic intensity has only grown. As she prepares for the show, battles with management, charms musicians and reminisces with friends and adoring fans, her wit and warmth shine through. Even her dreams of love seem undimmed as she embarks on a whirlwind romance with Mickey Deans, her soon-to-be fifth husband. Featuring some of her best-known songs, the film celebrates the voice, the capacity for love, and the sheer pizazz of "the world's greatest entertainer." Cast: Renée Zellweger, Rufus Sewell, Finn Wittrock, Michael Gambon, Jessie Buckley, Bella Ramsey & more.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Abominable

Animation, Adventure, Comedy

When teenage Yi encounters a young Yeti on the roof of her apartment building in Shanghai, she and her mischievous friends, Jin and Peng, name him "Everest" and embark on an epic quest to reunite the magical creature with his family at the highest point on Earth. But the trio of friends will have to stay onestep ahead of Burnish, a wealthy man intent on capturing a Yeti, and zoologist Dr. Zara to help Everest get home. Cast: Chloe Bennet, Tenzing Norgay Trainor, Albert Tsai, Eddie Izzard, Sarah Paulson, Tsai Chin & more.

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

One Small Step for Man...

The Elephant in the Room

Wednesday 7th August 2019 saw the very first satellite named: ‘Myanmar Sat 2’ launched along with Intelsat 39 from French Guiana spaceport stationed off the north coast of South America. By 2022 at the country population is expected to experience broadband connectivity. Efficiency measures have been undergone and this satellite enables vital information to be shared in times of natural disasters’ attacks; ensuring safety and promoting rescue work.

The Elephant Flu has proven to be a big problem for people living in urban areas and those living nearby infected crowds and areas. Coming out with different reasons of causes from the majority of people, the answer is uncertain and rather, we suspect the H1N1 influenza virus that- it is a supporting factor or an ally of the Elephant Flu. Stay safe and be wary of big puddles of stagnant water.

Disaster in Mon State Days have been ‘miserable’ due to the horrible disaster striking Myanmmar’s Southern coastal areas. Flooding has devastated many locals with a high body count and many are displaced as a result of flooding and landslides which left the locals in despair. People from the city are now actively raising funds through volunteering and donating all the necessities for the victims from the flooded areas. We all are responsible to show in action when someone needs us.

Return of the Prem’ The table has been set, the results are rolling in. Will Liverpool finally get a trophy or will the Manc boys come up with more swagger dance moves. Nevertheless, it will be a season to watch. The loyal Myanmar fans will no doubt scream cheers from their tea shop stools to witness the full-on 90-minute drama fest. Game on!

Changes to Come in the Education System In the coming academic year, 20202021, students are expected to face a structural reform in education. All the course and lessons of Grade 4, Grade 7, and the upcoming Grade 9 curriculum will be changed. Expectations of future students to reach an international standard of education, the structure is taken as the prior foundation for certain successful future of the next generation of the country.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Cover Story

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Cover Story

A PASSION FOR EDUCATION Words by Cliff Lonsdale.

It’s been a tough week for Mrs Pyit Thiri Thaw, the founder and owner of The Myanmar Certified Training Centre (MCTC). As she grabs breakfast in the restaurant at the Pullman-Centre Point Hotel on Sule Pagoda Road, she switches between her coffee, her phone, her omelette and her laptop. Her cooling food seems to get less attention than it deserves as her focus lies elsewhere. Thiri is in the middle of putting the finishing touches to the preparations for the forthcoming Myanmar Women of Vision Gala event at the Rosewood Hotel on Strand Road. It’s a lot of work, but she is determined to make it a massive success. The Myanmar Women of Vision Gala event supported by the second lady of Myanmar Dr Anna Sui Hluan is a component of the growing Myanmar Women Leaders programme. The programme brings together some of the most influential women business leaders and entrepreneurs in the country. The aim is to strengthen their relationships, build collaborative opportunities, and to create lasting personal and professional change that will increase their leadership impact. Earlier this year Thiri led a diverse group of twelve Myanmar Women Leaders on an exploratory study trip to Europe. The group travelled to Germany, Italy, and Switzerland and met with a number of European Women entrepreneurs including Regine Sixt the Senior Executive Vice President of SIXT International, one of the largest car rental and leasing businesses in the world. They also visited several Universities in Germany, Switzerland and Italy and were hosted by TUM University in Munich who has an

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

all-women board to learn about the role that women leaders hold not only in business but also in academia. Through the trip, the women were able to learn more about gender equality in the European business environment and develop their entrepreneurship and innovation skills through workshops in Munich. They also had the opportunity to study Corporate Governance at St Gallen University in Switzerland. The trip was an excellent opportunity for the women to share information about Myanmar with their European peers and explain the challenges and opportunities faced by women entrepreneurs in the country. One of the most significant impacts that can be seen by the innovative Myanmar Women Leaders Programme has been the close-knit and supportive relationships that have developed between the participants themselves within Myanmar. Thiri is excited about the first-ever Global Women’s conference in Myanmar planned for November this year. This inaugural event will see international guest speakers from all over the world attending to support the growing network of Women Leaders in Myanmar, and to empower women entrepreneurs to develop and grow their businesses at all levels. Thiri always wanted to be a teacher, but she has the natural talent of an entrepreneur and has an eye for developing innovative solutions to harness potential. She self-financed her education in Singapore through this approach, obtaining a double degree in Business Management Marketing and Finance before working in India setting up 11 training centers across the country. When an opportunity became available to return to Myanmar in

Cover Story

With Prof Roland Berger in Munich during the Myanmar Women Leaders Program 2019

2012 to establish Lithan University in Yangon she jumped at the chance to return to her home and be a part of the growth of Myanmar. However, from her experience, Thiri could see that there was a massive amount of potential not being met in Myanmar. Myanmar was changing at this time, and despite Education reform, the skills gap between graduates and the real working environment was significant. Thiri believed that she could have a big impact in addressing that gap. From a storage room at the back of the Strand Hotel, with

just two employees, a table and three chairs, Thiri established the Myanmar Certified Training Centre (MCTC) - The first Competency-based and result oriented Training Provider in Myanmar. Their first project, the Myanmar Financial Centre (MFC) quickly established itself as a leader in its field by providing quality training and development solutions through international partnerships and internationally recognised certifications. Since its inception in 2015, MFC has contributed towards closing the workforce skills gap in areas MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Cover Story such as Banking and Finance and Project Management. In 2018 the Myanmar Future of Finance Fellowship held their first European study trip. Eleven senior representatives of Myanmar’s financial and banking sector visited Germany to explore the European financial markets. The trip enabled them to gain valuable international knowledge and experience in international finance, banking trends and new opportunities in the sector that they could bring back to Myanmar. Today MCTC employs a team of over 70 staff (the majority of whom are female) and the Myanmar Project Management Centre (MPC) was added to their portfolio of offerings in 2016. To date, MPC has supported over 3,000 professionals all across Myanmar in obtaining internationally recognised qualifications in Project Management. Courses are available in Yangon, Mandalay, Magway, Taunggyi, and Naypy-

Photo: Gerhard Jörén

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Cover Story

With the Myanmar Future of Finance Fellowship 2018 in Frankfurt

idaw, and more than a hundred students attend the 5-day Project Management Programme every month. MPC is currently the only education provider in the country hosting international students on a Project Management Programme. Such is the reputation of MPC that, professionals are coming to Myanmar from Singapore, Vietnam and Malaysia to study here. Thiri is keen to highlight that the rapid growth of MCTC is much to do with the hard work of her team and those that have supported her and believed in her vision, this includes the acknowledgement and support of several Government Ministries and numerous industry organisations. Although the forthcoming Myanmar Women Leaders event is Thiri’s main concern today, she always has her eyes focussed on the future. Her ability to spot a gap and develop an innovative solution to address that gap is something that she is good at, and something she enjoys. For example, the JUMPSTART not-for-profit program also established in 2017 has trained more than 800 undergraduate

final year students at seven universities across the country. The students gain vital Project Management skills and the essential soft-skills needed to attain and succeed in post-graduation employment. The publication of Myanmar’s first-ever Project Management magazine - PULSE, and the presentation of International Project Management Symposiums demonstrate her drive and passion and belief in the

future of Myanmar. MPC is both PMI and APMG accredited and can offer certification trainings such as Project Management Professional (PMP) and the first Project Management for Sustainable Tourism Programme (PM4SD), which is a vital component in the development and growth of the Myanmar Hospitality and Tourism sector. Thiri’s approach to her work and

her role in the development of Myanmar professionals is pragmatic and honest: “Myanmar is facing an enormous change, and now is the time to have a positive and sustainable impact and affect real change in people’s lives. Now is the time to do something together to change the country, we can’t just wait to see the change, we must be the change ourselves.”

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

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MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

THE WOMEN OF VISION GALA

Photos: Zwe Wint Htet

The first Myanmar Women of Vision Gala took place at Rosewood Yangon on the evening of September 5. Over 130 of Myanmar’s leading women joined the Women of Vision Gala 2019 to share a common vision for women, together with the guest of honor Dr Anna Sui Hluan, wife of Vice President Henry Van Thio, and Pyit Thiri Thaw, the night’s host and founder of the Myanmar Women Leaders Program.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

The evening featured several speakers and entertainment. Dr Anna Sui Hluan provided an inspiring speech to the audience in her own energetic and passionate style before joining her sister, the singer Sone Thin Par, on the stage with the hole room on the floor dancing. Other speeches held through out the night included Pyit Thiri Thaw sharing the vision of the Myanmar Women Leaders program and the importance to not only look at ourselves but to help women on all levels in society, to empower them and together improve the country. Dr. Win Min Thit, the first internationally certified neurology physician in Myanmar, touched upon the need to inspire others to lead and that leadership is not a position and you need to work for tomorrow. Dr Mya Lay Sein, current Deputy Minister for

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

Health and Sports for Myanmar and also a former badminton player, emphasised on her vision of keeping the door open to give support and not forget the positive benefits of a healthy lifestyle. The main sponsor of the evening AIA and the CEO Nhon Ly, shared their message of Healthier, Longer, Better Lives through out the night as well as their vision as they start their operations this year. The final speaker, Dulwichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lorna Wilson, shared her vision and insights in how education plays a pivotal role in shaping the women of today and opens endless opportunities.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

The beautiful evening was supported by AIA, Rosewood Yangon, Dulwich College Yangon, Alpine and Volvo Cars Myanmar. And using Thiri's own words: "This evening turned out to be just the stepstone we had hoped for, bringing Myanmar women together to united move forward to arrange the first International Women's Congress under the Myanmar Women Leaders Program and inspire women empowerment across Myanmar."

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

The ‘Circus Rath’ - Edwin Hughes’s Mammoth Equestrian Establishment

WHATEVER HAPPENED TO THE CARRIAGES OF THE BURMESE KINGS? Christian Gilberti

hen the British conquered Burma in 1885, thousands of precious art objects belonging to the kings and nobles of the Konbaung Dynasty (17521885) went missing. Among these were a number of state carriages that symbolized the power and majesty of the Burmese monarch. Some of these precious vehicles succumbed to the ravages of time, but two of them resurfaced in Britain to become the object of admiration, mystery and scandal. The story of what happened to these and other Burmese carriages tells us not only about the colonization of Burma, but also about the way in which Burma has been viewed by the West ever since. The Burmese monarchs had a long history of riding in carriages. In 1796, King Bagyidaw requested a European-style carriage from the British government in Calcutta in exchange for some territorial concessions along the border between India and Burma. The Burmese Empire was by then near the height of its expansion, having recently acquired the territories of Arakan, Manipur, Assam, Pegu and Siam, and Bagyidaw was in a good position to make demands from his neighbors. The King asked for an “English crane-necked chariot,” except on top of the fourwheeled coach he wanted “a royal spire...bearing a miniature resemblance to those which ornamented the palace and royal barge”. This addition was called a pyatthat and such ceremonial steeples were traditional on the carriages of the Burmese nobility. But when the British emissary Hiram Cox delivered the gift, the King quickly realized he couldn’t ride in it. The seat inside was too low and his subjects had to remain below him at all times. Instead, when he left the palace to perform the royal ceremonies or to make offerings at the pagoda, Bagyidaw had the new carriage dragged out in front of him, while he rode with his family in the old one in back.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Feature

‘King Thee Baw’s Golden Chariot’

Burmese state carriages began to fall into British hands. While British troops were looting Lower Burma, Colonel Miles’s 89th regiment discovered something amazing in the town of Tavoy (Dawei) in Tenasserim. Lying abandoned in a workshop was a Burmese state carriage that looked a lot like King Bagyidaw’s. Miles quickly sent it to Calcutta to be auctioned off as a trophy of war, and its new owner sent it to London to be displayed in the Egyptian Hall in Piccadilly Circus.

ratha meaning “chariot”). Sales of tickets rivalled those for Napoleon’s carriage which showed at the hall only a few years before. But this was not King Bagyidaw’s carriage. Eager newspapermen described the “Rath” as “the state carriage of the King of Ava,” but it’s spire only had the seven tiers of a nobleman, and not the nine tiers of a King. It is more likely that the carriage belonged to the Myo-wun, or provincial governor of Tavoy, U Shwe Toke. Nevertheless, the “Rath” was a marvel to behold, its entire surface covered in gold leaf and studded with over 20,000 jewels. Visitors marvelled at the handiwork of the artisans and the wooden figures which were “carved and ornamented in a style of vigour and correctness that would do credit to a European designer”. Descriptions of the carriage went a long way towards familiarizing Britons with a country they knew very little about and created an image of Burma as a “golden land” in the public imagination.

Crowds flocked to see the “Rath, or Burmese Imperial State Carriage” as it was dubbed by the owners of the museum (the word “Rath” coming from the Pali word

After the exhibit, however, the “Rath” quickly disappeared, though it was not forgotten. The design reemerged in 1847 as a circus carriage for Edwin

Fast forward to the First Anglo-Burmese War (1824-1826) and King Bagyidaw and the powerful Burmese Empire suddenly found themselves on the back foot for the first time in 75 years. Rangoon was seized by the British, the Burmese army was in disarray, and the king was forced to cede the provinces of Assam, Manipur, Arakan and Tenasserim to the East India Company in order to keep the rest of his kingdom intact.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Hughes’s “Great Mammoth Equestrian Establishment” and a new “Rath” was pulled through the London streets by a team of elephants, right past the Egyptian Hall where the original had once been displayed. Eventually, the riches of the Konbaung kings would prove too appealing for Britain to pass up. Burma was invaded and the whole of the country conquered in the Third Anglo-Burmese War of 1885. The last king of Burma, Thibaw, was deposed and forced to live in exile in a small town in India until his death in 1916. Every Burmese king had his own sumptuous carriage, and Thibaw’s was no exception - a gilt and diamond-studded chariot crowned with a white umbrella to symbolize the power of the King. But when it came time to make his exit from Mandalay Palace, it was not in this chariot, but in a common wooden gharry that Thibaw was forced to leave. With the King gone, the British claimed the finest of the royal regalia for themselves. But whatever became of the Thibaw’s “golden chariot”? In 1886, a British newspaper temptingly

reported “King Theebaw’s golden chariot has arrived in London,” but said no more on the subject. Photos from the period show two Burmese gentlemen sitting in a carriage under which a sign reads: “King Thibaw’s Royal Golden Chariot!”, but the location and date are unclear. Perhaps the strangest clue comes from a newspaper article published in 1899. The drivers of a carriage claiming to be “the golden State chariot of ex-king Theebaw” were fined in the City of London for using a coach for advertising purposes. Whether this was the actual chariot of King Thibaw, or, like the circus “Rath” of 1847, a cunning replica, we may never know. Sadly, it is now 135 years on and Myanmar has no original examples of its sumptuous royal carriages. Most have been lost to time. But it will be interesting to see if the government attempts to claim stolen art objects back from Western museums in the future. Who knows, maybe we might just see a Burmese royal carriage reappear? There’s no harm in hoping.

Feature

THE ART OF HEALING Nay Thiha

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

ental health issue is no longer a topic discussed behind closed doors. More and more people have become aware of it and even address it by exposing. According to Public Health Statistics (2014-2016), mental health problems per 100,000-population in 2016 revealed that 9 people reported with psychosis, 6 people had depression, 7 people showed anxiety and mental retardation, 5 stayed with epilepsy, and 120 depended on alcohol. Mental healthcare in Myanmar depends mainly on the two specialised hospitals in Yangon and Mandalay. About 60% of inpatient beds in mental hospitals are still occupied by chronic patients. (Ref: The Republic of the Union of Myanmar Health System Review 2014). What this survey reveals is that the government hospitals are obviously overpopulated. So this begs a question: Is there an alternative way to heal people with mental disorders? Yes, according to Aung Clinic. The clinic held an art exhibition “The Room” on 1st August, showcasing the paintings drawn by 25 people with mental disorders.

This is also a fruition of the idea of the clinic to help patients heal through art therapy. Dr San San Oo, the leader of the initiative, said: “I’ve been working on this concept since 2010 but it was miniature. Then I received a fund from Open Society Foundation in 2016 and somehow I managed to expand my clinic.” Aung Clinic provides help to people of all ages with mild to severe mental health problems such as anxiety, depression, stress, trauma, PTSD, psychosis, bipolar disorder and schizophrenia. It offers different types of support tailored to each patient’s condition, including counselling, psychiatric medication, support groups, medical care and vocational skills training. “We have different approaches with different patients, nearly 200 and art therapy is just one of them,” said the psychiatrist who is also working as the head counsellor at the facility. The one-day event exhibited about 200 paintings of different sizes. At the centre was Nyo Min Win whose portraits received attention and applause of many visitors.

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Nyo Min Win, or just Min, had suffered from bipolar disorder and sought medical attention since 2003. “I’ve been drawing people’s faces since 2016 when I was admitted to Aung Clinic. I used to overthink everything and I noticed that drawing makes me calm.” Min also had an anger issue due to his condition. When he started receiving art therapy, he showed particular interest in passport and licence photos. His therapist took notice and showed him photos of different people without telling him who they were. He chose the photos he thought were simple to draw. His paintings at the exhibition portrayed various philosophers and writers from Buddha to Sigmund Freud. There were also portraits of some mundane people he knew on Facebook simply named “Facebook Friend”. Another artwork that caught my eyes was the one named “Emotional Demon”. The picture looked scary, yet sad. When I asked around, I learned that the artist behind the painting was called Khin, a patient with PTSD, who loves using bright colours.

When asked about the potential of the therapy, Dr San San Oo replied: “Globally, art is being used in many situations. The therapists need experience with different forms of art, of course. In countries like Japan, art therapy is widely used as an alternative remedy for psychological health which also a subject to research extensively.” She stated that art therapy was successful because the patients at the clinic showed a significant improvement in their moods and behaviours and there were also fewer relapses. “We have an experienced art therapist at the clinic. Also, many former patients stay around and help the newcomers. This peer system allows us to observe how much the patients understand the therapy and its benefits.” Min is now one of those seniors, helping new patients with their work. “Many think that people with a mental illness are impractical. So I want to help other people like me to know their own capacity and realise what most people think is not true. No matter what, no one is ever useless,” said Min.

Travel

FUN FESTIVALS, AND

LONG PUBLIC HOLIDAYS,

COMING UP!

Photos: Khiri Travel

re you the kind of person who is always the last to realize a public holiday is coming up? The Myanmar government just announced even more public holidays than we already had by giving compensation days in case a public holiday falls on a weekend. Great for some travelling upcountry so do mark these public holidays in your calendar and start planning: Thadingyut public holiday – 5 days: Friday 11 Oct – Tuesday 15 Oct Tazaungdaing public holiday – 5 days: Saturday 9 Nov – Tuesday 12 Nov Many traditional Myanmar festivals are held after the Buddhist Lent (the customary 3 months retreat when monks don’t travel and many people practice by giving up, for example, meat or alcohol). The festivals are fun gatherings of communities often combined with games, a funfair,

good shopping deals, and of course food. Many townships around the country organize a pwe which are fantastic festivals to join as a tourist. The more traditional ones have a theatre with dances, slapstick, and singing performances often going on till late night or even early next morning. Other festivals have become huge events with competitions amongst communities like to build the biggest papier-mâché hot air balloon or have the best dancing elephant performance (note for the animal rights activists: Before start calling the Myanmore management, be aware that the elephants are papier-mâché ones replicas worn by 2 men who perform often acrobatic dances - no real elephants are used, come to think of it… Myanmar is probably the first country using “elephants” for festivals in a real sustainable way). Here is a list of the upcoming festivals around the country, some are famous and getting

crowded while some are very much unknown and worth visiting as well. As many local tourists are travelling during Thadingyut and Thazaungdine public holidays, public busses, domestic flights, and hotels are fully booked so do start now to plan your long weekend upcountry. Manuha Pagoda Festival Bagan – 12th to 14th September 2019 Manuha Pagoda Festival is held for 3 days starting from the previous day to Full Moon Day of Tawtalin. The Myinkaba region dwellers donate rice cakes and pickled winter melon to the visitors during the festival. This traditional practice is said to have descended from the time of the King Manuha and can still be seen at the festival today. Colourful papier-mâché figures competitions take place during the Manuha Pagoda Festival and you will see a parade of colours around the city in the forms of the Manuha King himself, tigers,

cows, elephants, horses, etc. Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda festival Inle Lake – 29th September to 16th October 2019 A spectacular festival whereby boats with up to 50 or 60 leg rowers are pulling a barge with sacred Buddha images from one village to the other on the lake. Try to be in a private boat on the lake and ask the boatman to enquire where the procession will be passing and you can be sure to make some great images of this procession. It is a nice festival to visit although it can be a bit crowded. Plan to have a couple of days in Inle Lake to make sure you don’t miss the procession as there is sometimes a “resting day” or call your travel agent. Dancing elephant festival Kyaukse – 12th to 14th October 2019* Kyaukse, about 3 hours’ drive from Bagan (same distance from Mandalay) is famous for the

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big papier-mâché elephant costumes made there. Two men wearing the elephant costume perform acrobatic dancing on the streets of Kyaukse. A good festival to see village life in Myanmar, there are no real elephants involved in this festival. Thadingyut (festival of lights) Nationwide – 12nd to 14th October 2019 The end of the Buddhist Lent is a time to pay respect to parents, teachers and elderly persons. On the full moon day of October (often the middle of October) houses and pagodas are lit with candles. If you’re in the country on this day, light a candle near your hotel and walk around the city in the evening (or visit the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon if you happen to be there) and enjoy the magical atmosphere.

Shinpin Sagyo Pagoda Festival Salay – 21st to 24th October 2019 Shinpin Sagyo pagoda located in Salay (1.5 hrs.’ drive from Bagan) celebrates this festival twice a year where thousands of pilgrims from the different villages participate in alms offering to the pagoda and monks. You can visit the market as local vendors selling local snacks, seasonal fruits and goods. Festival Mya Tha Lon Magwe – 06th to 24th October 2019 One of the famous pagoda festivals in the central part of Myanmar in Magwe Division with traditional performances, a funfair and typical food from the dry zone. Shwezigon Pagoda festival Bagan – 29th October to 12th November 2019 This is a temple festival attended by thousands of villagers from the whole region. The highlight is a procession of hundreds of monks collecting donations on the full moon day of Tazaungdaing. Very interesting to go and see the festival if you’re in the Bagan area. Taunggyi balloon festival Taunggyi: 03rd to 12th November 2019 Taunggyi is famous for the Tazaungdaing celebrations when huge papier-mâché hot air balloons (in different shapes) are launched from the crowded festival field in Taunggyi. Once the balloon reaches a height of about 20 meter the fireworks attached to the balloons are launched in all directions. A fun and spectacular festival which you should try to join if you’re in Inle Lake area. Don’t get too close to the launch site of the balloons, hot dripping wax (or firecracker) tend to fall on the crowd. Pyin Oo Lwin balloon festival Pyin Oo Lwin: 03rd to 12th November 2019 Pyin Oo Lwin hot air balloon festival normally held near Maha Anthookantha Pagoda and the festival for the first time in 2005. It is similar, but smaller in scale to the festival in Taunggyi which takes place at the same time of year. Tazaungdaing (festival of lights) Nationwide – 10th to 12th November 2019 This is the time that yellow robes (and many other monks’ accessories) are offered to monks around the country. During the days prior to the festival, you will see bamboo poles with donations (including bank notes folded in beautiful shapes). On the evening of the festival, hot air balloons are launched throughout the country and most of the temples organise weaving competitions. A good time to be in any medium sized town in Myanmar. My personal favourite festival? I think the balloon festival in Taunggyi is spectacular! I advise to go in the day time when the animal shaped balloons are launched and stay till about 9 or 10 pm to see some of the balloons lightened with candles and fireworks. Use common sense and it’s NOT dangerous (as some people might tell you); stay within designated areas far from the launch site. Especially for families, the day time is most fun actually and much quieter. Edwin Briels is MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been working for over 15 years in travel in Myanmar and will share his experiences travelling in Myanmar in a monthly column. Khiri Travel 01 375 577 khiri.com – edwin@khiri.com

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Expat Corner

EDWIN BRIELS

23 year old Dutch man working in Thailand decided to come to Myanmar for the water festival in 1996. Tourism was quite different that time and travelling meant going by bus or train overland through the whole country which he did several times as a tour leader. He is still around, sharing with others the beauties that have captured him here for so long. Min Ye Kyaw, sits down with Edwin Briels, Founder & MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar to discuss about his pursuit and plans for the future ahead. What is your background? I studied Facility Management in the Netherlands which is a bit of a “Jack-of-all-Trades” study. I started working in tourism because I wanted to travel a lot. Of course, as a fresh graduate, you don’t have that big of a budget so I decided to work as a tour leader which meant I could travel and earn a living at the same time. Besides, I also worked for a French travel agent, Bagan Cybertech (Myanmar’s first internet service provider), managed a hotel construction project in Putao, and worked with a Ballooning Company. After my first 6 years in Myanmar, I went back to Thailand for 3 years and came back 8 years ago to start Khiri Travel Myanmar.

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What made you start Khiri Travel Myanmar? I noticed that travel programs offered overseas were all focusing on visiting temples and pagodas. Personally, I think the best thing about Myanmar isn’t the temples but rather the people, so I wanted to start a company that would let visitors experience the hospitality and friendliness of the Myanmar people and to connect them with the communities. We created programs including home cooked meals so visitors could experience the Myanmar home cooked food and meet local people. Sometimes we put visitors on a train or bus - just for the experience as we know for sure that whatever train or bus our clients travel on, they will meet friendly Myanmar people and have a great experience and story to tell afterwards. How does your company innovate? How does it work? At Khiri Travel, we innovate! We are also very flexible with clients and are able to adapt programs according to their wishes. As a company, we take sustainability very seriously. I think that every company in Myanmar, and other parts of the world, should not just try to avoid causing a negative impact on the environment but actively search for ways to have a positive impact on People and Planet. Khiri Travel Myanmar supports local NGOs and communities through our projects (www.khirireach.org) like building wells in the dry zone, planting trees and setting up Burmese Star Tortoise information centre in Minzontaung. We select our suppliers carefully and check if they are sourcing ethically, take good care of their staff and of the environment. We also started helping individuals to set up their own businesses - like a cooking class, a travel agency, bike rental, kayak rental or just providing meals for travelers at their home. What are your passions for travel industry in Myanmar? Sending clients to remote areas. Of course, people know about highlights like Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, and Inle lake. We try

to tell our clients to skip one of the highlights and go to a more remote area like Hsipaw, Mon & Kayin state, Kayah state and Salay or Yandabo instead. Generally, they always come back and say they’ve enjoyed going a bit off the beaten track. I believe, that in such a big country as Myanmar, we should create good job opportunities all over the country rather than only in the big cities. The Myanmar youth should get opportunities in remote areas where they were born and show their own cultural heritage - that’s why we develop tourism in those areas. What’re your thoughts about it? Is it failing? It’s not failing, it sometimes goes up and sometimes goes down. We had some peak years a while ago and it’s normal to experience a decline after that because of ‘bad publicity’ but there could have been other reasons for a decline as well. Overall the tourism industry is slightly growing every year, as the number of Asian and domestic tourists is growing which compensates the slowdown of European tourists. An important factor for the Myanmar economy and the tourism industry is to look at the average spending per day and we see that many Asian tourists do spend more per person per day than European. In every geographical market there are travelers who spend a lot and travelers who spend a bit less; I think we need both types for the tourism sector to grow sustainably. It is important to get more tourists to Myanmar during the green season so people working in tourism can earn a livable income all year round. Of course, there’s a lot of room for improvement but things take time. What was your biggest fear when you started Khiri? My biggest fear, actually, was not to “overpromise and under deliver” to local people and small suppliers. We help people all around the country to set up or grow their own business with a network of 12 offices in Myanmar. We don’t own these

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business but we simply support them as well as other suppliers. I was afraid of not having enough clients to support all these different branches and suppliers for them to sustain themselves. But, it worked out pretty well in the end, even during the last couple of years, we succeeded in supporting all of them. How do you see travel in several years? Positively, it will develop since people around the world have got more awareness about Myanmar as a tourist destination. I’m confident that the number of tourists will increase. What I do hope is that tourism will be spreading out to different areas to boost the economy of remote areas. Myanmar is a “visit the whole-year-round” destination and every season has its own advantages or disadvantages, so it is nice for travelers to visit throughout the year. What are your plans for the future? To continue growing, and come up with new ideas to improve tourist experiences for travelers and to increase income for local people working in tourism in Myanmar. We’re now working on a trekking adventure at the three lakes: Inle Lake, Samkar Lake and Pekon Lake - to go from one lake to the other on foot. We have new programs in Mon and Kayin State and we’re opening in the coming months a small lodge south of Ngapali beach to support the community. A lot of plans, as always and thanks to the excellent Khiri team around Myanmar we always manage to succeed. Where is your favorite destination in Myanmar? I like so many places here, but if I were to list a few, it would be “the opium trails.” It’s a path from Kyaingtone to Taunggyi over land; so much beautiful scenery and lovely hill tribes. Not many people do it, but we enjoy overland trips. We first discovered this area when we were organizing the TV shoot for BBC’s Top Gear and we then asked permission

from authorities to show more travelers this beautiful area. And the three lakes, Inle, Samkar and Pekon lake. Many tourists tend to focus more on Inle Lake but all of them are equally beautiful. And of course, Ngapali. When people ask me what it’s like, I’d say, “Imagine the best beach in Thailand, but without all the tourists businesses, bars, souvenirs shops and all the noise; That’s Ngapali.” What’s your advice for people who intend to visit Myanmar? My first advice would be for people who live in Myanmar. I see a lot of people from Yangon taking a flight to Bangkok during long holidays like Thadingyut, Thingyan or Tazaungdaing. If you want to support Myanmar and the economy, it’s better for everyone to go on holiday in Myanmar. That’s what we need. Secondly for every tourist: Keep your country clean. As a company, we support the Bagan Plastic Campaign and create fully paid jobs for two local people to collect litter around Bagan so we know first-hand how much litter there is, unfortunately. So please, keep Bagan clean and keep Myanmar clean and don’t throw rubbish in the nature. And for people who come to Myanmar from overseas: make sure you meet local people. I see many travelers who want to do everything on their own, without a guide and end up not having a proper conversation with any local Myanmar person to understand the country and culture. Most information they get is from other travelers, guide books or online media while I do think it’s worth to get to know a local perspective of the culture. The best part of Myanmar is its people, so make sure you meet the locals and have great conversations with them. Ask them about life, the country and the traditions. Find Edwin at Khiri Travel Myanmar on 5/9, Bogalay Zay Street (lower block) 1st floor, Botataung Township, Yangon or at khiri.com.

Q&A & Drink Eat

THE ABLE: SERVING WITH HEARTS Nay Thiha

owadays, Yangon’s café scene is growing fast and standing out from the crowd is not exactly a piece of cake. Nevertheless, the latest contender to the fierce competition is The Able Café, with a new belief. Recently opened a week ago in lower Bogalayzay street, The Able is located on the second floor in an old building which will be hard to find on the first visit. What extraordinary about this place is the entire staff – from servers to chefs – is composed of people with hearing and speech impairments. Ko Myo Kyaw Thu, a co-founder of the cafe, says he always wanted to do something to help people with physical handicaps and that’s why he decided to start the café with his two compatible friends. “We have to think about how to make the workplace comfortable for them since they can’t hear you calling. So we have installed an LED light bulb at each table, then you just have to press it to get their attention.” Another thing you would notice here is the rich collection of books both in Burmese and English languages on the shelves. Myo says he wants to resurrect the coffee-and-book experience from today high-speed Wi-Fi incident. But the place itself is a bit dim to read for overlong and Myo notices this, too. He mentioned the Head Chef here had an experience working in the kitchen of a fine-dining restaurant in Yangon. The cafe now focuses on Burmses and Thai cuisines. “We are now experimenting different menu, shifting from day to day to find out what are the customers’ favourite dishes.”

I tried the Rice Salad (3,500 Kyats) that comes with pork cuts dipped in dressing sauce. The taste is satisfying but it would be better if it comes in a bowl – easier to mix all the in4gredients. The Seaweed Salad (3,000 Kyats) is an average rate. Both meals are generous in portion, and the Mango Juice (2,500 Kyats) has genuine, sugar-free sweetness of mango and is really delightful! Myo says his plans for expanding to the upstairs, offering halalcertified meat and of course installing a brighter interior lighting system to attract more readers. “Now I’m learning sign language, and customers can learn for free, too. We have a teacher.”

If you’re a quick learner, you may one day be able to make orders in sign language rather than point at the items on the menu – or even make jokes with the staff about your unsuspecting friends.

No (58), first floor (left), Bogalayzay Street (Lower block), Botahtaung Tsp, Yangon 09 963 034 495 11am – 8pm

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What’s new this month?

Eat & Drink

Beauty In The Pot @ Pyi Daung Su Yeik Tha Street Beauty in The Pot Hot Pot has a variety of soup, Hot Pot and other various Chinese dishes. Originally from Singapore, It has two branches in Yangon which are very spacious and welcoming to people who love a good warm serving of Hot Pot No.33, Corner of Pyi Daung Su Yeik Tha Street and Khayay Pin Street, Dagon Township, Yangon

Harry’s Royal Sportainment Complex The Singaporean based establishment controls a wide swath of pubs across Yangon. Located in Myanmar’s first ice skating and bowling sports complex, patrons will love the combination of fun, sports and drinks with friends and families located in a convenient and spacious location. They have a few beers on tap and a host of cocktails to choose from. While they consider themselves a bar first, they have a quality food menu that features artisan western dishes. This is one of the few places that opens early and closes late. Inside Royal Sportainment Complex (In front of Victoria Hospital), Taw Win Road, 9 Mile, Mayangone Township, Yangon 09 777 798805 11 am - 12 am

Pepper Lunch Meat, rice and loads of pepper. The signature staple piece of world-renowned Japanese franchise Pepper Lunch. Now in Myanmar, the ‘fast-steak’ chain is now offering beef, chicken, and salmon options - which are of course available with all kinds of cheese. Junction Square Extension, Between Pyay Road & Kyun Taw Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon 09 761 390402 10 am - 10 pm

The Heaven Bistro The Heaven Bistro, officially open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, is a cosy two-storey building that will make you feel fancy while you enjoy their soups, noodle and rice dishes. No-4, Ground Floor, Room (I, J), Wingabar Street, Bahan Township, Yangon 09 44644 6117 7 am - 10 pm

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The Arts

“Reminiscence 1” - Guillaume D’Agaro. Courtesy of the Artist.

GUILLAUME D’AGARO:

SPEAKING THROUGH LAYERS Guillaume D’Agaro is a French mixed-medium visual artist, besides being an elementary school teacher at The French International School of Yangon. Min Pyae Sone meets him at his studio home to discuss his works and motif.

“Energy and motion made visible – memories arrested in space,” a phrase from Pollock, describing his own work. We delve into an almost Freudian concept of our subconscious and how we can feel an attachment with a painting. Guillaume is, in fact, very different compared to Pollock - both in style and aesthetic. Nevertheless, the phrase above compromises Guillaume’s motif and concept perfectly. He and Pollock have different backgrounds, like how the person writing this and the person reading this could have very little in common. How can we relate to one another, subconsciously, without prolonged conversations and tedious socializing? How can

we have something we can share - aesthetically? Born in Cannes and with an extensive background in academy art in Belgium and Slovakia, but never in France, he became fascinated by modern and contemporary art more than the classical. The Belgium artistic educational system was perfect for him as it encouraged him to perform mixed media and installations. “I was more sensitive to the aesthetic of things. We had one or two classes of Intro to Philosophy and it just really fits me,” he said with a cheerful smile. Moving to Egypt and then to Myanmar was a transitional

period for Guillaume’s snowball of artistic capability as it can be seen in most of his works, which are layered, something he tells me, “takes ages to dry.” A layer of both acrylic and oil paint a day for countless layers seems to be a very mentally tiring process. His works are layered because, in fact, his creation, his thoughts, and his experiences throughout his life are, in a sense, also layered. Guillaume’s solo exhibition “Postit” at Pansuriya will be exploring the concept of memories and have different types of people coming in and questioning themselves. “If I affected, at least one or two people with my art, I’ll be happy and feel as if I’ve done my duty.” The confusion between

what we have in common and the differences, that is what Guillaume is trying to explain, embrace and portray. In one of his paintings, “Reminiscence 1,” a cacophonous mixture of very bright pink, mellow bluish-green, and a tangy orange bloom is “suspended” upon a whitewashed canvas. To reminisce, looking back to a more nostalgic time; reminded by times of serenity and pleasure while being grounded by the harsh metallic matte black layered on top. Maybe this is a distorted scene of something you’ve seen before but never really gotten to remember? Guillaume can be contacted via his email: gdagaro@gmail.com

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Sports

Photo: Htun Photography

THWE THWE SOE:

ROAD TO SEA GAMES 2019 Surfing was first introduced in 2015 at the Ngwe Saung Yacht Club & Resort where the Myanmar Wave Rider Cup was hosted with over 30 athletes from 10 countries participated. Since then, the sport has been growing gradually with more local surfers from Bugwe Village joining the ranks of the team. A great milestone was achieved this year as Surf Association of Myanmar was established and recognized by the Ministry of Sports as well as the International Surfing Association, the world governing authority for surfing. Min Ye Kyaw meets one of its main player for a quick chat. Thwe Thwe Soe, or Nida, according to her friends, the only female athlete on the National team and the most experienced surfer will be taking part in the biggest international competition in her vocation, the 30th SEA Games that will be held in the Philippines this December. Since 2015, she has surfed at 7 beaches in California, 9 beaches in Indonesia and Ngwe Saung beach in Myanmar being the most current spot before she finally competes in the SEA GAMES. Born and raised in Yangon, Nida has always loved sports since a very young age. She used to run around her house as fast as she could just to see how many laps she can do before her body almost collapsed. Not a ‘less stress, more success’ player, she paddles her limits in the ocean.

“The first time I surfed, I cried. I was completely clueless about how it works. I totally sucked,” she giggled. Bulletproof, she urged herself to catch her first wave and when she did, she was very contented. An Adrenaline rush through her veins, as her body realizes its size compared to the colossal ocean. With a smile, she admits, “I’m thrilled that we, human beings, can do this.” Nida has officially joined the National team on May 2019 after the National Surf Competition. With her first board, Second hand 5ʼ6” Super Brand Fish board, she has also practiced with her friend Robby, recently hired as a coach of the National team, around 5-7 hours almost every day for two months in California, and now, Bali.

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Every day, they would push each other in and out of the water along with two coaches and team manager who film their records. In the evenings they would go over the clips again to see where can they improve.

friend after a long day.

“The boys push me out of my comfort zone. They push me to surf bigger waves that I normally would not if I was by myself. Being the oldest ones in the team with the most experience, I cannot be a wuss in front of them,” she talked about preparations for the SEA GAMES.

Her advice, to those who would love to pursue their dream of surfing, is to meditate which also helps her a lot to stay calm in every situation. Hence the ocean can be a scary place sometimes, and it is not always sunshine and rainbows in surfing. So in advance, she pointed out a few tips; respect the ocean, find the waves that are suitable for your level just in case to avoid unnecessary encounters and most importantly, learn to have fun whereas surfing is not supposed to be an extensive sport.

“All of us look like Blackie Chan now,” she added and laughed. Grabbing a Super deluxe Baja fish burrito and a large ice cold coke after surfing would refill her energy, yet she misses her favorite spot in Latigo Beach, Malibu, CA where she used to see the beautiful sunset with her

“The sky turns pink and so does the water, you look around and it's so beautiful you have to pinch yourself to see if this is real,'' Nida recalls.

“Yes, try-hard, be competitive, stay positive, and never forget to surf with style,” she agreed.

Music

Photo: Provided.

RANGOON RHYTHM:

BOUHINGA

Bouhinga are recording in Myanm/art, a white walled, highceiled art gallery in downtown Yangon. Outside, heavy rain is falling, and dirty water is bubbling up from the sewers. Inside, the gallery walls are hung with paintings from Aung Myat Htet’s expressionist art exhibition Consciousness of Realities .The exhibition is a series of double exposed paintings and visual misdirects, a schizophrenic blend of traditional iconography and the interpolated present. In front of me, Tom Sanders, are four young men in white shirts and dress shoes, perched on plastic chairs before an impressive grand piano. Bouhinga is Pyae Phyo, Bryan, Rico and Soethe singer, main songwriter and de facto spokesman. Soe and Pyae Phyo met in Yangon in 2018. Pyae Phyo introduced Soe to Rico, and the two began making music together. As time went by, the pair decided they wanted to integrate other forms of art into their group, so Pyae Phyo joined, followed by Bryan. Today, the four are nearinseparable. Bouhinga is a portmanteau of mohinga, the traditional Burmese breakfast soup, and bougie, an informal abbreviation of bourgeois. The story of the name is told to me thusly: on a night out, the

topic of Yangon Zay market came up, where salmon Mohinga is sold at absurd prices to slack-jawed foreigners day-drunk on sparkling wine. Something about the overpriced commodification of the humble mohinga stuck in the band’s craw. “Mohinga is a food for common people, cheap, practical, a labourer’s meal - to make it bougie is pretentious, absurd and almost insulting” explains Pyae Phyo. There’s something in the selfaware name of these middle class Burmese boys that touches on this strange tension, and although it began as a throwaway joke, it has remained, even as the music and group have evolved. On the day I met them, the group had just finished a recording of two of their songs in the Myanam/art space in the Urban Asia Centre. Playing live, the challenge was to recreate the dreamy spaced-out sound of the studio recordings using only a piano, guitar and the sound of Soe’s ethereal voice - evocative, soulful, and more than a little reminiscent of Thom Yorke. As the group’s main songwriter, Soe is also the face of the band in interviews. “The end product is usually significantly different to the original idea” he admits. Asked how he would describe their music, he hesitates. “Some of it is dreamy… some of it is

melancholic… all of it is sad… so far, at least.”

prefers writing in English. The members of the band are hesitant to cast judgement on Myanmar’s modern-day music scene. Soe humbly explains that as a recent arrival, he feels that he does not yet know enough to discuss it.

Although the original concept of Bouhinga was as a musical partnership, the group plans to incorporate more multi-media influences in future. The videos for their first two singles are both striking, and do a good job of reflecting the alienated soundscapes of the music itself, and the band’s photoshoots show a strongly curated level of attention to detail. The group have released three songs to date. The first, Somnia / Sunshine No Longer Wakes Us, is sung in English over strummed acoustic guitar, compressed drums crashing in the background. Soe’s heavily abstracted English lyrics give the song a psychedelic appeal, reinforced by the music video. The second, Chay Tan (Footsteps), continues the melancholy feeling, this time sung in Burmese over sped-up footage of Yangon’s bustling streets and markets. The latest effort, Bionic Feel, is the catchiest of the three, keeping the focus on Soe’s plaintive voice, the repetitive, strained vocals meshing with the lyrics to create an immersive slice of melancholic psych. Of the songs so far, two are in English, and one in Burmese. Soe insists that the general themes are the same - (isolation, depression and loneliness, naturally) although overall, he

However, they do admit that they see themselves as separate from today’s scene, and that seems accurate - bouhinga’s vaporwave dreamy noise-pop is a far cry from the pounding EDM and trap sounds currently making waves in Yangon’s underground. As Rico puts it “we just have four people and four brains put together… we do whatever comes to our mind, we don’t worry too much about what else is going on.” What’s next for Bouhinga? Live shows, perhaps, but weirdly enough, the group suggests that a comedy sketch show is something they’ve considered. In any case, one thing is clear artistic freedom and choice are the main priority. Any message for the youth of Myanmar?, I ask, putting down the recording equipment. “Just do what you want,” says Pyae Phyo, with a smile. Type Bouhinga into Facebook, Youtube, Spotify or Bandcamp to hear the group’s music today..

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019

Samsung Note 10+ Spacious rooms for videos and files of 1TB with a micro SD card have now taken into position of a laptop in Samsung’s latest Note 10+. A 30- minutes charge will make your day completed without a beat delay in all the functions. Fast Wireless Charging is now installed as well, multitaskers will definitely find the Note 10+ (1,699,000 MMK) a light-speed processing robot that has come to be alive with RAM712GB. The upgraded Audio system and processor will ripped the cinematic hearts away- this is when Dolby Atmos comes in for 3D-lively experience. A bring-along friend Bixby has taken place inside the core of Samsung Note 10+; despite the time and location, Bixby is just one call away and the closest travel buddy. Win Mobile Store No. 46, 48 (A), Shan Kone Street, Myaynigone Township, Yangon 09 7852 22888, 09 443222888 Fujifilm X A3 Fujifilm X A3 is now introduced as an budget-friendly camera with classically designed 24 Megapixel mirrorless camera. As illustrated:selfie-friendly LCD being offered, the X A3 is designed for beginners and social shooters weighing 339 g just a little over the hand-grip size. The battery life lasts longer for 410 shots in total. Availability of touch screen is one of the functions that makes Fujifilm X A3 unique. Each 6MP of blue, green and red provides the full colour image result. Not really aiming to compose the shots on LCD screen, the X A3 has its unfailing feature-a wide angle that absorbs and produces perfect quality of the shots one would take. As mentioned above as one typical budget-friendly camera, it is price-tagged: 455,000 MMK (approx). DCM World No. 189, Maha Bandula Garden Street, Kyauktada Township, Yangon 01377056, 0973176240 New MACBook Pro 13.3 inch The wait is over. New Macbook Pro is now distributed along with distinctive feature -- the Touch ID sensor, in stock with two different colours silver and space grey. Unique figures 2560 by 1600 resolution at 227 pixels and 3 supported scaled resolutions are what makes MacBook Pro different. Force Touch trackpad for precise cursor control is also implemented. Having this highly recyclable aluminum enclosure and the whole package meeting ENERGY STAR requirements, the case has possessed three speakers that provides high dynamic range. Despite the location, Macbook can be as active as up to 30 days of standby time. This device is priced 2,971,600 MMK (approx) and worth using for important purposes and interests. KMD shop ( Computer and Mobile ) No 174-182, Pansodan Road (Middle Block), Kyauktada Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Email: onlineteam2@kmdcomputer.com 09-44455528

TECH TALK Our roundup of some of the best tech to enhance your daily life in Myanmar. Duolingo A family-friendly application from which you could learn vast range of about 20 international languages including German, Spanish, French, Turkish, Swedish and Hebrew, etc. You can be in everyday class without getting bored or going to the visual packed room of large group of students. All those 20 different languages at one platform enables one to improve all main academic skills- starting off from the basic level of alphabets and words. Vocabulary and grammar practises are strongly organized and convincing for all the participants. Duolingo is globally recommended for individuals have passion of building-knowledge of languages. Over the years since 2013 after receiving the Best of Bests education application, Duolingo application is still in use with over 7 million reviews and downloads. Adobe Photoshop Express: Photo Editor Collage Maker This application has been famously known to be effective for media experts and photographers and its figure of installations showing over 100 million users around the world. Recently updated a few new features, a packet of ‘new content’ such as new looks and new text or font styles are being added for enhanced quality. Exact controls of roundness and feathers are instantly fixed with Auto Settings. ‘Shift focus to specific elements’ as clearly stated under the list of distinct features is an advantage of having the application installed. Spot Healing function is a profit where one can be confident with their first or several selfies and portraits.

Khan Academy “Khan Academy is a nonprofit organization with the mission of providing a free, worldclass education for anyone, anywhere.” Now, a new award winning educational application for children of ages from 5 and under is introduced, developed in collaboration with experts at the Stanford Graduate School of Education and have won Parents’ Choice Foundation Gold Award. Titled as 2019’s Best App for Teaching and Learning, the app becomes a powerful tool to keep tracking the pace of our children’s learning ability to get a closest tutor.

MYANMORE magazine #35 September 2019