On the Town

Snout to tail, the noble pig makes for tasty April table fare.

BY TIM TEBEAU

La Bécasse 9009 SOUTH DUNNS FARM ROAD, BURDICKVILLE 231-334-3944

Cassoulet for Two: Take your lover and your appetite to the back roads of Burdickville for the official dish of Gascony. Duck, Toulouse sausage and, yes, lots of rich pork are slow-cooked with white beans, tomato and herbs.

Trattoria Stella 1200 WEST ELEVENTH STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231-929-8989

Pig’s Foot: Slow cooked, focaccia dusted, fried and served up with hot peppers, lemon and thyme, it doesn’t really get any better.

Lulu’s Bistro 213 NORTH BRIDGE STREET, BELLAIRE 231-533-5252

Smoked Pork Sliders: Lulu’s provides midday ecstasy in the form of smoked, hand-pulled pork butt served on a crusty roll with barbeque caramelized onions and truffle oil slaw.

Chandler’s 215 ½ HOWARD STREET, PETOSKEY 231-347-2981

Bangers and Mash: Chef Tommy Kaszubowski reinvents this old school English pub favorite with housemade pork sausage, creamy mashed potatoes and spicy mustard. Have two pints and take the rest of the day off.

Adam McMarlin

EXECUTIVE

CHEF, THE BAY LEAF, TRAVERSE CITY

With humble beginnings as a self-described ‘produce rat’ at Vince & Joe’s on Detroit’s east side, Adam McMarlin felt the pull of the kitchen through his college years and got a hands-on education at San Diego’s Farmhouse Café before returning to Michigan and opening Traverse City’s Bay Leaf with Dan Kelly and Denny Fitzpatrick last fall. We catch Adam in his kitchen to eat pork and talk simple food.

This is my first time eating pork cheeks; what makes them so good?

The cheek or jowl is a very tough muscle because it’s used constantly but it is flavorful for that very reason. I slowly braise it in beer with star anise, fennel seeds, cardamom, coriander and cinnamon stick and then sear it before serving.

Since this month is all about the pigs, what should our readers know?

If you’re going to get serious about pork, the quality of the pig is most important. Locally raised heritage breeds like Berkshire or Mangalitsa are highly marbled and therefore better. I encourage everyone to order or cook with the more flavorful cuts like shoulder, belly and rib chops.

Food editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com