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Natsuki Matsuguma
Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Content Introduction
Current UK Retail Landscape History Brand Identity Prism Swot Pestel Competitor Position Matrix
Customer Profile Consumer Identification Emerging Customer Habits Key Market Drivers 7 P’s of Marketing AIDA Event launch Proposal Reference 2
Introduction While many skincare and cosmetic brands exist today, Kiehl’s is famous as a skincare brand that uses natural ingredients that are loved by people all over the world. Of course, “Kiehl’s” is highly regarded as one of the overseas brands in my country. However, all I knew about Kiehl’s was the “Organic Cosmetics Brand”, and I did n’t have any detailed knowledge about how Kiehl’s became famous, its current brand power, and new public relations activities in line with the times. The purpose of this report is to scrutinize various strategies such as brand history, brand DNA, customer profile, and promotions from the marketing perspective of Kiehl’s skincare brand, and clarify the management strategy of the Kiehl’s brand.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Cosmtic Retail Landscape
The beauty industry is one of the most influential industries in the UK economy. The total amount of beauty expenditure in 2018 is £ 27.2 billion, including goods and services. That's 1.3% of UK GDP. Among them, the retail industry contributed 3,810 million to GDP. The graph below shows the total GDP of 14,170 million for each direct impact of the beauty industry. This is the result of the number divided into five components. [THE VALUE OF BEAUTY,2019] However, according to Mintel, the sales growth rate of the retail industry is expected to decrease slightly in 2019 due to the effect of Brexit.[Mintel,2019] On the other hand, the employment situation is good and the UK beauty industry employs about 370,000 people. 590,500 people work in these industries, including retailers, wholesalers, and beauty specialist advertisers. This is calculated as 1 in 60 people. [THE VALUE OF BEAUTY,2019] GDP OF BEAUTY INDUSTRY CORE SECTOR IN 2018
5000 4000
4,670£
Service
3,810£
Retailers
3,290£
Wholesalers
3000
Manufacturers
1,810£
2000 1000
Adverstising 590£
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Kiehl's is one of the L'Oreal groups. Currently, the L'Oreal Group is the world's largest cosmetic group.
36 brands
in L’OREAL
86,000
EMPLOYEES 4
23 billion £
sales in 2018
The brand 1851 1894
Store opened in New York as a dispensing pharmacy in 1851.
The store was acquired by pharmacist John Kiel.
1921
1922
Irving Morse started producing products as “Kiehl’s”, and from this time on, it provided a unique service different from the dispensing pharmacy.
A sampling service called “try before you buy” has been offered since 1922. It continues to be offered today, and according to the website, it provides customers with more than 8.5 million samples per year.
1989
Today
Kiels has been handed down for three generations. Started mail order service and overseas expansion to meet customer needs.
Since 2000, it has been part of the L’Oreal Group and now has stores in about 62 countries. Without forgetting the spirit at the time of its founding, Kiehl’s continues to support customers’ healthy skin based on the three beliefs of “Nature”, “Science” and “Service” that make up the brand’s DNA “Apothecary”. They offer products that can be used for ladies, men, and children mainly in skincare, body care, and hair care.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Physique
Personality
Unique store interior
Black and white simple logo design
Specify all ingredients on product label
The product packaging is almost the same design, and the store style is the same in every store. Even stores in department stores
Social contribution activities Recycling activities Global Women’s Rights Award
Nature
Service by staff wearing white robes
Use carefully selected natural ingredients
Relationship
Culture
‘’ TRY BEFORE YOU BUY ’’
A family-owned company with a long history of about 170 years
Sampling system by counselling to meet individual needs In order to build a long relationship with the customer, a system that can be re-purchased via text message
Original research that pursued effectiveness and safety by utilizing knowledge from the time of being a dispensing pharmacy
Reflected
Self-image Kiel’s self-image is also environmentally conscious and uses products while imagining that they want to get healthy skin quality by adopting a highly safe brand product with a long history.
Wide customer base customers range from young people to older people, men, women and children, regardless of age or gender.
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W
STRENGTH
EAKNESS
Animal experiments have not been completely abolished
Production of high-quality cosmetics with a long history of about 170 years, the use of organic products and natural ingredients, and the knowledge of medicine
Low advertising costs
‘’ TRY BEFORE YOU BUY ’
Higher product prices than some competitive brands
Social contribution activities in the fields of environmental protection, child support, AIDS research and education support under the name of Kiehl ’s GIVES
O
T
PPORTUNITY
Stores now spreading to 62 countries
HREATS
Expansion of the cosmetics industry, high competition rate
Expanding the customer base
Fast fashion also has a cosmetic brand. {FOREVER21, H&M, Bershka}
Production of cosmetics not only for women but also for children, men, and unisex
The economic impact of leaving the EU
The spread of online shops {Official online shop, Selfridge, Amazon}
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
POLITICAL
BREXIT Led by British Prime Minister Boris Johnson, If this withdrawal is realized, there is a risk that not only the price of food will rise, but also the supply of medicines and pharmaceuticals will decrease. We assume that the low-income group is extremely affected by the rise in food and fuel prices. In terms of physical distribution, there can be up to 6 months of severe disruption with continental Europe. Inauguration many protests across the UK by citizens, companies that quit business will appear, and tariffs will start, so the cost of imported raw materials will increase. [BBC,2019]
ECONOMIC If the UK leaves the EU, £ 70 billion pounds annual economic loss is expected compared to if it does not leave. If they leave without agreement with the EU, the economy may shrink by 5.6%. In addition, even if the terms of trade with the EU do not change after the withdrawal, GDP is expected to fall by 2% due to the unstable relationship between the UK and the European Union. The value of the pound is also expected to fluctuate for some time. [BBC, 2019] [The Telegraph,2019]
SOCIAL Big brands are responding to this, for example, L’Oréal now allocates 30% of its media spend to digital channels such as youtube. [campaign,2018] Marketing strategies will change as the female population changes. In the fashion market, women under the age of 35 purchase the most products, but now the female population in their 20s to early 30s and from 45 to early 50s is gradually decreasing. Therefore, it can be said that there will be a need for marketing strategies targeting even older women in the future. [Mintel Academic,2019]
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TECHNOLOGY
Technological innovation is believed to contribute significantly to cosmetic brands. Digital technology allows consumers to experience the brand in a whole new way. According to L’Oreal, “AI helps us predict and forecast market-wide trends and so serve the consumer.AI helps us connect with our consumers, allows us to personalize our approach and develop our business in line with consumers.” [campaign,2018] For example, using a virtual app, you can virtually experiment with thousands of lipstick and eyeshadow shades. Kiehl ’s has installed a tool in the store to help professionals check the level of skin hydration. In addition to hands-on technology, the development of technology to strengthen the relationship between customers and brands. Kiel uses predictive data and AI-based dynamic processing to understand when a customer may run out of what they have ordered in the past and incorporates a system that sends them to the customer in an email message prompting them to reorder The The company is now beginning to deliver the same text messages that are easy to reply to. Customer will be asked to re-purchase “Yes” or “Reminder” [DIGIDAY,2018]
ENVIRONMENT
The increasing popularity of products using natural ingredients High reputation from Millennium and Z generations 10,000 products from 794 brands are organic. This figure has increased for 8 consecutive years. [VOGUE,2019] Plastic waste generated from product containers, packages, and bags. This is one of the major causes of global warming. In the beauty industry, the plastic removal movement has begun with several brands. Lush develops solid products that no longer use bottles, and use plastic that was recycled. [LUSH,no date]
LEGAL
Brexit may change the rules of animal experiments. Animal testing of beauty products produced according to EU regulations is currently prohibited. However, this rule may be lost if the UK moves out of the EU. [BEAUTYSAUCE, 2019] Revision of customs law
[BBC,2019]
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Competitor Positioning Matrix High Price
Scientific Product
Organic ingredients This figure shows that expensive or low and also products using natural ingredients or chemical products. Comparison of Loccitane, Aesop, clinique, lush, the body shop and Kiehl ’s . In Lush, it is possible to obtain natural products at low prices. Aesop is considered to have the brand power by providing high-quality products at high prices.
Low Price
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Customer Profile Kiehl’s stores are mainly located in the centre of the city, so it seems that customers are mainly business people working in the city centre, people living in the city, and tourists.
Kiehl’s products target both men and women. Most of the products are primarily targeted at women, but there are also men’s products that use products such as moisturizers, cleansers, pre-shaves, and shavings. There are also advertisements specifically written for men. Kiehl’s accounts for 30-40% of the company’s customer base with male customers.
Also, Kiehl’s targets a wide range of age groups, from young people with acne and other skin problems to seniors looking for anti-wrinkle creams. However, because of product pricing, Kiehl’s seems to be targeting people who spend a lot of money in the middle class or cosmetics. Kiehl’s products are higher in quality and price than beauty products available at Boots.
They are looking for a safer product made from Kiehl’s natural origins, and they are more likely to be healthier than other customers.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Consumer identification
The percentage of the UK population divided by generation. Millennium generation has the most 26%, next , Gen Z and Baby Boomers are 22%, X generation 20%. The smallest number is the swing generation of 10%. [Mintel,2019]
Gen Z Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers Swing Gen
Since Kiehl’s main target is considered to be from millennium to Gen X, this section describes the shopping characteristics of Gen X and Millennium.
GENERATIONAL STRUCTURE OF THE UK POPULATION IN 2019
Millennium generation, aged 23-38, has witnessed economic collapse such as the Lehman shock and is more resistant to spending money than generation X. Also, a society wit large global warming since this era It started to become a problem and the way of thinking about the environment has changed. This generation was the first digital generation and began using apps such as Apple products and Facebook. Also, the spread of social networks will increase the chances of sharing your appearance and information, which will require makeup and beauty to make you look good. According to L'Oréal, millennials have made ”make up" the fastestgrowing category in the world. They tend to look online before buying beauty products and then go to the store to buy. For them, social media is an essential part of purchasing. From millennials, it comes to prefer natural products that are effective and highly safe and environmentally friendly. [BEAUTY PACKAGING,2018] Percentage of applications used by
the Millennials generation in 2019
86% 71% 42% 87% [THE MANIFEST,2019]
Generation X is a generation that can belong to both the millennium generation and the baby boomer generation. When they were young, they knew that many people longed for singer, supermodel, and Hollywood star, and they had memories that imitated their costumes and makeup and expressed themselves in fashion and makeup. [Preview,2017] Currently, there is also information from Millennium generations and they can get information on cosmetics and skincare used by young people. Besides, 81% of people use Facebook. Compared to the past, there are now more skincare products and more easily available anti-ageing products. Gen X women still tend to they have youthful skin and are looking for skincare products that will maintain the youthful appearance of the skin. [BEAUTY PACKAGING,2018]
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Emerging Customer Habits Shopping in instagram According to the Mintel, Instagram introduced a new “checkout” feature in the United States. This allows users to purchase items directly from the site without redirecting to the retailer's website. The UK has not yet introduced the function but is expected to introduce it later.
Personalization The customer side collects customer data and is looking for more polite and affordable shopping. 63% of consumers are interested in personalized customer service, and an additional 71% don’t value inhumane shopping. [GroundTruth,2019] Personalization in basic shopping that you can collect and use points by registering with a point card provided by the brand, and get information on discounts and benefits. As an example of a new personalization, the French cosmetic brand Sephora uses a system called Color IQ. It proposes an easy-to-match foundation by scanning customer skin and converting it into data. Also, customers can get a “Color IQ number” at a store or online, and they can purchase cosmetics that are appropriate for their skin simply by telling the number at the store or entering it on the site. Stores also have skin data for each customer, making it easier to guide appropriate products. It is also useful for the development of new products.[Sephora,no date]
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
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Key Market Drivers Marketing to Men According to a survey by Mintel, there is a possibility that the male population may increase in recent years. High fertility and long life expectancy can be a key marketing driver in the future. This will increase the opportunity for more people to see product promotions and increase the range of product sales and marketing. Men’s products in the beauty industry have increased in recent years, and sales are also proportional and are expected to rise further. In reality, however, 35% of men over the age of 65 said they were not interested in advertising, and two-thirds of men over the age of 65 said they were not interested in seeing further developments in future advertising. Advertising and sales strategies targeting older men will be a challenge for the future.
Environment Problem Recently, it seems that many cosmetic brands addressing environmental issues have increased significantly over the last few years. The specific initiative is the development of organic cosmetics, export all ingredient tables to appeal to customers for safety and reduce plastic waste. Mainly Millennium and Gen Z customers are also turning to environmentally conscious thinking. According to the website, 63% of millennium generation women should buy natural products, and 65% said they look at the ingredient list. Also, 72% said they would lose confidence in the brand if the product was not organic. [Solio association,2019] [READY,2017] In the future, it is predicted that women in the millennium generation will be more likely to spend money more on natural beauty products in the next 2 years. This is thought to have a positive impact on cosmetic brands that use natural ingredients.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
7p’s
People
All staff members called KCR who work at the Kiel’s shop will wear a lab coat. In order to provide a better service, L’Oreal training methods are used to provide staff training and learning opportunities at Kiehl’s. In the training, you will learn about customer service, products and skincare. After that, if you pass the training program, you can wear Kiehl’s original wing pins.
Physical evidence
Kieh’ls presents all the ingredients of the product online and in the product package. All package designs are the same. Because it uses natural ingredients, the package is also simple. The store concept is the same, even in stores that are in department stores. Some stores have created unique gallery-like displays, such as exhibiting motorcycles collected by the founder.
Price
Kiehl’s products are priced higher than other brands. So it can be said that it is a high brand and the customer target is high-income earners. Popular products are priced in the first half of £ 20 for cheap items and between £ 40 and £ 50 for expensive items. But Kiehl’s products are mostly made from natural ingredients, and this pricing is proportional to the value of the product. With regard to price changes, the Brexit may cause the economy to deteriorate and the price of goods to rise.
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Process
They have devised to provide services tailored to each customer while observing Kiehl’s long-standing policies “Nature”, “Science” and “Service”. Counselling to meet customer needs and introducing a machine that can check the moisture content of the skin, so it is possible to actually check at the store. Provides customers with a sampling service of over 8.5 million copies a year
Product
Kiehl’s customers demand natural safety for their products. Based on that, it is thought that all ingredients are written in the package. You can also try the product before inserting it, so you can purchase a more accurate product. It has a 28-day guarantee and can be returned if the effect is not seen.
Promotion
Advertise using Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube. It also sends texts and emails requesting repurchases. According to last year’s data, Kiehl’s has never spent more than $ 20,000 per month on mobile or display advertising. As a seasonal promotion strategy Kiehl’s is already selling Christmas gifts and products at this time. Both the package and online are designed for Christmas. It is suitable to promote using seasonal events.
Place
The first store is also in New York and has a store in the city centre. Currently, it has stores in 62 countries. British stores are mainly in the street. London is Oxford Street, Kings Cross, Liverpool Street. It also has stores in department stores such as Selfridges, Harrods and liberty. There are many places where people gather in the city. There are also stores at airports and stations where tourists gather, so it is a good place to spread products.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
AIDA
Attention
Glamour beauty festival in 2019 is an event offered by the magazine glamour and collaborated with boots. Glamour is an American fashion magazine and also one of the famous magazine brands in the UK. “Glamour” name can attract customers’ attention Event promotion activities are Instagram, Facebook and magazines.
Interest
According to the content of the advertisements on Instagram and the official website, the event space offers free sweets, and there is a shooting space for Instagram. The contents include lectures from makeup artists and beauty specialists, and also you can experience from low-priced cosmetics to high brands. It is promoting gorgeous displays that make women interested.
Desier
Participants will receive 320 £ worth of beauty products from each brand Participating in this event will also raise money for The Lady Garden Foundation, a women’s health charity. It presents the strength of being able to contribute to society by participating.
Action
It is in the form of purchasing tickets from the official website and participating. The event time is Saturday and Sunday. Both are divided in the morning and afternoon. Participants can afford to make a plan. However, the content of the lecture varies from day to day, so that you need to choose the lecture you want to go to.
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London fashion week was held in Covent Garden, where beauty brands gather in London. It is in cooperation with the British beauty council. Covent Garden is a popular place for travellers and locals to gather. If you hold an event at this place, it will be noticed by many people.
The strength of this event is that anyone can participate for free. In the main plaza “Beauty Playground”, visitors are provided with free ice cream and there are several places where you can take photos.
Activities such as roulette where high-brand products can be acquired are performed, creating an environment where products can be easily obtained. Several brands with stores in Covent Garden use this event to promote their promotions and attract customers’ interest
No ticket is required and anyone can participate. The location is in the Center of London, and the station is also close by and easy to reach. The period is 5 days including weekends and holidays, so many people can afford to come.
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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
Event launch Proposal
It is an event that you can participate for free. KCR will respond carefully to each customer, and provide services to check the condition of the skin with a machine that measures the actual product sampling and moisture content. You can purchase your favorite products on the spot. Lecture on skincare with beauty professionals and beauty YouTubers Free drinks and snacks Ornate display. Designed for the Kiel’s brand. [ex : plants image, pharmacy image.] Set up shooting spots for posting on Instagram and Facebook. Visitors can get a mini product set for travel and a 10% discount coupon for Kiel’s products Event advertisements will be advertised by sending emails or texts to customers registered in Kiel's e-mail magazine, posting them on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube ads, and some fashion magazines. Schedules are held on holidays where customers can easily come. The location is an easy-to-access store in the heart of London
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Bibiliography
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https://weareready.com/consumer-attitudes-natural-beauty/#:~:targetText=Matic%20and%20Puh%20(2015)%20found,environmental%20and%20cruelty%2Dfree%20reasons. [Accessed 13 October 2019] Khanom.R (2019) British Lifestyles: A New Understanding of Corporate Ethics Available at: https://academic.mintel.com/display/952814/?highlight#hit1 [Accessed 13 October 2019] Kiehl’s (2019) Commitments Available at: https://www.kiehls.ae/en/commitments/commitments.html [Accessed 27 October 2019] Kiehl’s (no date) 10 GREAT REASONS TO SHOP AT KIEHLS.CO.UK. Available at: https://www.kiehls.co.uk/10-great-reasons.html [Accessed 29 October 2019] Mordor Intelligence (no date) UNITED KINGDOM SKINCARE MARKET - GROWTH, TRENDS AND FORECASTS (2019 - 2024) Available at: https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/uk-professional-skincare-product-market [Accessed 31 October 2019] Morris.E (2018) Evolving Perspectives of Beauty: GenZ, Millennials and Boomers. Available at: https://www.beautypackaging.com/contents/view_experts-opinion/2018-08-02/evolving-perspectives-of-beauty-genz-millennials-and-boomers/ [Accessed 13 October 2019] Milnes.H (2016) How Color IQ, Sephora’s shade-matching skin care tool, boosts brand loyalty. DIGIDAY. March 2019. Available at: https://digiday.com/marketing/color-iq-sephoras-shade-matchingskin-care-tool-boosts-brand-loyalty/#:~:targetText=At%20Sephora%2C%20employees%20are%20equipped,a%20Sephora%20customer's%20Color%20IQ. [Accessed 13 October 2019] Mintel (2019) Instagram streamlines social-selling with a checkout option Available at: https://academic.mintel.com/display/951232/ [Accessed 1 November 2019] Mintel (2019) Marketing to Women - UK Available at: https://academic.mintel.com/display/940482/ [Accessed 4 November 2019] Page 14.Solio association (2019) Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market 2019. Available at:https://www.soilassociation.org/media/18023/soil-association-organic-beauty-and-wellbeing-report.pdf [Accessed 13 October 2019] Pathak.S (2018) How Kiehl’s is using text messages and AI to keep customers loyal. DIGDAY. January 2018. Available at: https://digiday.com/marketing/kiehls-using-text-messages-ai-keep-customers-loyal/ [Accessed 3 November 2019] Phillips.L (2019) In the flesh: how beauty is luring customers back to the high street. The Guardian. Aug 2019. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/aug/22/in-the-flesh-how-beauty-is-luring-customers-back-tothe-high-street [Accessed 13 October 2019] Robers.C. (no date) Alternatives to plastics Available at: https://uk.lush.com/article/alternatives-plastics [Accessed 22 October 2019] Sawer.P and Betts.H (2019) Impact of beauty industry on UK economy 'outstrips motor manufacturing. The telegraph. July 2019. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/07/17/impact-beauty-industry-uk-economyoutstrips-motor-manufacturing/ [Accessed 13 October 2019] Simpson.G and Craig.E (2018) How digital has changed cosmetics and what this means for consumers #1 Made for social Available at: https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/digital-changed-cosmetics-means-consumers/1463485 [Accessed 5 November 2019] Staff.R (2012) Sephora Found a High-Tech New Way to Sell You Foundation Available at: https://ny.racked.com/2012/7/30/7718199/sephora-unveils-the-color-iq [Accessed 22 October 2019] The Telegraph (2019)What are the taxes for expats in the UK? The telegraph.October 2019 Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/financial-services/currency-exchange/international-money-transfers/expat-taxes-uk/ [Accessed 15 October 2019] Tyler.R (2012) L'Oreal spreads Kiehl's across the UK Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/yourbusiness/9096282/LOreal-spreads-Kiehls-across-the-UK.html [Accessed 12 October 2019] VOGUE JP (2019) Kielh's Available at: https://www.vogue.co.jp/tag/kiehls [Accessed 13 October 2019] Welch.M (2016) Kiehl's expands store and men's grooming products. ATJ.Atlanta.News.Now. Available at: https://www.ajc.com/lifestyles/shopping/kiehl-expands-store-and-men-grooming-products/o7brAGpkTlFK53iACQrwnL/#:~:targetText=About%2018%20percent%20of%20Kiehl's,according%20to%20Salgardo%2C%20 that's%20significant.
[Accessed 13 October 2019]
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Figure Reference Amazon (no date) ”Botanical silhouette sticker” [logo]. Available at: https://www.amazon.co.jp/nc-smile-%E3%83%9C%E3%82%BF%E3%83%8B%E3%82%AB%E3%83%AB-%E3%82%B7%E3%83%AB%E3%82%A8%E3%83%8 3%E3%83%88-%E3%82%B9%E3%83%86%E3%83%83%E3%82%AB%E3%83%BC-%E3%83%87%E3%82%B6%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3-1B/dp/B01M3SVPY6 [Accessed 13 October 2019] AHLAN LIVE(2015) “KIEHL'S STORE OPENING IN MERCATO MALL” [online]. Available at: https://www.ahlanlive.com/photos/kiehlss-562365.html?page=17&img=16 [Accessed 13 October 2019] Artzone (no date) “Premium Stock Photo of Organic Corner Frame” [online]. 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Fashion Retail and PR - KIEHL’S
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