On the Table

Built in the 1800s from hemlock, our three-story bank barn is—by definition—set into a steep hil lside and accessible from every level. The chicken coop is on the middle floor and we journey down a set of wooden garden stairs to get there. One recent morning, I walked past the rhubarb plants that will soon poke their way through those stubborn vestiges of snow. I stepped past the castiron water spigot, still shut off for winter. I placed my left mud boot onto the landing near the black raspberry canes that need pruning. Right on cue, our rooster crowed. “Good morning, Rocky,” I said. As I approached the vintage sliding door, I found myself so grateful for those chickens. Grateful I didn’t have to worry about soaring egg prices. Grateful that all year long, from the heat of summer to the depths of winter, those “girls,” as we call our flock, hang out in that romantic but drafty barn laying all the eggs our family needs.

A Good Egg

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Eggs are more expensive than ever this spring. Give them the royal treatment with this tonnato-inspired mayonnaise.

Whether you wander to your own chicken coop in your pajamas or you have to put on your big girl pants and fork over the going rate, treat chicken eggs like caviar this month by giving them the reverence they deserve.

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

While eggs are a year-round staple, traditions associated with Easter and Passover have made them decidedly spring. This year for those holidays, try a softer, 5-minute boil— which results in a vibrant, jammy yolk. Then leave the yolk where it belongs, and top each egg with a generous dollop of luscious, tonnato-inspired mayonnaise that’s been folded with smoked fish from right here at home.

Dave Weidner is an editorial photographer and videographer based in Northern Michigan. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook @dzwphoto.

Sarah Peschel, @22speschel, is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

Jammy Eggs with Smoked-Fish Mayo

Makes 24 servings

12 large eggs

3 ounces smoked fish, such as lake trout or whitefish, removed from its skin and flaked into smaller pieces

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 heaping teaspoon drained capers

½ teaspoon anchovy paste

Juice from half a lemon, about 1 ½ Tablespoons

2 Tablespoons cold water

½ cup mayonnaise

Chives, for garnish

1. Gently place eggs in a stockpot and add cold water until the eggs are covered by an inch of water. Set the pot over high heat and bring the water to a boil. Ignore every warning you’ve ever been given about not watching water boil, and instead keep a very close eye on that pot. The moment there are large, frequent bubbles but before the eggs are rattling, cover the pot with a snug lid and remove it from the heat. Immediately set a timer for 4 to 6 minutes, depending on how jammy you like your yolks. Let the eggs steep, covered, in the hot water until your timer goes off, being careful not to overcook.

2. While the eggs steep, prepare an ice bath. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice and add cold water. The moment the egg timer expires, use a slotted spoon to remove the eggs from the hot water, gently placing them into the ice bath to stop the cooking process.

3. As the eggs cool, make the smoked fish mayo. Add smoked fish, olive oil, capers, anchovy paste and lemon juice to a food processor and turn on to whiz. While it is running, add cold water until the mixture resembles thick Caesar salad dressing. Scrape the fish paste into a bowl and add the mayonnaise, gently folding the two together with a rubber spatula until they are fully incorporated.

4. Working under cold running water, carefully peel each egg. Slice the eggs in half, lengthwise. To keep them from slipping, smear a small fingertip of smoked fish mayo on the bottom of each half and place them on a serving platter. Top each soft-boiled egg with a generous dollop of smoked-fish mayo. Garnish with chives and serve. – S.B.