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International Nagasaki Nagasaki History | International Foods | Cemeteries
nagazasshi Volume 9 Issue 6 May/June 2017
Director
Dominic Balasuriya
Editor-in-chief Rosie Fordham
Editors
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi Will Tiley
Copy Editor Will Powell
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Public Relations Melisa Ferrigno
Contributors
Daniel Taylor Avila Dominic Balasuriya Dan Cohen Adam Eyre Emmanuel M. Feliciano Andrew Haddow Masafumi Kanda Will Morgan Shino Musiga Seiji Nagano Queen Kebab Jessica Richard Will Tiley
Founders
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.nagazasshi.com Cover photo: Dutch Slope flickr.com/mrhayata
N
agasaki Prefecture is famous for its history of foreign influence. From early trade with the Dutch and Portuguese, to the continuing influence of Christianity, Nagasaki is a place deeply affected by its ties to other countries. In this issue, we look to the past with our piece on the foreign cemeteries of Nagasaki City (pg.13). People from around the world have long made Nagasaki their home, and a visit to one of these cemeteries is a moving reminder of this fact. We also turn to the present with a piece on Sasebo’s international restaurants (pg.10). Nagasaki’s diversity of cultures isn’t just a relic of the past—it continues today. In Sasebo, restaurants serving food from countries such as Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Turkey are leaving their own distinct mark on the culture of Nagasaki. Of course, Seasonal Specials is back (pg.8) to show you where to find delicious tomato ramen and anago, as well as how to make umeshu! Nagasaki’s plethora of cultures and residents from around the world is something that we at the Nagazasshi are especially proud of, and we hope that this issue will leave you feeling the same. Happy reading! Rosie Fordham
Editor-in-Chief
Contents Events
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Nagasaki and the World
6
Seasonal Specials
8
A (Different) Taste of Sasebo
10
A Tale of Three Cemeteries
13
Nihon(go) on the Go
15
Nagasaki’s ties to other countries
10
photo provided by
: Shino Musiga
Local specials for early summer
Sasebo’s international restaurants
Nagasaki’s buried past
13
photo credit: Jessica Richard
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photo credit: Will Tiley
The Great Ghibli Exhibition Apr 15 - June 25, Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture, Nagasaki This exhibit features production materials, concept art and other documents from the world-renowned films of Studio Ghibli. Also on display is a giant Catbus for all Totoro fans to rekindle their childhood joy. 8 nagasaki-np.co.jp/ghibli/ Haiki Tea City Throughout May & June, Haiki City, Sasebo Over 400 years ago, merchants, farmers, and fishermen gathered in Haiki to trade their goods. In fact, the market price for tea in Kyushu is said to have been fixed in Haiki. Even now this market is still bustling. Come by, sample some tea, and indulge in retail therapy! 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/51776 Hotaru Evening May 27 & June 3, Kinkai, Nagasaki This event celebrates the Togane River and the shift from spring to summer. Festivities include catching goldfish and cold noodles, as well as nature conservation talks. In the evening, fireflies light up the river scenery for an unforgettable night. 8 at-nagasaki.jp/event/61091/ The Rose Festival May 13 - June 5, Huis Ten Bosch, Sasebo At Huis Ten Bosch, you can view millions of roses and tulips in full bloom. At night, the Rose Garden will be lit up and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping is also available. Come admire the view upside down! 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/118
Nagasaki Hydrangea Festival May 20 - June 11, Nagasaki Botanist and physician Philip Franz von Siebold first cultivated the otakusa variety of hydrangea. During warm spring days, they blossom throughout Nagasaki City. Check them out at the Siebold Memorial Museum, Nakashimagawa Park, Dejima, Glover Garden, and other sites. 8 at-nagasaki.jp/event/50844/
Events
Event of the Month
Firefly Festival Late May-Early June, Shinkamigoto Known as the hometown of fireflies, Aiko-kawa hosts thousands of fireflies who shine their lights on warm summer nights. This peaceful event lets visitors engage with nature in a friendly, nonintrusive way. Drinks and ice cream will also be on sale at the entrance of the river. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/541 photo Seiji Nagano
Iki Island Cycle Festival June 4, Iki city Now is the season for competitive sports, and the biggest is held on Iki Island. Professional cyclists and amateurs will race around 30 km or 50km courses. Though registration is over for this year, come enjoy the race as a spectator—and start training for next year! 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/540
2017 Goto International Triathlon June 11, Goto City Head to the Goto Islands for the Baramon King, a competition which draws athletes from around the world. Cheer on the competitors alongside enthusiastic locals. The race starts at 7:00am and runs well into the evening. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/s/ spot/61695/
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Nagasaki and the World Nagasaki has long played a pivotal role in connecting Japan to other countries. In addition to Nagasaki’s friendship with the Netherlands, long-standing ties also exist with Spain, Italy, and France. In this month’s feature, find out more about the places and historical figures that have linked Nagasaki to the world.
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟 8 visit-nagasaki.com
Now offered in multiple languages: Español: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/es/ Français: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/fr/ Italiano: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/it/ Nederlands: 8 visit-nagasaki.com/nl/
ENDLESS DISCOVERY
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
Photo credits: all photos are the property of Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
The Netherlands - Hirado Dutch Trading Post Trade between Japan and the Netherlands began in the 17th century. The Dutch East India Company maintained a post on Hirado from 1609 until 1641, when it moved to Dejima. Japan’s first western-style stone building was even built in Hirado in 1639, only to be demolished a year later by order of the shogun. Today, a modern reconstruction of this building houses a museum where visitors can view original trading goods and learn more about the rich history the two countries share. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/228
Italy – Arima Christian Heritage Museum In 1582, Italian missionary Alessandro Valignano played a key role in sending four young boys from Nagasaki to Europe. This was the Tensho Embassy, and these boys would visit Rome and meet both Pope Gregory XIII and Sixtus V. The Arima Christian Heritage Museum, in Minamishimabara, includes a description of Valignano’s work and the seminary that he established. Also on display is a model of the letterpress printing machine that was brought back to Japan. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/586/
Spain - St. Francis Xavier Memorial Church Christianity was spread to Japan when Fr. Francis Xavier, born in Navarre (modern Spain), was sent to Asia by the King of Portugal. Famous for his missionary work, Xavier also cofounded the Jesuit order with priests from Spain and other countries. Today, a statue at the St. Francis Xavier Memorial Church in Hirado commemorates his missionary visit to Hirado in 1550. From a distance, visitors can enjoy the unique view of the church framed by Buddhist temples. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/532
France – Oura Cathedral Oura Cathedral in Nagasaki City is a symbol of France’s role in the history of Christianity in Japan. Built in 1864 by two French priests, Bernard Thaddée Petitjean and Louis-Theodore Furet, it is the oldest wooden church still standing in Japan. The priests were overjoyed when Christians from Urakami Village visited the church a few months after its completion and revealed their faith. Visitors can appreciate the historical significance of this church and enjoy the beautiful stained glass windows. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/207
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Seasonal Specials Will Tiley lets us in on some early summer food favorites with restaurant recommendations from Dominic Balasuriya and Adam Eyre. Plus, umeshu making tips from Andrew Haddow! Summer is approaching! The weather is warming up and distinctly summery foods are appearing in local markets and kitchens. For Japanese people, the appearance of aji (horse mackerel) is a sign of seasonal change. The more unusual uni (sea urchin) and anago (conger eel) are also finding their way back onto menus. While not a traditional Japanese ingredient, juicy tomatoes start appearing everywhere, along with cucumbers and the classic izakaya snack, edamame. For those looking for an interesting home project, this is also the season for ume, or Japanese plums. Why not turn these tough, hard-to-eat fruits into delicious homemade umeshu? photo Dominic Balasuriya
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May/June 2017 | nagazasshi
Sushidokoro Shinichi
photo Dominic Balasuriya
〒817-1702 Tsushima Kamitsushima Furusato 13-3 ( 0920-86-3749
Sample the rich, full taste of Tsushima’s conger eel at Sushidokoro Shinichi. Don’t be put off by the edible bones—they add texture. The nigiri sushi features melt-in-your-mouth portions of succulent, flame-grilled anago. The katsu is a standout, with the crunchy breadcrumb coating contrasting perfectly with the firm, juicy flesh. Best of all, the restaurant is run by two brothers who catch the eels in the morning, and then serve them up fresh every night. Dominic Balasuriya
Hiiragi’s Tomato Ramen
photo Will Tiley
The thing that sets Hiiragi apart from other ramen shops is its specialty: tomato ramen. This ramen uses standard noodles in a rich tomato broth, topped with spinach and eggplant. The broth is filling, yet not as rich as tonkotsu ramen, with a flavor reminiscent of tomato soup. The eggplant adds texture, and the spinach helps you convince yourself it’s a healthy meal. Extra toppings can also be added if desired. Adam Eyre
〒850-0841 Nagasaki Dozamachi 6-8 Hana Bldg. 1F
( 0958-21-9210
How to make Umeshu
photo Will Tiley
Umeshu (梅酒) is usually translated as plum wine in English, and the kanji literally mean “plum alcohol.” Technically, neither of these are correct! Umeshu is made by flavoring other alcohols with ume plums and rock sugar. Layer 1 kg plums, 1 kg rock sugar, and 2 L of “white liquor,” a flavorless shochu, together in a sealable jar and wait 6-12 months. Swirl the jar every few days to dissolve the sugar. The plums are available in late May, and supermarkets usually have everything you need in an “umeshu corner.” It is said that using bourbon instead of white liquor makes for a far tastier (and far stronger) umeshu! Andrew Haddow
A (Different) Taste of
SASEBO SASEBO
Emmanuel M. Feliciano takes us on a tour of some of Sasebo’s best international restaurants Sasebo has always embodied the Nagasaki character: an exciting melting pot of cultures and people. This glorious mix includes an array of food choices from different parts of the world. For those looking for non-Japanese cuisine, Sasebo is a perfect place to discover gastronomic diversity.
I visited three ethnic restaurants and tested their specialties. It was indeed a tasty field trip, but aside from the burst of tastes, what I discovered behind the walls of the kitchen made me fall in love with these places even more. Here’s a bite of Sasebo’s diverse flavors.
Brothers at work: Queen Kebab Though not the only kebab place in Their kebab donburi, rice topped with Sasebo, Queen Kebab stands out for kebab meat, comes highly recommended, its convenient and is great for location, serving someone with a large size and English appetite. They really options. Brothers serve big and serve Edie and Kem run well at this restaurant. the place together and share the Other dishes to try cooking and include their popular serving duties. kebab fries, and their The atmosphere kebab sandwiches. is very casual All their kebab based BROTHERS and cozy, making dishes come in beef, AT you feel right at chicken, mixed beef WORK home. No wonder and chicken, falafel many people, (vegetarian), or lamb. especially the The kebab experience English speaking isn’t complete without ADDRESS 〒857-0806 SHIMANOSE-CHO 10-18 community in hummus or trying TELEPHONE 080-2709-7763 Sasebo, frequent one of their amazing WEB FACEBOOK.COM/QUEENKEBAB.SASEBO/ the restaurant. Turkish fruit juices. PHOTO QUEEN KEBAB E EXCELLENT
EDIE
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KEM
May/June 2017 | nagazasshi
From Thailand with love: Nila Kamal Nila Kamal has been around since 2009, and its novelty has made it popular with locals and foreigners alike. Co-owner Shino Musiga describes Nila Kamal as a result of a love story. She was on vacation in Thailand when she met Amnuay Musiga, a staff member at the hotel where she was staying. They fell in love and settled in Japan. Shino’s love for travel and Amnuay’s passion for Thai cuisine gave birth to Nila Kamal. Now, the restaurant is a family affair, with Shino’s sister helping out while Amnuay heads up the kitchen.
consists of the daily special, a side, noodle soup with spare ribs, jasmine rice, salad and a drink. For those who would like to go a la carte, the pad thai and spring rolls are a must, and for those who want a bit of spice, try the tom yum soup or the spicy green curry. Thai drinks are also available.
AMNUAY IS BACK!
The restaurant is a little tricky to get to without a car. Fortunately, the taxi drivers in Sasebo are familiar with it, so taking a cab is a good way to get there. The place has a welcoming and comfortable vibe, with interiors that transport you in to a tropical dining experience. The staff are friendly and can speak English, and the menu is also available in English.
SHINO MUSIGA’S
F RO M
THAILAND wit h L O VE
ADDRESS
The owners recommend the lunch set, which usually
TELEPHONE
WEB
PHOTO PROVIDED BY
〒857-0804 SASEBO 0956-25-5077 NILAKAMAL. SHINO MUSIGA WEB.FC2.COM MATSUKAWA-CHO D DELICIOUS 17-17
nagazasshi | May/June 2017
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The Sri Lankan Connection: King Coco King Coco owner Shanahan Kennedy came to Japan as an international student from Sri Lanka, and has since settled here. When asked why he set up his restaurant, he said that he wanted to introduce Sri Lankan cuisine and history to Japanese people. King Coco’s dishes are certainly unique. Its famous
spicy chicken curry, for example, uses milk from red coconuts found only in Sri Lanka. Another must try is their Sri Lankan style curry plate, which consists of different vegetable curry samplers, coconut sambal, saffron rice, and shrimp. This dish needs to be prebooked though, so make sure you call at least a day in advance. For those who simply want to walk in and try what King Coco can offer on the spot, their special menu comes in both Japanese and English. Spicy Sri Lankan style shrimp, sausage or chicken makes for a great main course. You can snack on roti with chicken curry, or satisfy your sweet tooth with kithul desserts. Also on offer are a range of coconut whiskeys, and spicy Sri Lankan tea. n
THE SRI LANKAN CONNECTION ADDRESS 〒858-0878
SASEBO YAMAGATACHO 4-5
TELEPHONE 0956-60-9082 WEB KINGCOCO.JP PHOTO EMMANUEL
M. FELICIANO
F
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FANTASTIC
Special thanks to: Daniel Taylor Avila and Masafumi Kanda for all the help.
May/June 2017 | nagazasshi
A TALE OF THREE CEMETERIES Learn about Nagasaki City’s three historic international cemeteries with Dominic Balasuriya One unique way to appreciate the rich tapestry of lives that have shaped Nagasaki’s history is to visit their final resting places. Three international cemeteries have served those who came across the seas to make Nagasaki their home, and each has a story to tell about Nagasaki’s changing relationship with the world. The Inasa Goshinji International Cemetery is the oldest of the three, watched over by the priests of Goshiniji Temple since the early 1600s. Though originally built for the Chinese residents of Nagasaki, during Japan’s period of national isolation (1633-1858), the “Hollandsche Begraafplaats,” or “Dutch
Cemetery” was also created at Goshinji. Encircled by a red-brick wall and iron gates, it was created in 1654 when Japan’s only contact with Europe was through the Dutch Trading Post on Dejima. Significantly, the grave of Hendrik Duurkoop, a Dutch East India Company employee, is the oldest legible European gravestone in Japan. Burials at the Dutch Cemetery continued for almost 200 years, ending with Janus Rhijnhoud in 1870. Today, Goshinji Cemetery is a short bus ride from Nagasaki station, and if the Dutch Cemetery is locked, ask for access at the temple office between 10:30am and 5:30pm.
With the arrival of Commodore Perry and the signing of treaties with the United States in the mid-19th century, foreigners were once again able to freely enter Japan. A new foreign settlement was created at Oura, in the south of Nagasaki City. The construction of the Oura International Cemetery soon followed in 1861, where people from England, America and various other European countries were buried. Of the many graves, the tombs of British sailors Robert Foad and John Hutchings tell a story of high-stakes international diplomacy. In 1867, the pair fell asleep in the streets after a night of heavy drinking, and were found murdered the next morning. The British consul demanded that the Nagasaki Magistrate find the perpetrator, who was eventually identified. However, this incident led the British to believe that the ruling
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Tokugawa Shogunate was unable to maintain peace in its ports, influencing the Shogunate’s eventual decline in power. With space in the Oura International Cemetery becoming an issue, the Sakamoto International Cemetery was built in 1888. Possibly the most wellknown person to be laid to rest here is Thomas Blake Glover, after whom Glover Garden is named. Originally from Scotland, Glover played an instrumental role in the industrialization of Japan. In this way, Nagasaki’s international cemeteries provide a fascinating crosssection of multicultural Nagasaki over time, in a way that no museum could. Spend a day wandering around the tombstones, and discover the past for yourself! n photos Jessica Richard
May/June 2017 | nagazasshi
Nihon(go) on the Go
If you’re not Japanese but reading this issue in Nagasaki, congratulations! You’re part of a long line of foreign nationals to find yourself here. Since the late 1500s, people the world over have visited Nagasaki and left their mark. One way they’ve influenced Nagasaki is by adding their cultures’ food to the local fare. Here are some notable examples: ちゃんぽん (champon) - A noodle dish of Chinese origin containing vegetables and seafood mixed together in a light broth. ちゃんぽん is also a word meaning “a mix of stuff not normally combined.” カステラ (kasutera) - A sweet sponge cake pre-cut into neat rectangles. This treat was brought over with Portuguese traders who also brought the Japanese their first taste of sugar. 佐世保バーガー (sasebo ba-ga-) - A hamburger including a fried egg and Japanese bacon. This burger was invented to attract American servicemen from the naval base in Sasebo. It worked. 角煮まんじゅう (kakuni manjuu) - Another delicious dish from China consisting of a square of braised pork served in a steamed bun. トルコライス (toruko raisu) - A one-plate meal consisting of pilaf, spaghetti, a deep-fried pork cutlet, and cabbage salad. Though named after the country Turkey, no such dish exists there. The name likely refers to the dish’s fusion of eastern and western food. 天ぷら (tempura) - This Japanese classic was actually brought to Japan though Nagasaki by Portuguese traders. On your food journey through Nagasaki you may hear 召し上がっ てください (meshi agatte kudasai), which is a very polite way of saying “enjoy your meal!” Be sure to say ご馳走様でした (gochisou sama deshita - thanks for the meal!) when you’ve finished. Happy eating!
Dan Cohen & Will Morgan