nagazasshi 2
10. Issue
Sep/ Oct ‘17
Escape the City
nagazasshi Issue 2 Volume 10 September/October 2017
Director
Dominic Balasuriya
Editor-in-chief Will Tiley
Editors
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi
Copy Editor Will Powell
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Public Relations Melisa Ferrigno
Contributors Dominic Balasuriya Dan Cohen Joseph Madamesila Hannah Martin Will Morgan Dylan Nordstrom Michelle Poirson Will Tiley Remco Vrolijk
Founders Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.issuu.com/nagazasshi nagazasshi@gmail.com cover photo Joseph Madamesila
G
reetings, one and all. My name is Will, and I’m very excited to be taking over as Editor in Chief. I want to thank you regular readers for your continued support and welcome all of you who might be picking up a Nagazasshi for the first time! Autumn in Nagasaki is pretty hard to beat. During the summer heat, it can be hard to stray too far from air conditioning and shade. However, once the humidity and temperature have backed off a bit, conditions are perfect for getting outside and exploring. We have information on homestay programs around the prefecture (pg 6), and for those who really want to get out and close to nature, why not check out our guide to some of the finest campsites Nagasaki has to offer (pg 12). For those who prefer a few more creature comforts, fear not! Page 14 has our top tips for cozy cabins. Also in this issue, let us guide you through a perfect day out on Tsushima (pg 8). This unique island is in fact closer to Korea than Kyushu, making it a fascinating place to explore and soak up some island ambience. Lastly, we introduce you to a new feature looking at some of the Japanese hobbies that foreign Nagasaki-ites have taken up. In this issue, we look at the ancient art of sado, or tea ceremony (pg 10). Anyway, enough of my rambling‌ Happy reading! Will Tiley
Editor-in-Chief
photo Will Tiley
CONTENTS Events
4
Homestay Experiences
6
A Day Out in Tsushima
8
My Japanese Hobby
10
Nagasaki Under Canvas
12
Nihongo on the Go
15
Life in Rural Nagasaki
Explore Nagasaki's farthest Island
Learn about sado: Japanese Tea Ceremony Get out into nature, with minimal hassle
Event of the Month
Nagasaki Kunchi Oct 7-9, Nagasaki City Come and witness one of Nagasaki’s most famous festivals, with magnificent floats and performances. Kunchi blends Japanese culture with Chinese and Western traditions, seen in the traditional regalia and Chinese-influenced dragon dances. Performances are held throughout the day and well into the evening. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/111 photo Remco Vrolijk
Nonnoko Isahaya Festival Sept 16-17, Isahaya City This yearly event celebrates the lives of those who have passed on. Friends and family of the deceased construct spirit boats in which to carry the souls of their loved ones. Processions are held and the sound of firecrackers echoes through the streets. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/
Events
event/50370/
Takengei Fox Performance Oct 14-15, Wakamiya Inari Shrine, Nagasaki City With a history dating back to the 1800s, watch as performers wearing fox masks scale a 10m pole and perform traditional acrobatics. The acrobats mimic the movements and natural grace of Japan’s mischievous foxes, accompanied by traditional music. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/682
Onigi Terraced Rice Paddy Festival Sep 23, Hasami Machi Walk between the tiered rice paddies and take in the display of locally-made scarecrows. Harvest edamame beans and take part in a non-competitive 2km walk (small fee applies), or try a delicious country stew. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/
Yosakoi Sasebo Festival Oct 20-22, Sasebo City Come and see this high-energy dance festival as Yosakoi Sasebo celebrates its 20th anniversary. Over 170 teams from around Japan will be performing around the city in colorful costumes, doing spectacular dance routines. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/113
event/51268/
Mid-Autumn Moon Festival Sept 30-Oct 4, Chinatown, Nagasaki City Gaze up and admire the moon while munching on delicious mooncakes. Nagasaki’s Chinatown will be decorated with over 1,000 lamps and a traditional altar. Enjoy various performances and a stamp rally for a chance to win tasty prizes. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/668
19th Nagasaki International Festival Oct 29 10:00-3:00, Nagasaki City The Nagasaki International Association hosts this international festival with the aim of bringing the local and international communities closer in this crosscultural exchange. There will be a variety of booths selling handicrafts and foods, and groups talking about the work they do within Nagasaki. The Nagazasshi will also have a booth so come and say hi! 8 www.nia.or.jp
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Homestay Experiences Life in Rural Nagasaki
Enjoy the slow life and swap a regular hotel for a chance to experience rural life in Japan. These homestay experiences are a chance to see a side of Japan that doesn’t get written in about in guidebooks. Spend a night or two living with a local family, help them prepare a traditional home-cooked meal, and take part in farming, fishing, or even Japanese green tea making. It’s the perfect chance to experience quintessential Japanese hospitality or omotenashi, as well as the local history.
Higashi-Sonogi – Green Tea Tourism Experience the magic of tea in Higashi-Sonogi, famous for its high-quality green tea, as you stay with a farming family. Take a guided tour of the hillside tea-fields, some with breathtaking views of Omura Bay, or learn how to brew the perfect cup of green tea with a certified instructor. To complete your green tea experience, try matchainspired food and gifts at local cafes and shops. Also, don’t miss the sunset at the photogenic JR Chiwata station, with its rustic station building right beside the sea. 8 greentea-homestay.com/
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟
Available in: English: 8 visit-nagasaki.com Español: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/es/ Français: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/fr/ Italiano: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/it/ Nederlands: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/nl/
ENDLESS DISCOVERY
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
Photos pg 6 & background Dylan Nordstrom; pg 7 Dominic Balasuriya (top), Will Tiley (bottom)
Matsuura and Hirado – Matsuura-tou no Sato Nothing beats catching your own fish and cooking it for dinner in Matsuura and Hirado. In addition to rod-and-line fishing from a boat, get the chance to go out with real fishermen and experience net-fishing or octopus-fishing. Other outdoor experiences include horseback riding on a white-sand beach and sea-kayaking, while indoor activities include preparing local food like pressed sushi, champon, or soba noodles from scratch. Experienced instructors conduct these experiences, rather than the host family themselves, so it’s possible to select the experience of your choice.
While in the area, take the time to visit the many historical sites on offer in Hirado, including Hirado Castle and the Dutch Trading Post. 8 www.honmono-taiken.jp/ 8 visit-nagasaki.com/
AreaGuide/#Hirado
Minami-Shimabara City Located in the south-east of Nagasaki, on the Shimabara Peninsula, choose to stay with farming, fishing, or forestryrelated host families. Experiences will vary by both season and host, but can include vegetable harvesting, fishing, or preparing local food. The host families conduct the experiences themselves, allowing you to spend more time with them and to see what their homes and farms are really like. While on the Shimabara Peninsula, don’t miss the famous hot springs and hells of Unzen and the beautiful Shimabara Castle. n 8 himawari-kankou.jp/homestay/ 8 visit-nagasaki.com/
AreaGuide/#Shimabara
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A Day Out in....
Tsushima
C1 D2
A visit to Tsushima is well-worth the trip. Take in the great outdoors, sample the local delicacies, and enjoy the unspoiled beauty of one of Nagsasaki’s most beautiful and remote islands.
3
54 km 1 hr 20 mins
〒 Toyotamachō Nii, 55
photos Dominic Balasuriya
1 Watatsumi Shrine Dedicated to a sea god, this shrine is notable for its torii (shrine gates) that seem to float in the sea. At low tide, it’s possible to walk out to them.
B 1 27 km 40 mins
2
2 Tsushima Eco Tours – Sea Kayaking Experienced guides will take you out into the calm waters of Aso Bay, with its hidden shrines and uninhabited islands. Half or full-day tours, and guided hikes of nearby mountain trails are available.
5B C2
5C 5A
seakayak.kacchell-tsushima.net 〒 Mitsushimachō Mikata, 29 8
D1
12 km 25 mins
Camping Opportunities camp-tsushima.jp/ index_en.html 8
A
4
3 Horseriding – Taishu Horses Only the size of a pony, Taishu Horses are unique to Tsushima, and only fewer than 50 horses remain. Riding experiences include a guided walk along a riverside trail. Beginners welcome. A weight limit of 70kg applies.
〒 Kamiagata-cho, Seta. Meboro Dam Horseriding Park
Feeling Hungry? A Minato Sushi Eat the freshest local sashimi as well as Tsushima’s specialty, Tonchan (marinated, flame-grilled pork).
〒 Kamitsushimacho Hitakatsu 1006 ( 0920-86-3710
B Anago-Tei Specializes in delicious Sea Eel (Anago), a locally-caught delicacy.
〒 Toyotamacho Nii, 2091-3 ( 0920-58-1661
C Soba Dojo Traditionally made Tsushima-soba and uniquely chewy Rokube noodles. C1 〒 Kamiagata-cho Sasuna, Kō, 565-2 4 Miuda Beach Ranked as one of the most beautiful beaches in Japan, Miuda Beach is worth the drive up north.
〒 Kamitsushimacho Nishidomari
( 0920-84-2340
C2 〒 Mitsushimachō Kechi Otsu 461−6 ( 0920-54-8311
D Tsushima Burger Burgers with meat and locally caught squid. A Tonchan-burger is available at the Izuhara location. D1 〒 Izuhara-cho, Otebashi 1052 ( 0920-52-0873
D2 〒 Kamitsushima-cho Hitakatsu 850 ( 090-8289-3185
Getting there...
FUK
North Hitakatsu Port
NAG
South Izuhara Port
ANA 30 mins 4/day
Fukuoka Airport
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ORC/ ANA 35 mins 4/day
Nagasaki Airport
5 Hiking & Mountain Climbing 5A Mt Shimizu, Izuhara A short, easy hike that can be completed in less than an hour. See the ruins of Shimizu Castle and panoramic views of the port town of Izuhara. 5B Mt. Jyouyama, Mitsushima A 2 hour round trip, this moderate-level climb will reward you with sweeping views of the Aso Bay and the chance to see castle ruins. 5C Mt. Shiratake, Mitsushima The spiritual heart of Tsushima, this peak has a very difficult ascent, with the final section involving ropes. A guide (e.g. Tsushima Eco Tours) is recommended.
Tsushima Airport
Jetfoil 2 hrs 1/day Ferry 4.5 hrs 2/day
Ferry 5.5 hrs 1/day
Hakata Port (Fukuoka)
9
My Japanese Hobby
Sado
In this new feature, we will be exploring some of the Japanese hobbies that foreign Nagasaki residents have fallen in love with. To kick things off, Hannah Martin tells us all about the calming and refined art of sado, or tea ceremony.
W
ould you like a cup of tea?
This phrase has been a regular feature since my childhood when my Irish granny first taught me how to make tea. Her preferences fascinated and exasperated me but more importantly introduced me to the art of tea. It’s not surprising that I started taking sado lessons when I came to Japan.
The basic sado items are the following:
What is sado? Sado is the Japanese tradition of preparing, serving, and drinking tea. It’s fancy, meticulous and geared toward someone with good seiza , the notoriously difficult Japanese sitting style.
楊枝 懐紙 帛紗 古帛紗 茶巾 茶碗 柄杓 蓋置 釜 水指 建水 棗 茶杓 茶筅
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yōji kaishi fukusa kobukusa chakin chawan hishaku futaoki kama mizusashi kensui natsume chashaku chasen
snack utensil snack napkins silk cloth decorative cloth linen cloth tea bowl ladle lid rest kettle cold water pot waste bowl tea caddy tea scoop tea whisk
Sounds expensive, but a student only buys the first four items (about ¥4,000). Everything else is provided by your sado teacher. What’s a first lesson like? Your first lesson will probably start with how to fold the silk cloth. Everyone wants to whisk matcha into a bubbly froth, but that whisk and bowl need to be cleaned first. The silk cloth is one of the most important tools because it cleans most of the items and is folded in a special way for each one. After that, you’ll do a round of tea ceremony with the teacher and add new steps with each lesson. Sado changes with each month, which means the serving set-up changes frequently. You’ll be ladling boiling water from a floating kettle one class and opening a cabinet shaped like hinamatsuri (doll festival) mochi the next. How do I find a class? Ask your school(s) or friends about sado classes. I started because my friend inviting me to watch her class. Now, we take classes together for ¥1,000 (per person) for two hours with each person practicing twice. Anything else? After studying for seven months, I like sado even more because it’s a beautiful summary of many Japanese traditions. The kimonos, calligraphy, flower arrangement, and food all work together to make the sado experience. It’s so much more than just preparing a cup of tea. n
photos Michelle Poirson
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QUEEN KEBAB
QueenKebab.Sasebo
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queenkebab_sasebo
Nagasaki Under Canvas 2km
Now that we have escaped the steamy furnace of Japanese summer, the weather is perfect for getting outdoors and spending a few nights under canvas. Whether you want forests, beaches or mountains, the Nagazasshi team has the campsite for you! And for the more discerning adventurers, well-equipped cabins are available to rent as well.
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Tsutsukihama Camping Ground, Iki Island Many people dream of living meters from a beautiful sandy beach, so why not make this dream a (temporary) reality with a stay on Iki island! This campsite is located quite literally a stone’s throw from one of Japan’s top 100 beaches, Tsutsukihama. In addition to the beach, there are also basic sports facilities and BBQ areas, making this a perfect spot to spend a weekend away from the rat race. Showers and basic facilities are available, and equipment can be rented at the reception. 8 www.hn.iki-vision.jp/~tsutsukifureai/index.html ( 0920-44-6673 (Japanese only)
Nagasaki Prefecture Forest Park Located between Sakai and Kinkai, this large forest offers something for everyone. Hike along beautiful streams that lead to ideal bird watching and ‘mushroom spotting’ areas. Looking for more than a leisurely stroll? Swing your way through the forest’s obstacle course! Finally, when the sun sets, head to the observatory and rent out a telescope to view the beautiful night sky. For overnight stays, the park offers both large cabins and tents that are also wheelchair accessible. Camping equipment is also available to rent at the management office. 8 kenminnomori.sakura.ne.jp/index.php ( 0959-24- 1660 (Japanese only)
Nodake Park, Omura Located high above Omura in central Nagasaki prefecture, the park at Nodake Lake has everything you need for a weekend getaway. Take a stroll on the path that encircles the manmade lake and enjoy the fresh mountain air. A popular weekend destination for families, what Nodake lacks in solitude it makes up for it in scenic beauty and convenience. On site are toilets and showers, free parking, and play areas for young children. Nodake is very friendly to the unprepared, as everything from cabins, blankets, barbeques, and tents of all sizes are available to rent for a nominal fee. 8 nodakeko.com/
Tashima Island, Omura Bay For those who really want to get away, you can’t do much better than Tashima. This island, just off the coast of Saikai in Omura Bay, is an absolute paradise for those with a passion for the outdoors. Activities on offer include sea kayaking, paddle boarding, zip lining, and various onsen options. You can even purchase food and drink for your evening barbeque, or why not try catching some fish yourself. A range of tents are available to rent, and if all that isn’t enough, the sunsets are absolutely breathtaking as well. 8 tashima-nagasaki.com/
photos Dylan Nordstrom
San San Tomie Camping Village Located in a secluded corner of Goto, San San Tomie Camping Village is perfect for a weekend getaway, with sports facilities, fishing, and some fantastic hiking options. However, the real star of the show is the beach, a sheltered cove lined with perfect white sand and palm trees right on your doorstep. At night, the waters teem with bioluminescent plankton. Complete with kitchens, bathrooms, air conditioning and even television, the extremely well-equipped cabins are a dream destination for those who want a more comfortable getaway. Large tatami rooms comfortably accommodate 5 people per cabin and bedding is provided. There are also regular camping spots, with tents for rent. Barbeques, charcoal, tableware, bicycles and more are also available. Surely there is no better place to base yourself to explore the wild beauty and island charm of Goto! 8 sansan-tomie.jp ( 0959-86-2920 (Japanese only)
〒 Tsuttori 1333 Tomie-chou Goto-shi Nagasaki-ken
Eco-Park Ronshobaro Nestled in the hills of Minamishimabara, Ronshobaro is a locally-known park boasting incredible views and gentle mountain breezes. Visitors can choose to either “rough it” in a tent, or take their comfort to the next level and rent one of the four cabins. Each cabin has a roomy living room with a sleeping loft above and attached kitchen, all heated by a wood-burning stove. The large private baths and toilets in each cabin are all wheelchair accessible. Showers, laundry, and toilets (with running water) are provided in out-buildings for all the campsites to utilize. Ronshobaro is conveniently located a 20 minute drive from Obama, and 10 minutes from Unzen Town; you can enjoy the majesty of nature during the day, relax in the hot springs in the evening, and then retire to your comfy cabin. Not feeling like hot springs? Take a quick 30 minute drive down to Kazusa and have fun in the sun on the sandy beach, rent a stand-up paddle board from Maehama’s B&G and get out on the water. Activities at the park include learning about biodiesel, how to process and cook local farm products, and touring the park’s flower gardens and tea fields. Everything you may need can be rented from the park, from tents and bedding to BBQs and utensils, but don’t forget to bring food and charcoal! 8 sfhcosmos.wixsite.com/ecopark-e ( 0957-65-7056 (Japanese only)
〒 4731-2 Kitaarima-chou Minamishimabara-shi 859-2303 Nagasaki-ken n
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Nihongo on the 29 日本語オン・ザ Will Morgan
ウィル モーガン
Dan Cohen
GO ダン コーヘン
With the sweltering heat of summer beginning to fade and beach season coming to a close, autumn is the perfect time for ゆったり(yuttari - leisurely) excursions into Japan’s great outdoors. Nagasaki in particular has many fun options for 野外活動 (yagai katsudō - outdoor activities). Here are a few 選択肢 (sentakushi - options) to choose from! There are many ways to enjoy this quintessential outdoor activity, キャンピン KYANPINGU
camping. From bringing your own gear, renting from a キャンプ場 (kyanpujō - campsite), to staying in a キャビン (kyabin cabin), there’s something for everyone. A combination of “glamor” and “camping”, “glamping” is camping’s
グランピング rich cousin. Having become more popular in recent years, it comGURANPINGU bines the beauty of nature with the conveniences of modern life… but it might cost ya a pretty yennie. Mountain climbing, also referred to as 登山 (tozan), is probably the most popular outdoor activity in Japan. You many notice all the 山登り 登山グッズ (tozan guzzu - mountain climbing gear) Japanese YAMANOBORI people have. Mountain climbing is no exception to the Japanese tendency to go all out in buying gear for hobbies. “Forest bathing” is not as scandalous as the kanji would suggest. Shinrinyoku means spending time in the woods, a pastime widely 森林浴 considered in Japan to be good for your health. It’s up to you what SHINRINYOKU you do there! Do some ハイキング (haikingu - hiking) or maybe just sit against a tree and crush a nice 小説 (shōsetsu - novel). Fall is also considered the best time of the year for food in Japan, so take time out to sample some 秋グルメ (aki gurume - Autumn delicacies). Enjoy the 中秋の名月 (chūshū no meigetsu - harvest moon) on October 4th, and we will see you next time.