Na Pali Coast Magazine, Issue 8 (2023/2024)

VOLCANIC

KAUA’I

b y A ni t urner

t he steep , plunging cliffs of n ā p A li c o A st st A nd A s A true test A ment to k A u A i ’ s gre A t , volc A nic p A st . t hese A re the remn A nts of the n āp A li form A tion . the eroded cliffs of yesterye A r , A nd the most spect A cul A r displ A y of geogr A phy in the world .

VOLCANIC KAUA’I

RED DIRT. There is great significance to the deep, orange hues that brightly paint the landscape throughout Kaua’i.

Once active volcanoes, the islands in Hawai’i are primarily composed of basalt rock originating from hardened lava flows. The basalt rock is very rich in iron minerals. With extreme weathering over millions of years, the iron has oxidized, or rusted, resulting in the red-colored dirt found everywhere in the islands. Red dirt is soil of a clayey consistency, and is actually quite infertile.

The Hawaiian Island archipelago consists of 132 islands, atolls, reefs, shallow banks, shoals, and seamounts, and spans a total length of sixteen-hundred miles. The continuous northwestward movement of the Pacific Tectonic Plate across the fixed Hawaiian Magmatic Hot Spot is responsible for the formation of the entire Hawaiian Island chain. Incredibly, islands have been forming from this fixed hot spot for over 80 million years.

Kaua’i is the northernmost island of the eight, main Hawaiian islands, but the entire island chain extends much further: from The Big Island of Hawai’i in the west, to Midway and Kure in the east. Initially, Kaua’i was located where the Big Island of Hawai’i is today. As you move from west to east, the islands become younger. For example, the Big Island of Hawai’i is the youngest island in the Hawaiian Island chain, and is still quite volcanically active. To the southeast of it lies Lo’ihi Seamount, Hawai’i’s newest submarine volcano which is completely underwater at this time. Lo’ihi could become Hawaii’s newest island when it breaks the surface of the ocean some day.

Kaua’i is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, but just exactly how old is Kaua’i? Geologists have concluded that the island is at least 5.1 million years old, with chemical testing indicating that Kaua’i contains rocks between 5.6 to 3.8 million years old.

k A u A i ’ s rich volc A nic history is the re A son for the deep , or A nge hues th A t brightly p A int the hills A nd v A lleys

A cross the isl A nd . t he burnt or A nge color of this eroded cliff is c A used by the high content of iron oxide in the soil . k A u A ’ i h A s experienced intense we A thering over millions of ye A rs , A nd the red cl A y soil is A direct result of A n extremely wet A nd windy clim A te .

VOLCANIC KAUA’I

There has been some argument over whether Kaua’i formed from a single, major volcano or more than just one. A 2010 study from the University of Hawai’i revealed that there were actually two major shield volcanoes responsible for the island’s formation, one on Kaua’i and one in the region between Kaua’i and Ni’ihau. Ni’ihau is the island located west of Kaua’i and is therefore the remnant of the first volcano.

Once dome-shaped, Kaua’i’s physical appearance has gone through many phases over the past 5 million years. First arising from a submarine volcano (e.g. an undersea volcanic eruption), the island formed when the eruption finally broke the surface of the ocean as a central shield volcano, followed by landslides, shield collapse, and a series of more volcanic eruptions.

There continues to be a constant state of erosion occurring on Kaua’i, and this will eventually lead to the shrinking of the island back into the ocean. Scientists predict this may happen in 2-3 million years.

Kaua’i is fourth in size among the main Hawaiian Islands at 555 square miles of land— it’s 33 miles long and 25 miles wide. Its highest point is near the center of the island at Kawaikini Peak at 5,170 feet. Second highest is Mt. Wai’ale’ale at 5,148 feet. Mt. Wai’ale’ale is literally the wettest spot on earth, with some portions of the summit recorded as receiving 600 inches of rain per year. All of this water feeds the island’s vegetation on a consistent basis, creating waterfalls, streams, verdant valleys and spectacular green and orange cliffs that have given Kaua’i its nickname of “The Garden Isle.”

The Nā Pali Coast of Kaua’i is an example of a shoreline that has been severely eroded by wave action. In the winter months, it is customary for the north and northeast-facing shores to receive surf with heights of up to 40 feet. This wave action is further intensified when combined with Hawaiian trade winds and rains, which cut through the porous rocks like knives. Spectacular sea arches and sea caves have formed in the cliffs as a result of the relentless, pounding surf.

VOLCANIC KAUA’I

t he se A cliffs A long n ā p A li c o A st provide A n opportunity to see wh A t h A ppens intern A lly when A volc A nic cone erupts . t he pressure from hot , liquid m A gm A forms cr A cks in the existing h A rdened , l A v A beds . t his hot l A v A then flows into the cr A cks , A nd cools slowly over time . t he resulting l A v A dikes A re the “ veins of the volc A nic rock .” o ne could m A p out the dikes ’ directions , to determine roughly where the center of the origin A l volc A nic cone w A s loc A ted .

b y c hris t urner

When looking at the sharp, sheer cliffs and rugged terrain of the Nā Pali Coast, it seems like an impossible place for people to have lived. Yet, when the first Polynesian settlers sailed to Hawai’i in A.D. 850, they were quite enchanted by the pleasant, Hawaiian climate and plentiful amounts of natural resources. Wasting no time, they adapted to the Island’s challenges and set up camp.

Utilizing double-hulled voyaging canoes, the settlers brought everything they would need to successfully inhabit the Island. Among these items were coconuts for planting trees, taro (kalo) root, sugarcane, wild ginger, banana plants, ti plants, breadfruit, and yams. They also brought livestock such as pigs, chickens, and even dogs. The fringing reefs of Kaua’i, built up over time by the year-round, warm temperature of the sea water, created the perfect setting for a variety of edible marine life to inhabit. This was excellent for the women and children to obtain seafood from, and created a highly, nutritious diet for their families.

One notable fishing site was Nā Pali’s Nu’alolo Kai reef, which juts out into the sea, forming a natural jetty that protects the inner bay from the strong, northeast trade winds which bring crashing waves to this area year-round. Nu’alolo Kai’s reef teemed with fish and other wildlife such as sea turtles, seaweed, and edible sea shells, making life here quite sustainable for Kauai’s early inhabitants.

Despite living in an abundant paradise, life for the settlers was not entirely easy. Their daily reality was to survive against the harsh and quickly changing elements that nature presented to them.

During the winter months, the ocean and much of the shoreline was made inaccessible by the pounding giant surf which could reach heights of 40-feet at times, making it all but impossible to launch the fishing canoes.

Luckily, the settlers farmed taro, a root crop, which was relied upon as a staple in their diet. Taro is one of the most nutritious plants on earth, and valuable since none of the plant goes to waste. The corm of the taro plant may be pounded with a pounder into a gummy food called poi and preserved (e.g.semi-fermented) for later eating. Its leaves, when cooked, are spinach-like, vitaminrich, and quite delicious.

Kaua’i’s mountain slopes presented themselves green and lush with vegetation, which indicated that there was an abundance of fresh water available. The settlers built farming terraces with elaborate stone walls along the streams, which allowed for natural irrigation of their crops. Materials required for housing and canoe-building were abundant for the early settlers of Kaua’i. Two to three steep, treacherous trails led to a good supply of wood in the Kōke’e forests above the south end of Kalalau Valley. Eventually, the critical demand for firewood led the valley to become deforested, except for hala trees whose leaves, or lauhala, were used for making huts, mats and clothing necessities. The area appeared rather barren except for the occasional bread fruit or coconut tree. The most sacred koa trees were also spared in order to utilize them for making canoes.

During the rainy season, floods were expect- ed and accepted as part of the lifestyle. They were respected for the fact that they brought the renewal of vegetation, but also feared for creating potential landslides or earth slumps on the high cliffs above—even long after the rains ceased.

There were always areas of dry sand which would be heated by the sun during the day. This created a place for the people to have a reprieve from the colder, wetter regions, where they could warm themselves naturally in the Hawaiian sun.

In the 1860’s, the Nā Pali Coast’s Kalalau Valley became used as a place to send persons afflicted with leprosy (aka Hansen’s Disease). Since Kalalau Valley is surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, opening out to the sea at the front, its remoteness was therefore much appreciated by the Hawaiian government as well as the leprous people who wished to live in seclusion away from judgement.

It is estimated that by the late 1890’s, as many as thirty-five leprous persons were living in Kalalau alongside many other people who were nonleprous.

Most Hawaiians had moved out from Kalalau by the early 1900s to the safer, less remote areas of Kauai.

Ancient Hawaiians at work on Kalalau Beach. Na Pali Coast, Kaua’i.

n A p A li ’ s n u ’ A lolo k A i reef juts out to the se A , forming A n A tur A l jetty th A t protects the inner b A y from the strong , northe A st tr A de winds th A t bring cr A shing w A ves to the co A st ye A r - round . n u ’ A lolo k A i is teeming with tropic A l fish , se A turtles , se A weed , A nd edible se A shells . f or this re A son , n u ’ A lolo k A i w A s once the site of A flourishing , h A w A ii A n fishing vill A ge

Depiction of the fishing village that once existed at Nu’alolo Kai. Na Pali Coast, Kaua’i.

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Taro Fields in Hanalei Hanalei Bay

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Wailua Falls

Opaeka’a Falls

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Spouting Horn

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Touring Nā Pali Coast

Kē’ē

Beach is located at the end of the north shore’s road (Hwy. 560) on Kaua’i. It is also known as the gateway to the Nā Pali Coast by way of the Hanakāpī’ai Trail and Kalalau Trail.

Ho’olulu means “protected bay or waters.” The cove was once an area where ancient Hawaiian canoers took refuge. There are three sea caves at Ho’olulu.

The Hanakāpī’ai Trail is a 2-mile hike from Kē’ē Beach, and takes you to Hanakāpī’ai Beach, a sandy beach surrounded by a heavenly rainforest-like valley. Hiking further into the valley, one will discover an amazing waterfall. Beware of the tempting ocean here—the Nā Pali Coast ocean currents are an invisible killer at this location, taking many peoples’ lives through the years—when in doubt DO NOT go out.

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave means “great blowhole,” and was named this because the cave literally turns into a giant, spewing blowhole in the winter months when the pounding surf crashes against it. Boat captains have nicknamed it Pirate’s Cave. This cave has a large entrance, and is 951 feet in length.

Ke’e Beach

2 Hanakāpī’ai

3 Ho’olulu Cove

3a Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave

Waiahuakua Valley Double-door Cave

At1,155 feet in length, the Waiahuakua Sea Cave is second on the list in rank for the world’s longest sea caves. This dark and spooky sea cave has a separate entrance and exit, and is nicknamed the Double- door Sea Cave. Inside the cave’s corridor, a lively waterfall gushes down through a hole in the ceiling. This is, handsdown, the most thrilling sea cave to explore on the Nā Pali Coast.

TheNā Pali Coast Sea Arch is highlighted by Pōhakuao Falls in the background. When sea conditions are extremely calm, smaller vessels (e.g. rafts and kayaks) may travel right through the arch. Upon exiting, you will be treated to a panoramic view of the entire Nā Pali Coast.

Hanakoa

Valley is often used as a halfway point camping station for those hiking the Kalalau Trail. A large portion of the Bali Hai Ridge is here. The back of the valley is surrounded by 2,000 ft. high cliffs, with a waterfall cascading down the middle of the ridge.

4

5 Hanakoa Valley

Pōhakuao Falls & Sea Arch

The 11-mile Kalalau Trail comes to an official end at Kalalau Beach. Depending on the season, Kalalau Beach may be a narrow strip of sand, or a long, expansive, sandy beach. Hikers must obtain a permit to camp overnight here. The spell-binding Kalalau Valley forms the backdrop to the beach, and is famous for the dramatic peaks and pinnacles which shape the interior walls of the valley.

Kalalau

For Hollywood (aka “Nā Pali-wood”), Honopū Beach is a favorite movie filming location. Six Days Seven Nights, King Kong, and Pirates of the Caribbean are just a few productions that easily come to mind. Honopū Beach made its most famous Hollywood debut in Goldfinger, when James Bond is seen riding in a red helicopter, being chased under and through Honopū’s natural seaside archway.

Honopū is also known as “The Valley of the Lost Tribe.” This name refers to ancient times when this now silent, brooding valley was believed to be the setting for a group of mythical Mū people, who later vanished for no apparent reason. It is also believed that the upper valley was inhabitated by ~300 Hawaiians. They would have been shielded from invaders by the 3,000-foot high, sheer cliffs that line the back of the valley. Visitors have reported feeling a very uncomfortable, eery presence at Honopū, and it is believed that ancient spirits still wander forlornly through the valley.

TheOpen-ceiling Cave, also known as Queen’s Bath, is actually a hollowed-out lava tube on Nā Pali Coast. The ceiling of the cave has crashed into the sea floor below. When the surf on Nā Pali Coast is minimal, smaller crafts can safely enter the cave, treating passengers to a spectacular view of the sky above, due to the “open ceiling.” In the summer season, the mid-morning sunlight streams through the cave’s dark entrance, penetrating the crystal-clear waters and reflecting off of the white, sandy bottom. The result is electrifying, as colors of blues and greens seem to glow out of the water at the cave entrance—it’s truly spellbinding.

8 Honopū Beach

9 Open-ceiling Cave

Awa‘awapuhi is the narrowest and deepest of Nā Pali’s

Valley is the narrowest and deepest of Nā Pali’s remote, isolated valleys. Legends say that the name refers to the valley’s sinuous curves and twists, which wind between 3,000-foot walls, like a slithering eel, or puhi. Another legend claims that the valley is named for the wild ginger, or ‘awapuhi, that grows there. Nowadays, this valley of the wild ginger appears far less lush than it was in ancient times, since the irrigated terraces for cultivating taro plants have long since fallen away. There can still be seen a multitude of half-washed away rock dams that at one time went completely through the stream to create perfect terraces for growing taro. On its western side, at the point overlooking the ocean, is a rock wall temple platform, or heiau, once used for worship.

Nu‘alolo Kai Beach was the portal to the sea for the people living in Nu’alolo ‘Āinā Valley. A premier, fishing village once flourished here, though only traces of it now remain. While plantings behind the beach provided some food and medicine for the people, it was the protected reef that was most prized for its supply of multicolored fish, seaweeds, and shellfish, such as ‘opihi limpets and pipipi snails. Outrigger canoes most likely lined the beach, ready for offshore fishing when schools of oceanic fishes like aku,

Nu‘alolo

‘Āinā is impressive due to the visible remains of terraces, used for growing taro. Taro, or kalo, grows in watery paddy fields and upland rainy areas, and is considered a perfect food plant all around. Its heart-shaped green leaves have a delicious, spinach flavor, while its starchy tuber is similar in consistency to a potato. Hawaiians resided in this valley for hundreds of years, well into the early 20th century. Adjacent to it, and once connected by a primitive ladder over the separating cliff, is the Nu’alolo Kai Beach and Valley, which also contains multiple, elaborate lava rock terraces visible from the ocean.

Miloli‘i

Beach is a wide, expansive beach and a favorite camping and resting spot for kayakers during the spring and summer months, when the Nā Pali Coast becomes calm enough for day excursions. Unlike Kalalau Beach, there is no connecting hiking trail into Miloli‘i. It is accessible only by small boat or kayak. The narrow channel through the reef is especially tricky to navigate when the tradewinds are blowing strongly.

10 Awa’awapuhi Valley

Awa‘awapuhi

11 Nu‘alolo ‘Āinā Valley

12 Nu’alolo Kai

akule and ‘ōmilu came near.

Green sea turtles bask in the sun at low tide.

For a depiction of how ancient peoples may have lived at Nu’alolo Kai, see pages 12-15.

13 Miloli’i Beach

Open-ceiling Cave

Also known as Queen’s Bath, the Open-ceiling Cave is the world’s most impressive example of a littoral sink. Here, the ceiling has collapsed entirely into the sea floor below, creating a cylindrical chamber that measures ~150-feet in diameter. A narrow, seaward entrance allows small boats and kayaks to enter the cave and perform a circular route around the interior rock island. The depth inside the cave is 65-feet.

Honopu Cave

Honopu Sea Cave has its own unique features and views. As you enter, glance back at the waterfall which is framed in by the cave’s entrance. Look for schools of small fish hiding in the shadows and possibly a white-tip reef shark looking to make a meal out of those fish. See nesting seabirds in the crevices of the walls. As you get deeper into the cave, the walls of the cave edges stand out even more. The grayish-black lava rock contrasts with the pinkish-red coral growing at the surf line.

Honopu Sea Arch

Honopu Sea Arch is a popular Hollywood movie setting. Many movies have been made at this location, including Pirates of the Caribbean, King Kong, and Goldfinger with the dramatic helicopter scene of James Bond flying right through the arch. There is an air of mystery here, for the backdrop of Honopu Valley has been nick-named “Valley of the Lost Tribe.” Its ominous walls tower over 3,000-feet high. Many stories are told of this valley as being haunted by ancient warrior spirits of long ago.

Na Pali Sea Arch

Nā Pali Sea Arch is around the corner from Hanakoa Valley. On rare occasions when the sea conditions are calm, the experience of rafting through the Sea Arch may be realized. Upon exiting, the view looking west is truly a “post card moment” capturing a panoramic view down the Nā Pali coastline with waterfalls plunging into the sea from rugged sea cliffs above, and the expansive Pacific Ocean all around.

Waiahuakua Sea Cave

The Waiahuakua Sea Cave is 1,155- feet long, making it the largest of the Nā Pali sea caves, and the second longest sea cave in the United States. Waiahuakua Sea Cave means “sacred water” but is known to most as the Double Door Cave because it has a separate entrance and exit. ~200- feet into the cave, a littoral sink allows a perennial waterfall to gush down the cave’s western wall. When the afternoon summer light shines through the hole, a glowing spotlight appears in the water below.

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave is nick-named the Pirates Cave, but literally translates to “great blowhole,” because in the winter months, the crashing surf turns the cave into a powerful blowhole that spews water straight back out to sea.

Honu, the traditional Hawaiian name for the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), is one of Hawaii’s most beloved creatures. These days, spotting a honu swimming in nearshore waters is a common sighting. However, this was not the case several decades ago when the species was hunted to the brink of extinction by the commercial fishing industry.

Around the globe, honu is prized for the delicate flavor of its greenish-colored meat. Many cultures are still serving up turtle soup as a popular menu item. Not to long ago, Hawai’i also boasted an appetite for the honu This practice began in ancient Hawaiian times, when eating honu was saved only for the kings, or ali’i to consume on very special occasions.

Over time, Hawai’i became a melting pot of many races, and honu was served at restaurants and lū’aus (feasts), contributing to a widespread consumer demand for turtle meat and eggs. This, in turn, was a disaster for the honu population in Hawai’i.

But things are looking much brighter these days, thanks to the enforcement of state and federal laws that make it illegal to harass, harm, or harvest honu. And although the honu population has experienced a notable recovery in Hawai’i, threats still remain. There is a mysterious, fibropapilloma (tumor) disease affecting the viability of the population. Other threats are shark predation, loss of habitat, entanglement in commercial fishing gear, and harm from the accidental ingestion of marine debris. We humans are undoubtedly the largest threat to our precious honu friends.

The honu have been around since the age of the dinosaurs. They are the true ancients of Hawai’i. They are to be guarded and respected, as their future is uncertain. So remember, when you spot our friend the honu swimming or basking on the beach, admire this gentle creature from afar.

IN KAUA‘I WATERS

t he honu h A ve been A round since the A ge of the dinos A urs .

t hey A re the true A ncients of h A w A i ’ i . t hey A re to be gu A rded A nd respected .

g reen se A turtles c A n be seen b A sking in the sun

A t low tide . t hey do this to esc A pe pred A tion from tiger sh A rks A nd perh A ps to r A ise their body temper A ture . t hey feed on m A rine A lg A e A nd se A gr A sses in sh A llow w A ters .

t A king

flight

over the nāpali

t he se A birds of h A w A i ’ i h A ve A lw A ys been cultur A lly signific A nt to the n A tive h A w A ii A ns , A s they were depended on for n A vig A tion , fishing , A nd fe A therwork .

t he r ed - f ooted b ooby , or ‘ ā , is frequently seen on the n ā p A li c o A st . i t ’ s best recognized by its red feet A nd distinctive , pink b A se on A blue be A k .

t A king over the nāpali

flight

t he b l A ck - footed A lb A tross will l A y A single egg during the breeding se A son . t hey A re listed A s thre A tened in the s t A te of h A w A i ’ i .

Seabirds have always been a culturally significant part of the Hawaiian heritage, as they were depended on for navigation, fishing, and featherwork by the native Hawaiians. Luckily, Kaua’i is a breeding habitat for several species of seabirds which benefit from the abundance of food found in our productive, rich waters. With its overhanging cliffs and caves, the Nā Pali Coast, and surrounding Pacific Ocean represent a perfect environment for seabirds to thrive in. By traveling along the Nā Pali Coast, we are able to get a glimpse into the peaceful lives of these free flyers.

t he l A rgest of the se A birds on k A u A ’ , but sm A llest in its f A mily , is the b l A ckfooted A lb A tross , or k A ’ upu . i t bo A sts A wingsp A n of 6 to 8 feet .

i t is s A id th A t when n oddy t erns fly tow A rds the shore , A storm is imminent

t A king flight over the

Dolphin watching from a Zodiac raft