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Weekend Away A Trip Down Helford River

Whilst we’re all anxiously waiting for the time when we can travel safely once again, a brief moment of escapism can be found delving into the histories and highlights of some of our favourite Cornish haunts. Here, we take a look at some of the Helford River’s most idyllic hotspots.

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The unspoilt magic of the Helford River is no secret to the people of Cornwall. This bustling estuary of deep-set valleys and rich waters offers a sense of peace even on the brightest of summer days, and with 50 miles worth of secluded coves this small slice of Cornwall has a lot to offer.

With its placid waters and sheltered scenery, it’s no surprise that Helford River is popular with wild swimming and a favourite local haunt for a dip has to be Grebe Beach. There’s a wild and quiet atmosphere about Grebe, with its surrounding woodland and trees set into the steep banks. It’s also a popular place for families and the ideal spot for an outdoor picnic or post-wild swim breakfast. Next to Grebe beach is the hamlet of Durgan and as well as the mirage of wading birds and picture perfect cottages, you’ll also find Glendurgan Gardens. During its opening season, this stunning valley garden is bursting with exotic flora and fauna, with olive groves, apple orchards, cherry orchards and the impressive 190 year old Tulip Tree, known proudly as the Grandfather of Glendurgan’s notable tree collection.

Also on the river’s northern banks is the small village of Helford Passage. Boasting a small, perfectly formed beach, a cluster of cottages and the renowned riverside pub The Ferry Boat Inn, where you can get a taste of everything from freshly caught seafood to locally crafted spirits, Helford Passage is the perfect pit stop on the north side for those wanting a day of riverside relaxation. It's gradually gaining a reputation as a hive of pioneering produce when it comes to the local tipple, with award-winning gin Monterey from Helford River Distillery scooping up Gold at the 2020 International Wine and Spirit Competition and Mainbrace, a delicious seafaring inspired rum launched at the Ferry Boat in 2019, which has since gone on to win Silver in the Gold Rum Super Premium category at the Rum & Cachaca Masters competition and Bronze at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition of 2020. Of course, sampling the local delicacies is just part of what’s on offer here. There’s also paddle boarding, river boating and kayaking opportunities, giving avid explorers the chance to delve deeper into the river’s hidden gems through the river’s charming creeks, some more famous than others.

Across the river, Helford Village resides on the south banks of the river. Renowned for its picturesque cottages and thatched roof pub, the Shipwrights, traditional village life is well kept in this small knit community. Once a port popular with smugglers, since then Helford’s notoriety has transformed into an inspirational haunt for artists and authors alike. The village offers an opportune circular walk around the iconic Frenchman’s Creek, the beautiful setting featured in Daphne Du Maurier’s novel of the same name. In more recent years, the creek became the subject of contemporary landscape painter Kurt Jackson’s work, culminating in his exhibition titled Frenchman’s Creek, held at the Jackson Foundation Gallery in St Just. There are plenty more walks, some a little quieter than others, so be sure to do a little research. If you’re keen to experience Helford River at its most peaceful and if the trip involves adventure on both sides, then the Helford Ferry is ready and waiting to carry passengers across seven days a week throughout April to October. It’s a service that’s said to have been running since the Middle Ages, providing a vital connection between the river’s communities.

Whether it’s a day spent with the family watching the sail boats go by, an evening with friends over dinner and drinks or a morning walk to soak in the sounds and sights of nature, serenity can be found in every creek and cove amongst this river, a small but sublimely rich member of Cornwall’s many waterways. l

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