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Scenic ferry rides With Elizabeth Dale
WATER WORLD
Elizabeth Dale explores Cornwall by boat
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Exploring Cornwall from the water not only enables you to venture into some of its more hidden corners, but also offers a totally different perspective on our wonderful coastlines and waterways. As well as guided boat tours and wildlife watching trips, numerous ferries criss-cross Cornwall’s rivers and estuaries on routes that have been in use for hundreds of years. It makes for an exciting and inexpensive day out.
Falmouth Ferries Reputedly the third deepest natural harbour in the world, Falmouth has attracted global shipping for hundreds of years. Each summer, the bay becomes a destination for international cruise ships and an anchorage for hundreds of bobbing yachts.
You, too, can take to the water on one of Falmouth’s many ferries. A brilliant network of boat routes, all leaving from the Prince of Wales Pier, helps you to experience the beautiful Fal River and the Carrick Roads in a way that is just not possible on land.
The longest ferry ride is from Falmouth to Truro, on selected dates at high tide. With a journey time of nearly one hour, you can relax and watch the deeply wooded banks of the river slide by, passing smugglers’ cottages, mussel farms and hidden country houses, including the National Trust property of Trelissick with its beautiful gardens and parklands. A more regular service runs several times daily between Falmouth and Trelissick.
Alternatively, the St Mawes ferry sails the 2.8 miles across the harbour, treating you to expansive views of the docks and the twin Tudor castles at Pendennis and St Mawes, before arriving at the idyllic village on the Roseland Peninsula. From here you can either enjoy the pretty waterside community of St Mawes, or jump aboard another ferry (summer months only) to take you across the creek to Place. From here, there are beautiful walks to the lighthouse on St Anthony Head and sheltered beaches ideal for swimming.
Find out more: www.falriver.co.uk
Mevagissey to Fowey In the warmer months between April and October, this little ferry runs between two of Cornwall’s loveliest south coast fishing ports. Both are working harbours and each has plenty to offer visitors - beyond the obligatory ice cream and cream teas, of course! There are wonderful beaches within easy walking distance of both; Mevagissey has its own mini-aquarium and museum, while Fowey is famed for its connections to the writer Daphne du Maurier. You can start your ferry trip in either harbour and the journey takes you along the picturesque coast for 40 minutes, with glorious views of the beaches and headlands around St Austell Bay and beyond.
At Fowey, you can continue your ferry adventures by taking the short hop across the water to either Polruan or Bodinnick on one of the boats that crosses the estuary. From either village, the walking is wonderful and the views over the river are well worth the effort - plus both have pubs for those in need of refreshment.
Find out more: www.mevagissey-ferries.co.uk
The Helford River It is thought that there has been a ferry crossing at Helford Passage for more than 1,000 years, taking passengers to and from the Lizard. This ferry still runs today, but you can also explore the whole of the Helford River on a guided boat ride.
As large swathes of the banks of the Helford are still privately owned, the only way to see it is from the water. The tidal part runs for roughly five miles, and a 90-minute trip with Helford River Boats takes in as much as possible of the river and its seven creeks. Your guide will also entertain you with some of the area’s fascinating history as you explore the old smuggler’s haunts,
forgotten quays and hidden waterways. There is nothing quite like floating into the serene waters of Frenchman’s Creek with the only sound the cry of the birds nesting in the ancient overhanging oaks.
Find out more: www.helfordriverboats.co.uk
Cawsand to Plymouth Known for its white sandy beaches and dramatic coastal scenery, the Rame Peninsula is one of the most beautiful and secluded regions of Cornwall. Nestled beneath high hills, the twin coastal villages of Cawsand and Kingsand once straddled the Devon and Cornwall border and were famed for smuggling. These days they offer cosy pubs, tasty fish and chips and excellent walking opportunities, including nearby Mount Edgcumbe Country Park which covers 885 acres of rolling countryside.
From Easter to October it is possible to take a ferry ride from Cawsand along the coast to the Barbican in Plymouth. The 30-minute trip provides breathtaking views along miles of unspoilt coast. Spot the 14th century Rame Head Chapel and the elegant ruin of Mount Edgcumbe folly before turning towards the historic defences of Plymouth Sound. The Wilder Side of Padstow The rougher seas of the north coast of Cornwall means that ferries are less common, but the fishing port of Padstow provides alternatives for those feeling a little more adventurous. The Rock ferry may only take about 10 minutes to cross the River Camel, but it is well worth it for the scenic views and delightful beaches.
But for a longer, more memorable experience, book a wildlife watching safari along the wild north coast. Spend a few hours at sea in the hope of spotting seals, dolphins, porpoises, basking sharks and even whales, as well as a myriad of seabirds along the way. These safaris are both educational and exciting, introducing you to the diversity of the Cornish marine environment.
Find out more: www.padstowsealifesafaris.co.uk
Looe to Polperro There are lots of choices for boat trips from the pretty harbour town of Looe, from shark fishing excursions to coastal cruises and wildlife watching tours. But for those in search of something a bit different, a trip to Polperro in a glass-bottomed boat is a great option.
Experience amazing scenery both above and below the water before arriving in Polperro, where you can while away a couple of hours exploring Cornwall’s most infamous smuggling village, with its impossibly quaint harbour and narrow streets lined with ancient cottages. Then it’s time to return to Looe. The journey takes 45 minutes each way, and is tide dependent.
Find out more: www.welcometolooe.com
Best of the Rest • Take a boat over to Looe Island, an idyllic private nature reserve. www.cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk
• The Flushing Ferry from Falmouth takes you to this often-overlooked village, with walks to Mylor and the famous Pandora Inn. www.falriver.co.uk
• Explore the history of Falmouth on one of the harbour tours.
• Hop on the King Harry Ferry near Trelissick – one of only five chain ferries in England (you can tick another one off in Torpoint). www.falriver.co.uk
• The Cremyll Ferry takes foot passengers only from Mount Edgcumbe to Plymouth’s Stonehouse district, close to the Royal William Yard. www.plymouthboattrips.co.uk l