Truro: a city of renewal

The Drummer by Roy Curtis/Visit Truro

A City of Renewal

Truro Cathedral by Arianna Hammersley-Fenton/Visit Truro

On a mild, sunny day in late autumn, Truro City councillor Bert Biscoe gestures to the mudflats close to the harbour office. “If you were to take a pair of compasses and draw a circle to show how Truro has grown, this,” he declares, “is the place where you would stick the pin.”

Here is the confluence of the three rivers that gave Truro its name - the Kenwyn, the Allen and the lesser-known Glasteinan - and it’s a key point in one of Bert’s guided walking tours. Today, it’s a hotspot for wading birds, undeterred by the noise of nearby traffic thundering along Morlaix Avenue, the A39 ring road.

“The minute gills turned into limbs, and our back legs took all our body weight, it was inevitable Truro would become a town,” Bert continues, with the confidence and passion of someone who has lived in a place for decades. “The very geography of the place says this is a stimulating crossroads.”

He reels off the historic evidence that proves the river has always been at the heart of Truro’s status as a bustling centre of trade, from the Neolithic finds unearthed during the development of Tregurra Park & Ride and recycling centre, to comparatively recent industries, such as the biscuit factory once powered by the River Allen where it splits round an island close to the delta. The factory is no longer there, but the island bears the familiar name of Furniss.

“This was a machine. There was work here,” says Bert, with feeling. “Truro has always been a commercial centre, producing, exporting and importing.” He points to Truro’s position as a stannary town, weighed, stamped and sold – a row of houses was knocked out of Boscawen Street to make room for this activity, resulting in the space we see today before the Coinage Hall.

This month, that space will be lively with Christmas shoppers, especially on Wednesdays when stores remain open until 9pm (see page 34 for more details); while theatre-goers flock to the reopened Hall For Cornwall to see the festive production of Cinderella. visited Lemon Street Market to announce a £23.6m windfall from the government’s Towns Fund, and in September, top cyclists powered through the streets during the Tour of Britain.

Truro is one of 101 towns, and four in Cornwall, selected to bid for the Government’s £3.6 billion Towns Fund. The board hopes the £23.6m awarded will transform Truro into a Connected River City, and a modern economic, cultural and green capital for its residents and the wider community by 2030.

Plans are afoot for the main works to be funded: repurposing empty buildings, reimagining Boscawen Park to include a new ‘winter garden’, and creating an outpost for Falmouth University’s gaming students, which will in turn revitalise the city’s night-time economy. If approved, work will need to be completed by 2026.

Fast-tracked taster projects include the recently opened Moresk Centre on St Clement Street, a community space run collaboratively by a group of local churches; a mobile stage for high-profile events such as the Tour of Britain; Christmas illuminations, including a specially commissioned cathedral for Trafalgar roundabout and 100 reindeer models for shop displays; street market equipment which has been used for one-day markets such as antiques and collectibles, and free of charge for community events; and more benches and cycle racks throughout the city, in a bid to encourage green transport and relieve some of the wider city’s traffic congestion.

It’s heartening to see Truro still vibrant after the ups and downs of the pandemic and the ins and outs of lockdown, and local businesses are doing their best to make up for lost time.

Alun Jones, manager of Truro BID (Business Improvement District), admits trading has been "extremely tough” at times, but he is pleased to see new stores in town, from national chains (Mint Velvet, Crew Clothing) to local independents (Married To The Sea), as well as existing businesses upgrading to larger city centre premises (Regatta) and expanding to open second outlets (Lawrance's bakery, Pollen in the Park, and On The Boards – an interactive social sports bar spin-off from cocktail bar On The Rocks).

Early indicators suggest that despite flirting with online shopping during lockdown, customers are returning to the high street in search of one-to-one interaction on the shop floor. Needless to say, Alun is delighted. “Our message to customers is: shop nice and early in the high street where you can see, smell and touch items before you buy. Don’t rely on online ordering, and don’t leave it until the last minute.”

Truro became a city by default when Edward White Benson, Archbishop of Truro, commissioned the building of the magnificent cathedral. During construction, services were held in a temporary wooden building, including the inaugural Nine Lessons and Carols service, since adopted and made famous by King’s College, Cambridge. It was first performed on Christmas Eve, 1880, and you can hear it twice in its spiritual home this year: on December 23 with the girl choristers, and December 24 with the boys.

You might be surprised to learn that Father Christmas will be in residence in Truro Cathedral’s crypt on Wednesdays, a storytelling and grotto experience with Coppice Theatre. This is the latest in a number of more secular events to make the most of the Cathedral’s cavernous internal space, from vintage and volunteer fairs to fashion shows and gala events, even silent discos. On New Year’s Eve, you can attend a masquerade ball by the organisers of The Great Estate.

This calculated move towards broader events is managed by the cathedral executive, including chief operating officer Sean O’Neill and four members of the clergy. “My role is making sure the cathedral stays here and is sustainable for generations to come,” says Sean. “That means everything from looking after the fabric of the building to getting people through the doors.

“Unlike many cathedrals, we don’t charge an entry fee, but our congregation is diminishing, and with it our donations. We need to find ways of preserving the building without deviating too far from

its primary purpose. While it’s obviously a sacred space, we want it to be a place for everyone of any background to come to. Sometimes, you have to give people a reason to do that.”

Funding from the Cultural Recovery Fund was used to survey people about their feelings towards the cathedral. Many were unaware entry is free, unsure if they were allowed to go in if not from a faith background, and worried about the etiquette – for example, whether children would be shushed for making a noise. “Holding different events here means they put all that aside,” says Sean.

He hopes Santa Claus – who is based on St Nicholas, a fourth-century bishop who liked to give gifts - will attract young families who might not normally venture through the doors. “We’re mindful of the fact that this is a place of worship, and we're looking beyond the commercial to do something that will give people a connection to the true meaning of Christmas,” says Sean. “It’s not just ‘have 30 seconds in Santa’s grotto and come out with a present’. It’s an experience, a respectful journey round the cathedral.”

He adds: “The overwhelming feedback from people going in for the first time is ‘wow’. We hope some will join the congregation; if not, they are engaging with the cathedral as a heritage building, gaining an appreciation of it. It ticks that box, as well as earning us some revenue after a horrible year.”

Back on Boscawen Street, Hall For Cornwall is welcoming theatre-goers after a twoyear closure for major refurbishment. The stage was christened in October with the world premiere of Fisherman’s Friends – The Musical, a riotous performance based on the fictional film (itself inspired by the true story of the Port Isaac shanty singers). It was a co-production by the theatre’s new in-house company, Cornwall Playhouse, as is the current pantomime.

The refurb was the culmination of a 10-year project by chief executive and creative director Julien Boast, who was personally invested and very hands-on, right down to the choice of soft furnishings. “Opening a brand-new theatre with a brand-new show – I must have been slightly crazy,” he laughs, adding: “My God, haven’t we missed live theatre?”

Initial works concentrated on reclaiming the footprint of the building, which has served as a cattle market, a prison, a magistrate’s court and a bank during its 175-year lifespan, often adapting to changing times. Some fascinating features had been hidden for decades or more by previous “improvements”; a panel dating back to the 17th century is now in pride of place at the rear entrance. This space was latterly used as a flea market, but would often lie empty of an evening, a mere thoroughfare to the back door. Now, it houses a swanky bar, achingly beautiful arches and 1930s-style terrazzo flooring.

Inside the auditorium is all oak and concrete polished floors. Where there were once stalls and simple sloping seating, there are now proper dress and upper circles. Seats are covered with fabric in a design based on Cornish granite: grey, with flecks of yellow to represent lichen. No two are the same.

A bigger auditorium means bigger productions: Everyone’s Talking About Jamie and We Will Rock You are both shows that would have struggled to pay for themselves with the previous full-house figures. “It’s good for the high street,” adds Julien. “People will come for the shows, then shop here, eat here.”

Outside the theatre’s Lemon Quay entrance, Tim Shaw’s sculpture The Drummer has been restored to its rightful place, having taken a holiday at the Eden Project during construction. The 15ft sculpture contains both Cornish tin and copper, and represents Cornish identity, symbolising a place “where the drum beats differently”.

Work began in 1926 to cover over Lemon Quay, and when the ring road was built in the 1960s, the port was well and truly sliced off from the city centre. An inelegant car park for decades, the expansive piazza we now know was created in the early 2000s. The old quay walls and river are still there under the tarmac, and the River Kenwyn appears at either end: around the Compton Castle, and down the side of Mannings. sailing ships under construction, sailors running hither and thither. The Truro Loops project is a long-held community ambition to reconnect the city to its waterfront. Its six “loops”, or circular trails, take in the city centre, Boscawen Park and Newham, as well as Moresk Forest near Malpas village - according to legend, doomed lovers Tristan and Iseult crossed the river here to escape Iseult’s husband, King Mark.

Thanks to a recent cash injection of more than £600,000 from the England European Regional Development Fund, resurfacing work is imminent on the disused Newham railway between Gas Hill and County Hall, now a trail for walkers and cyclists.

In April, a business case will be put forward for the flagship development that kicked off the project four years ago: a footbridge linking Boscawen Park with Lighterage Quay on the opposite bank of the Truro River, creating an attractive circuit and linking industrial Newham with recreational facilities. Funding is already earmarked as part of the Town Fund, and if successful, the bridge is scheduled to be built by 2025. There are loftier ambitions for a second bridge between Garras Wharf and Malpas Road, enabling pedestrians to avoid busy Morlaix Avenue.

“Truro turned its back on the port for a long time,” says Trish Hawes of architectural practice Mei Loci. “The project stemmed from the idea of the bridge creating the first loop, reclaiming the river as part of the city and giving people access again. Much of the work in this early phase - resurfacing muddy tracks and improving signage - is about making better what already exists in the hope of encouraging more people to use the existing infrastructure."

“There are so many beautiful areas around Truro. It’s about making it easier for people to get to those from the city centre, on foot or by bike, and enabling the people in those places to come in, using safe networks. Green spaces are so important for health and wellbeing.”

Sitting overlooking the harbour with Bert, watching the wading birds feed, it’s hard to disagree. l

By Kirstie Newton

War memorial in Boscawen Street, by Charles Francis

Shop ‘til you drop Wednesday is late-night shopping day, with traffic-free streets from 3pm and stores open until 9pm. Look out for largescale light projections onto buildings in Boscawen Street and River Street, and a sparkly reindeer trail in shop windows. Make sure you explore the whole town, including the narrow opes and peripheral streets, for Truro’s independent traders – for example, Bishop Philpott’s boutique and Tugboat Tea in New Bridge Street, The Original Art Shop in Nalder’s Court and Bread & Butter in River Street. On Saturdays, the city centre is pedestrianised all day with entertainment, street food and drink in Boscawen Street.

Discover local traders The BIG Christmas Market takes over Lemon Quay from Wednesday to Sunday until December 20, then daily until 2pm on Christmas Eve. This is where you can find a selection of the finest local food, drink, arts and crafts.

Meet Father Christmas Santa’s grotto can be found on selected dates in Truro Cathedral’s crypt. Let his elves lead you there, courtesy of Coppice Theatre. Walk around the cathedral and hear the stories of James Bubb, the first Clerk of Works of Truro Cathedral in the 1800s, and the tale of the Cathedral Mouse, wishing it could sing with the children in the choir. To book tickets, visit www.coppicetheatre.co.uk

Sing some carols Hear the cathedral choir in all its splendour on Saturday, December 18. The programme for A Babe Is Born will include familiar favourites like Deck The Halls and See, Amid The Winter’s Snow alongside modern classics such as The Lamb. Nine Lessons and Carols takes place on December 23 and 24, and all are welcome for the Christmas morning service (Eucharist) at 10am on Christmas Day.

See a show It isn’t Christmas without some seasonal theatre. Oh no, it isn’t! Pop into the newly refurbished Hall For Cornwall, to see its home-grown production of Cinderella. www.hallforcornwall.co.uk Or for something a little more anarchic, see Near-ta Theatre’s "Christmas. Time." for a comedic vision of the festive season in prison, at The Alverton on December 27. neartatheatre.co.uk

Visit Victoria Gardens Marvel at the static light display, while Coppice Theatre’s new walkabout show, Jack Frost 5: Lost in Time, happens here after dark on Wednesdays December 15 and 22. Dressing up as your favourite winter character is also encouraged! Booking essential at www.coppicetheatre.co.uk

Stop for refreshments Truro is awash with quality coffee shops, including Café Uneeka in Boscawen Street. Take the weight off your feet with an Italian pastry (naughty!), and don’t forget to browse the gifts downstairs before you leave (and their Uneeka.home store in City Road). Alternatively, push the boat out with the Alverton’s Christmas afternoon tea, all red and gold and demanding to be accompanied by a glass of fizz, dahling. thealverton.co.uk

Catch a gig The Old Bakery in Malpas Road is arguably Truro’s funkiest venue. December dates include folk musician Beans on Toast (December 10) and a Big Christmas Night Out with The Voice winner Molly Hocking and her new band (December 16). www.oldbakerystudios.co.uk/whatson

Explore the countryside Truro is surrounded by verdant landscapes that are worth visiting. The National Trust property of Trelissick is a stone’s throw away, with excellent woodland walking and a lovely courtyard with a café, secondhand bookshop and the Cornwall Craft Association gallery, all free to enter.

The Original Art Shop is a beautiful working Art and Framing Gallery, set in the heart of Truro. The owner and in-house Artist Julieann Kinley has over 20 years of experience of professional picture framing and art restoration. The Gallery invites new artists to exhibit their beautiful work carefully selected by Julieann, to reflect the diversity of talent around Cornwall. We currently display bespoke resin tables and acrylic flow work by local artists. We try to exhibit at least four times a year, featuring new artists and capturing local talent. We also display silver jewellery, sculpture and unique wildlife originals. The Original Art Shop, 4 Nalders Court, Truro TR1 2XH Bespoke Framing studio above the main gallery open 9.30am-5pm Monday to Saturday and uses premium quality materials. www.original-artshop.co.uk Sharon and Katie, the mother and daughter team behind Bishop Phillpott carefully curate their collections to bring the ultimate in luxury and style to the heart of Cornwall. Based on New Bridge Street, their beautiful boutique brings you collections from well-loved established brands including Paul Smith, Weekend by MaxMara, Marc Cain, American Vintage and Paige as well as a range of exclusive and exciting independent labels. The boutique is full of special pieces to treasure, from stunning cashmere and luxurious basics to those pieces for special occasions or simply a wardrobe refresh. Bishop Phillpott, New Bridge House, 24 New Bridge Street, Truro, TR1 2AA T: 01872 261750 • E: info@bishopphillpott.co.uk • W: www.bishopphillpott.co.uk