nagazasshi
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See the Sights Kyushu Travel Guide
Events | Japanese Alcohol | Blood Types | Beat Takeshi nagazasshi â March/April 2012
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nagazasshi Volume 6 Issue 1 July/August 2013
Editor-in-chief Audrey Akcasu
Deputy Editor Qi Yang
Assistant Editors Douglas Bonham Matthew Jones
Copy Editor Jasmine Francois
Japanese Editor Asami Kobayashi
Treasurer
Susan Fogarty
Layout and Design Douglas Bonham Laurel Williams
Contributors Hannah Conklin Katelyn Schwartz Hiroko Shirayama Niel Thompson
Founders
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.nagazasshi.com
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Cover photo: Yakushima, Kagoshima by Remco Vrolijk
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tsukabai! æãã°ãïŒ
Have you been hearing this around lately? Itâs Nagasaki dialect for âItâs so hot!â That only means one thing: We are in the thick of a hot, humid summer. The pools are open, the kids are (almost) out of school, the cicada chorus is humming non-stop and the scent of yakitori fills the air. Summer. With Marine Day (7/15) and the Obon holidays, summer is a great time to explore Nagasaki and our fellow Kyushu prefectures (Pg 10). Like Nagasaki, our neighbors are also bursting with scenic views, cool attractions, and famous foods. If you donât feel like venturing out, Nagasaki still has lots to offer in the summer months. If you get tired of the festivals (but really, who gets tired of fireworks?), there are plenty of beaches and other events (Pg 4). If you do head out this summer here are some tips: - Wear sunscreen. Maybe you donât need UV-blocking long-sleeve shirts and parasols, but at least remember your sunscreen! - Donât swim in the ocean during or after Obon. Take this as Japanese folklore if you will, but jellyfish are not forgiving. - Use katori senko (èåãç·éŠ) to keep the mosquitoes at bay. - Use joshitsuzai (é€æ¹¿å€) to keep your house a little drier. - Wipe down your shower room often to prevent molding. - Donât forget your sweat towel! Enjoy the summer!
Audrey Akcasu, Editor-in-chief March/April 2012 â nagazasshi
photo flickr.com/ 25516401@N05
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Contents Events
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Umeshu in the Morning
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Blood Type and Love
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Kyushu Travel Guide
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The Two Faces of Beat Takeshi
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Kanji of the Month
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A primer on Japanese booze
Know your As, Bs, and Os of romance Staff recommendations on where to go from Saga to Kagoshima and back Bilingual introduction to the famous Japanese film director
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nagazasshi | July/August 2013
photo Remco Vrolijk
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Event of the Month Dragon Boat Races July 27-28, Nagasaki City In this exciting event that dates back 350 years, 26-member teams race special longboats in Nagasaki Bay to the beat of a gong and drum. You can catch many races throughout the day and also try out rowing a dragon boat.
Events Isahaya Mando Festival July 25, Isahaya Start the festival season out right in Isahaya by honoring the victims of the 1957 flood. Over10,000 candles will illuminate the riverbed, while a great fireworks show and the usual festival food and attractions will entertain you. Gion Yamakasa Festival July 27-28, Iki Ikiâs summer attractions donât end with the pristine beaches; theyâve been hosting this boisterous festival for over 270 years. A parade of men carrying huge portable shrines snakes through the streets in honor of Yamakasa, who ended a sickness that plagued the area long ago. Marine Festa July 27-28, Minami Shimabara Kuchinotsu harbor, a famous historical port, will light up this weekend with tons of activities, such as a fishing boat parade, traditional arts, a brass band competition, sailing experience and best of all, dolphin watching. The event concludes with a vivid fireworks show. Hamagurihama Beach Festival July 13-14, Minami Matsuura This two-day beach party promises beautiful beaches, warm water, treasure hunts, a sandcastle-making experience, competitions and games for kids, and more. Shimabara Water Festival Early August, Shimabara City Starting along the samurai house waterway, bamboo lanterns light the path of this nagazasshi | July/August 2013
whimsical festival celebrating the fresh spring water and brief revival opening of Kanzarashi âSilver Waterâ shop, after a ten-year hiatus. Nagoshi Festival August 1-3, Omura Kicking off this three-day festival is a spectacular fireworks show, but the real excitement is during the following two days. Donât miss the taiko and dance performances, which conclude with a line of over 2,000 dancers parading through the street in unison. Seaside Festival August 3-4, Sasebo Kyushuâs biggest fireworks display is a mustsee for hanabi lovers. In the daytime you can participate in beach volleyball and other sports contests or just enjoy the performances and festivities. Hatsubon (Obon) Festival August 15, Nagasaki City As dusk approaches, a long parade of floats is marched down the main streets of Nagasaki toward the sea to cast off the souls of the yearâs deceased. While it may sound like a solemn event, Nagasaki does it loud and lively, with copious firecrackers and amusing floats. Sentoro Festival Emukae August 23-24, Emukae Not only is this festival famous for its 10,000 lanterns and 25 m high lantern tower (the tallest in Japan), but also its secondary Mizukakejizou festival, where children carry portable shrines honoring Jizou, while getting drenched in water. The crowd is not spared, so be prepared!
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Not sure whatâs in your glass? Let Katelyn Schwartz take you on a tour of alcohol in Japan
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t was about 4:30 in the morning when my jetlag refused to allow me any more sleep. With nothing else to do, I decided to make a nice nutritional breakfast. I made beautiful sunny-side-up eggs, buttered toast, and to top it off, a refreshing glass of juice.
poured myself a nice big glass and dove right into my breakfast. As I was sipping my new Japanese juice, I detected an odd, yet familiar note on my palate. It had that slight blowback sting of whisky, yet the fruity sweetness of it led me to dismiss any hints of alarm. As I finished my breakfast (and my juice) I was ready to get going. It was going to be a fantastic second day at work, I could just tell.
photo flickr.com/davidooms
Umeshu in the Morning
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Everything seemed wonderful, but then The girl who One of the things she I just wanted to nap had my job left was a carton of what to rid myself of a and apartment I could only presume was slight headache. As before me had fruit juice... I arrived home that done a bit of evening, I decided shopping and to further investigate this mystery juice. I left some food, so I wouldnât starve inquired with my neighbor what particuwhen I arrived. One of the things she lar sort of juice it was that I had so freely left me was a carton of what I could ingested that very morning. She looked at only presume was fruit juice, given the the carton and just laughed, âYou see this tantalizing illustrations of plums. I had kanji down here? This means alcohol. This no real idea what it was. Prior to arrivis umeshu, plum wine, my friend.â ing in Japan, I had no concept of what the country, its culture, its people, or its Navigating alcohol in Japan can be a bit food was like. tricky. Hereâs a nice little guide to learn your shus. New land, new culture⊠new juice? I
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July/August July/August 2013 2013 | | nagazasshi nagazasshi
çŒé (shouchuu)
ããŒã« (beer) and çºæ³¡é (happoushu) Real beer, typically referred to as nama (ç), contains at least 67% malt. It is like beer anywhere in the world, but a bit on the lighter side. Real beer will always say ããŒã« on the can or label. Happoushu is a low-malt beer-like drink that is sold at a lower price. It has less than 25% malt and is taxed lower than actual beer.
Shouchuu is like Japanese vodka. It can be made from rice, sweet potatoes, wheat, sugar cane or a variety of other bases depending on what is famous locally. The alcohol content is usually 20-40% and is typically served mixed with hot or ice water, fruit juice, sparkling water, or oolong tea. This tends to be more popular than nishonshu on Kysuhu.
æ¥æ¬é (nihonshu)
ãã¥ãŠã〠(chuhai)
Nihonshu is what the West typically calls sake; however, in Japan, the umbrella term for all alcohol is sake. The alcohol content is usually 10-20% and can be drunk hot or cold.
Chuhai is shouchuu mixed with soda water and fruit flavor. The alcohol content is usually 3-8%. Donât confuse them for soda pop, as they are dangerously delicious. In restaurants youâll often seen these drinks as âsours,â ãµã¯ãŒ (sawa).
â
She looked at the carton and just laughed. âThis means alcohol. This is umeshu, plum wine, my friendâ
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æ¢ é (umeshu) Umeshu is commonly called plum wine in the West; however, it is not wine at all. It is white liquor soaked in Japanese plums and sugar for a minimum of three to six months. The alcohol content is usually 12-16% and is typically drunk on the rocks or mixed with soda water. It is commonly made at home in the spring. Ask around and you can find someone to teach you how to make it, too. If you canât remember all the different alcohols, at least remember this kanji: é . It means alcohol. If you see it, I highly recommend not drinking it right before going to work. n
photo flickr.com/soniat360
nagazasshi nagazasshi | | July/August July/August 2013 2013
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What does your blood type say about you and your future love prospects? Niel Thompson brings some insight on this aspect of Japanese culture
Type Aâs are the main characters in romance stories. They are calm, collected, shy, and are generally honest. They are often secretive and usually come off as very strong-willed, when in truth they are very nervous. They are lightweights and can be very belligerent when drunk.
P
Type Bâs are those annoying people in your class who were good at everything and anything they got around to trying. They are very passionate and curious about a lot of things. This causes them to have the attention span of a six year old. They are extremely individualistic and often donât care about what other people think of them. They can be selfish, unpredictable, and lazy.
eople will often tell you that the best way to know if someone is right for you is to talk to them, get to know their values and who they are, and be honest about what you want in a relationship. Who has time for that? I know I donât, which is why when I want to know my compatibility with someone, I steal some of their blood and send it off for testing to learn their blood type. Knowing a personâs blood type is a much simpler and less convoluted way of determining compatibility.
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Type Oâs are the people who manage to win every election even though nobody has any idea what their platform was, but do remember that they have a charming smile and really great hair.
July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
photo flickr.com/european_parliament
Blood Type and Love
marriageâŠprobably. They are the natural politicians and athletes of the world. They love bePeople of the Type AB persuasion ing the center of attention and often donât have this problem. They can have control the dynamics and workings a successful relationship with anyone. of any group they are a part of. They Type ABâs are the bipolars of the world. are generally loveable like Mr. RogThey have a different persona for both ers, but unlike Mr. Rogers, they can the people they also make huge Knowing a perare close to and gambles that can sonâs blood type is a much the rest of the turn into large simpler and less convoworld. They are mistakes. They luted way of determining friendly, considcan be greedy, erate, and kind, clumsy, and loud- compatibility but also easily mouthed. offended and prone to cause conflict. All the above blood types are most Knowing the implications of both your compatible with people of a similar own blood type and your love interestâs genetic disposition. Any attempt to will help you to not waste time in the contaminâŠI mean, mix the blood types will result in a long and unhappy dating scene and ensure a happy ending. n
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KUMON HAIKI CENTER
Letâs study
Japanese
the most effective way!
nagazasshi | | March/April January/February nagazasshi 2013 2013
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ïš
Instructor Kiyoko Hayashi
ï
2-19-22 Haiki Sasebo City Nagasaki
ï©
090-7162-7577
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kuumons@ mtf.biglobe.ne.jp
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Kyushu Travel Guide SAGA â äœè³ Our friendly neighbor to the east, Saga Prefecture, is easy to look past when making travel plans. After all, itâs one of the smallest prefectures in all of Japan and full of nothing but farmland. Right? Maybe not -- thereâs plenty to explore.
If youâre looking for a summer getaway, no need to stray far from home. Nagasakiâs neighboring prefectures offer a variety of fun and delicious options. Let Nagazasshiâs staff guide you to your next adventure
those looking for onsen, Ureshino City is a must-visit. The two most famous festivals in Saga are both in the fall: the Saga International Balloon Festival and Karatsu Kunchi. Hundreds of hot-air balloons fill up the autumn skies at the world-famous balloon
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photo flickr.com/ma ri-ten
First and foremost is the Yoshinogari Historical Park in the town of Kanzaki. The ruins located there, spread throughout three current towns, provide one of the best glimpses at ancient Yayoi-era Japanese life. The park is open year-round and is a great spot for Japanese history buffs. If youâre into traditional arts, the towns of Arita and Imari are the birthplace of some of the most famous Japanese pottery. For July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
photo flickr.com/buck82
Below left: Yoshinogari Historical Park in Saga. Above: Squint and you can see yatai lining the river near Tenjin in Fukuoka festival near Saga City starting in late October. Karatsu Kunchi is arguably the most-attended festival in Saga. Groups from each of the traditional neighborhoods of Karatsu pull huge floats from the 19th century. Being an agriculture-based prefecture also has its perks. Saga is famous for its green tea, soybeans and soybean products, like tofu. Head to Ogi for a very special treat of carp é¯ (koi) sashimi. Saga may be small and it may be rural, but it has its charms.
FUKUOKA â çŠå²¡ Fukuoka Prefecture is home to the largest city in Kyushu. Fukuoka City began as a prosperous port city, and when it merged with Hakata in 1889, it became the grand Fukuoka we know today. nagazasshi | July/August 2013
The city is still a place of international exchange, hosting monthly events and shows from artists and performers from all over the world. Be sure to visit the Fukuoka Art Museum in Ohori Park and while youâre there, enjoy the beautifully designed landscape. Fukuoka boasts two major shopping areas, Tenjin and the Canal City mall, where you can find the latest fashion trends. You can also get a great view of the city from Fukuoka Tower and watch baseball or a concert at Fukuoka Dome. For the history buffs, visit the Fukuoka Castle Ruins, Dazaifu or Shofukuji, Japanâs first Zen temple. Fukuoka is famous for its yatai (food stalls) along the Tenjin and Nakasu streets. Enjoy Japanâs version of street food and lively conversation while sitting under the night stars. This city is also famous for Hakata tonkotsu ramen (pork rib noodles), so try Ippudo and Ichiran for a taste.
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KUMAMOTO â çæ¬ Kumamoto Prefecture, located in central Kyushu, is home to one of Japanâs most popular mascots, Kumamon. It possesses both mountainous and coastal regions, making it a diverse place in which to explore Kyushuâs natural beauty. The most popular tourist attraction is Mt. Aso, an active aqueous sulfur volcano. The Aso area is great for hiking, rolling green pastures, and delicious dairy products from the local livestock. Also, be sure to visit the expansive grounds of Kumamoto Castle. With the scent of 600 year-old cinnamon trees and cherry blossoms it is the perfect place to visit in the spring. For an active tour, climb the longest stone staircase in Japan, all 3,333 steps. The hike for æ¥æ¬äžã®ç³æ®µ (nihon ichino ishidan) takes about two hours at a steady pace and includes a stone marker and a great view of Kumamoto at the top. Those who love beaches may visit Amakusa (倩è). This
island to the west of mainland Kumamoto is famous for dolphin watching and beautiful coastal scenery. You can enjoy kayaking, diving, surfing or just laying out. Kumamotoâs special eats include 銬åºã (basashi), raw horse meat, èŸåã¬ã³ã³ã³ (karashi renkon), lotus root stuffed with raw horse meat and spicy mustard, and è± éªšã©ãŒã¡ã³ (tonkotsu ramen), Kumamotoâs own version of boiled pork rib noodles.
OITA â 倧å Oita Prefecture is home to two sites of extreme natural beauty: the Harajiri Falls and the Inazumi underwater caves. The Harajiri Falls are ranked among Japanâs top 100 waterfalls, and the view from the top is breathtaking. Then there are the Inazumi limestone caves. The unique shape of the caves maintains a comfortable swimming temperature, as well as a fantastic vista, all year round.
photo Remco Vrolijk
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July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
MIYAZAKI â å®®åŽ
photo beppu-nav i.jp
Left: The rolling plains of Kumamoto from Mt. Aso. Above: Local dishes in Beppu, Oita. Below: Takachiho Gorge in Miyazaki Many of Oitaâs cities have lovingly restored castle towns to visit, and these provide excellent sightseeing opportunities. For the more spiritual visitors, Rakanji Temple, on Mt. Rakan has almost 4,000 different Buddha statues. It is said that amongst these, there will be one that looks like you. Also the stone Buddhas in Usuki are well regarded and 59 of them have been declared national treasures.
Miyazaki Prefecture, located in the southeast corner of Kyushu, is the perfect destination for a summer getaway. Setting it apart from the other prefectures is Takachiho-kyo, a stunning gorge located in the northwest of the prefecture. The remarkable cliffs, surrounding foliage, and sparkling water of the Gokase River make for a really spectacular view. For 2,000 yen, you can rent a three-person boat for 30 minutes and get a close-up view of the cliffs and Minainotaki waterfall. Or you can explore by following a path along the edge of the gorge and leads to a local shrine. Traveling further south, you will find Aoshima, a tiny island connected by a
Finally, on the third Sunday of every month, you can rent traditional kimonos in the town of Kitsuki. Any visitor who is wearing a kimono will have free access to all public tourist spots. From the gourmet Kokonoe Yume burger and bungo beef, to a variety of cold noodle dishes for those warm summer months, Oita has the die-hard foodie covered. Beppu, a city famous for its onsens, has its own specialty: Jikoku mushi, seafood, vegetables or pork cooked in the steam vents from the onsens. nagazasshi | July/August 2013
Vrolijk photo Remco
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Sakurajima in Kagoshima bridge to the mainland, just south of Miyazaki city. Explore Oni no Sentakuita, or Devilâs Washboard, a natural formation of basalt rock surrounding the island. Nearby shops sell local specialties, such as mango, charcoal-grilled yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), and cheese manju (steamed bread). A 40-kilometer drive south of the city will bring you to Udo-jingu, a shrine uniquely placed in a cliff-side cave overlooking the ocean. For a small fee, you can purchase some undama, small ceramic balls, which visitors can throw at a target for good luck.
KAGOSHIMA â 鹿å 島 Located on Kyushuâs southern tip, Kagoshimaâs diverse scenery, rich history and mouthwatering delicacies make it a perfect summer destination for hikers,
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photo Jon Arnouts
history buffs and foodies alike. The 2011 extension of the Kyushu shinkansen (bullet train) has made it even easier to explore. Home to Sakurajima, one of Japanâs most active volcanic islands and Kirishima, honeymoon spot of samurai Ryoma Sakamoto, Kagoshima hardly lacks in tourist hot spots. This summer, however, try escaping to the stunning islands off Kagoshimaâs southern coast. Both Tanegashima and Amami Island beckon surfers with beautiful beaches and some of Japanâs best reef breaks. Many will skip these islands because of the required travel, but consequently miss out on some of Japanâs best surf and surfing atmosphere. For a different kind of adventure, you canât beat Yakushima. Take the hike to Jomon Sugi, kayak at the foot of a waterfall, or July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
stargaze while relaxing in a seaside hot spring. Regardless of what itinerary you choose, this World Heritage Island never falls short of unforgettable. On top of ravishing nature, Kagoshima adds great dining. Kurobuta é»è± (literally, black pork) has put Kagoshima on the map as a culinary prefecture with popular variations such as shabu-shabu and tonkatsu. However, shirokuma, a Kagoshima classic, is arguably Japanâs top summer treat. The origin of this fruit-filled variation of shaved ice, Mujaki, is conveniently located within the shopping district of Tenmonkan, so stop there for a delicious break from Japanâs brutal summer heat and be sure to ship some home so you can enjoy a taste of Kagoshima even after youâve left. n
nagazasshi | July/August 2013
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The Two Faces of Beat Takeshi ã ïœ ã ã ã ã ã® äº è¶³ ã® è é
Hiroko Shirayama on the critically acclaimed and multitalented Beat Takeshi
H
ave you ever heard the phrase âNisoku no warajiâ? It has the same meaning as âwearing two hats,â and it describes a person who has talents in two areas. It is the best phrase to describe Takeshi Kitano, who is a Japanese film director and comedian commonly known as Beat Takeshi. He began his career as a comedian with Beat Kiyoshi as a comedy duo. Kitano and his partner are important in the history of Japanese comedy because they led the manzai (two-man comedy act) boom in the 1970s.
He has acted in many films, but in 1989 he directed his first film, Violent Cop. After his directing debut, his films were acclaimed not only in Japan, but in many countries. For example, A Scene at the Sea (1991) and The Blind Swordsman: Zatoichi (2003) won prizes at the Japanese Academy Awards. One of his most successful films, HANA-BI (1998) earned the Golden Lion Award at the Venice International Film Festival. The fans of his works call themselves âKitanists,â and their number is especially great in France. There are many adjectives to describe his
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films including violent, unique, silent, funny, and critical. His films let us think deeply, and this is exactly what makes Kitano Takeshi different from other directors and allows him to attract a wide audience. When we compare his films to others, especially Hollywood films, we notice that the characters in Kitanoâs films do not talk much. This is why many people describe his films as silent. This is one of the techniques Kitano uses to make us think about his film topics deeply. In his third film, A Scene at the Sea, the two main characters are both hearing and seeing impaired. It forces us to guess at what they are thinking and feeling from only what we see. This also happens in real life, especially in Japan with its very high-context culture. It is this culture in which people value what is not spoken, such as atmosphere, facial expression, or social hierarchy, more than what is spoken. From this perspective, Kitanoâs films seem to be very Japanese and real.
Also, films usually draw us into their world, but Kitanoâs do not. Generally speaking, films make the audience identify with the main characters. However, Kitano often uses very long shots so that the camera does not focus on his charactersâ facial expressions. This is also a unique technique of Kitanoâs to make the audience think deeply. We do not lose ourselves in Kitanoâs films, July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
photo flickr.com/beatmojo
Beat Takeshi in his film HANA-BI but watch them very calmly and objectively from the perspective of the third person. This allows us to think critically. For an example of this, we can look again at A Scene at the Sea. After a scene in which the two main characters (who are a couple) get back together after an argument, they are sitting on the sea wall. It seems romantic, but soon after that, a man riding a bicycle falls into the sea and breaks the mood. This scene seems to be poking fun at other romantic films, or pulling us out of our absorption in the film. The romantic atmosphere is broken by the man riding his bicycle and we watch this scene from a third personâs view, totally as a detached member of the audience. Kitano is a rather unique man in Japan, who plays big roles not only as a comedian, but also as a film director. His style of directing, such as using silence and making the audience an objective third person, makes his films outstanding. nagazasshi | July/August 2013
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July/August 2013 | nagazasshi
nagazasshi | July/August 2013
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A short walk from Sasebo Station
Nomihoudai party plans available
The best Mexican food in Nagasaki Open
Contact www.mikes-sasebo.com 0956-24-2704
Address é·åŽçäœäžä¿åžäžäº¬çº4-8
17.00-22.00 11.30-14.00 Sat/Sun
Sasebo, Shimokyo-cho 4-8
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Sa
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Homemade salsa and guacamole
x Family Mart
International beers and specialty margaritas
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Taco Salad
Hungry Hombre Special