Reykjavík guide CHRISTMAS
HOLIDAY
OPENING HOURS
DECEMBER’S
CONCERTS & EVENTS
ICELANDIC HOLIDAY TRADITIONS
WINTER TOURS & ACTIVITIES
“Spellbinding! I cannot recommend it enough.”
REYKJAVÍK CHRISTMAS GUIDE 2024
CONTENT LIST
Icelandic Holiday Traditions 6-10 Food, Glorious Food 11-15 Christmas Calendar 17-18 The Yule Lads .................................... 21-26 New Year’s Eve
Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf. Laugavegur 3, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 537-3900
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ICELANDIC CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS
Traditions, old and new, are what make holidays so special. Eating a chocolate Easter egg at Easter or blowing out candles on your birthday are the things that take a celebration from nice to festive. Christmas, being the most important holiday of them all in Iceland, is so laden with traditions that it takes us more than a month to cover them all.
ADVENT
Advent begins on the fourth Sunday before Christmas and marks the official start of the Christmas season. It’s when things start getting magical, with lights shining through the winter
darkness, concerts and celebrations around town, and festive spirits. People decorate their houses, the official city Christmas tree is lit, and the city centre is filled with people attending Christmas events and doing their Christmas shopping.
ADVENT LIGHTS
Come late November, Advent lights, arguably the most popular of the Icelandic Christmas decorations, are omnipresent in most Icelandic homes. There are two types of Advent lights: Advent wreaths with four candles, one for each Sunday of Advent, and the triangle-shaped, seven-candle electric candelabra, which are popular all over Scandinavia.
WINTER SOLSTICE
Icelanders have always considered Christmas to be a festival of lights. This might seem odd as it takes place during the darkest time of the year, but the fact is that Christmas coincides with the winter solstice and we celebrate the fact that in the coming weeks, the days are getting longer, just a few minutes at a time.
CHRISTMAS CAT
Ah, the Christmas Cat. Sounds sweet, right? Snuggly, even. Well, it isn’t. The Christmas Cat is the giant child-eating pet of Grýla, the mother of the 13 Icelandic Yule Lads. It does not even eat children who’ve been naughty, but those who did not get new clothes for Christmas. Better be sure and get some new items of clothing for your loved ones this Christmas! Also, check out the huge, illuminated Christmas Cat on
THE CHRISTMAS BOOK FLOOD
The vast majority of books in Iceland are sold in the lead-up to Christmas. This is known as the Christmas Book Flood. Most people receive at least
one book for Christmas to take to bed on Christmas Eve along with some chocolates. So, at the beginning of November, novels, non-fiction, poetry and short stories are published, and everyone is talking about it. Once Christmas is over and the books have been read, everyone’s a critic, giving their views and opinions on that latest tome and whether it is as good, or better, as the author’s last one.
GIFTS IN SHOES
The 13 Icelandic Yule Lads, though traditionally known for being troublemakers, have picked up a habit
In Iceland, Christmas is a family affair and drinking is not habitual. It comes as no surprise then that the traditional Christmas drink is a non-alcoholic one. A mixture of two sodas produced in Iceland, malt and Appelsín, we’re confident this drink is served in around 98% of Christmas feasts around the country.
CHRISTMAS TREES
Christmas trees in Iceland used to be made of wood and decorated with juniper branches to resemble a real Christmas tree, mostly because there just weren’t that many evergreen trees we could cut down. Today, most Icelanders use real trees, as opposed to artificial ones. The tradition is to decorate them just a day or two before Christmas, on December 23, or even on December 24. They then stay up for the 13 days of Christmas and are taken down, along with all other Christmas decorations, on January 6 –Twelfth Night.
NEW YEAR’S BONFIRES
On New Year’s Eve, bonfires are lit throughout the country to symbolise the burning of the old year. There’s always a really great atmosphere at these brennur, kids with sparklers, happy faces, friends and neighbours mingling, and the heat of the fire mixed with the winter cold. Since the brennur are not always easy for foreign visitors to find, in recent years, tour operators have started organising special tours to get them involved in the fun.
TWELFTH NIGHT
According to folklore, strange and magical things took place on Twelfth Night (January 6) that could be dangerous for humans. Cows started talking and people were warned not to listen to them because their talk would drive them mad, seals shed their skins and walked as men, and elves moved to a new house. People made sure to keep every corner of their house well-lit on Twelfth Night in case the elves would stop by on their way. Today, the tradition lives on in Twelfth Night bonfires where the “elf king and queen” will often make an appearance. Families flock to the bonfires and sing New Year’s songs, often containing lots of references to elves.
NATURALLY FESTIVE
ICELANDIC LAMB IS A PDO CERTIFIED CHRISTMAS ROAST
Icelandic lamb holds a special place in the nation's heart over the holidays, having been a staple of Iceland's Christmas dinner tables for centuries. It's simply an essential part of every Icelandic Christmas feast and a must try during the holidays.
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FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD
Food is central to the Icelandic Christmas experience, and the selection ranges from mouthwatering delicacies to some of the most peculiar-smelling dishes you will ever find. Fermented skate, we’re looking at you. Ignoring the foulsmelling seafood, there’s plenty of delicious food to be had, just try snacking on buttered laufabrauð coupled with a frosty glass of Malt og Appelsín to see what we mean.
THE ESSENTIAL CHRISTMAS DRINK
Iceland’s traditional Christmas drink is a non-alcoholic mixture of the locally produced Malt (malt beer) and Appelsín (orange soda). Each family member tends to have their own opinion on what constitutes the perfect mixture of the two: 50/50 or 60/40, Appelsín first or Malt first? Debates can go on for hours, days or even years. To avoid the stress of figuring out the correct ratio, these days, the drink also comes premixed.
CHRISTMAS MEAL
For centuries, smoked lamb, or hangikjöt, was the traditional gourmet Christmas meal, although this has changed in the last few decades.
Most families tend to stick to one single tradition for their Christmas meal. Popular fare at Christmas includes rjúpa, or rock ptarmigan, and hamborgarhryggur, a glazed rack of ham, traditionally a Danish meal. Also, catching on in the last few years are reindeer, turkey, and even Beef Wellington. A smoked leg of hangikjöt is still enjoyed by many on Christmas Day.
LAUFABRAUÐ
Laufabrauð, literally “leaf bread,” is a round, wafer-thin, deep-fried wheat cake with intricate decorative patterns. They’re delicious served with butter and add a festive touch to Christmas dinner and Christmas parties. During Advent, families and friends often get together to make laufabrauð as cutting
the patterns is delicate and timeconsuming work. Frequently, they will throw their artistic skills into the mix, resulting in some very fine specimens that are considered too pretty to eat and tied up with red ribbons and hung as decorations.
FERMENTED SKATE DAY
Skötuveislur or fermented skate parties are without a doubt one of the more bizarre Icelandic traditions.
Every year on December 23, Icelanders get together and eat skate (the fish) that has been sitting in a closed container and allowed to ferment for a month or more. By that time, it has a smell that will clear your sinuses from about a mile away. The main headache is how to get the smell out of your house before the bells start ringing in Christmas. As a result, many people choose to partake of this delicacy in a restaurant, or alternatively, cook it in the garage or even outdoors. Predictably, not everyone is partial to this tradition.
CHRISTMAS BUFFET
One of the unshakable traditions of Advent in Iceland is the Christmas buffet. Most restaurants offer them and almost everyone will partake at least once during Advent. These are lavish affairs typically containing dozens of dishes, different types of herring, smoked and cured salmon, reindeer pâté, smoked puffin and much, much more… and that’s just the cold dishes. Hot dishes will normally include the ubiquitous smoked lamb, roast pork with rind, rack of ham,
Tr e at your t a ste buds at t wo h istor ic a l food ha lls: Hlem mur 101 a nd Gra ndi at t he old ha r bour.
HOLIDAY OPENING HOURS
Open every day 11am-11pm (closed 24., 25., 31. Dec 2024 and 1. Jan 2025)
turkey, and more. And let’s not even mention the stacked dessert buffet.
APPLES
Iceland’s holiday traditions include shoes in windows, a child-eating cat, fermented skate, and apples. Of all those things, the apples are actually the easiest to explain. Fruit used to be a luxury item, as they all had to be imported to Iceland. They also arrived in Iceland just before Christmas, so they became a natural part of the Christmas celebrations and many of the older generation still fondly remember receiving a gleaming red apple as a Christmas treat. We can get apples all year round now but there’s still something special about a Christmas apple.
COOKIES
Christmas cookie baking used to be the barometer of domestic excellence in Iceland. It’s still a big thing, throughout the country, Icelandic homemakers work overtime to bake a dizzying number of different cookies – and are not above boasting about it. Baking six sorts normally generates
applause, 12 sorts is regarded with such awe that it is like announcing you just climbed Mount Everest in high heels.
THE ICELANDIC CHRISTMAS CALENDAR
ÞORLÁKSMESSA
(ST. THORLAKUR’S DAY)
DECEMBER 23
Þorláksmessa is the day of Iceland’s patron saint, St Þorlákur. It’s the last day before Christmas is celebrated, so for most people, this is the height of Christmas preparation. It’s the biggest shopping day of the year and many people spend the day getting the last few Christmas gifts. A peculiar Þorláksmessa custom is eating fermented skate. The sinus-clearing aroma and funky flavour of the skate is an acquired taste, but the idea is that it will make the Christmas feast the next day taste even sweeter.
AÐFANGADAGSKVÖLD (CHRISTMAS EVE)
DECEMBER 24
Christmas Eve is the most important night of Christmas celebrations. Christmas officially begins at 6 pm sharp. By that time most of the nation
is washed and dressed in their best clothes (ideally new clothes, to fend off the Christmas Cat) and ready to sit down to Christmas dinner. This is a very intimate and festive evening that Icelanders normally spend only with their nearest and dearest. After dinner, people relocate to the Christmas tree to open presents.
JÓLADAGUR (CHRISTMAS DAY)
DECEMBER 25
As the main feast is already over by the time Christmas Day rolls around, most people spend the day lazing around, reading the newest books they got for Christmas, or visiting the graves of loved ones. It’s also a day for Christmas parties, when people get together with their extended families, eat hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and laufabrauð, and celebrate Christmas together.
ANNAR Í JÓLUM (SECOND DAY OF CHRISTMAS)
DECEMBER 26
Iceland has a public holiday the day after Christmas Day, which is simply called the Second Day of Christmas. It’s pretty much the same as Christmas Day, but this time the Christmas party is with the other side of the family. Also, on the Second Day of Christmas, many people figure they’ve spent quite enough time with their families and duck out of the Christmas party early to go partying.
GAMLÁRSDAGUR (NEW YEAR’S EVE)
DECEMBER 31
New Year’s Eve is a major event on the Icelandic social calendar. The fun begins around 6 pm when most people have a big festive dinner, after which they head out to a bonfire, or brenna, to mingle and socialise. At 10.30 pm, it is time for the eagerly awaited Áramótaskaup (New Year’s Jest) – a 50-minute comedy special on TV. More than 90% of the Icelandic nation watches the Áramótaskaup so the streets are virtually deserted while it is on.
The New Year’s madness starts to build as soon as the final credits roll, and at midnight all hell breaks loose. In Iceland, fireworks are sold unrestricted to the public between Christmas and New Year’s, and this small nation of 370,000 people manages to fire off over 500 tons of fireworks on New Year’s Eve.
ÞRETTÁNDINN (TWELFTH NIGHT)
JANUARY 6
If you didn’t quench your thirst for arson and explosions on New Year’s Eve, don’t worry, just wait until Þrettándinn (Twelfth Night). There’s a lot of superstition regarding Þrettándinn. The last Yule Lad heads back to the mountains, the elves and the hidden people move houses (keep your lights on the whole night so they don’t settle in one of your dark corners), cows speak, and seals shed their skin to walk on land as men. There’s usually a bonfire where people can finish off the last of their fireworks and the kids get a visit from the elf king and queen.
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INTRODUCING THE YULE LADS
Most countries where Christmas is celebrated have their own version of a benevolent person, creature, or thing, that gives children treats around Christmas. Italy has a Christmas Witch, Spain has a present-pooping log, and America and the UK have, of course, Santa Claus. Iceland, however, takes things a little bit further; we have 13 Yule Lads, each with their own definitive character. They live in a cave in an undisclosed location in the mountains with their mother, the formidable Grýla, her wimpy husband, Leppalúði, and the ginormous Christmas Cat.
GRÝLA
Grýla is an Icelandic troll who eats naughty children. She lives in a cave and always has a pot of boiling water at the ready, should she hear of some exceptionally naughty children. Grýla also travels with a large sack for convenient transport of the children she catches. (It should be noted that Icelandic trolls are different from the Norwegian ones and nothing like Internet trolls either. Think large and mountainlike.)
LEPPALÚÐI
Grýla’s third husband is not known for anything much, except for being really lazy. He doesn’t travel like the rest of his family, he just sits around the cave waiting for Grýla to bring him food. His name has become synonymous with being extremely ugly and/or poorly dressed.
CHRISTMAS CAT
It sounds cosy, but the Christmas Cat is actually the sinister sidekick of the ghastly child-eating Grýla. The Christmas Cat lives with her and her wuss of a husband in their cave and children who don’t get a new item of clothing for Christmas end up in its belly. This absolutely does not make any sense but it’s a good excuse to go shopping.
GRÝLA
THE YULE LADS
DRAWINGS BY ELÍN ELÍSABET EINARSDÓTTIR
The Icelandic Yule Lads are the 13 sons of Grýla (the folklore is not really clear on their paternity, as Leppalúði is her third husband). In the Iceland of yore, they were an incredible nuisance and brought grief to the general populace, stealing food and pranking people, whereas today, they’ve morphed into the kinder, gentler Yule Lads who leave gifts in the shoes of
STEKKJASTAUR
STÚFUR
STUB / DEC. 14
STEKKJASTAUR
SHEEP-COTE CLOD / DEC. 12
Due to his affinity for sheep milk, Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among humans, breaking into the sheep pens and trying to suckle the ewes. He is resilient in his efforts despite his disability, his two peg legs that make crawling into the sheep pens challenging.
GILJAGAUR
GULLY GAWK / DEC. 13
Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur is a bit more patient and cunning in his attempts at milk theft. He doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders but waits until the farm workers are distracted before he swoops in and slurps the froth off the fresh milk.
Stúfur is named for his height – or lack thereof. For some reason, he considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a particular delicacy and goes so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.
ÞVÖRUSLEIKIR
SPOON LICKER / DEC. 15
Þvörusleikir is extremely tall and skinny, which might have had some influence on his love for wooden spoons. He waits patiently for the work to be finished in the kitchen before he, quick as a flash, grabs the dirty spoons and licks them.
STÚFUR
POTTASKEFILL
POT LICKER / DEC. 16
Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick the remains from the inside of the pots. His crimes are simple but thought out; he knocks on the door, and when the inhabitants rush to see who it is, he sneaks into the kitchen and cleans out the pots.
ASKASLEIKIR
BOWL LICKER / DEC. 17
In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from lidded wooden bowls called askar. Askasleikir would creep in, hide, and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has too, but keeps his name, for old times’ sake.
HURÐASKELLIR
DOOR SLAMMER / DEC. 18
HURÐASKELLIR
Waking up is never pleasant and being woken by a loud noise such as a door slamming is even less so. For some reason, Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.
SKYRGÁMUR
SKYR GOBBLER / DEC 19TH
For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a dairy product, halfway between cheese and yoghurt. It’s fat-free, high in protein, and delicious. That should explain both Skyrgámur’s size (he’s said to be the size of a bull) and his habit of eating other people’s skyr.
BJÚGNAKRÆKIR
SAUSAGE SWIPER /DEC 20TH
Many of the Yule Lads like to steal food but they’re picky about what they want to take. Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much, he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.
GÁTTAÞEFUR
KETKRÓKUR
MEAT HOOK / DEC 23
It’s obvious that some of the Yule Lads are more industrious and cleverer than others. Ketkrókur, for example, travels around with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys in order to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).
KERTASNÍKIR
CANDLE BEGGAR / DEC 24
One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children. This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days, every kid usually got a nice candle for Christmas and sometimes not much else.
GLUGGAGÆGIR
WINDOW PEEPER / DEC 21
Again, the name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly foodrelated. He only peeps in windows in order to locate food he could possibly steal.
GÁTTAÞEFUR
DOOR SNIFFER / DEC 22
Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is, as so many other Icelanders, partial to laufabrauð and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.
ICELANDIC CHRISTMAS BEERS
For most of the 20th century, beer was banned in Iceland. Since 1989, we’ve been doing our best to catch up and seasonal beers are becoming increasingly popular part of holiday season. The Christmas beers are only available for a limited time. They appear in bars and on Vínbúðin shelves in the beginning of November and disappear again when Christmas decoration go down or when the batch sells out - whichever comes first.
VÍKING JÓLABJÓR
(Víking Christmas beer 5.0%)
The most popular Icelandic Christmas beer. Richer filling and darker colour with a good hint of caramel, coffee, and burnt sugar. The secondary fermentation gives it a dense and soft flavour, great fullness, and good foam. Viking Christmas Beer is relatively light, and you can drink more of it compared to many other Christmas beers, which tend to be a bit heavier and stronger than a traditional lager.
THULE JÓLABJÓR
(Thule Christmas beer 5.2%)
The Thule Christmas beer is renowned for its festive spirit and noticeable presence during the holiday season in Iceland. Connoisseurs eager to sample a variety of Christmas beers often find Thule stands out. Not only does it consistently excel in taste tests, but its pleasing profile also allows for enjoyable, extended drinking sessions. This medium-dark beer boasts a rich, full-bodied experience. Crafted with a blend of Pilsner, caramel, and Munich malts, it also incorporates a hint of licorice. The flavour profile is a harmonious mix of caramel and chocolate, rounded off with a lingering, satisfying licorice aftertaste.
HVÍT JÓL
(White Christmas 5.0%)
EINSTÖK DOPPELBOCK
(Einstök Doppelbock 6.7%)
This beer has possibly scored the highest, on average, of all beers in the country’s Christmas beer tastings over the past years. There’s no need to introduce the Einstök beer to the country. People always want to have a few of these during Christmas. Description: Reddish-brown in colour, complex with a strong aroma of caramel, malt, pine, along with notes of chocolate and citrus. A moderately sweet beer but with a slight bitterness that makes it a good companion to food.
White Christmas captures the true spirit of Icelandic Christmas with a mandarin-orange aroma that will make your taste buds sing Bing Crosby. Stop dreaming about it. Take a sip. A delightful change from the medium-dark and dark Christmas beers that have been predominant in Iceland.
WHAT ARE YOU DOING NEW YEAR’S EVE?
When Christmas Eve has come and gone, you’ve been to all the family parties, eaten all the cookies and opened all the presents, what’s there to look forward to? New Year’s Eve, that’s what. If you are a kid (or a grown-up with a moderate to severe interest in lighting fires), New Year’s Eve can be just as fun as Christmas, especially in Iceland.
A FAMILY AFFAIR (AT FIRST)
New Year’s Eve in Iceland is the party night of the year. This might not be completely clear in the early part of the evening, because the majority of Icelanders get together with family and/or friends, eat something fantastic (turkey has become popular), and watch the annual comedy revue on television. Things only start to get going once they get their hands on some fireworks and start doing their best to blow up the neighbour’s house, just before or around midnight.
COME ON, BABY, LIGHT MY FIRE
There is a reason for our burning desire to set things on fire, as there is an old
superstition that says you have to burn away the old year in order to wake up on New Year’s Day with a clean slate. Just in case the fireworks aren’t enough, we also have a New Year’s Eve bonfire. Since the bonfire promises to burn away the sins of the year gone
by, you can imagine how popular it is. Most towns have one, of varying sizes, Reykjavík has ten. Most of them are lit around 8.30 pm. That’s after dinner, but before the New Year’s Jest (Áramótaskaupið) starts.
ÁRAMÓTASKAUPIÐ IS A BIG DEAL
Just how big of a deal can a comedy special broadcast by the national broadcasting company RÚV be, you ask? Well, in 2002, for example, 95% of the population was watching. This 50-minute comedy special satirising
the year’s most prominent events has been on since 1966, which incidentally is the year RÚV started broadcasting. All conversations in Iceland on New Year’s Day tend to start with a dissection of how funny (or not funny at all) the New Year’s Jest was.
THE PARTY
This might surprise you, but it’s actually not until after midnight that the party gets started. After the fireworks have been lit and hot chocolate has been had with older family members, that’s when people put on their glitter hats, get their confetti bombs ready and head out, drink in one hand, and a lit sparkler in the other. House parties are popular, and downtown Reykjavík quickly starts filling up with eager partygoers. Be sure to put on your party hat and your dancing shoes, you’re going to have a hard time keeping up with the Icelanders.
BUYING FIREWORKS
If you would like to shoot some fireworks at midnight, we have good news, this is allowed in Iceland and everybody does it. Every year, nearly 600 tonnes of fireworks are fired. Fireworks are sold by the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) at 130 locations around the country. These fireworks sales are the main source of funding for ICE-SAR, and proceeds are used to pay for the training of volunteers and equipment necessary for rescue missions. Fireworks are sold four days a year, from December 28 until December 31. If fireworks are not your thing, you can also donate to ICE-SAR directly.
ELVES AND HIDDEN PEOPLE
There’s a fair bit of folklore dedicated to the beginning of the new year. According to tales, this is the night that the elves and hidden people move to a new house, cows speak, and seals leave their seal skin and walk on land as men. While few people have a strong belief in elves and trolls anymore, many people still make sure to leave at least one light on for the whole night, for the hidden people.
CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND MEANS A FLOOD OF BOOKS
The so-called “Christmas Book Flood” (Jólabókaflóðið) refers to the annual publication of new books during the months before Christmas in Iceland. Every November, a list of newly-released books is distributed to Icelandic households for free.
The phenomenon of the “Christmas Book Flood” traces its roots to, on the one hand, Iceland’s centurieslong literary tradition, and, on the other hand, strict currency restrictions during WWII. The restrictions limited the number of imported gifts to Iceland; however, restrictions on imported paper were more lenient than on other products. The result - books became the default Christmas gift.
Foreign translations of Icelandic literature have tripled over the past decade. If you want to get swept up by the Christmas Flood this year, there are many new Icelandic titles to choose from (i.e. that have recently been translated into foreign languages).
CELEBRATING WOMEN
SECRETS OF THE SPRAKKAR: ICELAND’S EXTRAORDINARY WOMEN AND HOW THEY ARE CHANGING THE WORLDELIZA REID
Published in 2022 and written by First Lady of Iceland, Eliza Reid, this continues to be a relevant and popular read. Through research and interviews, Eliza Reid uncovers the captivating stories of fearless women who have left their mark on both Iceland and the world.
NORDIC NOIR OUTSIDE - RAGNAR JÓNASSON
When a deadly snowstorm strikes the Icelandic highland, four friends take shelter in a hunting lodge. What could go wrong? There’s just
something about curling up in the winter months with a good murder mystery. “Outside” is one of the latest translations of Ragnar Jónasson, a modern master of the genre.
ICE AND FIRE THE FIRES
- SIGRÍÐUR HAGALÍN BJÖRNSDÓTTIR
The Reykjanes peninsula wakes up from its 800-year slumber and volcanologist Anna Arnardóttir is caught off guard by an even more powerful force of nature - love. We’d say this is a timely novel because of recent events, but people learning to live around the forces of nature is a story as old as the nation itself.
CHRISTMAS SPIRIT ANIMAL LIFE
- AUÐUR AVA ÓLAFSDÓTTIR
The award-winning author of “Miss Iceland” and “Hotel Silence” spins a yarn about a family of midwives in the runup to Christmas. As a terrible storm heads towards Reykjavík, a woman discovers strange and beautiful recollections on birth, death, and human nature.
THE GOOD SHEPHERD
- GUNNAR GUNNARSSON
Gunnarsson’s novella has sold more than one million copies worldwide and been translated to around 20 languages. Based on a real story, it tells about Benedikt and his search for sheep up in the wilderness during the harshest winter month. The story is simple on the surface but deep and fertile at the same time. Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889-1975) is one of Iceland’s most esteemed writers. His legacy includes more than twenty novels, short stories, plays, poetry and essays.
THE CLASSIC THE FISH CAN SIN – HALLDÓR LAXNESS
Independent People is Halldór’s best-known novel and it is nothing short of a masterpiece, but it’s also a bleak and depressing portrait of a poor farmer’s life complete with domestic violence, class injustice, child labour, and light paedophilia. What we’re saying is that this is no fun summer read. If you think you’re up for it, by all means, go ahead, but for a more palatable taste of Laxness, we recommend picking up The Fish Can Sing, a charming coming-of-age story set in Reykjavík at the turn of the century.
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TOURS & ACTIVITES DURING CHRISTMAS
Winter in Iceland is completely different from summer in Iceland. The waterfalls that looked impressive surrounded by green grass in summer, are an unforgettable sight on a frosty winter morning. And let’s not forget, it’s only during winter that the spectacular northern lights come out to play.
There is something for everyone when it comes to sights to see from Reykjavík in winter. Whether you’re looking for nature and scenery or some thrilling action, it’s all within a day’s reach from the capital.
SAFETY FIRST
Remember that travelling in winter requires a lot more care than travelling in summer, especially because the weather tends to change suddenly. On a perfectly regular Sunday morning, it’s not unusual to experience a hailstorm, followed by blinding sunlight, followed by sleet, followed by a freak blizzard, followed by a complete calm, followed by torrential rain. All within an hour. Be sure to check the forecast before you set out, wear warm clothing, preferably in layers, and consult with the locals, they know how to deal with our temperamental climate.
GLACIER CLIMBING AND GLACIER HIKING
For those who are not afraid of something more physically strenuous, taking a walk on top of a glacier is sure to be a trip to remember. One of the things that make Iceland so unique is the proximity of Reykjavík and other towns to awe-inspiring glaciers. Keep in mind, however, that to explore the glacier, you need to travel with an experienced guide, otherwise, it’s a deadly trap. On christmas.tourdesk. is you’ll find some very interesting glacier walks of various difficulties and lengths. Everyone should be able to find something to fit their needs and physical fitness.
THE SOUTH COAST
The south coast not only has some of Iceland’s most beautiful scenery, but it also has some of Iceland’s most diverse landscapes. It’s no wonder that a tour that takes travellers past striking waterfalls, seemingly endless stretches of volcanic black
sand beaches, and a quaint little local village called Vík, as well as offering people a chance to explore a glacier up close, comes heavily recommended.
TRY FLYING
If you don’t have a lot of time, or if you’re just feeling luxurious, exploring
Iceland from the air is one of the best possible ways to see everything the country has to offer. With no tedious driving between natural wonders, taking a ride in a helicopter or a sightseeing flight is all thrills, all the time. You even get to visit places you can’t really get to unless you’re prepared to hike for hours.
SNOWMOBILING ON A GLACIER
Not all travellers are content just watching the natural wonders Iceland
has to offer from a distance and prefer to get up close and personal instead. For those people, we have only four words: snowmobiling on a glacier.
This is a great opportunity for the adventure-seeking traveller who wants to explore a glacier firsthand. Langjökull (the country’s secondlargest glacier) is only approximately a 2.5-hour drive from the capital and tours run there every day, all year. Once there, you get the chance to see the breathtaking Icelandic interior in a way few people ever experience. You can hop on a snowmobiling tour that can even be coupled with classic day tours such as the ever-popular Golden Circle, allowing you to see all the highlights of Icelandic nature in a single day.
THE AMAZING NORTHERN LIGHTS
The northern lights are a spectacular phenomenon, and although there’s unfortunately never a guarantee you’ll see them on your trip, you can at least
enlist the help of locals who know best. Here are some tips: make sure the sky is dark and clear, try your best to be patient, and since you have to be patient, wear warm clothes.
There are many northern lights tours available on whatson.is, where you can go by boat, bus or even by super jeep. Another thing to think about is making the most of the day by combining a northern lights hunt at night with another activity during the day, such as going on a glacier hike, getting a lobster dinner, or even making a trip of it by driving to the stunning glacial lagoon, Jökulsárlón. That way your time on the tour is always well spent and everybody leaves with a new and exciting experience.
THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour in Iceland, probably because it features some of the most impressive natural phenomena in the country. The first stop is the Geysir geothermal area. Close by is one of Iceland’s most powerful and majestic waterfalls, Gullfoss, the Golden Waterfall. The
Golden Circle tour then comes to an end with a stop at Þingvellir National Park. It’s an area that’s impressive, both historically and geographically as it is the spot where the tectonic plates of Europe and America meet, creating some stunning views. For those who are interested, Þingvellir is also a world-renowned diving site.
HORSEBACK RIDING
The Icelandic horse is a breed unlike any other in the world. It’s been bred in complete isolation since the 11th century, a feat only accomplished
because of Iceland’s isolation. Small and extremely well-tempered, the Icelandic horse is known for its unique gait, the “tölt,” an unusual gait where the horse seems to crouch down and slide over rough landscapes like lava fields. You’ll find a variety of tours on christmas.tourdesk.is for all levels of expertise as well as a perfect opportunity to test-ride the “tölt.”
WHALE WATCHING
Observing the giants of the ocean is a profound experience you really
shouldn’t miss. There are 23 species of whales in the ocean around Iceland, though some are more common than others. The largest whale you might spot is the blue whale – the largest mammal on earth. Even though it’s the middle of the winter, you can still book a whale watching tour straight from Reykjavík with a pickup service right to your hotel. Just make sure you’re dressed warmly and enjoy the ride. Varied tours available on christmas. tourdesk.is. PS if you prefer not to go out to sea, check out the whale museum by the old harbour.
ACTIVITIES IN TOWN
Nature can be beautiful this time of year, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of things to do within the city limits, especially when the weather is acting up. The museums of Reykjavík, both art and history, can be a very rewarding experience for the culturally-minded. After nurturing the mind in the museums, the geothermally-heated swimming pools of Reykjavík can take care of the body with a relaxing soak in the hot tubs. Afterwards, there are several great
fresh locally Icelandic candy. dinner.
Amazing Christmas Delicacies
Fjallkonan is a lively restaurant & pub in the heart of Reykjavík offering a fantastic selection of Icelandic dishes made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Every day leading up to Christmas, we offer:
5 course Christmas lunch menu
Christmas Afternoon Tea from 14:30 to 17:00
8 course Christmas dinner menu
restaurants scattered throughout the centre and plenty of Christmas concerts and other events to keep you occupied.
INTO THE GLACIER
If you’re not content with hiking or driving ON the glacier, why not just go straight into it? The man-made ice
cave in Langjökull is a tunnel through the inside of a glacier, where you can see into a glacial crevasse from the bottom up. On the way there, you get to enjoy the beauty of West Iceland, the highlight probably being Hraunfossar, where the river flows from underneath the edge of a lava field, over red cliffs worn smooth by the water.
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BURN, BABY, BURN
Icelanders discover their inner pyromaniac once New Year’s Eve rolls around. Aside from the tons of fireworks that are blown up every year, Icelanders have the unique tradition of throwing New Year’s bonfires.
The first documented case of a New Year’s Eve bonfire was in 1791 when a group of schoolboys gathered up some old barrels and lit them. They lit the fire on a hill in downtown Reykjavík
which they named Vulcan, in honour of the Roman god of fire. Ever since, the tradition of New Year’s Eve bonfires has spread all over the capital, and the country at large.
They have changed a bit over time though, as the bonfires largely revolved around drunkenness and ruckus in the first years of the tradition. Nowadays it is more a family affair as families gather in a symbolic ritual where the old year is left behind.
There are bonfires taking place all over the capital area and we encourage you to track one down and take part in the tradition.
NEW YEAR’S EVE BONFIRES IN THE CAPITAL AREA
Ægisíða (1) is the bonfire closest to the city centre, right by the seaside. Head over there to get into the mood for the night.
These 10 locations are where the largest bonfires of New Year’s Eve will be placed. The larger bonfires are marked with a larger fire on a map and vice versa. Most of the bonfires
will be lit at 20:30 on New Year’s Eve, except for the bonfire on Úlfarsfell (3) mountain which is lit at 15:00, and the one in Skerjafjörður (2) which is lit at 21:00 following a torch parade.
Fireworks are strictly forbidden due to safety purposes. There is no organised schedule for these events, but people normally gather for some songs and we encourage you to join in. Hum it till you make it!
We use fresh, locallysourced seafood to create delicious dishes
Opening Hours
Monday - Thursday 11:30 - 21:00 Friday - Sunday 11:30 - 22:00
Holiday Opening Hours 23.12 24.12 25.12 26.12 31.12 01.01 11:30 - 22:00 11:30 - 21:00 11:30 - 21:00 17:00 - 21:00 17:00 - 21:00 17:00 - 21:00
REYKJAVÍK CHRISTMAS CITY
Each December, Reykjavík is transformed into a magical Christmas city. There are fun Christmas events involving everything from culture to food, horseback riding to sailing, and singing to shopping all over the city, but some places are even more festive than others. Check out all the festive areas in the city and partake in our holiday joy.
ICE-SKATING AT INGÓLFSTORG SQUARE IN DECEMBER
WHERE: Ingólfstorg – Central Reykjavík
WHEN: Open all weekends until Christmas from 12:00-10:00 PM and the days before Christmas, December 20 - 23, from 10:00 AM-11:00 PM
ADMISSION: 1,590 ISK per person, including ice skates and helmets. Free for children 5 y/o and younger
The telecommunications company Nova has yet again joined forces with the city of Reykjavík to open an ice skating rink on Ingólfstorg square. This year, 100,000 light bulbs will light up the beautiful square. In addition to the Ingólfstorg ice skating rink, a Christmas market will be also located
at Ingólfstorg Square surrounding the ice rink, where both refreshments and merchandise will be for sale.
CHRISTMAS MARKET IN HEIÐMÖRK
WHERE: Elliðavatn, 25 min. drive from downtown Reykjavík
WHEN: Every weekend until December 22 from 12:00-5:00 PM
ADMISSION: Free
FURTHER INFORMATION: www.facebook.com/heidmork/ www.heidmork.is
The annual Crafts & Design Christmas market and the Christmas tree sale in Heiðmörk woods, located on the outskirts of Reykjavík, will be open every weekend until Christmas, from
12:00 to 5:00 PM. The Christmas trees are beautiful and Icelandic-grown but even if you’re not there to get a tree, there’s plenty of activities. You can take a stroll around the arts and crafts market and the kids can watch the campfire and meet the Icelandic Yule Lads. If it gets cold, you can always head to the café for a cup of coffee or a steaming hot chocolate.
CHRISTMAS PROGRAMME AT ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM
WHERE: Árbær Open Air Museum, Kistuhyl, 110 Reykjavík
WHEN: Sunday December 8 and 15 from 1:00 to 4:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,350 ISK, children under 18 and people with disabilities are free
FURTHER INFORMATION: borgarsogusafn.is/en
Immerse yourself in the sights, smells and sounds of a traditional Icelandic Christmas at Árbær Open Air Museum. Visitors, both young and old, will enjoy experiencing the Christmas preparations and the celebration of days gone by with activities including the preparation of traditional Icelandic Christmas food,
and crafts, such as candle making and laufabrauð cutting. Watch out for those playful Yule Lads (traditional Icelandic Santa Clauses) who may peep through the windows or play tricks on guests. Traditional Christmas sweets will be on offer in the general store, hot chocolate at the Museum Café and much more. Free entry for those with a Reykjavík City Card.
HAFNARFJÖRÐUR CHRISTMAS VILLAGE
Where: Hafnarfjörður, 20 min. from downtown Reykjavík with bus no. 1
WHEN: During weekends until Christmas. Open on Fridays from 5:008:00 PM and weekends from 1:00-6:00 PM. December 23 from 1:00 - 9:00 PM.
ADMISSION: Free
Hafnarfjörður Christmas Village has been evolving for years and the whole town centre of Hafnarfjörður becomes one big Christmas Village during Advent. Hafnarfjörður residents and local companies will participate in making this year’s Christmas Village the biggest one yet. As usual, Thorsplan plaza is transformed into a
Hafnarfjörður
Christmas market, there will be plenty of concerts and events, and people can finally indulge in some delicious hot glögg (aka mulled wine).
AUSTURVÖLLUR CHRISTMAS MARKET
WHERE: Austurvöllur, downtown Reykjavík, in front of the parliament building
WHEN: Weekends from 30 November until Christmas from 1:00 - 8:00 PM. December 23 from 2:00 - 11:00 PM.
The Christmas market by Austurvöllur square will have a variety of stalls selling food items, candy, glögg and Christmas related products to help you get into the Christmas mood. The market will also host small events and the yule lads might show up.
CHRISTMAS WITH THE ICELAND SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
WHERE: Harpa, Eldborg hall
WHEN: December 14-15 at 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM
ADMISSION:
FURTHER INFORMATION: en.sinfonia.is
The Iceland Symphony Orchestra’s Christmas concerts have been enormously popular among listeners of all ages. Featuring young musicians, ballet dancers, soloists, the Reykjavík Girls’ Choir, Páll Óskar, Ragnheiður
Gröndal, and Kolbrún Völkudóttir, the performances promise Yuletide joy. Barbara the Clown is the host and requests her favourite Christmas song from the orchestra, turning the audience into a festive choir. The conductor is Hjörtur Páll Eggertsson. The Reykjanesbær Music School Bell Choir sets the festive tone with carols before and after the concert at Hörpuhorn. This concert is for the inner Christmas child in us all.
CHRISTMAS AT THE NORDIC HOUSE
WHERE: Nordic House, just outside of the city centre by the University of Iceland
WHEN: First three weekends of Advent ADMISSION: Free entry FURTHER INFORMATION: www.nordichouse.is
There’s a lot going on at the Nordic House this December. The Advent programme features various events throughout the entire festive season, like family workshops, a puppet theatre, quiz nights and Christmas story nights for adults and children! There is also a Christmas giftswapping market, sustainable Christmas crafting, and the annual book sale to discover. This year’s program is characterised by all things cosy, recycled and togetherness. Here’s to a hygge Christmas time at the Nordic House!
CHRISTMAS SHOPPING
The centre of Reykjavík hosts numerous boutiques where you will most certainly find something unique. While the main shopping streets are Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur, make sure you don’t forget the small shops that are hidden in the old harbour district. Also, visit a Christmas market or two for handcrafted Christmas ornaments and local specialities.
If you’re looking for unique, one-of-akind items to take back as Christmas presents, why not check out the work of Icelandic designers? Design shops in the city centre are filled to the brim with the innovative design Iceland is known for. Read our tips on where to find the perfect Christmas presents for your loved ones.
WOOLLEN GARMENTS
Icelanders know that the secret to keeping warm is Icelandic wool. Not only is it warm, but it looks pretty darn good as well. There are all sorts of woollen products available, everything from simple hats and mittens to beautiful scarves and blankets. The
most common one, however, is the Lopapeysa, the Icelandic woollen sweater. Try the Farmer’s Market products for great design, but if you’re looking for something more classic, nothing beats the sweaters of The Icelandic Handknitting Association on Skólavörðustígur.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Contrary to what you might believe, it rarely gets super cold here – the temperature seldomly drops below -3°C (26°F). On the other hand, the weather is always changing and at any given moment, you have to be ready to brave sub-zero temperatures, stormlevel winds, rain, sleet, snow, or hail.
That’s why Iceland has such a good selection of high-quality outerwear, like Icewear or 66 North. Get yourself a parka of Icelandic design and as god is my witness, you’ll never go cold again!
HEALTH AND BEAUTY
Herbs gathered in Iceland’s pristine nature are popular ingredients in Icelandic skincare products. Sóley uses handpicked Icelandic herbs from the Laugarvatn region in their products, and Villimey uses herbs picked in the remote Westfjords. Check out the products of the Blue Lagoon, in which skin-healing silica is used. BIOEFFECT’s anti-wrinkle EGF serum, made with natural ingredients, is a popular choice too. And what do you think of skincare made with Icelandic seaweed? Taramar, sold in most pharmacies, uses this as the main ingredient.
ICELANDIC JEWELLERY
Iceland’s arts-and-crafts scene is proof that the colder the climate, the more creative the people. Icelandic jewellery designers each have their
own distinctive flair - some turning out bold, raw, chunky pieces, while others prefer ornaments as delicate and fragile as flowers in a black Icelandic desert. Check out Hildur Hafstein, Mjöll and Aurum. Whatever your personal preference, you are sure to find something to your taste.
CERAMICS
You will find a surprising amount of Icelandic ceramic galleries in downtown Reykjavík. Just walk down
Meet some of Iceland’s finest designers
Epal Skeifan 6 / Epal Kringlan / Epal Smáralind / Epal Laugavegi 7
Skólavörðustígur from Hallgrimskirkja church and stop by galleries along the way.
Browse through a wide selection of pots, dishes, cups, and bowls, all made with Icelandic clay. Check out Inga Elín’s beautifully painted coffee cups, Kirsuberjatréð’s abstract creations, and the crafts of Kogga Caramics and Kaolin.
LOCAL SWEETS
Apart from liquorice, Icelanders love chocolate. Surprisingly, despite its remote northern location, there’s really good chocolate to be found in Iceland. Check out the Omnom factory in the old harbour district in Reykjavík. Their seasonal Christmas bars are not only delicious, but their packaging is also a feast for the eyes.
FASHION AND STYLE
What better present to take home than a unique fashion item that will turn heads wherever you go? Try stopping at Hildur Yeoman’s, SvartbySvart and Friends, Aftur, Kiosk, Kormákur and
Húrra Reykjavík offer a great selection eat those who did not get new clothing
SHOPPING SCHEDULE
LAUGAVEGUR & THE DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK AREA
December 16-22 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 23 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 10:00 AM - 2:00 PM
December 25-26 CLOSED
December 31 .......... 10:00 AM - 2:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
SMÁRALIND
December 16-23 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 10:00 AM - 01:00 PM
December 25-26 CLOSED
December 31 10:00 AM - 01:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
KRINGLAN
December 16-23 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 10:00 AM - 01:00 PM
December 25-26 CLOSED
Weekends 11:00 AM - 5:00 PM
December 23 11:00 AM - 5:00 PM
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
Don’t forget, when you buy merchandise that costs 12,000 ISK or more, you can get 15% off. Claim your refund at Keflavik Intl. Airport.
December 31 10:00 AM - 01:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
Please note that information about opening hours is subject to change. For more information check out our website whatson.is
Happy h idays!
Enjoy our six-course Christmas menu and get into the Icelandic holiday spirit.
RESTAURANT OPENINGS DURING CHRISTMAS
Please note that information about opening hours is subject to change.
APÓTEK RESTAURANT
December 23 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 26 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
BASTARD BREW AND FOOD
December 23 12:00 PM - 01:00 AM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 12:00 PM - 01:00 AM
December 31 12:00 PM - 01:00 AM
January 1 12:00 PM - 01:00 AM
BJÓRGARÐURINN - THE BEERGARDEN
December 23 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
December 24 ............................................................................................. 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
December 25 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
December 26 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
December 31 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
January 1 12:00 PM - 11:00 AM
December 23 06:30 AM - 05:00 PM
December 24 ............................................................................................. 08:00 AM - 02:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 CLOSED
December 31 ............................................................................................. 08:00 AM - 02:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
BRÚT RESTAURANT
December 23 11:30 AM - 02:00 PM and 05:30 PM - 09:45 PM
December 24 05:30 PM - 09:00 PM
December 25 05:30 PM - 09:00 PM
December 26 05:30 PM - 09:00 PM
December 31 ............................................................................................. 05:30 PM - 09:00 PM
January 1 05:30 PM - 09:00 PM
BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS
December 23 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
CAFÉ LOKI
December 23 08:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 08:00 AM - 04:00 PM
December 25 ............................................................................................. 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 26 08:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 31 08:00 AM - 10:00 PM
January 1 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
DUCK & ROSE
December 23 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 31 CLOSED
January 1 ..................................................................................................... 05:00 PM - 11:00 PM
FISKFÉLAGIÐ
December 23 05:00 PM - 11:30 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 10:30 PM
December 31 05:00 PM - 09:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 10:30 PM
FISKMARKAÐURINN / FISH MARKET
December 23 ............................................ 11:30 AM - 01:30 PM and 05:00 PM - 09:30 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 09:30 PM
December 31 ............................................05:00 PM - 08:30 PM kitchen (house 11:00 PM)
January 1 05:00 PM - 09:30 PM
FJALLKONAN
December 23 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 31 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 11:00 PM
FORRÉTTABARINN
December 23 02:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 ......................................................................................................................CLOSED
December 26 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 open - fully booked
January 1 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
HARD ROCK CAFÉ
December 23 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 12:00 PM - 08:00 PM
December 25 ............................................................................................. 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 26 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 12:00 PM - 08:00 PM
January 1 ..................................................................................................... 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
HAUST RESTAURANT
December 23 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
December 24 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
December 25 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
December 26 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
December 31 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
January 1 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM & 06:00 PM - 09:00 PM
HIMALAYAN SPICE RESTAURANT
December 23 ............................................................................................. 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 04:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
HORNIÐ
December 23 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 ............................................................................................. 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 31/ January 1 CLOSED
December 23 11:30 AM - 01:00 PM
December 24 ......................................................................................................................CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 ............................................................................................. 11:00 AM - 09:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 10:00 AM
JÓMFRÚIN
December 23 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM (fully booked)
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 31 ............................................................................................. 11:00 AM - 02:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
JÖRGENSEN KITCHEN & BAR
December 23 11:30 AM - 09:45 PM
December 24 12:00 PM - 02:00 PM and 06:00 PM - 09:45 PM
December 25 12:00 PM - 02:00 PM and 06:00 PM - 09:45 PM
December 26 11:30 AM - 09:45 PM
December 31 12:00 PM - 02:00 PM and 06:00 PM - 09:45 PM
January 1 11:30 AM - 09:45 PM
KAFFI LAEKUR
December 23 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 ......................................................................................................................CLOSED
December 26 CLOSED
December 31 CLOSED
January 1 CLOSED
KASTRUP
December 23 11:45 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:45 AM - 11:00 PM
December 31 06:00 PM - 11:00 AM
January 1 ..............................................................................................................................CLOSED
KOL
December 23 12:00 PM - 02:00 PM and 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 Closed
December 25 Closed
December 26 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
LAUNDROMAT
December 23 ............................................................................................. 09:00 AM - 09:00 PM
December 24 10:00 AM - 04:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 09:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 31 ............................................................................................. 10:00 AM - 04:00 PM
LEBOWSKI BAR
December 23 ............................................................................................. 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 25 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
December 26 11:00 AM - 02:00 AM
December 31 11:00 AM - 03:00 AM
January 1 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
MANDI INGÓLFSTORG
December 23 .....................................................................................................................................
December 24 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 25 04:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 26 ............................................................................................. 04:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 31 11:00 AM - 05:00 AM
January 1 03:00 PM - 01:00 AM
MATHÖLL HLEMMUR
December 23 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 ............................................................................................. 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
December 31 CLOSED
January 1 CLOSED
MATHÖLL PÓSTHUS
December 23 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
December 31 11:30 AM - 05:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
MESSINN
December 23 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
December 24 ............................................................................................. 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 25 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 26 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
MONKEYS
December 23 12:00 PM - 04:00 PM and 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 ............................................ 12:00 PM - 02:00 PM and 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 23 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 24 ......................................................................................................................CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 CLOSED
December 31 ............................................................................................. 12:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
RAMEN MOMO
December 23 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 CLOSED
December 31 ............................................................................................. 12:00 PM - 09:30 PM
January 1 CLOSED
SANDHOLT
December 23 07:30 AM - 08:00 PM
December 24 07:30 AM - 02:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 07:30 AM - 04:00 PM
December 31 07:30 AM - 04:00 PM
January 1 07:30 AM - 04:00 PM
SATT
December 23 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 24 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 25 ............................................................................................. 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 26 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 31 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
January 1 11:30 AM - 09:00 PM
SJÁVARGRILLIÐ
December 23 11:30 AM - 02:30 PM and 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 ..................................................................................................... 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
SLIPPBARINN
December 23 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 24 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 25 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 26 12:00 PM - 11:00 PM
December 31 12:00 PM - 12:00 AM
January 1 12:00 PM - 12:00 AM
SÓLON ÍSLANDUS
December 23 ............................................................................................. 07:30 AM - 09:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:00 PM - 09:00 PM
December 31 CLOSED
January 1 ..............................................................................................................................CLOSED
SÆTA SVINIÐ
December 23 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 31 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
January 1 05:00 PM - 11:00 PM
SUMAC GRILL & DRINKS
December 23 ............................................................................................. 01:00 PM - 10:00 PM
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 05:30 PM - 10:00 PM
December 31 05:00 PM - 10:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
VOX BRASSERIE & BAR
December 23
December 24
December 25
06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 10:00 PM
December 26 ................................06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
December 31
January 1
06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
06:00 AM - 11:00 PM (Brasserie), bar 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM
MUSEUMS DURING CHRISTMAS
When it’s snowing outside, it’s nice to spend time inside. Visiting a museum or two is the best way to warm up on a cold winter’s day. Reykjavík’s history reaches more than a thousand years back and the city has a rich cultural heritage. What better way is there to learn more about Icelandic culture than visiting the museums scattered throughout the city centre?
Some museums have a special Advent programme, like Árbær Open Air Museum. Christmas activities take place in every corner of the museum. Singing Christmas carols, dancing around the Christmas tree, and visits from the Yule Lads are just a couple of examples. Lots of special activities will be organised, like making traditional Icelandic Christmas decorations, decorating Laufabrauð (a crispy, deep-fried cracker), candle
making, wood whittling, spinning yarn, and knitting. It will also be possible to taste Hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and fermented skate.
The National Museum of Iceland also has an annual Advent programme, starting the first weekend of December. During Advent, there will be an exhibition with information on Icelandic Christmas traditions. Between December 12-24, the Yule Lads will pay a visit to the museum at 11:00 AM, after they finish their work of putting gifts in kids’ shoes. Generally, museums will be closed over Christmas (December 24-26) and on January 1. Almost everyone is at home with their families during those days. If you’re in town during the holidays and are looking for a museum to visit, check out the opening hours in this guide.
SAGA MUSEUM
THERMAL POOLS DURING THE HOLIDAYS
Swimming in Iceland is a unique experience. Calling Iceland a swimmer’s paradise might sound like a contradiction in terms to some people, but, due to the abundance of geothermal water, swimming is one of the most popular pastimes on this Arctic island.
Nothing beats soaking in a hot tub in the winter darkness with steam wafting up from the geothermally heated water and stars twinkling above. Hot tubs are a place to relax, soothe aching muscles after working out, and last but not least, to socialise. Sure, it can take a bit of effort to run out into the cold, wearing only your swimsuit, but once you’re immersed in that silky warm water, it is completely worth it.
The Capital Area boasts 18 public thermal pools that are open almost every day during the holidays. The largest of the pools, Laugardalslaug,
is only closed for one day during the Christmas season. It’s open on New Year’s Day from 12:00 AM to 06:00 PM, and can you think of a better way to start the new year?
The Reykjavík City Card, valid for 24, 48, or 72 hours, gives free entry to Reykjavík’s pools, hot pots and saunas. Next to free access to pools, it also provides free entry to museums and galleries, the Reykjavík Zoo and Family Park, and free use of the public transport system in the Capital Area. For more information, visit www. visitreykjavik.is
If you want to go swimming, check out the opening hours of the pools in Reykjavík during the holidays in this guide.
ÁRBÆJARLAUG
December 23 06:30 AM - 6:00 PM
December 24 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
BREIÐHOLTSLAUG
December 23 06:30 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM
GRAFARVOGSLAUG
December 23 06:30 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 ......... 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM
KLÉBERGSLAUG
December 23 09:00 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 09:00 AM - 01:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 ......... 09:00 AM - 01:00 PM
January 1 CLOSED
LAUGARDALSLAUG
December 23 06:30 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM
SUNDHÖLLIN
December 23 06:30 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM
VESTURBÆJARLAUG
December 23 06:30 AM - 06:00 PM
December 24 ......... 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 05:00 PM
December 31 06:30 AM - 12:00 PM
January 1 01:00 PM - 05:00 PM
NAUTHÓLSVÍK BEACH
December 23 CLOSED
December 24 CLOSED
December 25 CLOSED
December 26 11:00 AM - 03:00 PM
December 31 ..................................CLOSED
January 1 11:00 AM - 03:00 PM
Please note, opening hours are subject to change.
Opening hours
FRI 20th 12PM - 4:30AM
SAT 21st 12PM - 4:30AM
SUN 22nd 12PM - 1AM
MON 23rd 12PM - 3AM
TUE 24th CLOSED
WED 25th CLOSED
THU 26th 12PM - 3AM
FRI 27th 12PM - 4:30AM
SAT 28th 12PM - 4:30AM SUN 29th 12PM - 1AM
MON 30th 12PM - 1AM
TUE 31th 12PM - 4:30AM
WED 1st 12PM - 1AM
Live music - happy hour - darts
CHRISTMAS EVENTS IN REYKJAVÍK
DECEMBER 1
PÁLL ÓSKAR & MONIKA CHRISTMAS CONCERT
HÁTEIGSKIRKJA, CLOSE TO THE KLAMBRATÚN PARK
5:00 PM AND 8:00 PM
ADMISSION: 6,900 ISK
This intimate concert for Páll Óskar and Monika’s Christmas album “Ljósin Heima” which came out in 2003, will be a staple in the realm of Icelandic Christmas Concerts. Those who have been to a concert with Iceland’s iconic pop stars Páll Óskar and Monika know that the listeners will be enchanted by their vocals, coming out a changed person! The location is in the beautiful Háteigskirkja and opens its doors at 4:30 PM and 7:30 PM. Only 300 tickets
are sold for each concert making it truly special and cosy.
BAROQUE ADVENT CONCERT HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CATHEDRAL
5:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,900 ISK
For those looking for a more thoughtful and cultured holiday season, Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral is hosting a baroque concert on the first of Advent. Listen to old German masters such as Telemann and Handel on the Hallgrímskirkja organ. The programme will include Telemann’s Hamburger Ebb’ und Fluth, a Handel organ concerto, and Nun komm der Heiden Heiland, also by Telemann. Tickets are available online at tix.is.
DECEMBER 6
SILVA & STEINI
IÐNÓ
08:00 PM
ADMISSION: 6,990 ISK
Silva Þórðardóttir and Steingrímur Teague, collectively known as Silva & Steini, are set to enchant with their love for Christmas carols in IÐNÓ. They recently released a new Christmas album. Accompanied by Andri Ólafsson (base), Magnús Tryggvason (drums), Svanhildur Lóa Bergsveinsdóttir (vibraphone) and Eiríkur Orri Ólafsson (trumpet), they will bring the Christmas spirit.
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
THE HOLIDAY
09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
The Party Screenings at Bió Paradís are a date night staple in Reykjavík. Classic movies and forgotten gems are shown, and everyone has a lap full of popcorn and snacks! To get in the festive mood, Bíó Paradís is offering a veritable barrage of Christmas cheer, screening family favourites.
KK & JÓN JÓNSSON ADVENT CONCERT
FRÍKIRKJA CHURCH
7:30 PM
ADMISSION: 6,990 ISK
Get a truly Icelandic experience with two of the nation’s most beloved singer-songwriters in performance together. For the fourth year in a row, KK (Kristján Kristjánsson) will be holding a special Advent concert, this time together with Jón Jónsson, playing songs that every Icelander knows and loves. Tickets have sold out to past performances, and it’s recommended to buy tickets early online. Tickets are available online at tix.is.
DECEMBER 7
SIGGA BEINTEINS ANNUAL CHRISTMAS CONCERT
HARPA, ELDBORG HALL
9:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990-15,990 ISK
Sigga Beinteins will perform Christmas songs and classical ballads in both Icelandic and English. Being one of Iceland’s most beloved pop singers, you might know her from the Eurovision Song Contest, in which she participated three times. During her concert, she will invite some of
the best Icelandic musicians. This year, Borgardætur, Diddú, Erna Hrönn and Bjarni Arason will take the stage with her. She will sing pop, rock, classical songs, and ballads, and her shows are known for theatrical stage design and visual effects. Christmas spirit guaranteed!
REYKJAVÍK MEN’S CHOIR
WHERE: HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CATHEDRAL
05:00 PM
ADMISSION: 6,500 ISK
This annual concert series is held in Reykjavík’s beautiful Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral. The programme will include a delightful blend of traditional Christmas music, both well- and lesserknown. With special guest Dísella Lárusdóttir, opera singer, it’s sure to be a wonderful evening of music and song. Tickets are available online at tix.is.
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
HOME ALONE
02:30 PM
NATIONAL LAMPOON’S CHRISTMAS VACATION
09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
DECEMBER 8
BRÍET
HARPA, SILFURBERG VENUE
6:00 & 9:00 PM
ADMISSION: 13,990-15,990 ISK
If we had to put one face to Icelandic pop music right now, we’d have to go with Bríet. Since the release of her 2020 album Kveðja, Bríet, she’s earned herself a place in the hearts and ears of the nation. She has also become famous as a spectacular live performer, known for her showmanship, warmth, and sincerity. At her upcoming two concerts in Harpa’s Silfurberg concert hall, she’ll be performing her beloved hits, in addition to some Christmas remixes.
DECEMBER 9
REYKJAVÍK MEN’S CHOIR
HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CATHEDRAL
08:00 PM
ADMISSION: 6,500 ISK TICKETS AT TIX.IS
DECEMBER 13
SYCAMORE TREE
DÓMKIRKJAN CHURCH
07:30 PM AND 09:30 PM
ADMISSION: 6,990 ISK
The duet Sycamore Tree is Ágústa Eva (singer) and Gunni Hilmars (guitarist). They play their favourite Christmas songs in this intimate venue, in addition to their most popular songs through the years.
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
DIE HARD
09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
DECEMBER 14
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
HOME ALONE 2: LOST IN NEW YORK
02:30 PM
LOVE ACTUALLY
06:00 PM AND 09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
DECEMBER 19
DAÐI FREYR - WHEN DAÐI STOLE CHRISTMAS GAMLA BÍÓ
10:00 PM
ADMISSION: 8,990 ISK-10,990 ISK
Daði Freyr became famous around Europe almost overnight after performing his catchy pop song together with his band Gagnamagnið for Iceland in Eurovision in 2021. He already caught attention outside Iceland in 2020 for another hit song for the contests, which was cancelled due
to the pandemic. Here, he performs Christmas songs in party versions, suitable for dancing, laughing and dancing some more. Tickets on tix.is
DECEMBER 20
HERA BJÖRK, MARGRÉT EIR & DÍSELLA –CHRISTMAS IN ELDBORG
HARPA, ELDBORG VENUE
5:30 PM AND 9:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990-15,990 ISK
Gear up for an unforgettable Christmas concert in Eldborg! Hera Björk, Margrét Eir and Dísella, iconic singers with over 30 years of friendship, will dazzle in a unique Christmas concert featuring Frostrósir’s main festive tunes. Frostrósir (Snowflakes) was a series of Christmas concerts from 2002-2013 with over 30,000 people attending in those years. Set in an elegant backdrop, the trio will be accompanied by a solo orchestra, a stellar string ensemble, outstanding choirs, and special guests including singer Stefán Hilmarsson. With over a decade since Frostrósir’s last concert, Hera, Margrét and Dísella will revive cherished songs, promising a magical Christmas journey in Eldborg.
EMMSJÉ GAUTI: JÜLEVENNER
ÍR HEIMILIÐ IN BREIÐHOLT SUBURB
07:30 PM AND 11:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990-13,990 ISK
Emmsjé Gauti and Jülevenner are set to rock the roof off ÍR heimilið in a Christmas extravaganza. The guest lineup, featuring Birgitta Haukdal, Patr!k, Steindi Jr., GDRN and Úlfur Úlfur, along with surprise guests, promises a stellar show. Brace yourself for a Christmas like no other, as a thousand bells chime in harmony when Emmsjé Gauti kicks off the holiday season at Háskólbíó. It’s best to snag tickets early, as Emmsjé’s shows are notoriously known to be sold out! Get your tickets on tix.is
DAÐI FREYR - WHEN DAÐI STOLE CHRISTMAS GAMLA BÍÓ
10:00 PM
ADMISSION: 8,990 ISK-10,990 ISK
Get your tickets on tix.is
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
LETHAL WEAPON
09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
DECEMBER 21
VALDIMAR GUÐMUNDSSON CHRISTMAS CONCERT
HARPA, ELDBORG
4:30 PM AND 8:30 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990 - 14,990 ISK
Valdimar returns for his annual Christmas concert in Eldborg hall in Harpa for two concerts in one night! The Icelandic singer and his band, also called Valdimar, are one of Iceland’s most famous musicians in the last decade. Some of his most popular songs are “Yfir Borgina” and “Ryðgaður dans.” Together with a large orchestra and a brass band
Valdimar will conduct a heartwarming and moving Christmas concert, which nobody should miss out on! This year’s special guests are Bríet, gugusar, and Júníus Meyvant.
BJÖRGVIN’S CHRISTMAS GUESTS LAUGARDALSHÖLL
09:00 PM
ADMISSION: 9,990 ISK
Björgvin’s Christmas Guests has been an annual concert for 15+ years but this will be the last time and they are planning to go out with a bang. Björgvin’s guests this year include Sissel (DK), Eivör (FO), Svala Björgvins (IS), Ásgeir (IS), Helgi Björns (IS) and Gissur Páll (IS). This has become the ultimate Christmas concert experience for many Icelanders through the years.
EMMSJÉ GAUTI: JÜLEVENNER
ÍR HEIMILIÐ IN BREIÐHOLT SUBURB
03:00 PM AND 11:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990-13,990 ISK
Get your tickets on tix.is
DAÐI FREYR - WHEN DAÐI STOLE CHRISTMAS GAMLA BÍÓ
10:00 PM
ADMISSION: 8,990 ISK-10,990 ISK
Get your tickets on tix.is
DECEMBER 23
BUBBI MORTHENS’ ÞORLÁKSMESSA
FAMILY CONCERT
HARPA, ELDBORG VENUE
06:00 PM
ADMISSION: 5,990 ISK - 8,990 ISK
Bubbi is the most beloved troubadour in Iceland and has held his annual
concert on Þorláksmessa for four decades. His main concert on the same evening is already sold out when this is written in late November, but tickets are still available for the family concert before it. Get ready for another ultimate Christmas concert experience (if you also plan to attend Björgvin’s Christmas Guests).
PARTY SCREENING AT BÍÓ PARADÍS
ELF
07:00 PM
ADMISSION: 2,190 ISK
Get your tickets at www.bioparadis.is.
EVENTS
TOP 10 DECEMBER ACTIVITIES
1.
Gaze at the stars while soaking in one of the 16 thermal pools in the Capital Area.
2. Revel in a Reykjavík winter: be dazzled by the multicoloured Christmas lights, skate on Tjörnin lake, the ice rink at Ingólfstorg, or at the skating hall in Laugardalur.
3. Make the most of the opportunity to shop tax-free. Icelandic design with a hefty discount, who can resist that?
4. Burn away the remnants of last year’s sins at a New Year’s Eve bonfire, or by setting off a bunch of fireworks at midnight.
5. Spoil yourself rotten in the ethereal environment of the Blue Lagoon. If you don’t have the time, the city’s thermal pools are also excellent.
6.
Stop at one of Reykjavík’s many cafés for a warm drink or at any of the city’s great restaurants for a traditional Christmas buffet.
7.
Participate in the “Christmas Book Flood” and cosy up with the latest bestselling Icelandic Noir!
8.
Go to a local brewery and try all of the different Christmas beers (at your own risk!)
9.
Take a tour through the majestic Icelandic landscape and see some of the many natural wonders Iceland has to offer, waterfalls, erupting hot springs, glaciers, and so much more.
10. Visit one of the many Christmas markets in the capital area and enjoy some steaming and delicious Glögg!
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