From a Love of Noodling

Many of Myanmar’s now-entrenched culinary delicacies began as humble local dishes and gathered momentum as more and more people voted with their stomachs. Mohinga may be the champion among the country’s teashop snacks, but Shwe Taung Khao Swe is a close runner-up.

This tasty noodle dish got its name from the town that launched it, Shwe Taung, located in Pyay District. It is made with egg noodles in a coconut milk curry soup, typically served with chicken or pork and garnished with various toppings such as crispy fried onions, lime wedges, and sliced chilies. The dish is flavoured with turmeric and other spices, giving it a rich and savoury flavour.

It is simple to make and quick to prepare, thus its popularity in teashop culture. Each restaurant has its own take but the family behind the Osaka Noodles Restaurant is credited with inventing and putting this comfort food on the map.

It all happened some 50 years ago when the noodle dish was a littleknown snack sold by a restaurateur called Thein Shwe in Shwe Taung. His restaurant only sold Mohinga at first. Like many creative chefs, Thein Shwe played around with this ubiquitous food. He replaced the thick fish broth with a light soup made from chicken and chickpeas. The rice noodles were replaced by wheat noodles. The cooked coconut milk is served separately.

In 1970, Thein Shwe travelled to Osaka, Japan, to participate in its first world fair, Expo '70. He showcased his noodle dish at the fair and won visitors' hearts and tongues. When he returned to his home country, people associated his successful visit to Osaka with his noodles. Hence, the restaurant’s name.

His legacy has been passed down through two more generations. They opened the first restaurant in Yangon in 2000. These days, the family runs two branches in Pazuntaung and North Dagon townships, though variations of this iconic noodle dish are now served at almost every tea shop – Thein Shwe’s culinary legacy.