FR A G RA NCE Naomi Pendzialek
T0102470
FASH10106
CONTEXTS The Market Storytelling Innovation Personal opinion/ Exciting Brands Natural Rituals Potential Ideas
Cover photograph by me
Fig. 1, Perfume collection, The New York Times, 2018
THE MARKET The top leaders within the global fragrance industry are Coty, Inc which is a multinational beauty company that owns and partners with leading brands such as Balenciaga, Burberry, and Gucci. Making up 15% of the market value it is the leader within the fragrance industry. Secondly, Loreal which is another brand that owns leading designer brands like Yves Saint Laurent and Lancome, making up 9.1% of the market value. LVMH makes up 7.5% which is yet another brand that owns big brands like Christian Dior. Lastly, Chanel as an individual brand makes up 4.6% of the market value which is quite astounding being an individual brand. Overall, these leading brands make up 36.3% of the total market value within the fragrance industry (Euromonitor, 2018).
The current global fragrance market is driven by trends such as a high demand for natural, organic products. Another big factor influencing purchasing behaviour are e-retail platforms. The European fragrance market alone contributes 39.7% to the overall global fragrance market. In terms of the leading distribution channel within the market, health and beauty stores are the leading distribution force making 27.1% of the market value. Supermarkets make up 24.6% (Euromonitor, 2018).
As the quality of raw materials is extremely important due to on the one hand harmful effects of synthetic and chemical products but on the other hand the rising trend in having a sustainable lifestyle. As consumers, especially in Europe, are now shifting to a more cautious beauty routine and the demand for products containing natural and ethically sourced ingredients is rising, the fragrance market is now expected to reach 6.45 million dollars by 2027. Which is an increase of 11% (Euromonitor, 2018). Fig. 2, Loli Matcha Paste, WGSN, 2019
Primary Research Claudia, 38, Mainz, Germany - 4 years
Milena, 21, Berlin, Germany - 2 years
- fresh scent, good for work - loves Chanel scents (loyal to brand)
- fresh, everyday scent - good price point for designer fragrance
Fig. 3, Jil Sander Sun, Perfumes Club, 2020
Lena, 19, Nottingham - 1 year
- sweet yet wearable for everyday - refillable bottle (sustainable)
Fig. 6, Chanel Chance Eau Tendre, Perfumes Club, 2020
Mia, 20, Denver, Colorado - 2 years - floral, rosy, fresh - reminds her of rose fields
Fig. 7, YSL Mon Paris Floral, Perfumes Club, Fig. 4, Lancome Idole, Perfumes Club, 2020
Shani, 23, Newcastle - 11 years - floral everyday scent - reminds her of childhood
Fig. 5, Versace Yellow Diamond, Perfumes Club, 2020
2020
Sarah, 17, Stuttgart, Germany - 3 years
- sweet yet wearable for everyday - loves VS, wears brands clothes Fig. 8, Victorias Secret Bombshell, Perfumes Club, 2020
SWOT Analysis Strengths Currently still rising in sales. Can contribute to current sustainabilty trend by using organic and ethical ingredients. Niche brands are gaining popularity through influencers.
Weaknesses Marketing still very weak and
uncreative. People are not exposed to Niche brands yet and rely on designer fragrances. Niche brands don‘t have as much funding for big advertsisements. Not big efforts in e-retail advertisement. Main distribution channel still through beauty stores.
Small fragrance brands collaborating
Current pandemic is causing consumers
with other fragrance/beauty companies
to not focus on luxury/beauty products.
in order to grow, get more media
As marketing of high end brands is still
attention.
not very innovative, niche brands could
Fragrance brands advertising and
threaten luxury brands by coming up
relating more to Gen Z not only 25 +
with better marketing strategies.
age range.
Opportunities
Threats
Fig. 9, Byredo Bal D‘Afrique, Whowhatwear, 2020
STORYTELLING
Fig. 10, Fleur Monot, Pinterest, 2020
An important part of selling a smell is storytelling. Companies have to sell something that people are not able to even physically smell or see in advertisements. I have looked at a few quotes from professionals within the fragrance industry regarding storytelling and why it is still very uncreative and repetitive. I then categorised some current perfume adverts which helped me understand the marketing techniques better and look into how there are still gaps to be filled in terms of creativity and unexpectedness.
„Perfume ads hire top-end celebrities, models and directors; they can cost millions to produce. Perfume is hard to sell, as there are no tangible results that can be shown in an advert. So perfume needs the glitz and glamour.“
„The markets that really matter to these brands are emerging ones where Western fantasy is still sniffed up with gusto. When you wear a fragrance, you‘re spreading the dream.“
Nina Friede, director and founder of perfumery Friedemodin.
Tanner, founding partner of advertising agency, Duke.
„Creative ideas are used most frequently to make your product accessible to more people, whereas perfumes and high-end fashion want to appear elite. Truly elite products let their reputation do the talking, and they don‘t want the risk of trying something that might appear „mass market”.
„Many of them have in-house creative departments who all end up with the same strategy; it‘s attraction plus something. Attraction plus rebellion, passion, or individuality. They don‘t care what plebs like us think“.
Iain Hunter, executive creative director, ad agency Stack.
Peter Murphy, creative director, Hunterlodge Advertising
Intense/Dark Styling Edgy music
Fig. 11, Dua Lipa, YSL Libre, Moodie Davitt Report 2020
REBELLION
Escaping something Gang/Clique feeling
Fig. 12, YSL Libre campaign, Moodie Davitt Report, 2020
YSL - LIBRE
Fig. 14, Cara Delevigne, Burberry Her campaign, Allure 2018
Fig. 13, Cara Delevigne, Burberry Her campaign, Allure, 2018
BURBERRY - HER
INDIVIDUALITY Minimal styling
Diverse cast People over perfume
BOSS - ALIVE
Fig. 15, 16, Boss Alive campaign, Moodie Davitt Report,2020
Pointing out traits
Fig. 18,19, CK One Campaign, Businesswire 2020
Fig. 17, CK One campaign, Businesswire, 2020
CK - ONE
PASSION Fancy Dresscode Lovestory Romantic/ Quirky music Intimacy
Fig. 20, 21, Gucci Guilty Campaign, Moodie Davitt Report, 2020
GUCCI - GUILTY
Fig. 23, Emma Stone, Louis Vuitton campaign, Louis Vuitton, 2020
Fig. 22, Emma Stone, Louis Vuitton campaign, Louis Vuitton,2020
Fig. 24, Emma Stone, Louis Vuitton campaign, Louis Vuitton, 2020
LOUIS VUITTON - HEURES D‘ABSENCE
INNOVATION
Fig. 25, Lab Photograph, Florian Sommet Photography, 2020
As brands are moving and investing rapidly into technological ways to strengthen their online market, a few niche brands have already thought about scent technology and developed some interesting techniques on how we can use and experience scent. Experts even expect that by 2030 scents will be transmitted through online chats. This could solve the issue of selling fragrances online and create dozens of new opportunities within the fragrance industry (WGSN,2020).
Fig. 26, Dover Street Parfums Market, Dezeen, 2019
In terms of experiencing scent and perfumes in retail I found that Rei Kawakubo has done a unique and exciting job at expanding his regular Dover Street Market and opening a branch exclusively for perfumes in Paris.
„A lot of what we do at CDG and Dover Street Market is the result of accidents and fortuitousness, right place and right timing ideas.“ Rei Kawakubo
DOVER STREET PARFUMS MARKET
Fig. 27,28, Dover Street Parfums Market, Dezeen, 2019
Fig. 29, Dover Street Parfums Market, Dezeen, 2019
Fig. 30, Nota Nota App, Nota Nota, 2020
Fig. 31, Perfume machine, Nota Nota, 2020
Nota Nota is a middle eastern brand that has created a machine which gives conusmers the option to create their own scent and save it via app to share with others who are then able to also recreate the scent.
Fig. 32, Nota Nota App, Youtube, 2017
Fig. 34, Nota Nota guide, Nota Nota, 2020
Fig. 33, Nota Nota App, Youtube, 2017
Fig. 35, Sommelier De Parfum, 2020
Fig. 37, Sommelier De Parfum, 2020
Fig. 36, Sommelier De Parfum, WGSN, 2018
Sommelier Du Parfum is a perfume generating website which uses Artificial intelligence to give the best recommendations for their customers. After taking a test the customer gets to choose their top scents and have a sample box sent to them.
Fig. 38, Sommelier De Parfum, 2020
PERSONAL OPINION
Fig. 39, Byredo Soap, Victoria Zschommler, 2020
For my personal selection of brands I looked at brands that are doing things innovatively in areas like branding, retail experience as well as social media presence. As we are living in a digital age, brands have to focus on their online presence as much as on their products in order to attract consumers, especially considering Generation Z and millenials.
Fig. 41,42, Sillages Paris Website, Sillages Paris, 2020
Sillages Paris
Fig. 40, Sillages Paris perfume, Sillages Paris, 2020
Sillages Paris is a Paris based perfumery which makes specialised scents for their customers. It has a selection of notes on their website and is able to generate an ideal scent based on various questions. It also offers a free session in their perfumery to make sure that consumers can find their ideal perfume.
Fig. 43, Sillages Paris appointment, Sillages Paris, 2020
Fig. 44, 45, Sillages Paris perfumery, Sortira Paris, 2019
Vihelm Parfumerie is a brand that represents storytelling very well. Each perfume is based on experiences and references which is brought out nicely with the artwork surrounding the perfumes.
Fig. 47, 48, 49, Vilhelm Parfumerie, Instagram, 2020
Fig. 46, Vilhelm Parfumerie artwork, Vilhelm Parfumerie, 2020
Vilhelm Parfumerie
Fig. 50, Vilhelm Parfumerie New York, L Arkitekter, 2020
Fig. 52, Byredo x Off-white, Instagram, 2020
Fig. 53, Byredo perfume, Instagram, 2020
Fig. 51, Byredo artwork, Instagram, 2020
Byredo
Byredo is a scandinavian niche brand which has been gaining a lot of popularity in the past few years. Their overall aesthetic is very simple and their online presence is very strong. Byredo is not only a perfume brand but also offer fashion and collaborated with streetwear label Off-white to create a limited edition perfume.
Byredo, China
Fig. 54, Byredo store China, Byredo, 2020
Fig. 55, Byredo store UK, Byredo, 2020
Byredo, UK
NATURAL RITUALS
Fig. 56, own moodboard created with Adobe Illustrator, 2020
Natural Rituals has been a booming topic for the past years. Topics such as veganism, natural beauty routines, and sustainability. For this theme I chose brands as well as well as current trends which I think truly resonate this theme as many brand have jumped on the sustainability trend quickly in order to get more attention from consumers.
Fig. 57, Dr. Hauschka toner, Dr. Hauschka, 2020 Fig. 58, Dr. Hauschka cosmetics, Dr. Hauschka, 2020
Dr. Hauschka is a German beauty and medical brand which has been using 100% certified natural products since 1967 before sustainabilty has been a trend (Dr. Hauschka, 2020). It has been gaining lots of popularity on social media as influencers have been pushing more sustainable brands. This brand is a great example of following natural rituals from the beginning and being loyal to it rather than using it as a marketing strategy.
Fig. 59, 60, The Goop Lab, Netflix , 2020
Gwyneth Paltrow‘s brand The Goop has launched a Netflix series on topics such as energy healing, psychedelic drugs, cold-therapy, anti-aging, and female sexuality. As her brand has been around since 2008 this has been a good way of promoting her brand more as it revolves trending topics like clean eating, natural beauty routines, and spirituality.
Fig. 61, 62, Stella McCartney, 2020
Stella McCartney‘s influence on brands focusing more on sustainability has been rising the past few years. As her brand has been eco friendly since the start she sets a great example for the fashion industry by not using materials like fur and leather. Her ethics are highly respected by people in the industry and she and her brand show how sustainability and fashion can work together.
Fig. 63, 64, 65, Haeckels products , Haeckels, 2020
Haeckels is a British brand that focuses on bringing nature to peoples beauty routine. It brings awareness to topics such as climate change and has sustainable packaging made from natural resources such as algea. It also has a blog that shows how the brand gets their inspirations from nature.
Fig. 66, 67, Haeckels blog & Algae packaging, Haeckels, 2020
For my two potential ideas I have firstly came up with the idea of creating a platform for niche brands as I think they can be pushed more and introduced more to Gen Z and Millenial consumers. As I have seen from my primary research I noticed how people still rely on designer fragrance as it is easier to find and most often introduced to within beauty stores. This platform could have pop ups all over different cities introducing new niche brands for consumers to try. As Generation Z is all about posting their experiences online this could attract them by also using it as a photo oppurtunity while at the same time promoting new brands online.
POTENTIAL IDEAS
Secondly, my second idea is a storytelling idea. As storytelling has still been very uncreative and repetitive, I thought that perfume brand could witch the roles and make it more about the consumer rather than an actress or model. Consumers could collect their favourite flowers and how they connect with them, in particular with a memory. These flowers could be sent to the perfumery which then will made into a personalised scent. This could then be posted on social media with a hashtah as a creative way of storytelling and promoting smaller brands.
References Banymadhub, Y., 2016. 10 Best Natural And Organic Perfumes. [online] The In-
Weil, J., 2019. FOCUS ON FRAGRANCE [online]. WWD, pp.17–17. Available at:
dependent. Available at: <https://www.independent.co.uk/extras/indybest/fa-
http://search.proquest.com/docview/2248289129/.
shion-beauty/best-organic-natural-perfume-a6917386.html> [Accessed 22 April 2020].
Edelson, S., 2019. Byredo Sets Store Openings [online]. WWD, pp.5–5. Available at: http://search.proquest.com/docview/2319664607/.
Wgsn.com. 2020. Big Ideas Beauty: 2021. [online] Available at: <https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82211/page/4> [Accessed 23 April 2020].
Born, P., 2016. BEAUTY‘S BIG BUYS [online]. WWD, 211(50), pp.44–45. Available at: http://search.proquest.com/docview/2232623821/.
Levy, N., 2019. Rei Kawakubo Creates Parisian Beauty Store Dover Street Parfums Market. [online] Dezeen. Available at: <https://www.dezeen.com/2019/10/09/do-
Anonymous, 2018. THE FUTURE OF FRAGRANCE & GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES
ver-street-parfums-market-rei-kawakubo-interiors/> [Accessed 23 April 2020].
[online]. Global Cosmetic Industry, 186(3). Available at: http://search.proquest. com/docview/2100384456/.
Nota-nota.com. 2020. NOTA NOTA – Your Personal Touch. [online] Available at: <https://nota-nota.com/> [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Sommelierduparfum.com. 2020. Sommelier Du Parfum. [online] Available at: <https://sommelierduparfum.com/en/> [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Wgsn.com. 2020. The Future Of Fragrance. [online] Available at: <https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80762/page/11> [Accessed 23 April 2020].
En.wikipedia.org. 2020. The Goop Lab. [online] Available at: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Goop_Lab> [Accessed 23 April 2020]. The New York Times, 2018. The New Softies. Available at: <https://www.nytimes. com/2018/03/14/style/perfume-that-smells-like-nothing.html> [Accessed 18 April 2020].
Illustrations Fig. 1, Perfume collection, The New York Times, 2018. The New Softies.
Fig. 8, Victorias Secret Bombshell, Perfumes Club, 2020. Availabe at: <https:// www.perfumesclub.at/de/victorias-secret/bombshell-body-mist/p_64431/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Available at: <https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/14/style/perfume-that-smells-like-nothing.html> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 9, Byredo Bal D‘Afrique, Whowhatwear, 2020. Available at: <https://www. whowhatwear.co.uk/byredo-perfume>
Fig. 2, Loli Matcha Paste, WGSN, 2019
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
WGSN, 2019. [image] Available at: <https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/82211/page/4> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 10, Fleur Monot, Pinterest, 2020. Available at: <https://www.pinterest.de/ pin/617767273874369679/.>
Fig. 3, Jil Sander Sun, Perfumes Club, 2020. 2020. Available at: <https://www.per-
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
fumesclub.at/de/jil-sander/jil-sander-sun-eau-de-toilette-zerstauber/p_32540/> [Accessed 22 April 2020].
Fig. 11, Dua Lipa, YSL Libre, Moodie Davitt Report, 2020. Available at: < https:// www.moodiedavittreport.com/libre-yves-saint-laurent-launches-gender-bending-
Fig. 4, Lancome Idole, Perfumes Club, 2020. Available at: <https://www.perfu-
new-fragrance-with-dua-lipa-as-brand-ambassador/>
mesclub.at/de/lancome/idole-eau-de-parfum-spray/p_293700/>
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
[Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 5, Versace Yellow Diamond, Perfumes Club, 2020. Available at: <https:// www.perfumesclub.at/de/versace/yellow-diamond-eau-de-toilette-zerstauber/p_43290/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 12, YSL Libre campaign, Moodie Davitt Report, 2020. Availabe at: <https:// www.moodiedavittreport.com/libre-yves-saint-laurent-launches-gender-bendingnew-fragrance-with-dua-lipa-as-brand-ambassador/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 6, Chanel Chance Eau Tendre, Perfumes Club, 2020. Available at: <https://
Fig. 13, Cara Delevigne, Burberry Her campaign, Allure, 2018. Available at: <
www.perfumesclub.at/de/chanel/chance-eau-tendre-eau-de-parfum-
https://www.allure.com/story/cara-delevingne-burberry-her-fragrance-interview>
spray/p_126260/>
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
[Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 14, Cara Delevigne, Burberry Her campaign, Allure, 2018. Available at: < Fig. 7, YSL Mon Paris Floral, Perfumes Club, 2020. Available at: < https://www.perfumesclub.at/de/yves-saint-laurent/mon-paris-floral/p_091359/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
https://www.allure.com/story/cara-delevingne-burberry-her-fragrance-interview> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 15, 16, Boss Alive campaign,Moodie Davitt Report, 2020. Available at: <
Fig. 36, Sommelier Du Parfum, WGSN, 2018. Available at: <https://www.wgsn.
https://www.moodiedavittreport.com/for-women-by-women-coty-introduces-
com/content/board_viewer/#/80762/page/9>
boss-alive-eau-de-parfum/>
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 37, 38, Sommelier Du Parfum, 2020. Available at: https://sommelierduparfum.
Fig. 17, 18, 19, CK One campaign, Businesswire, 2020. Availble at: https://mms.
com/en/
businesswire.com/media/20200129005753/de/770095/5/CK_EVERYONE_AD_VI-
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
SUAL_1.jpg?download=1 [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 20, 21, Gucci Guilty Campaign, Moodie Davitt Report, 2020. Available at: < h ttps://www.moodiedavittreport.com/?s=gucci+guilty< [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 22, 23, 24 Emma Stone, Louis Vuitton campaign, Louis Vuitton, 2020. Available at: <https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/magazine/articles/les-parfums-femme-louis-vuitton> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 39, Byredo Soap, Victoria Zschommler, 2020. Available at: <http://superbe.co/ talent/victoria-zschommler/> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 40, 41, 42, 43, Sillages Paris perfume, Sillages Paris, 2020. Available at: <https://sillagesparis.com/en/29-ateliers> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 44, 45, Sillages Paris perfumery, Sortira Paris, 2019. Available at: <https://www. sortiraparis.com/interests/shopping-fashion/articles/199099-sillages-paris-a-cus-
Fig. 25, Lab Photograph, Florian Sommet Photography, 2020, Availabe at:
tom-made-exceptional-perfume/lang/en>
<https://www.floriansommet.com/y9xmvtl8fn2qxnz1ss4ngo578kj5k6>
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 46, Vilhelm Parfumerie artwork, Vilhelm Parfumerie, 2020. Available at:
Fig. 26, 27, 28, 29, Dover Street Parfums Market, Dezeen, 2019. Available at:
<https://vilhelmparfumerie.com/>
<https://www.dezeen.com/2019/10/09/dover-street-parfums-market-rei-kawaku-
[Accessed 22 April 2020]
bo-interiors/> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, Nota Nota App/machine, Nota Nota, 2020. Available at:
Fig. 47, 48, 49, Vilhelm Parfumerie, Instagram, 2020. Available at: <https://www. instagram.com/vilhelm_parfumerie/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
<https://nota-nota.com/> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 35, Sommelier Du Parfum, 2020. Available at: <https://sommelierduparfum. com/en/> [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 50, Vilhelm Parfumerie New York, L Arkitekter, 2020. Available at: https://larkitekter.se/portfolio/uncategorized/vilhelm-showroom/ [Accessed 22 April 2020]
Fig. 51, 52, 53, Byredo artwork, Instagram, 2020. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/officialbyredo/ [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 54, 55, Byredo store China/UK, Byredo, 2020. Available at: <https://www.byredo.com/eu_en/?SID=965bc68ff42c41ab8d8aa9a2f909458e> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 56, own moodboard created with Adobe Illustrator, 2020 Fig. 57, 58, Dr. Hauschka cosmetics, Dr. Hauschka, 2020. Available at: <https:// www.drhauschka.de/en/cosmos/company/specific-sustainability/> [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 59, 60, The Goop Lab, Netflix , 2020. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/The_Goop_Lab [Accessed 22 April 2020] Fig. 61, 62, Stella McCartney, 2020. Available at: <https://www.stellamccartney. com/de> [Accessed 22 April 2020]