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WINING & DINING
WINING & DINING IN REYKJAVÍK
It’s easy to find something tasty to eat in Reykjavík. Fresh and seasonal Icelandic ingredients are popular, and the chefs of Reykjavík are always trying to think of new ways to prepare them, some simple and others more complex. We recommend trying everything from plokkfiskur (a fish and potatoes casserole) to delicate Icelandic seafood.
EATING OUT IN REYKJAVÍK
The tastes and smells of another country often stay with you long after you’ve forgotten everything you’ve learned at the museums. But finding something great to eat in a new place can often be difficult. Here are some helpful tips to remember when dining in Reykjavík, if you want to make every meal count.
TRADITIONAL FOOD Traditional Icelandic food is usually centred around fish or lamb. There’s a fair share of dishes that owe their existence to a time before refrigeration; made with smoked, salted, and fermented ingredients. Many of these dishes are an acquired taste, such as the famous fermented shark and pickled ram’s testicles, and are usually only trotted out for special occasions. But dishes such as harðfiskur (fish jerky) or hangikjöt (smoked lamb) are delicious all year round.
Then there are the slightly more modern classics, such as plokkfiskur (fish and potato casserole), fish balls (like meatballs, only with fish), and kjötsúpa (broth-based clear lamb and vegetable soup). These are simple dishes, regularly served in most Icelandic homes, but they taste delicious. For desserts, the most iconic dish is probably Icelandic pancakes (crêpe-like pancakes served plain with sugar or stuffed with jam and cream). FINE DINING Reykjavík’s fine dining scene is lively and innovative, ranging from Michelin-starred culinary experiences to local favourites. Since traditional Icelandic cooking is relatively light on technique (it involves a lot of boiling), a popular way to approach modern Icelandic cuisine is to focus on quality local ingredients but seek inspiration from other parts of the world on how to prepare them. The result is a melting pot of different influences.
For instance, one of the most established restaurants in Reykjavík is Tapas barinn, a tapas restaurant, but their most popular dish is cured Icelandic lamb in a liquorice sauce.
Icelandic lamb and seafood are some of the best you’ll ever taste, so be sure to try them at least once while you’re here. Langoustine, or Icelandic lobster, is another thing most Icelandic restaurants have on their menu and it is some of the most delicate and delicious seafood you’ll ever taste!
Recently, restaurants like Dill and Matur og Drykkur, inspired by the new Nordic cuisine, have been making waves in the Icelandic restaurant scene, experimenting with unconventional Icelandic ingredients and rediscovering forgotten cooking methods. Don’t be surprised to see unfamiliar ingredients on menus, such as whale, puffin, horse, or even reindeer.
CITY CENTRE FOOD HALLS Hlemmur - The former bus station used to be known as the dodgy end of town but was turned into a food hall a few years ago. Today, it’s a popular meeting place to feast on some high-quality food and drink in a relaxed atmosphere.
Grandi - The food hall by the old harbour is emblematic of the neighbourhood, where fish processing factories and fishermen’s huts have been transformed into stylish boutiques and scrumptious restaurant. Serving street food of various origins, the Grandi food hall also offers a lovely view of the old harbour area. Gallery. The stylish food hall is situated in the latest addition to the city centre, surrounded by shopping and sightseeing opportunities.
LIGHT MEALS For less formal meals, there are plenty of nice restaurants in Reykjavík that won’t break the bank but still serve delicious food. The city centre has a high concentration of bistros, cafés, and gastro pubs serving sandwiches, salads, soups, and other delights, perfect for lunch or a light dinner.
Even though Iceland is famous for its lack of McDonald’s, we still have fast food chains, such as Subway, Domino’s, and KFC, as well as a few of our own. Hamborgarabúllan restaurants serve great burgers and Serrano sells delicious Ice-Mex food, to name a few. Lemon, a juice and sandwich place and Local, a chain of salad bars, are perfect if you’re looking for healthier options.
Finally, there are great sushi restaurants in varying price ranges. Iceland is actually one of the few places in the world that rivals Japan for access to fresh fish!
NEW NORDIC FOOD, ICELANDIC STYLE? Delicious products straight out of Icelandic nature are finally getting the attention and care they deserve and taste better than ever!
SOMETHING ADVENTUROUS? Reykjavík’s restaurants tend to have at least one dish that’s a bit surprising. If you’ve never tried horse, now’s your chance!
PLOKKFISKUR? Decidedly non-glamourous but consistently delicious, this fish and potato stew is usually served with dark and sweet rye bread.
LANGOUSTINE? If plokkfiskur is not glamorous enough for you, try Icelandic lobster. Delicious in soups, sandwiches, or just served on its own with heaps of garlic butter!
THE ICELANDIC HOT DOG? It’s a cultural institution, so get “one with everything,” ketchup, mustard, remoulade and two kinds of onion, fresh and fried.
ICELANDIC LAMB? Icelandic lamb is in a league of its own, tender and succulent. KJÖTSÚPA? Icelandic meat soup at its most basic is a clear broth with whole pieces of lamb and vegetables, but every Icelander follows their own (or their mother’s) recipe.
SHARK? You’ve probably heard of this one; despite its reputation (and the smell), the shark meat is neither rotten nor putrid, but rather fermented.
ICELANDIC CRAFT BEER? Stop by Kaldi Bar for a taste of Kaldi beer, MicroBar for craft beers from microbreweries all over the world, or any of the city’s beer bars and taste the variety of beverages produced in the country!
ICE CREAM? The classic is soft-serve ice cream, served with all the sauces and toppings you can imagine, but gelato-style ice cream is also gaining in popularity.
RESTAURANT ETIQUETTE OF REYKJAVÍK
• Reservations are recommended, especially for fine dining, and during weekends and the summer season.
• In bistros and cafés, reservations aren’t necessary or even possible in some places, but it never hurts to ask, especially for larger groups.
• Tipping is not customary in Iceland, and there is no service fee. If you want to reward exceptional service financially, that’s fine and no one will be offended, but it’s not required.
• Icelandic tap water is not only safe; it tastes the same or even better than bottled water.
Iceland is known for the northern lights, the midnight sun, glaciers, and… coffee? Yes, really! The Nordic nations are some of the biggest coffee drinkers in the world, and Icelanders are no exception. The Icelanders’ love of the magic beans is evident by the sheer number of cafés in Reykjavík.
The first written documentation of coffee in Iceland is from the 18th century, when the tradition was brought to Iceland by way of Denmark, our overlords at the time. For some years, coffee drinkers were limited to the elite who had connections to Denmark, but in the 19th century, most average Icelanders had had their first taste of coffee (although it was still a luxury item). By the 20th century, however, coffee was an integral part of the household, and every farm in Iceland was roasting and grinding its own coffee beans. Serving strong coffee and lots of it was a point of pride, especially since coffee beans were relatively expensive, categorised as “colonial goods,” and revered appropriately as such. Any offer of coffee was likely to be met with a polite and humble, “Sure, just ten drops, please.”
In 1958, Café Mokka opened its doors on Skólavörðustígur in Reykjavík, when the city was just beginning to blossom into the cosmopolitan city it is today. It was a turning point in Iceland’s coffee culture, as it was the first café in Reykjavík to serve Italian-style espresso drinks. Today, of course, most cafés have a large gleaming espresso maker, although some coffee aficionados swear by the more traditional methods of brewing.
Speaking of Italian-style coffee drinks, the cafe latte is surprisingly controversial in Iceland, in some ways as a direct result of Café Mokka. Mokka has, ever since it opened, allowed artists to display their works on the walls and attracted an accordingly artistic crowd. It became synonymous with the experimental, modern art of the time it opened, which was hugely controversial for the newly independent nation. To this day, the cafe latte is a symbol of the rift between the hardworking, dripbrewed-cofee-drinking sailor and the cerebral, latte-sipping artist.
Whichever group you identify more with, getting a cup of coffee in Iceland – whether it’s in the morning, afternoon, or after dinner – is highly recommended (and don’t be afraid to get a latte if you want one).
COFFEE & SOMETHING WITH IT
Coffee is good on its own, but coffee and something sweet to go with it is even better! Getting invited for coffee at someone’s home usually means that you get a spread of pastries to go with your cup.
Traditional Icelandic pastries are usually on the simpler side, but that doesn’t make them any less delicious! Try kleinur (a cardamom-flavoured twisted donut), pönnukökur (crepe-like pancakes served either plain with sugar or stuffed with whipped cream and jam) or waffles (that also get the jam/cream treatment). Most cafés also serve slices of hnallþóra (fancy cakes, named after a character from Icelandic literary history famous for serving a multitude of cakes at coffee time) that go great with a cup of coffee.
GOING OUT IN ICELAND: BEER, BARS & BOOZE
Reykjavík nightlife is famous. Even infamous, depending on your point of view. While Icelanders have always known how to party, the bar scene in Reykjavík has done a lot of growing up in the last few years, with several dedicated beer bars opening their doors, as well as ambitious cocktail bars, serving up delicious concoctions.
GOING OUT IN ICELAND: BEER, BARS & BOOZE Reykjavík nightlife is famous. Even infamous, depending on your point of view. While Icelanders have always known how to party, the bar scene in Reykjavík has done a lot of growing up in the last few years, with several dedicated beer bars opening their doors, as well as ambitious cocktail bars, serving up delicious concoctions.
BARS Whether you want to have a beer in the afternoon, head out for a drink in the evening, or dance till the morning comes, the liveliest bar scene in Reykjavík is in the city centre, on and around Laugavegur and Austurstræti. Many bars double as cafés and bistros (and even triple as venues for concerts and other events), simply turning up the music as the night progresses. Closing times differ depending on the atmosphere of each drinking establishment but the rule of thumb is that bars must close at 01:00 on weekdays and no later than 04:30 on weekends. Some bars close earlier. The most popular drink is beer and there’s plenty of good beer to be had, but Reykjavík is also having a cocktail renaissance, so ask your bartender about the bar’s specialties!
BEER Believe it or not, beer was prohibited in Iceland for most of the 20th century. It was legalised on March 1, 1989, and March 1 is now the unofficial holiday of Beer Day! Ever since that day, Icelanders have been making up for lost time, and beer is now the most popular alcoholic beverage in Iceland. Perhaps more importantly, Icelanders also started brewing their own (delicious) beer. For the first few years, easily drinkable lager beers ruled the roost, but in the past few years, Icelanders have gotten a taste for a wider range. Have a Kaldi beer at Kaldi Bar downtown or stop by MicroBar, Brewdog, Session, or Skúli and taste some of their extensive selection of microbrews. Einstök beer is good and widely available, and the small-batch brews of Borg brewery are always worth trying. Ask your bartender what’s new! BOOZE Icelandic liquor, which hasn’t really been known for finesse through the years, is also going through a renaissance. Brennivín, the most famous Icelandic liquor, gets a bad rap (it’s also known as Black Death); but in fact, it’s distilled like an aquavit and much like its Scandinavian cousins, can be quite pleasantly sipped with smørrebrød. It’s flavoured with caraway seed. Apart from the traditional Brennivín, new creations like liqueurs made with Icelandic blueberries, crowberries, rhubarb, and even birch, are inspiring bartenders all over Reykjavík. You can also try Icelandic gin, vodka, and whisky! Finally, Icelanders are liquorice lovers and if you share that love, be sure to check out the vodka-based Opal and Tópas shots, available at most bars in Reykjavík.
