TRAVEL

Wait a while in the Never Never

Red dust, ant hills taller than a man, tropical cabbage palm forests, thermal springs and rivers that never dry up. BEVERLEY EVERSON heads into the heart of the Never Never.

ELSEY National Park in the Northern Territory supports all types of native birds and animal life in a vast wilderness and, even more unlikely, has buffalo and camels roaming around.

It’s also home to Mataranka, which in the local Yangmanic language means “home of the snake”.

With a population of about 400, it was first gazetted as a town in 1928 after the arrival of the North Australia Railway. The narrow-gauge line closed in 1976 after being damaged by a cyclone – by then the new railway passed about 20km west.

Mataranka played a role in World War II as the Australian Army set up a hospital nearby, and the 10th Australian Advanced Ordnance workshops camped here in paperbark buildings. There was also an ammunition depot.

It is the closest town to Elsey NP and is located on the sealed Stuart Highway about 101km from Katherine.

There are two seasons – dry (May to October) and wet (November to April).

May to September is the most comfortable time to visit as temperatures in mid-summer can exceed 50C.

We arrived in mid-August and already the days were hot. At 4pm, close to “happy hour”, it was still 39C, although it did cool down later in the evening.

In the centre of Mataranka township is a well-maintained, lush green park for travellers to rest. Beware of the sprinklers and park well away from bore water spray which leaves a residue on paint work.

You can top up with supplies here if necessary, as there are two petrol stations, grocery store, hotel, dump point behind the park and other amenities including a police station and school. There are two caravan parks on the outskirts or stay at Elsey National Park an easy 17km south-east.

The national park, named for the old Elsey Station which was made famous in Mrs Aeneas Gunn’s 1908 book We of the Never Never, offers excellent swimming but only at Bitter Springs and Mataranka Thermal Pools. Swimming and canoeing are no longer permitted in the Roper and Waterhouse rivers, home of saltwater crocodiles. It is permitted to fish from the bank (with care) and by boat (max. 15hp). Barra is the preferred catch.

In the bar area of the Mataranka thermal pools complex, a sign showcases the fish of the day catch and records. During our visit the sign advised that “Whippy” had caught a 120cm barra in March 2020 which was the standing record – what a whopper!

Size and possession limits apply. The Department of Primary Industries and Resources website has details. Fishing with nets, traps and spears is also prohibited.

Excellent boat ramps are located at 4 Mile and 12 Mile Yards within the NP.

The campground – Jalmurark – is excellent, with showers, fireplaces, and picnic tables and barbecues in the day visit areas. Sites are spacious with shade and sun to accommodate all types of camping up to large vans.

National Park fees apply and are by self-registration, so there are no concerns about having to pay online, which is just as well as mobile reception is limited. (Reception was excellent a few kilometres up the road.) There are no powered sites and generators are not permitted.

The campground is an excellent base for driving to see the sights of Bitter Springs, Elsey Homestead and cemetery, and Mataranka hot springs. All are well sign posted and highlight pastoral and local history, including the old station sheep dip and Aboriginal Army Camp.

A riverside walking trail begins at the thermal pools and continues 16km through the park to Mataranka Falls, or choose different access points to the river and scenic picnic spots from John Hauser Drive, which leads into the NP and campground.

Be safe and observe the signs not to swim or paddle, even though the crystal clear water, rock pools and sandy beaches look inviting. The salties are lurking.

Hat, sunscreen, enclosed shoes, and water bottles are necessary as parts are sandy and unshaded. Some of the landmarks and picnic spots along this trail are Stevie’s Hole, Botanic Walk, and Korowan (Mataranka Falls).

Mataranka Thermal Pools has a privately-owned caravan park and cabins. Entry is free via a path through the resort. Beside the carpark is a replica of Elsey Homestead which was moved to this location after filming on We of the Never Never. A cairn and plaque are the only sign of the original homestead and outbuildings.

You can wander through the cemetery a short drive from the original site and find the clearly marked headstone of Aeneas Gunn’s last resting place.

The thermal pool and Bitter Springs are spring-fed, clear aqua pools surrounded by cabbage palm forests, weeping paperbarks and pandanus.

Bitter Springs is a beautiful creek where you can float peacefully in the warm current past ancient foliage to an exit point. Return along a concrete path and do it all over again.

This is truly a marvellous place for a traveller to stay and rest a while. As Mrs Gunn’s book says, a land of “wait a while”.

CAPE YORK FISHING ADVENTURE

6 days from $ 2,995^^

. Package based on a minimum group of 4 Guests. ^^ Price is per person quad share - 4 Guests per tent

(07) 5447 1011

www.tewantintravel.com admin@tewantintravel.com Shop 14, 113 Poinciana Ave, Tewantin

(07) 5446 1727

www.coolumcruiseandtravel.com.au info@coolumcruiseandtravel.com.au Shop 5 Coolum Village S/C, Coolum Beach

UNTAMED wilderness, unspoilt waters, tropical days and unmatched fishing experiences – Cape York is the perfect fishing holiday destination.

Chase the elusive barramundi in the estuaries and then minutes later find yourself pulling a Spanish mackerel from the blue waters.

A six-day Roko Island fishing adventure is the way to discover what Cape York has to offer.

Based near the tip of Cape York, it gives the opportunity to fish three different areas: the north east coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria, Torres Strait and the eastern tip of Cape York coast.

Fish some of the most pristine rivers, coastline and nearby coral fringed islands – blue waters or estuaries fishing, the choice is yours.

Cape York offers anglers the opportunity to chase some of the world’s best sports fish including barramundi, mangrove jack, Spanish and grey mackerel, long tail tuna, mackerel-tuna, coral trout, giant and golden trevally, fingermark, cobia, threadfin and salmon all in one location.

Bring your mates and enjoy an eco-tent experience on Roko Island where you can relax and enjoy having the Torres Strait as your front yard and Cape York as your backyard.

If you have ever dreamed of waking up on a tropical island, having breakfast with an ocean view, walking down the jetty to board your fishing boat and a few minutes later throwing a line in pristine waters, a Cape York fishing adventure is for you.

Call Tewantin Travel 5447 1011 or Coolum Cruise and Travel 5446 1727. ALTHOUGH there is still some uncertainty in the world, Princess Cruises is ready to sail as soon as it is safe.

For more than 50 years Princess has been taking guests to incredible destinations around the globe, and in recent months, it has been making plans to connect cruise travellers with inspiring lands and cities as soon as the time is right.

Princess allows guests to get the most out of a destination with “More Ashore” late night departures at selected ports, local connections offering exclusive shore excursions and “Across the Ditch”, a specially-curated program of local experiences on New Zealand cruises.

The Princess fleet is made up of 15 ships worldwide, including the newest, Enchanted Princess, which offers new dining experiences, the most pools and whirlpool hot tubs in the Princess fleet, world-class entertainment venues and Princess’s signature soaring piazza.

She is also a Princess Medallion Class smart ship, the ultimate in effortless, personalised and safe cruising.

Wearing your Ocean Medallion device, you can stay connected with fast and reliable wi-fi, order food and beverages to your location on the ship and find your travelling companions.

From staggered boarding to contactless payment and keyless stateroom entry, you can enjoy next-level service while staying safe at sea.

The Princess fleet cruising from Australia next summer includes five spectacular ships – Royal, Emerald, Sapphire, Coral and Pacific Princess.

Every Princess ship is a destination in itself with wide-ranging amenities and elevated culinary experiences.

For a limited time – and the first time ever – Princess is offering “Three for Free” when booking a cruise – free stateroom location upgrade, free onboard spending money and a free specialty dining voucher for two.

Take advantage of the sale as Princess’s “book with confidence” policy gives the flexibility to change plans.

Contact your local Travellers Choice agent, call 1300 787858 or visit travellerschoice.com.au

EXPERIENCE THE BEST THIS COUNTRY HAS TO OFFER

Senior Coach Tours including:

5 STAR COACH TRAVEL ALL ACCOMMODATION TOURS AND ENTRY FEES ALL DINNERS & BREAKFASTS MOST LUNCHES HOME PICKUP & RETURN*

TO BOOK

Phone: (07) 5391 1648 M: 0409 278 971 | E: tours@cttravel.com.au

www.cttravel.com.au CT

2021 Coach Tours rs

March 5 - 11, 2021 (7 Day Tour)

FRASER COAST & LADY MUSGRAVE ISLAND

Share/Double $2675.00pp Single $3141.00 April 19 - 22, 2021 (4 Day Escape)

O’REILLYS RAINFOREST RETREAT

Share/Double $1280.00pp Single $1480.00 May 6 - 19, 2021 (14 Day Tour)

OUTBACK NSW - THE DARLING RIVER RUN

Share/Double $4945.00pp Single $5717.00 May 31 - June 6, 2021 (7 Day Tour)

CARNARVON GORGE & WALLAROO

Share/Double $2500.00pp Single $3130.00 July 5 - 15, 2021 (11 Day Tour)

SOUTH WEST QUEENSLAND ADVENTURE

Share/Double $3975.00pp Single $4665.00 July 21 - 27, 2021 (7 Day Tour)

LIGHTNING RIDGE

Share/Double $2220.00pp Single $2495.00 July 29 – August 9, 2021 (12 Day Tour)

QUEENSLAND OUTBACK TO COAST

Share/Double $5129.00pp Single $5984.00 August 10 – 17, 2021 (8 Day Tour)

TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

Share/Double $3400.00pp Single $4010.00 August 26 – September 1, 2021 (7 Day Tour)

CARNARVON GORGE & WALLAROO

Share/Double $2500.00pp Single $3130.00 September ( )

FRASER ISLAND WHALE WATCH TOUR

Share/Doubl Single

Australian Travel to suit your Budget in 2021

Join Sunshine FM Presenter Penny Hegarty on these fabulous tours!

TOOWOOMBA & PITTSWORTH OVERNIGHTER

15th & 16th February 2021 $385

Per person, Twin share Single Room $455 CHINCHILLA & SURROUNDS - 3 DAYS

12th - 14th March 2021 $775

Per person, Twin share Single Room $875

ULURU & ALICE 6 DAYS

22nd - 27th June 2021

$3995 Per person, Twin share Single Room $4695 PERTH - GERALDTON 8 DAYS

23rd - 30th Sept 2021

$3650 Single Room $4200 Per person, Twin share TASMANIA INC. WYNYARD TULIP FESTIVAL - 11 DAYS

6th - 16th October 2021

$4955 Single Room $5810 Per person, Twin share

Includes • Accommodation • Coach Travel • Tours • Entry Fees Most Meals • Informative guided tours where your touring expectations are my priority.

AS UNCERTAINTY continues to plague travel plans, there remains one way to plan a break away without fear of cancellation – travel locally.

For seven days next month, you can sit back and relax to enjoy the view from a luxury coach heading north to explore the islands – Lady Musgrave and Fraser – and the points of interest in between.

Despite images of the world’s largest sand island burning, the recent bushfire was stopped at the mid-point of the island and all the sights that fascinate visitors remain untouched.

K’gari-Fraser Island has been declared safe and open for visitors.

The islands tour leaves Brisbane on March 5, stopping in Gympie and Childers en route to Bundaberg, where the Burnett Riverside Hotel will be the base for the next three nights.

It’s an early start the next morning to board the Sea Empress for a day’s excursion to Lady Musgrave Island, where experienced local guides lead a walking tour. There will also be plenty of time for a swim and to see the reef from a glass-bottom boat.

The next day is more leisurely, with a guided tour and tasting at the Bundaberg Rum distillery and The Bundaberg Barrel, home of ginger beer.

Day 4 turns south to Hervey Bay, where, after lunch at the Marina Boat Club, guests board the ferry to Fraser. Settle in at the Kingfisher Bay Resort in time for sunset drinks and dinner at the Sand Bar Bistro.

The next day is a full day’s adventure touring the beauty spots of the island’s east, from an airconditioned customdesigned 4WD coach. See the famous pure white silica sand and crystal-clear waters of Boorangoora (Lake McKenzie) and the rainforest of Central Station, the spectacular sand cliffs, and the remains of the Maheno, before lunching at Eurong Beach resort.

Day 6 is cruising the west coast of the island and an eco-adventure in the UNESCO-awarded Great Sandy biosphere led by a local skipper and resort ranger.

The final day starts with a leisurely breakfast before heading home, stopping at Maryborough for lunch.

If you’re looking for a luxury four-day escape, head south from April 19-22, to explore the World Heritage-listed Lamington National Park while staying at the award-winning O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in the Gold Coast hinterland.

Gourmet meals, wine tasting at the Canungra Valley vineyards, early morning birdwalks, a trip to see the glow worms, and the famous treetop walk are just part of the tour.

Full tour details, itineraries and a list of upcoming tours to choose your destination and duration, are on the CT Travel website. Visit cttravel.com.au

SINCLAIR TOUR & TRAVEL Ph: 5494 5083

11 Feb 12 Feb 23 Feb 3 Mar 12 Mar 16 Mar 18 Mar 30 Mar 28 Apr 17 Dec Day Tours - with Pick ups

North Stradbroke Island Mt Mee Scenic Drive & Lunch Skypoint Tower/Lunch Mary Valley Rattler Sth Burnett Winery Lunch Tamborine Glow Worms/Lunch Sth Stradbroke Lunch Cruise Lychee Divine Farm Tour and Lunch Come From Away QPAC Keith Urban In Concert Extended Tours - Small Groups!

27 Feb 14 Mar

24 Mar 9 Apr 11 Apr 17 Apr 20 Apr 26 Apr 12 June 19 Oct Johnny Cash/Gold Coast O’nite Barossa Valley, Kangaroo Island and Murray River Silo Art Trail – Adelaide to Albury Nth Burnett Country Drive Central Qld Coast - 4 Days Outback Qld, Longreach/Winton Toowoomba/Goondiwindi - 4 Days High Country Autumn Colours Norfolk Island - 8 Days O’Reilly’s - 4 Days

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info@sinclairtours.com www.sinclairtours.com

SMALLER GROUPS MORE FUN!

SENIOR COACH TOURS HOME PICKUP AND RETURN

HOME PICKUPS: Brisbane, Redlands, Ipswich, Caboolture, Bribie Isl, Sunshine Coast, Gold Coast.

Covid-19 safe - limited coach seating, Enhanced vehicle cleaning and sanitizing, Coastal Variety Tours in association with Kangaroo Bus Lines are committed to providing safe and reliable coach travel in line with government and health authority guidance.

GOLD COAST VIP | 4 DAY TOUR $1199 April/May

Sanctury Cove - Intercontinental Resort - Australian Outback Spectacular - Binna Burra - Saint BernardHotel - Boat Cruise - Single Supplement Discount $99.

MUDGEE LIGHTNING RIDGE | 9 Days $1999, 9th - 17th May

Mudgee Tour, Dubbo the Taronga Open Range Zoo, Warrumbungles, Siding Spring Exploratory, Lightning Ridge Tour, Armidale, Goondiwindi, Sanctuary Cove Intercontinental Resort.

OUTBACK QUEENSLAND & WHITSUNDAYS | 11 Days $2550, 10th - 20th June

Longreach - Winton - Charleville - Miles - Clermont - Airlie Beach - Rockhampton Charleville Cosmos Centre, Longreach Hall of Fame, Qantas Museum, Thompson River Sunset Drovers Dinner, Winton Age of Dinosaurs, Waltzing Matilda Centre. Whitsunday Boat Cruise - Daydream & Hamilton Islands, Town of 1770.

CAIRNS & TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND | 14 Days $2,999, 22nd July - 4 August

Cairns 4 nights - Skyrail/Train Kuranda, Daintree Rainforest River Cruise, Port Douglas, Atherton Tableland Tour, Millaa Millaa Falls, Paronella Park, Lake Barrine Cruise. • Townsville 3 nights - Magnetic Island Cruise. • Airlie Beach 2 nights - Whitsunday Cruise, Daydream and Hamilton Islands.

Asia & Australia

16 nights from Brisbane to Hong Kong onboard Royal Princess® Visit Brisbane . Darwin . Lombok . Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My) . Nha Trang . Hong Kong Cruise departs 09 March 2022 Interior Stateroom from $1,799* pp Balcony Stateroom from $2,239* pp

Fiji

14 nights roundtrip from Brisbane onboard Coral Princess® Visit Brisbane . Noumea . Mystery Island . Suva . Dravuni Island . Savusavu . Lautoka . Isle of Pines . Brisbane Cruise departs 02 January 2022 Interior Stateroom from $2,200* pp Balcony Stateroom from $3,000* pp

+ + FREE FREE FREE Specialty Dining voucherStateroom Location Onboard Spending upgrade+ valued up to Money^ valued up to for 2# on voyages $600 per stateroom $400 per stateroom 7 nights or more

Princess MedallionClass™ smart ships feature TrulyTouchless™ technology to offer the ultimate in effortless and personalised cruising.

BOOK WITH YOUR LOCAL TRAVELLERS CHOICE AGENT

CALOUNDRA - Ucango Travel & Cruise Centre - 5437 4000 • COOLUM BEACH - Coolum Cruise & Travel - 5446 1727 • KAWANA WATERS - Kawana Waters Travel - 5444 6500 • MAROOCHYDORE - Ucango Travel & Cruise Centre - 5451 8600 NAMBOUR - Easy Travel and Cruise - 5313 4980 • TEWANTIN - Tewantin Travel - 5447 1011

*Conditions apply: Prices are per person twin share based on lead category for each stateroom type in AUD unless otherwise specified. Prices correct as at 15 Jan 21 & subject to change without notice & availability at time of booking. Advertised prices inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees & port expenses (which are subject to change). Supplements apply for other stateroom categories. Fares based on specific departure dates only. Higher fares may apply to other departure dates listed. Offer ends 02 Mar 21 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings & not combinable with any other offer. Princess Cruises has set aside a reasonable number of staterooms which are available at these fares. Once these staterooms are sold, fares may vary. Some oceanview staterooms have obstructed views. Prices shown are Princess Savers fare which is cruise fare only without any inclusions. Option to upgrade to Princess Plus fare. Princess Plus fare is valid for the first 2 guests in the stateroom when booking select cruises 5+ nights and includes cruise fare packaged with Premier Beverage Package and WiFi. Premier Beverage Package applies to the first 2 guests in the stateroom when aged 18 years or over (21 years on some international voyages). Exclusions apply. Guests under legal drinking age will receive the Premier Coffee & Soda package. WiFi on Pacific Princess: the Premium PrincessCONNECT Internet Package applies & usage is unlimited across multiple devices in a stateroom (accessed through one device at a time only). All other ships: unlimited MedallionNet package applies, limited to 1 device per passenger. Princess Plus fare does not apply by default to 3rd & 4th guests, they can choose to opt into the fare. +Stateroom Location upgrade is valid on interior, oceanview, balcony, deluxe balcony & mini-suite stateroom bookings only. Guest must book the desired grade at the time of booking. Offer excludes club class mini-suites & suites, & does not apply to land portion of land & sea holidays. ^Onboard Spending Money is per stateroom as marked on selected itineraries, is applied to the first two passengers in a stateroom, varies by stateroom type & voyage length & is not transferable, non-refundable, not redeemable for cash & cannot be used at the medical centre or casino. #Specialty Dining voucher offer allocated one per stateroom for selected cruises of 7+ nights & includes gratuities. Where applicable, guests receive a complimentary dinner for two in one of Princess Cruises’ onboard specialty restaurants. Restaurants vary by ship. Voucher will be delivered to your stateroom & is redeemable with the Maitre d’ at time of dining. Restaurant & reservation time will be assigned by Princess Cruises. Offer does not apply to special dining events or packages that take place in specialty restaurants, does not include beverages which are available at an additional cost & is non-transferable & not redeemable for cash. Princess reserves the right to substitute for onboard spending money of equal value which will expire if not used by 10:00 PM on the last evening of the cruise. Princess Cruises is assessing enhanced health & safety protocols, in light of COVID-19 & how they may impact future offerings. Actual offerings may vary from what is advertised here. Princess Cruises Book with Confidence policy: Book by 02 Mar 21 knowing you can cancel up to 30 days prior to sailing for voyages departing until 31 Dec 21, & receive your cancellation fees back as a Future Cruise Credit which can be used on any sailing that departs within one year of your original departure date, or 01 May 22, whichever is later. Further conditions may apply. Booking, credit card & cancellation fees may apply. ATAS No. A10430.