nagazasshi 3
10. Issue
Nov/ Dec ‘17
Winter Lights & Bites
nagazasshi Issue 3 Volume 10 November/December 2017
Director
Dominic Balasuriya
Editor-in-chief Will Tiley
Editors
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi
Copy Editor
Cassandra Fegert
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Public Relations Melisa Ferrigno
Contributors
Dominic Balasyria Dan Cohen Cassandra Fegert Emmanuel M. Feliciano Melisa Ferrigno Andrew Haddow Nao Ishimaru Joseph Madamesila Yeti Mallavi Hannah Martin Will Morgan Dylan Nordstrom Koji Shimakawa Lexi Swenson
Founders
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.issuu.com/nagazasshi nagazasshi@gmail.com cover photo flickr.com/marufish
S
eason’s Greetings to one and all!
Winter can be a tough time of year to be abroad – the days are shorter and darker, and the distance from home can feel further than ever. But fear not! This issue of the Nagazasshi is full of interesting ways you can embrace the festive spirit right here in Nagasaki! On page 4, we take a look at Japan’s own unique interpretation of Christmas, and how you can get involved and celebrate like a local. And if all that festive feasting is too much for you, we have a guide to healthy organic and vegetarian restaurants on page 12. Page 8 takes you through a perfect day out in Sasebo. This unique city is famed throughout Japan for its unusual blend of Japanese and American culture that can offer a little slice of home to those in need. Finally, our feature on Japanese hobbies turns to kendo, ‘the way of the sword’. With its roots in ancient swordsmanship, this quintessentially Japanese sport is now practiced around the world. From all of us at Nagazasshi, best wishes during the holiday period. See you all in 2018! Happy reading! Will Tiley
Editor-in-Chief
photo Joseph Madamesila
CONTENTS
Yuletide in Japan
4
Illuminations Fried Chicken Cakes
5 6 7
A Day Out in Sasebo
8
Kendo: The Journey of a Lifetime
10
Vegetarian Dining
12
Events
14
Nihongo on the Go
15
Explore the wonders of Japan's take on winter holidays
The must-do things in Nagasaki's navy town Learn about one of Japan's traditional martial arts Restaurant alternatives for herbivores
J
apan is a country known for its unique traditions and customs, and while Christmas may not be the most traditionally observed, it certainly falls into this category. It is a regular topic for bloggers and vloggers around the globe, covering everything from unusual choices of food to expletive laden sales at one particular Osaka department store. An interesting blend of wildly successful marketing, direct imports, and slight re-imaginations of Western traditions, Christmas more closely resembles Valentine’s Day than anything else. Stores are decorated, presents and cards are everywhere, and on Christmas Eve, bars are usually crammed with festive revelers. So why not embrace the season’s goodwill and have a go at Christmas, Japanese style!? In this guide, we will take you through everything you need for a holiday to remember. Put up the bunting, invite some friends around, and banish those winter blues with some magical illuminations, a mountain of fried chicken, and a slice of fluffy, festive cake. It may lack some of the nostalgic elements of home, but the unique features of the Japanese festive season will surely make up for that, and give you an unforgettable winter holiday!
A GLIMMER OF CHRISTMAS Emmanuel M. Feliciano, Melissa Ferrigno
A
lthough Christmas may not be a very big holiday in Japan, Sasebo definitely has its fair share of Christmas spirit. And to those used to the holiday feels, it can be a good place to visit.
performances can be seen. Of course, the festival would not be complete without a trip to the bazaar, where one can find a variety of items fit for Christmas gift giving.
This year, November 16th marks the opening of the Kirakira Festival. ‘Kirakira’ (meaning shining or glittering in Japanese) is certainly a perfect name, as Sasebo literally shines and glitters in this early reminder that Christmas is coming. In the center of the city, Shimanose Park becomes festooned with illumination, lit up trees, LED panels, and the centerpiece: Shimanose Art Center adorned with lights, usually displaying an illustration of Santa Claus and other yuletide images.
Alternatively, Nagasaki City also offers an array of illuminations to brighten up the winter nights. From November 25th, various areas around the city center will be lit up to add to the good cheer. Areas include Nagasaki Station, Dejima Wharf, Oura Cathedral, and many more.
Aside from illuminations, people get to enjoy a mock snow land, complete with an igloo. All these serve as background while a showcase of talents hit the stage. Throughout the festival, various
Glover Garden will also hold its own illumination festival. Starting from November 18th (every day, 5pm-8pm; Friday 5pm-9pm), you can take an evening stroll through the garden and enjoy the dreamy atmosphere at one of Nagasaki’s most scenic and memorable sites. Take in the night-time lights of Nagasaki Harbor and enjoy over 30,000 illuminations in the garden as they add a touch of festive cheer. photo flickr.com/marufish
nagazasshi |November/December 2017
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Crisp Cringle Andrew Haddow
A
h, Christmas. That time of year when an old, bearded gentleman brings joy to children by dolling out buckets of fried chicken. Wait, what? The tradition of celebrating the season with a bucket of a certain colonel’s chicken is said to have originated in the early 1970s after a KFC employee observed a group of expats substituting turkey with fried chicken. The idea of chicken for Christmas was soon marketed nationwide, and now the winter holidays see huge sales every year.
photo Dylan Nordstrom
For Nagasaki residents looking to join in on the festivities, be sure to reserve in advance, as many of the major fast food chains sell out every year. If you find yourself in a small town, check local supermarkets for a Christmas meal. For those looking for a less corporate way to celebrate the holidays, why not visit one of the many amazing fried chicken spots around Nagasaki prefecture? The Nagazasshi has you covered!
Chiki-Chiki Omura Award-winning karaage, chicken wings, and more! The karaage comes in garlic or ginger flavors, and the very friendly staff can accommodate large party orders.
〒 2 Chome-703 Kakomachi, Ōmura-shi, Nagasaki-ken 856-0827
Tori no Shiraishi Minami-Shimabara A local favorite, this shop has set-meals available for customers to dine-in, or a take-out counter for those on the go. The bone-in karaage is worth the drive to this corner of Nagasaki!
〒 1487-7 Futsuchōotsu, Minamishimabara-shi, Nagasaki-ken 859-2112
Oita Karaage Sasebo This Sasebo gem serves karaage and Oita-style toriten, or chicken tempura. Bone-in options are also available for a more Western-style treat. The owner of this small take-out shop is also happy to speak English with her customers.
〒 951-6 Shigeochō, Sasebo-shi, Nagasaki-ken 859-3224
Walking in a Frosted Wonderland Yeti Mallavi
W
hen many westerners think of Christmas cake, it’s often the image of a moist, brown sponge cake filled with dried fruit and topped with icing. In Japan, Christmas cakes are not only made differently, but also have a rather distinct history. Although sponge cake was introduced to Japan around the 17th century, it was considered a delicacy that only the rich could enjoy because of limited ingredients. It became more widely available after World War II, when the ingredients became easier to access. This white, spongey cake topped with icing, strawberries, and chocolate quickly became the symbol of commercial Christmas in Japan. While Christmas cakes can be easily bought at convenience stores and supermarkets, we recommend you go all out and order them from one of the many and delicious patisseries around Nagasaki? Here are a few of our favorites.
Sweets Ikuta Sasebo With 100 years of history and three locations in Sasebo, Sweets Ikuta is one of the most well-known patisseries in the city. With their wide selection of treats, there is no doubt that you will find something that tickles your fancy. 8 sweets-ikuta.net/ Fure-ji Kondo Saikai In addition to Christmas cake, this local favorite also has a varied selection of seasonal cakes, and some of the most delicious cheesecakes in Nagasaki! ( 0959-28-1377
nagazasshi |November/December 2017
photo Yeti Mallavi
Fukujudo Omura Fukujudo has been around since 1956, making it one of the oldest patisseries in Omura. Along with Christmas cake, you can have a cake designed for any type of celebration. 8 facebook.com/cakeshopfukujudo/ Isamiya Kawatana This traditional Japanese sweets shop is known for having some of the best strawberry daifuku around, so it’s no surprise that Christmas cake is also on their menu during the winter holidays. 8 kawatana-isamiya.com/ n
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A Day Out in....
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Sasebo Cassandra Fegert and Yeti Mallavi take us around Sasebo for some of the best sights, eats, and of course, drinks this city has to offer. 1
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Mountains & More 2 Mt. Yumihari A swift 90 minute climb up to Yumihari promises one of the most beautiful night views of Sasebo that can be enjoyed from the observatory or the onsen at Yumihari-no-Oka Hotel. 2 Mt. Eboshi A two hour hike from Sasebo Station, Mount Eboshi boasts panoramic views of the city on one side, and rolling mountains as far as Saga prefecture on the other. After the climb, why not stop by the park for some roller blading, mini-golf, and horseback riding? Going Dutch 3 Take a break from Japan and spend the day at Huis Ten Bosch, Sasebo’s Dutch theme park which features a beautiful rose garden, magical illuminations, and one of the scariest haunted houses in all of Kyushu. 8 english.huistenbosch.co.jp/
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99 Islands Worth of Discovery 4 After a busy day of hiking, take a cruise and watch the sun set over the 99 Islands. If you prefer an elevated view, head to the Tenkaiho, Ishidake, or Yumihari Observatory Towers for a sunset stretching into the horizon. 8 pearlsea.jp/english/cruising.html
Sasebo has two local delicacies; the Sasebo burger and lemon steak. Be sure to grab a bite at these local favorites. 1 Kaya Burger Shop One can’t properly leave Sasebo without sampling its renowned burger, so why not swing by this local favorite? But try to come between the lunch and dinner rush hours!
〒 113 Yamatocho, Sasebo, Nagasaki Prefecture 857-1165 ( 0956-34-4181
2 Sasebo Burger Big Man Boasting its popularity among celebrities who have eaten here, this shop is a primary attraction for tourists, located just 10 minutes away from Sasebo station.
〒 7-10 Kamikyomachi, Sasebo, Nagasaki Prefecture 857-0872 ( 0956-24-6382
Jidaiya 3 Despite being out of the of the core area, this cozy restaurant draws people from across Japan for its lemon steak, Sasebo’s other local specialty.
〒 172-1 Yoshifukucho, Sasebo, Nagasaki Prefecture 859-3162 ( 0956-30-7040
nagazasshi |November/December 2017
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Feeling Hungry?
Grab a Pint As a naval port city, Sasebo is notorious for its bar scene. If you’re looking for a place to drink after shopping, check out the various bars situated around Yonkacho. The two areas, dubbed “Sailor Town” and “Sake Town” respectively present a variety of bars for you to choose from. 1 The Westerner Homesick? This thematic saloon bar offers the Western nostalgia you probably never knew you possessed. Have a drink with one of the elderly bartenders in a cowboy hat and sing your heart out in an enka duet.
〒 Minatomachi, 5−27, Sasebo, Nagasaki Prefecture ( 0956-25-2826
2 Jumble Saloon Get your competitive streak on with a game of beer pong! With its vivid neon lights, this bar will attract you even from the outside. Located on the second floor, it's spacious enough for your whole group! Get a table while you can, though, it fills up quickly on the weekends!
〒 2F, 9-3 Tokiwamachi, Sasebo, Nagasaki 857-0053 ( 0956-22-4904 n
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Kendo The Journey of a Lifetime
This time in our feature about Japanese hobbies, Dominic Balasuriya introduces us to his newfound passion, the ancient art of Kendo.
K
endo is the way of the sword: a Japanese martial art practiced with a bamboo sword (shinai) and armor (bĹ?gu). Hits to the head (men), forearm (kote), and torso (dĹ?) are scored only if they are made cleanly, and are accompanied by a decisive fighting shout (kiai), and a strong strike to the floor with the right foot (fumikomi).
Kendo has taught me so much about Japanese language and culture. Learning a new skill entirely in one’s second language is something I recommend to anyone. Furthermore, martial arts are a window to learning everything from sitting correctly in the seiza position, to showing respect to your teacher and teammates though words and actions.
But kendo is far more than simply mastering the art of striking and defending, or even winning or losing. Rather, it was founded on the ideal that it should be a path for self-development and growth, achieved through the study of the sword.
Kendo may seem like a solitary sport, but it is actually all about respecting your teammates and working hard together to grow. In theory, it would be easy to relax and rest while your partner practices their strikes. In reality, this is when you must be the most alert and
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November/December 2017 | nagazasshi
focused: being a good partner means encouraging your teammates to improve. This search for self-improvement led me to attend every practice session with my students: six times a week, for one to two hours. Practicing kendo in this way is a lesson in discipline and patience. You must continue even when you are tired or stressed, during the cold of winter or the stifling heat of summer. Every time I have felt it impossible to go on, I have surprised myself by continuing to the very end. I have learned that in kendo, as in life, the ultimate opponent, the person whom you must beat, is no one other than yourself. In August 2017, 18 months after beginning kendo, I was able to achieve the first dan level, which could be described as the first “black belt�. However, the road ahead of me is very long indeed: there are eight dan levels in total. Kendo truly is the journey of a lifetime.
QUEEN KEBAB
For anyone who wants to give kendo a try, the details of clubs in Nagasaki City and Sasebo are listed below. A little Japanese ability will go a long way, but kendo is an experience that I recommend to anyone aspiring to learn more about Japanese culture, to become stronger, and to learn more about themselves. To find your own journey: Nagasaki City 8 sinaishounen.jimdo.com/ Sasebo 8 sasebosports.com/kendo.php photos Nao Ishimaru
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QueenKebab.Sasebo queenkebab_sasebo
Vegetarian Dining Looking for vegetarian or vegan dining? Nagasaki Prefecture is home to a diverse range of locations that serve everything from traditional vegetarian temple cuisine to macrobiotic and organic dishes. Enjoy the best of Nagasaki's fresh produce and creative, passionate chefs. For the full list of selected locations, visit: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/special/restaurants2017/
Eatery Vaux Sur Aure (Tabedokoro ヴォスロール) Sotome
Father Marc de Rotz was a 19th century French missionary who passed on practical knowledge and skills to the people of Sotome. Named after Fr. de Rotz’s hometown in France, today slow food is served here in the way that de Rotz taught all those years ago. Uniquely, the pasta and bread are made with homegrown wheat. The majority of dishes are made without any animal products, but be sure to mention if you are vegan or vegetarian. Bookings are essential, but a Christian heritage tour from Nagasaki Yuran Bus also stops here. 8 shitsu-kyujoin.com/publics/index/18/ 8 nagasaki-yuranbus-reservation.jimdo.com/ candidate-for-world-heritage-tour/
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟
Available in: English: 8 visit-nagasaki.com Español: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/es/ Français: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/fr/ Italiano: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/it/ Nederlands: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/nl/
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ENDLESS DISCOVERY
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
Photos Photos pg 12 pgNagasaki 12 Nagasaki Prefecture Prefecture Tourism Association; Tourism Association; pg 13 top to pgbottom 13 top to Koji Shimakawa bottom Dominic (inset Dominic Balasuriya, Balasuriya), Lexi Lexi Swenson, Swenson, Dominic Dominic Balasuriya Balasuriya
November/December 2017 | nagazasshi
Wakabadou & Café Fusuian
Nagasaki City | Higashi-Sonogi Two restaurants: one in the heart of the city, and the other surrounded by nature. Located steps from Dejima, the stylish, easy ambience of Wakabadou complements the simplicity of its vegetable ahijo and curry pizza. In contrast, Café Fusuian in the heart of Higashi-sonogi is surrounded by waterfalls and greenery. Try the vegan curry and come away feeling refreshed and revitalized. Although non-vegetarian dishes are on the menu, simply let the chef know your dietary preferences. For bookings in English, contacting Wakabadou is recommended. 8 nagasaki.wakabadou.com 8 ja-jp.facebook.com/fusuian/
Nobister
Nagasaki City Nobister’s lunchtime offerings including both vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, as well as a vegan curry and a vegan Japanese-style lunch set. Other items containing animal products are clearly labelled on the English menu. As much as possible, pesticide-free vegetables are sourced from a family-run farm. In the evenings, Nobister turns into a cozy bar serving drinks and snacks. The owner speaks both English and Japanese, and is happy to answer any questions. 8 nobister.com
Tia Nagasaki & Tia Deli
Nagasaki City Tia Nagasaki’s new takeaway shop is in Amu Plaza, next to Nagasaki Station. Pick up a meal to eat later, on the train or at home. Enjoy a vegan Japanese-style bento lunch box or even Tia’s famous vegan curry. Though dishes change daily, seasonal vegetables harvested in Shimabara and Isahaya always take center-stage. Smoothies made with amazake, a non-alcoholic fermented rice drink, and the rich, almost nutty vegan ice-cream are well worth trying! 8 tia-nagasaki.com
Events Event of the Month
99 Islands Oyster Festival Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays during November 99 Islands Pearl Sea Resort Seasonal food is in full swing once the chilly November winds hit, so what better way to build some resistance to the cold than indulging in delicious and succulent oysters? At the outdoor camping area, which accommodates over 1,600 guests, there will be 400 hot coal barbecues waiting for these lovely mollusks! At only 800 yen for a kilogram of fresh oysters and additional costs for fuel, gloves, and knives, this is a great way to fill up on this oft-rumored aphrodisiac and warm up your insides. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/114 Sakai Nabe Festival Nov 26, Sakai City For one day only, Sakai will hold its famous nabe, or Japanese-style hot pot, festival. On the menu is a delicious French-style seafood stew made with a variety of local ingredients, and prepared in a gigantic pot suitable for 1000 people! Be sure to try the other smaller, but equally delicious local hot pots. With a total of 3,400 servings, this is a delightful event to sample some delicious cuisine and revel in the local spirit. There will be local performances and other products for sale. A cup of stew is only ÂĽ400. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/ event/60834/
Hasami Craft Fair Dec 2-3, Hasami Town Held annually this festival is a great way to recycle unwanted dishware and purchase new and unique ceramics from Hasami’s various famous kilns. Trading in used items will get you a half-price discount on one new piece, as well as a stamp rally, which grants you a chance for further discounts from a variety of stores. There will also be historical performances, so come check out this craft fair that celebrates ecology and community spirit! 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/ event/50131/ photo Hannah Martin
For more information and a full list of exciting events around Nagasaki, please visit 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events
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8 facebook.com/VisitNagasaki/ November/December 2017 | nagazasshi
Nihongo on the 24 日本語オン・ザ Will Morgan
ウィル モーガン
Dan Cohen
GO ダン コーヘン
In many countries, people say that クリスマス (kurisumasu - Christmas) is about family. In Japan, some say that it’s about dating. We say it’s about katakana. Christmas was introduced to Japan from abroad, so it is fitting that all of the terms surrounding it are written in the script most often used for foreign loanwords Feel free to call us サンタさん (santa san - Santa Claus) because we’re bringing a sack full of katakana words straight down your 煙突 (entotsu - chimney). For a fun challenge, try deciphering the words before reading the definitions. ツリー TSURĪ
Most people settle for a small fake one of these in Japan. It’s a Christmas tree! 100 yen shops keep plenty on hand if you fancy some trimming.
デート DĒTO
The reason for the season in the land of the rising sun. A date with a special someone is the traditional Japanese way to celebrate the winter holidays.
イルミネーション IRUMINĒSHON
The Japanese way of referring to Christmas lights. These glamorous displays are popular date destinations
A tradition originating in Germany, Christmas markets can be クリスマスマーケット found in major cities around Japan. They are mini-Christmas KURISUMASU festivals that include Christmas lights, wine, hot chocolate, MĀKETTO and food/gift stalls. チキン CHIKIN
It’s not Christmas without... fried chicken?! ケンタッキー (kentakkī - KFC) will start taking orders for Christmas on November 1st. Less traditional, but popular options include ordering from モス (mosu - Mosburger) or your local supermarket.
クリスマスケーキ It’s also not Christmas without….cake! Most places offer a KURISUMASU KĒKI sponge cake with white frosting and strawberries. クリスマスイブ KURISUMASU IBU
You guessed it, Christmas Eve! This is when most of the Christmas date action happens.
Make sure to consider all of these words to have your very own quintessential Japanese Christmas. Get a tree, go on a date on Christmas Eve, view the illuminations, and eat fried chicken and cake! Have a メリークリスマス (merīkurisumasu - Merry Christmas)!