nagazasshi 5
10. Issue
Mar/ April ‘18
Country
Roads
nagazasshi Issue 5 Volume 10 March/April 2018
Director
Dominic Balasuriya
Editor-in-chief Will Tiley
Editors
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi
Copy Editor
Cassandra Fegert
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Contributors Angela Arunarsirakul Dominic Balasuriya Alex Clemmer Dan Cohen Emmanuel M. Feliciano Andrew Haddow Will Morgan Dylan Nordstrom Masachika Ota Will Tiley Hinako Yamaguchi
Founders Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.issuu.com/nagazasshi nagazasshi@gmail.com cover photo Dylan Nordstrom
“
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If you’re all about the destination, then take a flight.
”
’m often reminded of this Frank Turner lyric (albeit in its original explicit form) when traveling around Nagasaki. Wherever you go, the journey itself can be one of the best parts of the trip. From rugged mountain vistas to sweeping ocean views, we are lucky to have it all on our doorstep. With that in mind, this issue looks at some of the epic roads around the prefecture, and how to enjoy them. If you like a challenge, take a look at our top tips for cycling routes (pg.6) or push yourself with the SaseboShimabara Ultra Walk, Nagasaki’s very own 105km 24-hour hiking challenge (pg.4). Alternatively, if you just like to get out in a car and drive into the sunset, then we have the perfect guide for you (pg.8). With the cherry blossoms in full bloom, there is no better time to make a day trip to Omura. Our guide (pg.10) will give you the inside track on great places to eat and drink to complement your hanami (cherry blossom viewing) experience. Spring is traditionally a time of change in Japan, so why not take up a new hobby? In this issue, we take a look at yosakoi (pg.12). This vibrant dance is a regular feature at festivals around the prefecture, and presents a great chance to meet people, push yourself, and most importantly, have fun! Will Tiley Editor-in-Chief
Contents
Sasebo-Shimabara Ultrawalk Lace up for this 24 hour walk-a-thon
Leveled-up Lycra
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Nagasaki Cruisin'
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A Day Out in Omura
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Get on your bike and take on some hills Take a drive on the prefecture's most scenic roads More than just "the city by the airport"
Inside Yosakoi
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Join in on the competition
Events
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Nihongo on the Go
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photo Hinako Yamaguchi
Sasebo-Shimabara
Ultrawalk
0105 Challenges in Nagasaki don’t get harder than the 105km ultra walk from Sasebo to Shimabara. Angela Arunarsirakul takes us through her experience of this all-night ultra marathon.
T
he first time I’d heard of the annual Sasebo-Shimbara Ultra Walk, I thought, “I may be a long distance runner, but I’m not crazy enough to walk 105km.” Fast forward to being inspired by my friend Moja, who had thrice completed the course, I soon found myself at the starting line during Golden Week. What makes people so keen to walk a distance that the general population dreads to even drive? There are the serious walkers who are “in it to win it,” but most folks are everyday people intrigued by the challenge to test their physical and mental capacities.
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Sasebo to Higashi-sonogi (32km) The atmosphere at the starting line was filled with excitement and anticipation. I started with my closest friends - Moja, Titin, and Arun - and we weathered the midday heat, rain, and hills to the first checkpoint. Higashi-sonogi to Omura (50km) My first moment of distress came when my thighs started hurting. Arun felt his knees giving in too. Can you picture the scene? There we were, chatting about life and enjoying the incredible view and sunset overlooking Omura Bay, while enduring excruciating pain.
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Omura to Moriyama (72km) I got to Omura shortly before midnight, and that’s when it finally dawned on me – Shimabara was still really far away! I continued alone because Arun fell behind. I was relieved when another walker, Takada-san caught up with me in Isahaya, but I got worried when he started vomiting on the side of the streets. Using a mix of English and Japanese, we managed to motivate each other. Moriyama to Shimabara (105km) Most say that the time from Isahaya to Moriyama is the toughest, but for me, it was from 7 am to 9 am as I battled sleep deprivation. Takada-san was sleeping while walking as he tried to fight off
exhaustion, but alas, at 10 am under the beating sun, he walked into a pole. We quickened our pace and checked in at Shimabara Castle at 11:55 am, less than five minutes shy of the 24-hour time limit! Takeaways Despite all the months of preparation, I was initially not confident in my ability to complete the challenge, but that made crossing the finish line an even more satisfying and humbling experience. Never again will I underestimate someone on the basis of age. Your body achieves what your mind sets forth to do. You never know what you’re capable of until you try!
Age Group
Race Statistics
photo Will Tiley
20's
78 participants 36% finished 21:59:56 average time
30's
155 participants 42% finished 21:15:41 average time
40's
196 participants 64% finished 21:10:47 average time
50's
203 participants 62% finished 21:00:45 average time
60's
213 participants 59% finished 20:34:46 average time
70+
38 participants 58% finished 20:47:46 average time *data based on 2017 race
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Leveled-up Lycra Have a bike? Itching to get into the hills and explore? Well read on as Alex Clemmer takes us for a ride through some of the best cycling routes in the prefecture! photo Will Tiley
Gear
World Map
If you’re looking to get yourself kitted up to get out and explore the hills on a bike, Nagasaki has several great bike shops for all your needs. They are also great places to meet like-minded people and recruit some riding buddies! Sasebo: Takimoto Cycle
〒 859-3211 Sasebo, Sanae 583−7
Nagasaki City: Cycle Lodge
〒 852-8023 Nagasaki-shi, Wakakusamachi 5-24
Omura: Cycle Friend Takata
〒 856-0834 Omura, 1 Chome-117-5
Isahaya: Sports Depo
〒 854-0066 Isahaya, Kuyamamachi 2303-1
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Courses Omura to Ureshino - Route 6 This is easily one of my favorite mountain routes in all of Nagasaki. Starting at 7-Eleven in Matsubara, it’s about 10km to the highest point at 540m. On the way to the top, there are great views, an amazing local curry restaurant, Nodake Lake, and lush cedar forests. The latter stages of the ascent are quite peaceful since it’s rare to see Length: 24.5km
Gain: 590m
Kikitsu to Nagayo - Route 207 This section of Route 207 is a scenic collection of short hills along Omura Bay. There are over ten different segments on the Stava cycling app along this route, making it a great place to test your speed Length: 21.9km
any cars. On days after it rains, the forest turns an intoxicatingly deep shade of green, and its enhanced stillness becomes the perfect backdrop to the sound of rolling tires and rhythmic breathing. Shortly after reaching the highest point on Route 6, you will enter Saga Prefecture and begin an exhilarating and picturesque descent into Ureshino. Loss: 521m
against hundreds of other local riders. However, I find it difficult to treat this route like a time trial, since I always end up stopping to take pictures of the many different views of Omura Bay.
Gain: 383m
Loss: 391m
Higashi-sonogi to Omura - Omurawan Green Road When cycling from Omura to Higashishoulder. It also features some picturesque sonogi, this route provides a friendly vistas and impressive bridges. The route is alternative to the dangers of Route a “puncher” course, a common occurrence 34 along the shore. From a cycling in Nagasaki Prefecture that has several standpoint, the Green Road has a short hills with heights ranging from lot going for it; 14km of good road 50m to 150m all in a row, making for an surface, no traffic lights, and adequate effective and rewarding fitness challenge. Length: 13.9km
Gain: 278m
Gokahara-Dake - Route 184 Gokahara is a beast. Its host of NHK TV towers at the summit make it easily recognizable from Omura and Isahaya. This is one of the few peaks in Nagasaki with a direct route to the summit. As a result, it’s a popular climb for local cyclists, almost like a proving ground. The climb is nearly 14km long with an average grade of 7.7%, and the route to the 1057m high
Loss: 407m
summit is quite beautiful, but don’t let this fool you. The final third of the climb hosts a handful of brutal, leg-burning, cramp-inducing switchbacks that hit grades of up to 25%. Riders who take on this challenge require a certain willingness to suffer. The rewards at the end, however, are more than worth it.
Length: 13.8km Gain: 1017m
Loss: 2m
Nagasaki With breathtaking sights, stunning photo opportunities and the the freedom to travel at your own pace, traveling by car is one of the best ways to experience Nagasaki.
Cruisin' ENDLESS DISCOVERY
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟 8 visit-nagasaki.com
Photos : pg.8 & pg.9 (bottom) Dominic Balasuriya; pg.9 (top) Dylan Nordstrom
Town and Country: Sasebo and Hirado This journey begins in Nagasaki’s second-largest city, Sasebo, which is known for the famous Sasebo Burger and the Huis Ten Bosch theme park. About 50 minutes north on Route 227 is Hirado, notable for its long history and delectable beef. Visit Hirado Castle and the Hirado Dutch Trading Post,
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the historical trading site with the Netherlands prior to Dejima. Next, the island of Ikitsuki is another 30 minute drive. Enjoy the “Sunset Road,” an ocean-side drive featured in various car commercials. Experience the best of both rural and urban Nagasaki on this road trip!
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Tea and Pottery: Higashi-sonogi and Hasami Arriving in Nagasaki by plane, Higashi-sonogi is about 30 minutes north of Nagasaki Airport. Famous for its high-quality green tea, the beautiful tea fields are definitely worth visiting, with homestay experiences also offered. Other highlights include the family-run bakery Chiwataya, which uses matcha to make delicious bread, and Sorriso Riso, which combines a leather workshop, a vintage clothes store, and a cafe. Hasami, renowned for its ceramics, is 30 minutes to the north. Dotted with trendy cafes, galleries and a museum, it still feels like a Japanese country town. Enjoy the DIY classes on offer, or come for the annual pottery festival in late April/early May!
Journey to the South: The Nomozaki Peninsula Only an hour’s drive south of Nagasaki City is the beautiful Nomozaki Peninsula. Leave the city on Route 499 and drive past the Nagasaki Megami Bridge, the longest cable-stayed bridge in Kyushu. In late January, myriads of daffodils dot the Nomozaki Sports Center during the Nomozaki Daffodil Festival. In summer, Wakimisaki Beach is a great spot to swim. The sweeping views from Mt. Gongen Lookout Park at the
tip of the peninsula, as well as the paired Meoto Rocks allow for great photo opportunities. Finally, relax at the Alega Gunkanjima hot springs, which offer overnight stays.
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A Day Out in
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Omura Often dismissed as "the town with the airport," Omura is home to so much more than airplanes. With a range of interesting places and fantastic food combined with its central location, it’s thoroughly worth exploring.
Text Will Tiley & Andrew Haddow | photo Will Tiley
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Places 1 Omura Park (大村公園) Situated around the ruins of Kushima Castle, the park is filled with Omurazakura trees. That’s right, Omura has its own variety of cherry blossom! These trees are at their peak in late March/early April, and have even been included in the list of Japan’s Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots. Alternatively, visit in late May/early June and be greeted by thousands of purple irises.
〒 856-0834 Omura, 1 Chome-45-3 Kushima
2 Honkyoji (本経寺) Tucked away in a quiet side street, this vast temple complex rivals anything you’ll find in Kyoto. It’s home to the graves of the Omura family, who controlled the area in the 17th Century.
〒 856-0822 Omura, 1 Chome-64 Furumachi
›››For those with a car, a trip up into the mountains above Omura is highly worthwhile. Why not take a stroll around beautiful Nodake Lake, or pick strawberries and eat ice cream at Chou Chou?
Food & Drink Hataya (はたや) 1 What Hataya lacks in open space, it more than makes up for it with its amazing izakaya menu and friendly owners. A function room is available, but don’t miss out on a chance to parley with the motley crew of regular patrons. 〒 856-0024 Omura, 1 Chome-895-3 Suwa
2 Zero's Cafe (Zero's 喫茶) Located right by the park, the menu at Cafe Zero is filled with tasty treats. The fried chicken and curry are particularly good, and the friendly owners are always keen for a chat. 〒 856-0831 Omura, 1 Chome 45-3 Kushima
3 Soba Shou (そば正) Nothing says “Real Japan” quite like Omura’s Soba Shou. The Japanese tradition of mastering one’s craft is on full display with picture-perfect presentation and delicately balanced flavors. 〒 856-0828 Omura, 2 Chome-574-4 Kuidetsu
4 Tori K & Come On For the thirsty, Tori K is a great place to stop for a drink. If you’re feeling brave, grab a guitar off the wall and serenade the local crowd. Those looking for a more raucous time should check out Come On, almost directly above Tori K, for free flowing drinks and karaoke until the early morning. 〒 856-0832 Omura, Honmachi 436-6
5 Karate Chop (カラテチョップ) This hidden gem is one of the only places for Vietnamese food in the prefecture. Everything on the menu is worth trying, whether you visit for lunch or dinner. 〒 856-0814 Omura, 2 Chome-1187 Matsunami
6 Torichiyo (鳥千代) With its proximity to Omura station, this local favorite is a great place to start or finish your evening. Great yakitori and local atmosphere. 〒 856-0825 Omura, 14-1 Nishisanjocho
INSIDE YOSAKOI
In this issue’s Japanese hobby feature, Emmanuel M. Feliciano introduces us to the world of this very unique style of competitive dance. What is yosakoi? Yosakoi is a unique Japanese dance combining traditional movements and folk music infused with a modern vibe, and is performed by dancers in colorful festival wear. Nagasaki is home to one of the biggest yosakoi festivals in Kyushu: the Sasebo Yosakoi Matsuri, usually held in October. In 2016, my friends and I were awed by the spectacle of the festival, and we promised ourselves that we would participate the following year. And so we did. In 2017, we asked and discovered that two ALTs were already members of a yosakoi team in Kawatana.
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How to join a team As it turns out, many yosakoi teams actively seek or are willing to accept foreigners to join their teams. Many teams do not make public announcements, as they mostly rely on referrals from their members, so it is a matter of asking around the community or getting to know people who are part of a team. Recruitment usually begins in April for the October competition. Aside from the main event, the teams also participate in other yosakoi events around the prefecture. photos Masachika Ota
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What does it take? One does not have to be a good dancer to join, as demonstrated by my friend who learned to dance while practicing. However, one thing is a must: commitment. Some yosakoi teams are for fun and entertainment, and others are for competition. But no matter what type of team you join, you are expected to devote time and effort. As soon as we joined our team, we learned that it was not going to be easy. They were a successful competitive team, aiming for first place. The twice weekly two hour rehearsals turned into three times a week, and eventually almost daily three to four hour practices as the competition drew closer. We even attended a training camp to improve. Emotions ran high and relationships were tested, all because we were aiming to be the best. The hard work paid off! We advanced to the finals after being the top contender in our division! Unfortunately, the finals were cancelled because of a typhoon, but at least we ended on a high. What can you gain? Amidst all the challenges, it was an experience worth having, and a memory worth keeping and sharing. By being in a yosakoi team, especially a competitive one, the values of commitment, hard work, and teamwork were reinforced. Most importantly, it was the best opportunity to build a community and immerse in the Japanese way of doing things. Yosakoi is truly a great way to experience Japanese culture. nagazasshi |March/April 2018
QUEEN KEBAB
QueenKebab.Sasebo
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queenkebab_sasebo
Events Hanami Season is Here! 〒Omura Park -1 Chome-34 Kushima, Ōmura City Enjoy a picnic under the cherry blossoms with hanami. Be sure to check if your town runs a special hanami festival, but if you need a place to start, Omura city’s eponymous park has been ranked as one of the top 100 sakura spots in Japan. Stop by on April 1 between 10:30-15:30 for a small performance, and enjoy sweets from local vendors. photo Will Tiley
Hasami-yaki Pottery Festival 〒Yakimono Park – Isekigo 2255-2, Hasami-cho, Higashisonogi-gun Spring in Nagasaki isn’t all about the cherry blossoms! Venture slightly off the trail to quaint Hasami-cho, famous for its ceramics. The pottery festival brings in countless visitors every year. Enjoy the festival and purchase discounted local ceramics at the massive open-air market. From teacups and dishware to things more ornamental, Hasami-yaki has something for everyone.
For more information and a full list of exciting events around Nagasaki, please visit 8 facebook.com/VisitNagasaki/ 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events
Nihongo on the 05 日本語オン・ザ Will Morgan
ウィル モーガン
Dan Cohen
GO ダン コーヘン
How about a road trip? If you already have マイカー (maikā - your own car), great! Or just go grab a レンタカー (rentakā - rental car). Make sure you’ve got your 運転免許 (unten menkyo - driver’s license) and 保険 (hoken - insurance). 良いお旅を (yoi o-tabi wo - Have a great trip)! Just in case, here are some words you may come across in your travels. Do yourself a favor and give them a look before you go! 交差点 kōsaten 渋滞 jūtai
An intersection. These may or may not have a 信号 (shingō street light). Everyone’s favorite part of driving: traffic.
自動車 jidōsha
A self-propelling wheeled apparatus, or a fancy way to say “car.”
速度 sokudo
Your speed. Sometimes called スピード (supīdo). Be careful of signs that tell you to スピード落とせ (supiido otose - slow down).
止まれ tomare
Often found written on the road or on upside down red triangle signs. It means “STOP.”
高速道路 Lit. a high speed road, a highway. They are usually 有料 (yūryō kōsoku dōro tolled). 交通安全 kōtsū anzen
A friendly reminder to drive safely. Commonly found on 歩道 橋 (hodōkyō - pedestrian bridges) and 消防署 (shōbōsho firehouses).
ネズミ捕り nezumi-tori
Lit. mouse trap. Don’t take the cheese or you’ll have to pay big bucks if you get caught in one of these speed traps.
One thing that people do all the time, but seldom iron out their Japanese for is trips to the ガソリンスタンド (gasorin sutando - gas station). • 満タンお願いします (mantan onegai shimasu) - Fill ‘er up. • ¥¥ 分ください (¥¥ bun kudasai) - Please give me ¥¥’s worth. Safe travels! Never 飲酒運転 (inshu unten - drunk drive), instead always have a ハンドルキーパー (handoru kīpā - designated driver) ready when you have some drinks with dinner.