A Day At Scilly

As the popularity of staycations soar, competition to find a slice of escapism has become tougher than ever and this is no exception for the Isles of Scilly. With well over 100,000 visitors a year on average, this year like much of Cornwall, Scillies have seen an unprecedented demand. However, in just a day, there’s still plenty you can do to get the most of this subtropical archipelago that has beguiled adventurers for decades.

At 9.30am, the Scillonian III departs from Penzance harbour. From there, it’s a two hour and 45-minute journey across 28 miles of rich, wild Cornish sea to the harbour of St Mary’s, the Isles of Scilly’s largest island. It’s a crossing unlike any other, offering stunning scenes of Cornwall’s West Penwith coastline, from the impressive Logan Rock to the iconic cliffside performance hotspot that is the Minack Theatre. From Land’s End it's onward into the open sea, where the likes of dolphins, seabirds, and even basking sharks may be passing by. As noon approaches, the bright aquamarine waters of Scilly approach. An archipelago comprising five inhabited islands boasting wild heathland, white sandy beaches, subtropical flora and fauna and flocks of wild birds, seal colonies and even the occasional whale and turtle.

St Mary’s As the largest island on Scilly, St Mary’s has plenty of hustle and bustle to keep you entertained for the four hours of Scilly fun you can have before you’re needed back at the harbour to board the Scillonian home. Oozing Cornish charm with chocolate box houses, palm trees, succulents and other forms of warm-thriving plants give the islands a rich, riviera appeal.

To walk around the island itself takes roughly four hours, but if you’re keen to speed things up then the perfect way to explore St Mary’s is by bike, which you can hire for the day. The island is full of cyclefriendly routes, with off road opportunities and even electric bikes available for those who’d like the added help. By bike, you can explore the island’s ancient villages and archaeological discoveries, which date back as far as the Bronze Age, as well as the island’s gorgeous beaches from Hugh Town’s south facing Porthcressa to the north facing Town Beach and Porthmellon. However, if cycling isn’t your preferred experience, there are plenty of other options to get your taste of Scilly.

Nestled in the middle of the island, you’ll find Holy Vale vineyard, a family run winery and vineyard that features locally produced wine alongside a vast collection of wines from across the world. From April to September, the vineyard is open for tours, wine tasting and decadent lobster lunches. It’s the perfect, memorable experience to get a taste of the local produce. Holy Vale is open on weekdays from 12 noon – 4.30pm and by appointment only on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holiday Mondays. The vineyard itself boasts 7,000 vines, planted in 2009 and as expected, booking is essential, so make sure if this is on your Scilly Day Bucket List, you plan in advance.

For a different method of transport if you’re keen to get around, hop in the saddle and take to the trails to explore St Mary’s by horseback. At the St Mary’s Riding centre, Centre, riders get to experience one of the most unique and breathtaking riding experiences in the country. The fully licensed and British Horse Society approved centre offers beginners and experienced riders the chance to explore the coast of St Mary’s, with panoramic views of the island. Journey through pretty bridleways, sandy beaches and even take a paddle on your horse through the shallow waters. An hour ride, with no experience necessary, comes in at £45 per person and £40 for under 16s. A two-hour trek, recommended for experienced riders, is available too, but only outside of peak season. Booking is strongly recommended.

If it’s just a laid-back day of browsing St Mary’s shops, galleries, museums and historical hotspots, there’s plenty to find in the island’s central hub of Hugh Town. Take home a piece of Isles of Scilly fashion at the 49 Degrees store, which has been rolling off Scilly inspired clothing for nearly 50 years. After you’ve worked up an appetite, there are plenty of eateries to suit all tastes, and whether it’s a selection of delicious treats from the Farm Deli or a takeaway lunch from local favourite Dibble and Grub, you’re surrounded by the perfect al fresco setting as you feast with crystal sea views.

Island Hop Whether you’re considering an hour of paddle boarding at St Martins or a wander around the historic gardens of Tresco, travel by boat is common practice amongst the Scilly Isles. Depending on the tides and wind, travel to Tresco from St Mary’s can take as little as 20 minutes, however the jet powered boats can do it in under 10 minutes. For St Martin’s it’s a little longer at around 25 minutes and for St Agnes, roughly 15 minutes. It’s always good to check close to the time of your day trip for accurate timetables and weather conditions. Whichever you choose, each island offers its own unique quality.

ISLES OF SCILLY TRAVEL Of course there are other ways to explore Scilly and whilst these travel methods are more costly, they allow for longer times spent on the island.

Day Trip Return from Land’s End Skybus to St Mary’s – From £125 per person.

Day Trip Return Fly + Sale – From £84pp, fly from Land’s End to St Mary’s, and sail back to Penzance.

Penzance Helicopters: Fly by helicopter from Penzance to St Mary’s and Tresco with Penzance Helicopters. For spontaneous adventurers, a LastMinute Daytrip Fare is £129pp return, bookable within 24 hours of departure by telephone only and subject to availability. For those who like to plan, the Advance Daytrip Fare is £185pp return.

To find out more, visit www.penzancehelicopters.co.uk

St Agnes Unspoilt and unequivocally tranquil, Scilly’s most southerly isle of St Agnes is barely a mile long. At low tide it’s joined by its island neighbour Gugh via a sand bar and offers a magical escapist retreat for those completely content with the simple pleasures of the outdoors. Amongst the notable rock formations and beaches filled with seashells and remnant treasures of shipwrecks, the island is home to 82 people, with working farms, and a very picturesque lighthouse. While away an hour or two exploring the coastline before rewarding yourself with a well earned drink at the island’s pub, The Turk’s Head or a delicious cream tea at Coastguards Café. Alternatively, if you’re looking to pack as much as possible in a few hours, there’s also Westward Farm, where you’ll find the Isle of Scilly’s only licensed distillery producing premium gin, cyder and apple juice as well as their shop ’28 Miles’ which stocks a selection of essential oils, soaps and toiletries made from plants grown and used on the island itself.

Tresco One of Scillies' greater known features is the island of Tresco, a small sanctuary of subtropical luxury. The island was purchased by wealthy merchant banker Augustus Smith during the 1830s from the Duchy of Cornwall and has been in the family ever since, currently owned by the DorrienSmiths. The island boasts its own heliport, but what it is most notably renowned for is its extensive gardens. Spanning across the ruins of a medieval monastery, Tresco Abbey Gardens offer 17 acres of plants, trees and flowers from all over the world that thrive in Tresco’s mild climate, as well as a scurry of red squirrels which were introduced in both 2012 and 2013. Accompanying the gardens is the Isles of Scilly homage to its reputation as an archipelago for shipwrecks. Over 900 shipwrecks have been found across the Scillies and many are remembered at Valhalla Museum, located within the gardens. Containing over 30 figureheads as well as name boards and other decorative carvings, dating as far back at the 17th Century.

Bryher Looking across to Tresco is the sheltered eastern shore island of Bryher, Scilly’s smallest inhabited island. Its size makes it easy to walk around and accessible for most people and holds a wealth of history and inspiration amongst its rugged terrain. Inspiration for the Michael Morpurgo novel ‘Why the Whales Came’, it’s easy to see why this island draws in artists and authors, with its rocky coves and small granite hills. For a traditional pub lunch, Fraggle Rock Bar is on hand, whilst Vine Café offers an atmospheric step back in time with homemade food in a cosy setting. Those looking for a luxurious experience can head over to award-winning hotel Hell Bay, for a lunch overlooking the vast expanse of the Atlantic. If you’re still keen for some water action, there are also kayaking and standup paddle boarding opportunities.

St Martin’s Known for its gloriously white sand, St Martin’s boasts some of the finest beaches in the Atlantic. It’s easy to spot this island, thanks to its brightly coloured red and white striped daymark, erected in 1683 by Thomas Ekins on the highest point of the island and the second highest post on the whole of the Scilly Isles. As the northernmost island with a population of roughly 120 people, St Martin’s has a diverse and creative community with a number of eateries for lunches, cream teas and light snacks, with a heavy focus on hyper local produce, fresh and home-made. Visit St Martin’s Vineyard and Winery for a taste of one of the smallest and most southerly vineyards in the UK or head to the St Martin’s Observatory for some deep sky viewing. The island is also home to renowned jeweller Fay Page, whose open studio is a treasure trove of stunning jewellery and beachcomber finds, where you can find your own special piece of Scilly to take home with you.

When the time comes to return home, it’s back to the harbour at St Mary’s for 4pm to board the Scillonian for your trip home and whether you’ve spent your afternoon lunching on Bryher, flower spotting at Tresco, jewellery shopping at St Martin’s, sipping a pint at St Agnes or cycling at St Mary’s, it’s a glimpse of island life packed with adventure that still allows you to go home to bed afterwards. l

From just £30 per person, plan your day trip via the Scillonian Ferry and chosen adventures at www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk