nagazasshi VOLUME 11, ISSUE 3
NOV/DEC 2018
WARMING UP IN NAGASAKI ● HISTORY OF THE KOTATSU ● DELICOUS WINTER EATS ● ONSENS ● SŌSAKU HANGA
nagazasshi VOLUME 11, ISSUE 3
NOV/DEC 2018
Seasons Greetings everyone! I’m Yeti, your editor-in-chief for Nagazasshi! While perhaps not as harsh as northern countries, it can be difficult coping with the winter in Japan, even down south in Nagasaki. Due to a lack of central heating in many buildings, along with the high humidity outdoors, it can feel like you’re stuck in a perpetual state of chills all season long. How do you deal with it? We hope this issue of the Nagazasshi gives you some additional tools to keep warm during the approaching frigid weather. We asked you to send in some of your best winter stories while living in Nagasaki! On page 4, read about how people spent their first winters in the prefecture, and get some tips on how to keep the chilly weather at bay! On page 6, Emmanuel Feliciano and Andrew Haddow give us greater insight into one of the most well-known pieces of Japanese furniture: the kotatsu. Learn about how this blanketed table originally came into existence and its subsequent journey to becoming the most loved spot in any winter house. We also don’t want you to starve this winter, so we look at some of the best foods to eat during the winter months. Whether it’s warming yourself up with a bowl of nabe or eating seasonal fruits like mikan and strawberries, you can read it all on page 8. While staying inside during the winter months is nice, you can’t stay there forever. So where can you go? And, most importantly, what can you do to make sure you don’t freeze while you’re out there? No need to fear, because page 10 shows you some of Nagasaki prefecture’s best onsens, while on page 12 we learn about sōsaku hanga, the art of wood block printing. So, while the weather may be dark and cold, try to make the most of this winter and let’s fight off those winter blues! Yeti Mallavi Editor-in-Chief
CONTENTS 4 WARMING UP IN NAGASAKI
How our Nagasaki contributors cope with Japanese winter
6 THE HEAT IS ON!
Discovering the origins of the kotatsu
8 WINTER TREATS, DELICIOUS EATS Munch on these seasonal favorites during the winter months
10 NAGASAKI ONSEN
Take a dip in Nagasaki’s best onsens
_ 12 SOSAKU HANGA
Learn about the Japanese art of woodblock printing
14 NIHONGO ON THE GO DIRECTOR: Dominic Balasuriya ASSISTANT DIRECTOR: Will Tiley EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Yeti Mallavi EDITORS: Andrew Haddow, Cassandra Fegert COPY EDITOR: Flipi Poggenpoel DESIGNER: Evan Hayden SOCIAL MEDIA: Emmanuel Feliciano CONTRIBUTORS: Dan Cohen, Cassandra Fegert, Emmanuel Feliciano, Andrew Haddow, Evan Hayden, Masafumi Kanda, Yeti Mallavi, Will Morgan, Abbie Philpott, Diana Reyes, Kayla West, Matthew Wood FOUNDERS: Andrew Morris, Matthew Nelson COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden INSIDE-COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden DON'T FORGET TO CHECK OUT UPCOMING EVENTS!
8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events 8 facebook.com/VisitNagasaki @nagazasshi
Warming up in Nagasaki
How our Nagasaki contributors cope with Japanese winter
Fuyu is coming… With no central heating in many older houses and apartment buildings, winter can be a challenging season in Japan. If you are new in Japan or are still struggling with winter every year, it’s time to take notes! We’ve gathered some survival tips from some lovely and knowledgable Nagasaki residents.
Work out how to use the timer settings of your AC heaters. Remember that it goes by hours, so if you go to bed at 11:15pm and set it for 8 hours later, it will turn on at 7:15am. I recommend setting it to turn on a few minutes before your alarm goes off. That way your bedroom / apartment will be nice and toasty as you awake, and you won't need to fight your blankets and duvets.
Coming from “perfect weather” California to the unforgiving winter of Nagasaki was an eye opener to Japanese ingenuity. During my first winter, my supervisor introduced me to the magic of the kairo (カイロ), a pocket-sized hand warmer. This handy item is available in different sizes and functions, such as hand warmers, adhesive-patches, and even foot warmers. So next time you’re freezing while waiting for your bus, pop into the convenience store and shake a kairo for instant warmth.
To stay warm and beat winter blues, throw a nabe party! All you need is a donabe pot, a gas burner, a soup base and some food to boil! Gather your friends and you can chat and relax while cooking and eating at the same time. Almost anything can go into a nabe pot, just prep and cut it into easy-to-grab chunks. You can buy ready-made soup bases from miso to kimchi, so there`s a flavor for everyone. There`s nearly always leftovers, so tomorrow’s dinner is sorted too!
- Diana Reyes, ALT, Sasebo
- Abbie Philpott, ALT, Minami Shimabara
- Matthew Wood, ALT, Sasebo
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP-LEFT): Evan Hayden, Yeti Mallavi, Kayla West
For me winter is about achieving ultimate coziness. Find me under my kotatsu, dangerously close to the TV, with everything I need within arm’s reach. New pajamas, a book, snacks, some tea, and whatever 100+ hour game I’ve been putting off all year. Identifying something positive about winter to look forward to throughout the year is crucial for your mental health. Find whatever brings you comfort and joy, and embrace the annual tilt away from the sun. - Andrew Haddow, Faculty of Global and Media Studies, University of Nagasaki Siebold Arriving in the middle of January to my bare apartment and incomprehensible heater/air-con remote, meant that my first week as an ALT was spent at home, in bed, with a nasty flu. I later had more positive experiences with Nagasaki winter, for example during a big snowfall in my last year as an ALT. It brought me great joy to watch my elementary students building snowmen, throwing snowballs, and frolicking in a rare half-day of snow. Snow, something I take for granted where I come from, was something rare and special to these kids, and I enjoyed viewing it through their eyes.
do is microwave them or dip the package in boiling water. My friends and I also like making bonfires and roasting sweet potatoes, which is a traditional winter activity we learn as kids. - Masafumi Kanda, Technician, Mikawachi Winter is delightful in Nagasaki. Living on Iki Island means it’s plenty windy, but that doesn’t stop me from exploring fields and forests with my camera and Pokemon-Go. I love winter scenery on Iki, and the sunsets are to die for. At home, I curl up under the kotatsu with a hot tea. My double curtains and bubble wrap windows keep the chill out, while my tatami floors keep my feet from getting chilblains. - Kayla West, ALT, Iki Island (yukunerkblog.wordpress.com)
- Evan Hayden, Graphic Designer, Nagasaki City Aside from using heating devices at home, I also keep myself warm by eating some winter food. I enjoy eating different kinds of nabe at home or at a restaurant. I also eat oden, which is readily available at convenience stores. There are also nabe packs in supermarkets. All you have to Kayla, staying warm 5
TEXT: Andrew Haddow and Emmanuel Feliciano ILLUSTRATIONS: Evan Hayden
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There is a unique winter staple in Japanese homes that has the world wanting to curl up for some mikan and chill. That low rectangular table with a thick blanket under the table top is the kotatsu (炏燾), a table equipped with a built-in heater. Despite older Japanese homes lacking toasty insulation and central heating, the kotatsu is one of many unique ways the Japanese keep warm. The kotatsu is believed to have originated in the Muromachi period in the 14th century. It started as a charcoal- powered hearth dug into the floor, called an irori, which doubled as both a stove for food and a heater. Eventually, it evolved into a heated seating area by placing a wooden platform on top of the hearth, then covering it with a blanket to trap the heat. In the 17th century, a portable pot-style hearth that could be placed anywhere in the house became popular. By the 20th century, the kotatsu was made electric and far more portable, becoming the quintessential Japanese table we know today. In modern times, kotatsu have become a dining must-have, providing families with a warm spot to enjoy winter meals. The tradition of sharing mikan (mandarin
oranges) with family under the kotatsu is undoubtedly a powerful nostalgia for many people in Japan. Modern kotatsu are designed to be flexible year-round. Take off the blanket and unplug the heater, and it becomes a simple living room table. Some manufacturers have even designed secret drawers and pockets to house many gadgets, books, or other homewares. Furthermore, many kotatsu have folding legs, for easy storage in less spacious lodgings. The clothing brand Hatra created a kotatsu set-up in 2013, originally for a pop-up exhibit, that seems to defy the tradition of making the kotatsu more portable. The kotatsu-parka features ultimate comfort, as the user is thoroughly engulfed in a kotatsu blanket that extends seamlessly into a wearable hoodie. Although the advent of new technology and more Western-style housing has seen to the end of the kotatsu’s golden age, it remains an icon of Japanese culture. Historically born from necessity, what kept the kotatsu relevant for centuries was not simply the warmth of the heater, but the feelings of home and family.
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The weather outside is frightful, and your kotatsu is so delightful, but you still have to feed yourself. This issue, Yeti Mallavi introduces you to the delicious world of seasonal crops. TEXT: Yeti Mallavi
Fruits Basket Japan is all about seasonal fruits and vegetables, and, even though it’s winter, there is still a large number of both available. Mikan (mandarin oranges), are so plentiful and cheap that you might find a lovely bag of them on your office desk from your coworkers. Another seasonal fruit is the strawberries. In several Western countries, strawberries are usually available during the summer time. However, due to the extensive use of greenhouses in Japan, strawberries are mostly available in winter and are often associated with Christmas. Some farms in Nagasaki will even allow you to go strawberry picking. The big question is: what do you do with all these fruits once you have them? One popular treat to make is daifuku mochi, a type of rice cake with anko (red bean paste) and strawberries inside. It’s also becoming popular to use other fruit, including mikans. Making daifuku might seem difficult at first, but all you need is a bit of practice. First, you
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take your strawberries or mikans and cover them with anko, rolling the result into a nice ball. Next, if you don’t have a readymade solution, make your own mochi by mixing a cup of mochiko flour with ¾ cup of water. After steaming the dough for roughly 20 minutes, cook in a heavy bottom saucepan on medium-low heat, mixing it in with the dough constantly. Slowly add ¾ cups of sugar in thirds, making sure it fully dissolves. Once done, lay the dough out on a cookie tray and sprinkle with some cornstarch. Lastly, finish by cutting the mochi out and wrap it around the red bean balls, pinching it closed. (Visit Japanese Cooking 101 for the full recipe!) If you find yourself to be more a foodie than a cook, no need to fear. You can also pick up these delicious treats at local pastry shops. A popular place is Omura’s Kaneko Manju (金子饅頭), which also offer delicious chocolate daifuku.
Put Everything in a Pot and Boil It If you’re on a budget, it’s also important to note that daikon, onions, and Chinese cabbage are also seasonal and will be cheaper during the winter months. What should you do with all those vegetables that you got on sale? If you love stews, then ‘tis the season to bring out your nabe pot and boil those veggies into something delicious. You can buy pre-made stock from your local supermarket. There are many different flavors, such as miso, kimchi, or even curry. In a large ceramic pot, place your stock, veggies, as well as some meat or fish of your choice. Use a portable electric burner, and set it for a slow boil. Once everything is cooked through, serve yourself a delicious portion after turning down the heat. For the final stage of the meal, it’s popular in Nagasaki to add champon noodles to the leftover broth, rather than the more traditional rice. Whichever you prefer, a nabe party is a great way for everyone to warm up.
PHOTO: Abbie Philpott
If you’re looking to go out, there are also many restaurants that specialize in nabe. One popular place is Tsubasa (つばさ), in Kawatana. They offer miso, shoyu, curry and tomato based nabe.
Whether you’ve been climbing mountains, exploring towns or soaking up some rays on the beach, there is no better way to relax after a busy day in Nagasaki Prefecture than a trip to an onsen (hot spring). Here are some of our top onsen picks from around the prefecture.
TEXT:
Will Tiley PHOTOS:
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟
8 discover-nagasaki.com
(English 日本語 中國語言 한국어 FRA ESP NLD ITA)
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Ryotei Saigetsuan (HIRADO) Nestled in the hills above the town of Hirado, this traditional inn is a fantastic place to relax and pamper yourself. Many of the spacious and beautiful rooms have their own private onsen, and the hotel restaurant serves up some of Hirado’s finest local produce. Day trip plans including access to the onsen and a meal are also available, but must be reserved in advance.
Fukudaya (UNZEN) Unzen Onsen is unequivocally Nagasaki’s most famous spot for hotspring, and Fukudaya is one of the best places to enjoy a natural onsen bath. Access to the rotenburo (outdoor bath) is available for a very reasonable price; or consider renting one of their private rooms with a rotenburo. Fukudaya is also known for its restaurants, offering local delicacies such as Nagasaki beef and fugu (pufferfish). Overnight visitors are also catered to with a range of activities including access to the onsen, table tennis, and spa treatment.
Hotel Nampuro (SHIMABARA) The real draw of Hotel Nampuro is the exceptional scenery, with the hotel’s numerous baths facing out over the sea towards the distant mountains of Kumamoto. The public bathing area includes saunas and both hot and cold water pools. Alternatively, you can splash out on a room with its own private rotenburo! The restaurant serves up the best of Shimabara’s fresh produce, and the hotel offers a range of other facilities including badminton courts, karaoke, and even a petting zoo.
Shimakaze no Yu (IOJIMA ISLAND) Located near a popular beach, Shimakaze no Yu offers the perfect place to stop, relax, and recuperate after a fun day on the island. The onsen contains both indoor and outdoor baths, some facing out over the sea. They also have 10 private rooms available to rent, each containing an indoor and outdoor bath and a sauna. The restaurant offers a selection of light meals including fresh sashimi and tempura. 119
Ukiyo-e (pictures of the floating world) is a type of Japanese art that flourished during the Edo period, most often in the form of woodblock prints. Increased Western influence and the end of the Meiji era gave rise to two artistic movements: shin-hanga (new prints) and sōsaku-hanga (creative prints). While shin-hanga emphasized a shared division of labor by three artists: sketching, carving, and printing, sōsaku-hanga strived to amalgamate all of these points into a solo production, asserting that “true” art is conceived by a single artist. The laborious act of creating a woodblock print challenges the dichotomy of expertise and mediocrity between expert and amateur, and welcomes selfexpression as a means of true artistic demonstration.
TEXT AND PHOTOS: Cassandra Fegert ART: Kozue Okajima
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The three intrinsic components to sōsaku-hanga - sketching, carving, and printing - are equally vital. If you want to start sōsaku-hanga, you must begin by gathering several essential pieces, including carving and sketching tools, art knives, brushes, a baren (a circular printing tool), wood, pigments, carbon paper and printing paper. Sketching is the base of the artist’s creation and serves as the skeleton of the final piece, which will need to be retraced several times: once, inverted, and again, inverted on the wood. Carving, the most arduous and meticulous step, involves precision of the hands and application of the right tools. Carving your piece can take several hours and requires careful attention to a piece’s intricacies, the wood, your movements, and the quality of tools. The final step, printing, requires painting over the woodblock with your desired pigments, and placing printing paper on top of it. After pressing down with the baren to smooth the image, the final print should appear on your paper, no longer inverted. Your woodblock print can be used as a stamp for postcards, or other prints!
Nagasaki SĹ?saku-hanga artist, Kozue Okajima, has been practicing her art for 40 years. Now in her late 70s, Okajima has featured in various museums around Nagasaki City. 8 years ago she began teaching the art at the NHK Culture Center. Her purpose was to encourage retirees to craft something beautiful and resonant while using their hands and minds. While she’s taught students as old as 84, she also teaches those from various backgrounds and ages. Seated in her house, you can feel the warmth and creativity from years of practice, with her artwork surrounding you on all sides. Okajima-sensei welcomes anyone passionate about art and self-expression to embrace sĹ?saku-hanga, an art that beautifully demonstrates that anyone can create something meaningful.
TEXT: Will Morgan, Dan Cohen 冬 (fuyu - winter) is coming, so the season of 寒い (samui - cold temperature) has begun. Weather is a popular conversation topic in Japan all year round, and winter is no exception. Not only do people talk about the temperature, they talk about 雪 (yuki - snow). It may not snow much in here Kyushu, but you can bet people will be interested in how much it snows where you are from. Here are some words to make sure your conversation doesn’t 凍る (kōru - freeze).
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氷 (kōri) - Whether it’s in your drink or on the roads, it’s all the same “ice.” 凍っている (kōteiru) - “Frozen,” as in describing icy roads. 吹雪 (fubuki) - “Blizzard.” Luckily, Nagasaki doesn’t experience these storms. みぞれ / 霙 (mizore) - “Sleet,” a mixture of snow and rain known to visit Kyushu occasionally. あられ / 霰 (arare) - Common use splits the English “hail” into big and small. This is small hail. ひょう / 雹 (hyō) - Large hail. 降る (furu) - “To fall,” used for any precipitation like rain, snow, sleet or hail. 積もる (tsumoru) - “To accumulate,” when snowfall doesn’t melt right away.
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An Interesting Distinction When talking about snow, you will often hear one or both of the following questions. 〇〇で雪は降りますか？ 〇〇 de yuki wa furimasu ka? 〇〇で雪が積もりますか？ 〇〇 de yuki wa tsumorimasu ka? The former asks if it ever snows in 〇〇, whereas the latter asks if the snow sticks and “piles up” in 〇〇. In many places, people do not make a distinction when asking about snowfall, but... 九州では雪が降るけどあまり積もらない。 Kyūshū dewa yuki ga furu kedo amari tsumoranai. In Kyushu, it snows but it doesn’t usually stick. Finally, remember that native speakers won’t always talk about the weather in complete sentences, especially if they’ve just come in out of the cold. Listen out for one winter’s most common exclamations: さむっ！ (Samu!). You can gauge how cold a person is by how long they draw out the ‘sa’ portion of the word. On a 真冬日 (mafuyubi - a day that fails to reach zero degrees) you might even hear “Saaaaaaaa-mu!”